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Reload Thread: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Quote Originally Posted by bbeljefe View Post
    If you mean these little beasts, that will be an almost 12' line and it'll be just a little bit more line area than the one above. Those would probably do a lot better on the lows than the one above also.

    Give me dimensions of where it's going and tell me how you want it finished and I'll get you a price.
    Will do! Give me until tomorrow I haven't got a tape here.



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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    And here's the next t-line driver... it will be a sub for my computer, as now I've got some bulky bookshelf speakers and I want to do a couple of PVC lines with some 3" drivers and have an under the desk sub.

    Beefy little sister to the ten above. I've used this speaker in a couple of other systems I built. One was just sealed in a truck and the other, a 6th order trunk box in a Camry. It sounds awesome for an 8.









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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    This may be a dumb question but can you design one as an 1/8 wave to cut the length down some but still get good results ? I can fit a 1/4 wave one for a ten and maybe a 12 but the 15" ones are out of reach I think unless I can cut the length down some . Very intrigued by the quarter wave though. . It may very well be the next enclosure I build.




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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    good stuff!!




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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Quote Originally Posted by Spooney View Post
    This may be a dumb question but can you design one as an 1/8 wave to cut the length down some but still get good results ? I can fit a 1/4 wave one for a ten and maybe a 12 but the 15" ones are out of reach I think unless I can cut the length down some . Very intrigued by the quarter wave though. . It may very well be the next enclosure I build.
    I apologize for the late response, I didn't see your post. But no, 8th waves don't work. You can tune the line higher than the driver's Fs but it has to be a quarter wave to sound any good.



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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Update... haven't built the line for the baby Jibble but I do have some pics of the SA-15 line finished but not put together. I'll get pics and video of the finished product tomorrow.







    That sumbish is a beast to move by yourself.... in fact, even though I put blankets on the ground and used a hand truck with a blanket on it, I managed to chip the paint on the port side when I put it in.... made me sick.



    Owner, Audio Anarchy, LLC
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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Do you know about any differences in sound when it comes to designing around a 1/2 or whole wave? Obviously it would be improbable in a vehicle, but for a theatre setup now...if there would be any point. Envisioning such a thing makes me think back to those entire room horn designs I used to read about in the '90s.

    EDIT: BTW, nice box. Makes me wish I would've kept the SUV since I didn't even really know about T-lines until recently. I can't believe you're planning to build one designed around two X 15's! That's gonna be NASTY!




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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Real interested in your findings as well. Your boxes look amazing btw.

    I have one question: would putting a pair of subs in a T-line or tapped horn work? My gut feeling is no because of cancellation and wave interference and a whole lot of theoretical things, but not sure if it's ever been tried.



    Quote Originally Posted by ducatipaso View Post
    15inch subs can't play fast beats, they take more power and that taxes the vehicles electrical system. You will wake up and "hear" then see the light at the end of the tunnel and it will be 3 10's pounding so hard you wont even open your trunk or turn your system on because you 15's will sound sloppy & weak.
    Quote Originally Posted by benbenondatrack View Post
    stfu lesbo.why are you worried about me so much? you must want to date me ya little cookie monster but i dont even like sweets. your just a cup full of ice, dirt dead nasty azz ice...without the water.

    Dat Build Log: http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/showthread.php?2566-1999-Chevrolet-Blazer&highlight=1999+blazer

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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Quote Originally Posted by Milk Mayne View Post
    Do you know about any differences in sound when it comes to designing around a 1/2 or whole wave? Obviously it would be improbable in a vehicle, but for a theatre setup now...if there would be any point. Envisioning such a thing makes me think back to those entire room horn designs I used to read about in the '90s.

    EDIT: BTW, nice box. Makes me wish I would've kept the SUV since I didn't even really know about T-lines until recently. I can't believe you're planning to build one designed around two X 15's! That's gonna be NASTY!
    Honestly, I've never heard of a half wave box either. Of course, the whole wave horns have been around forever and horns in general have been used in a number of configurations but to maintain my integrity, I'm gonna have to admit that I'm not very well versed in anything other than quarter waves where horns/transmission lines are concerned. And even then, I'm a newbie.

    And thanks for the kind words. I'm excited as hell about the new build, especially since it isn't gonna be X15s. I snagged a pair of Zv3 15s from chvse_esvhc here and now they're sitting in my shop just calling on me to put them in a t-line on about 6KW.

    It's gonna be a fun build.



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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Quote Originally Posted by gckless View Post
    Real interested in your findings as well. Your boxes look amazing btw.

    I have one question: would putting a pair of subs in a T-line or tapped horn work? My gut feeling is no because of cancellation and wave interference and a whole lot of theoretical things, but not sure if it's ever been tried.
    I've seen a number of t-lines with multiple drivers and the final (yeah, right) build in my truck will be two Sundown Zv3 15s in a t-line. Also, there are a lot of tapped horns with multiple drivers. Check out the Matterhorn subwoofer on youtube. It's a tapped horn with (I think) 40 15s and it's built inside a shipping container.



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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Quote Originally Posted by bbeljefe View Post
    I've seen a number of t-lines with multiple drivers and the final (yeah, right) build in my truck will be two Sundown Zv3 15s in a t-line. Also, there are a lot of tapped horns with multiple drivers. Check out the Matterhorn subwoofer on youtube. It's a tapped horn with (I think) 40 15s and it's built inside a shipping container.
    So apparently the military is trying to rearrange people's intestines at 200ft lol.

    But what needs to be added, if anything, to box dimensions for another driver? Would you just increase the port area for the added Sd of the additional woofer(s)? I'm assuming length would still be the same, since that's not based off of the driver specifically.



    Quote Originally Posted by ducatipaso View Post
    15inch subs can't play fast beats, they take more power and that taxes the vehicles electrical system. You will wake up and "hear" then see the light at the end of the tunnel and it will be 3 10's pounding so hard you wont even open your trunk or turn your system on because you 15's will sound sloppy & weak.
    Quote Originally Posted by benbenondatrack View Post
    stfu lesbo.why are you worried about me so much? you must want to date me ya little cookie monster but i dont even like sweets. your just a cup full of ice, dirt dead nasty azz ice...without the water.

    Dat Build Log: http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/showthread.php?2566-1999-Chevrolet-Blazer&highlight=1999+blazer

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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Quote Originally Posted by gckless View Post
    So apparently the military is trying to rearrange people's intestines at 200ft lol.

    But what needs to be added, if anything, to box dimensions for another driver? Would you just increase the port area for the added Sd of the additional woofer(s)? I'm assuming length would still be the same, since that's not based off of the driver specifically.
    Right and wrong.... Yes, you double the line area (port size) but no... the box is indeed based off the drivers specifically. Even if not tuned to Fs, it is still based on the Sd of the system. Adding a driver adds to total Sd but doesn't change Fs or Fb, so length doesn't change but area does... based on the driver(s).

    And yeah, the military has now decided to use audio to hurt people. But with any luck the thing won't perform like they think it will and will be put to more benevolent uses.



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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Okay... finally got around to getting some video of the big line in action. Keep in mind that this thing is running off a Hifonics Hfi-1500, which is rumored to be a sorely underperforming amplifier. It's a dual 2Ω driver wired to 1Ω.

    http://youtu.be/txrpRmIdOmY

    http://youtu.be/5UqVS53h1_I

    http://youtu.be/CmUhu6-RByE

    http://youtu.be/VEW27n3bBu8

    Well... WTAF? Anybody have an idea why the videos don't play in the thread?



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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    Quote Originally Posted by bbeljefe View Post
    Update... haven't built the line for the baby Jibble but I do have some pics of the SA-15 line finished but not put together. I'll get pics and video of the finished product tomorrow.







    That sumbish is a beast to move by yourself.... in fact, even though I put blankets on the ground and used a hand truck with a blanket on it, I managed to chip the paint on the port side when I put it in.... made me sick.
    box looks gorgeous man..





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    Quote Originally Posted by Altec View Post
    Then obviously I am asking the wrong person, because you don't know how to hook up subs if they sounded like "****". Maybe learn your ohms and your diagrams before you call something ****. Learn to make boxes to specs and use the right wires and its called dynomat. Then maybe your car wouldn't of sounded like ****, yeah?

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    Re: JBL GTO 10 in ¼ Wave T-Line

    I'm posting this response to Nutdawg 651 so as to avoid derailing another user's thread... a few more videos of the t-line to follow.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nutdawg651 View Post
    Of course theyve got 4-5 alts and most dont have 30 , of course you use more batts as I said before when the alt cant handle a load it suckks from the batts , u wonder why they have all those alts because they run so manys amperes from their amplifiers where are you gonna get the power from not the batts I wanna witnes you personally use just a stock alt and 2 batts daily and while you
    do it run a few amps on it and lets see how long before your voltage dont go back up after a few weeks 2 months tops maybe 3 , then your alt gives and everything runs off your batts because your alt is puttin out low voltage and cant chrge nothin no more I wanna see a video of it cuz ima laugh and say see

    You clearly did not understand what I wrote. Please read it again. I never asserted that anyone is running 30 alternators. And I don't wonder anything, I understand quite well how electricity works.

    As for running dual batteries on a factory alternator, I've been doing it for about 7 years. I have a factory 136A Bosch alternator and two group 27, 110AH deep cycle marine wet cells (which is all we could run before AGMs) under the hood in a diesel configuration. Oh and, that alternator has been on the truck since the day it was built.

    I'm also running three amplifiers on that system. A 75X4 on tweets and rear fill... a 300X2 on my doors and a 1600 watt BXi, wired at 0.5Ω on the sub. I don't have battery or alternator problems, I don' thave headlight dimming and, I don't have troublesome voltage drop. So ignoring the real output of the monoblock and just assuming its 2Ω rating, that's 2500 watts.

    That said, I won't go any larger without an HO alternator but there are thousands of similar setups all over the place doing just fine on ~2.5Kw.

    Pics:


    ↑ As explained, two marine batteries on the factory alternator. It's been like that for years but was originally done in 2 gauge, with different batteries.




    ↑ Amps are Hifonics BXi-1600 wired at 0.5Ω, Renegade REN-1100 @ 4Ωx4 and a Diamond Audio D5 600.4 bridged to 2 channels at 4Ω. In the past, I had an Earthquake PH D2 along with a 400TX for the mids and over the years there have been any number of different amps in this truck... all on the stock alternator. And I bought this truck new... 15 years ago.

    Video of voltage drop:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euqF4M5KIzE

    ↑ In that video, I'm sitting at idle, with the air on playing Gorilla Zoe - Juice Box. The lows in that song tax an electrical system and, I've got the sub and head unit turned all the way up. I was at 13.3 volts when it started and the lowest voltage seen there was 12.3. So a total voltage drop of one volt at 700RPM on a factory alternator with the PCM controlling voltage. If I had an external regulator on the truck, the voltage drop would have been negligible and my voltage would have been ~14.5. How do I know this? Because I ran an external regulator for about five years but I got tired of it burning up batteries.

    Lastly... I'm not trying to bust your balls. But you're handing out advice to people that isn't, in my opinion at least, well thought out or backed with any empirical evidence. If I'm wrong about that, then show me. And don't reference Perry Babin's website.. show me what you've done and explain to me in detail why I am incorrect. I promise you, the last thing I want is to be wrong. Instead, you're telling a first time car audio enthusiast not to buy a second battery when in reality, that is absolutely one of the first and best steps to take when building a moderately powered system. Not to mention, you're advising him to drop $400.00-600.00 on a new alternator that he may never need.
    Last edited by bbeljefe; 09-12-2013 at 07:36 PM.



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