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Reload Thread: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Quote Originally Posted by 8thGenSI View Post
    Wish I could, gotta work. Farmers do not know the meaning of "holiday."
    i hear ya.didnt get the truck back today either ,something else going on with the transmission ,a solenoid i think .the torque converter clutch lock up isn't working .




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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Quote Originally Posted by mylows10 View Post
    wait till we build this compression ported box i designed ,should get really low with very little power
    really? i may be interested in a similar design then im only gonna run two e10s to help promote an affordable system for my buddies new sound shop, but im trying to stay away for the large 4th order bandpass boxes and achieve good output and still get low



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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Quote Originally Posted by winkychevelle View Post
    really? i may be interested in a similar design then im only gonna run two e10s to help promote an affordable system for my buddies new sound shop, but im trying to stay away for the large 4th order bandpass boxes and achieve good output and still get low
    Im excited to see how the box turns out, I have some ideas but we will waith for the pics.




  4. #19
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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Shoot me a pm ill explain how to bypass eld.



    Bought From:Queball,Dumped,ampjunkielikeme,ridnclean
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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    eld bypass is simple. looking good man. you will love that sub.




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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Open the hood. 2. Completely remove the factory air filter and airbox assembly from the vehicle (I'm sure there is a DIY for thatsomewhere on here, so I won't bother with instructions on howtodo so). 3. Locate the underhood fuse box and engine ECM (located behind the battery towards the firewall) 4. Remove the platic cover thatcovers the ECM. To do so, squeeze the center and pull upwards with a fair amount of force (the cover will pop off and slide upwards, revealing the ECM). 5. Unclip and remove the top plastic cover from the underhood fuse box (this is easily done by hand) 6. With the top cover off, you will notice thatthere are three snap clips that hold the main plastic section of the underhood fuse box tothe vehicle. Depress the three snap clips and pull the entire fusebox assembly upwards (you may need tofree one or twoofthe clips ata time, and then do the third one separately) 7. As you pull the fusebox assembly upwards, you will feel resistance and see a piece of wire loom tubing running out of the bottomofit(towards the ground). Follow this tubing with your hand (it is a tight squeeze) until you feel where it is clipped into the "framerail" of the vehicle with a pastic pop clip. Forcefully pull upwards on the wire in that area to pop the plastic clip free. 8. With the plastic clip free, you will now have enough slack to pull the fusebox upwards enough so thatyoucanturn itsideways. 9. With the fusebox sideways, look at where the wire loom comes out from the bottom. There may be a zip tie or tape holding the wire loom to the fuse box plastic. If so, you need to remove these items before going any further. Just cut the zip tie or peeloffthe tape as needed. 10. Once the zip tie/tape are gone, look once again at the main plastic section of the fusebox. You will see a small ridge in the lower portion. This ridge is where the bottom plastic cover snaps into the main part of the fusebox. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the lower plastic cover off, and slide it down the wire loom to get it out of the way. 11. Now, look at the wires that are underneath the bottom cover that you just removed. You will see a bunch of wires and a couple of different plugs. The plug for the ELD is roughly in the center of the box, and has three wires coming out of it- A Yellowwith Silver Hatches, A Solid Black, and An Orange with Silver Hatches.

    The wires function as follows: Yellow Wire W/Silver Hatches &ndash; 12V power feed (From Ignition)<br /> Black Wire W/ Silver Hatches &ndash; Ground<br /> Orange Wire W Silver Hatches &ndash; 5V sensory feed (OuttoECM) 12. You now have a couple options: Option A - You can simply unhook the plug for the ELD from the fusebox, push it up out of the way, and re-install the cover. This will bypass the ELD completely and cause the alternatorto operate the way it did in most older domestic vehicles. Option B - You can cut, extend, and wire a switch into the sensory feed wire (the Orange Wire W/Silver Hatches), so thatwhen the switch is closed, the ELDfunctions the way Honda designed it to, and when the switch is open, the ELD is bypassed. Option C - You can do the same process as Option B (cut & extend the wire), except instead of a switch, you can use a relay wiredinto the head unit's remote circuit toturn the ELDon/off automatically whenever you turn the radio on/off. 13. Once you have performed one of the above options, you are ready to put it all back together. Re-asassembly: 14. Slide the lower plastic fusebox cover back over the wire loom, and snap it back into place on main plastic body of the fuse box (covering the bottom wiring). 15. Snap the main body of the fusebox back into place on the vehicle. 16. Locate the plastic clip that snapped intothe "framerail" on the main wire loom, and snap it back into the hole thatitcame outof. 17. Replace the top cover of the fusebox. 18. Slide and snap the plactic cover for the ECM back into place. 19. Re-install you airbox and filter (Again, I'm sure there is a DIY on airbox removal on here somewhere). 20. Close the hood. 21. Enjoy your improved voltage.

    ---------- Post added at 03:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

    **** that's big sorry lol



    Bought From:Queball,Dumped,ampjunkielikeme,ridnclean
    Sold To

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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Quote Originally Posted by mylows10 View Post
    wait till we build this compression ported box i designed ,should get really low with very little power
    hows the 8 design going? i may have some free time before finals.




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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Quote Originally Posted by jdmferio13 View Post
    Open the hood. 2. Completely remove the factory air filter and airbox assembly from the vehicle (I'm sure there is a DIY for thatsomewhere on here, so I won't bother with instructions on howtodo so). 3. Locate the underhood fuse box and engine ECM (located behind the battery towards the firewall) 4. Remove the platic cover thatcovers the ECM. To do so, squeeze the center and pull upwards with a fair amount of force (the cover will pop off and slide upwards, revealing the ECM). 5. Unclip and remove the top plastic cover from the underhood fuse box (this is easily done by hand) 6. With the top cover off, you will notice thatthere are three snap clips that hold the main plastic section of the underhood fuse box tothe vehicle. Depress the three snap clips and pull the entire fusebox assembly upwards (you may need tofree one or twoofthe clips ata time, and then do the third one separately) 7. As you pull the fusebox assembly upwards, you will feel resistance and see a piece of wire loom tubing running out of the bottomofit(towards the ground). Follow this tubing with your hand (it is a tight squeeze) until you feel where it is clipped into the "framerail" of the vehicle with a pastic pop clip. Forcefully pull upwards on the wire in that area to pop the plastic clip free. 8. With the plastic clip free, you will now have enough slack to pull the fusebox upwards enough so thatyoucanturn itsideways. 9. With the fusebox sideways, look at where the wire loom comes out from the bottom. There may be a zip tie or tape holding the wire loom to the fuse box plastic. If so, you need to remove these items before going any further. Just cut the zip tie or peeloffthe tape as needed. 10. Once the zip tie/tape are gone, look once again at the main plastic section of the fusebox. You will see a small ridge in the lower portion. This ridge is where the bottom plastic cover snaps into the main part of the fusebox. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the lower plastic cover off, and slide it down the wire loom to get it out of the way. 11. Now, look at the wires that are underneath the bottom cover that you just removed. You will see a bunch of wires and a couple of different plugs. The plug for the ELD is roughly in the center of the box, and has three wires coming out of it- A Yellowwith Silver Hatches, A Solid Black, and An Orange with Silver Hatches.

    The wires function as follows: Yellow Wire W/Silver Hatches &ndash; 12V power feed (From Ignition)<br /> Black Wire W/ Silver Hatches &ndash; Ground<br /> Orange Wire W Silver Hatches &ndash; 5V sensory feed (OuttoECM) 12. You now have a couple options: Option A - You can simply unhook the plug for the ELD from the fusebox, push it up out of the way, and re-install the cover. This will bypass the ELD completely and cause the alternatorto operate the way it did in most older domestic vehicles. Option B - You can cut, extend, and wire a switch into the sensory feed wire (the Orange Wire W/Silver Hatches), so thatwhen the switch is closed, the ELDfunctions the way Honda designed it to, and when the switch is open, the ELD is bypassed. Option C - You can do the same process as Option B (cut & extend the wire), except instead of a switch, you can use a relay wiredinto the head unit's remote circuit toturn the ELDon/off automatically whenever you turn the radio on/off. 13. Once you have performed one of the above options, you are ready to put it all back together. Re-asassembly: 14. Slide the lower plastic fusebox cover back over the wire loom, and snap it back into place on main plastic body of the fuse box (covering the bottom wiring). 15. Snap the main body of the fusebox back into place on the vehicle. 16. Locate the plastic clip that snapped intothe "framerail" on the main wire loom, and snap it back into the hole thatitcame outof. 17. Replace the top cover of the fusebox. 18. Slide and snap the plactic cover for the ECM back into place. 19. Re-install you airbox and filter (Again, I'm sure there is a DIY on airbox removal on here somewhere). 20. Close the hood. 21. Enjoy your improved voltage.

    ---------- Post added at 03:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

    **** that's big sorry lol
    reminds me of mobile enclosres.




  10. #24
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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Slow tony




    pioneer avhx 5500 dvd, gzpa 1.4000 x 2
    ab vfl 350.4 ,7 pc 2150 and a 150 ah power ware agm ,275 amp singer alt , 2nd one coming soon
    cdt 6.5 es 6 im mids,cdt es 010 tweets,es 02 mids ,mx1000 3 way x overs , sky high and stinger hpm o gauge wires ,also 2 tantric hdd 15's in a 9.5. ^3 ported no wall box 11.5 octo port.
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  11. #25
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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Nice tool collection and equipment, **** vehicle to use it on



    Im better than you.

  12. #26
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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Quote Originally Posted by jdmferio13 View Post
    Open the hood. 2. Completely remove the factory air filter and airbox assembly from the vehicle (I'm sure there is a DIY for thatsomewhere on here, so I won't bother with instructions on howtodo so). 3. Locate the underhood fuse box and engine ECM (located behind the battery towards the firewall) 4. Remove the platic cover thatcovers the ECM. To do so, squeeze the center and pull upwards with a fair amount of force (the cover will pop off and slide upwards, revealing the ECM). 5. Unclip and remove the top plastic cover from the underhood fuse box (this is easily done by hand) 6. With the top cover off, you will notice thatthere are three snap clips that hold the main plastic section of the underhood fuse box tothe vehicle. Depress the three snap clips and pull the entire fusebox assembly upwards (you may need tofree one or twoofthe clips ata time, and then do the third one separately) 7. As you pull the fusebox assembly upwards, you will feel resistance and see a piece of wire loom tubing running out of the bottomofit(towards the ground). Follow this tubing with your hand (it is a tight squeeze) until you feel where it is clipped into the "framerail" of the vehicle with a pastic pop clip. Forcefully pull upwards on the wire in that area to pop the plastic clip free. 8. With the plastic clip free, you will now have enough slack to pull the fusebox upwards enough so thatyoucanturn itsideways. 9. With the fusebox sideways, look at where the wire loom comes out from the bottom. There may be a zip tie or tape holding the wire loom to the fuse box plastic. If so, you need to remove these items before going any further. Just cut the zip tie or peeloffthe tape as needed. 10. Once the zip tie/tape are gone, look once again at the main plastic section of the fusebox. You will see a small ridge in the lower portion. This ridge is where the bottom plastic cover snaps into the main part of the fusebox. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the lower plastic cover off, and slide it down the wire loom to get it out of the way. 11. Now, look at the wires that are underneath the bottom cover that you just removed. You will see a bunch of wires and a couple of different plugs. The plug for the ELD is roughly in the center of the box, and has three wires coming out of it- A Yellowwith Silver Hatches, A Solid Black, and An Orange with Silver Hatches.

    The wires function as follows: Yellow Wire W/Silver Hatches &ndash; 12V power feed (From Ignition)<br /> Black Wire W/ Silver Hatches &ndash; Ground<br /> Orange Wire W Silver Hatches &ndash; 5V sensory feed (OuttoECM) 12. You now have a couple options: Option A - You can simply unhook the plug for the ELD from the fusebox, push it up out of the way, and re-install the cover. This will bypass the ELD completely and cause the alternatorto operate the way it did in most older domestic vehicles. Option B - You can cut, extend, and wire a switch into the sensory feed wire (the Orange Wire W/Silver Hatches), so thatwhen the switch is closed, the ELDfunctions the way Honda designed it to, and when the switch is open, the ELD is bypassed. Option C - You can do the same process as Option B (cut & extend the wire), except instead of a switch, you can use a relay wiredinto the head unit's remote circuit toturn the ELDon/off automatically whenever you turn the radio on/off. 13. Once you have performed one of the above options, you are ready to put it all back together. Re-asassembly: 14. Slide the lower plastic fusebox cover back over the wire loom, and snap it back into place on main plastic body of the fuse box (covering the bottom wiring). 15. Snap the main body of the fusebox back into place on the vehicle. 16. Locate the plastic clip that snapped intothe "framerail" on the main wire loom, and snap it back into the hole thatitcame outof. 17. Replace the top cover of the fusebox. 18. Slide and snap the plactic cover for the ECM back into place. 19. Re-install you airbox and filter (Again, I'm sure there is a DIY on airbox removal on here somewhere). 20. Close the hood. 21. Enjoy your improved voltage.

    ---------- Post added at 03:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

    **** that's big sorry lol
    I don't know if you just typed that all out or copied and pasted, either way, thank you. Really appriciate the info and will put it to use tonight when i get home.




  13. #27
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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    Does anyone know if I can run a power wire from the alternator directly to the battery prior to disabling the ELD system? I do not want to cook anything on the stock electrical. The stock alternator wire runs into the fuse box, don’t know where it goes once it enters the fuse box, might be just to a fuse or could be running into something tying into the ELD system. If anyone can offer some insight here I would appreciate it.




  14. #28
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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    This might be a little over detailed for such a small portion of the build log but if anyone does this to the same vehicle it might be useful.

    Went to finish up the power portion of the big 3 and ran into some issues. Basically, the positive terminal post on the stock alternator is in the most awkward spot, I finally got the lug and stock wire on the post and find out the hard way that it is too short to get the nut threaded. I couldn't pull the alternator because it has to be removed from the bottom of the car and my brother in law barrowed my floor jack, jack stands, and creeper.

    Take a look... This is the stud with nothing on it at all, tiny isnt it? Its almost as if Honda knew I was going to do this and tried to prevent it from happening.


    I tried trimming up the lug terminal a bit in hopes that I could get it to nestle in there a bit more (top is after modification, bottom is before).


    Modified lug soldered on wire and ready to attempt the mount.


    No luck… could not get threads to bite with stock wire and the wire I was adding. After a bunch of 4 letter words I came up with an idea, I would use a coupler nut and bolt to extend the stud.


    So I figured I would use the coupler nut to secure the stock wire then bolt my lug to the end of the coupler nut. Here is what it looks like with the coupler nut installed.


    I was worried about accidental arching because I will be extending the post so I got some of this.


    I taped off one end of the couple nut, then threaded a bolt into the other side to prevent the plastic dip from getting in the threads and preventing a solid connection. The bolt that was dipped will be the one used in the final install.


    Dipped the copper lug as well.


    Now just waiting for the plastic dip to dry, when that is done I will trim the plastic dip off of the areas I want to make connection and install everything using mini channel locks with tape around the jaws to prevent damage to the plastic dip. More pictures coming soon.




  15. #29
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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    ditching the ed nine.5 already, just picked up a nice saz1500d from robertoyoung08. Any suggestions on a 4 channel? I would like to avoid a huge footprint but would like some nice sq.




  16. #30
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    Re: Starting over in my 2011 civic SI

    call me mike we can work out a deal for the d9 and a new 4 channel




    pioneer avhx 5500 dvd, gzpa 1.4000 x 2
    ab vfl 350.4 ,7 pc 2150 and a 150 ah power ware agm ,275 amp singer alt , 2nd one coming soon
    cdt 6.5 es 6 im mids,cdt es 010 tweets,es 02 mids ,mx1000 3 way x overs , sky high and stinger hpm o gauge wires ,also 2 tantric hdd 15's in a 9.5. ^3 ported no wall box 11.5 octo port.
    NOR CAL DB DRAG JUDGE
    http://www.dcsoundlab.com

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