redone the battery (-) to ground with a new nut and bolt and flat ring terminals.
I came, I saw, and I conquered.
Just to give you an idea
I used a different ring terminal and cut the side instead to fit better
New nut and bolt after an hour of removing the stripped stock one. This made my hands bleed quite a lot.
By the way it is a thousand times easier to remove if you unhook everything and use a table vice to hold the square head. I had to take it to a local ACE cause I got rid of my old table vice thinking I'd never need it....
Everything fits real nicely now. Got the nut on there real tight with everything nice and flat. If your ring terminal doesn't fit, just trim it down with some sheer cutters.
Just got all the wiring laid down yesterday and reversed the stock amp. The LC2i is wired and the GTO is working. I ran a run for remote in anyways just in case. All the wire is ran along the factory wire with many zip ties. Everything has fit perfectly so far. I disconnected the sub the factory sub to hook everything correctly to the LC2i. Pretty sure I wont need to take the panels off again. Think the best way to mount the amp on the stock amp mount would be to used a block of wood like a baffle. I could cover it with stretchy black carpet I got laying around. Cant get that done till my SAX-1200D get here. The only wire missing is the amp ground for obvious reasons.
Silver/Black = RCA
Brown/Yellow = Factory sub (-)
White/Yellow = Factory sub (+)
Copper = LC2i Power (+/-)
Silver = Remote in
Blue = Remote out
Red = Amp power (+)
Also laid the speaker wire for the sub but forgot to take a good picture of it. Its larger silver/black knu 12ga.
(sorry for the bad pictures)
My SAX-1200D came in today! Was a little nervous at first cause ive never purchased referbed but pretty happy with what I got so far. There was only 2 small scratches that were easily hidden with a black sharpie. Going to be able to get 90% of the build complete now with the amp in. Either going to work on the mount tonight or this weekend. Take a look..
Test ran the 1/0ga to 4ga input adapters and they were a tad too big. Filed down the edges a tinny bit and fits nicely now. They are very secure when tightened so I dont think they will ever touch but do you think I should wrap them in electrical tape or let the chrome shine?
Just put a slab of copper between them to make sure they don't touch ;)
Everything looks like it's coming along nicely. I love the Knu RCA's. How much were those Stinger reducers though?
Ran into my first speed bump. Finally got everything to fit nicely but I have one issue. The amp sits low to the floor and leaves me with no room for the adapters and it would even be tough putting the power and negative 1/0 in directly with shaving. What do you think I should do? I can only get about another inch clearance for the bottom if I screw the amp more up and to the right of the rack. I cant use the power and ground at the top because the red power line is as long as it will go. I would have to run a new line if I wanted to do that, which I do have extra wire, it will just be black. Hmm... I got some thinking to do... any opinions?
And I'd wrap them in electrical safe to be safe, that's just me though. I like the idea of heat shrink as well.
And the only solution I have for your space concern, if you don't want to move your amp, is to have toolmaker make you custom inputs that have a 90 degree angle, so you're not limited on space any more. They wouldn't be cheap, his inputs usually cost like... $40 or $50 I think, but they are TOP-NOTCH, and gorgeous. HJere's a link to his stuff: Show off your "Toolmaker" goodies here - Car Audio Classifieds post #5 shows off his inputs. They are all made however you like, so you'd just have to tell him your requirements. And he's the link to everything else you'd need to know: (Tool Maker) - Car Audio Classifieds
So while I wait to hear from project db and toolmaker here is what I got so far. I had to get some larger screws for the factory amp to be more secure. I also drilled a hole in the amp bracing to get more strength on the left side. I also got some spacers I can use that are about 1/4in tall. I can put these under the sundown amp to get a tiny bit more room but not sure if I should yet. Only got an inch of room without them. Think im going to go with 90 degree reducers if they will fit the amp and are small enough.
I was thinking of using heat shrink around the stinger reduces to keep them safe. Think of it as a sleeve of electrical tape, that when you heat up, it shrinks tight around the object. But it sounds like you don't have enough room for those reducers, so if you hook it up, just strip the wire down real good to fit, then I'd use heat shrink around that to keep it clean and safe.
Good call on emailing both them guys, hopefully you can get something affordable soon! Then again, affordable and Audi don't really go hand in hand :P haha.
Just get a bunch of those spacers stacked up until you have enough clearance :P
Talked to project db and hes going to get working on the vertical reducers tomorrow :D. Here is a sketchup of what its going to look like.