Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
I decided on the spare tire well due to it's size and ease. also, it will keep the gear and wiring short and hidden.
i built the framework and amp rack out of 1/2" MDF. i used PL200 and construction grade screws (no drywall screws here) to secure the rack. I used T-nuts and bolts to secure the gear.
end result:
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809030.jpg
framework in place
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809022.jpg
framework underneath - yes i meant for the screw tips to stick out. the heads are countersunk.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809020.jpg
t-nuts and bolts for the H701
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809017.jpg
t-nuts in amp board
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809018.jpg
test fit process
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809004.jpg
have to carpet the work - i hate exposed wood.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809023.jpg
after you carpet, remember to expose your screw holes
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809025.jpg
next time, move the saw outside (even though it was 4am)
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809014.jpg
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
i also got my ground worked out. this took about 2-3 hours last night including two hours of brainstorming of how to make this work best. in the end it looks simple, but it's location is perfect to keep all amp grounds short and also let me bolt the ground safely. 1/0 ground to a distro block, 4awg ground to each amp.
as good as it gets - sanded and bolted
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809011.jpg
bolt head and washer - this will be coated over later
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809013.jpg
i didn't want four more holes in the trunk, so i used silicone to adhere the ground block. it isn't going anywhere.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809024.jpg
total assembly
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...unk0809010.jpg
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
Re-did my kicks and fixed my midrange mount. Andy pointed out that right angles aren't ideal for midrange speakers. he is totally right. so i remade my mounts
speaker gasketing foam on basket
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909018.jpg
t-nuts as usual. notice the cut out for the mounting tabs.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909019.jpg
one 3/4" layer and one 1/2" layer of MDF
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909020.jpg
made the opening on the base larger. it used to be a square. so it's not a perfect circle - neither is the opening in the metal. i prefer non-symmetry for speaker enclosures anyway.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909021.jpg
t-nuts on the base - the speaker baffle attaches to the base with 1/4-20 T-nuts and bolts. i will seal up the base to the car with a combination of silicone, foam, modeling clay, and deadener. then my baffle will be removable. that way i can easily swap out midrange drivers in the future.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909023.jpg
new result is free from unnecessary edges and angles
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909024.jpg
here is a selection of foams i use for gasketing.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909037.jpg
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909038.jpg
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909035.jpg
10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ick0909036.jpg
which one i use depends on the application some open cell compresses easily, some sponge-rubber does not, etc. i find it very handy and cheap for helping isolate speakers, baffles, etc. it's also very clean and not at all messy.
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
i mounted and sealed my kick panels. they are now part of the car :)
I love modeling clay. Thanks Team Sound Domain for your recommendations and build logs, i wouldn't have used it without them.
Screws hold the panels down, PL adhesive is used to secure the midbass baffle to the floor, and modeling clay ensures the midrange cavity is smooth and well sealed. I painted the baffles with several coats of primer and paint to help with water resistance. The bolts holding the removable midrange baffle utilize T-nuts in the vehicle baffle. I used the last of my deadener to cover the modeling clay and some select areas. everything is now sealed. I will need to get some Second Skin to cover the whole car eventually.
Passenger side
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed001.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed003.jpg
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed010.jpg
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed011.jpg
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed012.jpg
Driver's Side
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed005.jpg
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed006.jpg
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed014.jpg
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed015.jpg
i wanted to do this when i could let the car sit for more than a day, letting the adhesives cure.
next i need to figure out how i want to route the speaker wires. silly me, i could have just routed them BEFORE i sealed them up. now it will be a bit more involved.
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
more effort was prepping the speaker wires for the front speakers. i am using 4 conductor wiring for the mids and tweeters to neaten the wiring runs. but now they have to split up. so i used my drill to group and twist the wires. they will be put in split loom (as usual) and routed to their respective speakers. here are some close ups of the labeling and twisting. (note, they are labeled Right Mid and Left Mid, Right High, and Left High, you just can't see both lines at that angle).
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed022.jpg
[2IMG]http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed023.jpg[/IMG]
Also, I cut the factory sound absorption to fit around the new baffles. the factory stuff is an inch of foam and a thick layer of vinyl. too bad the whole car wasn't done with this! ignore the random split loom, little is connected or routed yet.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed025.jpg
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed027.jpg
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed028.jpg
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...9sealed029.jpg
i tried something new - pvc cup sized for the flush mounting tweeter cup. some clay to get the overall shape. i need to fiberglass pods this shape next. but for now i'll just test with these (and cover with carpet). the clay won't stay and i'll probably remake these in every aspect. for now they are representative of my overall goals.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled001.jpg
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled002.jpg
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
next i made a custom grille for the OZ midbass. i don't like the metal waffle grills, and they are ugly as hell, but in this case i needed something temporary but strong. i used a spare speaker grille laying around for the 4", again, something to protect it. i need to fabricate a complete kick panel cover, that includes the kick door trim.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled008.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled009.jpg
then i covered it with speaker grille cloth. right not it's not secured to anything. ideally, this cloth would be integrated into the carpet, or i'll replace the carpet and hide the speaker grille completely.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled007.jpg
finally, a hole cut in the carpet was coordinated with the grille. it's a tight fit, which helps. not the most cosmetic solution, but it is functional for testing.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled005.jpg
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled006.jpg
my rubber floor mats just fit. a trim may be required though.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled011.jpg
Driver's side - same thing.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled013.jpg
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled015.jpg
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled016.jpg
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
Next, i worked on the amps. they are properly wired to the speakers, and to the processor. note how my power supplies are all aligned, power comes from driver's side, 1/0 into Maxi fused distribution block, 4awg to amps, 10awg to processor/relays.
the speaker wires are all aligned in the middle, routed in the middle. all signal cables on passenger side, routed at the rear of the vehicle. i know that it's not much of a concern to cross paths, but i don't anyway.
the RCA's are temporary Monster cable. I have Y-adapters at the amps since everything is bridged mono.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled017.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled018.jpg
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled019.jpg
i need to clean the covers
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled037.jpg
I installed the CDA-7930 again, it's simple and clean. i have a CDA-7949 sitting on my desk and in need of a new optical pick-up.
i redid my previous wiring config for the head unit, 10awg to the battery, ignition wire controlling a relay coil. pretty straight forward.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled027.jpg
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled029.jpg
head unit ground - 10awg
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled025.jpg
RUX-C701 controller still mounted in the overhead location
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled033.jpg
a shot of all the front speakers.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled034.jpg
10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...stalled035.jpg
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
Got the kicks cleaned up. Modified the factory kick panel cover. The future for these speakers is a fiberglass grille, i'll use the factory cover as a mold. For now, it's better than it was - even with a black marker outline. :O New carpet is totally flush with factory (and is open weave - acoustically "transparent") BTW the factory carpet was stained when I got it.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...10kicks002.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...10kicks003.jpg
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...10kicks005.jpg
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...10kicks008.jpg
Temporary bass provided by JL12W3D4 running sealed with the same baffle as before.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...10kicks001.jpg
Not sure if I shared the 1/0 wiring upgrade, and battery wiring. It's a bit cleaner now. Fuse holder is bolted to the metal battery mount.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...10kicks013.jpg
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...10kicks015.jpg
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
Did some cleaning up. I installed the Oz Audio grills, and adjusted the polyfill inside the cavity. I'm still getting a resonance at 140Hz that I can tame with the EQ, but it's a noticeable loss in midbass at that band. I have some ideas for ways to eliminate it. For now, it's still imaging great and sounds very good.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Apillar001.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Apillar003.jpg
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Apillar006.jpg
Next, I experimented with covering the Apillar with fabric - this is a fleece type material. I chose black so that they would be less noticeable from outside - blends with the tinting and tweeter. not sure i'm a huge fan of the color since nothing else is black. i'll experiment more with other fabric colors, grill cloths, etc. for now, it's certainly better than it was.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Apillar008.jpg
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Apillar012.jpg
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Apillar014.jpg
turns out that some time ago the driver's side sunroof drain hose came loose, and was aimed at the midrange baffle. it also turns out that coats of spray paint are NOT sufficient for water resistance.
The result:
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...may2010015.jpg
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...may2010018.jpg
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
So I replaced the drain hose in the proper location, made a new midrange mount, dried the carpet, and laid down some BXT II on the baffles. I also added 1.5lbs of non-hardening modeling clay inside the midbass cavity - in the nooks and crannies, along the baffle inside seams, etc. I also put in a ribbed rubber mat to mimic a deflex pad.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...eadenedfar.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ickozclose.jpg
Then I did the passenger side as well, new deadening, another 1.5lbs of modeling clay, rubber mat, etc.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...denedclose.jpg
new baffle is same as previous. i designed these baffles to be removable and swappable - good thing. :)
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ickozclose.jpg
Next plan is to add mass to the front floorboards. After some correspondence with Scott B., i have some ideas to eliminate any modes that may be excited by the midbass.
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
trunk baffle install
the universal, bolt-on TB wall. I used two sandwiched layers of 3/4" MDF, with 1/4-20 T-nuts. I was thinking about one solid, layer, but in order to be tight against the metal it needed to be in pieces.
Here are some build pics. sides are unique, i used a paddle bit to recess the t-nut
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IB0610001.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IB0610003.jpg
wood glue and clamp overnight
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IB0610005.jpg
test fit for the next step
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IB0610007.jpg
tops and bottoms of similar construction
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IB0610010.jpg
fit is so tight, it was able to remain held up with friction (very handy for testing)
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall005.jpg
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall002.jpg
i used a board to verify the alignment
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall009.jpg
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall008.jpg
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
wood glue on the seams and silicone (a lot of silicone) in the middle and along each side where it meets the car. silicone was chosen so the frame has just a bit of play relative to the vehicle.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall011.jpg
tight fit, hand sanded to match all undulations
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall012.jpg
I re-routed my power and control wires to go under the IB board. The speaker wires already are on the passenger side, so I needed to accommodate them anyway. having them go through above the wheel wells made for an awkward routing, that was just in the way. I also cut off 4 feet in length.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall018.jpg
the power wires were secured and cleaned up later.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall022.jpg
passenger side speaker wires low (signal high)
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall016.jpg
I made the bottom in two pieces, supported it, they will be removable, but sealed.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall026.jpg
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall025.jpg
as-is, the floor will be in two parts. That may change soon also, but I do like having the second piece something I can secure and seal the wire penetrations.
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._IBwall024.jpg
not near done yet though, I think that MDF is in need of some resin...
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
my first ever attempt at fiberglass was so-so. i'll only get better with time. for now, i have a lot of cleaning up to do - i need a fairly flat face for the IB wall to seal to.
i mixed 4oz, then 4oz more, then 8oz of resin. I was trying to get a feel for how much i was going to use. separate batches gave me enough time to use it all without being in too much of a hurry.
i focused on the lower seams as i see that as the weakest part. but i also did every seam. the lower seams ended up with 4 layers, the other seams had 3. should be sufficient considering it's just supporting a 3/4" IB wall with <500W RMS.
these pics were 1/2 way through. i'll take more after i clean it up a bit. sanding and trimming this in the car is gonna be a messy PITA. thank god for the shop vac.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...wall_fg010.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...wall_fg009.jpg
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...wall_fg011.jpg
i ended up using about 4x the amount of fiberglass pieces that are shown here.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...wall_fg001.jpg
day two of the IB wall fiberglassing
i learned it's a good idea to pre-fit the pieces
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ll_fg001-1.jpg
i also used these pieces and had cardboard down that i could just pitch after
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ll_fg002-1.jpg
the front bottom was glassed to the vehicle also. i noticed the bottom rung of the opening had some movement to it. this will hold it firm, and also seals it against the vehicle and opening.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...wall_fg003.jpg
because the fuel pump is under this, i marked it's location. if need be, i'll have to cut out the middle section, then piece in some bracing later. i already have the replacement planned out
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...wall_fg004.jpg
a pair of box fans have been helping the smell inside the car.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ll_fg006-1.jpg
Re: 2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long
after a few hours of drying. the flex in the bottom of the opening is completely gone (obviously) even though the fiberglass against the car isn't intended to be structural. my goal to create a good seal is looking like a success.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ll_fg005-1.jpg
it looks and feels like a nice seal. you can see my markings for what's below - including my "future saw cut for fuel pump access". i have 1" MDF siliconed to the car floor beneath the rectangles - for support. i can screw into those if necessary.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ll_fg008-1.jpg
i started some fill and sanding on the trunk side. this is time consuming working inside the trunk and trying to keep everything clean. i masked off and had to completely vacuum and clean since i'm driving this to work tomorrow. i'm focusing on the trunk side because i want to make a baffle and get a sub playing before i finish the cabin side. i'm concerned about how much the front board has coupled the frame to the car. while sanding i noticed that the middle of the opening excited the floor of the vehicle quite well. that was the only spot that did that, and since it's right over the fuel pump, my only option is to better secure the bottom to the vehicle, on either side of the fuel pump. so i'm curious if that resonant frequency is above or below my intended sub crossover point. so i'm going to make a smooth surface on the trunk side so the sub wall will make a nice seal.
the first couple of layers are down, and have been filed and lightly sanded to reveal places that need more fill. i'll paint it black to identify low spots once the majority of it is nicely covered.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ll_fg001-2.jpg
this is the fill piece i'm test fitting. it will screw down to the mounting boards you see in the above pic, and it slides under the frame by about 3/4". i've also thought about not carpeting this now and glassing it to the frame and vehicle as well. we'll see...
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...wall_fg007.jpg
... and yes, i did keep track of my mounting holes, i'll need to drill them back out, for now they are just smaller. finally reaching some substantial completion.
I did a few more layers of body filler on the trunk side of the baffle - on the top, more on the sides, etc. i sanded the hell out of it to get it mostly smooth - then i decided to just deaden the fawking thing anyway - so little imperfections were pointless to fix. i'll use trusty closed cell foam sandwiched between teh baffle and the frame to create my air-tight seal.
Raammat BXT II on the baffle:
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...dIBwall022.jpg
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...dIBwall038.jpg
carpet on the baffle and surrounding area
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...dIBwall042.jpg
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...dIBwall043.jpg
carpet on the factory supports (they will remain for additional strength
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...dIBwall046.jpg
10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...dIBwall045.jpg
