martian's 2001 buick build log

[martiandancer31]

for the ports you can just get some 22 degree angled pipe fittings...

---------- Post added at 11:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:16 PM ----------

or 45 which ever works best lol

actually an interesting idea. I might look into this. Hopefully working on port fitting tomorrow.

Good stuff. Will the fiberglass by itself be durable or pressed up against the trunk enough to not resonate, or will you further brace the entire enclosure? I have never really worked with glass so I am unfamiliar with how rigid it gets and how you could got about bracing it, threaded rods and bolts maybe? Eleven cubes also seems large to have a major portion of the enclosure made out of glass.

it's certainly a major portion - i've used about 8 gallons of glass It does get fairly stiff and it requries less thickness and weight to be the same stiffness as MDF. It's not great in large flat areas but it's very stiff in curves. However, i'm also going to brace the snot of out everything with dowels and such. Pictures of this to come later on this week. Also, if I remember, i'll try to take a picture of a cross section of my mold for you so you can see how this it is.

oh, and everything is pressed up against the trunk walls as well. How much this will help, i have no idea.

[martiandancer31]

lil more progress, i ALMOST have a box (minus the back and spare tire well cover) - ie, it's almost sealed up. Did this today:





i know it's messy and all that but it's sealed up for sure



this is the last part i need to seal, was hoping to do it with just glass but the gap is way too big so i'm gonna cut up a piece of mdf for it and PL the crap out of it like everywhere else



sealing the bottom to the wall with PL - some of this will be glassed over but not until I make the ports fit



this is one of the top corners, some glass here and some wood.

basically, this is what I have left to do:

-seal off the back part by the spare tire well
-make the ports fit
-mount the drivers (i need the port holes open to do this)
-mount and seal the ports
-brace the crap out of everything
-put the back and spare tire well cover on

then BAM i have a box, and just need to start wiring everything up and mounting amps and such. I have some, err, interesting ideas about how to ground to the frame, as it's not quite thick enough to tap. At least i doubt it.

I also hope to carpet everything back there and maybe cut up some vanity panels if timing/funds permit. I do want most of the stuff in the back to be visible, so that people can see what's going on back there.

Lastly, i need to make some tweeter pods for the components up front, and get those all mounted and wired up. Need to run some 12 gauge OFC through the wet boot. I may have inadvertently cut off access to the passenger side wet boot with MLV, we shall see.

wish me luck, ima be a busy dude

[martiandancer31]

and.....last gap sealed!! I now have a box, minus the top of the spare tire well and the back!!! W00t!!!

[itsblown]

Just went through this hole thread from start to here and its by far one of the best and most thorough Ive seen on here really excited to see how it all turns out

[martiandancer31]

Just went through this hole thread from start to here and its by far one of the best and most thorough Ive seen on here really excited to see how it all turns out

thanks, me too! I should have something up and running within a week or so, at least i really hope.

[martiandancer31]

for the ports you can just get some 22 degree angled pipe fittings...

---------- post added at 11:17 pm ---------- previous post was at 11:16 pm ----------

or 45 which ever works best lol

dude!!!! Youre a freaking genious ahhhh

[martiandancer31]

good progress!! W00t. In reality, i had to mount the drivers before I attached the ports, because I needed to reach through the top port hole in order to mount the drivers.



i don't even wanna talk about how difficult it was to squeeze these ports in, lol. As it stands i'm probably going to need to remove a portion of the roundover from the bottom port, because it interferes with the motor on that driver. What i ended up doing to get these in is using a 45 degree bend for the bottom port and a 22.5 degree bend for the top.

[martiandancer31]

the next step will be figuring out all the electrical nonsense:


also, i started deadening the area back there. Seems to me that a lot of noise comes through there so hopefully i do a good enough job with this.


on the docket for tomorrow is: bracing, sizing up and gluing the ports in, wiring up the drivers, cutting wholes for the wiring cups, rounding over the spare tire well cover, and then finally, finally sealing up the box!! W00t!! Wow, that sounds like a lot, i hope i have time for all that. Yikes! If i don't get the back panels and spire tire well cover on tomorrow, that's fine by me i guess..

America!!

[JerryEllis]

dude!!!! Youre a freaking genious ahhhh

haha thanks bro!
i worked in a hardware store for about 2 years and that just popped up in my head lol

[martiandancer31]

haha thanks bro!
i worked in a hardware store for about 2 years and that just popped up in my head lol

those bends made the whole port system work, i had to modify some stuff back there to make everything fit but it wouldn't have happened without those. They were actually pretty cheap too, and the sewer and drain spec elbows actually fit the port piping, so it's all good.

[martiandancer31]

i'm way too tired to post a full update tonite, but here's a teaser:



oh, and:



better update tomorrow, i promise!!

[audiobaun]

Man, thats really looking fantastic.I enjoy checking out the build,as it gives ides,and ,and intuitive aspects to the nature of the build.Looking good ,man,looking good

[martiandancer31]

Man, thats really looking fantastic.I enjoy checking out the build,as it gives ides,and ,and intuitive aspects to the nature of the build.Looking good ,man,looking good

thanks man, much appreciated!

[martiandancer31]

alrighty, on to a better update.

first thing i did was make the ports fit, ala this:



sadly, as you can see, a little bit of the round-over on the bottom port had to go. The approximate length of both ports is 13.5", because that's what the psp calculator told me for 2 6" ports, 10 cubes, and 30 Hz.



next, wired up the drivers. I've got some 8 gauge cadence wire that I used for this.


then , on to bracing. The top and the bottom are the flimsiest, or so I would assume, so i tried to brace them as much as i could without going too overboard:



added some eggcrate foam:

[martiandancer31]

built up the frame in the back:


dry fitted all the back pieces (screwed them in but didn't glue yet):


removed, and worked from the bottom up:


and....i have a box now!! W00t!








i'm going to let everything dry until at least tuesday, and in the meantime hopefully do some electrical work so that I can start bumpin' ASAP. I only have one of the extra batteries atm so it won't be up to full potential until i get the other one, but i'm working on it!!