2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
I figured I should share the work I do with the forum, since I'm giving everyone advice and guidance.
This is a co-workers 2005 Sction tC. He is a recording engineer/musician/and sound tech and also works as an Acoustician with me.
I convinced him to upgrade his sound system and have a rolling reference system.
I am doing this build on weekends. Every time we finish for the day, he required that there was functionality. I am leaving out a lot of intermediate steps.
Equipment list is as follows:
Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-980BT
Front Speakers: Hertz Mille MLK-165 has a ML165 6.5" + ML28 tweeter
Rear Speakers: Hertz Mille ML2500 10"
Amp: Audison LRx 5.1k
Power Wire: Streetwires 1/0 amp kit
Speaker Wire: Tsunami 12awg
Interconnects: Monster Cable 6-channel
This list of equipment is all purchased authorized from a local shop. Owner didn't want anything used. Their prices are the same as online and they warranty directly. Cost of equipment listed is about $4000.
We also picked up 200st. ft. of Raammat BXT II and 200 sq. ft. of adhesive Ensolite ($800 total). The entire vehicle will be treated.
Then we bought lots of install accessories - wire, parts, resin, fiberglass, MDF, and our total is over $7000.
On to the pictures...
Factory Door - remove panel, remove all wiring clips, remove factory speaker, and clean all metal surfaces
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C_doors004.jpg
Trace the factory speakers and make a new baffle out of 3/4" MDF
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C_doors005.jpg
Mount using the factory speaker rivet holes and a 1.5" 10-24 machine screw and bolt.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C_doors002.jpg
Test fit before deadening
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C_doors001.jpg
You can't let MDF get wet - deaden the baffle
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C_doors006.jpg
Cover it 100%
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C_doors008.jpg
but don't cover the mounting holes! :)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C_doors007.jpg
you must protect the speaker from rain water. i use 3/4" closed cell foam weatherstripping along the top of the inside of the opening. gives the water a channel to follow AROUND the speaker.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C_doors020.jpg
then deaden the seam between the baffle and the door and over the foam
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C_doors023.jpg
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
This is the gear for the vehicle, minus the 165XL box since the local shop gave us the mids out of a 165XL comp set.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors034.jpg
It is comical what they have in the rear of this car. Two thin pieced of sheet metal combine at this rear speaker location, the speaker is mounted to this flimsy piece of metal surrounded by open area - can you say "free air"? The seal created by the rear grill panel is very important.
notice the blue organizer drawer - i use that to keep track of screws - i don't lose screws/bolts or end up with missing or extra parts.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors005.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors009.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors008.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors010.jpg
this is part one of this effort, so we focused on deadening the outside skin - two layers of Raammat BXT II.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors017.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors029.jpg
While the owner was laying the deadener, I made 3/4" MDF mounting baffles
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors015.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors016.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ardoors018.jpg
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
pics of wire routing and amp rack.
all wiring in split loom then taped to car using aluminum foil tape. Streetwires 1/0 on drivers side, remote on driver's side. Four 12awg wire pairs on passenger side, 6 channel Monster Cable RCA's down passenger side (along transmission hump). In all cases, signal cables are separate and only cross at 90deg angles for any noise rejection.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack008.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack007.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack006.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack005.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack017.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack015.jpg
amp rack is 1/2" MDF coated in resin. Here we see the Audison LRx5.1k and the Hertz MLK-165 crossovers on the board. this will be mounted on the driver's side and allows for access to tail lights
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack001.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack003.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack002.jpg
8-32 Hurricane nuts are used for all mounting
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amprack019.jpg
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
added three sheets of BXT II inside the rear hatch, reaching inside the cavity was time consuming, but worth the effort. Then we stuffed a lot of "polyfill" (part cotton) inside the cavity. The result is a much more satisfying "thud" when rapping on the hatch.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk011.jpg
all of this
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk012.jpg
up here
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk013.jpg
and here
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk014.jpg
and a few more sheets on the rear of the car - yes, i also see the spot on the driver's side hatch that could use a bit more to even out the panel, not that it would make a difference at this point, we still have two more flat boxes of BXT II left so i'll be done.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk015.jpg
we also stuffed the rear quarters with open cell foam and deadened over the opening. 3-4 layers of BXT II made for a nice covering. i wanted to eliminate that cavity as a source of audible resonance, which should be low enough now to not cause issues.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk002.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk003.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk006.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk008.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk009.jpg
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
then we carpeted the amp rack, cut out holes for mounting bolts, cables, and venting. the amp rack will have L-brackets on bottom (even have hurricane nuts for those) with a 3/8" threaded rod secured to the vehicle framing, through a factory trunk light opening, and through the panel.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk001.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk017.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk018.jpg
tip for carpeting a panel with mounting holes -you don't want carpet in the threads.
start by carpeting the outside (visible) side with room for overlap.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk022.jpg
drive screws through the hurricane nuts (or t-nuts) to expose them on the carpeted side (as bumps)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk021.jpg
now back out the screws, one at a time, and cut off the hump. now you have exposed all of the screws and you won't have issues with carpet
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk023.jpg
amp rack placed in the car - even this won't be visible as we will build a beauty panel to hide everything once we are finished.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...C/trunk024.jpg
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
Here is an exterior shot of the car
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity002.jpg
We terminated the new 12 awg wiring for the rear speakers, disconnected the factory wiring.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity005.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity006.jpg
I zip-tied the loom below the speaker to provide strain relief
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity007.jpg
Next came the foam. we had to trim down on the foam in order to have adequate panel depth. this foam is important for several reasons - absorption and a firm surface for the deadener. Yes, we are adding deadener on top of this foam in order to provide a sealed cavity.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity008.jpg
cutting the deadener in preparation for placement
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity009.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity010.jpg
sealing it up first layer
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity011.jpg
multiple layers
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity012.jpg
then adding Closed Cell foam (with PSA adhesive) from Raammaudio
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...rcavity013.jpg
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
Re: 2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log
The tweeter spheres for Hertz ML28 tweeters. Driver side is the same. DIYMA has a long thread on tweeter spheres, and they do sound amazing. diffraction is real, an so is the ensuing phase interference. the spheres eliminate most of this.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...spheres014.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...spheres017.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...spheres020.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...spheres022.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...spheres024.jpg
aiming
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...spheres025.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...spheres028.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...spheres029.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...spheres030.jpg
We have brass tubing to cover the threaded shaft that we will paint silver. we'll fill and paint the sphere. the tweeter logo will be horizontal and upright. wire is through the threaded rod and will terminate in a plug or terminal. end product should look good.
