
have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.
My 2001 Accord build log:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html
Can I help you? valencebandacoustics@gmail.com
Want to learn about car audio electronics?
http://www.bcae1.com
Such an amazing build. I definitely want to do a Sq install like this one day. So inspirational how everything is so perfect, where did you get the sheet metal from? I want to seal up my doors like that.
New Car, New Build coming soon... will consist of:
RF 360.3&Apple iPad Mini
Tantric comps
Sundown subs and amps
Mechman HO alt
Deka batts
Knu Conceptz&Shok wire
Audio Technix deadening

have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.
My 2001 Accord build log:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html
Can I help you? valencebandacoustics@gmail.com
Want to learn about car audio electronics?
http://www.bcae1.com
Excellent build. The only thing I don't understand is the deadening. Why did you use so much CLD I don't believe the 25% rule is always enough but it seems like you went beyond overkill especially putting multiple layers on the floor of the vehicle and wheel wells (which are curved) basically places where you wouldn't expect much resonance. Also can't believe you did all that and no MLV! Other than that excellent build his car must be a **** tank now. Cant imagine how it affected mileage :p
Got deadener? Sick build. Your doing this **** the right way. Gonna sound clean and ill be dammed if your gonna hear any rattle in this thing.
keep_hope_alive thanked for this post

keep in mind the two people installing this are an acoustical engineer and a recording engineer. we did what was necessary to control resonance in the car and we tested resonance on each panel before deciding when to stop. most outer panels have two layers. i ignore the 25% "rule" because it wasn't based on science or ASTM test methods, just someone's opinion. my results are good because i don't follow rules from those who are not recognized as industry experts in their field (and even then I still question them until i concur with the test methods and conditions).
deadener weight is still less than a passenger. no worries there.
you can research what automakers do for testing to determine resonance and factory deadener needs to satisfy their goals (regardless of how meager). there are ASTM tests for this sort of thing.
Last edited by keep_hope_alive; 12-06-2012 at 07:59 PM.
have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.
My 2001 Accord build log:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html
Can I help you? valencebandacoustics@gmail.com
Want to learn about car audio electronics?
http://www.bcae1.com
by no means am I an acoustical engineer but Ive always thought that 25% rule was BS.. sure some deadener will help but MUCH more is needed, especially in a SQ set up like this.
even for my truck, i double layered the inner and outer doorskins of my truck, double layerd the floor, all in AT 60 mil. back wall and roof are single layer due to the fact that I ran out,
also.. as far as CCF concerns, i used some to go over where the blow through cut was in my truck since we only tack welded the panel back in to keep from welding and holy hell.. the ccf has silenced it, i mean it was sealed and deadened over before i applied the ccf but now it is completely silent, my truck is way quiter than it was previous the Second Skin CCF.. so IMO, all the deadener you can afford and apply to your car will help. @4bannger
New Car, New Build coming soon... will consist of:
RF 360.3&Apple iPad Mini
Tantric comps
Sundown subs and amps
Mechman HO alt
Deka batts
Knu Conceptz&Shok wire
Audio Technix deadening

certainly, there are transmission loss gains to be had with full coverage and multiple layers. our main focus was resonance, TL gains were an added bonus.
have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.
My 2001 Accord build log:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html
Can I help you? valencebandacoustics@gmail.com
Want to learn about car audio electronics?
http://www.bcae1.com

finally got back at this thing. sounds great, but had some door noises/buzzes at very high volumes
had to go back and open up the doors. luckily, screws made this process very easy.
added pvc encased fiberglass in the door cavity.
also added foam and deadener to the door panels. foam between various parts and seams.
including foam at the door clips to keep them stiff. they were audibly buzzing (the things you notice as you make a vehicle very, very quiet)
![]()
have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.
My 2001 Accord build log:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html
Can I help you? valencebandacoustics@gmail.com
Want to learn about car audio electronics?
http://www.bcae1.com

we also upgraded the stock 100A alternator. ordered a 160A from Quality Power. sadly, it's still not enough, the LRx5.1k is a beast. a 240A is the right choice. we have contacted Quality Power and they are going to let us upgrade. The customer service is outstanding. We highly recommend them:
http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/
a dedicated ANL fuse holder for the alt positive wire
the battery was made on 10/2010. it was floating at 12.2V even after a charge. we cannot find the receipt. Farm and Fleet doesn't have a record of the purchase because they don't keep track of that. Autozone owns Optima and doesn't have a record of what Farm and Fleet does. Despite the battery having UPC and other codes that allow Optima to track date of manufacturer and where it was sold, we don't know if they will honor their 3 year replacement warranty. Had we bought the battery from Autozone, they would have tracked the purchase for us.
It is not likely the warranty will be honored. As a result, we will NOT be buying another Optima product and I will no longer recommend them in the forums.
The next battery will likely be a DieHard Platinum Group 34/78DT (made by Odyssey).
Last edited by keep_hope_alive; 03-18-2013 at 02:17 PM.
have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.
My 2001 Accord build log:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html
Can I help you? valencebandacoustics@gmail.com
Want to learn about car audio electronics?
http://www.bcae1.com
I'm also from rock island with a 2011 tc and a full jl audio set up and would love to see this car in person. I've never heard hertz in person but would love to hear it and that amp is a monster.
looks clean man love the attention to detail
2001 Honda Civic EX
power acoustik 8" over sized touch screen
doors Stock
1- Atmos Audio 18
1- Audiopipe 1000d mini @2 ohms
Electrical stock for now
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl_ardHXEkg"]My old System
http://www.myspace.com/sykodjthereal"]If you Need Beats click this
http://www.carstereoforum.net"]http://www.carstereoforum.net
Have you given stinger batteries a look? I use all of their wiring products and like them a lot and I know capacitors are a touchy subject to some but I've always used them and never had a problem with batrery fade. Just have to make sure you get a powerful enough one. Stinger sells one that's 20 farad and cost a little over 200 retail.
I'm pulling my 220 amp out next week. I could of sent it to you cheap.
- 2010 Scion tC
- Alpine CDA-117
- JL 450/4v2 Active (Mid range, tweeters) JL 300/2v2 (Mid bass) DC 5K(Subs)
- Hertz HV 165XL
- Hertz HT28
- JL ZR800
- 2 x DD 9512i
- Singer 300 amp 15.1v bypass, 3 XS D3400s
- DD M4a and XS D3100 coming soon
- Viper 5701 with Smart Start
Bookmarks