1999 Silverado Alpine Build

[winkychevelle]

I'd go with the bigger box because of the displacement of the woofer in the box it will take some room. And the r's like to be ported I recommend something like a SSD from fi for a sealed situation just get the high qtc option. Only thing bout that is they aren't selling them right now

[Calikid]

Nice truck bro, your in OC, CA?

[silveradokid]

Nice truck bro, your in OC, CA?

Ya I'm in CA, and thanks!

[keep_hope_alive]

Parts Express has some automotive carpet for a decent price. that is where i shop for carpet.

i prefer to run my own wiring, that way i minimize resistance through wire gauge and connections. factory wire is usually small with very long runs.

i'm glad you're starting with music - i.e. speakers. be sure to take your time and get good seals around those front speakers.

[silveradokid]

Some updates...

This is what my truck has looked like the past few days.

[silveradokid]

Today I got around to cleaning things up and wiring in the speakers
They had nice little clips that were holding the factory wiring up, so I was able to zip tie my new speaker wire to it


Got my speakers back in hooked up with some good wiring!
And best part is, my dad came out to see how it was going and decided he wanted to help me!

Got the head unit back in and everything cleaned up...

[silveradokid]

Just waiting for some wiring to come in the mail, along with the fatmat, fuses, and a few do dads. Once the fatmat comes I can put that down and the get the carpet back down and put the stuff back up on the wall. Then I will be able to build my amp rack and stick that in. Once that's done, the subs will be in motion!

[ejschultz]

First of all, this sounds like it's going to be a pretty decent build. I really like my Type R 15 I have in my Jeep. It does a pretty decent job in there off 630 RMS. You'll like them. I actually went from a CVR to the Type R. Mine wasn't stolen though, I blew it.

thats why you make them have to work to get it out not a box sitting under the seat!! my box has 12 bolts threw the back wall and 4 threw the floor and the subs have lag bolts holding them in ...so if they break in its not something they can grab real quick ..there is also tamper screws kinda like locking lug nuts you can get to hold the subs in and amps down

My whole back seat has to come out to get my box out of my Caprice. I've got that ish mounted behind the box where you can't reach it without removing the backseat that wasn't designed to be removed.

I'd go with the bigger box because of the displacement of the woofer in the box it will take some room. And the r's like to be ported I recommend something like a SSD from fi for a sealed situation just get the high qtc option. Only thing bout that is they aren't selling them right now

They are selling them, they just have a 30+ day build time. I want to say they started taking orders for them again last week sometime. I've been eying a set of those for my car for a while. I think they'd do decently in my sealed box.

[silveradokid]

I had one of these laying around, so I took it apart and soldered it to my headlamp terminals to turn it into and overhead lamp. It is super bright!

[silveradokid]

Parts Express has some automotive carpet for a decent price. that is where i shop for carpet.

i prefer to run my own wiring, that way i minimize resistance through wire gauge and connections. factory wire is usually small with very long runs.

i'm glad you're starting with music - i.e. speakers. be sure to take your time and get good seals around those front speakers.

What do you mean seals around the front speakers? And Ya i decided I really didn't like driving around listening to the sound of my exhaust(although it sounds awesome, just no beat to it ya know?), so I was first going to make my truck music mobile lol.

[keep_hope_alive]

notice how the rear speakers are mounted in doors that have lots of holes. it's like listening to a speaker while holding it in your hand. the back wave combines with the front wave - causing cancellation. this is why they lack midbass output and sound distorted in midrange. seals that make the rear cavity air tight are the key to good midbass and clear midrange.

some sheet metal, silicone or foam weatherstripping, and self piercing screws can easily seal up those holes.

i use weatherstripping foam at every speaker. closed cell between speaker and metal. open cell between speaker and factory panel/grill. without closing the holes, you rely on the plastic panel to cancel a back wave.

here is a good build log to get examples of what i'm talking about.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre.../1#Post1805987
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre.../1#Post1369669

where speaker wire passes through a metal opening or touches the edge of a metal panel, try to insulate it, split loom is pretty cheap.

nice work so far.

[silveradokid]

Thanks for the advice! But I don't have the money to buy enough deadener and ensolite to cover all my doors to close up all the holes, it's just too expensive. And they sounded alright before, what they lacked in bass the subs made up for. And doing it with sheet metal might be a little difficult, and not sure how much or where I can buy sheet metal.

[silveradokid]

Sorry its been a little while, I've been busy working and waiting for parts. I've decided that I'm going to order more fatmat and hopefully put it on all the doors and the floor. It will take a little while before I get that. I'm also hoping I can build or order a box next week along with the subs.

[silveradokid]

Making some speaker baffles to create a better seal around the speaker. Not sure if you can see it but the person who had the truck before me just hacked up the metal trying to create a bigger opening, so these should help to create a good seal.

[silveradokid]

This build is becoming more and more extensive each day. After finishing the amp rack today and thinking of ways to securely mount it, me and my dad decided that we will probably take the bed off to mount it, while the bed is off I will be replacing the fuel pump and painting the frame/rear axle. So this will take a lot longer than originally planned, and it will cost a lot more than I thought. I ordered 50sqft of fatmat to do the rear floor and wall, along with parts of the doors. Today I started sealing up some of the doors with thick aluminum tape. I also bought some polyfill to throw in the rear doors since they are just empty. I will try to order some subs soon and will be looking for an amp. Just a lot more money to throw down for this thing.