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    Nevalite's Avatar
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    My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    Hey everyone,

    So today I got around to doing my Big 3. I did it all my 1/0 AWG Kicker Hyperflex. Let me know what you think:















    This reading is with the car off (no alt)





    I left some of the stock wires on but I figured it doesnt matter because the electricity will take the path of least resistance. The only thing I was wondering about was if it mattered if the new wires were above the old wires on the battery terminals, should I have the 0 AWG as the first ring terminals sitting on the battery terminals or does it not matter?

    Also how could I test that my big 3 is working? I tested the resistance of my ground spots to my battery negative and it gives the same reading as when I touch the two ends of the DMM together (0.05 Ohms) So I know they are good, any other tests I could do to?

    What do you guys think?



    1992 I4 Manual Toyota Camry
    -----------------------------

    Alpine CDA-9883
    Pioneer 6.5s and 6x9s
    Alpine 12" Type-R --->2.4 Cubes tuned to 34 Hz in the trunk
    MRP-M1000
    Big 3 with 1/0 AWG Kicker HyperFlex
    1/0 Kicker HyperFlex and Streetwires ZN5

    Refs: djman37 (bought from), Derrick824 (bought from), boltpride (bought from)




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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    Why does my car have to be the only one thats a pain in the *** to get to the alt...

    mazda 626 ftl...




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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    **** thats a clean big 3! wish mine was that easy!




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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    Clean your chassis to ground, looks really rusty on the engine..

    Besides that looks good.

    Quote Originally Posted by mazzasec View Post
    **** thats a clean big 3! wish mine was that easy!
    x2




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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    that is a nice lookin. now ill have to redo mine cuz now i think mine is ****** look



    03 s-dime xtreme ext cab
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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    Quote Originally Posted by jbizzle View Post
    Clean your chassis to ground, looks really rusty on the engine..
    I sanded it down completely underneath the ring terminal, it only looks rusty around, where it makes contact its shiny bare metal.



    1992 I4 Manual Toyota Camry
    -----------------------------

    Alpine CDA-9883
    Pioneer 6.5s and 6x9s
    Alpine 12" Type-R --->2.4 Cubes tuned to 34 Hz in the trunk
    MRP-M1000
    Big 3 with 1/0 AWG Kicker HyperFlex
    1/0 Kicker HyperFlex and Streetwires ZN5

    Refs: djman37 (bought from), Derrick824 (bought from), boltpride (bought from)

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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    I left some of the stock wires on but I figured it doesnt matter because the electricity will take the path of least resistance. The only thing I was wondering about was if it mattered if the new wires were above the old wires on the battery terminals, should I have the 0 AWG as the first ring terminals sitting on the battery terminals or does it not matter?

    Also how could I test that my big 3 is working? I tested the resistance of my ground spots to my battery negative and it gives the same reading as when I touch the two ends of the DMM together (0.05 Ohms) So I know they are good, any other tests I could do to?
    What about these questions?



    1992 I4 Manual Toyota Camry
    -----------------------------

    Alpine CDA-9883
    Pioneer 6.5s and 6x9s
    Alpine 12" Type-R --->2.4 Cubes tuned to 34 Hz in the trunk
    MRP-M1000
    Big 3 with 1/0 AWG Kicker HyperFlex
    1/0 Kicker HyperFlex and Streetwires ZN5

    Refs: djman37 (bought from), Derrick824 (bought from), boltpride (bought from)

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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    Spray paint the places you sanded down... Don't want holes in the sheet metal. Rust FTL.



    '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee
    Source: Pioneer 880 PRS *Active
    Tweeters: 1" CDT TW-25
    Midrange: 6.5" CDT CL-65
    Sub: 15" SSA Icon
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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    Quote Originally Posted by ultimate157 View Post
    Spray paint the places you sanded down... Don't want holes in the sheet metal. Rust FTL.
    Yeah I was about to go do that, should I prime it and then spray it or just put like 2 coats of spray? I'm gonna cover up the ring terminals and wire with tape before I spray.



    1992 I4 Manual Toyota Camry
    -----------------------------

    Alpine CDA-9883
    Pioneer 6.5s and 6x9s
    Alpine 12" Type-R --->2.4 Cubes tuned to 34 Hz in the trunk
    MRP-M1000
    Big 3 with 1/0 AWG Kicker HyperFlex
    1/0 Kicker HyperFlex and Streetwires ZN5

    Refs: djman37 (bought from), Derrick824 (bought from), boltpride (bought from)

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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    A light coat of primer would help



    '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee
    Source: Pioneer 880 PRS *Active
    Tweeters: 1" CDT TW-25
    Midrange: 6.5" CDT CL-65
    Sub: 15" SSA Icon
    Box: 4.0 @ 32hz
    Amp: Soundstream Tarantula 2kW

    Feedback thread

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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Rashaddd View Post
    Why does my car have to be the only one thats a pain in the *** to get to the alt...

    mazda 626 ftl...
    2005 civic isnt easy at all either. especially with fat hands!



    sold to : vitveet, ZeroAccess, Regalboi97 bought from: pboulos, mikescanlon, pickup1, konechiwa, CaliforniabOY5, desertheat
    Quote Originally Posted by DDeitz View Post
    blacks buy cars owned by white men who were designed by asians and made by mexicans ...see everyone contributes to the cycle
    Quote Originally Posted by Willkas View Post
    today I was messin with my newly installed subs, i really have no clue what they are but they're definatly old school. Out of nowhere, it burts into awesome mode and starts shaking the garage doors of the entire lot ( work in a auto shop).
    I just want to here some theories how this happened.
    In case you were wondering I drive a tahoe and when I say loud I mean loud to the point that your ears will pop and it starts hurting.

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    Re: My Big 3 *Pics* Few questions

    I left some of the stock wires on but I figured it doesnt matter because the electricity will take the path of least resistance. The only thing I was wondering about was if it mattered if the new wires were above the old wires on the battery terminals, should I have the 0 AWG as the first ring terminals sitting on the battery terminals or does it not matter?

    Also how could I test that my big 3 is working? I tested the resistance of my ground spots to my battery negative and it gives the same reading as when I touch the two ends of the DMM together (0.05 Ohms) So I know they are good, any other tests I could do to?



    1992 I4 Manual Toyota Camry
    -----------------------------

    Alpine CDA-9883
    Pioneer 6.5s and 6x9s
    Alpine 12" Type-R --->2.4 Cubes tuned to 34 Hz in the trunk
    MRP-M1000
    Big 3 with 1/0 AWG Kicker HyperFlex
    1/0 Kicker HyperFlex and Streetwires ZN5

    Refs: djman37 (bought from), Derrick824 (bought from), boltpride (bought from)

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