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View Full Version : Custom fiberglass amplifier/crossover/sub rack in a 2001 Maxima ***PICS***



MetalMaxima
05-14-2005, 06:14 PM
Ok, so I finally got around to making the new amplifier/x-over rack, here's the order of operations:

(1) Tape trunk - DONE 5.14
(2) First fiberglass layer - DONE 5.14
(3) Remove first layer - DONE 5.14
(4) Cut MDF partial false floor & back for equipment mounting
(5) Cut base to height
(6) Second layer of 'glass
(7) Mount amp & x-over boxes
(8) Wrap and glass enclosure
(9) Sand, sand, sand.
(10) Paint
(11) Show off and gloat :D

MetalMaxima
05-14-2005, 06:15 PM
Here's a pic of the old rack...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/spider/Maxima/Rack/Final%20Trunk%20front.jpg

MetalMaxima
05-14-2005, 06:18 PM
Taping the trunk...I did 2 layers of 3M construction masking tape, good stuff.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/01%20-%20Trunk%20taping%20left.jpg

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/02%20-%20Trunk%20taping%20right.jpg

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/03%20-%20Incomplete%20trunk%20taping.jpg

MetalMaxima
05-14-2005, 06:20 PM
Here's the trunk fully taped
http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/04%20-%20Fully%20taped%20trunk.jpg

Yeah, we got some chopmat!!!!!
http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/05%20-%20Tons%20o%20chopmat.jpg

And now, finally, the first layer...this took FOREVER. I am so glad I will not have to do another layer in the trunk, it ******.
http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/06%20-%20Base%20first%20layer.jpg

BoomCrew
05-14-2005, 08:06 PM
looks bad @ss so far keep us updated

azbass
05-14-2005, 08:13 PM
ooooo. cool

bcarpenterfhl
05-15-2005, 12:38 AM
use wood on the long flat parts (ie the floor).

looks great so far man.

XtrmAudioCncpts
05-15-2005, 12:52 AM
looks sweet cant wait for you to be done with it

THUNDERBIRD
05-15-2005, 03:05 AM
kool

hookdupexpo
05-15-2005, 08:50 AM
Yeah, wood on that long flat part, but i heard that it even works if you just have like pieces of wood put into it, instead of one long piece of wood. Makes sense though because it would force the fiberglass to bend around it and the bent spots are best for fiberglass. Might Look kinda weird tho haha...

THUNDERBIRD
05-15-2005, 12:22 PM
and it would save on the amount of glass that u would use

lotas
05-15-2005, 02:19 PM
looking good...you could also soak some rope in resin to make "ribs" and such, I did that on the long part of my fiberglass enclosure and it made it stronger.

cappy72
05-15-2005, 02:31 PM
congrats... hows the back feel from all the bending over???

ngsm13
05-15-2005, 02:49 PM
Looking good thus far...why don't people use MORE resin. You shouldn't be able to see the actual strips or fibers anymore if you use enough ;)

NG

MetalMaxima
05-16-2005, 07:52 PM
congrats... hows the back feel from all the bending over???

*****. Hurts like hell :eyebrow:

MetalMaxima
05-16-2005, 07:52 PM
Alright, got some more work done today...

Picture of the trunk stencil removed...took a bit of elbow grease to get this thing out!!!
http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/07%20-%20Trunk%20Stencil.jpg

Ok, then I trimmed the sides and the front & rear...
http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/08%20-%20Trunk%20Stencil%20Trimmed.jpg

And finally, I added the second reinforcing layer to the sides and curves for strength.
http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/09%20-%20Second%20Layer.jpg

bcarpenterfhl
05-16-2005, 08:57 PM
that must be some thick matt your using. usually with matte you cant really tell the overlaps, but i can tell just with the picture.

JAZN
05-16-2005, 08:58 PM
comin along nicely. good job keepin up on the pix. :)

MetalMaxima
05-16-2005, 10:01 PM
that must be some thick matt your using. usually with matte you cant really tell the overlaps, but i can tell just with the picture.

Well, they guy I bought it from on eBay CLAIMS it's 2oz., but ****, is it hard to cut...

chinny
05-16-2005, 10:12 PM
Whats the biggest box i can fit in a maxima? 98-00

bcarpenterfhl
05-16-2005, 10:51 PM
Whats the biggest box i can fit in a maxima? 98-00

have you tried measuring?

MetalMaxima
05-16-2005, 11:08 PM
Whats the biggest box i can fit in a maxima? 98-00

Not sure, you are referring to a 4th gen, I drive a 5th gen. I know a few members on the .org whom have hit +145dB @ 35hZ in a '98.

PM Slick rick...he hit it using a ported box @ 600W using a 15" Avalanche.

lotas
05-17-2005, 01:23 AM
looking good

it does look rather odd/funny how you can see each strip. Also made me think at first you arent using enough resin, but if its 2oz maybe that is why.

bcarpenterfhl
05-17-2005, 01:40 AM
but if its 2oz maybe that is why.

2 oz. seems not dense enough for me. one would think 2 oz. would conceal itself better.

chinny
05-17-2005, 06:44 AM
Not sure, you are referring to a 4th gen, I drive a 5th gen. I know a few members on the .org whom have hit +145dB @ 35hZ in a '98.

PM Slick rick...he hit it using a ported box @ 600W using a 15" Avalanche.

Talking to him as we speak :)



have you tried measuring?

Cant really measure, i wanna know before i buy that car :)

req
05-17-2005, 08:10 AM
2 oz. seems not dense enough for me. one would think 2 oz. would conceal itself better.

thats not 2oz anyway. it looks more like 12~15oz.

whoever you bought that from is a liar. if it were real 2oz, youd be able to see right thru it - and it would take about 15 layers to get to the thickness i would be comfertable using with a subwoofer.

MetalMaxima
05-17-2005, 09:14 AM
thats not 2oz anyway. it looks more like 12~15oz.

whoever you bought that from is a liar. if it were real 2oz, youd be able to see right thru it - and it would take about 15 layers to get to the thickness i would be comfertable using with a subwoofer.

Probably. It takes a TON of resin to soak these strips...close to 500mL for 5-6 strips.

lotas
05-17-2005, 05:59 PM
what oz. is home depot mat and how many layers do you reccomend for a 12" enclosure?

MetalMaxima
05-17-2005, 09:35 PM
what oz. is home depot mat and how many layers do you reccomend for a 12" enclosure?

Go hijack another thread or start your own, please. Read the package...and obviously without knowing the weight, how can we answer your question? :furious: :offtopic: :spank:

bcarpenterfhl
05-17-2005, 09:48 PM
i dont know if you should trusy that fiberglass man. it looks like you can just pull it right apart.

MetalMaxima
05-18-2005, 07:53 AM
i dont know if you should trusy that fiberglass man. it looks like you can just pull it right apart.

After the first layer? Yes. :crap:
After the second one? No way in hell. :D

req
05-18-2005, 08:02 AM
i dont know if you should trusy that fiberglass man. it looks like you can just pull it right apart.

why would you say that??

looks fine to me... :eyebrow:

MetalMaxima
05-18-2005, 08:10 AM
why would you say that??

looks fine to me... :eyebrow:

Particularly when he said...


that must be some thick matt your using. usually with matte you cant really tell the overlaps, but i can tell just with the picture.

GCAdidas13
05-18-2005, 09:28 AM
what oz. is home depot mat and how many layers do you reccomend for a 12" enclosure?

Home depot MAT is 12oz. home depot WEAVE is 6oz. Five. Seven. STFU. :jk:

MetalMaxima
05-28-2005, 04:01 PM
Alright, here's a shot of the amplifier box...thanks to Jeff Culinan for building me these!

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/12%20-%20Amp%20box.jpg

and a shot of the crossover boxes...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/13%20-%20Xover%20Boxes.jpg

...and a shot of the rounded over edges...nice!

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/14%20-%20Roundover%20Boxes.jpg

MetalMaxima
05-28-2005, 04:07 PM
I also had him cut a recess on the inside of the boxes so I can run EL wire for lighting inside the boxes.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/15%20-%20Neon%20Recess.jpg

A shot of the secured false floor and bracing for subwoofer box cutout.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/16%20-%20Frame%20Floor.jpg

Here's a shot of the amp box mounted...the boards underneath are there because I have not fully secured the backing yet. I need to remove the amp box to trace out the lines for the crossovers.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/17%20-%20Amp%20Box%20w%20Frame.jpg

MetalMaxima
05-28-2005, 04:08 PM
A test draping of the fleece

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/18%20-%20Test%20Wrap.jpg

MetalMaxima
05-28-2005, 04:10 PM
I did, however, have to go back and change the mounting of the amplifier rack. It did not look right as is; in the pic it is centered with the 'glass; I changed the mounting to NOW center with the trunk.

Another problem I now have to contend with is the mounting of the crossover boxes in a position such that the fleece will not interfere with the trunk operations. No problem, it will just limit the angle I can mount them on.

More pics as things develop!

the_noob
05-28-2005, 04:16 PM
lookin' good. I can't wait to see this thing when it's finished.

MetalMaxima
05-28-2005, 04:22 PM
lookin' good. I can't wait to see this thing when it's finished.

Yeah...ME TOO!!! :laugh:

JAZN
05-28-2005, 05:09 PM
damm you gotta lotta nice tools and workplace to work on. coming along nicely man.

MetalMaxima
05-30-2005, 03:52 PM
Alright, the first thing I had to do was trim out and clean the sides of the fiberglass. Here's the right side...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/20%20-%20Right%20Corner%20smooth.jpg

...and now the left side...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/21%20-%20Left%20Corner%20smooth.jpg

...and from the front.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/19%20-%20Ready%20to%20wrap%201.jpg

MetalMaxima
05-30-2005, 03:55 PM
For bracing everything, I used Liquid Nails Perfect Glue Formual #1 for the wood, and used simple decking brackets for support.

Here's the subwoofer cutout...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/23%20-%20Sub%20brace.jpg

...and the amp box.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/22%20-%20Decking%20Brace.jpg

MetalMaxima
05-30-2005, 03:55 PM
nice, keep taking lots of pics :thumbsup: ill probably be doing a similar thing soon...

will the spare tire still be accessible?

Yep! :)

MetalMaxima
05-30-2005, 03:57 PM
NOW, finally time to wrap it. I am using polar fleece as my material of choice since it is both stretchy and thick.

Pic of the ight side...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/24%20-%20Right%20wrap.jpg

...and of the left side from the rear...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/25%20-%20Left%20Wrap.jpg

...and from the rear...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/26%20-%20Rear%20Wrap.jpg

MetalMaxima
05-30-2005, 04:00 PM
Now, time to resin the thing up! The resin did not go on as nicley in some areas as I would have hoped, but nothing a little sanding cannot mend.

As seen from the left...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/28%20-%20Left%20Glass.jpg

...and the right...you can also see what I like to refer to as "fiberglass tumors", I'll sand these out after it cures.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/30%20-%20Right%20Glass.jpg

...and of the rear...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/29%20-%20Rear%20Glass.jpg

MetalMaxima
05-30-2005, 04:01 PM
...and from the front!

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reim/dans%20folder/Trunk/31%20-%20Front%20Glass.jpg

Insomniac119
05-30-2005, 04:13 PM
Such a nice beautifal garden and yard you got there. Oh, and the amp-rack-sub-box-thing is beatifal too. ;)

MetalMaxima
05-30-2005, 04:26 PM
Such a nice beautifal garden and yard you got there. Oh, and the amp-rack-sub-box-thing is beatifal too. ;)

Nothing beats the smell of pansies and MEKP in the morning! :D

chubby
05-30-2005, 04:33 PM
i dont get it

azbass
05-30-2005, 04:47 PM
looks rad

req
05-30-2005, 05:16 PM
mkep reminds me of rank *****.

dont fiberglass the fleece anymore. it shuold be strong enough for its purpose.

if anything - put resin on the inside :)

looking good man.

saywhat?
05-30-2005, 05:48 PM
im confused on what the hell this is LOL i just see shape....but good quality work done for whatever it is lol

nametaken
05-30-2005, 08:33 PM
wow man, awesome job. you make it look so easy.

JAZN
05-30-2005, 08:40 PM
damm thats big. good stuff.
and that is a quaint lil garden.

MetalMaxima
05-31-2005, 08:04 AM
mkep reminds me of rank *****.

dont fiberglass the fleece anymore. it shuold be strong enough for its purpose.

if anything - put resin on the inside :)

looking good man.

Oh, I know. ;)

I have to pick up some thixitropic powder tonight and glass the inside

req
05-31-2005, 08:18 AM
yea, that stuff works wonders :D

fumed silica - even sawdust works.

cappy72
05-31-2005, 08:40 AM
**** man... this is coming along very nice. This week I was thinking about starting to complete my trunk with some glassing but seriously you make it seem like my son can do it.

A++

+ some for DYI

MetalMaxima
05-31-2005, 09:14 AM
**** man... this is coming along very nice. This week I was thinking about starting to complete my trunk with some glassing but seriously you make it seem like my son can do it.

A++

+ some for DYI

It's really not that hard, I bought a DVD to research all of the proper steps...so with a little know-how it's not too hard. Just be patient and take your time with the steps...and make sure you have the right tool! Remember, this is my first fiberglass project...EVER.

You can do it, too! :naughty:

MetalMaxima
05-31-2005, 09:16 AM
yea, that stuff works wonders :D

fumed silica - even sawdust works.

Would you think that sawdues would work as good as the powder? (would save me an hour in drivetime tonight)

PS - Your avatar is teh funney

req
05-31-2005, 09:56 AM
all you need is somthing to thicken up the resin.

if you really wanted to, a 60\40 with bondo works too. ask dborntodb about it - he has a thread where he does it. it could possibly work.

MetalMaxima
05-31-2005, 10:06 AM
all you need is somthing to thicken up the resin.

if you really wanted to, a 60\40 with bondo works too. ask dborntodb about it - he has a thread where he does it. it could possibly work.

Eh, I don't think that would work. That more for a pourable resin for kicks/tweets, put I may be wrong...

req
05-31-2005, 10:15 AM
it may, it may not.

but really anything that is really fine and will absorb resin and thicken it up. hell, maybe flour would work?

MetalMaxima
05-31-2005, 12:05 PM
it may, it may not.

but really anything that is really fine and will absorb resin and thicken it up. hell, maybe flour would work?


I was thinking about that...and you know what? I am going to try it!!!!! :laugh:

req
05-31-2005, 12:08 PM
LOL. lets see how it works!

you can get fumed silica on ebay tho. i bought some, and it works great.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4552945457&category=26451&sspagename=WDVW

:)

robbie_turner
05-31-2005, 01:05 PM
great first time effort. whats all this about thickening the resin. i haven't looked on this forum for a couple of months now? is it to save on the amount of resin or to make it thicker so you don;t have to do so many layers?

lukedogg
05-31-2005, 01:27 PM
I have heard of people using talc instead of fumed silica. They said it works, but it is heavier.

MetalMaxima
05-31-2005, 01:35 PM
great first time effort. whats all this about thickening the resin. i haven't looked on this forum for a couple of months now? is it to save on the amount of resin or to make it thicker so you don;t have to do so many layers?

Thanks! Actually, it's so that it doesn't drip all of my head/hands/arms when I'm applying it. :veryhapp:

dbornotdb
06-01-2005, 10:51 AM
If you have the saw dust, it will work perfect for you.

I did some speaker pods for a guy who couldn't make up his mind on what size he wanted to use. So I made the mounting ring for a 6.5. Then, when I thickened the inside of it, I used sawdust from the MDF, I just painted that where the speaker goes also to fill it in. It came out just as hard as the wood was, but easier for him to cut to size than it would have been had it been all MDF.
Did that make any sense?

dbornotdb
06-01-2005, 10:51 AM
Oh, and by the way...........................looks good. :cool:

MetalMaxima
06-01-2005, 11:33 AM
Oh, and by the way...........................looks good. :cool:


Thanks! I used flour to make my DIY thixitropic powder...lol!!!

IT WORKED!!!! It's curing now, I should be able to get some more pics up on Thursday. I am gonna have one helluva time sanding this ******. :crap:

req
06-01-2005, 12:18 PM
get some 80 grit. and have at it.

are you planning on painting? put a nice runny coat (mix with a hint of acetone) of resin on the outside first. will get rid of ALOT of the roughness.

MetalMaxima
06-01-2005, 01:42 PM
get some 80 grit. and have at it.

are you planning on painting? put a nice runny coat (mix with a hint of acetone) of resin on the outside first. will get rid of ALOT of the roughness.

You think I should do that or maybe do a quick sanding and then coat with a 50/50 mix of bodyfiller/resin?

Maybe it's just the resin I used, but MAN that stuff is hard as nails.

MetalMaxima
06-14-2005, 09:29 PM
Ok, been working my azz off on this project, the updates you see are in chronological order, although I couldn't give you the exact dates. I will add text as if it were the stage seen.

So, since I am in a bind and need thixitropic powder, I needed to homebrew. So I added one-and-one-thirds cup flour to 0.5L of resin & xxmL MEKP (I stopped measuring, the color is a better gauge for me). For the record, FLOUR WORKS AS A GREAT THICKENING AGENT!!!!

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/32%20-%20Flour.jpg

Here you can see it cured.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/33%20-%20Top%20Inside.jpg

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/34%20-%20Top%20Inside%202.jpg

MetalMaxima
06-14-2005, 09:37 PM
...but the funny thing is...I DIDN'T NEED IT IN THE FIRST PLACE!!!! I found this out real quick. PWN3D!!!! Oh, well. Here you can see where I did not use the flour.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/35%20-%20Right%20Interior.jpg

BIG MISTAKE #1 - Since I had some leftover resin after I finished the inside, I figured, "Might as well just add on top of the exterior layer!" Wow, wish I NEVER would have done that. It made the surface EXTREMELY hard and near impossible to sand. With that said, let's segue into...

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/36%20-%20BIG%20mistake.jpg

BIG MISTAKE #2 Ugh, gaps everywhere. I decided to mix a 50:50 mix of bodyfiller and resin/MEKP to pour onto the mold. Theoretically, gravity should cause the mix to self level, right? Well, it did, but I did not account ofr body filler cure rate >>>>> resin/MEKP cure rate. As a result, I would up having streams of the mix curing ATOP of the existing mix. What I should have done was had a second person to help me with such a big piece. It was very difficult to move around in order to facilitate proper flow of the mix. Ugh, what a mess!!!!!!

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/37%20-%20Poured%201.jpg

MetalMaxima
06-14-2005, 09:38 PM
More pics of the horror.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/38%20-%20Poured%202.jpg

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/39%20-%20Poured%203.jpg

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/40%20-%20Poured%204.jpg

MetalMaxima
06-14-2005, 09:50 PM
I spent the past week in +90*F heat (+95*F heat index) sanding down the whole mess with 60-grit paper. I first tried with a regular electric sander. That chopped the paper up too fast. Next, I tried using a drill with a 5" sanding wheel attached. That did not work either - it created too many 'steppes'. (see pic)

THESE ARE STEPPES (http://www.mortier.free-online.co.uk/20030506_RidgewayWalk/24_Steppes_1800.JPG)

So...looks like I am going to have to give the WHOLE thing a handjob. As I was sanding, I would go back, trace the area for any pits and fill with glazing putty (the blue stuff). I used 3M Blue Acryl Glazing Putty. The I would go back, sand again. Repeat this horrifically redundant process for a week. Only one section required additional bodyfiller (the red stuff). Then I cut out the recess cover and sanded the perimeter.

FINALLY!!!! 60-GRIT SANDING PHASE IS DONE!!!! http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/images/smilies/toast.gif The curves are not perfect (I blame that on the wrapjob), but they are very fluid! Next up are the 150, 330, and 500-grit sanding jobs, which I should have done by the end of the week.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/41%20-%20Prime%20Ready.jpg

Acidburn
06-14-2005, 10:02 PM
wow, that's pretty interesting looking man

atleast it's getting there

saywhat?
06-14-2005, 10:03 PM
looks like I am going to have to give the WHOLE thing a handjob



u do that!.......looks awsome though, still tryna figure what its gunna look like in the trunk, good luck!

MetalMaxima
06-14-2005, 10:04 PM
u do that!.......looks awsome though, still tryna figure what its gunna look like in the trunk, good luck!

I'll get everyone a picture tommorow. :p:

MetalMaxima
06-14-2005, 10:06 PM
wow, that's pretty interesting looking man

Yeah...I was a little too severe with respect to filling the pits, a good primer would have filled them nicley...but this is my first project, and I don't want to cut any coners.

Unfortunatley, until it's painted, it's going to look like a tumor-ridden cow. :D :laugh:

JAZN
06-14-2005, 10:11 PM
nice fix. those resin/mecp/filler pictures make it seem really horrible, but looks like you got everything working :)

JAZN
06-14-2005, 10:11 PM
Unfortunatley, until it's painted, it's going to look like a tumor-ridden cow. :D :laugh:
lol great description

MetalMaxima
06-25-2005, 12:59 PM
ALRIGHT, TIME TO PAINT!!!! What you see here was an arduous week of filling, sanding, filling, and sanding. I first sanded it down with a 60-grit paper, followed by a 200-grit, 500-grit, high-build primer, and finally a wet-sand @ 800-grit. The wood was primed with Kilz sealer, that was a pain in the but. Then finally, I painted it with a gloss-black paint.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/42%20-%20Final%20Prime.jpg

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/43%20-%20Left%20Painted.jpg

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/44%20-%20Rightside%20Painted.jpg

MetalMaxima
06-25-2005, 01:00 PM
Here is a shot of the front! I am going to be using a chrome paint for the interior of the box, I have to wait for the paint to cure first. The temp outside is 93F with a heat index of 100F, so it should not take too long!

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/45%20-%20Front%20Painted.jpg

Starky
06-25-2005, 01:44 PM
awesome job...thats tight as hell

theCybe
06-25-2005, 02:16 PM
I feel your pain on the sanding, I've been at it for over a week :)

Kali77
06-25-2005, 02:20 PM
Looks GREAT!! Can't wait to see everything installed.

Kali

XtrmAudioCncpts
06-25-2005, 02:30 PM
wow i cant wait for this to be done. keep up the good work

MetalMaxima
09-24-2005, 12:05 AM
FINALLY DONE.

http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/47%20-%20Final%201.jpg


http://elvis.rowan.edu/~reimj40/dans%20folder/Trunk/47%20-%20Final%202.jpg

PV Audio
09-24-2005, 12:56 AM
Giad Dayum!

azbass
09-24-2005, 12:58 AM
looks good. blacks such a hard color to paint

9512ds
09-24-2005, 01:11 AM
that is absolutely amazing

PV Audio
09-24-2005, 01:13 AM
this man is incredible

Insomniac119
09-24-2005, 02:34 AM
You are the Maxima Master!

THUNDERBIRD
09-24-2005, 02:41 AM
Looks Awsome!!

saywhat?
09-24-2005, 11:30 AM
pics in car?

saywhat?
09-24-2005, 11:30 AM
looks good. blacks such a hard color to paint



try silver.

PV Audio
09-24-2005, 12:58 PM
silver isn't hard to paint....

saywhat?
09-24-2005, 01:03 PM
silver isn't hard to paint....


u must be retarded as **** if u think silver isnt difficult to paint. black is EASY to spray. SILVER shows EVERY SCRATCH the sandpaper leaves behind. if u like to buff a **** load.....go for it my friend.

PV Audio
09-24-2005, 01:07 PM
i've been painting RC car bodies for years. i always use silver backing, and never have any problems. however, in this application silver may be difficult, but i still side with black.

mikescanlon
09-24-2005, 08:04 PM
pics in car, amazing fiberglass work, open a shop dude : )

saywhat?
09-24-2005, 08:06 PM
i've been painting RC car bodies for years. i always use silver backing, and never have any problems. however, in this application silver may be difficult, but i still side with black.


RC bodies...........color THEN silver. fucktard. try silver as a base/clear app. then talk to me : ) i sprayed a truck this way and took ~4 days to buff it. full days too.

ngsm13
09-24-2005, 09:00 PM
WOW MetalMax...you got A LOT of **** goin on at the same time with that car. How do you find the time for it all? Looks amazing man, love it.

NG

Johnny Drama
09-24-2005, 09:05 PM
WOW MetalMax...you got A LOT of **** goin on at the same time with that car. How do you find the time for it all? Looks amazing man, love it.

NG


x2

You will definatly have one of the nicest cars on the forum. Best part is you have done it all yourself and not paid someone to do it. Definate + for that :D

PV Audio
09-24-2005, 10:05 PM
RC bodies...........color THEN silver. fucktard. try silver as a base/clear app. then talk to me : ) i sprayed a truck this way and took ~4 days to buff it. full days too.
full days lmao, u pulled an all nighter...and yes i have done it with silver as a base on some people's but, i havent painted one in awhile that was silver as a base. nothing too difficult for me at least...black i still have trouble with though.

fozzymuphet
09-25-2005, 11:17 AM
Girls you are both pretty now would you please stop argueing over the black and silver dress.

smullen
10-02-2005, 05:23 PM
Cool any updates.... Love to see it with the equiptment in it...

IamDeMan
10-02-2005, 08:31 PM
You have serious talent bro.