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View Full Version : Bondo + Acetone + Paintbrush =....



bcarpenterfhl
05-11-2005, 12:16 AM
.....best body filling job of my life. i just thought i let you glassers/potential glassers know. the paint brush conforms to every little hole and discrepency, and evenly spreads the bondo. use a 2 inch brush or wider, and lots of acetone to get it nice and runny. i wish i posted pics of the fiberglasss job i'm doing right now. by far my best work yet, but no body every seemed to interested in my past glassing jobs, so i didnt bother.

Insomniac119
05-11-2005, 12:21 AM
Don't feel down, I'm interested. The paintbrush idea sounds like a good one. I'll try it next time I get the chance.

bhsswrstlr
05-11-2005, 12:26 AM
dude send me all the pics to [email protected]

ive got a huge glassing project planned for this weekend and i want every bit of help i can get.

thanks
ryan

ruckus
05-11-2005, 12:28 AM
hell im intersted, Im starting my first fiberglass job on saturday. if my fiberglass mat shows by then ;)

bcarpenterfhl
05-11-2005, 12:29 AM
i didnt take any pics of the progress, i'll take one when i finish sanding though. check out the worklog in my sig for pics of the whole process.

req
05-11-2005, 12:49 AM
basically, brian and i came up with this like, i unno. two months ago.

i dont know if he saw it or somthing, but we posted it all over the place.

what i did, was a reagular layer of bondo and whatever, then take a glass and put acetone in there, and use a paint brush to smooth out the bondo. it will eat away the top and smooth it out nice. and it gets rid of all those gay little pinholes and whatever at the same time.

after it dries, sand it rough with some 100~220, and then mix your bondo up (not too much) and add acetone until its like a really thin cream, like whole milk, brian and i called this procedure 'milking'. then use a brush to apply this 'milk' to the surface to fill in LOTS of imperfections and it will smooth itself out because its runny enough, but not too runny that it will still stick :)

ngsm13
05-11-2005, 02:36 AM
.....best body filling job of my life. i just thought i let you glassers/potential glassers know. the paint brush conforms to every little hole and discrepency, and evenly spreads the bondo. use a 2 inch brush or wider, and lots of acetone to get it nice and runny. i wish i posted pics of the fiberglasss job i'm doing right now. by far my best work yet, but no body every seemed to interested in my past glassing jobs, so i didnt bother.

No ****, did that weeks ago ;)

NG

ngsm13
05-11-2005, 02:38 AM
Even better tip is to take a a paper towel wetted in acetone and smooth out the bondo right after you put it on. This...really doesn't dilute the bondo making it less hard...or make it take longer to cure. I liked using regular strength bondo, then wiping it after applied with the acetone towel...smooths it out REAL nice. ;)

NG

bcarpenterfhl
05-11-2005, 03:15 AM
No ****, did that weeks ago ;)

NG

pardon me for not taking note of every event in your life.

ngsm13
05-11-2005, 10:55 AM
pardon me for not taking note of every event in your life.

It's okay, you are now forgiven ;)

NG

GCAdidas13
05-11-2005, 11:14 AM
well i found it best to actually use a good amount more than enough to fill the pinhole... that way when you sand, the acetone+bondo will sand off really easy. besides being a little bit wasteful, there is no downside.

on a side note - i was doing some bondo and i did a 40/60 split of acetone and body filler - aka way too much acetone. then i sat it out in the sun. the bondo cracked and got sticky, and never cured completely. i gave it a day, and i did use enough hardener. so i think that if you use too much acetone it won't cure at all. . . . .

dbornotdb
05-11-2005, 12:27 PM
on a side note - i was doing some bondo and i did a 40/60 split of acetone and body filler - aka way too much acetone. then i sat it out in the sun. the bondo cracked and got sticky, and never cured completely. i gave it a day, and i did use enough hardener. so i think that if you use too much acetone it won't cure at all. . . . .


Thats why I don't like this mix.

I would like to see some "honest" assesments of this mix that has been used 6 months to a year later to see how it stood up over time.

Tirefryr
05-11-2005, 01:22 PM
I use a mud/resin/hardener mix then pour it over the entire thing. It will stick well, easily conform to everything, make sanding easy, cure properly and give excellent results. Follow this up with a glazing putty if needed and finish as desired

datguyclark
05-11-2005, 01:25 PM
hell i used bondo "icing" no pinholes, self leveling easy to work with, 'twas like buttah

monte_carlo97
05-11-2005, 01:34 PM
sounds like a good idea. i would like to see some pics and get some more info on it.

GCAdidas13
05-11-2005, 01:41 PM
i hope it holds up!

i think when summer comes around i'll re-bondo and paint my kicks to make them ultra smooth :D

i also have to redo my tweeter pods - one of them is too close to the A-pillar and got knocked loose of the plastic sail

dbornotdb
05-11-2005, 07:53 PM
Sometimes I use 60% resin and 40% body filler. Mix well and then add MEKP to it. It self levels. And gets hard as rock.

Seems to me a the acetone would effect the chemical reaction and break down the properties and not let it properly set. (not trying to sound smart, just came out that way)

bcarpenterfhl
05-11-2005, 08:00 PM
i dont know, it seems to me like the acetone only temporarily makes it runny, then completely evaporates out.

dbornotdb
05-11-2005, 08:26 PM
i dont know, it seems to me like the acetone only temporarily makes it runny, then completely evaporates out.


That makes some sense. I guess you just need to be sure you don't add alot of acetone.

Where the pics at?

bcarpenterfhl
05-11-2005, 08:37 PM
fine brb........

bcarpenterfhl
05-11-2005, 09:12 PM
here it is. i wish i took a picture of the original piece, but oh well. this was glassed on a panel from a 1990 Mustang 5.0. the panel fits right back into the center console, and the screen will be viewed by the passsengers in the back. i took the panel out, raised the monitor shroud-thing with wooden dowels, stretched an old t-shirt over it, saturated the shirt in resin, let dry, kitty haired to shape and strengthen, sanded, body filled, sanded. i still have a little more sanding to do, then i will vinyl it. i wanted the ashtray that was in the panel to be able to be useable because i thought it helped to make it look more stock.

http://img93.echo.cx/img93/6514/sam4pz.jpg

GCAdidas13
05-11-2005, 11:06 PM
bcarpenter - work on your sig pic. it's all white and stuff... looks icky.

and nice center console. GG being a month late on whole milk :D

bcarpenterfhl
05-11-2005, 11:09 PM
bcarpenter - work on your sig pic. it's all white and stuff... looks icky.

i like it, but i may change it.

Insomniac119
05-12-2005, 01:45 AM
bcarpenter - work on your sig pic. it's all white and stuff... looks icky.

you don't have much room to talk.

bcarpenter: great job, it looks really smooth.

lotas
05-12-2005, 02:47 AM
you don't have much room to talk.


:hilariou:
:rotflol:

looks good to bcarp...sorry you got raped for "figuring it out a month late".

i mean shi t...at least you figured it out on your own, you didnt read it somewhere, thats whats important, who cares if someone else knows about it, right? Its not like those two fiberglassers came up with it first anyways, think of people that work with it and have for decades on boats etc!

:toast:

joeldirt
05-12-2005, 03:47 AM
have you tried the body shake? equal parts = or minus to get concistancy down of body filler and resin? you can make it thin enough to pour on, or just thick enough to paint on. comes out smooth. any pin holes can be filed with glazing putty and finished off.

GCAdidas13
05-12-2005, 08:39 AM
you don't have much room to talk.

:rolleyes: