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lil azn 06
05-21-2007, 09:44 PM
just started deadening my doors today. question for people in the know. im a plumber and we've got plumbers putty that we use to seal up sink drains, shower drains, and basically anything we want to prevent from leaking - ive swiped a few containers from my van to use on the mdf rings.

the container says "keep away from strong oxidizers"
--problem= im not a scientist.

can i use this putty instead of clay?

Does it harden? Because you would want to use something non-hardening.

chibahawk
05-21-2007, 09:50 PM
no it doesnt harden or retain moisture. as for heat resistance i havent been able to find an exact number regarding whether or not itll stand up to a ny summer.

im just not sure if using it against the back of the speaker is a good idea in case it oxidizes??

chibahawk
05-22-2007, 04:05 PM
Heres some stuff I did today. Did about 2/2.5 layers. Still have plenty more eDv1. I'm applying it with a blowdryer and really sticking the edges on so hopefully I won't have to deal with it coming off.

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/605/dsc00352bh9.jpg

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/5320/dsc00353dr3.jpg

http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/2893/dsc00354yp9.jpg


****

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/8783/dsc00356xd8.jpg
****Also has anyone ever tried using Great Stuf foam in the doors? I used some in my left door... I'm thinking of being real careful and filling up the very innermost part closest to the engine that I can't really reach with deadener. Have to watch out for the window track and also not to block the drains for water. Anyone think it's a good/bad idea? Should I not bother?

I'm using the stuff for windows that WILL NOT expand to the point of bending the door frame.

websterbud
05-22-2007, 07:27 PM
What type of non-hardening modeling clay are you guys using? Went to the crafts store today and they had Roma Plastina, but only #1 and #2...are these okay to use?

FoxPro5
09-24-2007, 12:53 AM
What type of non-hardening modeling clay are you guys using? Went to the crafts store today and they had Roma Plastina, but only #1 and #2...are these okay to use?

Yes.

The non-hardening clay I buy is just regular clay with wax added to it so that it doesn't harden over time.

mpbojangles
01-09-2008, 10:30 PM
This may have been asked in the previous 21 pages, but is there anything that you can do to the egg carton foam to make it water resistant. cover it with a plastic bag and melt it on (with a lighter) might be an idea? What do yall think?

TriXR4Kids
01-09-2008, 10:46 PM
Would extra pads of ensolite behind the speaker be comparable to the egg carton foam for breaking up the waves?

FoxPro5
01-19-2008, 07:11 PM
Would extra pads of ensolite behind the speaker be comparable to the egg carton foam for breaking up the waves?

What do you mean "extra"?

Ensolite is a brand of closed cell foam which is often used for its waterproof qualities (sports equipment, industrial apps where there is water, etc). There are many types of Ensolite and many more types of CC foam.

Typically egg carton foam is open cell, but you have to check and see for sure which one you have. Technically, it should be more absorptive of sound because of its material properties. The draw back is that it can also absorb water, too.

If you want to defract or "break up" sound waves you need a blocker or a barrier. This is where products like Deflex pads come in handy. They are resonably good (depends on frequency band) at "scattering" sound waves, but not so good at absorbing them. They are almost always made out of low durometer rubber or silicone and have a convoluted surface to "soften" the blow of a rear wave from a close distance.

KB15
01-30-2008, 09:53 PM
Does this happend to work for just basic installs or is this for speakers that will be used for midbass... etc.. etc...

I would look to install bunch of infinity 6012i to replace the stockys nothing big... but by doing thsi will this improve anything?

outspoken
01-30-2008, 09:54 PM
Does this happend to work for just basic installs or is this for speakers that will be used for midbass... etc.. etc...

I would look to install bunch of infinity 6012i to replace the stockys nothing big... but by doing thsi will this improve anything?

if by doing this you mean deadening, then yes you will notice a major difference...

KB15
01-30-2008, 10:00 PM
well i look to change the speakers anyways i guess ill throw the remaning i have left around the speaker and work outwards... by dynamating the door (i have that elemental design one forget the name) but yea will it also help keep some of the road noise out aswell??

outspoken
01-30-2008, 10:02 PM
well i look to change the speakers anyways i guess ill throw the remaning i have left around the speaker and work outwards... by dynamating the door (i have that elemental design one forget the name) but yea will it also help keep some of the road noise out aswell??

yes it will keep road noise out... edead is what you are using i believe, and i assume you read this thread, the instructions i mean... if you don't do the whole door properly, i wouldn't expect a major improvement...

KB15
01-30-2008, 10:07 PM
i got the .75mm thick one its a pretty thick pieice and i ahve enough for maybe about 65% of the entire door n alot of it i mite not need because of the holes in the door what wil i fill thoes with not messing with the window from going up and down?

Sheetal K
02-04-2008, 10:35 PM
Nice Article. I went for Dynamat.. bit costly..but, I never regret.
check this: http://acousticsforyou.com/articles/2007/12/do-you-hear-rattling-sound.html

zoo keeper
02-27-2008, 02:13 PM
why do you guys put 2 or 3 layers of deaden? i never did any, but soon when it stops snowing here in PA

soundQinSC
03-29-2008, 10:06 PM
Great job on those doors!

carracr625
05-09-2008, 05:09 PM
Of all the things to install in car audio... sound deadener is the most time consuming thing. The whole time I was installing sheet upon sheet of fatmat to my accord. I just couldn't help but laugh while thinking about how much time I spent scrapping the asphalt deadener from my full-race civic!

ironchef b
06-04-2008, 06:18 AM
whats your thoughts on applying an additional pad and/or liner over a few layers of deadener? is it very beneficial and worth the hassle? my last question is should i spray rubberized under coating in the wheel wells?

FoxPro5
07-01-2008, 11:38 AM
whats your thoughts on applying an additional pad and/or liner over a few layers of deadener?

Depends on the acoustic characteristics of the material(s) used and how they are applied.

What works *best* in the automobile depends on the area you're treating and the noise frequency band you're trying to affect.

Start at the beginning of the process with a specific goal and select the most appropriate materials for accomplishing it within your budget.


my last question is should i spray rubberized under coating in the wheel wells?No. Why would you if they've already been sprayed?

WrenchGuy
07-01-2008, 11:48 AM
If you use egg crate foam use Tent and tarp spray on it first.

This will keep moisture and mildew off of it.

DaPinballWizard
07-10-2008, 11:09 PM
I wasnt sure where to post but ive read a few places on here that when you deaden your doors to throw away the foam/plastic liner that is inside of the doors. I work at a body shop and a few of the new cars that i have worked on have air bag sensors inside of the doors that rely on pressures inside the door to determine airbag deployment and if that is no longer there there is no pressure inside the door on impact and it can cause the airbag to deploy later. If they are sealed up really good from the factory its a good idea to get them sealed up really well again. Most people seem to get the door sealed up really well anyway but its just something else to think of other than speaker performance.

bakesalee
07-14-2008, 04:04 PM
Page 1 said, "Make sure to do both the inner panel and the outer panel."

Could this be explained to a dummy such as myself? Does this mean the actual steel door, and also the trim panel that attaches to the door?

jdc753
08-05-2008, 05:07 PM
Page 1 said, "Make sure to do both the inner panel and the outer panel."

Could this be explained to a dummy such as myself? Does this mean the actual steel door, and also the trim panel that attaches to the door?

When you pop off your inner door panel the most immediate piece of metal that you see (where the speaker will mount too) will be your inner door panel. This inner panel should have lots of holes in it and molded shapes and such, these holes are for access to the window mechanisms and door locks and such, the piece of metal that you see THROUGH those holes in the first piece of metal is your Outer door panel. The outer panel is the same as the outside of the door on your car. So reach through all those holes with the window up and cover as much area as you can with the amount of deadener that works for you. Then when that outer panel is all deadened you can move on to sealing the big holes and deadening the inner panel.

ironchef b
09-13-2008, 05:36 PM
Depends on the acoustic characteristics of the material(s) used and how they are applied.

What works *best* in the automobile depends on the area you're treating and the noise frequency band you're trying to affect.

Start at the beginning of the process with a specific goal and select the most appropriate materials for accomplishing it within your budget.

No. Why would you if they've already been sprayed?

All that i have left to do is the floor pan and i'll be using dynamat xtreme. the product i waas looking into were the dynaliner and pad.
thanks for your input and hoping for more.
aloha's

seth556
12-09-2008, 05:05 PM
I feel stupid, but where can I get some of the eggcrate foam?

seth556
12-10-2008, 03:32 PM
bump

khanhfat
12-12-2008, 03:33 PM
thefoamfactory.com

trunks9_us
01-29-2009, 01:54 AM
First time to see this thread bump this to the top this is a great thread.

groove269
02-17-2009, 12:49 AM
if i get (2) dynamat extreme trunk kits would that be enough for both trunk and doors? id rather have some left over then run short of supply.

toyopl
07-06-2009, 08:48 PM
I read all 22 pages, but I'm a newb and sometimes obvious things don't make sense or can't understand.
I have Scion Xb, and wanna follow this guide and deaden the whole car:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=149357&highlight=deadening

1.Is RAAMmat BXT™ still good product to use ? or is there better and more value friendly product.
2.Also can I use it for the whole car, doors, floor, trunk, (should I do the roof ?)
3.Ensolite™ MLC is it necessary ? is it the egg carton thingie discussed here ? does it withstand water and mold ? and where do u apply it ?
4.The plastic panels of doors and hatch area need to b deaden too ? Do I use RAAMmat on them aswell ?
5.2 layers would b enough ? on the whole car ?
6.RAAMmat is 62.5 Square Feet per Roll, 3-4 rolls would b enough ?

teenycar
09-30-2009, 01:36 AM
My door project. Thanks to the good folks on this forum for the advice along the way.
Stripped the doors and put two layers all throughout the outside panel and 2, 8X8 squares behind where the speaker will mount and glued some ensolite 8X8 squares behind the speaker as well. Now I am "plugging" the inner door panel holes using perforated aluminum 20 guage. Inner panel has 1 sheet of raamat. I am putting raamat on the inside and outside of each fill panel too.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/TeenyCAR/Chevy%20truck/Picture001.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/TeenyCAR/Chevy%20truck/Picture004.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/TeenyCAR/Chevy%20truck/Picture006.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/TeenyCAR/Chevy%20truck/Picture007.jpg

SHEILA
12-16-2009, 06:14 AM
remember that the sound is in waves
use the blocks to deflect the waves to where you want them

the coarse surface will absorb some, so the sound will be heard more in that area,
if you coat the surface it will reflect more, and less will be heard and directed where you want it.

SHEILA
01-14-2010, 01:26 PM
You are right that *** and love are not out of world experience.
But I would like to correct you that both these are far far wonderful, then shown in movies or music videos.










_____________
Midnight Hour (http://www.myspace.com/midnighthourrock)

Bubblebass
02-13-2010, 01:46 PM
I have read about 25 pages here....what seems to be the best product used for the best price for the front doors? Raamat seems to be really hard to order from the site and very expensive! Anyone comment on this stuff?

50 sqft R-BLOX Sound Deadener +Dynamat Sample : eBay Motors (item 270527597662 end time Feb-14-10 01:27:39 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50-sqft-R-BLOX-Sound-Deadener-Dynamat-Sample_W0QQitemZ270527597662QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMot ors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3efcb38c5 e)

and is $75 a good price for it for 50'?

If I use some caulk under the speaker rings, so I need to use clay? I have been reading that it just peels off with heat and my summers are 110 here.

I am thinking of just getting this stuff, some MDF and caulk and a very small peice of egg crate for behind the speaker itself. Do I need to do that even if there is deadener behind the speaker?

RMF419
02-24-2010, 06:32 PM
I have read all of these pages myself. What I am confuse about is; In my car the speaker is mounnted in the door panel itself. There is good room in there. I have an sls in there now. I wanted to do a better job of mounting this speaker. Along with adding some cld tiles to the outer shin with some mass loaded vinyl. Should I cut thru and mount to door or leave as is. Here are some pics of the situration. http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e202/RMF419/Mods/PICT4694.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e202/RMF419/Mods/PICT4695.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e202/RMF419/Mods/PICT4696.jpg

_s_m_a_c_
03-31-2010, 09:26 AM
Has anybody tried hercaliner (truck bed liner) for deadning/soundproofing? Somebody suggested it to me and after knocking around a utility/rescue vehicle entirely covered with it I have to say it seemed to work. A gallon is around $100. Thoughts?

open321max
04-19-2010, 08:11 AM
hi
Wow,thats just sweet,I`m going to have to do that to my (http://www.open321max.com) doors with the egg carton stuff.

sdmtnbiker420
04-27-2010, 04:21 AM
You are right that *** and love are not out of world experience.
But I would like to correct you that both these are far far wonderful, then shown in movies or music videos
_____________
Midnight Hour (http://www.myspace.com/midnighthourrock)

what music videos you been watchin

only1db
05-25-2010, 07:10 AM
holy good read batman!


where can i get the non hardening clay from? a craft store?

like others my speakers were getting wet and one of my hex series midbass speakers took a dump on me, i'm replacing them(hopefully with another set) but i'm going to be redoing my door adapters and the clay seems like a really good idea. over the eyers the wood that i used (1/2 inch plywood) as broken apart and rattles.

FlexnInLa
07-11-2010, 07:24 PM
What the **** is this freak? Has this thing been banned? I didn't know that was "this kind" of forum.

jcalvert86
07-16-2010, 02:50 AM
Is it of any benefit to deaden the plastic door panel backside in any way? whether mat or liquid?

emilimo701
08-01-2010, 08:31 AM
lol @ clay

at first i thought it was a joke....

AWD PSI
08-28-2010, 10:53 PM
Great thread, I read it all and learned a lot. Also read through Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com).
I do have questions about foam. Does it have to be CCF in the door panel? I found sheets of foam at Jo Ann Fabrics in various density and thickness. It's the same type foam as the egg carton stuff used behind the speakers but smooth, is this good for anything else? The only CCF I can find is at the sporting goods store. It is a mat for under sleeping bags and looks like small egg carton sheets. Living in SoCal I don't worry about rain much but this seems like a better choice for inside the door skin behind the speaker. Will this work ok? If it has to be CCF in the doors where can you find it locally? Thanks for any help.

***Edit*** I also came across floor pads made out of EVA foam. You can get a fairly large mat from a sporting goods store for $30. Would that foam be useful for anything?

emilimo701
09-10-2010, 11:13 PM
Great thread, I read it all and learned a lot. Also read through Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com).
I do have questions about foam. Does it have to be CCF in the door panel? I found sheets of foam at Jo Ann Fabrics in various density and thickness. It's the same type foam as the egg carton stuff used behind the speakers but smooth, is this good for anything else? The only CCF I can find is at the sporting goods store. It is a mat for under sleeping bags and looks like small egg carton sheets. Living in SoCal I don't worry about rain much but this seems like a better choice for inside the door skin behind the speaker. Will this work ok? If it has to be CCF in the doors where can you find it locally? Thanks for any help.

***Edit*** I also came across floor pads made out of EVA foam. You can get a fairly large mat from a sporting goods store for $30. Would that foam be useful for anything?

most closed cell foams have the properties of being resistant or impervious to things like moisture, mildew, UV sunlight, contact with chemicals, all of which are usually applicable to what a vehicle is exposed to. some CCFs are probably also more resistant to tearing, and that SDS site also talks about compression set but the open cell foam you find at JoAnns might be fine for that too, i'm not sure.

I'm awaiting some foam in the mail if you want to follow:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/speakers/488604-secondskin-overkill-alternative-what-do-you-guys-think.html

emilimo701
09-10-2010, 11:18 PM
This thread has a lot of useful information, but it also has a fair share of misguided information. Perhaps should be de-stickied in place of an updated one? With a tutorial from someone who has been formally educated in some way relating to this topic, and with adequate experience using these products (and/or products from other domains of DIY that can be transferable for possible better solutions)? and the title is very cheesy hah

SHEILA
09-22-2010, 09:13 AM
hello friend,
it's very good exeperience to sit in the car and liston high watt bufer sound it just like rocking


Need a premium iPhone app developed? Premium iPhone Apps (http://www.premiumiphoneapps.com)

SPLAudioHz
10-13-2010, 01:27 AM
I haven't read all 25 pages, but has Fatmat been mentioned? I used about 2000 sq ft in my durango and found it to be pretty solid stuff.

emilimo701
10-13-2010, 01:59 AM
I haven't read all 25 pages, but has Fatmat been mentioned? I used about 2000 sq ft in my durango and found it to be pretty solid stuff.

yeah you wasted 1900+ square feet

mcm308
11-23-2010, 06:11 PM
Any body ever use anything like this? It's 6" wide roll.. about 1/16" thick, pressure sensitive adhesive back... I have some surplus at my work and am thinking of using it for my doors...
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/Wicked500R/IMG_2381.jpg

Dave88LX
12-12-2010, 09:43 AM
yeah you wasted 1900+ square feetJunk stuff? Or only need a little bit of it?

emilimo701
12-16-2010, 07:20 AM
Junk stuff? Or only need a little bit of it?

only need a little on certain problem areas.

emilimo701
12-16-2010, 07:21 AM
Any body ever use anything like this? It's 6" wide roll.. about 1/16" thick, pressure sensitive adhesive back... I have some surplus at my work and am thinking of using it for my doors...
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/Wicked500R/IMG_2381.jpg

seems like that could serve multiple purposes. I have some butyl tape, but it's a little thicker. I haven't used it yet though

Alrojoca
08-18-2012, 07:59 PM
Hello!
I finished my rear doors, needed to add more sound deadening and fixed my rear rattles, I put as much as I could on the external outer metal, maybe left about 2-3 inches untreated on each side of the external metal.

The problem I have is one of the rear doors (left)does not close as easy as the right door. My right door, I barely push and it closes by itself, my left door does not close unless I make 2 or even more times the effort to close it. I have more than enough on both doors and I do not want to waste material since all I want to do is make it close easier and tighter.

My question,


Where do I add more SDM to add weight to make it close with less effort, inner layer center, Lower,higher ?
outer layer, inner layer? closer to the hinges, center, high, low? closer to the end, high, low, middle?


Thanks in advance for your help!

Flex68
08-18-2012, 08:51 PM
Holy dead thread revival, Batman!

Yes, Robin, and wtf is SDM? Is that an evil new abbreviation that is being used against we doer's of good?

Alrojoca
08-18-2012, 10:04 PM
Holy dead thread revival, Batman!

Yes, Robin, and wtf is SDM? Is that an evil new abbreviation that is being used against we doer's of good?

Sound Deadening Material, is that really that hard (SDM)? I posted a thread in the G D section and got no answer yet, I figured since this is a sticky and and a SDM how thread I would post my issue and get some help. Any ideas?

Flex68
08-18-2012, 10:37 PM
Adjust and grease your door hinge and/or latching mechanism.... "SDM" is to deaden sound, not to help doors close better

Hulk311
12-06-2012, 01:15 PM
I'm going to install new Rainbow speakers in my Buick Verano (same size as Chevy Cruze) which has triple sealed doors. Do I really need sound deadning in the doors or not? I read that sound deadning does not improve midbass, is that true? If I do need sound deadning, I am thinking of going with Damplifier Pro, how many sq feet per door will I need?

brafferty
08-06-2015, 03:27 PM
i had thought about using that foam "egg" looking stuff that was in the door panel in the original post, to add deadener to my hatch since it rattles alot, anyone try using it besides him?

seedlings
08-06-2015, 03:44 PM
i had thought about using that foam "egg" looking stuff that was in the door panel in the original post, to add deadener to my hatch since it rattles alot, anyone try using it besides him?

The egg foam that is commonly used as packaging material during shipping is really good for two things: 1st- packaging material during shipping, and a distant 2nd- a cushion to sit or kneel on. It has zero acoustic absorption properties.

Have a look here for suggestions:
Trunk Lid / Hatch Door / Tailgate | Sound Deadener Showdown (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/area-treatment/trunk-lid-hatch-door-tailgate)

CHAD

brafferty
08-06-2015, 09:15 PM
The egg foam that is commonly used as packaging material during shipping is really good for two things: 1st- packaging material during shipping, and a distant 2nd- a cushion to sit or kneel on. It has zero acoustic absorption properties.

Have a look here for suggestions:
Trunk Lid / Hatch Door / Tailgate | Sound Deadener Showdown (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/area-treatment/trunk-lid-hatch-door-tailgate)

CHAD

thanks man!

JohnKuthe
09-15-2016, 07:43 PM
You'll see how little it really is.

That's why I bought a 50ft roll of Dynamat. I do NOT want to run short! :-)

John Kuthe...

wingless
09-18-2016, 06:25 AM
Here is the Dynamat XTREME (http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/car-audio/dynamat-xtreme/) treatment I did on the doors of my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I am the original owner who special-ordered this vehicle over 22 years ago.

The speaker cone suspension ring on the original Infinity Gold full range speakers crumbled away, so almost all the sound was coming from just the factory dash tweeters. While I had the doors apart to swap to the Infinity Kappa 60.11cs Component Speakers (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086011CS/Infinity-Kappa-60-11cs.html?search=60.11cs&skipvs=T) I decided to also add the Dynamat XTREME.

Given that service after Dynamat covers all the openings will be difficult I lubricated the latch mechanism and the window mechanism for smooth operation.

The factory installed a clear LDPE sheet, glued using a specific pattern, to the painted door sheet metal, hidden by the door card. This was a full-coverage sheet, covering the openings, pierced only by fasteners, wires, handles and the speakers. There was also a thin black sheet, lightly stuck to the LDPE sheet. The thin black sheet crumbled away onto the ground shortly after the door card was removed.

The "temporary" adhesive used to retain the clear LDPE sheet to the door sheet metal transitioned to "permanent" adhesive over the years and refused to let go. The LDPE sheet was destroyed during removal.

The old adhesive was removed from the painted sheet metal. I used WD-40 to soften the rock-hard adhesive to expose the factory paint job. The WD-40 residue was then removed to provide a clean-clean-clean surface for the Dynamat.

The new Infinity Kappa 60.11cs full range speaker has a mounting ring that was required to mate up w/ the door speaker fasteners. The mounting ring has three slotted tabs at 180 spacing that match up to the nylon inserts that had been used to accept screws for the factory speakers. The mounting ring also has four holes at 90 spacing to accept self-tapping screws to retain the speakers to the ring. Fortunately the bolt circle diameter of those four holes is larger than the speaker hole so I was able to have those four self tapping screws also bite into the door sheet metal.

There was a dry fit w/ the new speaker, on top of the mounting ring to ensure everything would fit w/o issues. All of the yellow quick fasteners were removed from the door card perimeter for the quick fit. There was plenty of clearance for the components under the door card.

A pattern was created for the Dynamat. A sheet of clear, thick plastic and a Sharpie were used to make the pattern. The surface contour required cutting a dart in the large sheet so the excess material would overlap, to lay flat when installed. All the wires were unplugged and were tucked into the door interior while the pattern was being created. The door handle and rods were also removed while the pattern was created. It was good news when I discovered that the driver's door pattern and the passenger's door pattern are mirror images.

My plan was to maximize coverage and minimize openings. My pattern has a hole where the door handle pulls the rods for the latch and lock. There are flaps cut in the Dynamat where the handle mechanism bolts to the door, then the flaps go over the top of the bolted mechanism frame. There are holes w/ clearance for all the quick push fasteners. There are holes for the wiring harness push fasteners.

The door cabling goes in and out of the door cavity. I maintained that routing, w/ holes cut in the Dynamat for those wires.

The assembly w/ the large single Dynamat sheet was a sequential process to ensure everything would be reconnected as-required. The starting point was the door handle opening. There is Dynamat under the door handle (but not between the mechanism frame and the door sheet metal) so the Dynamat had to be placed before the door handle and rods could be installed. There were similar sequences required for it all to work.

The latch and lock rods are very close to a large opening. I used UL plenum tape on the interior of that opening so the Dynamat could not grab onto the rod fabric.

The mfg recommends using a roller, or using their roller (http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/accessories/), but I found my two thumbs worked best to stretch the material so it followed and bonded to the irregular contours on the door sheet metal.

The dart cut is visible to the left and above the Infinity Kappa 60.11cs 6-3/4" Component Speaker. The dart cut was required to permit the material to follow the door contours, by making a small overlap. Also note the bottom edge of the fresh material is not straight, to provide extra material to permit it to fill the pocket near the bottom.

The process took some effort, reaching to the door interior while progressing to get the desired results.

The Dynamat is an outstanding product. This was my first project w/ this material. I do not hesitate to recommend Dynamat.

The Dynamat provides lots of acoustic dampening and some thermal attenuation. Their other products Dynaliner and Dynapad provides lots of thermal attenuation and some acoustic dampening. When using both, apply the Dynamat first.



http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m52/wingless-pics/Jeep/Dynamat%20Pattern.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m52/wingless-pics/Jeep/Dynamat%20Full%20Door%20Skin%20Cut%20Ready%20to%20 Install.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m52/wingless-pics/Jeep/Dynamat%20Door%20Handle%20Cutout.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m52/wingless-pics/Jeep/Dynamat%20Door%20Handle%20Mounted.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m52/wingless-pics/Jeep/Dynamat%20Drivers%20Door%20Complete.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m52/wingless-pics/Jeep/Door%20Card%20Rear.jpg

Jeffdachef
09-18-2016, 07:41 AM
Way to. Revive a dead thread. Keep hope alive already made the ultimate guide to sound deadening in his build log thats way more extensive than anything else mentioned on this thread.

wingless
09-18-2016, 10:07 AM
Keep hope alive already made the ultimate guide to sound deadening in his build log thats way more extensive than anything else mentioned on this thread. Could a link to the Ultimate Guide Build Log please be provided?

Jeffdachef
09-18-2016, 10:41 AM
Could a link to the Ultimate Guide Build Log please be provided?

you are in luck, there's two

here's his older one

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html

Here's a recent one.
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive.html

Its not just deadening, its an overall acoustical treatment as well. Using deadener to cover holes doesnt work anywhere near as well as MLV or sheet metal or other ridgid substances with actual heavy mass, I witness the difference live. Mainly because deadener is not a solid stiff material, its still a mound of butyl with a thin layer of aluminium. With midbass notes, it will cause it to flex and vibrate which really dramatically decreases midbass potentiial vs solid hard mass like Mass loaded vinyl, aluminium sheet metal or even wood(not a good idea in wet doors though)

Also the issue of of door panel rattle as well which needs some major decoupling with closed cell foam. so when you play very strong midbass notes, you dont get any resonances, or miniscule rattles. Deadener does not help eliminate these issues, they might slightly alleviate but they will be prevalent with strong drivers on high power. Especially where the panel clips are sometimes as well

The issue of the rear wave needs to be addressed as well as making a proper seal between the plastic door panel and the mounted speaker.

Here's also a video as well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3EXuHlBy4M



Also It might be a different story if you are using competition level deadener like this to cover the holes. This vibraflex deadener stiffens up real well after application so its not just deadening but also provides flex control and extra damping.

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj631/nkrell11/IMG_20150527_134109777_HDR_zpsxtgdaa42.jpg (http://s1271.photobucket.com/user/nkrell11/media/IMG_20150527_134109777_HDR_zpsxtgdaa42.jpg.html)

wingless
09-18-2016, 12:06 PM
Thanks for the links.

That OP did an excellent job on: the write-up; the craftsmanship; the analysis and updating until the desired results are obtained.

The two areas that detract (for me) are: using solder instead of the proper crimp tool and significantly increasing the vehicle mass. My tool set includes proper crimp tools from 30 AWG to 4/0 cables. The vehicle dynamics will suffer, but that is obviously not the highest priority.

JohnKuthe
09-18-2016, 01:36 PM
Yep, thanks! All good information. My auto audio installer guy has pretty much limited what he's gonna do for me as sticking Dynamat everywhere possible and I guess that's as good as I'll get by picking a auto audio installer guy off Craigslist. Oh well, better than NO auto audio installer guy! I WAS gonna do it all myself, but I just don't have the time or experience to do it all like I'd like! And yeah I saw that Youtube before, very thorough and good.

John Kuthe...