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View Full Version : Buying a component set piece by piece.



derek33
03-15-2005, 07:33 AM
Unless i buy a new sub, i have around 300 for a new component set. I have two mtx 8302 amps that are available for use for these components, but i dont need to use both. they put out 120 watts at 4 ohm x 2.

I was thinking of a koda 8 or 6 as the midwoofer, what do you guys recomend for the cross overs and the tweets? I want most bass out of these components since i wont be running a woofer.

thanks

Naxis2k1
03-15-2005, 08:33 AM
Unless i buy a new sub, i have around 300 for a new component set. I have two mtx 8302 amps that are available for use for these components, but i dont need to use both. they put out 120 watts at 4 ohm x 2.

I was thinking of a koda 8 or 6 as the midwoofer, what do you guys recomend for the cross overs and the tweets? I want most bass out of these components since i wont be running a woofer.

thanks

you could use both amplifers to run a active setup....

squeak9798
03-15-2005, 09:10 AM
you could use both amplifers to run a active setup....


x2

Coustic XM6 is pretty great for the price.

squeak9798
03-15-2005, 11:31 AM
Also, just wanted to point out that the Koda 8 wouldn't be a great option for a 2-way set, as it is rather limited in top end extension. I'd only go with the Koda 8 if you were doing horns aswell, or a 3-way set with a dedicated midrange. Cause the Koda 8 doesn't play high enough to mate with a tweeter.

derek33
03-15-2005, 03:51 PM
whats an active setup?

and i could just go for a koda 6.

analogkid
03-15-2005, 04:21 PM
active is using a x-over and sending only the signal you want to the amp. then only that frequency range will be amplified and sent out. ex: you can use 1 amp to run tweets and 1 for mids. its great stuff because you can tweek everything to be so clean sounding.

DFW40
03-15-2005, 04:25 PM
x2

Coustic XM6 is pretty great for the price.

You mention Coustic every now and then, do you have a connection with them or do you just like their equipment. My first two crossovers and amps were Coustic, tear.

squeak9798
03-15-2005, 04:35 PM
You mention Coustic every now and then, do you have a connection with them or do you just like their equipment. My first two crossovers and amps were Coustic, tear.


LOL...no. I have "some" of their gear from the mid-90's (Design Reference series; their high end line from back in the day).

It's just that for a good affordable active crossover, their XM6 is pretty hard to beat. You can find them on egay BNIB w/ warranty (from thestereodirect, the Mitek authorized clearing house) for around 100 shipped.

squeak9798
03-15-2005, 04:36 PM
and i could just go for a koda 6.

Unless you are doing a 3-way, I'd definitely recommend it.

derek33
03-15-2005, 07:00 PM
i dont have enough money for a 3way, and i cant use kickpanels cause i realized my foot goes right where the kick panel would be. just my comfort.

my amps put out 120 at 4 ohm, is that too much for just tweeters?

can anyone provide links to the products they recomend.
the only think im set on so far is a koda 6 mid, i need tweets and comps, unless there is a package deal thats better then what i would be looking at. anything you guys recomend will be considered

thanks again,
derek

derek33
03-15-2005, 08:48 PM
edit:

I think my best bet is buying a kit. For the kit i have around 150 bucks, what would you suggest?

thanks again

derek33
03-16-2005, 09:58 AM
opinions on this 3way system?

http://carsound.com/articles/publish/printer_16.shtml

how much do they cost?

squeak9798
03-16-2005, 10:00 AM
opinions on this 3way system?

http://carsound.com/articles/publish/printer_16.shtml

how much do they cost?


Excellent excellent speakers. However, they'll run ya about $800 or so ;)


For $150 or less, look into the OZ Vector series and some lower line DLS from Tplaya07. Focal Access and Rainbow Soundlines should also be in that price range. The RE RE comps are close to being in that price range.

derek33
03-16-2005, 10:11 AM
I forgot about RE

Ill look into those.

also, is 2 layers of dynamat on each door enough to stop all vibrations i will get in my doors and prevent my music from being heard outside.

squeak9798
03-16-2005, 10:34 AM
I forgot about RE

Ill look into those.

also, is 2 layers of dynamat on each door enough to stop all vibrations i will get in my doors and prevent my music from being heard outside.


It should stop most vibrations. The music will likely still be able to be heard outside the vehicle.

You can add some acoustical foam like ensolite (http://www.raamaudio.com/products.htm) that will actually act to absorb soundwaves. Also, if installing the speakers in your door, you'll need to use the deadener to completely seal the door (to isolate the speakers front wave from it's rearwave). A single layer over the inner metal door frame to cover any holes should be good (if you haven't done it already)

derek33
03-16-2005, 07:09 PM
as for RE comps... i see they cost 165, pretty nice. how many watts do they handle?

for the xxx... how much do they cost and is that just for midwoofers? if they are cheap enough i could run the re comps and xxx mids. unless the xxx is a whole set.

thanks

squeak9798
03-17-2005, 09:50 AM
as for RE comps... i see they cost 165, pretty nice. how many watts do they handle?

50 or 75w I believe is their RMS rating. How much they'll actually handle is setup dependent.


for the xxx... how much do they cost and is that just for midwoofers? if they are cheap enough i could run the re comps and xxx mids. unless the xxx is a whole set.

The XXX6.5 comes only as a mid, not as a full component set. FYI, you can not run the XXX6.5 mid on the crossover for the RE RE comp set, if that's whay you were thinkin'

derek33
03-17-2005, 09:55 AM
I think ive come to a conclusion to get these:


http://www.thezeb.com/p-CDT-Audio-C...stem-101083.htm

and two dynamat door kits from that website to double layer my two front doors.

run one amp for mids, one amp for tweets.

everything sound ok?

squeak9798
03-17-2005, 09:57 AM
1) Linky no worky

2) Don't waste your money on the Dynamat kits. For about the same price, you could get 62.5sqft of Raammat: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=67760&item=5760607605&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

3) Is that comp set bi-ampable?

derek33
03-17-2005, 07:16 PM
heres the link.

ill check to see if their bi ampable in a sec.

derek33
03-17-2005, 07:18 PM
it doesnt say

squeak9798
03-17-2005, 08:28 PM
Should be bi-ampable, going by that picture. Looks like it has two inputs.

derek33
03-17-2005, 08:43 PM
[imputs] what are you looking at? the x-overs?

also, wouldnt running an active setup put 120w into the mids 120w into the tweets, isnt that alot?

thanks again for your help, squeak. youve been great.

edit, how many sq ft of deadener(sp) do i need for 1 layer for 1 door? roughly.
( its a jeep grand cherokee so they are kinda on the big side.)

squeak9798
03-18-2005, 10:01 AM
[imputs] what are you looking at? the x-overs?

Yeah....and I just realized I was wrong :wacky: They are not bi-ampable via the crossover....I forgot CDT has that stupid Imaging tweeter spot on the xover.

You could still run them active if you wanted though....just ditch the passive xover.


also, wouldnt running an active setup put 120w into the mids 120w into the tweets, isnt that alot?

But remember.....even if you only used 1 amp (rated 120w x 2 @ 4ohm), and ran the comp set using the passive xovers; each tweeter and each mid would still be receiving 120w, since the passive crossover distributes the frequencies, it doesn't split the power ;)


edit, how many sq ft of deadener(sp) do i need for 1 layer for 1 door? roughly.
( its a jeep grand cherokee so they are kinda on the big side.)

Quick way to find out is to take some rough measurements :crazy: I'd just take rough measurements of your door, then add probably 1 extra foot to each measurement (just to allow for some overages).

derek33
03-18-2005, 04:00 PM
when you say "ditch the passive x-over", does that mean to buy new x-overs?

it seems like a waste to me to buy this set just to replace the x-overs. are there any comp sets similar to this, or better, around the same price that i can run an active setup?

thanks again

squeak9798
03-18-2005, 04:17 PM
when you say "ditch the passive x-over", does that mean to buy new x-overs?

it seems like a waste to me to buy this set just to replace the x-overs. are there any comp sets similar to this, or better, around the same price that i can run an active setup?

thanks again

Well...apparently either I don't understand fully what you wish to do, or you don't fully understand what an active setup is.

When running an active setup, you are using an external electronic crossover of some sort (be it a whole different piece of equipment, or using the crossovers built into the headunit) to create the crossover points for the speakers. So, you'd use the active crossover to highpass the tweeters, and bandpass (highpass and lowpass) the mids. In a setup like this, an active crossover setup, there are no passives used.

This is where the confusion apparently is :) You say you want to run active, which would entail not using any passive crossovers.....hence the reason I said you could ditch the passive crossover and run them in an active setup like you have mentioned you wish to do a few times now.

derek33
03-18-2005, 04:25 PM
oh, i thought active meant putting the cross overs before the amp so only those frequencies are amplified.

squeak9798
03-18-2005, 04:35 PM
oh, i thought active meant putting the cross overs before the amp so only those frequencies are amplified.


Well, in an active setup the active crossover does come before the amp. But, you can't just put the passives before the amp and call it a day....that won't work (even if it did, it would be pretty much not worth doing). You need either an active crossover or a HU that has adequate crossovers built in. And an active setup totally eliminates the need for the passives.

<----Hey, look, 7,777 :p:

derek33
03-18-2005, 04:45 PM
oh i see, you use your headunit as a x-over. Mines a pretty cheap kenwood, and i dont think it will do a sufficient job.

I will probably just run the comps regular way, and just use one of my amps. i could probably sell the other.

gundecker
03-18-2005, 04:55 PM
I have a question. I was thinking about running an active setup but here's where the confusion comes into play. Ok...let's say I have a set of Mb Quart QSD 213's. I ditch the passive x-overs. Now...how would I power the tweets? I know I'd run wires from the radio harness to my amp to power the midbass speakers. But how do I go about powering the tweets?? And what about RCA's?

gundecker
03-18-2005, 04:56 PM
Also, would I be able to power one pair of comp speakers in active setup using a JL Audio 300/4?

squeak9798
03-18-2005, 06:51 PM
I have a question. I was thinking about running an active setup but here's where the confusion comes into play. Ok...let's say I have a set of Mb Quart QSD 213's. I ditch the passive x-overs. Now...how would I power the tweets? I know I'd run wires from the radio harness to my amp to power the midbass speakers. But how do I go about powering the tweets?? And what about RCA's?


Ok, here's the deal. To run an active setup, you need one amplifier channel per speaker. So, to run a 2-way set actively (i.e. one tweeter and one mid per side), you'd need a total of 4 amplifier channels (since there would be 4 speakers). You also would need either 1) an external active xover (like the Coustic XM6, for example), or 2) a headunit that has adequate built in crossover (like the Pioneer DEH-P860MP, Alpine 9833/9835, Eclipse 8443/8454/8053, etc etc).

If you are running an external active xover, you would then run one set of RCA's into the active xover from the HU's RCA outputs, then run the outputs from the active xover to their respective amplifier RCA inputs (i.e. the highpass outputs would go to the RCA inputs on the amplifier for the channels for the tweeter, and the bandpass output would go to the midbass's input on the amp). You then simply connect each speaker to the appropriate channel (i.e. the tweeters on the channels with the highpassed input signal, the mid's on the channels with the bandpassed input signal) and you're all set to start adjusting the xover points on the active xover and play your system.

If you are using the HU's internal crossover, then you would run the appropriate RCA outputs from the HU directly to the appropriate inputs on the amplifer (again, highpass RCA outputs to the RCA inputs for the tweeter, and bandpassed RCA outputs to the RCA inputs for the mids). Again connect each speaker to the appropriate channel (i.e. the tweeters on the channels with the highpassed input signal, the mid's on the channels with the bandpassed input signal) and you're all set to start adjusting the xover points on the active xover and play your system.

So, as you can see, each speaker is powered directly from the amp, on their own dedicated channel.

However, I would caution you to not try this if you are a novice. It is very easy to set the xover point inappropriately and either 1) actually damage a speaker, or 2) get results that would actually be worse than if you had just used the passives. You need to really understand how a system should sound, as well as be able to point out the problems areas and what needs to be done to correct those problem areas.

And, for a simple 2-way setup, you can use any 4-channel that has an input for each individual channel (i.e. the amp needs to have 4 inputs)

gundecker
03-18-2005, 07:28 PM
So I'd be running speaker wire directly to each speaker and tweeter, right? Also, can I use some like the Audio Control DQT instead of a crossover?

squeak9798
03-18-2005, 10:15 PM
So I'd be running speaker wire directly to each speaker and tweeter, right?

Yes, directly from the amp to the speakers.


Also, can I use some like the Audio Control DQT instead of a crossover?

No. Equalizers (like the DQT) and crossovers serve two totally, totally different functions.