PDA

View Full Version : Wet Sanding And Painting



djXternal
01-06-2005, 01:14 PM
Ok guys, I'm getting ready to start my fiberglass enclosure and have been looking around here and been reading alot about wet sanding...

What is wet sanding, whats it used for, and how do i do it...

Also what is the best way to get a mirror-like finish on a fiberglass structure... Whats the best paint to use and what are the best ways to apply it


thanks for the help in advance

packerfan
01-06-2005, 01:22 PM
www.google.com

MisterE
01-06-2005, 02:29 PM
wetsanding is after you lay on a coat of paint and want to get rid of the orangepeel look. i just finished a box with spraypaint and i didnt wetsand, its still shiny but a tiny bit distorted due to the orangepeel. once before i made a box using brush on paint and wetsanded it after i was done with the layers of paint, using plenty of water and around 800 grit sandpaper. hope that helps a little.

req
01-06-2005, 03:44 PM
this is how you *should* go about doing this.

do all your glassing, now you are ready for paint. sand the entire thing down so thers no burrs or any huge lumps\airbubbles anywhere (an angle grinder works great here).

now, take some bodyfiller or kittyhair and mix it up and lay it over your ENTIRE box, fill in all nooks and crannies, if you are using regular bodyfiller, do thinner layers at a time, do not go over 1\4" thick.

as this dries, it will turn to a hard\clay consistancy, if you got one, use a bodyfiller cutter (looks like a cheese grater) to get rid of any high spots or weird lumps just like you would do with a regular cheese grater.

then, wait until the bodyfiller completly hardens, and with 80~120 grit sandpaper (sorta rough) sand out the entire surface. (repeat this whole process on patches if its too low, and sand down anything that looks lumpy)

once it looks good, apply a skimcoat (thinned bodyfiller, you can buy this stuff, or you can just mix in a little acetone to your resin\mkep mixture and it turns into a toothpaste thickness, maybe thinner. smear this over the WHOLE THING. wait till dry.

sand this down with 200 grit or so till its smooth. then take some high-build primer, and spray speckles from a distance (only a light dusting) look at it from all angles, and make sure there are no low spots\high spots (this step is optional, but it helps you to see if everything is sanded well)

spray the entire box with a coat of the high-build primer, and wait till dry. proceed to WETSAND the primer with some really high-grit wet sandable paper (using water while you sand acts as a lubricant and smooths it out quite nice)

i would prolly do this one more time.

then do the exact same procedure with your paint, you better be sure that your box is smoother than your ***, cuz after the paint, you will see if it is or not.

the last coat - wetsand with the HIGHEST GRIT paper you got.

now do a clearcoat or 2 with the wetsanding in between.

SEM is a good brand of paint and clearcolor. ive been recommended by tim at hzemall (the guy who does the installs) (http://www.hzemall.com) to paint with this brand.

ive read numerous articles on painting, but i have yet to do it. if anyone feels that there is a step im missing, feel free to correct me.

and your all done. painting a good paintjob is ALOT of work, this is why painting cars cost so much money if you get it done right.

djXternal
01-06-2005, 04:18 PM
Wow thanks alot for that write up its gonna help me alot

packerfan
01-06-2005, 07:04 PM
Req kind of forgot a HUGE step in wetsanding;)

After your done wet sanding go out and buy a good buffer or just use your hands and buy meguires 3 step car wax and polish. Its something like, paint cleaner, polish and carnuba wax. Read the directions, the paint cleaner will get rid of the larger sanding lines from the wet sanding and smaller ones too.

BDIDDY
01-06-2005, 07:12 PM
this is how you *should* go about doing this.

do all your glassing, now you are ready for paint. sand the entire thing down so thers no burrs or any huge lumps\airbubbles anywhere (an angle grinder works great here).

now, take some bodyfiller or kittyhair and mix it up and lay it over your ENTIRE box, fill in all nooks and crannies, if you are using regular bodyfiller, do thinner layers at a time, do not go over 1\4" thick.

as this dries, it will turn to a hard\clay consistancy, if you got one, use a bodyfiller cutter (looks like a cheese grater) to get rid of any high spots or weird lumps just like you would do with a regular cheese grater.

then, wait until the bodyfiller completly hardens, and with 80~120 grit sandpaper (sorta rough) sand out the entire surface. (repeat this whole process on patches if its too low, and sand down anything that looks lumpy)

once it looks good, apply a skimcoat (thinned bodyfiller, you can buy this stuff, or you can just mix in a little acetone to your resin\mkep mixture and it turns into a toothpaste thickness, maybe thinner. smear this over the WHOLE THING. wait till dry.

sand this down with 200 grit or so till its smooth. then take some high-build primer, and spray speckles from a distance (only a light dusting) look at it from all angles, and make sure there are no low spots\high spots (this step is optional, but it helps you to see if everything is sanded well)
spray the entire box with a coat of the high-build primer, and wait till dry. proceed to WETSAND the primer with some really high-grit wet sandable paper (using water while you sand acts as a lubricant and smooths it out quite nice)

i would prolly do this one more time.

then do the exact same procedure with your paint, you better be sure that your box is smoother than your ***, cuz after the paint, you will see if it is or not.

the last coat - wetsand with the HIGHEST GRIT paper you got.

now do a clearcoat or 2 with the wetsanding in between.

SEM is a good brand of paint and clearcolor. ive been recommended by tim at hzemall (the guy who does the installs) (http://www.hzemall.com) to paint with this brand.

ive read numerous articles on painting, but i have yet to do it. if anyone feels that there is a step im missing, feel free to correct me.

and your all done. painting a good paintjob is ALOT of work, this is why painting cars cost so much money if you get it done right.


You could do that with a light dusting of black spraypaint, then block it our sand it out with 400 or so. Once you start sanding look for any spots where the black is sanded out quicker than the surrounding area, this is a high spot. If you have paint left is a area and the paint is gone around the surrounding area, this is a low spot....

Sikkens, Dupont, House of Kolor are some good base coats

HB Body- just about the only clear I know that's worth anything because that is what is on my car.

After the clear is laid out and flashed hit it with some 1000-1200 wet or dry, then buff it out with some rubbing compound. You could even do the 1000 then go up higher like 2000.


Have fun

Insomniac119
01-06-2005, 07:53 PM
what is kittyhair?

djXternal
01-06-2005, 07:58 PM
kittyhair is fiberglass reinforced bondo...

ok so the waxing goes after every wet sand, or just the last wet sand?

also where can i get some high build primer... i cant find newhere around here

BDIDDY
01-06-2005, 08:28 PM
Last wet sanding....

djXternal
01-06-2005, 08:30 PM
alright thanks

packerfan
01-06-2005, 11:21 PM
Last wet sanding....
Yes, DONT do it inbetween layers because they your gonna **** the hole project up because the paint wont stick to it.

req
01-06-2005, 11:38 PM
yea. ill use it for my website someday. no problem.

thanks for clearing that part up mang, its hard to explain :)

and yea, the last step is the 'cutting' of the paint. i didnt wanna get into that part, because i have not read enough about it. basically you use some abrasive wax-type material and it buffs out the last coat of clear and the last wetsand.

after you get done with this process (wich will take you way longer than you expect) your paintjob should last forever. :D

jellyfish420
01-06-2005, 11:45 PM
i do my final wet sand with no less than 2000grit. it will make the buffing easier, and it will turn out smoother in the end.

req
01-07-2005, 12:31 AM
i 2nd that ^^^

BDIDDY
01-07-2005, 08:26 AM
I would definately get a grinder, becuase if you buy one of those cheap buffers at wal mart they don't help much. I started using a grinder and it cuts it alot easier. Just go to your local paint shop and they can explain all that you need to buff it out, there are alot of products out there but they should know what you need...

Insomniac119
01-08-2005, 06:56 PM
would those one's you attach to your drill work well?

djXternal
01-09-2005, 01:17 AM
well i already own a decent buffer so ill try that out first

EDIT:

Oh yea and where can i get high build primer at?

BDIDDY
01-09-2005, 07:27 PM
Any autobody store...