View Full Version : Attaching PVC to MDF

11-01-2004, 06:48 PM
I have my ports in, I caulked the hell out of them, using it as a glue. What else can I do to secure them to the box? They sit in each corner of the box, touching 2 sides of the walls, see the attachment. Thanks.

11-01-2004, 08:39 PM
screw the PVC into the MDF lol. i dont know what else you could do... also try titanium silicon.

11-01-2004, 08:53 PM
Two words - Gorilla Glue.

11-01-2004, 08:56 PM
**** there is alot. Black silicone, first what i do not why do u guys make the holes so big.

11-02-2004, 12:40 AM
Bigger holes = less air resistance. Gorilla Glue sounds good, but I checked this about 30 minutes ago, they aren't going anywhere. If they give ANY after the caulk fully cures, I'll gorilla glue them.

The wait to try my 15"s in a ported box is killing me.

11-02-2004, 01:49 AM
I'd jus use liquid nails...

11-02-2004, 12:05 PM
no, what i meant was why do u make the holes so big when u use the jigsaw.

11-02-2004, 12:11 PM
I'd jus use liquid nails...

thats all i did with my girlfriends box, and its hanging fine.

i made the hole extra small, then sanded it down till i could barely fit the PVC in the hole. nice and snug.

sounds great and is working fine.

11-02-2004, 03:37 PM
thats what I did, cept with clear silicon too.

11-02-2004, 04:18 PM
no, what i meant was why do u make the holes so big when u use the jigsaw.
Didn't use a jigsaw. Used a drill with a special bit for making in-home PVC holes, so it was about 1/16 inch too big.

But, here's the update!

**** hell **** **** and other such expletives! This setup *****. The thing is half as loud as before, bass boost sounds like ****, and it's generally a very unpleasant bass! Oh, what to do.

I went to a local dealer. He brought up the specs for the sub. It want 10.5 cubes PER SUB to be ported. My entire trunk my be 10 cubes. Gah. They also want 5 something per sub sealed. Well, ****. I'm going to lose the ports and polyfill the sucker.

[documentation mode]
To "properly" (heh!) close off the port holes, I used a combination of black fleece cloth, MDF, Caulk, sheet metal, and screws. I first covered a piece of MDF cut to fit in the hole with fleece covered in caulk, then I shoved the entire thing into the port hole. To be sure that this would go anywhere, I cut pieces of sheet metal, and screwed them onto the box and the plug. If I can get a digital camera, I'll take pictures.

11-03-2004, 09:28 PM
epoxy works wonders, fills gaps and strong as ****

11-04-2004, 11:24 AM
what the hell sub do you have that requires 10.5 cubes???? unless you are going for a strict SPL set up i wouldnt do more then like 4 or 5 cubes ported.

11-04-2004, 11:27 AM
actually homie imma show you waht this says right here

^^ your sub correct ^^?

if it is here look at the specs...

15" 700 Watt Subwoofer
• 700 watts power handling
• 80 oz. magnet
• 2” kapton voice coil
• Dual 4 ohm voice coil
• Chrome plated basket
• Polypropylene cone
• Chrome front & back plate
• Foam rubber slant surround
• Black spider
• Chrome push terminals
• SPL 93 dB
• Sealed box: 2.5 cu. ft.[B]
• [B]Ported box: 4.25 cu. ft.
• Tuning: 29 Hz
• Port size: 3” (dia) x 3.2” (length)
• # of ports: 1

so i dont know if that guy gave you the total cubic feet and you just thought he said per sub or what. but 4.25 @ 29 hz sounds not too shabby. holla.

11-04-2004, 07:16 PM
I'd seen most of the specs, a lot of those are new to me. Not bad for a 70 dollar 15" sub. The price has dropped (http://www.thezeb.com/p-SPL-ELF-15-15-inch-Subwoofer-104240.htm) significantly since I bought them.

As usual, the local shop was hella off. Some computer program they had with fancy charts and all that.

Anyway, the box is HISTORY. I seriously don't think I can repair it anymore. It's a cheap prefab, and the rest of my cheap equipment is blowing the thing apart. I'm going to get some MDF when I get the chance and just build a new box.