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dkguitarist
10-28-2004, 10:58 PM
i was wondering if anyone could give me advice on how to get the most power out of my amp to push my 2 L7's. i have this rockford amp http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/ez2rockford/ModelInfo/ModelInfo.asp?ItemKey=10063519&CategoryDesc=Punch%20Amplifiers and i have 2 12" dvc 4ohm L7's wired parellel. each sub is wired to it's own channel. i was wondering how to set my amp or if there's a better way to wire my subs to the amp to get more power or if i should juzt use the gain setting tutorial to set my amp correctly?? any advice i can get would be great. (which the L7's can handle 750 rms as everyone knows). thanks!

thugpassion
10-28-2004, 11:24 PM
Are you sure thats the right link, that amp is only 200w. Your really pushing that amp and only giving each L7 capable of handling 750rms+, as you stated, 100w! If thats the amp your really running i would say should really invest in a more powerful amp.

If you've got the money check out a kicker 1200.1. If your on a tight budget this amp would be perfect http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?icatid=305&stk_code=powa3000db&svbname=30. Its rated at 1800rms @ 2ohms and thats probly 14.4v so at 12v it would be exactly 750rms to each sub.

If youre set on using this amp then I would say to use the gain tutorial to get the max out of that amp.

dkguitarist
10-28-2004, 11:28 PM
well i originally pulled all this out of my 92 s-10. originally had a jvc hu and a sony 1000w 2 channel amp. got stolen. so i replaced it with this kenwood hu i have in the car now and this rockford amp. also had a rockford punch p1 in a truck box. so everything was pulled out of my truck. i planned on getting more powerful amplifier eventually. but have 2 huge tickets i gotta pay off before i can even think about getting another amp. but thanks for your help. also. juzt out of curiosity how would you bridge these 2 subs to a mono block amp? cuz u have the wires coming out of the terminals on the back of the box, so would you juzt stuff both positive wires in the positve terminal and both negative in the negative terminal or is there a better way??

jtomsic
10-28-2004, 11:30 PM
good god man get a different amp your waisting those subs, if ur not gonna power them right and they are dual 2 ohms sell them to me. u spent all that money on L7s and are powering them with the same power i power my components with.

dkguitarist
10-28-2004, 11:35 PM
well actually they're dvc 4ohms. i got them cuz i planned on getting a better system. i planned on getting a more powerful amp. might use my friend's amp which is "rated" at 1600w max (i highly doubt it, but probly more than this one.) anyways, so back to my question: juzt out of curiosity how would you bridge these 2 subs to a mono block amp? cuz u have the wires coming out of the terminals on the back of the box, so would you juzt stuff both positive wires in the positve terminal and both negative in the negative terminal or is there a better way??

thugpassion
10-29-2004, 02:22 PM
I dont know of a better way because you want to wire your subs at 2ohms (forget wether thats series or parallel) to get the most out of a 1ohm stable monoblock and using connecters crimped on the speaker wires connect both (+) and both (-) to the corresponding terminals.

BTW you might actually be hurting those L7s because their min. power is 75w and 'assuming' that amp's ratings are at 14.4v your only giving each sub about 83 overrated watts! just something to think about because I heard you CAN blow your subs by underpowering them!

tRiGgEr
10-29-2004, 02:27 PM
When looking at car audio ignore the MAX rating and pay attention to the RMS.

Max means nothing.

If one of your buddys say I have a 2000 watt amp. BS ask the RMS rating that is it's true power.

Just a little info for ya.

dkguitarist
10-29-2004, 03:59 PM
i know for CERTAIN the amp wouldn't even put out a max of 1600. it's a little cuspid 1600w 4 channel amp i believe. i've only looked at it once. i can't remember seeing an rms rating on the amp but i kno it's WAY overrated juzt cuz it's an off-brand. but when you have a couple of $370 tickets for an accident you caused, it's kinda hard to come up with the money right off hand for a new amplifer....i MIGHT be able to come up with the money in 3-4 weeks after paying off my tickets. but who knows...my friend's amp might be more rms power than my fosgate anyways, so i'll probly temporarily use it til i can get around to helping him install it in his car when i have time. i did all my own wiring. saved me probly over $200 in installation fees. (HU, amp, wiring, and subs). i also plan on getting some component speakers to upgrade the front speakers and get some 6x9's to replace the rear deck speakers (including the blown rear driver speaker). i have a lot more moeny i wanna put into this car but juzt gotta take it one step at a time...but my first step is getting that amp. then use my rf amp to power the components. hehe.

dkguitarist
10-29-2004, 10:42 PM
I dont know of a better way because you want to wire your subs at 2ohms (forget wether thats series or parallel) to get the most out of a 1ohm stable monoblock and using connecters crimped on the speaker wires connect both (+) and both (-) to the corresponding terminals.

i've never really seen a monoblock amp bridged to 2 amps before so i'm having a hard time picturing what kinda connector you'd crimp to the speaker wires. are you talking about sumthing like a spade crimp-on connector to slip into the amplifier's output terminals? or like a small ring terminal?

thugpassion
10-29-2004, 11:09 PM
Actually my neighbor has 2 P.O.S. Dauls bridged to a 300w monoblock but the wires are just screwed to the terminal and looks sloppy (since its two wires in one terminal) and circut city did it like that! I'm saying just crimp some plain old "horse shoe" type connectors that will screw to the terminal. It would be easier to get two connecters in one terminal than two twisted wires. sorry i dont have any pics of the type of connector im talking about but they're very common if i come across a pic i'll post a link since idk how to post pics

dkguitarist
10-29-2004, 11:44 PM
alright. well thanks. yeah i'd think that 2 wires stuffed into 1 terminal would look crappy as opposed to having a connector. that ***** that circuit city did it like that..personally for a cheap job i'd prefer best buy. but like i said i did my own install on this ford escort se. saved myself almost the cost of a new amplifer. but if you don't find one, i'm sure some audio store could tell me or show me or something. but hopefully i'll get that new amp in about 2-3 weeks. hehe. i can't wait to see what these L7's can REALLY do...>.<

thugpassion
10-30-2004, 12:35 AM
I'm fallin asleep here but heres a link. The connectors im talking about are circled; these are actually 4guauge but you get the picture, just standard connectors; like ring connecters but open in the front.

And like you I also did all of my own installing to save a good chunk of change. My one L7 sounds pretty d*a*m*n* nice plus i'm only giving it about 600rms and not even done tuning everything (rattles, sound deadner). Once you get a good amp your gonna need a respatory machine to keep your chest from caving in!

WoW im so tired i forgot to actually put the link in...
http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/80c77bb3_m40b8b5cf/e307/__sr_/b0d4.jpg?phLtxgBBZKx3BQMb

dkguitarist
10-30-2004, 01:20 AM
i appreciate your efforts alot. but that link's not working for me...says i don't have permission to access the site. yeah i also gotta dynamite the trunk and all that jazz for sound deadening. rattles like a mofo right now juzt with what it's being pushed with. also have buzzing from blown rear deck speaker and i think my deck actually rattles with all the bass too....might juzt be the speaker resonance...oh well..maybe i'll disconnect it when i get un-lazy..(yes i kno it's ghetto..:-p). but yeah...if anyone else has any pics feel free to post away. but i think i kno what you're talking about. but i still have 3 or 4 weeks before i can get the amp. good thing i don't have to upgrade my wires again..that was a *****..cuz the one from my truck was too short. so i got a 4awg kit. last one was 8awg. gave it to my friend who i'll eventually help set up his system. so we'll see what happens.

dkguitarist
10-31-2004, 12:57 AM
ok so i've been looking around for car amplifiers to replace my rf punch amp. i've narrowed it down to a few so i think i'm good to go with that and juzt use my punch amp to power a set of component speakers. but my question is..should i go component speakers all the way around or juzt comps in the front and full-range in the rear or juzt comps in the rear and full-range in the front or what? i juzt wondered what the best way to go with that would be. btw my car is a 1998 ford escort se if that helps. thanks guys.

Sleeklsc
10-31-2004, 01:09 AM
get comps in the front..

the rear is up to you..some prefer it some say its pointless....i have mine just cause i have such a big car and my front stage aint the best....down the road i'd get a cheap pair of pioneers or sumtin...

what amp did you get for the l7's?

dkguitarist
10-31-2004, 01:12 AM
well i haven't gotten the amp yet. but i'm pretty set on either a hifonics bx1800d or a power acoustik a300db. i'm pretty sure either of those would really push those subs to their potential. >.< also i was thinking about possibly getting these comps: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2024.html#. are these any good or what would you personally recommend? my amp only pushes about 50w rms@4ohms. and i don't really wanna put up the money for little more powerful amp juzt yet. gonna wait and see how all this works out first. probly end up keepign this amp for the comps anyways.

Sleeklsc
10-31-2004, 01:20 AM
both of those amps will doo the job...thats if there stable at 1 ohm....good pickens...

dkguitarist
10-31-2004, 01:59 AM
well on the poweracoustik amp it says 1ohm stereo stable. but it doesn't really give the rating @1ohm. but i'm assuming it's around 1500 or so b/c it's 1800@2ohms and 1100@4ohms. still a good amp nonetheless. hehe. the hifonics is 1800x1@1ohm. so yes both are 1ohm stable. >.<

Sleeklsc
10-31-2004, 01:48 AM
you'd be fine either way...they are both very compareable...it would be hard to choose 1 or the other...hifonics tend to f uck up,,maybe cause they are more widly used......flip a coin...

dkguitarist
10-31-2004, 08:57 PM
ok so i was wondering, since i'm getting a high power amplifier for my 2 L7's, would i most likely need a cap for all that power or should i stay away from a cap period and do the big 3 instead? and currently i'm running 4awg power and ground cable and i'll need a disto block when i get another amp. so what kind of distro block would you guys recommend also (and i'm assuming i should get a fused block)? thanks for your input!

thugpassion
11-01-2004, 07:28 PM
Just from the short time i've been on this forum i'm guessing that the majority will tell you, "Ditch the cap, save the money, do the Big 3" since a cap is only a "band-aid" for power problems.

Don't know too much about distro blocks just yet but I would definately say spend the extra few dollars to get a fused one and running such a big amp you might have to run 0/1awg power back to the distro block, gotta check what the amp requires.

phrozen5100
11-01-2004, 07:57 PM
Yeah, forget about the cap. That's money a new battery, new wiring, new alt, hooker, etc. For your case, big 3 and larger battery would probably be the most cost effective.

dkguitarist
11-02-2004, 12:17 AM
what kind of battery would you recommend for my situation? i don't really know what the reputable brands are for car batteries esp larger batteries (or do you mean a deep cycle battery?) also i'm considering to eventually compete in car audio comps down the line so what would be the BEST (or recommended) sound deadener for the most spl possible for my car. not too expensive. and how much of it would i need per area (i.e. trunk area, doors, possibly floorpan and/or roof, firewall. the floorpan might take forever and a day to remove everything and then deaden it then replace the carpet and all the interior). thanks for any help.

thugpassion
11-02-2004, 02:10 AM
Your talking about serious time and a lot of money to deaden your entire car for SPL competition, i'm installing peel n seal in parts of my trunk 2morrow ($1/sqft). Plus deadening your ewntire car will add a good amount of weight, just the 25sqft i have weighs probly 15lbs.

For a Battery you'll definately want a deep cycle so that you can drain it to low voltage and not worry about shortening the life of it. Deep cycles arent too much more than regular batteries anyway. The biggest yellow top Optima you can fit in your battery tray will be your best option.