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View Full Version : TUTORIAL - How to Increase Mid Bass / Build Custom Speaker Adapters



mklett33
04-15-2014, 01:21 PM
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/Intro_zps703078c1.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/Intro_zps703078c1.jpg.html)

Hello and welcome to the How to Increase Mid Bass and Build Custom Speaker adapters Tutorial! Have you ever added new aftermarket speakers in a door or dash location only to be disappointed with the output in the mid bass region? Sure the higher frequencies sound great but it just seems like your mid bass is lacking in comparison to the factory speakers? This is a common problem that can be solved through the use of new custom speaker adapters and a few other tricks. In this thread you will learn how you can build custom speaker adapters using composite materials that will not only last forever, but through the addition of foam rings, sound amazing and increase the mid bass within the passenger compartment. Letís begin!

Here we have our average stock speaker bracket:

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140405_161309_zps21aacce6.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140405_161309_zps21aacce6.jpg.html)

The problem with this bracket is that it is simply not large enough to house our new component speaker. But there are some good design elements of it that we want to note and include in the making of our new bracket.

First off it is made of plastic. This is good because it will never decompose like wood. Itís also very strong and stable. This is good because we donít want to lose any acoustical energy with unnecessary flexing of the mounting baffle. We will want to make sure our new bracket is also made of composite materials.

Secondly it spaces the speakers away from the inside of the door. This is critical because it makes the speaker stay out of the way of the window mechanism within the door and also brings the speaker closer to the hole in the door panel where sound will pass through to the passenger compartment. We want to be sure we also space our speaker away from the door.

Finally there is a foam ring around the outside of the baffle. This helps to direct all of the sound from the front wave of the speaker through the grill mesh or hole in the factory door panel. If this ring is not there then the sound waves are free to bounce around within the door panel or dash which can lead to cancelation or unwanted vibrations within the panel itself. We will need to include a foam ring in order to direct the sound as desired.

Lets start fabricating! Please note that every step is outlined in full detail within the video at the end of this post. I took a few pictures just to give a rough overview of whats going on. The video is much better at showing the process.

I started with tracing out the stock adapter onto a piece of .25 thick ABS.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140405_161330_zpse2c6c7d1.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140405_161330_zpse2c6c7d1.jpg.html)

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140405_161338_zps87403d03.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140405_161338_zps87403d03.jpg.html)

mklett33
04-15-2014, 01:21 PM
I then rough cut this piece out using a jig saw and then used my router table to copy the piece perfectly using a flush trim bit:

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140405_161403_zps90479e8a.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140405_161403_zps90479e8a.jpg.html)

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140405_164816_zps0a23dc19.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140405_164816_zps0a23dc19.jpg.html)

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140405_164821_zps9169be09.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140405_164821_zps9169be09.jpg.html)

In order to space the speaker I am using .50Ē HDPE. I started with making a wooden circle template out of MDF, then transferred that to the HDPE, once again via the router table.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140406_125452_zps3c59a96d.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140406_125452_zps3c59a96d.jpg.html)

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140406_125905_zps3d1aec9e.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140406_125905_zps3d1aec9e.jpg.html)

I used that same template to cut out the same inner hole on the ABS.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140406_135850_zps42955fea.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140406_135850_zps42955fea.jpg.html)

In order to assemble everything I used CA glue to glue the HDPE to the ABS, then mounting hardware to secure the speaker to the HDPE. Be sure to predrill all holes to avoid cracking.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140406_151339_zps58f2ddf6.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140406_151339_zps58f2ddf6.jpg.html)

At this point we have made new adapters that not only fit our new speaker, but are made of composites and space the speaker away from the door. Now its time to add the foam rings. I found a supplier that makes the foam rings in multiple different sizes and that are pre cut with adhesive. These were super easy to apply, just peel and stick.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140406_152128_zpsdd3b6fa9.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140406_152128_zpsdd3b6fa9.jpg.html)

The foam kits also come with a piece for the back of the adapter that allow you to shield the speaker from any dripping water within the panel, and they isolate the adapter from the surface it bolts to.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140406_152153_zpse990328e.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140406_152153_zpse990328e.jpg.html)

mklett33
04-15-2014, 01:22 PM
Once bolted back in all you need to do is apply your factory panel and give them a listen! Do note that some applications will require modification of the foam, but in my case the foam bridged the gap between the speaker flange and the inside of the door panel perfectly.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/20140406_153642_zps42cc82be.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/caraudiofabrication/media/20140406_153642_zps42cc82be.jpg.html)



To see every step of this process in much more detail, watch here:

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o768/caraudiofabrication/Click_zpsf444d7a0.jpg (http://youtu.be/S7WKCFHGwRY)



I hope you enjoyed this thread! Let me know what you think, and if you do give this a try, be sure to take some pictures and share them with me here!

tylerj
04-15-2014, 06:15 PM
wow.


thank you sir :fro:

mklett33
04-15-2014, 10:06 PM
wow.


thank you sir :fro:

You are welcome, think you will give this a try?

I have to say this seriously livened up the sound, really made a big difference.

dragon123443
04-27-2014, 04:32 PM
I might try it out... where do you buy the foam at??

whitedragon551
04-27-2014, 04:51 PM
Is that foam closed cell foam? If it isnt then water will get through it and the additional foam on the back is completely useless other than for absorbing and containing moisture.

Falcons
04-27-2014, 05:38 PM
Lol that's weird,I literally just got done doing all this and I haven't even seen this post.the one thing i didn't do is add foam though.makes sense.