View Full Version : Door Treatment 4th Generation RAM

irish carbomb
03-30-2014, 01:39 PM
So, I've been reading through posts and my specific question is regarding a feature that seems unique to Chrysler vehicles. I want to make sure I do the proper door treatments to optimize the speakers. I will be getting Phoenix Gold Elite.65's. This will require an MDF adapter to mount them. I plan to decouple the adapter from speaker with closed cell foam. From there I'm a bit lost. After you remove the door trim on the "new" generation RAM trucks. The inner door "skin" that the speakers mount to are a large, solid, molded plastic piece. It fully encloses the door. It can be removed and is necessary to do if the window is broken. A good step by step "how to" is online for that purpose. Most talk on this forum about door treatment revolves around sealing up the door which is normally a metal structure with various access holes to the outer door skin. So, my questions are:

1) I would like to treat the outer door skin. Is it necessary to do this to improve the sound of the speaker? SDS website goes into great detail on CLD tiles for the multi step process of "sound deadening". That seems to be a entire process related to quiting the vehicle interior. Would the 25% coverage using CLD tiles work to improve the speaker output? Or, would it be sufficient to use a product like the Deflex Pad behind the speaker and move on?

2) What do I do next for treating the inner door skin that is all molded plastic? it is completely sealed except the one hole the speaker goes in. Should I just decouple it from the door trim using some closed cell foam in the large, flat, plastic areas? Then put some Thinsulate between the trim panel and that?

Sorry this is so long, but I can't find any other write ups on door treatment for these unique door features. PLEASE HELP?

03-30-2014, 10:57 PM
Deaden outer skin.
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a562/calebkhill/IMG_20131229_140428_zps50c5c0ca.jpg (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/calebkhill/media/IMG_20131229_140428_zps50c5c0ca.jpg.html)

Seal holes. (Don't use cardboard. Use waterproof material, something that won't be affected by water)
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a562/calebkhill/IMG_20131229_144829_zps18b7334c.jpg (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/calebkhill/media/IMG_20131229_144829_zps18b7334c.jpg.html)

Deaden inner skin
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a562/calebkhill/IMG_20131229_152335_zps65b47ed4.jpg (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/calebkhill/media/IMG_20131229_152335_zps65b47ed4.jpg.html)

Fiberglass insulation (optional)
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a562/calebkhill/IMG_20131229_152612_zps0dd9a233.jpg (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/calebkhill/media/IMG_20131229_152612_zps0dd9a233.jpg.html)

100% coverage highly recommended

03-30-2014, 11:52 PM
Don't use fiberglass insulation inside your doors. That stuff gets wet and then you'll have mold/mildew issues. Not to mention how itchy your car will make you.

irish carbomb
03-31-2014, 12:25 AM
Calebkhill/cande shop, I appreciate your input. I really have a unique issue. The inner door skin is sealed from factory. It's a solid piece of molded plastic. It's nothing like the door you posted pics of. I'm just curious if a different technique is suggested for this type of door? I don't see how the molded plastic would have the same resonance issues as a typical door with sheet metal framing?

03-31-2014, 06:24 AM
It wouldn't have the same issues.

Plastic panels have more problems with rattling against other panels they are touching. For this, use ccf between all contact points between the two panels.

About the insulation, if it's barred from water there will be no mold issues. In my doors from the pictures, the insulation is sealed from water. I have no issues with itchy.......