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ducatipaso
02-25-2014, 12:43 AM
I am about to start building a sound system for my 2001 Volvo C70 so I figured I would start a build log so that I can show the project as it progresses and when I am at points in the build were I need advice or suggestions I can post them and use the valuable feed back to improve the sound system I am building.

I have been toying with ideas for this build for months and now that the my automatic to manual trans swap is almost done {all that left is some wiring}, my hood scoop & spoiler are installed and a list of other mechanical stuff is done its time for me to turn my attention to the sound system.

Installing a adapter to play my IPOD thru the CD changer port and that made a huge difference in sound quality but I noticed a hollow spot in the mids. then a guy on a Volvo forum told me about a hidden EQ in the factory radio and a quick adjustment to the 200hz mid range cleared up the gap at 200hz, while messing with the EQ I turned up the 60hz bass adjustment.

The factory sound system sounds really good, it has a center channel, a 8 inch sub in each door, a 4inch mid in each door, some tweets on the dash and 2 6.5 mids in the rear seat area. plus the ability to put two 8 inch subs behind the back seat.

Like I said the sound system sounds really good, but the doors are vibrating & I hear muffled sounds mixed in with the music.

While doing a oil change and some other service work this week I am going to pull the door panels so that I can tint the window blue. While I have the door panels off I am going to be doing some sound dampening and try to tight up anything that is loose.

I've been trying to figure out how to rebuild the door panels so that I can bring the 8inch subs up to the surface and angle them and the 4 inch mids toward the drive and passenger.

I've also been playing with ideas for the center channel, right now it is a 5 1/4 or a 6.5 that is firing up at the windshield. Their is a ac & heat vent in the center of the dash and the speed junkie in me wants to put a boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge and air fuel ratio gauge in that opening and then have the ac & heat blow out on the sides of the gauges.

But their are other locations were I can put those gauges. The other day it occurred to me that I could rebuild the speaker grill for the center channel into a backward facing scoop like the cowl induction hood scoop in installed. then my ac & heat could blow up thru the speaker hole in the dash and then back towards the driver and passenger & out the opening of the scoop.

I was thinking about using the 3" by 10 1/2" opening in the dash where the vents were to put my center channel. The most the opening can be widened to / the widest trim panel possible is 4inchs.

So I am thinking, what if I put a 3 inch mini sub on each side of the opening, the subs I was looking at have a hz range of like 55 to 2000hz. Then I want to place a horn or tweeter between the 3 inch mini subs.

After looking on amazon and ebay the tweeter that looked like it would fit the best is a Pyle PDBT28 1-Inch Heavy Duty Titanium Super Tweeter. but do tweeter like that need an enclosure?

I am thinking that if I remove the top of the dash I could lay some fiberglass into the opening and make three small enclosures but if the tweet didn't need an enclosure then the back of it could be the baffle between the subs.

thank you everybody for your time and as the project progress I will post updates

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/FebC70transswaphoodscoopspolier3-transcaninpic_zps80144e40.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/FebC70transswaphoodscoopspolier3-transcaninpic_zps80144e40.jpg.html)
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/FebC70transswaphoodscoopspolier4_zpsc5690001.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/FebC70transswaphoodscoopspolier4_zpsc5690001.jpg.h tml)

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/plyetweeter_zps5de306f2.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/plyetweeter_zps5de306f2.jpg.html)

DB-Audio
02-25-2014, 07:55 PM
no offense but whats with the shoping cart spoiler? sound system wise first thing I would do is deaden the whole car are you looking for spl or more sql the tweeters do not need there own enclosure they are like any normal tweeter just more power you may need to build the doors out to fit them though

Side Show
02-25-2014, 11:39 PM
^^ this... do some more research befor buying items.

NeverEnuffBass
02-25-2014, 11:54 PM
I am about to start building a sound system for my 2001 Volvo C70 so I figured I would start a build log so that I can show the project as it progresses and when I am at points in the build were I need advice or suggestions I can post them and use the valuable feed back to improve the sound system I am building.

I have been toying with ideas for this build for months and now that the my automatic to manual trans swap is almost done {all that left is some wiring}, my hood scoop & spoiler are installed and a list of other mechanical stuff is done its time for me to turn my attention to

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/FebC70transswaphoodscoopspolier3-transcaninpic_zps80144e40.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/FebC70transswaphoodscoopspolier3-transcaninpic_zps80144e40.jpg.html)
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/FebC70transswaphoodscoopspolier4_zpsc5690001.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/FebC70transswaphoodscoopspolier4_zpsc5690001.jpg.h tml)

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/plyetweeter_zps5de306f2.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/plyetweeter_zps5de306f2.jpg.html)

:uhoh:

CaptainMaximus
02-26-2014, 12:08 AM
Hope the build goes nice, and I am having sound system convertible probs with my fiancÚ s car also. But, I have to laugh at that hood :laugh:

ducatipaso
02-26-2014, 11:35 PM
I removed the black wing-lets from the wing and noticed a difference in aerodynamics becasue the rear of my C70 turned easier and I felt less resistance at the steering wheel when changing lanes. I will make some wing-lets that match the contour / profile of the convertible top & the window molding.

I am really looking for more sound quality then out right spl. My plan is to mount the big tweeter in the dash & fire it back towards the driver and passenger with the mentioned mini subs on each side. I have some suspension and engine mods planned so I am going to ditch the pop-up roll bars behind the back seat and build a full cage.

Removing the pop-up roll bars will increase the size available for the rear sub enclosures - a set of 8's in the factory locations or any average size subs. The space to be gained is about 14" x 10" x 3.5" times 2 "one roll bar on each side". I am putting a great deal of thought into the design of my roll cage but one thing is clear, the front bars for the front hoop will be going down thru the tweeter holes in the dash.

So I want to recess a small tweeter at ear level in each bar & aim them at the driver and passengers ears but that is a year or so down the road.

As for sound damping I thought about factory sound damping sheets & dynamat and said to myself that is just a sheet of asphalt. Tar paper for a roof is like a sheet of asphalt and shingles, well shingles almost are a sheet of asphalt. So I went and purchased a pack of shingles, some thin pink foam isolation that was in a big roll and the to top it off some roofing cement. on the label it said trowel grade or trowel ready & it was the only roofing cement for vertical applications.

After I tint the windows on my C70 I will protect the fresh tint with some masking paper and then remove the doors and put them fender stands. my plan is to clean the inside of the doors with paint thinner and prep the surface really well. Then I have 3/4 of gallon of concert etch that I have left form when I used it to prep the gas tank of my Suzuki Bandit 1200 for a coat of tank sealer.

{just so you know} if the etch is poured on raw aluminum it will leave a deep dark gray coating / stain on the aluminum but anyway I will prep the doors with a coat of etch and let that dry after I wipe off the excess. Then I will do some calculating as to the curves & shapes of the insides of the doors, how to cut and position shingles and mask off everything I want to protect from the roofing cement.

Then I will brush over the shingles with a wire brush to remove any loose materiel and put them in the powder coating oven a phew at a time to warm them, {its 20 or 30 deg} then with rubber gloves and a spreader / trowel I will put a layer of the roofing cement on the inside of the doors. and then a very thin coat on the shingles and put them into position. I will do what ever looks best so their might be some over lap.

I think I will leave a inch or so space at the edges, then I will apply a even coat of roofing cement over the whole shingle covered area, then I will lay a double layer of the foam and stick it to the layer of roofing cement. I will let the doors sit for 24 or so hours on the fender stands to they are 180 degrees from their normal position so the cement can cure and seal.

I spent like $65 at Home Depot. The main thing that I am worried about is masking off everything I don't want to get the roofing cement on. The shingles & roofing cement will deaden & provide a degree of dampening. The foam will dampen and give the speakers sounds waves a softer cushion to absorbed into so they don't rebound & clash with the movement of the cone.

Side Show
02-27-2014, 12:09 AM
meh, big dreams for that car bud..... keep us posted with pics and vids :P

Staynlean
02-28-2014, 04:44 AM
[QUOTE=ducatipaso;8548871]I removed the black wing-lets from the wing and noticed a difference in aerodynamics becasue the rear of my C70 turned easier and I felt less resistance at the steering wheel when changing lanes.

Unless you were making these turns at 150+MPH NASCAR speeds, you are not going to notice any aerodynamic forces. They would be negligible, if that.

ducatipaso
02-28-2014, 01:13 PM
I will make sure to take pics, as for the aerodynamics I noticed a difference when I remove the wing-lets. I was looking at the rear wings on race Vipers, BMW and Ferrari's and the curve of the main area of the wing on some is very simpler to the curve on my wing - the structural difference is carbon fiber versus plastic.

When I looked at the wing-lets on those wings they used rectangles wing-lets. Some times a perfect rectangle and others had a rectangle with the top line curved to match the contour of the wing & then the rest a rectangle positioned vertical to the horizontal wing. So when I compared the wing-lets used on race cars to the ones that came on my wing, the ones that came with mine were wrong, I suppose they were ricer style - the manufacture thought they looked sweet but the taste when driving was.sour.

I purchased the wing as kind of a egg all rolled as a way to dip into the sauce and I figured I would spat out any parts I didn't like - particularly the side spates / wing-lets. With the general tso tapping I do when driving around town I noticed a difference in how the wing made the C70 feel and so I have some other aerodynamic mods planned.

The C70 is a European convertible so I won't make it look salty, I'll make it look hot like a pepper becasue my aerodynamics are at steak, I'll take pic's so you can peel the pages back like an onion.

butterMilk
03-02-2014, 02:36 AM
hahahah

ducatipaso
03-02-2014, 11:31 PM
Its been to cold for me to work on my C70 aside from bring in one of my headlights & marker lights to wrap them with blue transparent vinyl. After giving the a/c vent opening in the dash some more thought I think I am going to pass on installing a big tweet and 2 3inch mini subs. Three components would have looked crammed, instead I am just going to build a small box for two mini subs and then send them like 20 or 30 watts.

lnsomnia
03-02-2014, 11:57 PM
Good luck buddy. As Side Show said... you do have some pretty big goals for this volvo of yours. Don't take this the wrong way, but I REALLY recommend putting in a lot more research into everything you want to do before you actually 'do' it. I'm not talking about a day or two of reading up either. I suggest reading up tons of general car audio tutorials, enclosure design threads, wiring/electrical threads; just all around basic stuff. Even if it doesn't relate to you right now, it is always handy to be learning and you will more than likely need to know the information you don't need to know now, in the future. Regardless, you have a lot of studying up to do before you decide to rip your car apart.

fatboytyler
03-03-2014, 12:29 AM
Good luck buddy. As Side Show said... you do have some pretty big goals for this volvo of yours. Don't take this the wrong way, but I REALLY recommend putting in a lot more research into everything you want to do before you actually 'do' it. I'm not talking about a day or two of reading up either. I suggest reading up tons of general car audio tutorials, enclosure design threads, wiring/electrical threads; just all around basic stuff. Even if it doesn't relate to you right now, it is always handy to be learning and you will more than likely need to know the information you don't need to know now, in the future. Regardless, you have a lot of studying up to do before you decide to rip your car apart.

Couldnt agree more.


May I ask OP, what is the point in putting all the money into those gauges you mentioned? Theres no need whatsoever for them unless you're getting into high power motors and nascar-ish speeds. Unless of course you just enjoy looking at needles move.

ducatipaso
03-03-2014, 10:19 PM
Well as for the C70's gauges, the ones on my C70 are basic and the water temp gauge has no numbers. The turbocharged 5 cylinder engine in my Volvo can make 300hp reliably with the right mods. My C70 is a 190HP low pressure turbo & the high pressure model makes like 235 ish HP. So with some modes my C70 can make more power reliably and then I would need to keep track of the motor. A 300HP stick shift convertible with a system and some suspension mods would be a fun & quick street car.

Many people would use a air fuel ratio gauge but I was thinking about using a digital voltmeter gauge hooked to the O2 sensor as a air fuel ratio gauge because I am just kind of strange like that.

I went to the pawnshop today to pickup some tools I had on layaway and just look at the audio equipment { for the third or forth time now} out of curiosity I asked what the three subs sitting on a top shelf were and one of them was a 12" JL W3. It wasn't in a box but it was in very good condition.

The guy that was showing me the subs I've know for years and he has or had a GSXR. Just so that I could remember how a single JL 12 sounds he turned on their JL test sub that they use to test amps. its in a big vented box, then he hooked up a W3 in a small sealed box and kicker comp 12 in a small vented box. The subs were being powered by a Memphis amp.

The dude gave me a great price on the W3 but I wanted to think about it for a minute and went next door to the tool shop. While thinking about the sub I figured I might as well try to do a package deal and buy some amps. I've been eying some JL amps for awhile - they came for sale {out of pawn years ago when I was working their} a JL 500/1 & a JL 450/4v2.

When I looked at the audio equipment a second time I took my time and really looked at the amps, I asked about a price for the JL W3 and the JL amps and another package deal with two Polk MOMO carbon fiber series amps. a 500/1 & a 975watt four channel. The JL package was more then I wanted to spend so I went with the Polk MOMO amps and the JL W3

My plan is to run the 8"s in my doors and the 8"s behind & built into the rear seat off the four channel. and run the W3 off the 500/1. The factory sound system has a four channel 400watt alpine amp, and the subs in the doors are 8 ohm and so are the 4 inch mids so they are wired parallel thru the competent speaker cross overs.

Some how their is a center channel and two 6.5 on the sides behind the front seats. I don't know if the center channel is run off the head unit & I don't know were the tweets receive signal from yet? it might be form the cross over in the doors, I need to trace the wires.

So I am planning to run some quality 4 ohm 4" mids in the doors and then figure out how to run two mini subs in the a/c dash vent area and run some tweets in the dash. When I out-grow the factory dolby pro-logic hu and upgrade, I might replace the factory alpine amp because it doesn't have RCA's & has no adjustments.

I didn't plan on putting any audio equipment on layaway and I was really leaning towards a 15" sub but the 12" W3 & Polk amps are a big step forward in building my system.

slammedincouch
03-03-2014, 10:55 PM
Like I said the sound system sounds really good, but the doors are vibrating & I hear muffled sounds mixed in with the music.



That muffled sound is coming from the outside of the car. Specifically from the cars around you as they laugh at this thing. Seriously why is there a cowl on the hood and a wing on the back -_-

10 points from Gryffindor and by far worse than anything I have ever done to my gram and gramp style grocery getter or the sticker bomb to the explorer.

gckless
03-03-2014, 11:36 PM
This is fantastic. More pics OP!

ducatipaso
03-04-2014, 01:33 AM
Once my C70 is lowered and I swap out the front bumper for the more square & aggressively styled Volvo XC V70 front bumper it will really change the whole look of the car. The XC V70 is kind of like a awd light duty SUV wagon, so the front bumper looks roughed.

If I would have painted the scoop & spoiler silver they would have blended in.

The attached picture is of my dads C prepared 1985 Mustang hatchback, the rear wheels are like 16 x 12 and I think the tires are almost 14 inches wide, the front wheels are 16 x 10 { I think} The front fenders & rear quarter panels are flared with sheet metal not fiberglass and it has fiberglass doors and a cowl hood. He dose Sports Car Club of America "SCCA" autocross racing. its racing in big parking lots thru course set up with orange cones, theirs like 100 to 160 cars that show up, it varies.

The cowl hood is how I get down, I had a orange & black 1980 Mustang hatchback with the body work off of a 1993 GT on it, a mach 1 style ram air cowl hood and a saleen wing / whale tail spoiler. I didn't build much of a sound system, but I did fiberglass-ed the spare tire wheel { when I was 17 years old } and tired to make a wood frame for a box that would fit with the fiberglass spare tire wheel and the rear bars of my roll cage. but my measurements were way off & couldn't figure out how to fix it.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/SeptAutocross3_zps20523c2a.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/SeptAutocross3_zps20523c2a.jpg.html)

TheUnderFighter
03-04-2014, 04:31 PM
Great car... tasteful mods for sure.
I highly recommend you read: Basic Car Audio Electronics (http://www.bcae1.com) before delving any deeper into anything. And read around here for a month or two before spending any money.\

IonRL205
03-04-2014, 05:20 PM
Wow dude, that spoiler, I bet you glide though 150 mph turns with that thing! And if traffic gets too bad, you can just fly over them! That car must also have a beast of a motor to have that big of a cowl hood, like holy ****, that car must whoop some ***!

When you get that sound system, all the females are going to crowd around you! That is gonna be one awesome car!




...said no one ever.

slammedincouch
03-04-2014, 08:46 PM
Why didn't you just leave it the way you had it in september of 2013? Looked so0o0o much butter

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/Sept23C706_zps3d891971.jpg

BoomTaco64
03-05-2014, 11:28 AM
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/FebC70transswaphoodscoopspolier3-transcaninpic_zps80144e40.jpg


Why didn't you just leave it the way you had it in september of 2013? Looked so0o0o much butter

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/Sept23C706_zps3d891971.jpg


they way you had to NASCAR out your clean looking volvo...:confused:.....what is the "GO FAST" wing on the back going to do with your car as far as performance? better downforce at 150mph??? you killed the looks of your car...and the hood...oh my...:suicide:.....good luck with the build and please stop with the exterior "performance" upgrades...you are driving 15-80mph...your not on the track, if you are, get a coupe because the convertible top is killing you.

ducatipaso
03-05-2014, 12:20 PM
As for the motor in the Mustang " I think" it has 320 to 330HP its never been on a dyno for fine tuning, the mustang weighs about 2700lbs. the power is being sent thru a upgraded but still stock type T5 manual trans. The trans bolts to the bell housing with four bolts and its broken those 4 mounting taps that the bolts go thru.

The rear dif is a locker with 4.11 gear. The rear tires size { diameter } plus 4.11 gears & the motors spinning at 6000 to 6500 rpms means it has a estimated top speed in second gear of 80 to 90 mph - at least that is what I am told. When auto crossing you kind of just shift into second gear and keep it their for the rest of the course.

The rear differential / suspension has coil-overs and a part called a torque arm, when the Mustang is given gas instead of it trying to lifting the nose and transfer the weight to the rear wheels the whole car squats and is pulled / pushed down by the forces that would have other whys lifted the nose.

Ha Ha Ha the fiberglass doors have no window parts in them at all and the opening the windows would have slide up thru has been glassed over, so those fiberglass doors would be a blank slate for a stereo install.

I still need to do more research on the system for my C70, I removed the center dash a/c vent to take a look behind it and as much as I would like to install a pair of mini subs front & center, making a 3inch by like 9 panel for three gauges, and then wrapping the panel with something blue so that I have a snug fitting gauge panel might be a better option for me.

among other things my planned Volvo S60R spaceball shifter install is going to be much more complicated then I had planned, my C70's center console is a inch lower then the S60 center console and the spaceball shifter needs that extra height for it to work properly. That means I would have to swap consoles and trim my dash for it to fit, I would also have to swap the parking brake handle and a steel tunnel that the parking brake handles mounts to, but in the end I would have the spaceball shifter and a better set of cup holders.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/S60Rshifters_zps58725781.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/S60Rshifters_zps58725781.jpg.html)

Jroo
03-05-2014, 03:08 PM
There is a lot going on here, some good and some not so good. As a former V70 owner I prefer the stock look of the Volvo but this is your car. If it were me, I would take the car up to the "R" level which was more performance than a normal Volvo and very subtle exterior changes.

Did you really say roof shingles and roll cage in the same sentence?

ducatipaso
03-06-2014, 12:41 AM
I worked on the wiring for my transmission swap today "with no wiring diagram" and I think i have narrowed down the wires that trip a relay for the reverse lights & brake lights, so tomorrow I need to track down that relay - I can hear it clicking under the dash, then I need to run some wires to it and sort thru some other wires that are preventing my abs & gauge cluster from working properly.

It looks like the weather should warm up for three or four days and I can turn my attention to sound damping my doors and I will take plenty of pics.

but I don't know about using this roofing cement, its cold outside so it might be really thick, it said trowel ready on the label, I knew spreading it won't be cake boss but when I was at Target I thought it might be when I saw this cake boss cooking utensil that I thought might work as a trowel. But I didn't buy it.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/cakeboss_zps5ec78533.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/cakeboss_zps5ec78533.jpg.html)

I don't know if using roofing cement in a sound dampening project is ricer but the wooden chines style cooking utensils I purchased are. I purchased a pack of three - a spoon and two spatulas. Now I am thinking about swooping into a thrift store and trying to score a old crock pot to use to heat the roofing cement. I could fill the crock pot with water and then put the paint can size can of roofing cement in that water. It would then heat the cement like a "open" double boiler" and I am sure it will smell wonderful.

Once I am done sound damping the doors, tinting the front windows, a oil change, my trans wiring, rear brake pads & new parking brake shoes, then I can move onto tinting the two rear side windows of witch will require me to remove the rear interior panels, "then I will do more sound dampening their" at the same time I will be removing the top rear seat cushion of witch will reveal the factory designed area for the rear 8's.

I was a Volvo tech and service porter at a Volvo dealer, so I've driven plenty of the twin turbo S80 T6, S70 & V70 R, S60R and 850R's, I want to improve my C70's performance but right now it has no abs, won't revs past 4000RPM and once the speed goes over 65 I loose the speedo and my brakes get worse, so when you loose your speedo your skinny dipping.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/C70onthestreet_zps8460213d.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/C70onthestreet_zps8460213d.jpg.html)

Side Show
03-06-2014, 12:53 AM
lol your dads rig needs a wing.................. ohhh lord jk

ducatipaso
03-06-2014, 11:25 PM
I pulled the door panels on my C70 so that I could get an idea for how to sound dampen / deaden the doors and I found a phew parts that were bolted tougher and making metal on metal contact { of witch could vibrate} and the plastic honey comb - crash crumble zone plastics inserts were a bit loose/ un-dampened and making contact with the door, so those areas could of been creating vibrations.

The window is controlled with cables and the inside of the door is much tighter then I remember it being. The doors already have a layer of sound damping matt & quite a bit of foam pad. I must have been thinking of a Volvo S70 or Volvo 850's doors when I thought their was a large degree of improvement to me made in sound damping my C70's doors.

The doors are sealed pretty good so the free air 8's have a good baffle, I am thinking that I will tape off everything I don't want to get the roofing cement on and then just try to improve what is their and cover as much of the metal as I can with a layer of roofing cement and then stick a layer of foam to it. I will cut the shingles into the right size pieces, preheat them and then mold them and seal them into place.

As I do the doors I want to keep my long term goal in mind of bringing the subs up level with the door panels so the sound waves aren't limited to only coming out of a speaker grill that is less then half the size of the 8. I've been taking pics but I need to buy a new micro memory card before I can upload the pics.

I was looking at the inside of the door panels also for anything loose or making contact with the door that could rattle and the door panels looked pretty good, but I suppose when your working with a car that had a $43,000 msrp when it was new the car should be a quality foundation to build from.

When I look at the doors & the area that the 8"'s mount to, for me to bring the 8"'s up I would need to make wooden rings that go around the sheet metal that supports the 8's and build up a surface for a new speaker mounting surface. And then cut into the door panel so that it could fit next to the new speaker enclosure.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/C70doorspeakerideas_zpsbea9edba.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/C70doorspeakerideas_zpsbea9edba.jpg.html)

The picture is of a C70 door of the net


The blue circle is the location of the 4"mid and their isn't much mounting depth, if I cut into the doors sheet metal I could gain a little shy of 2 inches of speaker mounting depth. I would like to upgrade to a 5 1/4 as a way to increase the power handling capacity but then it would be harder to mount them at an angle & towards the driver and passenger. So I am still playing with ideas for the mid range drivers.

The lower area of the door is were the 8" sub is, The black arrows are pointing to were the clips are that hold the panel on, I kind of like the idea of cutting along the doted orange line and then up & around the sub. So that I can make the lower area into a shelve for the door panel to mount to and then it could slide behind a lip on the speaker enclosure.
{orange arrows are screws going up and yellow arrows screws going down.}

Then I could cover that whole lower area & speaker enclosure with some type of blue material and fit the door panel onto it. I've never do anything like this but I think it would look excellent & accomplish the goal of bring the 8' to the surface.

ducatipaso
03-07-2014, 09:37 PM
I used up 22 or 23 feet of blue tint trying 6 times to tint the drives side window and I had a crease I couldn't get out each time, so while I wait for another roll of tint I am preparing to work with these shingles, roofing cement and foam matt so that I can start sound damping my C70. The weather was warmer today but the viscosity / thinness of the roofing cement has been on my mind.

My first though was to warm it in a crock pot but I decided to purchase a 1100watt hot plate instead and I will just put the can of roofing cement on the hot plate. Since I am trying to adjust the temp of the roofing cement I figured I needed a thermonater to gauge its temp so I purchased a cheap meat thermonater. I figured that I would need something to stir it with so I purchased a cheap steal ladle.

I can use the ladle to stir the cement and use it to transfer some cement from the can to the work surface. By heating the roofing cement it should flow better and as it cools the outside skin should be thicker and harder then the normal curing. The added heat should also make it stick and bond to the shingles better.

I want to heat the shingles so they are easier to cut, conform to curves better & bond better with the cement. I am debating between using 2 electrical irons to heat the shingles or a toaster oven & then rotate 4 small sheet pans of shingle pieces in and out of the toaster oven.

After I sound dampen the doors then I will take a closer look at the door panels and decided if I want to go purchased some mdf and dig the router table out of the attic, the router table hasn't been used for years.

gckless
03-07-2014, 09:46 PM
WTF. Either this guy:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bRnEt20VD6s/T-2wOtPXgDI/AAAAAAAACXM/5nVb--ArphA/s1600/super-retard.jpg

Or a really good troll. I can't decide.

ducatipaso
03-11-2014, 12:01 AM
Well today I set everything up to test the roofing cement & took lots of pictures.

When I opened the can of roofing cement it was black & shinny and the texture looked dense. It looked to have maybe three different sizes of matter, a bonding paste and two or maybe three larger textures.

I dipped a steel ladle in to scoop out some cement and it came out with easy but then it didn't want to come out of the ladle.

Last week I purchased a 1100 watt hot plate and today I a purchased a small sauce pan with a lid from the thrift store. So I scooped the roofing cement into the sauce pan and heated it.

On the label it said - do not heat container not - do not heat continents of container / roofing cement, so I put the cement in a sauce pan. The cement didn't have much odor and I heated it to 150 degrees, it softened up some but it didn't melt into a pourable liquid at that temp.

I laid out 10 sample pieces of roof shingle, cereal box card board, thin foam matte, metal & plastic screen. Then I spread around the gooey black cement and watched its texture as I worked with it and bonded tougher different combinations of samples. Then I set them aside to cure, after they cure I will test the adhesion, tensional strength & its flexibility it feels.

At the last minute I decided to use a piece of screen as a test piece and the cement worked very well with plastic screen. I put a gob of the cement on a piece of cardboard and then laid the screen on top and used another piece of card board to spread the screen into the cement.

The screen conformed to the shape of the cement and a percentage of the cement pushed thru the screen. I was pleased by that.

I made a bit of a mess when trying to work the cement into the cavity of my C70's upper motor mount but it was another chances for me to work with the texture of the cement.

I wasn't wearing rubber gloves and without thinking I dipped my finger in to get another gob of cement, then it occurred to me that it might be hard to clean the cement of my hands.

But when I purchased the roofing cement I also purchased some low grade paint thinner and the paint thinner dissolved the cement very quickly.

On the front of the label it said for vertical applications and on the back it said something about possible a 30 day cure time.

The long cure time means it might not work for my C70's motor mount, becasue if I try to accelerate the cure time by using tomuch heat the oils might evaporate to quickly and cause the cement to become brittle, brake and then powder when the mount is in service.

The roofing cement is messy but when combined with roofing shingles & thin insulating foam pad it will work for many areas of my C70 sound damping project.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/SiefieldCBCB_zps6bb5c85a.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/SiefieldCBCB_zps6bb5c85a.jpg.html)
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/Siefieldtakeapool_zps428539a4.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/Siefieldtakeapool_zps428539a4.jpg.html)

ducatipaso
03-13-2014, 11:47 PM
I tested my roofing cement test pieces yesterday and today to check the cure time of the cement & the strength of the cement.

I tried to slowly pull the different pieces apart and it seamed to have a adhesion strength { the amount of force it took to pull them apart } of about 10 or 12 pounds of force . Today the samples strength felt more like 20 pounds and the cements bounded was the best between bare metal & a roofing shingle.

I think the testing pieces are a bit fouled now that they have been pulled apart two or three times.

So in conclusions I think the cement has the vertical { up and down } holding strength needed to hold the weight of shingles in place. After they are in place I will apply a overlapping layer as added insurance they won't fall off and the extra cement will add more to the damping effect.

On my C70's front door I think I will use a combination of cut pieces of shingles, roofing cement and lots of thin insulating foam.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/simpletestrig_zps5aa92657.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/simpletestrig_zps5aa92657.jpg.html)

ducatipaso
03-16-2014, 10:13 PM
After I removed my C70's seats & carpet, I shampooed the carpets and then scotch guarded them next day.

While I was looking at the floor pan / uni-body of my C70 I noticed their where sheet steel hollow chambers built into the uni-body. I thought those look like they could be sound boxes "like a acoustic guitar" and sounds could resonate in them. So I stuffed old plastics bags from the grocery store into some of the chambers.

I also cut & laid out some roofing shingles, my C70 is a luxury convertible so it already has quite a bit of sound damping & a layer of inch thick foam under the carpet but I want to make it quieter. Under the foam that is under the front seat carpet is two sheets of sound deadening, but under the seats & behind them their is none.

Under the seats and in the rear seat area I think I am going to lay a layer of thin foam pad and then cement the shingles to the pad, then I will add another layer of cement that I can stick a layer of foam pad to. "So that the whole thing can be removed" - like if I need to do any welding to the floor pan or rocker panels.

I tinted my front windows yesterday and they look good.

The weather looks like its going to be to chilly for me to use the roofing cement tommrow so I might just work on painting my factory wheels that I am rocking on the passenger side.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/C70soundboxes_zps6d67f265.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/C70soundboxes_zps6d67f265.jpg.html)
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/C70sounddampingbags_zps7ed13378.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/C70sounddampingbags_zps7ed13378.jpg.html)
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/checkingthescrore1_zps1b0413f9.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/checkingthescrore1_zps1b0413f9.jpg.html)
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/checkingthescore_zps9208770a.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/checkingthescore_zps9208770a.jpg.html)

slammedincouch
03-16-2014, 10:52 PM
I just don't even know what's going on in here anymore.

---------- Post added at 09:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------

Here's a picture of some lasagna


http://images.media-allrecipes.com/userphotos/250x250/00/03/24/32427.jpg

NFrazier
03-16-2014, 11:00 PM
this has to be a joke thread, like seriously.

Sleeklsc
03-16-2014, 11:12 PM
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/tacosandhotdogs/2011FLYER2.jpg (http://media.photobucket.com/user/tacosandhotdogs/media/2011FLYER2.jpg.html)

dumple
03-16-2014, 11:21 PM
No one likes the tuna here.......

Beau M
03-17-2014, 12:04 AM
This is amazing. More pics of the actual car please.

slammedincouch
03-17-2014, 12:08 AM
this has to be a joke thread, like seriously.

See I THOUGHT this until I found a thread with this volvo and username on a volvo forum, unless this is some SUPER Troll type ****.

Link (http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?205639-C70-hood-scoop-amp-roll-cage)

Beau M
03-17-2014, 03:20 PM
Cross-forum trolling like this is some next level Jedi ish.

ducatipaso
03-17-2014, 11:03 PM
Yeah I am totally into this build and I've been taking pics with my phone but I need a new memory card before I can transfer the pics. They cost like $22 at Target or $6 at the big computer store across town, but I won't be able to get their for another week.

When I removed the top of my rear seat the area for the two 8 inch subs is like 40 wide by like 13 or 15 high, with maybe 7 inches of depth. Their is a sub opening on either side of a ski pass thru. I've been looking at the area and I kind of want to run 3 10"s in the back and a 10 in each door.

The steel floor pan under the rear seat cushion is made in such a way that it would be relatively easy for me to flush mount the amps and just ditch the upper and lower rear seat cushions. But I haven't put a pen to paper and sketched anything yet.

Beau M
03-18-2014, 12:50 PM
10" in the doors would be really cool!

ducatipaso
03-19-2014, 12:01 AM
Today I laid a layer of thin foam down on the floor pan under where the passenger seat goes, the rear foot well area and where the rear seat mounts. Then I used the roofing cemented to bond some roofing shingles "that I had already cut" for the areas to the foam.

I sealed the edges of the shingles to the foam with kind of a thick layer of cement that over lapped onto the top of the shingles. I was spreading the roofing cement with a wooden kitchen spatula. I had a used a double thick pieces of cardboard as kind of a mixing board and would ladle a scoop full of roofing cement on to it and then use the spatula to transfer the cement to the shingles.

then I would work the cement back and forth using the spatula like a spreader to create a even coat of cement. Then I would bond the shingles to the foam.

when I laid out the foam I had to cut it to fit and used some masking tape to seal up any seams. I later realized that duct tape would bonded to the shinny foam better and I really needed to be using 2inch wide tape instead of inch wide tape.

But anyway after I had the shingles bonded & sealed to the foam I added another layer of foam and sealed it into place with roofing cement.

I used about half of the gallon of roofing cement on the areas mentioned.

My original plan was to sound dampen the doors during this phase of the build so it looks like I either need to go get some more roofing cement, or put the doors back tougher and then sound dampen them when I build some speaker baffles.

phemps
03-20-2014, 03:54 AM
Today I laid a layer of thin foam down on the floor pan under where the passenger seat goes, the rear foot well area and where the rear seat mounts. Then I used the roofing cemented to bond some roofing shingles "that I had already cut" for the areas to the foam.

I sealed the edges of the shingles to the foam with kind of a thick layer of cement that over lapped onto the top of the shingles. I was spreading the roofing cement with a wooden kitchen spatula. I had a used a double thick pieces of cardboard as kind of a mixing board and would ladle a scoop full of roofing cement on to it and then use the spatula to transfer the cement to the shingles.

then I would work the cement back and forth using the spatula like a spreader to create a even coat of cement. Then I would bond the shingles to the foam.

when I laid out the foam I had to cut it to fit and used some masking tape to seal up any seams. I later realized that duct tape would bonded to the shinny foam better and I really needed to be using 2inch wide tape instead of inch wide tape.

But anyway after I had the shingles bonded & sealed to the foam I added another layer of foam and sealed it into place with roofing cement.

I used about half of the gallon of roofing cement on the areas mentioned.

My original plan was to sound dampen the doors during this phase of the build so it looks like I either need to go get some more roofing cement, or put the doors back tougher and then sound dampen them when I build some speaker baffles.

Pics

BoomTaco64
03-20-2014, 11:57 AM
yes indeed, pics of this cement and shingles install....:wacky:

ducatipaso
03-20-2014, 09:52 PM
Their was light raining yesterday so I couldn't work on my C70, instead I walked to Home Depot to purchased another can of roofing cement. The Home depot that I went to had a wider selection of roofing type cements and sealers so I purchased a can that said it was a brush-able adhesive & sealant.

Today I laid sections of thin foam pad down on the drivers side and taped the sections tougher with duct tape. Its was kind of cloudy and it looked like it was going to rain so I didn't cement the shingles in-place on the drivers side. While I was cleaning up I did reinstall the factory foam pad on the passenger side and it seamed to fit fine even with the extra floor height created by the sound damping materials.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/Roofie_zpsfb98b965.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/Roofie_zpsfb98b965.jpg.html)

phemps
03-21-2014, 02:35 AM
WAT. Any pictures of the actual supposed "build"

ducatipaso
03-22-2014, 11:55 PM
Yesterday I cemented the shingles to the thin foam pad on the drivers side. The roofing sealer / adhesive that I purchased in place of the roofing cement said it was brush-able but it was still pretty thick. I used the sealer to seal the top layer of thin foam pad to the shingles I laid down. Even though the sealer was sticky, it spread easily on the slick / smooth & shiny foam pad.

Then I cut down the heater ducts that channel hot air under front seats and to the rear passenger compartment., I reinstalled the factory foam pad, carpets & set the front seats back in. { I also cleaned the seats while they were out}
,
Today I walked to hardware store and purchased another pack of expanding retainers "they are hard to describe" but - when I was a Volvo tech and prepping new cars one of the many things that needed done was to installing the front license plate bracket, to do so two holes the size of a sharpy marker were made and then some metal inserts were pushed into the holes. When a bolt was threaded into the inserts the bolt pulled the other end of the insert forward and the insert crushed & smashed into the inside of the bumper. In doing so it created a solid mounting surface for the license plate bolts or in the case of a Volvo torx bots.

More to the point, the door panels on my C70 are held onto the door with quality expanding push ins, where their is a part that slides into the door and then a push in slides into the other part and expands it. My door panels were tight before but they could have been vibrating some & any sound damping materiel applied to the inside of the door panels will added weight.

So I've had kept my eye out for a metal expanding retainer, simpler to the Volvo license plate inserts and I found some a Lows Home Improvement.

I had to modify the the retainers built in mounting surface / flange {the washer type area} a bit so it was flat & didn't have fangs that dig in. The retainers would have worked just fine with that simple modification but I couldn't leave well enough alone, I purchased some lock washers to put on the inside of the door and then the retainer could pull tight on the surface of the lock washer, but then later I thought the metal on metal might vibrate, so I purchased some rubber gasket materiel,

The rubber gasket materiel was less then the thickness of two credit cards and I cut it into 12 one inch by one inch squares. Then I stacked all 12 of the squares up and tapped them tougher with two or three layers of masking tape.

Then I drilled a hole thru the center of them so that I could use the rubber instead of a lock washer or in addition to a lock washers when I install the retainers tommrow.

I am debating what I want to do as fare as sound damping my doors goes, the roofing sealer / adhesives is thick but it could run and sag, then during curing the process adhesion would be reduced and the foam or shingles could pull away. or the sealer could pool were I don't want it to.

So when I sound dampen my doors I would really like to take the doors off, put then on fender stands, sound dampened them and build my speaker enclosures at the same time but that takes time and space.

So it looks like tomorrow I am going to be sound dampening the insides of the door panels with a layer of foam, my though is that the door panels are like fiber board and their for don't resonate much but maybe the foam could absorb & dissipate a bit more road noise.

While I was looking at the door panels I can see how they need to be modified to blend well with a enclosure for a 10 but given my budget and time I just need to put the doors back together and get my car back on the road.

Beau M
03-23-2014, 11:23 PM
:needpics:

ducatipaso
03-25-2014, 10:50 PM
I cut the wing-lets out for my C70's rear wing out of some Lexan and they turned out really good.

Then I put some thin foam on the inside of my door panels

After checking the window tinting laws in I found my tint isn't legal, the tint is light "35%" put I am going to have to pull the tint so now I have to rethink the whole exterior styling of my car.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/C70spoiler1_zps04275b17.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/C70spoiler1_zps04275b17.jpg.html)
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag475/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/C70spoiler3_zpse5f723c5.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/UltraSinisterArtisticallyCreativeDesigns/media/C70spoiler3_zpse5f723c5.jpg.html)