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accuab
01-21-2014, 09:04 PM
The stock fronts are 6.5" in the door with a 2" tweeter at the mirror. The crossover is done by the rear integration module. Should I look at components or do separates? I am looking at doing them with an aftermarket amp via a LOC after the RIM. The question comes in that I don't know if the 6.5" is a full range feed or if some of the high frequency is cut off since there is a tweeter. Anyone familiar?

Side Show
01-21-2014, 09:44 PM
i'd replace the factory splits (tweeter & mid) with aftermarket ones, you can send them full range and make the crossover that comes with them to separate the correct freq to the tweet and mid

accuab
01-21-2014, 09:48 PM
i'd replace the factory splits (tweeter & mid) with aftermarket ones, you can send them full range and make the crossover that comes with them to separate the correct freq to the tweet and mid

You meaning a component set?

Side Show
01-21-2014, 09:52 PM
Yeah if that's what you call them

components and separates are the same
you ment to say components or coaxils I think lol

Side Show
01-21-2014, 09:53 PM
I use the terms coax (for 2/3/4ways speakers) and splits (for components systems)

accuab
01-21-2014, 10:05 PM
Yea I should have used that terminology. The only thing is with this car the crossover is in a separate box back by the rear seat with different wires sent to each speaker. So I'm wondering if the highs are even sent to the 6.5". If that's the case, components won't do me any good. I was hoping they were so I could just get a 2 channel amp and power them. If the signal is split up, I will need a 4 channel and have to do coax. I can't find the info online anywhere to help me out with figuring that part out.

keep_hope_alive
01-22-2014, 12:29 AM
you can get 2" drivers to replace the stock drivers with - Parts Express and Madisound sell them for a reasonable price. the concern is that the stock aiming results in lower resolution and muted response due to off-axis response.

Side Show
01-22-2014, 12:50 AM
huh? is it a crossover (x2) or an amp in the boot?

accuab
01-22-2014, 01:35 AM
huh? is it a crossover (x2) or an amp in the boot?

All audio processing and amplification is done in the RIM. The stock hu only sends a signal.

Side Show
01-22-2014, 01:41 AM
RIM is the problem lol.... you can change out each speaker aslong as you match it with the correct impedance. some of those RIM thingos run at 3ohms and stuff

Side Show
01-22-2014, 01:42 AM
and to answer your question
No - it wont be full range going to the 6.5"speakers

accuab
01-22-2014, 02:07 AM
They're all either 2 or 4 ohm luckily. Which I'm looking at an aftermarket amp fed with the signal from the RIM and impedance wouldn't be a factor then. It has a factory sub so I'm assuming the 6.5 is actually bandpassed but have no idea of what frequencies. So I guess I'm either going to do the 4 channel or have to change the hu. But changing the hu requires an added high priced harness so idk.

Side Show
01-22-2014, 02:12 AM
do you have to use the RIM cant you go straight from headunit to active crossover then to amps? instead of using the rim?

---------- Post added at 03:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:11 AM ----------

i'd bite the bullet and get a decent headunit it there

accuab
01-22-2014, 02:31 AM
Yes and no about the RIM. The signal is sent through a data line so I could go around it with an aftermarket hu. Doing that would lose a 4" in the dash that does more than you would think for bringing the staging higher. But I could wire the hu normally but use the line out feed to an amp and power the speakers that way but didn't want to put that much money in it. I'm adding my sub to the car I already had and just going for more highs and mids to match up.

Side Show
01-22-2014, 02:39 AM
im a firm believer in the saying"do it once and do it right" i'd just keep reaserching/deciding what you want until you have the funds todo it. with an aftermarket headunit you can control and adjust the sound and eq a lot more than you could with any standard deck.

accuab
01-22-2014, 02:54 AM
I'd be perfectly happy with it if it was just louder and had a little bit more highs. I could get that with more efficient aftermarket speakers. I was just looking at amping them to get even more. I just wouldn't drop $700-1000 when there's no need to.

Side Show
01-22-2014, 03:02 AM
if you think there is no need, don't bother with it.