PDA

View Full Version : 2008 350Z Installation Process



Chromatic
01-13-2014, 01:36 AM
Well.. you've probably run across one of my posts in the last month or so while I was researching and asking questions.

I've been working since Friday on this car,.. don't even know how many hours I've put in now, lost count.

Anyhow,.. Here's some pics of the car:

Car interior stripped 90%:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3834/11889851006_eb735f8121.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11889851006/)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3774/11889282053_7173fc90d4.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11889282053/)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3814/11889863356_3b9d489c43.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11889863356/)

JL 10" sub wired, and mounted into Custom Box:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3676/11889429764_99ce3ea7c6.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11889429764/)

Factory Mids pulled out (Wow, these are terrible!) -- Had to cut them out of their spacer to reuse it with the new Components I bought.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3718/11889999266_2a323043e7.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11889999266/)

New JBL Components successfully in factory spacers (one heck of a job fabricating those spacers to put these JBL mids!) -- And put the 1" tweeter in stock location (had to cut/fab behind that sail panel quite a bit to get them to fit.. but they fit perfect)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3729/11912075985_6df0e74046.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11912075985/)

Used Rattle Trap Extreme to deaden doors -- Am running out of deadener, and the doors were A LOT better sealed by factory than I anticipated.

If you have some recommendations of where else to put the deadener on these doors let me know.. I have a little left.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2851/11921687595_6eb26fae56.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11921687595/)

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/11922142294_83e9e7f141.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11922142294/)

Slot where the Custom stealth box is going,.. Used a ton of sound deadener in this spot.. picture just shows bottom, but it's done up top, sides , etc. Plus there is a 1" rubber mat that is on top of this material, not shown in pic.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3707/11921955843_108fa6a0c1.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11921955843/)

(Continued in next post).........................

Chromatic
01-13-2014, 01:37 AM
Rear 6.5" (Late 90's German) MB Quarts installed with X-overs. [I used 5+ sq ft. of sound deadener just up in this area.. that stuff goes fast!]

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3755/11922141224_7a13d015e5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11922141224/)

Yes,.. I opted to wire and install a Bass Knob. I KNOW many of you go against the notion of using one,.. but I plan on adjusting it on the fly quite often. So here it is mounted in a discreet "Invisible" location in the center console pop up box (top comes down and covers this). Used Industrial Velcro to mount it (worked fantastic!).. and dremeled below it for the phone cord to come through properly. I think it turned out pretty good:

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2883/11922558236_fa3efa406b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11922558236/)

The Custom Sub Box installed (It's downward firing). [This thing was a beast to get installed,.. 3 of the 12 bolts lined up :( .. So more dremel work with a light sanding bit being very careful with that MDF.] Turned out well though.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3796/11922553716_9a808b06e2.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11922553716/)

I'd say I'm 90% done now.

I have (not pictured) a carpeted amp rack built to go in the left "glove box" behind passenger seat (which when closed won't be seen).. that's drying right now.

Tomorrow I wire the amp up,.. plug in the headunit,.. and pray. If all works, I dial in the amp, then start re-assembling the vehicle.

Wish me luck!

lnsomnia
01-13-2014, 08:01 AM
Looks great! You did all of that pretty quick. You're going to be shocked when you hear how it sounds compared to what you had before.

4bannger
01-13-2014, 11:10 AM
Nice work. That was a quick build. I can say my build will be taking my much longer haha

trumpet
01-13-2014, 11:19 AM
The subwoofer enclosure might have fit fine without the rubber mat in there. On SRQ's web site I think I saw all the bolts in place.

Chromatic
01-13-2014, 05:28 PM
Looks great! You did all of that pretty quick. You're going to be shocked when you hear how it sounds compared to what you had before.

Yeah.. It's going to be a shock one way or another. Going from 10watt two speakers (as shown in that picture with the Quarter sized magnet).. to 4 mid-high end mids/highs.. + 10" sub and amp.. lol. It's WAY over what I was shooting for,.. but I have a volume button for that, right?



Nice work. That was a quick build. I can say my build will be taking my much longer haha

It's been quick in "days spent" .. but I've put a lot of time of those days into it. I have 27 hours into it of solid work.. When I'm done I anticipate 32-36 hours or so.. all depending on any snags I run into.

Believe it or not what I'm most worried about is getting this aftermarket headunit and center gauge pod section back together as the DIY guides were NOT right for my setup so I had to go Maverick on it and start unscrewing whereever I could.. As it's been 3-4 days.. remembering how it was all positioned is going to be mostly like getting into the car for the first time with the deck and center console out and figuring it out as if I'd never seen it before. Maybe I'll get lucky and things will go back in within an hour or less.. That'd make me happy.

But, these things take time that's for sure. Longer than I even planned for. Here it is Monday and I'm just about to get back to it (should be wiring up amp today).. I technically "could" possibly finish it up today and have the car back together.. that would happen if I don't run into any MAJOR snags in the rest of the process..




The subwoofer enclosure might have fit fine without the rubber mat in there. On SRQ's web site I think I saw all the bolts in place.

Good point. However, I think if you saw the actual clearance from the bottom of the sub to the mat itself you'd understand why I put it back in. There's at least 3-5" of clearance from the bottom of the box where sub is downward firing and the mat. It's DEEP in that pocket. So nothing is touching , not even close, inside the area on the Sub side.

I put in the sound deadener as you saw.. but the mat will only help absorb.. and the rubber mat can't be more than 1/2" thick or so.. quite a bit of clearance, so no worries there.

Thanks

4bannger
01-13-2014, 06:19 PM
yeah major snags can be a real problem. i do custom cabinets for a living and my customer will always ask me what how long it will take, And i always say "well most likely a few hours unless something horrible goes wrong and ill be here all night"

Milk Mayne
01-13-2014, 11:15 PM
Looks like its coming along great! I should've taken more pictures when I went through my install, our interiors are almost identical. If you need any help with something or have any questions shoot me a PM, I can probably help you out.

Chromatic
01-14-2014, 12:58 AM
Continuation of build:

Today was the big day to see if all my hard work .. well ... worked!

First I decided I should put more sound deadener in the car.. I deadened this entire area and bulk heads.. Plus other areas I didn't bother to take pictures of.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3684/11941583574_3ff93c991b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11941583574/)


And.. it's ALIVE! -- Setting Gains!

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5527/11941415513_59f213e5fc.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11941415513/)

And.. only other shot I took was of the headunit,.. as I tuned the system in after Gains were set properly.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5503/11941981696_83d879f9df.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11941981696/)


Fired right up! Everything worked flawlessly.. I couldn't believe it :)

It sounds phenomenal,.. way better than anticipated.

To get proper voltages for speakers,.. I ended up at 50% on gains for front,.. 50% on gains for rear.. and 60% on gain for Sub. Not too bad.

One thing I DID notice was not only did my 90's MB Quarts work,.. but they sounded at least 5 times better than the JBL's. This isn't knocking the JBL components I put up front,.. but Germany did something right with this old set of MB Quarts I have. WOW! To adjust for the MB Quarts being a greater SQ and tone.. I faded to front about 50%.. thus dropping the quarts down about half way,.. this set things up very well for sound positioning.

For ME,.. Putting rears in the car does sound better. I dropped the rears, then added them.. over an over..

The sub is absolutely DEAD on perfect,.. It's not too much.. but if I WANT it to be ridiculous .. It's right there,.. with my Bass knob next to me.

All in all, I couldn't have done a better job myself... oh wait. ;) -- I'm just being a smart a.ss.. Seriously, I'm a very happy guy right now.

Tomorrow is put the interior back in day,.. no more worries of if all my work is going to work! Straight forward job on panels, trim, et al. Wonder what it's going to sound like with the interior back in?

Chromatic
01-14-2014, 02:14 AM
yeah major snags can be a real problem. i do custom cabinets for a living and my customer will always ask me what how long it will take, And i always say "well most likely a few hours unless something horrible goes wrong and ill be here all night"

I didn't run into any absolute NIGHTMARE snags.. but quite a few unexpected "Snags" that took up a lot more time than I expected. I had to fabricate, cut, dremel, etc just about every aspect of the install for the proper fitment. Since I had invested SO much time into this,.. I just wasn't going to do anything "half-a.ss" and it's paid off now with sound that is just amazing to ME. You guys might hear it and think otherwise, but it sounds a great deal cleaner and tighter than my last system I had professional installed with 2, 12" subs, kenwood amps.. etc..

At the end of the day,.. time is time,.. and having tackled something like this and it WORKING tonight,.. just puts a grin and sense of satisfaction you can't describe. Nothing like doing it yourself I suppose. Would I want to do it again next week? Heck no! :)

Chromatic
01-14-2014, 02:22 AM
Looks like its coming along great! I should've taken more pictures when I went through my install, our interiors are almost identical. If you need any help with something or have any questions shoot me a PM, I can probably help you out.

Thanks.. could have used your help on the kabillion questions I've had over the last month for this car.. but Now I just fired it up tonight and she sounds amazing.. everything I did.. apparently,.. I did right! Who would have thought? :)

If I run into any snags putting the interior back together I'll certainly hit you up. I think it'l all be smooth except maybe for the Headunit and gauge pod area.. the "guides" for that didn't match up with my headunit at all.. so I had to just start unscrewing stuff until it came out.. I certainly don't remember the 'reverse' procedure 5 days later .. and there's no "guide" for how to install a Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD in a 2008 model 350Z that I could go by to reinstall step by step.

Even though this Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD was a VERY popular headunit to put in the 350Z's because of how well it fits in there as a touchscreen unit with USB, Satellite, Backup camera, CD, DVD, Bluetooth, Auxillary input, etc..

It's this one:

AVH-P4100DVD - In-Dash Double-DIN DVD Multimedia AV Receiver with 7" Widescreen Display | Pioneer Electronics USA (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/DVD-Receivers/AVH-P4100DVD)

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/PUSA/Images/AVH-P4100DVD_front_lrg.jpg
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/PUSA/Images/AVH-P4100DVD_rear_lrg.jpg

Link - http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/DVD-Receivers/AVH-P4100DVD

You could be a HUGE help if you could find a guide to installation of this unit in a 2008 350Z.. (Wiring I've done, that's no issue) -- It's the physical alignment, and screw locations, what goes in first, etc that would help make that much easier than I anticipate it's going to be.

The 2008 350Z interior is ever so slightly different in these areas than even a few years back.. that the guides for this don't work due to screw locations, and so on. Not sure if the 2008 is the same EXACTLY inside as the 2006 and 2007.. or if they made a few changes for 2008 that aren't in prev. years inside... that are mainly noticeable when you start taking things apart.

Anyhow.. Thanks for your offer of help. The above is about the best thing you could do at this point. :)

Knowmadic
01-14-2014, 02:29 AM
Good job, looks great. Not only did you save money doing this yourself but you got the satisfaction of doing it yourself and ensuring it was done the right way

Jeffdachef
01-14-2014, 05:43 AM
Awesome job Chrome!! Yeah i'm pretty sure those old German made Mbquarts would sound phenomenally better then JBLs considering they retailed over half a grand when they were released, even if its coaxial vs components. you could switch the jbl 6.5s to the rear and the mbquarts to the front and see how it sounds with the crossover and jbl tweets. Might work, might not, but just some ideas to have fun with lol.

Milk Mayne
01-14-2014, 11:56 AM
You used a double din install kit for the Pioneer right? That's what you use to align the deck (to flush mount) with the rest of your dash. Loosen the four screws holding it in on the sides, and slide the unit forward/backward until it fits the position you like, and tighten it down. This may take some trial and error to get perfect.

For putting the center dash back together, you should go in this order (at least it is for the 370s). Screw the dash kit (with the head unit) back into place (four screws). Install the top piece (with the vents), this should snap into place, top to bottom, with two screws holding it into place at the bottom. Then install the side covers (at the bottom of the center dash, to the sides of the shifter knob), these should snap in, with two screws holding each side. Then slide the front of your shifter knob cover into the locations below the deck, and pop he rest into place. Seeing how your climate controls are integrated with the shift boot, that may go in before the side pieces, but I don't think so. Just a heads up. Let me know how that works out for you.

Chromatic
01-14-2014, 02:21 PM
Awesome job Chrome!! Yeah i'm pretty sure those old German made Mbquarts would sound phenomenally better then JBLs considering they retailed over half a grand when they were released, even if its coaxial vs components. you could switch the jbl 6.5s to the rear and the mbquarts to the front and see how it sounds with the crossover and jbl tweets. Might work, might not, but just some ideas to have fun with lol.


Thanks.. couldn't sleep last night.. so I am off work today,.. so have been "sleepily" working on the car. Yup.. these MB Quarts were top of the line (or at least high end) in the 90's.. and it's a shame MB Quart was pawned off to the US company "Maxxsonics".. (May be a link to Rockford there.. not sure). But, there quality has definitely gone way down hill. They aren't Walmart stuff.. but they have nothing in their speaker lines that come close to these mid/late 90's MB Quarts I have (not bragging, it's just the truth.. and in my opinion a shame.. MB Quart made some of the best sounding speakers on the planet at one point.).

For now I'm going to leave it.. A TON of work done to get those quarts back there.. In the future when I get an itch.. I may play around with them. If I did anything,.. I'd probably Carefully cut OFF the Tweeter from the Coaxial plastic .. and essentially turn them into Components.. I've looked over the wiring and construction it's very doable.. you just can't SLIP at all.. or you just ruined irreplaceable speakers!

Chromatic
01-14-2014, 02:32 PM
Update on Install Log:

Fabricated an Amp "mount" from Plywood,.. carpeted it,.. put 1/4" spacers under it,.. and screwed amp into the Fabricated amp "rack" if you will. Have industrial velcro around the lip of the "hole" (where that little box goes, that comes out) inside the glove box.. and on bottom of plywood amp rack.. It holds amp in place VERY VERY well,.. And the upside is any adjustments to the amp are a snap.. I just pull up on it and it comes right off to adjust without removing any panels, screws etc. Plus the industrial velcro is so strong that amp isn't moving even if I slammed on my brakes. I like this solution, it's simple. (I'm going to add a carpeted piece on top of it later today to give me roughly half of my glove box space back, and to protect the amp if I put anything in there.

Also got half the car back together.. As you can see from this picture it's very much a "stealth" install.. not one thing shows this has high end speakers, a sub, amp etc..

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7440/11951148364_c61a2b66b5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11951148364/)


Here is the Amp on the rack I built, carpeted,.. and tidy'd up -- It's simple, but I think it looks great imho. (Under that amp is a HUGE square hole.. I didn't just screw the amp down to that.. I had to make that (First time doing something like this,.. What do you think?)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3830/11951544946_04a84ff823.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11951544946/)

Broke a few clips on the LAST panel I put in .. glad it's in the rear.. so ordered them off Ebay for cheap for a 25 pack.. Will replace those (and have plenty extras for the future) as I will be removing panels again to add more sound deadener/closed cell foam, etc.

Just taking a little break.. Next is the door panels.

Chromatic
01-14-2014, 02:43 PM
You used a double din install kit for the Pioneer right? That's what you use to align the deck (to flush mount) with the rest of your dash. Loosen the four screws holding it in on the sides, and slide the unit forward/backward until it fits the position you like, and tighten it down. This may take some trial and error to get perfect.

For putting the center dash back together, you should go in this order (at least it is for the 370s). Screw the dash kit (with the head unit) back into place (four screws). Install the top piece (with the vents), this should snap into place, top to bottom, with two screws holding it into place at the bottom. Then install the side covers (at the bottom of the center dash, to the sides of the shifter knob), these should snap in, with two screws holding each side. Then slide the front of your shifter knob cover into the locations below the deck, and pop he rest into place. Seeing how your climate controls are integrated with the shift boot, that may go in before the side pieces, but I don't think so. Just a heads up. Let me know how that works out for you.

Hrmmm... Pictures are worth a thousand words for stuff like this. Let me drop a few pics your way in this thread,.. maybe that will help familiarize you with this setup.

(Also note: I bought the car with his ridiculous headunit in it, with TWO factory speakers at 10watts running... Isn't that some sort of punishable crime? :) )

Point is,. I didn't install the headunit.

Also.. I had to remove a "knee pad" that my right knee leans against when driving.

Here's the knee pad (next to the gauge cluster):
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3709/11951541956_6188fa7dc0.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11951541956/)

That Knee pad slides sideways into the whole unit there AND is bolted/screwed in. lol.. Don't know if you have these/this pad.

Here's a picture of my headunit and area as it sits at this moment:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3726/11951152664_fc3ae3accc.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11951152664/)

Here is a picture of Gauge pod which is attached to that Double Din bracket I think you were referring to -- I tried to get a clear picture of all screw holes .. from the front at least.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5502/11951149844_d3fede6c18.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11951149844/)


Please Take a good look at those pics.. There are subtle differences even in the 350Z line, year by year in this area.

From your description above it sounds like a 10 minute easy as pie job.. But,.. I didn't really get all the locations/references given it has no pictures with it.

Maybe you could use my pictures and use MSPAINT or something easy and circle and draw arrows to them , then post them and describe what you are talking about?

The order of how things go in is very important to me.

I appreciate your help on this.. I'll be getting to this part last.. likely in a few hours, after I throw in door panels (and do a clutch adjustment while I have the seats out.)

Really.. modifying those pictures real quickly with MSPAINT or something easy would be infinitely appreciated.

Thanks again. (I'm sure the 370 is different to some degree than my 2008 350Z -Last year they were made- )

Milk Mayne
01-14-2014, 03:43 PM
Can you pull the head unit out and take a picture of it and whatever it is mounted to? I'm trying to get an idea of what you've got but that part is kind of confusing me. I don't understand if it has a mount kit on it or not? It doesn't look like it does. I've got a good idea otherwise. I'm no near a computer so I can't modify your pictures, but I'll make sure to give a clear enough description to help you out.

I'll be off here at 530 eastern, but will keep checking for updates in the meantime.

DB-Audio
01-14-2014, 07:51 PM
nice install so far man looks clean

Chromatic
01-14-2014, 10:31 PM
Got the car back together.. and FINALLY got the headunit in .. wow what a pain! But,.. of all things, the trim piece doesn't fit now! ??

I wrestled with it.. tried to adjust the headunit to make it more "level" , etc.. but it just wouldn't fit around it. Then after enough tries one of the clips on the trim piece broke.. So I just gave up. I ordered another trim piece that will be here Thurs,. but at this point I don't know what to do to get it to fit around there properly?

This is a picture of what it looks like and how it's positioned without the trim piece on it now:

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5487/11957264683_9e03d7655c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11957264683/)


I'm sure you guys know just the thing to make this thing pop right on there.

Chromatic
01-15-2014, 01:36 AM
Can you pull the head unit out and take a picture of it and whatever it is mounted to? I'm trying to get an idea of what you've got but that part is kind of confusing me. I don't understand if it has a mount kit on it or not? It doesn't look like it does. I've got a good idea otherwise. I'm no near a computer so I can't modify your pictures, but I'll make sure to give a clear enough description to help you out.

I'll be off here at 530 eastern, but will keep checking for updates in the meantime.

If you still need the headunit pulled out (after I finally got it in lol).. I will do it as I know how to get it back in now..

But.. essentially what it is.. Is an aftermarket, obviously,.. Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD doubledin headunit,.. and to mount these you take the side brackets off the factory doubledin radio and attach them to that hole gauge pod.

Here.. I quickly dropped some lines in paint to point it out:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3688/11959393264_16f61bc6d8.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11959393264/)

The yellow arrow is pointing to the factory brackets.. see those LONG as.s legs on them ? Those were why it took me so long to figure out how to get that thing in there.. But that's not the issue now.

Now.. The red circle is the mounting holes.. two screws on each side that go into the headunit. It has the original factory holes.. and another set just beside them that whoever installed this head unit drilled to make it fit flush. Which , again, doesn't make sense to me.. because I used both sets of holes (more than once).. and it doesn't line up.. Well I'm guessing it's not lining up since the trim piece isn't fitting without gaps.

So basically it's the factory brackets.. with another set of holes drilled in it.. really simple set up (pain the butt to put back in due to how long those bracket bottom bolt legs/holes are.. you have to angle it down there where those legs go behind the very back of the bottom of the console area.. WHILE you have the top of the gauge pod hooked up and locked into the dash up top... Not a GOOD design at all. The brackets are attached to the gauge pod from the BACK.. so I couldn't remove the brackets then put them back on to make it easier.. as once you have them IN place.. you cannot possibly get BEHIND the brackets to put screws in them to mount them to the gauge pod console thingy..

But you see this picture of how the head unit currently is.. This is with it in the holes it was in when I disassembled it.. Should line up just fine right?

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5487/11957264683_9e03d7655c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11957264683/)

But it doesn't.. So need help on a freaking trim piece lol. At least I can put the seats back in and drive the car now :) -- Still annoys me to have the headunit looking like that right now after all that work though,. :(

Thanks man.

Milk Mayne
01-15-2014, 03:19 AM
Even though both the stock and aftermarket have double din openings, generally you still need a dash kit for the trim pieces and to ensure a flush finish. Here's exactly what you need from the looks of things. FRYS.com*|*METRA (http://www.frys.com/product/5027025?source=googleps&gclid=CMXUiqnM_7sCFUsV7AodMzEAmw) You can probably find one cheaper if you look around, eBay is a good source, just make sure to get a Metra or American International, it's what I've always used. You're lucky, at least your radio isn't integrated with your climate controls. Because of that my dash kit ended up being like $80. My friend with a G35 was looking at getting a double din, and when I looked into the installation materials, I found out the dash kit alone was $200.

Anyways, it looks great otherwise. Glad to see you got everything back together without any mishaps. You should also put your build log on one of the Z forums. People are always looking for how-to's with pictures. Even if you don't go into any great detail, just the pictures of yours alone would be worth a lot to plenty of people online.

I also wanted to say that I liked your idea with the bass knob. I did something similar, dremeling out a path, but located mine on the topside of the dash opening above the head unit. That way it would be both concealed and easily accessible.

BTW, I just got my XCON 15 in tonight, so check back in a few weeks, I'm planning on putting up a build log for the enclosure I'll be designing for the back hatch. The sub is going to be running at one ohm off a Sundown SAZ1500. I can't wait to start testing and tuning, this sub looks absolutely beautiful and should sound equally so.

Side Show
01-15-2014, 03:30 AM
ha ha ha you'll need a fascia kit

keep_hope_alive
01-15-2014, 09:41 AM
looks good. well done.

sorry, i didn't read close enough to see that you had 90's MB Quart speakers. otherwise i may have recommended something different. yes, they are nice and probably $400+ back in the 90's. FYI - German Maestro is the name of the company that has the same staff as old MB Quart. I've used their speakers before (Epic and Status) and they are good.

if they are convertible components, you can always swap them with the JBL front/rear.

Chromatic
01-15-2014, 05:51 PM
ha ha ha you'll need a fascia kit

??

Chromatic
01-15-2014, 06:00 PM
Even though both the stock and aftermarket have double din openings, generally you still need a dash kit for the trim pieces and to ensure a flush finish. Here's exactly what you need from the looks of things. FRYS.com*|*METRA (http://www.frys.com/product/5027025?source=googleps&gclid=CMXUiqnM_7sCFUsV7AodMzEAmw)

I don't get it. Why would I need a dash kit? This thing was mounted perfectly flush last Friday when I unscrewed and pulled it out. Why would I need some new kit to put it back in? That makes zero sense to me.

I did snap one little plastic leg off the rectangle trim piece.. so I went ahead and ordered another one.. this kit:

http://i.seimg.net/images/26229/big/met-997602.jpg

Just to replace it.. but the problem still exists .. even with a new piece it's not flushing up (there's a bit of gap on the sides mostly.. that wasn't there last week) .

Guess there's no magical trick.. I'm at the point where I guess after doing all the hard work I get to go pay a shop $100 to put a trim piece on.. humiliating!




Anyways, it looks great otherwise. Glad to see you got everything back together without any mishaps. You should also put your build log on one of the Z forums. People are always looking for how-to's with pictures. Even if you don't go into any great detail, just the pictures of yours alone would be worth a lot to plenty of people online.


Thanks. Sounds great too. -- I did put the install log on the biggest Z forum on the net.



I also wanted to say that I liked your idea with the bass knob. I did something similar, dremeling out a path, but located mine on the topside of the dash opening above the head unit. That way it would be both concealed and easily accessible.


Appreciate it. I spent a minute or 10 going around the car in the "Driving position" moving my hand around to see where I might want it.. There was a good spot up behind the stick shifter.. (unused botton notches/pop out panels).. but it was too close to the shifter and I'd constantly be banging my hand on the shift knob regardless of height.

I thought about putting it up flush mount from behind in the front dash around the head unit.. But decided nah,.. I don't want to drill a hole in the dash to be honest.. then I popped the console storage area in the middle.. and thought,.. yeah, .. this is perfect it's "stealth" if you will.. and easy to reach.. Cord run was like 3 feet at most,.. Just dremeled a small hole (You can squeeze larger objects than the hole through .. I've found out with this install..) -- Which also have an advantage of acting like a backing reinforcement so whatever it is doesn't get pulled out. Then I thought do I want to just screw this thing into this.. or what..

I'm more of the type to not drill panels of the car if I don't have to. I had bought 15ft of Industrial velcro .. So I said I'll give it a try. Worked like a charm.. So no real "damage" to the car,.. and there's a tray that has a cup holder, and compartments that can go in that slot I pulled out (and am leaving out).. When I go to sell years from now I can put that tray in and not have to worry about it.. but most likely I won't remove anything from the car.. except MAYBE the MB Quarts from rear because they are sort of a speaker you can't buy anymore.



BTW, I just got my XCON 15 in tonight, so check back in a few weeks, I'm planning on putting up a build log for the enclosure I'll be designing for the back hatch. The sub is going to be running at one ohm off a Sundown SAZ1500. I can't wait to start testing and tuning, this sub looks absolutely beautiful and should sound equally so.

Looking forward to it!

Chromatic
01-15-2014, 06:03 PM
looks good. well done.



Thank you sir.




sorry, i didn't read close enough to see that you had 90's MB Quart speakers. otherwise i may have recommended something different. yes, they are nice and probably $400+ back in the 90's. FYI - German Maestro is the name of the company that has the same staff as old MB Quart. I've used their speakers before (Epic and Status) and they are good.



Oh.. so my beloved German company that made the MB Quarts I have still exists under another name? Awesome information! Now I know , in the future, .. to buy Epic and/or Status speakers. Sweet.




if they are convertible components, you can always swap them with the JBL front/rear.

They are not convertible components. They are Coaxial.. twitter attached across woofer with plastic "beams" if you will. I have already figured out how to MAKE them components.. cutting it the easy part.. the wiring of the tweeter a little more tricky .. but it's doable..

Do I have the balls to cut up my MBquarts? At this point, .. no thanks.

Chromatic
01-16-2014, 02:36 AM
I'm posting this in my threads I'm keeping up with here,.. Due to buying a new Headunit from BestBuy tomorrow. (Read to see why)

**If you don't want to read this post.. I would like some help picking out a headunit from Bestbuy (I'm doing 18months interest free.. all I can do this month) -- The "must haves" are Double Din - Touch Screen - Built In Bluetooth - 4V Pre-outs (not 2v) - and 3 RCA Pre-outs (OR, 2 RCA Pre-outs and A "Sub-out") --- Go to the bottom of the post and you will see a link I made that takes you right to the headunits at bestbuy to scan through and help me pick one. Budget around $300-$550. Thanks **

Well good news (Car is finished completely), and really.. really bad news (Head Unit stopped working!).

I figured out how to flush the head unit.. I just grabbed the dremel for the billionth time and opened up the holes and was able to flush it.

I buttoned everything back up.. turned the key! -- And,..nothing from the headunit.. no lights, no screen... then it starts this constant beeping.

Beep beep.... beep beep...... beep beep... and it never stops.

I was like this is bad..

I took it ALL apart again,.. checked all the wiring.. (Good)

I pulled all wires off headunit,.. and checked fuse -- Even put a new one in. (Good)

At this point I was like.. I don't think this is going to work again. But I continued.. over the next 2-3 hours I pulled every Fuse from the vehicle and independently checked them. Yes, really. (All good).

I went online.. nothing much about just 2 beeps, pause.. 2 beeps pause.. 2 beeps.. forever.. and no lights, no screen display .. on a Pioneer headunit.. or my specific headunit the Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD . I found a FEW help threads on the issue.. and every single one of them the person ended up taking it out for service and the unit was DEAD.

I read the entire manual on my model online.. No mention of "beeps" .. Did mention a reset button. So I pressed and held it.. nothing. I did that another 20 times in different ways.

So I was like ok.. I'll pull the battery cables and let it sit for an hour. (Did nothing).

I was out of ideas.. Everything I could think of.. I did. And I figured there would be a million topics about this online,.. but I couldn't find them.

SO.. I'm assuming I need a new headunit.

So the only UPSIDE to this is this headunit doesn't have Bluetooth in it.. and it's like $200 just for the adapter to enable it.. so,.. the new headunit WILL have bluetooth , to make it not just a carbon copy of what I have. I'd like GPS, but they are $200+ more dollars generally.

The good news? I finished the car. Everything is in.. nothing broken.. it's back like she was. Again.. camera is taking grainy pics.. but here she is:

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5476/11976262193_aa3a21ac36.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11976262193/)

Now.. here's the deal. My intuition tells me the HU is just not going to work again.

So,.. I really can't order one online at the moment,.. and it's really ****** to have done 40+ hours of work with this and now it doesn't work cause of the HU.

SO.. I do have a good best buy account.. with 18 months interest free.. I always pay single purchases off in less than 6 months from there.

So while I don't think you guys can give me a magical "fix" for this headunit (If you've heard/read or seen this issue with a Pioneer headunit and KNOW an absolute way to fix it, please tell.)

But otherwise -- I'm now in the market to get another headunit and fast.. like tomorrow fast.

I'm limited to Bestbuy. Surprisingly they have a decent selection.

I DID notice some of the ones I preferred had 2V pre-outs instead of 4V preouts.. And some of these with 2V pre-outs were top of the line $750+ headunits.

So here's the criteria. Must have 4V preouts (must have 3 sets.. or, 2 sets, and a sub woofer set of "preouts, aka: RCA's) (As I'm running fronts, rears, and the sub off three pair of RCA's.)

To make this have an "upside".. it must have built in Blue tooth. I've wanted that , and never had it in any vehicle in my life. So might as well.

So (must haves), Double Din - Touch Screen - Blue Tooth Built In - and 4V Preouts (3 sets of RCA's, or 2 sets and a Sub out).

Can/will you guys can help recommend the best one in a $300-$550 pricerange (ish).. from bestbuy. I'll even give you the direct link to browse to make it quick for you:

In-Dash with DVD : Best Buy | Double DIN Double DIN - Best Buy (http://tinyurl.com/nxv8ll4)

Help me pick out a good headunit.. I'm probably going to grab it tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks..

NASTY08IMPALA
01-16-2014, 02:50 AM
Chromatic; id get the kenwood ddx419 its what i run and i got it at best buy ..i love it ..does all u listed and more.i think it was 350 or 399.looks like the ddx419 is discontinued and replaced with the ddx470 for 335...has all u need

Chromatic
01-16-2014, 03:12 AM
Chromatic; id get the kenwood ddx419 its what i run and i got it at best buy ..i love it ..does all u listed and more.i think it was 350 or 399.looks like the ddx419 is discontinued and replaced with the ddx470 for 335...has all u need

@Nasty08impala

Thanks. The ddx470 looks like a great choice. Good price,.. it's NOT Pioneer (I don't think I'll ever buy a pioneer head unit in the future (I didn't buy this one.. it came with the car) ).. The pioneers seem prone to problems.. and PICO issues , ie: RCA issues with whine , etc. The DDX470 is $335. That's a really good deal,.. and is Kenwood.. Kenwood has always made great Head units.. (actually was the brand I had in my last full on "system".)

Few questions on that model.

It has 2 Pre-outs. It does have a third set of RCA's for sub right?

It mentions it has a crossover for the Sub,.. but nothing else. I was controlling my front and sub with the decks crossover. Does this headunit not have a "highpass" xover?

And, online it says it's available in my local stores.. so that may be the one!

I may even get Bestbuy to install it.. I'm honestly SICK of tearing things apart on this.. It's all back together.. all the stuff I bought,.. Front components, Rear MB Quarts,.. Stealth box.. JL 10" Sub.. PPI 5 Channel Amp.. 4 Gauge wiring kit, 14gauge wire.. amp rack, fabrication all over the car.. etc is DONE. I'm not a fan of Bestbuy installing stuff.. but a headunit.. Come on.. Even those morons can successfully put in a deck.. and with their installation fee,.. It's warranted forever, literally. So if it dies, etc.. They replace it no questions.

Think it's $99 for their installation, steep -- but 40+ hours .. I'm done.. lol.

Milk Mayne
01-16-2014, 03:12 AM
I recommended the same thing in his other thread. I think you'd be pleased with it. It has all the functions you're looking for and looks really good, even has a volume knob, which is a must for me since I hate using touchscreen volume controls.

NASTY08IMPALA
01-16-2014, 03:27 AM
@Nasty08impala

Thanks. The ddx470 looks like a great choice. Good price,.. it's NOT Pioneer (I don't think I'll ever buy a pioneer head unit in the future (I didn't buy this one.. it came with the car) ).. The pioneers seem prone to problems.. and PICO issues , ie: RCA issues with whine , etc. The DDX470 is $335. That's a really good deal,.. and is Kenwood.. Kenwood has always made great Head units.. (actually was the brand I had in my last full on "system".)

Few questions on that model.

It has 2 Pre-outs. It does have a third set of RCA's for sub right?

It mentions it has a crossover for the Sub,.. but nothing else. I was controlling my front and sub with the decks crossover. Does this headunit not have a "highpass" xover?

And, online it says it's available in my local stores.. so that may be the one!

I may even get Bestbuy to install it.. I'm honestly SICK of tearing things apart on this.. It's all back together.. all the stuff I bought,.. Front components, Rear MB Quarts,.. Stealth box.. JL 10" Sub.. PPI 5 Channel Amp.. 4 Gauge wiring kit, 14gauge wire.. amp rack, fabrication all over the car.. etc is DONE. I'm not a fan of Bestbuy installing stuff.. but a headunit.. Come on.. Even those morons can successfully put in a deck.. and with their installation fee,.. It's warranted forever, literally. So if it dies, etc.. They replace it no questions.

Think it's $99 for their installation, steep -- but 40+ hours .. I'm done.. lol.
yes it has 2 sets and. A sub out all 4v and yes it has hp xovers ..pretty decent eq for the money

---------- Post added at 02:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:26 AM ----------


I recommended the same thing in his other thread. I think you'd be pleased with it. It has all the functions you're looking for and looks really good, even has a volume knob, which is a must for me since I hate using touchscreen volume controls.

Yea i love mine for the money

Side Show
01-16-2014, 04:15 AM
press and reset the unit on the front, make sure that the face can still open. also make sure you removed any transporting bolts from the player. how did it die?

Side Show
01-16-2014, 04:17 AM
plz make sure your wiring correct so you don't cook another screen.... confused what happened to it

keep_hope_alive
01-16-2014, 01:47 PM
Kenwood eXcelon

Chromatic
01-16-2014, 06:18 PM
press and reset the unit on the front, make sure that the face can still open. also make sure you removed any transporting bolts from the player. how did it die?

I pressed reset numerous times in all configurations.. No go.

The front face will not open.. It just beeps... That's it.

Transporting bolts from the player? Are these bolts in it when it's new? -- Because this headunit has been in this car since 2009. The original owner installed it (or had it installed) 5 years ago.. It just came with the car.



plz make sure your wiring correct so you don't cook another screen.... confused what happened to it

Wiring is fine. I Only tapped into the remote, and front speaker wires .. and cut and capped the rear speaker wires. No major 're-wire" back there really. My front speaker wires are run with 14g speaker wire up to the headunit.. and spliced in to factory wiring. The rear speakers are all dedicated wire straight to amp,.. Sub is dedicated wire as well. I have 3 sets of RCA's off the back of the headunit.. Front , Rear, and Sub - Preouts.

As for the screen.. This is part of the reason I'm considering letting Bestbuy install it. I can obviously install a headunit from all I've done. This isn't a case of it never worked after I touched it.

What I think happened is When I was handling it, and putting trim pieces that go on the SIDE next to the console/headunit.. I had to really bang on them hard to get them into place. I can only think that force killed it.

I've read online where people with these pioneer head units have hit some potholes and such and theirs died.. and did the same beeping. They took it in for service and it was toast. The pioneers are really not that well made.. or shall I say, they are prone to premature death + Blowing Pre-amp which results in engine whine. Notorious for RCA pre-out noise/ground issues.

Chromatic
01-16-2014, 06:27 PM
yes it has 2 sets and. A sub out all 4v and yes it has hp xovers ..pretty decent eq for the money

---------- Post added at 02:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:26 AM ----------



Yea i love mine for the money

Nice to know it has High pass.. . And.. $335.. for built in blue tooth.. can't beat that by much even online. Kenwood brand, I trust.. Is likely more hardy than Pioneer.

And yes.. Analog dials for controls on the left hand side.. that is something I missed with the Pioneer that was built for the most screen real-estate possible. Sort of combining best of both worlds here.

I don't know bestbuy's "install hours".. I guess they install open to close. Hope I can get in there pick one out and they can immediately put it in , which shouldn't take anyone more than 30minutes-45mins at most.

Again, the reason for the bestbuy install (if I go with it).. is just 'warranty'.. and if something does fry.. etc.. It's warranted from them installing it.. So I just drive back up there and they will put a brand new one in no questions asked. Plus I'm just absolutely sick (right now) of installation work. I'll need a few weeks to recover. At the moment it's worth the $50 or $99 (depends on headunit I guess).. fee to install it. I wouldn't let best buy install my speakers, wire the car, sub, amp etc.. But I'll let them put in a headunit. I don't see any harm in that.

Further.. I have done all the work.. All they have to do is remove 6 screws.. one easy to pop off panel.. pull old one out.. and put new one in .. plug in 3 sets of rca's,.. the wiring harness, the satellite radio plug,.. antenna plug.. and so on. Takes a few seconds to "wire it up".. they can feel free to double check that out of course.


But again,.. all I did was splice into remote wire, and front speaker outs behind headunit.. I didn't touch power, ground, and other such wires.

So the only explanation I can possibly come up with for this thing dieing on me is me.. not thinking about the headunit,.. banging on the sides of that console getting the "knee pad" piece to go into place.

I'm going to head over to bestbuy in 30-45minutes now that it's on my mind. If they can't squeeze me in.. Hrmm.. I still want it installed by someone with a warranty.. so maybe I get it today and bring it back tom. for install. Again, just so if anything happens EVER they replace it.. they back their installs 100% forever if you don't ALTER them. Which I'm done with everything.. so no alteration.. except I'll check gains again with new haeadunit even though it's still a 4v preout-.. signals vary slightly from headunit to headunit.

Chromatic
01-17-2014, 01:08 AM
Finished! -- Went and bought the Kenwood DDX470 and BestBuy couldn't install today.. So I just brought it home and installed it.

Here she is done:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/11990754885_9602c54818.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11990754885/)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/11991567776_dc00f08f7a.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11991567776/)

I really like this headunit.. It has more features for Audio.. Built in Front, Rear, and Sub crossovers active -- Very handy.

I love the actual volume knob, attenuate button,.. Phone button etc.. Where I don't have to look away from the road. Still a 6.1" touchscreen and DVD player.. best of both worlds.

Bluetooth works excellent,.. It's new for me to have it in my vehicle, so it will get a lot of use.

There is a difference in this HU and the Pioneer one though.

To get the proper voltages when retuning the amp.. I had to bump the gains higher using this Headunit.. Despite it having 4V pre-outs as the Pioneer had.

Particularly the Sub channel.. Sub channel is probably 85% or so now to get it to the level needed. (That's at a 79hz tone.. at 40hz.. the voltage is WAY higher.)

The fronts/rears didn't need much of a bump.. about 10% compared to the Pioneer.

Sounds great though!

And.... she's done! My hands can heal.

Thanks for all your help.

NASTY08IMPALA
01-17-2014, 01:11 AM
Finished! -- Went and bought the Kenwood DDX470 and BestBuy couldn't install today.. So I just brought it home and installed it.

Here she is done:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/11990754885_9602c54818.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11990754885/)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/11991567776_dc00f08f7a.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/11991567776/)

I really like this headunit.. It has more features for Audio.. Built in Front, Rear, and Sub crossovers active -- Very handy.

I love the actual volume knob, attenuate button,.. Phone button etc.. Where I don't have to look away from the road. Still a 6.1" touchscreen and DVD player.. best of both worlds.

Bluetooth works excellent,.. It's new for me to have it in my vehicle, so it will get a lot of use.

There is a difference in this HU and the Pioneer one though.

To get the proper voltages when retuning the amp.. I had to bump the gains higher using this Headunit.. Despite it having 4V pre-outs as the Pioneer had.

Particularly the Sub channel.. Sub channel is probably 85% or so now to get it to the level needed. (That's at a 79hz tone.. at 40hz.. the voltage is WAY higher.)

The fronts/rears didn't need much of a bump.. about 10% compared to the Pioneer.

Sounds great though!

And.... she's done! My hands can heal.

Thanks for all your help.

Told ya .lol ..and i leave my sub level on +10 thats where u get the 4v at anything less than +10 with be less voltage..i always set my amps at max level so i know i cant exceed them and tear stuff up

Chromatic
01-17-2014, 01:20 AM
Told ya .lol ..and i leave my sub level on +10 thats where u get the 4v at anything less than +10 with be less voltage..i always set my amps at max level so i know i cant exceed them and tear stuff up

I set the Sub level to +10 as well :)

Good call on the headunit... It's nice, can't decide If I want to leave it on default where the colors rotate or just dial the colors into the amber to match the rest of the car.. hence the picture where it's on a reddish color.

As far as setting gains to max.. From all I've learned here and elsewhere.. I was under the impression you want to set your gains to match the voltage that equates the rated "RMS" of the speakers you are pushing so you don't mess them up. Pushing my gains to 100% would be pushing more power.. and would cause distortion and clipping as I cranked the volume no?

I dialed this in at Volume 27 of 35.. which is about 77% volume.. I feel like I can push the sub harder with the amp .. When I pushed that level up to 10 it really helped of course.. but this sub has a lot left in it.. however, I don't really need nor want more. This is already insane lol.. These JBL's are now absolutely screaming.. the JBL's do sound better on this Headunit, shrug. The MBQuarts I did have to fade up to 60-80% to front of course.. as they are just crazy loud and high quality.. they overpower the JBL's.

But, I'm glad to get a better tone, and it's actually brighter with this headunit for whatever reason out of the JBL's.

For now I've set the X-over's on the Fronts and Rears at 100hz.. and Sub at 100hz. Considering I listen to Rock/Alternative mostly.. it sounded good to my ears. Didn't hear vocals or anything coming through sub at 100hz crossover (of course I have the amp set as well.. so it's probably actually getting cut off somewhere around 80-85hz from amp.. so the headunit sub X-over is just a redundant "backup" if you will for the sub.

NASTY08IMPALA
01-17-2014, 01:29 AM
I set the Sub level to +10 as well :)

Good call on the headunit... It's nice, can't decide If I want to leave it on default where the colors rotate or just dial the colors into the amber to match the rest of the car.. hence the picture where it's on a reddish color.

As far as setting gains to max.. From all I've learned here and elsewhere.. I was under the impression you want to set your gains to match the voltage that equates the rated "RMS" of the speakers you are pushing so you don't mess them up. Pushing my gains to 100% would be pushing more power.. and would cause distortion and clipping as I cranked the volume no?

I dialed this in at Volume 27 of 35.. which is about 77% volume.. I feel like I can push the sub harder with the amp .. When I pushed that level up to 10 it really helped of course.. but this sub has a lot left in it.. however, I don't really need nor want more. This is already insane lol.. These JBL's are now absolutely screaming.. the JBL's do sound better on this Headunit, shrug. The MBQuarts I did have to fade up to 60-80% to front of course.. as they are just crazy loud and high quality.. they overpower the JBL's.

But, I'm glad to get a better tone, and it's actually brighter with this headunit for whatever reason out of the JBL's.

For now I've set the X-over's on the Fronts and Rears at 100hz.. and Sub at 100hz. Considering I listen to Rock/Alternative mostly.. it sounded good to my ears. Didn't hear vocals or anything coming through sub at 100hz crossover (of course I have the amp set as well.. so it's probably actually getting cut off somewhere around 80-85hz from amp.. so the headunit sub X-over is just a redundant "backup" if you will for the sub.

Yes it could possibly clip but the hu has a level that it clips at also my kenwood is 29 ...as long as u set the gains with the max level u plan on listening to daily and had the sub at +10 u should be ok .as far as the equation to get the correct rms it will get u close but no way of telling if at that level clipping occurs ..only way is with dd1/oscope.and yes i overset my filters on the amp then adjust them at the hu ..really nice to be able to do that on a sub400 dd

NASTY08IMPALA
01-17-2014, 01:31 AM
I matched my color to match the bluish green of chevy factory gauges ..looks clean..change it to amber

Chromatic
01-17-2014, 01:38 AM
@NASTY08IMPALA -- Have a question. This headunit wouldn't power on at all until I hooked the antenna cable into it. Why? Does that mean it's using the Antenna as a ground?

I'm noticing a TINY bit of whine with nothing playing.. (very faint).. and I get what feels like a static electric shock when I get in and out of the car.. I do have cloth seats,.. but the Pioneer headunit didn't do this, at least not the shock.

Any easy way to fix this without pulling the headunit out? IE: Ground loop eliminator in the rca's or something? The whine doesn't bother me really cause it's so quiet... but the shock seems odd. I have my ground firmly bolted 3 feet away to the sheetmetal in the back of the car.

Any tips? I've read a few areas online the last 20 minutes about this problem.. and 3/4th's of the people say it's static electricity lol.. but it didn't do this before. So that doesn't seem right.

No fuses are blowing or anything of course.

NASTY08IMPALA
01-17-2014, 01:43 AM
@NASTY08IMPALA -- Have a question. This headunit wouldn't power on at all until I hooked the antenna cable into it. Why? Does that mean it's using the Antenna as a ground?

I'm noticing a TINY bit of whine with nothing playing.. (very faint).. and I get what feels like a static electric shock when I get in and out of the car.. I do have cloth seats,.. but the Pioneer headunit didn't do this, at least not the shock.

Any easy way to fix this without pulling the headunit out? IE: Ground loop eliminator in the rca's or something? The whine doesn't bother me really cause it's so quiet... but the shock seems odd. I have my ground firmly bolted 3 feet away to the sheetmetal in the back of the car.

Any tips? I've read a few areas online the last 20 minutes about this problem.. and 3/4th's of the people say it's static electricity lol.. but it didn't do this before. So that doesn't seem right.

No fuses are blowing or anything of course.
No idea never had that issue before

Chromatic
01-17-2014, 02:42 AM
No idea never had that issue before

Roger. Just went back out and listened to it for an hour lol.. Went into the "Q tuning" or whatever it's called.. and made it sound even better.. I must like some serious brightness cause I pushed the "highs/treble" up to +7.. And they were already good.

Those JBL's even cutoff at 100hz hit hard on the 6.5" mids.. I had The fugee's killing me softly playing.. and the bass note played throughout the song is around 100hz'ish.. and you could feel those things next to your leg. Almost pushed them to cutoff at 120hz.. but didn't want to lose 20hz between sub at 100 and mids at 120.. (Only was thinking to push them cause I like to "protect" my speakers.. but meh.. they weren't that much if something were to happen to the JBL mids..).

Then I went to the Thriller album by Michael Jackson.. and played Beat it and Billie Jean (lol...) -- and it sounds like I've never heard it before.. all sorts of noises I don't remember.. like being in a movie or something.

Yes.. I'm thoroughly impressed with how this turned out. Last time I sat in my car (not moving) just to listen to music was 10 years ago or more..

As I'm typing this I can feel my ears .. lol. I guess that's the highs people talk about giving them a headache or something. But.. I had it cranked a bit.. I guess we do have to be careful with these sound systems.. you will lose hearing if you have it cranked for years on end no matter your age.

I put a CD in last.. and wow.. sounded even cleaner.

This time the car didn't shock me once.. shrug. But the whine is still there.. just barely though.. can't hear it when music is on at all.. but it's slightly audible when I have volume down to zero and I rev the engine. Not a big deal to me.. I know I can throw a ground loop eliminator in line and get rid of that without having to trace it down.. done it a few times with home stereo systems. I may even have one here somewhere,.. But not sure where I'd put it (as the one I have is RCA to RCA).. and this thing is fed 3 pairs.. hrmm.

Anyhow,.. Whine can be many different things I know.. from antenna, bad ground,.. exposed wire somewhere to Power wire interfering with RCA's.. Though I can't really spread out my power wire and rca's by the amp any more.

Side Show
01-17-2014, 02:44 AM
welldone champ, hope ya happy

Chromatic
01-17-2014, 02:57 AM
welldone champ, hope ya happy

Thanks. I won't lie.. was one hel.l of a job.. But you do get satisfaction from doing it yourself,.. and frankly the only way to get it done right is really to do it yourself,.. depending on how picky you are I guess. No one cares about your own possessions more than yourself I suppose.

I am happy.. sounds phenomenal.. glad to have it and to enjoy it + now with the Kenwood DDX470 I have bluetooth plus some other nice features that I have wanted for some time now.

If anyone is on the hunt for a headunit.. I do strongly recommend the Kenwood DDX470.. nice UI,.. tons of options, Front/Rear and Sub active X-overs.. plus analog controls on the left as well. Also runs $349 at Bestbuy.. and online I'm sure it's cheaper. Really can't find anything cheaper that has built in bluetooth, 3 sets of RCA's at 4V, DVD player, CD player, mp3, USB, Auxillary, rear view, blah blah..

Perhaps in the future anyone with this particular car can grab some ideas from this thread.

Take care,

Chromatic
01-26-2014, 06:56 AM
Done!

Put the Reverse Camera on the Driver side -- It's super "stealth" ... I like it, really no need for brighter tag lights, but I have them on the way anyways.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5473/12148949215_506105b914.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12148949215/)

Then here's the image from the $24 Camera -- (Keep in mind it's at night)

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2887/12149197123_bae7027a74.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12149197123/)


Only thing I really noticed was it doesn't have any numbers.. But it's very accurate and super center from the start. Personally I don't "need" the numbers whether they are in Meters, Feet, etc..

I did test the "zones" Red, Yellow and Green. When I get up the "red" edge.. I got out and looked and I have about 5-6 inches till I am about to hit what is showing on that Red edge,.. I like a little room for error.

Did a TON of wire work,..

I completely and utterly gutted out the Pioneer Sirius XM system in the car.. and it was two boxes one on each side (Driver and Passenger side) -- I pulled all wires, and I even figured out how to get the Magnetic Antenna off without cutting anything. So now I have a Pioneer Sirius XM system that's 100% complete (and I think the original owner never turned off his subscription.. doh) that I can sell for something.

I GROUNDED the headunit,.. man was that needed. I decided to run a slightly larger ground wire down to the floor where some large bolts were,.. and it was a super solid ground (be good enough for any wattage amp).

When I hooked the headunit back up ,.. I left the antenna out,.. and it fired right up,.. so I know the "lack" of a ground was an issue for the car.

Plus no more SHOCKS.. that lack of a ground was causing the shock, I knew it wasn't normal.

I wired in the Illumination wire (although it doesn't do anything with this headunit that I've found out yet,.. maybe a setting I need to adjust.)

I wired in the Power to the Power Antenna Amplifier (FM Radio now is clear, yay.. that wasn't wired in on the old headunit.)

Obviously wired in the Reverse wire, and plugged in the Video In RCA I ran from the Tag.

Pulled out two USB cables I had piggybacked -- And "wired"/plugged in the Kenwood KCA iP-202 cable,.. One into the Ipod/Aux line on back of headunit,.. and run the USB female connector up into the cubby above headunit.

Ran a Male to Male 3.5mm to another 3.5m Jack (I think it might be an output,.. meh.) But it's in the Cubby just in case.

I did an unbelievable amount of "cleanup" wiring. I had it all apart and was looking at previous installs and where every wire actually went, and there was all sorts of wires tapped in going nowhere, wires that were spliced together for whatever reason with like 1-2" pieces of wire, etc. So I cut a ton of wire out and Soldered new single connections in just for peace of mind.

Cleaned up the Reverse Camera wiring from back to front last. Took a little longer than I thought, but not bad. Really took my time Zip tieing and using a little tape where necessary, Runs all along factory wiring that's grommeted.

Took me some hours doing this.. Near the end (the whole time I had the Headunit on listening to music.. ) The Music stopped, then would come back on.. I was like, hrmm CD? Then I started to hear a click off.. click back on.. and eventually it just clicked again and stayed off.

I was like,.. oh no, what now! I better not have to pull that **** headunit out again. Looked at amp and sure enough it was in protect mode (but protect light was sort of flickering).

I was like, maybe it's just a low battery (I had no idea amps went into Protect when Voltage dropped low enough).

Sure enough the Battery was 11.xx volts.. Just to test I tried to start the car, and clickkkkkk.. I actually breathed a sigh of relief lol. -- Hooked up my Battery Charger on 6amps @ 12v DC,.. let it charge for 30 minutes or so, had a meter on it, and it got up to about 13 volts'ish.. and I pulled charged off, and it fired right up.

Turned music back on with car running and everything was fine! Yay, for once I finish up and everything is koscher, lol.

I'm glad to have the reverse Camera,.. but I'm really happier to be honest about the headunit being Grounded now. **** car doesn't shock me anymore, and I know that shock couldn't have been "Good" for the electrical system and equipment in there.

I think I've just about exhausted everything "Electrical/Stereo" wise now..

Sooooo.. Time to shift to Performance mods haha..

Thanks for all you guys help and advice,..

jackreacher
01-27-2014, 01:49 PM
Wow man great car with great spec and modification looks great...

Chromatic
01-27-2014, 06:15 PM
Wow man great car with great spec and modification looks great...
jackreacher ; Thank you! Was hard work, but doing things yourself really gives you a sense of accomplishment and you learn a great deal of knowledge and a "skill set" of sorts you didn't have previously. Plus when doing it yourself you take the care most others just wouldn't, because it's your "baby" if you will. I'm not as knowledgeable as some of the people who post here, but I feel I've gone from Amateur to at least the ability to help some others who are in my previous position with questions, etc. -- And the main purpose of this build log was to give anyone with the same car, or even a different vehicle some ideas on the process from A to Z. As this forum really has the best collection of build logs on the Internet for Car Audio.

Do you have a setup in your vehicle?

Chromatic
02-02-2014, 08:06 AM
Intake Holes (Not perfection here.. but not finished):
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3731/12062012894_6ef06bcaf5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12062012894/)

Fan Wired via Relay - mounted on spacers Pulling Cabin Air:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5484/12061615715_f2450be372.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12061615715/)

The holes aren't perfect,.. but I am not finished with it. I am going to get a vent and essentially cut a box out from the edge of the outer holes,.. and then place a vent so the outside looks better, and the airflow should be a bit better as well.

Cleaned up the Fabrication work -- It's finito now.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3806/12267497166_31a2aac998.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12267497166/)

pickup1
02-02-2014, 09:26 AM
Got to watch that low voltage...... got lucky this time.

Chromatic
02-02-2014, 09:32 AM
Got to watch that low voltage...... got lucky this time.

Yeah.. I had never experienced an Amp going to protect with low Voltage. I got lucky? Is low voltage a quick way to Fry an amp? If so.. hel.l yeah I got lucky. Was just because I was doing work with the car off and so many accessory lights on, etc for so long.

Considering I'm literally 100 percent done with that final Fabrication bit I just posted,.. There should be no reason voltage should be an issue any time soon.. Battery is less than a month old,.. Alternator is healthy with 27k miles on it.. Charge is in perfect range on the meter when car is idling.. And the 900watt amp That I'm running 580watts RMS off of I don't think is too much for my stock charging system to handle.

pickup1
02-02-2014, 10:10 AM
Yea, you just was listening too long before the battery pooped out.Same thing on my altima, I added a small hc600 to the back to help out on that.
Low voltage can sometimes kill an amp...might want to invest in a voltmeter if you listen to the system with the car not running.

Chromatic
02-02-2014, 01:20 PM
Yea, you just was listening too long before the battery pooped out.Same thing on my altima, I added a small hc600 to the back to help out on that.
Low voltage can sometimes kill an amp...might want to invest in a voltmeter if you listen to the system with the car not running.

Have one in the car already.. I just didn't know the "Cutoff" point for the amp.. Which is a bit under 12volts. I don't typically listen to it for LONG periods of time with the car off.. But this battery is strong.. I watched a DVD loudly for 2-3 hours and it didn't affect the amp or car starting.. I think much more than that is pushing it.

When the voltage dropped so low was when I was doing actual work with the system going.. had all the interior lights on,.. doors open, hatch up.. etc.. and was pulling ridiculous current with the engine not running.

The one in the car is very accurate.. compared it to the DMM on the battery and it's dead on.

But definitely great to know that low voltage fry's amps.. I thought it was no big deal other than a low battery,.. and the amp just went to protect due to sensing a voltage below X. Now I know,..