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95RAM
05-22-2004, 06:59 PM
I have that heard that infinity speakers were really harsh. Yet, im thinking of getting them because there arent too many spaekers that fit my front door. Plus they look like nice speakers. Can somebody who has used these or know somebody who has please tell me what you think of these speakers.

They are 6.5 inch 6002si

infinity speakers (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-x8T3dJbTRmP/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?I=1086002SI)

95RAM
05-23-2004, 05:41 PM
how bout this:

kicker 02K60 or

Rockford Fosgate FRC4206U or

the infinitys

all 99 dollars and 6.5 inches

any suggestions?

TwistedVisions
05-23-2004, 05:56 PM
I have the reference infinity 6x9's and they don't sound harsh at all and im pleased with them. Then again i dont' know how they compare to the 6.5's since yours will be circle and there your door speakers and mine are in the rear. Thats a good price for them there usually like 150. Have you tried looking into MB Quart and CDT componet speakers? I haven't owned those brands but after doing some research on this website they seem to be the best speakers but then again there going to cost alot more then $100 dollars. How much are you trying to spend anyways?? Sorry i couldn't be more help hopefully someone with 6.5 will reply to this.

BTW. Have you checked out www.thezeb.com yet? They have those cdt speakers for half price in the size your looking for. Also the mb quarts are also around the same price as those infinity's. To be safe i would check to see if there is a dealer near you using that dealer locator on www.mbquart.com to see if you like the sound of them. To bad the only cdt stores are in CALI so it would be a gamble to go with them unless you can rely on the opinions on this website.

fossil99ca
05-24-2004, 08:21 AM
I have the 605CS component speakers mixed with a Kappa Perfect10Ē sub. I find they mix very well together for SQ. I paid $189 Canadian ($130 USD) for the components. I think Crutchfield is one of the more expensive places to buy equipment (IMO) but they do have good service from what I here. On Etronics you could have the components for $20 more witch in my opinion is a better value. Or see if you can take this price to an Infinity dealer and see if they will match it (thatís what I did). Etronics is not an Infinity dealer and warranty becomes and issue, although I have not had problems.

http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=inf605cs&store=&catid=362
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=inf6002si&store=&catid=358

My Infinity speakers are good (not best). I like the silk dome tweeter which I do run at minus 3db with one out of phase. It has really good mounting options. The mid bass is accurate and punchy but if you are looking for tones of mid-bass out of them they will not produce. You really need a sub with them. The 602SI wonít be any better.

If you are running your speakers off a head unit and the 3/8Ē mounting depth makes a difference they will be a good choice (you can find them cheaper though). If you have a decent amp, I would wait, save your money and look for some of the options mentioned above (i.e. Diamond Audio, CDT, etc) or at least go with the components for $20 more. BTW Ė donít let looks fool you when buying equipment. Do your research and listen to people who know.

yosshimura
05-24-2004, 08:36 AM
I was going to get Kenwood Excilons 5 1/4 this wknd, and got Infinity Kappa's thinking they were better. Are they any good? I wanted to run a Punch amp powering them. How do they compare to MB Quartz or Focal?

thanks :clap:

fossil99ca
05-24-2004, 08:49 AM
I was going to get Kenwood Excilons 5 1/4 this wknd, and got Infinity Kappa's thinking they were better. Are they any good? I wanted to run a Punch amp powering them. How do they compare to MB Quartz or Focal?

thanks :clap:

You get what you pay for in most cases. There are a ton of reviews on these speakers on this sight and others. Search this sight or try this:


http://www.carreview.com/pscCar,Audio/Speakers/PLS_1805_912crx.aspx

95RAM
05-25-2004, 01:39 AM
I dont want components, i would rather have coaixials due to ease of installation blah, cheaper, blah. my installation depth on doors is just barely 2 inches. Also plan on getting kenwood x579 head unit w/o an amp for now.(or maybe never). I would like these apeakers to give some bass. It sounds like the infinitys dont deliver in that area. SO, should i get the rockfords or the kickers.

Thank you,
Bone Head

TwistedVisions
05-25-2004, 08:06 AM
If bass is what you going for i would get those kicker resolution midbass speakers,the "RMB6" comes in a 6 1/2 size :). Far as price goes im not sure but the rms watts is 125 which would need an amp. Even if you didn't get the midbass ones your still going to need an amp if you buy an upper end 6 1/2 because your hu won't put out enough power to them.I would listen to the kickers before buying them,usually most of the bigger car audio stores in your town would carry them and far as rockfords,best buy is the first place i can think of that carries them,good luck.

B.T.W. Do you already have subs or are you just playing on getting really good 6 1/2's for bass? If you don't have any subs and don't plan on getting any i would get those 8 inch midbass kickers they are 2 1/4 inch's thick which might be a tight fit but im sure with some work you could get them to fit :omg:

fossil99ca
05-25-2004, 07:07 PM
Still need a Amp to move those 8" ers. Sounds like its not in the budget.

The infinities dont deliver in this area but most speakers in this range dont either. Personally, I would get some speakers that you can drive off you head unit. You can always expand into the rear in time to add fill. Then save some money and get a small sub and amp to fill in the lower end. You wont be able to have it all on a budget like that.

Even better, if you just want more power to the music. Run the stock HU and speakers and save a little more money and just get a mono amp and a sub to add to what you have. You can get amps with high level in-puts, run your rear speakers positive and negative into the amp, and get a good sub that you can build on (new front speakers and HU) down the road when funds are available. Most car systems are missing among other things mostly bass. I've never done this before but all things considered, I dont see anything wrong with it. Just dont go out and get two twelves or anything, I'm thinking one 8" or 10". Unless you like that "old school rumble". This also takes into account what you have stock insn't 20-year-old POS.

95RAM
05-26-2004, 02:11 PM
I think i am going to get polk 6.5 inch db components for the front doors. ALso, if i were to put midbass speakers in the back would the sound good back there. There is no space limitation back there.

Thank you,
Bone Head

95RAM
05-27-2004, 12:43 AM
i think a better way would be to get the cdt components for the front and cdt midrange speakers for the back

sound good.

fossil99ca
05-28-2004, 07:50 AM
i think a better way would be to get the cdt components for the front and cdt midrange speakers for the back

sound good.


Still need amp to push those CDT's

95RAM
05-28-2004, 03:19 PM
yeah ill use a profile or a us acoustics. But that setup would sound nice? yes?

fossil99ca
05-28-2004, 07:27 PM
LOL, youíve just gone from a $99 install to running 2 pair of CDTís with amps to boot. What about the 2.25Ē mounting depth and your space limitations. Hey, Iím not knocking you, you just gotta make up your mind what you want, how much you are willing to spend and how much of your own time youíre willing to put in. I canít vouch for your set-up but I can say it will be a lot better than just the $99 dollar speakers. I donít own CDTs but they come highly recommended. These amps, donít know.

My previous recommendations were based on your limited budget. If youíre gonna be running higher fidelity speakers you are into a hole other ball park. You will need to start thinking about a decent head unit to get clean signal to those speakers, pre-outs on the head unit, amp power kits, amp space and mounting, etc. etc. You are not just bolting in replacement speakers anymore.

Sounds like you need to do a rethink :thumbsup

95RAM
05-30-2004, 12:01 AM
i was originally planning on getting a kenwood x579 and two sets of 99 dollar speakers.

thats about $400. the kenwood is nice cause has room for expansion. 3 sets of preamps, etc.....

im just going with cdts. Plus, the cdt comps and the cdt midranges are only about 30 dollars more than the 2 sets of coaxials. The cdt will sounds a whole lot better then the coaxials even if the cdts are not amped.

trungthiendo
05-30-2004, 01:34 AM
if you are gonna get two sets of 99 dollar speakers, i say get a great pair of front components...

cdt, infinity kappas...etc

the back speakers are really only for rear fill, if your front stage is awesome, you won't need it unless its a huge car.

fossil99ca
05-30-2004, 11:46 AM
i was originally planning on getting a kenwood x579 and two sets of 99 dollar speakers.

thats about $400. the kenwood is nice cause has room for expansion. 3 sets of preamps, etc.....

im just going with cdts. Plus, the cdt comps and the cdt midranges are only about 30 dollars more than the 2 sets of coaxials. The cdt will sounds a whole lot better then the coaxials even if the cdts are not amped.

I disagree:

I would speculate that every good review youíve heard on the CDTís are when they are properly amped. Point-out some posts/reviews were some guy says, ďIím under powering my speakers by a 1/4 and everyone just can believe how amazing they are. Why do they even sell amps in the first place when you can run everything off your HU?Ē You canít change the laws of physics.
Running 90 RMS speakers, which could probably handle more than that, off a 22 Watt RMS head unit will not produce the same results. Youíll just end up turning the HU volume up way too high to get any volume out of them, producing less than desired results and maybe damaging them or the HU. Again, I would speculate that they would not sound much better than the infinity component speakers. The highs will sound a lot better at first (then stock) thinking you made the right decision but the mid-base wont have the power or precision theyíre capable of.
Youíre only as good as the weakest link. Do yourself a favor and at least plan for an amp upgrade and watch your HU volume in the meantime. When doing the HU/speaker install it might be cheaper to run RCAís and speaker wire now, than tearing apart your dash/doors twice.
Personally, I would save on the rear drivers and get a 4 channel amp (something like 4 x 90 watts RMS @ 4 ohms). It will be more expensive (or look for used) but this way you power your front speakers at rated power. This will negate the need for rear speakers so much. You can run your rear stock speakers off the HU @ 22 watts for fill at the same time if you want. In time you can expand, you will be either able to drive good rear speakers at 90 watts x 2 or you can bridge the 2 rear channels for a sub at about 360 watts. Make sure you have a LPF on the deck or amp. Iíd go for the sub to fill the lower end, sounds better, wont wreck your front sound stage and it shakes your mirrors and impresses your friends.

Sorry for the long post.

TwistedVisions
05-30-2004, 01:11 PM
I agree with fossil but how can you damage your hu or speakers by underpowering them?? I mean they do distort if you turn them up to loud but don't you blow a speaker by giving it more watts then it can handle?

Redford
05-30-2004, 01:56 PM
the HU amp will start clipping if you turn it too high and that can cause the internal amp to blow as well as the speakers.

fossil99ca
05-30-2004, 02:04 PM
You can damage the speakers with too little power, hereís how. I donít pretend to be an expert, just moderately well informed, so read this.

http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t20


It doesnít say much about the HU amp being damaged but it canít be good for it, running it past its intended output (heat too). I didnít say he canít use the HU to power the speakers, but I believe it is just so tempting to turn the volume higher and higher because the speakers can take it, until you over drive the amps in the HU. Especially running mp3ís like he will, which can be recorded with all different input signals.

As well, the listening enjoyment will be hampered IMO, if you canít use the speakers to their full potential. Its like, ďI just spent $300 for great speakers that I can only listen to at $100 speaker levelsĒ, if you know what I mean. Then buy $100 speakers.

Yes, you do blow speakers if you give them too much power. But this is not what the problem is here. Itís better to have more power available that you donít use, than not having enough power in the first place.

Itís like a car engine. If you only have 4-cyl, 100HP engine (amp) but you drive the car at full throttle all the time to get where you are going, then engine will not last long. If you have a V-8, 200HP engine (amp) and drive it half throttle all the time then the engine will last a long time. Thatís how I see it. You donít stress the equipment and over work it even if you have more power than you need, when you donít use it! Now if the transmission (speaker) is only designed for 100 HP and you drive your 200HP engine at full throttle, youíll blow your transmission (speaker).

If he doesnít drive his amp at full all the time he will be fine but itís money wasted IMO to use the speaker to a ľ of itís potential.

TwistedVisions
05-30-2004, 02:48 PM
I see what your saying fossil that was very helpful that article :). I didn't know what clipping was really until i got on this forum i mean i have turned my head unit volume up to 20 and thats when it starts to clip but now i just keep it around volume 15 where its clear and i can hear the bass without distortion. I mean it said"eventually blow your speakers" i dont' know who could stand listening to there speakers clipping over a period of time i know i couldn't stand it thats why i keep my volume lower. I be glad when i can afford my 4 channel amp so my 300 dollar speakers don't go to waste(not using them to there full potential)

supa_c
05-31-2004, 03:12 AM
what kind of vehicle, sounds like a "burb" or "hoe"

allamricn
05-31-2004, 10:29 AM
I had the same depth issues in my Xterra. I went with the Polk db6500s for my fronts and couldn't be happier. I know they aren't MB Quarts, Focals, etc, but I budgeted everything, and came across a really good deal on them.

As for rears, I totally have depth/tweeter protrusion issues. I am looking for rear fill as well, and might go with the CDT CL-6 coaxials for rear fill. I am running 55x4 Alpine MRV-F340 to my speakers and RF 3001 mono amp for my RF Punch Hx2 sub. I have never heard CDT but I certainly have read that they are awesome for rear fill and they are in the RMS specs of what my Alpine is giving out. I think the CDT coaxials for rear fill are like $50 on the Zeb.com too.

TwistedVisions
05-31-2004, 10:53 AM
What are you talking about supa C?

95RAM
05-31-2004, 03:19 PM
yeah, if you keep your volume at a volume where the hu amp is not clipping, then i am willing to bet that the cdts will sound better then the coaxials.

fossil99ca
05-31-2004, 08:48 PM
yeah, if you keep your volume at a volume where the hu amp is not clipping, then i am willing to bet that the cdts will sound better then the coaxials.

But if they both (coaxial or components) start Popping and Distorting before you realize their full listing bliss, than they both sound like sh**. One will just sound less crappy than the other.
Youíll have your volume set on that quite song just perfect and then the drum solo kicks in (Pink Floyd comes to mind) and then BOOMMMCKACK....BOOMKKEKR.....BOOMKKKKKERR. Youíll be reaching for the volume dial faster than a lit cigarette you just dropped on the carpet of your brand-new ride (not saying you smoke).
Itís all about the weak link. Do what you think best.