PDA

View Full Version : 93 chevy silverado small SQ build



Synastr
09-23-2013, 05:30 PM
Ok, so im about to tackle my truck design. I currentyl will be running two RE audio pro sr subs. 10" My box is going to be like a box under each side and fire the subs towards each other and place the amp in the middle. plexi on the front to see the subs. I figure if i angle the subs towards the front a tad bit I should get a real good sound from them. Im still unsure on porting the boxes or to keep it sealed. Sealed has always sounded great to me, but ill get a louder sound from ported. Either way it will be a unique build for sure. The rear florr hump is going to be removed becuase the truck has a body lift and nothing is under there to even hit. Itll make my box building easier. Ill get pictures once i get started on it. Still thinking ill have to do a seat raise of about 2 inches.

Synastr
09-24-2013, 01:05 PM
So changing ideas, going to throw both subs over on the passenger side under the seat firing forward. running the port toward the driver side, and doing the amp rack under the seat behind the driver. Using winsd with my subs, my port should be tuned around 28-29hz to have a nice flat response line. Port should measure out to be 3" by 12" according to there program. Im just waiting on a router to start so i can get some nice circles. Box is going to be roughly 1.9cft before any speakers or ports, so i figured it all up for a 1.8 cft box. Hopefully it gives me the pucnh i need.

winkychevelle
09-24-2013, 09:33 PM
So changing ideas, going to throw both subs over on the passenger side under the seat firing forward. running the port toward the driver side, and doing the amp rack under the seat behind the driver. Using winsd with my subs, my port should be tuned around 28-29hz to have a nice flat response line. Port should measure out to be 3" by 12" according to there program. Im just waiting on a router to start so i can get some nice circles. Box is going to be roughly 1.9cft before any speakers or ports, so i figured it all up for a 1.8 cft box. Hopefully it gives me the pucnh i need.

I would put the subs on drivers side port passenger side. 8f you have any port noise putting it opposite side of you will help and you want hear the plastic vibrating from the air coming out of the port and hitting the truck panels

Synastr
09-24-2013, 09:57 PM
i thought about that, but most of the sound is going to come from the port, so i would believe it would be louder that way for the driver. ive noticed with a plain ported box thrown on the back seat, its loudest to my ears on the passenger side with port and sub facing forward. so in theory it would be the same under the seat. the box will be either side universal, ao i can always throw it under either side.

winkychevelle
09-24-2013, 10:01 PM
If you port to the side rear corner the box will load off the rear door and amplify the subs out put kinda like subs facing the rear of a trunk car

Synastr
09-24-2013, 10:21 PM
I dont have a 3rd door. I thought about that as well. I can move the port around since my terminal ring is 3in, and so is my port. so ill have it positioned on each side and swap around till i find my sound.

winkychevelle
09-25-2013, 06:52 AM
I dont have a 3rd door. I thought about that as well. I can move the port around since my terminal ring is 3in, and so is my port. so ill have it positioned on each side and swap around till i find my sound.

That can work you need to have at least 2.5cubes of air space though of the box will be real peaky. Unless you are using dayton ho

Synastr
09-25-2013, 06:46 PM
2.5?!? The subs recommend .65 compact or 1.0 optimum. 2.5 seems real large

winkychevelle
09-25-2013, 09:23 PM
2.5?!? The subs recommend .65 compact or 1.0 optimum. 2.5 seems real large

Thats for sealed ported is Like 1.25-1.75. The dayton ho can work in .7 but itd an odd woofer that happens to sound great

cablguy184
09-26-2013, 09:30 AM
I had my origional enclosure sealed and down firing with 2 10s ... sounded great, just needed something more for SQ competition ...

Synastr
09-26-2013, 06:59 PM
No, the .65 to 1.0 is for ported. Sealed is .3 to .5 I believe I'm going to get around 2-2.1 Cft before subs and port. So I think I'll be happy. I'm not going for spl level.

winkychevelle
09-26-2013, 07:08 PM
No, the .65 to 1.0 is for ported. Sealed is .3 to .5 I believe I'm going to get around 2-2.1 Cft before subs and port. So I think I'll be happy. I'm not going for spl level.

Good luck but dont say I didnt tell you better when it flops

Synastr
09-26-2013, 10:59 PM
I'm taking all advice. I just wish I knew whether to stay around recommended or go a bit bigger. I tried winisd with 2.5 Cft and it showed a higher peak at my port hz but wasn't as flat of response. I'm not sure. I've always built an ran sealed boxes.

winkychevelle
09-27-2013, 05:29 PM
I'm taking all advice. I just wish I knew whether to stay around recommended or go a bit bigger. I tried winisd with 2.5 Cft and it showed a higher peak at my port hz but wasn't as flat of response. I'm not sure. I've always built an ran sealed boxes.

I can put money the if you build it bigger and keep tuning low it will sound better.

Winisd is for houses not cars. Good for finding out port legths but not for modeling subs in a car

Synastr
09-27-2013, 09:19 PM
Ok, well I have it tuned to 28-29 hz. I believe I can get right at 2.8'cft feet in the Area Im building by measuring it. But it's a big box. Here's another question. Is a bigger box going to give the sub more power handling? Or smaller box? The subs are rated to 320rms but I want to be able to safely run them at 400-420 each.

winkychevelle
09-27-2013, 09:33 PM
Smaller boxes require more power to reach the same excursion as bigger boxes but too big of a box will cause the sub to sound sloppy.

with that kinda power I wouldnt worry bout the power handling of the sub it should handle around 500w clean power.

Tuning to 28hz will keep you response pretty flat I just hope you have some serious midbass cause over 60hz the subs response is going to suffer. But with an 8inch midbass or serious 6.5 inch midbass its perfectly doable.

I usually cross my mids at 60hz anyway

Synastr
09-27-2013, 11:04 PM
Well I've actually decided to do 6.5 midbass drivers in my kick panels rather than speakers, and then do tweeters, and 4x6 plates up top. Should give me all my frequency across the board :)

Would you recommend going higher on the port? Maybe 30 32?

winkychevelle
09-27-2013, 11:18 PM
Well I've actually decided to do 6.5 midbass drivers in my kick panels rather than speakers, and then do tweeters, and 4x6 plates up top. Should give me all my frequency across the board :)

Would you recommend going higher on the port? Maybe 30 32?

I usually tune to 30 or 32 but unless u play alot of slowed or artificial bass music no one really needs to tune below 36hz.

tuning low in a car helps line up the boxes peak with the cabin gain of a vehicle though and therefore it may flatten out your response.

Synastr
09-27-2013, 11:56 PM
I always heard and read that for the best punchy sound quality bass that I should tune below 35. Somewhere closer to 30

winkychevelle
09-28-2013, 12:41 AM
I always heard and read that for the best punchy sound quality bass that I should tune below 35. Somewhere closer to 30

Usually punchy bass is around 40hz but tuning to 30hz normally sounds better and can result in a box peak of 40hz depending on the vehicle.

its alot of trial and error but tuning below 30hz u are going to lose alot of output with little gain

Synastr
09-28-2013, 02:11 AM
So should I tune to 32? Kinda in the middle of the recomended 35hz and a sq hz

winkychevelle
09-28-2013, 09:30 PM
So should I tune to 32? Kinda in the middle of the recomended 35hz and a sq hz

Thats my opinion but not the all and all right answer each vehicle reacts differently to subs

Synastr
10-01-2013, 03:50 PM
Ok, I took a dual sealed box and knocked the divider out. Ended up with 1.833 cft before displacement. I added a 3" by 8" port which seemed to equate to 32-33hz. Well it sounds great but seems to not really get that low with sound. Is the port actually tuned wrong? Or what might it possibly be tuning too?

Synastr
10-02-2013, 10:01 PM
So i started on my floor. Im cutting out all the trans hump since its lifted and going to make the rear floor flat. Going for a box of 2.5cft before subs and port. Going to hopefully have it done by the weekend.

bbeljefe
10-02-2013, 10:55 PM
I can put money the if you build it bigger and keep tuning low it will sound better.

Winisd is for houses not cars. Good for finding out port legths but not for modeling subs in a car

WinISD is written for modeling loudspeaker systems. Math is the same in a car as it is in a house, a symphony hall or a boat. It's up to the user to understand that the graphs WinISD shows reflect loudspeaker performance in an anechoic chamber and it's also up to the user to know how a room or vehicle cabin will most likely affect that graph.


OP, in order to get a reasonably flat response from those woofers and maintain a practical port length, you will need to model a larger box than RE recommends. And just as an FYI, their recommendations are not for SQ builds, they're for SPL. I would recommend using only one.

Synastr
10-03-2013, 03:18 AM
I've decided to build 2.5cft before displacement. I'm going to run two 4" ports as recommended by mylows10. Also got an amp off of Andrew from his company ampere audio. Going to give it a shot. 1000 watt at 1ohm

winkychevelle
10-03-2013, 06:38 AM
WinISD is written for modeling loudspeaker systems. Math is the same in a car as it is in a house, a symphony hall or a boat. It's up to the user to understand that the graphs WinISD shows reflect loudspeaker performance in an anechoic chamber and it's also up to the user to know how a room or vehicle cabin will most likely affect that graph.


OP, in order to get a reasonably flat response from those woofers and maintain a practical port length, you will need to model a larger box than RE recommends. And just as an FYI, their recommendations are not for SQ builds, they're for SPL. I would recommend using only one.

As far as I know there is no way to model the cabin gain of a vehicle in winisd. I like winisd but I stopped using it a long time ago. Now I would much rather just have a termlab and adjustable ports. With a truck like his he is going to peak in the low 50s which tuning the box low should overcome the loses below 50hz and since the box should start falling off around 45hz the cabin gain should come into affect and flatten the response till about 60hz.

in my car my peak is 63 hz so when I tune to 32hz I use alot of power so I can cut down the peak frequencies and hold flat when the box starts to roll off. I follow that by a 48db lpf at 60-63hz and let my mids handle anything above.

if I lacked mid basd I cut my lps filter to 52hz at 12db slope and the sub plays into 70hz before falling off substantially.

If rtas where so expensive I would get one to demonstrate. But im not paying 1200 for an audiocontrol rta

bbeljefe
10-03-2013, 09:10 AM
As far as I know there is no way to model the cabin gain of a vehicle in winisd.


Right. And there is no way to model WinISD for the gain of a den or cinema room.

winkychevelle
10-03-2013, 09:32 AM
Right. And there is no way to model WinISD for the gain of a den or cinema room.

Really charting out cabin gain is a pain in the arse and I would rather use an eq instead to get a flat response

Synastr
10-03-2013, 09:36 PM
Update. Floor is all welded back up. Sealed and good to go. Now to build the box and amp rack and be done fore now lol

phemps
10-10-2013, 05:21 AM
Really charting out cabin gain is a pain in the arse and I would rather use an eq instead to get a flat response

I've never bothered but mapping by taking a mic a few feet from a sub in a sealed box outside, plotting points and then moving it into the car and plotting the points over top of the originals doesnt seem too hard

winkychevelle
10-10-2013, 08:32 AM
I've never bothered but mapping by taking a mic a few feet from a sub in a sealed box outside, plotting points and then moving it into the car and plotting the points over top of the originals doesnt seem too hard

Not exactly the correct way either. Thats a good start but not torally correct

winkychevelle
10-10-2013, 08:50 AM
Ok, I took a dual sealed box and knocked the divider out. Ended up with 1.833 cft before displacement. I added a 3" by 8" port which seemed to equate to 32-33hz. Well it sounds great but seems to not really get that low with sound. Is the port actually tuned wrong? Or what might it possibly be tuning too?

The port is tuned right. But you should still be able to dig into the lower notes. It may not be loud enough for you but thats preference.

it can be quite hard to achieve loud and low with low power and low cone area. You can try tuning lower and it may help. But really its hoffmans iron law

efficiency, low end, small box size

You can only have two though some drivers ate very balanced and perform quite well

Synastr
10-10-2013, 05:51 PM
I built a box now for one. 4" port I can't remember the length. Box is 1.35 before subs and its amazing. I love it. Box was tuned to 30hz