View Full Version : 2013 Renault Megane build
I'd like to contribute to the forum with something probably slightly more exotic towards the largely North American audience on this website.
I'm the proud owner of a French (yes, French) Renault Megane and have been driving Renault for nearly a decade now. As far as I'm aware Renault hasn't been marketed or available in the US or Canada for at least 2 to 3 decades so I'm not surprised if you've never heard of them.
Nevertheless the newest series are very decent quality build, very comfy ride and look pretty slick.
The downside is the factory stereo systems are absolutely terrible.. so I decided to do something about that.
I'm planning to update this thread with a report of our "build", already posted the thread previously but I suspect it was not approved due to it containing too many links & images. Let's see how we go!
Here are some examples of late Renault models;
Megane GT http://blogs.mirror.co.uk/cars-motorbikes/MeganeGtSport.jpg
Megane RS http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b-5Upgp7fj4/T0KC5aP_SoI/AAAAAAAGwWI/0eM86NnTYEg/s400/Renault-Megane-RS-265-11.jpg
Clio 4 http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A0vfzbQK7Zk/T_Qjl1ohMqI/AAAAAAAANoY/P53XWlS2xp4/s640/Renault-Clio-4-Custom-5.jpg
Laguna Coupe 2014 http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/5471/cliomax.jpg
It's unlikely you'll ever see this vehicle in North America but there are quite a lot of them here in the United Kingdom where I'm currently based.
I previously owned a 2009 version with a Diesel engine but got a really good deal on a brand new 2013 model which is why I traded the old one in.
The 2013 model has got a built in TomTom sat-nav. The biggest problem is that the TomTom will cease to operate when changing the factory radio, so we decided to work around the problem by using the factory radio as a source and amplify the signals it produces.
(I am aware an Italian stalk-module exists to prevent this from happening but it doesn't fully work as it should).
I've put a lot of time and research into this and came to the conclusion that the American AudioControl LC7i offers the best solution.
For this particular install we used the following components:
Pioneer TS-A132Ci 300W (upgrade of the previous Pioneer TS-Q131C 180W)
Pioneer TS-A1323i 300W (upgrade of the previous Pioneer TS-E1302i 180W)
Sony-XM1S(amp for the sub - previously installed)
Sony XM-GTR7040 (amp for the door speakers - new)
Sony XS-LB12S (sub - previously installed)
AudioControl LC7i (high-level converter)
Firstly, the new vehicle (here with 30 miles on the clock)
As you can see here, brown wires from every speaker feed towards the trunk, amplify it there and bring it back to the doors. The biggest nightmare we encountered was that we expected to be able to use the existing rubber wire sleeve to get to the door and back. What we couldn't see was the end of this cable ends in a big fat plug which is impossible to get new wires through.
Because of this problem we were forced to drill holes in the door of a brand spanking new Megane :(
To achieve this we not only had to remove the inside panels but also the safety belts. Luckily there's a hole in the car's chassis already which is filled with a plastic plug so we didn't have to drill in there.
The next step was to remove the annoying door-cards (whoever invented the plastic door-clips deserves a smack in the face!)
New speaker mounted
At the front we also had to insert a compo-filter for the separation of frequencies between the door speaker and the tweeter in the dash.
We dumped the filter in the tweeter hole and wired blue wires from the door to the filter and from the filter to the trunk.
Unexpectedly we discovered that there are 2 electric wires for accessories under the floor close to the hood handle. Instead of being difficult and tapping power from under the hood we put together a custom plug that taps into these cables and brings the live cable to the trunk.
The AudioControl LC7i has a feature that will generate a remote-out signal as soon as it detects audio on the speaker wires, because of this feature a remote signal from the factory radio or plug to the trunk in order to switch on the amps is NOT required!
Nicely leading wires towards the trunk
Then the trunk, we tried to keep the install as tidy and minimal as possible in order to maximize luggage space.
For this reason we mounted most of the components on the back of the woofer.
(Wiring is not very tidy at this stage)
LC7i and XM-1S
XM-GTR7040 mounted on the back of the rear seat
I'm a happy man now :)
08-21-2013, 07:35 PM