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bbeljefe
08-17-2013, 07:54 PM
Here's a t-line I built a while back for a JBL GTO 10, D4. It's in prime but could be painted any color or covered with any material. And, it's for sale.

Build pics:

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-06-30_23-38-15_893_zps745626d8.jpg

↑ I started it for a Fosgate P1 I had but the JBL has the same Fs as the Fosgate and is a much more durable speaker.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-07-02_19-38-48_833_zps2a283007.jpg

↑ Second layer of baffle.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-07-05_17-56-24_19_zps5c620acb.jpg

↑ Third layer of baffle. Mostly cosmetic.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-07-05_17-55-49_187_zps0a41e054.jpg
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/photobucket-10679-1373165904874_zpscd09be20.jpg

↑ Speaker wire epoxied and covered with vinyl body filler to minimize line interference.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/photobucket-7269-1373166072151_zpsaea0bfb3.jpg

↑ In prime. Once I decide what to do with the ornamental panel on the front, the screw holes will be filled and covered over. The panel could be raised ½" or so to add LEDs behind it or it could be laminated to add strength.

Demos:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiFYUBhdC1Q


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Feh72tgJPeU


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyJ54ENZC9s


Next will be a line for a GTO 8 that I have laying around. I'll probably use it for a computer sub but I might sell it. Then, when the SA-15 I ordered comes in, a line for it. If it works out well, I'll sell it, remove the seat from my truck and put two X-15s in a permanently mounted t-line.


EDIT: If anyone knows why this site won't embed videos or why I'm too stupid to make it work... please let me know.
Thanks.

Sub Woofin
08-17-2013, 08:25 PM
cool box! one question though, do you really gotta glue the speaker wire?

bbeljefe
08-17-2013, 09:47 PM
You don't have to do that but I wanted the wire to enter the cabinet at the back and in order to do that, it had to pass through the line. A transmission line is essentially one long port and the airflow through it is intense, so a wire running across it could introduce turbulence or possible some noise, neither of which I wanted.

It may be overkill but one thing it isn't, is a problem.

And thanks for the kind words!

Spooney
08-17-2013, 10:12 PM
How do you go about designing one of these and what parameters in a driver would one look for to find a good t line driver?

ThatChevyGuy
08-17-2013, 10:15 PM
Im interested in this as well

98GCLimited
08-18-2013, 02:22 AM
How do you go about designing one of these and what parameters in a driver would one look for to find a good t line driver?


I guess they didnt want my post with outside link to be read on here but if you are wondering about 1/4 wave tlines and how to build one and select good woofers to use for one based off of ts parameters just google "quarter wave tline tutorial" and you will see a nice thread on another car audio forum that explains everything simply and effectively.

Spooney
08-18-2013, 10:57 AM
I guess they didnt want my post with outside link to be read on here but if you are wondering about 1/4 wave tlines and how to build one and select good woofers to use for one based off of ts parameters just google "quarter wave tline tutorial" and you will see a nice thread on another car audio forum that explains everything simply and effectively.

Thanks a lot for the info man

bbeljefe
08-18-2013, 12:19 PM
Like 98GC said, there are some really good tutorials on ¼ wave t-lines.

I'll go over the basics here though.

Any speaker will do well in a transmission line but those that do best have a Qts below .4 and a Qms below 7. The box is designed using only the Fs & Sd of the driver and the speed of sound, which is 1130 feet per second.

Fs is the resonant frequency of the driver. In the case above, that's 30hz.
Sd is the effective piston area of the driver. In the case above (can't remember exactly) that is ~56.75²".

To calculate the line length: 1130/30= 37.66' ←That's the length of a 30hz sine wave, but we're building a ¼ wave line so 37.66/4= 9.42' or, 9.5' to make things easy. This isn't brain surgery and slight variations won't be audible.

So what we have to do now is stuff a 9½' long by 56.75²" "port" into the cabin of a vehicle. The one above is 49" gross width and approx 14"H X 14"D. It has one 180° turn and one 90° turn.

From what I've read, there are about as many different ways to design a transmission line as there are people to ask... so do some due diligence before you start and decide what makes the most sense to you.

Save the difficulty in designing them, transmission lines are the loudest and best sounding woofer boxes you can build. They perform well across the widest frequency band and extend as far as one octave below their tuning frequency while still maintaining an above -3dB output.

Also, you don't have to stick to the Fs of the driver when building one. For instance, if you want a 40dB boost, you can put the same driver above in a line tuned to 40hz and you'll still get good performance at the frequency you want enhanced. I haven't done this but I would imagine that the only drawback would be that the driver would probably fall off at a steeper slope on the low end than if it were in a box tuned to Fs. That, of course, is just speculation as I haven't seen one modeled and I'm still in the learning process with these boxes.

Another benefit to transmission lines is that they're extraordinarily efficient. I had the one above in a local car audio shop connected to one side of a Lepia 20x2 mini amp (which actually does about 11wpc) and at 37hz the ceiling tiles started to reverberate. It's getting 1000 watts in my truck but in truth, as little as 250 watts has done well.

And once more to clarify... I'm still in the learning phase with these boxes so please don't take my claims about performance as the end all be all. The formulas I shared are correct but the performance characteristics have not been modeled on an RTA. At least, not by me... yet.

sweety
08-18-2013, 05:26 PM
Have you stuffed the Tline with fibre fill etc or left it open ? often fancied building a Tline for my JBL GT3-10 but it's been the maths bit to work out the enclosure size that put me off as no good at maths:blush:

™Caveman
08-18-2013, 06:10 PM
Here's a t-line I built a while back for a JBL GTO 10, D4. It's in prime but could be painted any color or covered with any material. And, it's for sale.

Build pics:

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-06-30_23-38-15_893_zps745626d8.jpg

↑ I started it for a Fosgate P1 I had but the JBL has the same Fs as the Fosgate and is a much more durable speaker.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-07-02_19-38-48_833_zps2a283007.jpg

↑ Second layer of baffle.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-07-05_17-56-24_19_zps5c620acb.jpg

↑ Third layer of baffle. Mostly cosmetic.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-07-05_17-55-49_187_zps0a41e054.jpg
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/photobucket-10679-1373165904874_zpscd09be20.jpg

↑ Speaker wire epoxied and covered with vinyl body filler to minimize line interference.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/photobucket-7269-1373166072151_zpsaea0bfb3.jpg

↑ In prime. Once I decide what to do with the ornamental panel on the front, the screw holes will be filled and covered over. The panel could be raised ½" or so to add LEDs behind it or it could be laminated to add strength.

Demos:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiFYUBhdC1Q


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Feh72tgJPeU


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyJ54ENZC9s


Next will be a line for a GTO 8 that I have laying around. I'll probably use it for a computer sub but I might sell it. Then, when the SA-15 I ordered comes in, a line for it. If it works out well, I'll sell it, remove the seat from my truck and put two X-15s in a permanently mounted t-line.


EDIT: If anyone knows why this site won't embed videos or why I'm too stupid to make it work... please let me know.
Thanks.
I want one of these! Nice.

bbeljefe
08-18-2013, 08:17 PM
I want one of these! Nice.

Well, you could always buy that one. I can paint it any color you like or vinyl cover it... I could even carpet it, although that would be blasphemous. :-)

timhof13
08-18-2013, 08:27 PM
How much you asking, will you do designs for money.

™Caveman
08-18-2013, 10:13 PM
Well, you could always buy that one. I can paint it any color you like or vinyl cover it... I could even carpet it, although that would be blasphemous. :-)

It would have to be for a pair of epic 8's. Design and build me one.

bbeljefe
08-18-2013, 10:37 PM
It would have to be for a pair of epic 8's. Design and build me one.

If you mean these little beasts (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=293-657), that will be an almost 12' line and it'll be just a little bit more line area than the one above. Those would probably do a lot better on the lows than the one above also.

Give me dimensions of where it's going and tell me how you want it finished and I'll get you a price.

bbeljefe
08-18-2013, 11:00 PM
Here's the next t-line I'm trying in the truck. It will have a Sundown SA-15 in it and I'll probably end up taking the rear seat out and building a line for two X-15s.

I tried to do more progress pictures for those who want to see how these things go together. This line is identical to the first one, expect of course, for the size.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-18_13-46-16_910_zps81452aba.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-18_13-54-58_554_zps8383eed5.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-18_13-55-07_120_zps51dfd706.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-18_14-15-53_644_zps9dc2d9d3.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-18_14-16-00_347_zps2cc72d8e.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-18_15-16-59_709_zps716687c8.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-18_15-17-10_714_zps2aafc2a3.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-18_18-11-22_897_zps131d24f2.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-18_18-11-36_505_zpsf250430b.jpg


I actually finished it, less the second layer of baffle, and got it in the truck for testing. But... the only thing I had to test it with was a Skar IVX-15 and it did okay for what it is. Honestly, that little JBL ten can handle a lot more power than the Skar woofer can, so I could only test with it wired to 4Ω, which means 500 watts on my amp.

™Caveman
08-18-2013, 11:02 PM
If you mean these little beasts (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=293-657), that will be an almost 12' line and it'll be just a little bit more line area than the one above. Those would probably do a lot better on the lows than the one above also.

Give me dimensions of where it's going and tell me how you want it finished and I'll get you a price.
Will do! Give me until tomorrow I haven't got a tape here.

bbeljefe
08-18-2013, 11:05 PM
And here's the next t-line driver... it will be a sub for my computer, as now I've got some bulky bookshelf speakers and I want to do a couple of PVC lines with some 3" drivers and have an under the desk sub.

Beefy little sister to the ten above. I've used this speaker in a couple of other systems I built. One was just sealed in a truck and the other, a 6th order trunk box in a Camry. It sounds awesome for an 8.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-17_17-08-59_119_zpsa96b58f5.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-17_17-09-11_466_zpsb0f071f5.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-17_17-09-34_93_zps32fbba23.jpg

Spooney
08-19-2013, 09:53 AM
This may be a dumb question but can you design one as an 1/8 wave to cut the length down some but still get good results ? I can fit a 1/4 wave one for a ten and maybe a 12 but the 15" ones are out of reach I think unless I can cut the length down some . Very intrigued by the quarter wave though. . It may very well be the next enclosure I build.

drummer4261900
08-21-2013, 07:35 PM
good stuff!!

bbeljefe
09-01-2013, 10:40 PM
This may be a dumb question but can you design one as an 1/8 wave to cut the length down some but still get good results ? I can fit a 1/4 wave one for a ten and maybe a 12 but the 15" ones are out of reach I think unless I can cut the length down some . Very intrigued by the quarter wave though. . It may very well be the next enclosure I build.

I apologize for the late response, I didn't see your post. But no, 8th waves don't work. You can tune the line higher than the driver's Fs but it has to be a quarter wave to sound any good.

bbeljefe
09-01-2013, 10:45 PM
Update... haven't built the line for the baby Jibble but I do have some pics of the SA-15 line finished but not put together. I'll get pics and video of the finished product tomorrow.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-28_09-49-01_570_zpsc3b77386.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-28_09-49-13_523_zps9c4e3d12.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-28_09-49-45_432_zpsd3d9da94.jpg

That sumbish is a beast to move by yourself.... in fact, even though I put blankets on the ground and used a hand truck with a blanket on it, I managed to chip the paint on the port side when I put it in.... made me sick.

Milk Mayne
09-01-2013, 11:27 PM
Do you know about any differences in sound when it comes to designing around a 1/2 or whole wave? Obviously it would be improbable in a vehicle, but for a theatre setup now...if there would be any point. Envisioning such a thing makes me think back to those entire room horn designs I used to read about in the '90s.

EDIT: BTW, nice box. Makes me wish I would've kept the SUV since I didn't even really know about T-lines until recently. I can't believe you're planning to build one designed around two X 15's! That's gonna be NASTY!

gckless
09-01-2013, 11:54 PM
Real interested in your findings as well. Your boxes look amazing btw.

I have one question: would putting a pair of subs in a T-line or tapped horn work? My gut feeling is no because of cancellation and wave interference and a whole lot of theoretical things, but not sure if it's ever been tried.

bbeljefe
09-01-2013, 11:56 PM
Do you know about any differences in sound when it comes to designing around a 1/2 or whole wave? Obviously it would be improbable in a vehicle, but for a theatre setup now...if there would be any point. Envisioning such a thing makes me think back to those entire room horn designs I used to read about in the '90s.

EDIT: BTW, nice box. Makes me wish I would've kept the SUV since I didn't even really know about T-lines until recently. I can't believe you're planning to build one designed around two X 15's! That's gonna be NASTY!

Honestly, I've never heard of a half wave box either. Of course, the whole wave horns have been around forever and horns in general have been used in a number of configurations but to maintain my integrity, I'm gonna have to admit that I'm not very well versed in anything other than quarter waves where horns/transmission lines are concerned. And even then, I'm a newbie.

And thanks for the kind words. I'm excited as hell about the new build, especially since it isn't gonna be X15s. I snagged a pair of Zv3 15s from chvse_esvhc here and now they're sitting in my shop just calling on me to put them in a t-line on about 6KW.

It's gonna be a fun build.

bbeljefe
09-02-2013, 12:24 PM
Real interested in your findings as well. Your boxes look amazing btw.

I have one question: would putting a pair of subs in a T-line or tapped horn work? My gut feeling is no because of cancellation and wave interference and a whole lot of theoretical things, but not sure if it's ever been tried.

I've seen a number of t-lines with multiple drivers and the final (yeah, right) build in my truck will be two Sundown Zv3 15s in a t-line. Also, there are a lot of tapped horns with multiple drivers. Check out the Matterhorn subwoofer on youtube. It's a tapped horn with (I think) 40 15s and it's built inside a shipping container.

gckless
09-02-2013, 12:41 PM
I've seen a number of t-lines with multiple drivers and the final (yeah, right) build in my truck will be two Sundown Zv3 15s in a t-line. Also, there are a lot of tapped horns with multiple drivers. Check out the Matterhorn subwoofer on youtube. It's a tapped horn with (I think) 40 15s and it's built inside a shipping container.

So apparently the military is trying to rearrange people's intestines at 200ft lol.

But what needs to be added, if anything, to box dimensions for another driver? Would you just increase the port area for the added Sd of the additional woofer(s)? I'm assuming length would still be the same, since that's not based off of the driver specifically.

bbeljefe
09-03-2013, 02:18 AM
So apparently the military is trying to rearrange people's intestines at 200ft lol.

But what needs to be added, if anything, to box dimensions for another driver? Would you just increase the port area for the added Sd of the additional woofer(s)? I'm assuming length would still be the same, since that's not based off of the driver specifically.

Right and wrong.... Yes, you double the line area (port size) but no... the box is indeed based off the drivers specifically. Even if not tuned to Fs, it is still based on the Sd of the system. Adding a driver adds to total Sd but doesn't change Fs or Fb, so length doesn't change but area does... based on the driver(s).

And yeah, the military has now decided to use audio to hurt people. But with any luck the thing won't perform like they think it will and will be put to more benevolent uses.

bbeljefe
09-03-2013, 02:23 AM
Okay... finally got around to getting some video of the big line in action. Keep in mind that this thing is running off a Hifonics Hfi-1500, which is rumored to be a sorely underperforming amplifier. It's a dual 2Ω driver wired to 1Ω.


http://youtu.be/txrpRmIdOmY


http://youtu.be/5UqVS53h1_I


http://youtu.be/CmUhu6-RByE


http://youtu.be/VEW27n3bBu8

Well... WTAF? Anybody have an idea why the videos don't play in the thread?

phemps
09-03-2013, 02:41 AM
Update... haven't built the line for the baby Jibble but I do have some pics of the SA-15 line finished but not put together. I'll get pics and video of the finished product tomorrow.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-28_09-49-01_570_zpsc3b77386.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-28_09-49-13_523_zps9c4e3d12.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/2013-08-28_09-49-45_432_zpsd3d9da94.jpg

That sumbish is a beast to move by yourself.... in fact, even though I put blankets on the ground and used a hand truck with a blanket on it, I managed to chip the paint on the port side when I put it in.... made me sick.

box looks gorgeous man..

bbeljefe
09-12-2013, 06:11 PM
I'm posting this response to Nutdawg 651 so as to avoid derailing another user's thread... a few more videos of the t-line to follow.


Of course theyve got 4-5 alts and most dont have 30 , of course you use more batts as I said before when the alt cant handle a load it suckks from the batts , u wonder why they have all those alts because they run so manys amperes from their amplifiers where are you gonna get the power from not the batts I wanna witnes you personally use just a stock alt and 2 batts daily and while you
do it run a few amps on it and lets see how long before your voltage dont go back up after a few weeks 2 months tops maybe 3 , then your alt gives and everything runs off your batts because your alt is puttin out low voltage and cant chrge nothin no more I wanna see a video of it cuz ima laugh and say see


You clearly did not understand what I wrote. Please read it again. I never asserted that anyone is running 30 alternators. And I don't wonder anything, I understand quite well how electricity works.

As for running dual batteries on a factory alternator, I've been doing it for about 7 years. I have a factory 136A Bosch alternator and two group 27, 110AH deep cycle marine wet cells (which is all we could run before AGMs) under the hood in a diesel configuration. Oh and, that alternator has been on the truck since the day it was built.

I'm also running three amplifiers on that system. A 75X4 on tweets and rear fill... a 300X2 on my doors and a 1600 watt BXi, wired at 0.5Ω on the sub. I don't have battery or alternator problems, I don' thave headlight dimming and, I don't have troublesome voltage drop. So ignoring the real output of the monoblock and just assuming its 2Ω rating, that's 2500 watts.

That said, I won't go any larger without an HO alternator but there are thousands of similar setups all over the place doing just fine on ~2.5Kw.

Pics:
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/photobucket-10847-1379022336427_zps35462068.jpg

↑ As explained, two marine batteries on the factory alternator. It's been like that for years but was originally done in 2 gauge, with different batteries.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/photobucket-11707-1379009436520_zps47994b7e.jpg
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/photobucket-12263-1379009460193_zpsb84b0d73.jpg

↑ Amps are Hifonics BXi-1600 wired at 0.5Ω, Renegade REN-1100 @ 4Ωx4 and a Diamond Audio D5 600.4 bridged to 2 channels at 4Ω. In the past, I had an Earthquake PH D2 along with a 400TX for the mids and over the years there have been any number of different amps in this truck... all on the stock alternator. And I bought this truck new... 15 years ago.

Video of voltage drop:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euqF4M5KIzE

↑ In that video, I'm sitting at idle, with the air on playing Gorilla Zoe - Juice Box. The lows in that song tax an electrical system and, I've got the sub and head unit turned all the way up. I was at 13.3 volts when it started and the lowest voltage seen there was 12.3. So a total voltage drop of one volt at 700RPM on a factory alternator with the PCM controlling voltage. If I had an external regulator on the truck, the voltage drop would have been negligible and my voltage would have been ~14.5. How do I know this? Because I ran an external regulator for about five years but I got tired of it burning up batteries.

Lastly... I'm not trying to bust your balls. But you're handing out advice to people that isn't, in my opinion at least, well thought out or backed with any empirical evidence. If I'm wrong about that, then show me. And don't reference Perry Babin's website.. show me what you've done and explain to me in detail why I am incorrect. I promise you, the last thing I want is to be wrong. Instead, you're telling a first time car audio enthusiast not to buy a second battery when in reality, that is absolutely one of the first and best steps to take when building a moderately powered system. Not to mention, you're advising him to drop $400.00-600.00 on a new alternator that he may never need.

Nutdawg651
09-12-2013, 09:47 PM
My bad I was saying 30 batts

supra1987
11-04-2013, 09:55 PM
I would like to know the dimensions of the 10 inch subwoofer t-line that you have built and also how much larger would it have to be with two 10's? Very nice by the way.

nismos14
11-04-2013, 10:04 PM
price and dimensions?

bbeljefe
11-06-2013, 02:03 PM
I would like to know the dimensions of the 10 inch subwoofer t-line that you have built and also how much larger would it have to be with two 10's? Very nice by the way.

The enclosure is 49" wide, 14" tall and 12" deep. The line is ~9.41' long and the line area is approx 63in², if I remember correctly. For two drivers, the line area would have to double but the length would stay the same.

This line is tuned to 30 Hz but for drivers with a higher Fs, you could build a shorter one. To give you an idea, a 35 Hz line would only have to be 8' long.

And thanks for the kind words.

bbeljefe
11-06-2013, 02:06 PM
price and dimensions?

Dimensions are above. Price as it is now is $350.00.

Here's a picture of the current color scheme on the box... it is sprayed with Herculiner.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/bbeljefe/photobucket-8631-1381975558591_zpsa9cbd66e.jpg

Sub not included. ;-)

T3mpest
11-06-2013, 02:48 PM
Have you tried experimenting with a tapered T-line or using a thin layer of acoustic batting along the walls? Both are used to stop resonances and further enhance the smooth flat sound that T-Lines are known for. Also you build beautiful boxes, really nice work!

bbeljefe
11-06-2013, 07:41 PM
Have you tried experimenting with a tapered T-line or using a thin layer of acoustic batting along the walls? Both are used to stop resonances and further enhance the smooth flat sound that T-Lines are known for. Also you build beautiful boxes, really nice work!

I actually played with lining and stuffing in this box but to be honest, I don't think it's worth it in a car audio install unless it's a full blown SQ build. I can definitely see it helping in a home setup though. As for tapers, no I haven't... technically.

On my latest build in my truck I was having hell designing a below the window t-line for two 15s and I wound up doing two things that could have hurt. First, I choked the line by about 8% less than Sd and second, I mounted the subs along the line rather than side by side at the very end. Also, in order to make the thing fit like I needed it to, I tuned it to ~29 on drivers that are supposed to have an Fs of 34.5, iirc. As it turns out, I ran the DATS on them after about two months of play and both of them reported ~30-31 Hz Fs so it worked out for the best. That box is stupid loud for two subs and I when I play rock or sq stuff I get a smooth as hell blend between the mids and the subs.

And thanks for the kind words. :-)

Dimwit
12-27-2013, 03:53 AM
Do you know about any differences in sound when it comes to designing around a 1/2 or whole wave? Obviously it would be improbable in a vehicle, but for a theatre setup now...if there would be any point. Envisioning such a thing makes me think back to those entire room horn designs I used to read about in the '90s.

EDIT: BTW, nice box. Makes me wish I would've kept the SUV since I didn't even really know about T-lines until recently. I can't believe you're planning to build one designed around two X 15's! That's gonna be NASTY!

To answer your question a bit further you wouldn't want to do a half wavelength T line since that would cause you to have full cancelation at your tuning frequency and consequently its resonant frequencies (at least if my understanding of how T lines work is right). With a Whole wavelength T line you would essentially have full reinforcement at your tuning frequency and its resonant frequencies.

cablguy184
12-27-2013, 04:00 AM
Why do you have your enclosure just "Laying" on your back seat ??? SOO much pressure lost ...

jeffdachef
12-27-2013, 04:08 AM
Why do you have your enclosure just "Laying" on your back seat ??? SOO much pressure lost ...

it still hits decently, thats what makes it impressive, it'll hit a lot harder if it had something to load off of.

cablguy184
12-27-2013, 04:11 AM
it still hits decently, thats what makes it impressive, it'll hit a lot harder if it had something to load off of.
to each his own I guess ... just thought I'd ask ...


Nice looking enclosures BTW ...