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View Full Version : Dayton refrence 7" for midbass driver.



HoovaDeuce 82
08-16-2013, 11:56 AM
Has anyone heard or used the Dayton refrence 7" woofer for a dedicated midbass driver? They only cost $50 each from partsexpress.com and was curious how these would sound as midbass drivers. Also would they work in a caraudio setup with deadened doors and the drivers put in the factory location. It may require a little work and or spacers to fit them but I really would like to try these and run them from about 60-250 hz

Dayton Audio RS180-4 7" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm 295-374 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-374&scqty=2)

Davecubs14
08-16-2013, 01:06 PM
They were wonderful for me. I miss mine very much. I haven't had any problems with any of dayton's stuff.

jockhater2
08-16-2013, 01:53 PM
I have the same ones except 8"
but they are sitting in my closet. I will be putting them in the car as soon as I can.

jrouter76
08-16-2013, 01:57 PM
Yes I ha used them a few years back and they are well-built they also Play real CLEAR,but the thing I COULD NOT gethem to do was Playdown Low to around 40hz without them breaking up....anything 50Hz and above no problem, on the other hand My OEM ID Mids fit the bill they play Clean and Clear without breakup,can play down to 30 hz. hope this helps...oooh cross the Daytons over @ 2500hz-50hz you should be fine in that range.

jockhater2
08-16-2013, 01:58 PM
Yes I ha used them a few years back and they are well-built they also Play real CLEAR,but the thing I COULD NOT gethem to do was Playdown Low to around 40hz without them breaking up....anything 50Hz and above no problem, on the other hand My OEM ID Mids fit the bill they play Clean and Clear without breakup,can play down to 30 hz. hope this helps...oooh cross the Daytons over @ 2500hz-50hz you should be fine in that range.

Good point.
Mine will be crossed at 74hz

T3mpest
08-16-2013, 02:03 PM
Yes I ha used them a few years back and they are well-built they also Play real CLEAR,but the thing I COULD NOT gethem to do was Playdown Low to around 40hz without them breaking up....anything 50Hz and above no problem, on the other hand My OEM ID Mids fit the bill they play Clean and Clear without breakup,can play down to 30 hz. hope this helps...oooh cross the Daytons over @ 2500hz-50hz you should be fine in that range.

Lol why are your running your mids down to 30hz? Might as well go subless at that point. If you all you need is 2 7inch drivers is quasi IB to be happy down to 30 2 12's sounds like major overkill to me.

HoovaDeuce 82
08-16-2013, 02:38 PM
Well I plan on running them from about 60hz - 250-500hz for pure midbass drivers. I plan on using cdt classic 4" midrage's in the dash with vifa textile soft dome tweets on the a-pillars. I'm gonna use a 4 channel amp and use channels 3 and 4 for each dayton then I'm gonna use some cdt passive crossover's for the cdt 4" midranges and the vifa tweets on the other 2 channels. My subs will run from 80hz down, the dayton 7's from bout 60-250-500 just depends on how it sounds. Then the midrange from 250-500 - 4300 and the tweet 4300 and up. The cdt crossover separates at 4300 so I don't have a choice on that. It should sound really nice I'm hoping. Easy way to run a 3 way set for cheap. The amp I'm going with will be the Soundstream Picasso p4.500 ( 80x4 rms )

HoovaDeuce 82
08-16-2013, 02:45 PM
Would it be a bad idea to have the Dayton's run from about 60-1000 then have the 4" cdt's run from like 500-4300? That would have both the daytons and cdt's running from 500-1000. This is my first attempt at a good sq system so I'm not exactly a pro lol.

GLN305
08-16-2013, 02:46 PM
I have experience with quite a few Dayton drivers and you really have to use them within the published limits. The build house uses regular CA glue on the spider so they will crack if you push them even a tad hard. I had a pair of the RS 180's and with 80 RMS and a 63Hz high pass, the spiders cracked...returned for refund due to manufacturer defect. PE accepted them and recognized the issue. Before that I had the same thing happen to me with the Dayton HO 15's. Having done tons of installs and being around this hobby for 20 years, these were the first speakers I have ever had fail on me. If you want a really solid midbass, here are some options in the same price range:

The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/peerless-woofers-6-7/peerless-nomex-830875-6.5-nomex-cone-woofer/)


The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/peerless-woofers-6-7/peerless-830946-sls-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/)

The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/sb-acoustics-woofers-6-7/sb-acoustics-sb17nrxc35-4-6.5-woofer/)

The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers-sb-acoustics/sb-acoustics-sb17mfc35-4-6-poly-cone-woofer/)

The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/scanspeak-woofers-6-7/scanspeak-discovery-18w/4434g-00-7-midwoofer-4-ohm/)

Concerning frequency coverage, it is generally a good idea to have one pair of speakers cover a specific range. A good starting point is:

Sub 0-80
Midbass 80-350
Midrange 350-6k
Tweeter 6k-up

This isn't the perfect range, but it is a good starting point and keep the drivers in their critical frequency ranges.

GLN305
08-16-2013, 02:50 PM
Depending on the situation, overlapping can work, but usually doesn't. In my install, there is a gap between drivers that meet at their 3dB down point.


Would it be a bad idea to have the Dayton's run from about 60-1000 then have the 4" cdt's run from like 500-4300? That would have both the daytons and cdt's running from 500-1000. This is my first attempt at a good sq system so I'm not exactly a pro lol.

HoovaDeuce 82
08-16-2013, 03:01 PM
I have experience with quite a few Dayton drivers and you really have to use them within the published limits. The build house uses regular CA glue on the spider so they will crack if you push them even a tad hard. I had a pair of the RS 180's and with 80 RMS and a 63Hz high pass, the spiders cracked...returned for refund due to manufacturer defect. PE accepted them and recognized the issue. Before that I had the same thing happen to me with the Dayton HO 15's. Having done tons of installs and being around this hobby for 20 years, these were the first speakers I have ever had fail on me. If you want a really solid midbass, here are some options in the same price range:

The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/peerless-woofers-6-7/peerless-nomex-830875-6.5-nomex-cone-woofer/)


The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/peerless-woofers-6-7/peerless-830946-sls-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/)

The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/sb-acoustics-woofers-6-7/sb-acoustics-sb17nrxc35-4-6.5-woofer/)

The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers-sb-acoustics/sb-acoustics-sb17mfc35-4-6-poly-cone-woofer/)

The Madisound Speaker Store (http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/scanspeak-woofers-6-7/scanspeak-discovery-18w/4434g-00-7-midwoofer-4-ohm/)

Concerning frequency coverage, it is generally a good idea to have one pair of speakers cover a specific range. A good starting point is:

Sub 0-80
Midbass 80-350
Midrange 350-6k
Tweeter 6k-up

This isn't the perfect range, but it is a good starting point and keep the drivers in their critical frequency ranges.

Hmmmm, Those Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5" Woofer - 4 ohm have peaked my interest. Would those work dropped into a car door that has been deadened and most of the holes on the door sealed up? Whatever midbass driver I go with needs to be able to drop in the door and be 4 ohms.

Also my original plan was close to what you laid on as far as crossover points go. I will try several and get what works best but my first try I think I'll go with

Sub 20(SF) - 80
Mid Bass 60-350
Mid Range 350 - 4300
Tweet 4300 and up.
Again My midrange/tweet crossover point has to be 4300 due to the cdt passive crossover but I think that will work just fine. Anyone have thoughts on the Vifa textile soft dome tweets? There only $10 each on PE but have great reviews for both home and car audio.

jrouter76
08-16-2013, 03:19 PM
THE Key WORD is " CAN" Play Down to 30hz, I don't run them that low in my setup I have them @ 40 hz-2300hz.

jrouter76
08-16-2013, 03:22 PM
thats a good starting point,you will have some gaps but they should be small

GLN305
08-17-2013, 09:33 AM
All of the woofers I listed have been used and proven to work well in doors, I can't forsee any problems if your doors are deadened and sealed appropriately. Overlapping the subwoofer and midbass may be problematic due to exaggerated peaks that occur naturally in vehicle in the range, but give it a shot, it's only a setting after all.

The Vifa textile tweets are solid tweets, I think you'll have good luck with them.



Hmmmm, Those Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5" Woofer - 4 ohm have peaked my interest. Would those work dropped into a car door that has been deadened and most of the holes on the door sealed up? Whatever midbass driver I go with needs to be able to drop in the door and be 4 ohms.

Also my original plan was close to what you laid on as far as crossover points go. I will try several and get what works best but my first try I think I'll go with

Sub 20(SF) - 80
Mid Bass 60-350
Mid Range 350 - 4300
Tweet 4300 and up.
Again My midrange/tweet crossover point has to be 4300 due to the cdt passive crossover but I think that will work just fine. Anyone have thoughts on the Vifa textile soft dome tweets? There only $10 each on PE but have great reviews for both home and car audio.