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View Full Version : 2000 mercury mystique-first ever custom install and need advice



chefzane
05-28-2013, 02:29 PM
I am installing a system from front to back and need some advice. Its a 2000 mercury mystique(trunk car) and I'm not completely ignorant at this stuff just don't know some of the more intricate details. I will list what I have and have done then what I think I need to get and do. From there is where I need help. I know some of you will rag on me about some decisions in products used, I am aware of the limitations of these things and better quality will be purchased when the products I have fry so I don't need a list of buy this and that I need info on install etc. Here goes: What I have installed: Head: JVC KD-S39 All doors: kicker DS682 component systems (1 speaker each door, 1 tweeter on pillar) Rear deck: audio pipe ts-vr8 8" 4ohm dvc 175 rms each x2 Trunk: kicker 10cvr124 12" 4ohm dvc 400 rms each x2 Door amp: audiobahn a4004j 50x4 at 4ohms Rear deck amp: audiobahn a4002j 250x2 at 2ohms Trunk amp: audiobahn a8002j 500x2 at 2ohms Xover: planet audio ecb20 3 way active What install I have done so far: Installed head unit with the only connection to the rest of the system being the RCA cables and the remote turn on the remote runs down the driver side with the 8 gauge power cable to the trunk the RCA cables run down the passenger side to the trunk along with all doors speaker wires except the rear driver door speaker wire runs under the back seat to the passenger side and joins the other three doors wires and RCA cables before entering the trunk the rear deck is custom made panel that has a baffle board that holds the 8 inch subs and the terminal plate for them that is bolted to the top with a layer of weather stripping underneath to help seal the box that is attached to the bottom of the rear deck for them it has also been foamed in completely underneath and the rear deck is solid the trunk has a framed and paneled floor the box for the 12 sits on top of that up against the back seat frame it is 38 inches wide 16tall and 15 deep at the top and 18 deep at the bottom so it basically has a slant of 3 inches on the back side against the seat with the subs and the terminal plates for them on the trunk side and it's sealed the sides of the trunk have been paneled and framed the driver side rear pocket is built into a battery box that will have the distros on top and the passenger side is paneled into a cove and will have the amp rack and xover tucked there the side of the box for the 12 as well as the whole front between the backseat and the box and the sides of the car have all been foamed so that the trunk is completely sealed as well as the vent pockets in the rear corners basically the box for the 12 is completely airtight as well as the trunk area itself outside of the box

What I plan to do and need advice on 1 Run two lengths of one gauge wire to the rear battery with 1 gauge to 4 8 gauge distros coming of the positive and negative to the amps 2 Install hi low converter on the high side of the deck to gain two more sets of RCA cables for a total of 4 set to run the doors off two sets and two set to the crossover that has 3 output creating a four-way system: doors, bass, mid, treble 3 install six by nines and tweeters and another 4 channel amp 4 CCF and MLV in the doors and floors and trunk lid and trucks sides with CLD tiles on all the door and fender and trunk lid skins as well as a spare tire well and roof of car 5 cut 3 3 inch holes in the rear deck for a direct air coupling between the cabin and the trunk? This will create a sort of 4th order bandpass I think???? This one I need an answer on before I do it ASAP 6 build amp rack and install 2 push fans and 2 pull fans to force air over the amps and crossover 7 last but not least is finalize all wiring positions and mounts and install 300 LEDs in various spots locations all wired together to controller then I can add the padding and final material to cover everything

I am sure I have left a few things out on the sides of what I have done and what I plan to do but this is it for the most part any suggestions ideas creative solutions to problems not seen will be greatly appreciated I plan on entering this car in USAC and IASCA sq competitions starting at the Rookie level since this is my first ever

By the way I am in Tulsa Oklahoma if anybody lives around here that can help me out or has the équipement like a good RTA or sound generators(not phone apps) or even a term lab or equivalent to test all this it would be even more greatly appreciated just let me know and I'll give you my number

Thanks in advance to all those who help will post pics today in a build log

chefzane
05-28-2013, 06:57 PM
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chefzane
05-29-2013, 12:09 PM
Pics

chefzane
05-29-2013, 12:18 PM
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chefzane
05-29-2013, 12:25 PM
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chefzane
05-29-2013, 12:32 PM
More pics

keep_hope_alive
05-29-2013, 01:37 PM
that was very hard to read. please use punctuation (periods and commas). use line returns to separate thoughts.

ok, so clarify a few things:
A. the rear deck midbass are in their own sealed enclosure and do not share any airspace with the subs? i assume/recommend not.
B. you are not using the single 12" in a box in the trunk anymore? i assume/recommend not.
C. the box you made for the 12's is sealed and not vented? i assume not.




What I plan to do and need advice on
1. Run two lengths of one gauge wire to the rear battery with 1 gauge to 4 8 gauge distros coming of the positive and negative to the amps
2. Install hi low converter on the high side of the deck to gain two more sets of RCA cables for a total of 4 set to run the doors off two sets and two set to the crossover that has 3 output creating a four-way system: doors, bass, mid, treble
3. install six by nines and tweeters and another 4 channel amp
4. CCF and MLV in the doors and floors and trunk lid and trucks sides with CLD tiles on all the door and fender and trunk lid skins as well as a spare tire well and roof of car
5. cut 3 3 inch holes in the rear deck for a direct air coupling between the cabin and the trunk? This will create a sort of 4th order bandpass I think????
This one I need an answer on before I do it ASAP
6. build amp rack and install 2 push fans and 2 pull fans to force air over the amps and crossover
7. last but not least is finalize all wiring positions and mounts and install 300 LEDs in various spots locations all wired together to controller then I can add the padding and final material to cover everything

answers. (note how much easier it is to read with line returns)
1. 1/0 to the rear battery is fine. just remember to fuse any wire connected to the positive terminal of any battery, within 18".

2. using a LOC to gain RCA outputs is fine but distortion will be high if you don't set your gains accordingly. i would not run the HU volume above 50%.

3. where would you put the 6x9's? more speakers = more volume and more phase issues. it won't necessarily sound better but it can be louder.

4. all of that can help.

5. your subs are aimed into the trunk with no good path for air into the cabin. basically, you're wasting bass. i recommend reversing your idea and firing the subs into the cabin and sealing off the trunk. for a vent you could vent through the rear deck (in one photo it looks like there is a vent in the rear deck to the sub box. you don't have to vent the sub box and sealed is fine, venting will increase output. you could make holes and create a bandpass but it won't be tuned and can sound worse. those holes are still not going to give the same benefit as just firing the subs into the cabin.

6. fans are fine. crossover doesn't need air.

7. 300 separate LED's is time consuming. buy some pre-made LED strips.


if you have money for additional stuff, buy a new head unit with 6 preouts first. that saves you the LOC issue.

re-run your RCA's. that route looks like they will fail from rubbing on the metal edge.

chefzane
05-29-2013, 09:32 PM
A. Yes own sealed box

B. No not using the single

C. Yes its sealed

1. Yes I plan on fusing both ends in between battery's and fusing each 4 or 8 gauge run in between distro and amp, should I fuse the neg in between battery's and in between distro and amp also?

2. What should I use instead of y cables to go from two sets to four sets? Or just from one set to two cuz the xover only has three outs so I can just split one of those? I don't like y cables cuz ur basically splitting the voltage too right?

3. 6x9s and a set of tweets or two more component sets just diff size from what I already have. I can put them a couple places like in the kicks or in the doors if two more comp sets or move the eights to under front seats and put those in the rear deck box or eights to kicks but that's a ***** or in the front dash I dunno

4. What order does it go I know CLD on inside door skin, seal the door, then CCF, then MLV, then door panel?

5. What if I cut the back out of the box, turn the subs, then use the trunk area as the sealed portion or infinite baffle type setup? I don't have enough clearance to mount them between the seat and face of box, unless I cut it out and try to move it in making a small box smaller? What about a large slot behind 8" panel? Or move the eights, cut holes in that box, and make a cover to replace the eights panel with the 6x9s instead so it is open to the trunk and house the other speakers?

6. Its Oklahoma so trunk temps can get into 150+ easily so yea they are necessary. Twenty bucks and some time and that amp rack will stay cool I'll post pics when thru it'll be pretty cool

7. Yea I have the 5050 rgb 300 per 5m strip I'm gonna cut and solder and make jumps throughout the trunk and cabin

RCA spot was temporary

HU will prolly be first upgrade then a mini dsp, then start all over with the rest upgrading one thing at a time

All I can say is thank you for your help if you know anyone near Tulsa Oklahoma who can help with setup and tuning lemme know

keep_hope_alive
05-30-2013, 11:32 AM
2. y-cables don't reduce voltage. parallel circuits have the same voltage. current increases and the voltage gain relationship between HU output impedance and the halved amplifier input impedance results in a slight reduction in voltage delivered, but more like 10% reduction.

4. CLD goes on the metal surfaces first. I put absorption in the doors, my build logs detail that. then seal doors. end result of the door is when knocking on the metal it should sound more like wood. CCF is for rattles and panel/clip isolation so use it where it makes sense. if you are doing MLV then you need CCF (or some other soft material) between the MLV and metal surfaces for it to be effective (any sound barrier should be decoupled from other hard surfaces).

5. you can mount the subs to the inside of the baffle instead of the outside - that way you have clearance. i recommend absorption in the sealed box also. IB requires specific subs and you'd be wasting trunk space to leave the box in place for IB. your idea to keep the rear deck speakers sealed is a good one. just add absorption in there also. you want sound absorption in sealed enclosures. if anything, add a rectangular port through the rear deck. two round ports are also sufficient - length to be determined by tuning recommendations. i like sealed enclosures though.

there are assloads of people around Tulsa. start hitting up shows for MECA, USACi, and IASCA and hang out in the SQ area. they will tell you to avoid adding 6x9's to your car and to remove the tweeters on your b-pillars. they will tell you to try to get all of the sound to come from the dash - while no speakers are on the dash, it can sound as if the performers are on the hood of your car once you get speaker locations, crossovers, and time alignment situated. the rear 8's are fine for midbass (though midbass is desired to be up front). if you want to make the car louder, move to a 3-way front soundstage. that way you get a dedicated midrange that plays cleaner and louder and a dedicated midbass up front. time align the speakers and they will add together well. if you can get those 8's in your front doors and the 6.5's in your kicks you will be taking the right steps. make that your next goal, if possible. if those 8's don't fit, Helix Esprit will.

you can get a head unit with processing to avoid the need for a DSP. the Alpine CDA-9887 has a good amount of processing available (what i use).

chefzane
05-30-2013, 12:21 PM
Yea tweeters were moved temp location in pics

The subs are kicker cvr how can I mount on top surface with the bezel they have

chefzane
05-30-2013, 12:37 PM
Planned on putting the eights under the seats at first but won't work without moving seats two inches up

What Is a good three way front stage gonna cost and do I need to amp it

I am trying to start hitting up shows just gotta get a few things finished before I feel it should be seen by anyone this is my first go round and entering as a rookie I don't wanna win it all from the start or be dead last ya know, I just don't want these guys to look at me and dismiss me right away, I am trying to turn this into a hobby and want to enjoy the scene not feel crappy every time I show up.

Thank you tremendously for the advice and not treating me like an idiot guys, its greatly appreciated.

keep_hope_alive
05-30-2013, 01:41 PM
you can attend shows as a spectator and not demo anything.

you can reuse your existing equipment for a 3-way front stage. and yes, every speaker should have an external amp, the HU shouldn't power anything. though i have no issues with the 8's where you have them and you did a good job integrating them into the rear deck. i honestly like what you've done so far with the wood working. for now, work on making your front doors as solid as possible and maybe remove some metal to allow for a shallow 8" in there. then just use a 6.5" baffle on top for now. you only want to cut metal and deaden once.

the sub bezel stays in place, the hole for the subs gets a bit larger to clear the surrounds. i recommend some closed cell weatherstripping foam around the bezel to seal against the wood.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/attachments/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/26542590d1369844137-2000-mercury-mystique-first-ever-custom-install-need-advice-2013-05-03-10.23.38.jpg

it ends up like this (except with the box on the back):
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513015.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/UltraSubsA-12004_zps4feca6f7.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/UltraSubsA-12001_zps9050d3b0.jpg

i recently thickened my baffle to 2-1/4". a few more layers won't hurt you either
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130521_241330_901.jpg

chefzane
05-30-2013, 02:25 PM
Sounds good to me will that effect anything soundwise with it firing right at the back seat? The seat itself has no hard internals that I know of, maybe a frame, stiff foam and padding with the cover over it held by the cinched cable around the backside (OEM SEAT).

Thank you on the wood work. Its all getting covered with the same color as the rear deck prolly with a thin layer of foam underneath for texture other than hard wood like the rear deck is.

The sub box and eight box is built into the car and can't be moved neither can the rear deck panel. Well they can but it would **** as everything is screwed, glued, caulked, foamed, and sawdust wood puttied into place. I can however cut the holes in the back for the new sub face while its installed and just put another layer over the existing sub face and just use it as internal bracing?


Then use the mdf rings in between top of bezel and baffle to ensure space between seat and cone OR
on bottom side of bezel as it is now and bolt this way: Baffle bezel mdf with a bolt going thru all so that the flange is sandwiched and doesn't get marred up from bolts and nuts rubbing it?

Plan on getting another head unit soon but why not run a DSP if I plan on continuing to compete and decide to upgrade later I will already be a step ahead right? And plus I thought the processing capabilities of most reasonably priced(under300) HU is limited and a mini-dsp plus a $200 deck is less than the high end deck alone that has the same or less capabilities right? I dunno for sure just seems that way to me.

keep_hope_alive
05-30-2013, 07:32 PM
a miniDSP would need to be 8 channels to be of much use to you. and you need a laptop to make adjustments. a 2 channel unit would only give you an EQ that is cumbersome to adjust. if you just want an EQ, buy a 1/2DIN or trunk mount. you could spend $500-700 on processing alone.

i understand the box is built-in. and it sounds like you cannot remove the face on the seat side because of the vertical support. in that case you could cut holes in it and mount the subs from the rear. if you want a MDF ring to sandwich the bezel that is doable. you will also totally eliminate trunk rattle since nothing will fire into the trunk. you could also use the vertical surface for amp mounting and have some available trunk space.

chefzane
05-31-2013, 04:05 AM
True, again I'm thinking way too much on it. An eq is the next logical step.

A quick question, are any of the RTA apps on android or apple worth using to set up my system? They say they can but my thinking is its limited to the device mics capability right? And are the tone generators worthwhle? Again wouldn't this be limited by the device not the app? Where is somewhere I can get test tones that I can trust the quality of? I guess I need to sign up for IASCA, USAC, and MECA and get the discs so I can start seeing where I can improve also.

Yea I was trying to think of how I wanted to permanently mount the amps to show them off (cuz they is purdy lookin lol) and keep them out of the way. If I have to change a flat all I have to do is lift the bottom panel (not seen in pics it covers whole bottom and covers all the ugly, 3/4 ply with 10 philips head cam bolts)and unscrew around the edges and my spare and jack are under there so I don't want anything I can't remove easily with just a screwdriver. The spare tire is there cuz that's a requirement for IASCA if not other two. I know people mount amps on the box all the time but I just think it would rattle them too much? What about a layer of foam between the amp and board.

keep_hope_alive
05-31-2013, 08:37 PM
yes, Audio Tool on Android is decent above 100Hz. below 100Hz the sharp rolloff to control wind noise makes it inaccurate. you can get USB measurement mics that may work with the phone/app for improved accuracy. iphone has iAudioInterface for that along with Audio Tools by Studio Six Digital.

you can mount amps to boxes, but i like to mount the amps to a board, add a 2x2 stand off, then route wires behind the amp board. it does reduce vibration and makes the installation look much nicer. in reality, the box should be so rigid it doesn't vibrate.
here is an example of that:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/533022-2006-hundai-elantra-gt-5-door-simple-alpine-system.html

chefzane
06-01-2013, 11:02 AM
It will be early next week when I get to implement all these changes, round two "ding" ! Thanks again for all the input guys.

Anyone else with ideas around all this feel free to chime in, I need all the advice and info u got.

chefzane
06-01-2013, 04:38 PM
When I deaden the doors im gonna prolly perm mount the tweeters on top of front door panels in the triangle piece right behind the side mirrors and directed crossways toward opposite seat slightly, if this is off tell me

The question is the rear door ones where and aimed whereor should I relocate to fron dash somewhere for better stage placement?


I will also be replacing the the kicker ds series comp sets with ks series (top has I think) or piecing together a set so I need recommendations on pieces in these aizes: 5.5-6.5", 1-2" tweeter, crossover, and if I go big mid and little tweeter what about 3 way and add a 3-4"

chefzane
06-01-2013, 09:19 PM
Anyone got some imput

chefzane
06-03-2013, 11:50 AM
I am thinking of covering the window I have to cut to mount the subs to the inside with a piece of plexiglass. How to thick would the plexiglass need to be to cover a hole that was going to be 2.5 feet long and 12 to 14 inches tall? Should I put a horizontal metal brace in the middle of the 2.5 foot length to keep vibration down?

chefzane
06-03-2013, 08:44 PM
How thick does the plexi or lexan need to be?

---------- Post added at 08:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 PM ----------

And my tweeter question above?

chefzane
06-06-2013, 09:53 AM
Alright update time and another dilemma:

Instead of putting a lexan window in the oval hole in the back I just added another layer of wood for extra rigidity. This was played for a day without the hole covered as a kind of sealed box cuz my trunk is completely sealed. Sounded great this way. Then yesterday made the cover and installed it and when I played it last night it seamed like it wasnt as powerful? Did it sound better because being open and the trunk being sealed it was a bigger box?

And what should I seal the cover with if it needs to seal but be removable?

chefzane
06-06-2013, 11:42 AM
And yes I know it looks crappy and there's wires that are out of place right now but they are all getting tucked and put away and everything's getting covered so it won't be all ugly

i2ain2thunder
06-06-2013, 11:52 AM
For the tweeters, you should always try to connect the tweeters and move them around and listen to them in different locations to get an idea of what sounds best to you, then install them in the best location.

As for the thickness of plexi......no idea

As for the bass output lower, I don't think we will be able to answer that. Your system is pretty complex, and there are multiple phasing and cancellation possibilities. I can just say to do whatever sounds best to you. Honestly I kind of want to lean you away from the complexity of a multi speaker setup. I've heard 2way setups done well and they sound as good as any other setup out there. I know the theory is to have multiple speakers to handle all of the ranges nicely, but blending, balancing, cancellation, and phasing are all things that can complicate this. I agree with what Keephope advised about sealing the trunk and having a way for the bass to pass into the cabin to actually receive cabin gain, otherwise like he said you will be wasting bass.

chefzane
06-06-2013, 12:17 PM
Let me try to reword this, you got an answer but I am a little past the point where your answer is needed.

Already flipped the speakers to the cabin side as KHA said and my back deck and cabin side face of box create a wall between the cabin and trunk and the trunk has all vents and holes sealed itself :
1. when ran without sealing the trunk side of the box it sounded great
2. when ran with cover sealing the trunk side it seems that output is reduced
My thinking is this and tell me if I am wrong or right and suggest which way I should leave it:
A. When ran in configuration 1, the trunk is being used as a sealed box that is double if not more the size that it is in config 2, so is it okay to leave it uncovered
B. Or should I run it in config 2 so it will reduce rattles with it not being open to the whole *** end of the car, and not have so many odd angles to bounce off of

And just thought of this is config 1 more output because the back wave of the speaker is bouncing all around the larger trunk-based box instead of being confined to the smaller actual box?

i2ain2thunder
06-06-2013, 12:26 PM
What is the oval shaped hole, where is it located? I'm reading and rereading but I apologize I'm missing the whole concept of this window, where it will be located.

chefzane
06-06-2013, 01:04 PM
Bump

chefzane
06-06-2013, 05:57 PM
Alright update time and another dilemma:

Instead of putting a lexan window in the oval hole in the back I just added another layer of wood for extra rigidity. This was played for a day without the hole covered as a kind of sealed box cuz my trunk is completely sealed. Sounded great this way. Then yesterday made the cover and installed it and when I played it last night it seamed like it wasnt as powerful? Did it sound better because being open and the trunk being sealed it was a bigger box?

And what should I seal the cover with if it needs to seal but be removable?

Bump

chefzane
06-07-2013, 09:30 AM
Bump

Kinda need a suggestion here, read a couple posts above for whole story

chefzane
06-10-2013, 09:23 PM
Well as is usual with a car setup things change:
I have decided to put the amps on a false bottom with a cover over them and a large plexi window in the cover to see them. Probably, eh maybe, be hinged at the back and actuators to lift without unwiring or unmounting the amps and also allows for a custom tool kit panel and etc to be underneath as well as a few goodies for the suspension later.

Fans mounted in the false bottom and holes in the plexi for ventilation or we might vent through back deck with a push fan and pull fan through dual existing 3.5" holes from a previous attempt at porting. Or another idea being knocked around is removing the stock taillights and license plate holder on the vertical face of the trunk lid , smoothing the surface over with sheet metal and bondo, frenching in the license plate and then two pockets with updraft vents to keep water out with two fans at the top of the vents one push one pull. I dunno you give me ur opinion. I think a custom trunk lid setup for actual use in the system will get some style points in competition.

Then match the sides by building another box on the passenger side ( only frame in picture). The driver side box is goin to house the battery below and the distros and fuses on top. The passenger side will hold secrets to be announced later and the processor on top.

Then the fun begins!!! All except the two side box vertical cover panels and and maybe some accent or trim pieces are getting GLASSED!!! Yep my whole trunk is getting glassed and so is the front between the seat and sub face. Gonna make it a solid face butted up to rear deck down to a slight curve that goes down to meet the seat bottom so I can take the seat off when showing and put the seat on to qualify for certain classes at comps and to cart the kids around. And yes I have a kill switch on my subs for when my 5 and 7 year holds are in the car so I don't blow them out!

Also we are removing the stock trunk lid hinges and arms and latch and going to use some kind of hold downs for now and make stands out of square tubing. Later new hinges and mini actuators salvaged from the original setup. Maybe hood pins? I need ideas here for the trunk lid fasteners that will hold them secure enough to not rattle as well as fasteners for the back panel of the sub box as it will be removeable and needs to hold the panel tight enough to seal the weather stripping and seal the box(its a sealed box). Cam locks, hood pins, bolts and t-nuts?

chefzane
06-11-2013, 01:28 AM
Any advice guys

chefzane
06-11-2013, 09:52 AM
Well as is usual with a car setup things change:
I have decided to put the amps on a false bottom with a cover over them and a large plexi window in the cover to see them. Probably, eh maybe, be hinged at the back and actuators to lift without unwiring or unmounting the amps and also allows for a custom tool kit panel and etc to be underneath as well as a few goodies for the suspension later.

Fans mounted in the false bottom and holes in the plexi for ventilation or we might vent through back deck with a push fan and pull fan through dual existing 3.5" holes from a previous attempt at porting. Or another idea being knocked around is removing the stock taillights and license plate holder on the vertical face of the trunk lid , smoothing the surface over with sheet metal and bondo, frenching in the license plate and then two pockets with updraft vents to keep water out with two fans at the top of the vents one push one pull. I dunno you give me ur opinion. I think a custom trunk lid setup for actual use in the system will get some style points in competition.

Then match the sides by building another box on the passenger side ( only frame in picture). The driver side box is goin to house the battery below and the distros and fuses on top. The passenger side will hold secrets to be announced later and the processor on top.

Then the fun begins!!! All except the two side box vertical cover panels and and maybe some accent or trim pieces are getting GLASSED!!! Yep my whole trunk is getting glassed and so is the front between the seat and sub face. Gonna make it a solid face butted up to rear deck down to a slight curve that goes down to meet the seat bottom so I can take the seat off when showing and put the seat on to qualify for certain classes at comps and to cart the kids around. And yes I have a kill switch on my subs for when my 5 and 7 year holds are in the car so I don't blow them out!

Also we are removing the stock trunk lid hinges and arms and latch and going to use some kind of hold downs for now and make stands out of square tubing. Later new hinges and mini actuators salvaged from the original setup. Maybe hood pins? I need ideas here for the trunk lid fasteners that will hold them secure enough to not rattle as well as fasteners for the back panel of the sub box as it will be removeable and needs to hold the panel tight enough to seal the weather stripping and seal the box(its a sealed box). Cam locks, hood pins, bolts and t-nuts?

Any advice

i2ain2thunder
06-11-2013, 10:14 AM
I don't have much experience with any of that. Sorry friend. I mean I know how much you care about the looks, but one must first get the car to sound great, then looks can be enhanced from there. Is my only .02
They do make some sort of mechanical bolts that can be controlled by remote and they can raise/lower into nuts. I know I've heard of this, don't have a good example for you.

chefzane
06-11-2013, 10:35 AM
Thanks anyone else?

chefzane
07-06-2013, 12:35 PM
Update

I have deadened the trunk with two layers of fatmat, the trunk lids with three layers and under the back seat and sub face behind it with two layers, two more cans of foam have been dispersed and going to start sealing and deadening the doors this week as my four channel blew so might as well do the front stage wiring and construction as well while I wait on my four channel to come back in. This means a pillar pods for 1" tweets, vifa or selenium, and a pillar pods for 3" mids, and the doors built out to hold CDT 6.5 mids and my 8"s plus the wiring for all ran under the carpets. The carpets and seats and accent panels are all getting dyed black or blue, the hard plastic trim and dash and console are getting smoothed and either painted or wrapped in graphic vinyl. The inside of the trunk is still mostly planned as described earlier and will be getting started soon. As with any project it is ever evolving and changing.

I can't get pics to upload anyone know why

chefzane
08-10-2013, 09:00 PM
Here is two videos of the other day, I am running two runs of 1/0 execution audio tomorrow and finishing the shrink wrap on my wires and finding a home for the new air intake I had to buy to fit the wiring, circuit breakers, and bigger battery I have to build a tray for, then in two weeks more deadener and ccf over whole car and backs of every piece going in, and building out the trunk a little more, got fans for the amp rack that can blow leaves off the driveway when four are on, going in trunk so hope its sealed enough from the cabin to not hear lol, 2 push 2 pull

Pic 1 me
Pic 2 my sous chef wiring his hearing aids with 1/0 for more inner ear debeez
Pic 3 my son hunter
Pic 4 my son gage

chefzane
08-10-2013, 11:51 PM
Vids, yes they **** but good before and after deadening shots

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78ePtLugky8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcCJ8WX1Mlc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

drummer4261900
08-21-2013, 07:43 PM
good stuff!!