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View Full Version : Wiring up an old school work truck with some old school gear.



2dumb4words
03-29-2013, 11:02 PM
Note to admin: feel free to move this to the appropriate forum. Thanks.

Snowballs rolling. Recent spring cleaning pushed a decision as "what to do with all that gear from way back"? I've got a decent pile of old gear that should be "gud nuff". The old work truck is a 98 GMC 1500 extended cab 4wd.

System will be an old Pioneer DEH-P4000 head unit, an MTX Pro150 (I think) bridged to a single MTX 12". An old (model escapes me) Precision power 4-channel amp. For mids and highs, I've got some A/D/S 300i's 2 rather well enjoyed, and 2 NOS. not sure how practical they will be. Was hoping to mount them on the rear pillars, but it looks like a real PITA to access. Any ideas, or shortcuts?

Also, the "Aux" outputs on the power distribution block of the truck have 30 amp fuses. Will the block support a bigger fuse? How many amps would be safe before overloading the block? I should have all necessary cables and wires, a fused amp distribution block etc. Any suggestions for an easy to access solid ground (rear seat belts or?) Ill be using 4 gauge power and ground to distribution blocks on each.

Ive put a few systems together over the years, but focused on home audio quite a few years ago. Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions.

2dumb4words
03-31-2013, 12:07 AM
Wow, 90+ views, and not even a snarky comment? Anyway, today I rounded up the odds and ends. Pulled all the wires. 3 sets of RCA's (one extra just in case), bi-wires to the doors (just in case) Drivers side door plate was rusted stuck. Funny to be putting a system in a beat old truck. Feel like a kid again. Rain shut me down a little early. Should wrap up the install soon, tomorrow being Easter means family time.

Guess there's no "short cuts" for those rear pillar speakers eh? Yanking the back seat and removing all the plastic just ain't happening. More work than I'm in this gig for. I'm still thinking it may be do able to cut the plastic from the front, remove the existing driver and install a plate mount speaker over the new hole. Just not sure how easy fishing wires and mounting will go. And once you start hacking it up, your kinda committed.

Anyway, still curious as to the current capacity of the auxillary lugs on the vehicle main panel. The 30 amp probably will be taxed. I'd like to replace the 30 amp with the biggest possible. Barring any solid info, I guess I'll just add a fusible link. The auxillary outputs on the vehicle box sure look like their made for it, just don't want to burn it up;)

2dumb4words
03-31-2013, 09:14 PM
Dead horse bump. 120 views, nothing but crickets.

Joseph7195
03-31-2013, 10:17 PM
Welcome!! Lots of us guys love some old school gear, I would love to see some of the equipment. You don't seem to be doing anything wrong, so probably not much help From an installation aspect. But the back seats would definitely have to come out to remove the plastic C-pillars. It's not as bad as you would think, and us it will give you a chance to get even more familiar with your truck. If things go all well, a layer of sound deadening could help remove the noise from the big engine for that 4 wheel drive. And again welcome!,

audiobaun
03-31-2013, 10:28 PM
I enjoy old school amps:naughty:,and have a 98 chevy 3dr.You can remove the panels, but go easy,as you may crack/break them,.Another way is to just add speaker pods,..something I myself have been looking at.At the moment,I have some speakers in the top of the back windows in an enclosure I made myself,yet, I plan on either making some pods, or buying some
6 1 2 Component Speakers Custom Car Enclosure Pod Mount | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261045764036?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)

audiobaun
03-31-2013, 10:30 PM
Under the back seat/There is a Bolt,in the middle,that I have utilized for the ground with 0ga,to a distro block for additions

2dumb4words
03-31-2013, 11:25 PM
Welcome!! Lots of us guys love some old school gear, I would love to see some of the equipment. You don't seem to be doing anything wrong, so probably not much help From an installation aspect. But the back seats would definitely have to come out to remove the plastic C-pillars. It's not as bad as you would think, and us it will give you a chance to get even more familiar with your truck. If things go all well, a layer of sound deadening could help remove the noise from the big engine for that 4 wheel drive. And again welcome!,

I'm pretty sure ill pass on yanking that back seat and pulling apart all the panels. I've done other vehicles and understand the snowball of that whole mess. And besides, I've got about half a day to wrap it up and have it ready to go back to work. With the weather breaking, I'm about to get BUSY. I've actually kept the exhaust as quiet as possible. Being a work truck, I hate the droning growl of loud pipes.

2dumb4words
03-31-2013, 11:29 PM
I enjoy old school amps:naughty:,and have a 98 chevy 3dr.You can remove the panels, but go easy,as you may crack/break them,.Another way is to just add speaker pods,..something I myself have been looking at.At the moment,I have some speakers in the top of the back windows in an enclosure I made myself,yet, I plan on either making some pods, or buying some
6 1 2 Component Speakers Custom Car Enclosure Pod Mount | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261045764036?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)

Thanks for the link. Those might be a better option. I've seen them used in doors and kick panels, never occurred to me to use something like that, have to get some dimensions and look again. Thanks.

2dumb4words
03-31-2013, 11:34 PM
Under the back seat/There is a Bolt,in the middle,that I have utilized for the ground with 0ga,to a distro block for additions

Got back behind the seat today, plotting and scheming. Saw a series of big bolts back there. Problem solved. Still curious what the limits of the Aux outs on the vehicle distribution block under the hood are. Unless I hear otherwise, I will assume the 30 amp fuses are the max rated and simply use a separate fusible link.