PDA

View Full Version : Speaker layout



jcraft
01-18-2013, 09:46 AM
Hi all,

Putting together a budget system in my PT cruiser. Here is what I have done so far. I installed two new 3 way Kenwood 6.5" in the doors and used dynamat as well. I have install Polk 5x7 three ways in the rear panels. These will all be fed ( installing this weekend) by a Rockford Fosgate 300-4 ( 50x4). I also have a JVC 200 watt bridged amp feeding a 12" sub in the back. I have been running everything for a year or so like this except for the RF amp I just got and am going to install. Couple things, first regarding speakers. There are small factory tweeters mounted in the top of the dash, one on each side. I am wondering from a sound quality standpoint if I should keep these tweeters active or if it would sound better overall to eliminate being I have 3 ways in the door. I also don't want to blow them. It will take a bit of work to disconnect to try so I was wondering if anyone out there has done this to try and improve sound quality. Second, not related to speakers is I have the stock alternator which is 130 amps. With this power output do you think the stock will work. Working the numbers it seems the entire system will only draw about 50 amps. And also would the big 3 help for this small of a setup. Thanks

trumpet
01-18-2013, 11:14 AM
Instead of the Big 3 I would upgrade the ground wires. Replace the ground from the battery to the frame and from the frame to the engine block. Leave the alternator positive wire alone. I recommend you crimp and solder the terminals, tape or use heat shrink tube to finish off the ends, scrape the paint off at the ground points, then paint over the connections to seal them from oxygen.

When you have factory separate tweeters it's smart to replace them by using a 2-way component set. It will take more work than putting in coaxials but everything worth doing takes more time and effort. If new speakers is out of the question then you should disconnect the tweeters when you install the amplifier.

A 130 amp alternator is bigger than what most cars get. That leaves plenty of current to run the vehicle. Your system should only occasionally pull maximum current.

trumpet
01-18-2013, 11:14 AM
Instead of the Big 3 I would upgrade the ground wires. Replace the ground from the battery to the frame and from the frame to the engine block. Leave the alternator positive wire alone. I recommend you crimp and solder the terminals, tape or use heat shrink tube to finish off the ends, scrape the paint off at the ground points, then paint over the connections to seal them from oxygen.

When you have factory separate tweeters it's smart to replace them by using a 2-way component set. It will take more work than putting in coaxials but everything worth doing takes more time and effort. If new speakers is out of the question then you should disconnect the tweeters when you install the amplifier.

A 130 amp alternator is bigger than what most cars get. That leaves plenty of current to run the vehicle. Your system should only occasionally pull maximum current.

jcraft
01-18-2013, 11:43 AM
What size ground wire would be good for this size system ?

eddie_93
01-18-2013, 12:53 PM
What size ground wire would be good for this size system ?
Just 4 gauge should be fine but using 0 gauge couldn't hurt and would be nice if you were ever going to upgrade power in your car. Especially since you can just buy a few feet of 0 gauge online.

trumpet
01-18-2013, 02:17 PM
What size ground wire would be good for this size system ?

For that size alternator 4 gauge OFC cable is adequate. Welding cable would be a smart choice if you can get it locally. It's got a jacket that's very durable and it would last a long time near your engine. I'm not an advocate of using 0 gauge "just because" when it's a factory alternator. Usually that means people get cheap 0 gauge wire because the good stuff is several dollars a foot.