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View Full Version : 14 RMS vs 22 RMS



raptor77
12-02-2012, 04:18 PM
Hi,

I bought a Pioneer DEHP8400BH but it says it's 14 RMS on the box and it doesn't mention the 22 RMS like on the website.

I'm thinking to return it for a Alpine (CDE-133BT) since I don't need HD radio and all that stuff since I'm in Canada :P.

Although, why the other brands (like kenwood/alpine) says the output of their head units are 22/18 RMS? Is it CEA 2006 certified also?

Thanks,

TheUnderFighter
12-02-2012, 04:25 PM
None of those make their rated power. And you won't hear the difference between that power anyways. They'll all make around 10w or so. And for future reference, the CEA certifications are inapplicable and relatively worthless.

Sleeklsc
12-02-2012, 04:47 PM
The 22rms for the Pioneers is the rated power @ 5% thd. The 14rms is cea certified though. Check out the manual online and it'll be in the specs.

dragnix
12-02-2012, 04:50 PM
get an amp, just get an amp

nu2spl
12-02-2012, 05:10 PM
None of those make their rated power. And you won't hear the difference between that power anyways. They'll all make around 10w or so. And for future reference, the CEA certifications are inapplicable and relatively worthless.

ok then whats the point????

whitemax
12-02-2012, 05:14 PM
Those few watts are not really a worthwhile reason to switch your headunit.

Get a headunit with the options that you want & get an amp as mentioned. Even a small amplifier will make a world of difference when compared to headunit power.

rebelfromva
12-02-2012, 05:26 PM
you know what's crazy, my hu is 2 ohm stable apparently lol. Wonder what hu would be rated @2?

raptor77
12-02-2012, 05:30 PM
Just to mention: Im only upgrading the radio in my stock hyundai accent. Not looking for an amp right now.

NoLoud4U
12-02-2012, 05:35 PM
Just to mention: Im only upgrading the radio in my stock hyundai accent. Not looking for an amp right now.

Head unit power is very low and will distort fast. You're going to need a amp

raptor77
12-02-2012, 05:51 PM
Alright, If I do get an amp then where do you suggest I install it? My car is a hyundai accent 2010 hatchback. There's almost not much room.


edit: recommend me an amp (best quality/price) budget: 200$~

TheUnderFighter
12-02-2012, 07:43 PM
ok then whats the point????

Marketing sir. To sell more products to uninformed consumers.


Alright, If I do get an amp then where do you suggest I install it? My car is a hyundai accent 2010 hatchback. There's almost not much room.
edit: recommend me an amp (best quality/price) budget: 200$~
I'd say under the seat. But I think just upgrading the head-unit will be a nice enough upgrade. If you change out the speakers to something decent, then I'd say get an amp. Regardless, a good, affordable, small-footprint amp that I would recommend is the PPI Phantom 900.4. : Precision Power PPI P900.4 (p9004) 4-Channel Phantom Car Amplifier (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38338_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4.html)
These things have been going out of stock non-stop since they've been released.

raptor77
12-03-2012, 09:38 AM
None of those make their rated power. And you won't hear the difference between that power anyways. They'll all make around 10w or so. And for future reference, the CEA certifications are inapplicable and relatively worthless.

I'm curious about this.. would you mind explaining why?

TheUnderFighter
12-03-2012, 06:37 PM
I'm curious about this.. would you mind explaining why?

Well they might make 14 watts when turned up to maximum volume. But then you'd have a TON of distortion and likely clipping as well. I'd say you probably have around 10w of clean power. Regardless, you're not going to hear the difference between 10 and 14 watts. And you're still getting more power and cleaner power than your factory head-unit. I wouldn't worry about "power" on an aftermarket head-unit. That's not what it's for. It's there for cleaner signal, more features, more sound control, and more upgrade options.

d77543020
12-03-2012, 10:25 PM
keep that 8400 is a nice deck for the money

oldschool4me
12-03-2012, 10:43 PM
yea you would see 10w rms from a hu at most. likely less. if you dont plan to upgrade speakers etc then why not use stock hu? idk what year your car is but most newer cars have decent stock sound and likely steering wheel contols, voice controls, nav etc. could be costly for the install kits as well. if its old then i understand and wouldnt worry about what the output rating is. they are all about the same. like said just stick with the pioneer.

dragnix
12-03-2012, 10:48 PM
are you looking for a 2ch. or a 4ch. amp? And that PPI is a beast, I had 2 of them. Still regretting that I sold one :(

raptor77
12-04-2012, 06:16 PM
yea you would see 10w rms from a hu at most. likely less. if you dont plan to upgrade speakers etc then why not use stock hu? idk what year your car is but most newer cars have decent stock sound and likely steering wheel contols, voice controls, nav etc. could be costly for the install kits as well. if its old then i understand and wouldnt worry about what the output rating is. they are all about the same. like said just stick with the pioneer.
Because I like to listen to music on my phone in the car. But the stock hu is bad for that. You have to change songs on the phone. I don't want to do that because it's not safe


are you looking for a 2ch. or a 4ch. amp? And that PPI is a beast, I had 2 of them. Still regretting that I sold one :(
Yea it looks like a good amp. I'm not really sure yet. I guess I'll start with my new headunit and see after

zako
12-04-2012, 09:39 PM
None of those make their rated power. And you won't hear the difference between that power anyways. They'll all make around 10w or so. And for future reference, the CEA certifications are inapplicable and relatively worthless.

Have been reading many head unit reviews at avtozvuk.com. Per their methodology system, most head units they tested do produce 14-18watts RMS of power, at 1%THD (Voltage unspecified..). In any case, I wouldn't lose sleep over the difference between 14 and 20watts. Both are inadequate except for powering active tweeters, active small dome mid-range, or real fill.