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knotdrummer88
11-18-2012, 01:00 PM
Im going to start my first fiberglass project soon which is my door panels. How should I secure the fleece? Should I use hot glue? staples or adhesive? and if I am to use staples, are the air staplers the only ones powerful enough to go through the plastic? Also, should the fabric wrap around the back of the door panel? I have other questions as well, but ill wait to see what you guys say about these.
Thanks

mlstrass
11-20-2012, 02:45 AM
I use a hot glue gun and usually end up gluing to the back side of the panel. Really depends upon if you're doing pods for full build outs.

I use an electric stapler to attach the fabric to the rings or baffles after doing a rabbet...

mklett33
11-20-2012, 02:41 PM
Im going to start my first fiberglass project soon which is my door panels. How should I secure the fleece? Should I use hot glue? staples or adhesive? and if I am to use staples, are the air staplers the only ones powerful enough to go through the plastic? Also, should the fabric wrap around the back of the door panel? I have other questions as well, but ill wait to see what you guys say about these.
Thanks

If you are going to be learning glassing you are definitely going to want to check out my youtube channel. I have been working on a series of tutorials teaching all that I know about glassing. Although I am currently doing an amp rack build there are many lessons that will carry over to dorr panels. Take a look at this thread:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/560250-how-make-flawless-fiberglass-insert-template-shapes-scratch-%2A%2Avideos%2A%2A.html

I never attach fleece directly to plastic, I have had much more success making a wooden "frame" and bonding it to the plastic, and then stapling all the fleece to that wooden frame. Much cleaner in my opinion. Plus if you plan on wrapping the panel with any sort of material the more removable pieces the better. Give you somewhere to hide your gaps. Draw us a picture of what you are planning and I would love to give you some suggestions!

knotdrummer88
11-21-2012, 02:02 AM
If you are going to be learning glassing you are definitely going to want to check out my youtube channel. I have been working on a series of tutorials teaching all that I know about glassing. Although I am currently doing an amp rack build there are many lessons that will carry over to dorr panels. Take a look at this thread:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/560250-how-make-flawless-fiberglass-insert-template-shapes-scratch-%2A%2Avideos%2A%2A.html

I never attach fleece directly to plastic, I have had much more success making a wooden "frame" and bonding it to the plastic, and then stapling all the fleece to that wooden frame. Much cleaner in my opinion. Plus if you plan on wrapping the panel with any sort of material the more removable pieces the better. Give you somewhere to hide your gaps. Draw us a picture of what you are planning and I would love to give you some suggestions!

awsome thanks man, and ill try to upload a picture of my thoughts. its gonna be tough to fit what I want on the door panel. Im doing two 6.5"s and one super tweet in each door, and its in a jeep cherokee. There is no room for them between the seat and the door panel, so it all has to be in front. But I will try to upload a picture, and when you say not attatching the fleece directly to the plastic but a wooden frame rather, is that attatched to the panel, or does it replace the panel?

mklett33
11-21-2012, 02:21 PM
The wooden frame is then attached to the panel. You coud do all out wood and start fresh, but thats pretty advanced stuff, I would say adhere the wooden panel to the plastic.

knotdrummer88
11-22-2012, 04:59 AM
The wooden frame is then attached to the panel. You coud do all out wood and start fresh, but thats pretty advanced stuff, I would say adhere the wooden panel to the plastic.

awesome, thanks man. yeah today I picked up my 3m adhesive and I got the rings ready for the first door panel, now I jut have to find my hot glue gun. also, for the stapling do you use an air stapler or a manuel one?

Kingstroker
11-22-2012, 12:43 PM
I've done a lot of upholstery work and am partial to air guns. You need to be able to adjust air pressure, with too much you will cut through the fabric. Practice on something else using the same materials. Pull on the fleece after stapling to make sure it is not held just by the staple legs only.

mklett33
11-23-2012, 10:00 PM
awesome, thanks man. yeah today I picked up my 3m adhesive and I got the rings ready for the first door panel, now I jut have to find my hot glue gun. also, for the stapling do you use an air stapler or a manuel one?

I have never had any trouble with my electronic one, but I am only using 1/8 inch staples.

knotdrummer88
11-24-2012, 12:37 PM
I've done a lot of upholstery work and am partial to air guns. You need to be able to adjust air pressure, with too much you will cut through the fabric. Practice on something else using the same materials. Pull on the fleece after stapling to make sure it is not held just by the staple legs only.

what do you mean not just held by just the legs of the staple? like if the staple is not all the way into the plastic? and also, I got type 77 3m adhesive for the fleece as well. Should I just staple one end, then spray it and stretch it tight and staple the other side?

Kingstroker
11-24-2012, 02:16 PM
the stapling part of the statement would be more for and wood or MDF, you want the piece between the staple legs to be tight against the material without cutting through it. As far as plastic, of course you would fold the legs flat. Test your adhesive out on samples and follow the directions. Spray adhesives can soak through some materials if applied too thick or if the material is too thin. If what you are covering is flat sometimes you can apply your adhesive on the back side around the edges and you won't have to worry about it soaking through. If you get good adhesion you won't need staples. Take the time to test everything before you work on the final product. Pictures are priceless when seeking advice.

knotdrummer88
11-24-2012, 02:32 PM
the stapling part of the statement would be more for and wood or MDF, you want the piece between the staple legs to be tight against the material without cutting through it. As far as plastic, of course you would fold the legs flat. Test your adhesive out on samples and follow the directions. Spray adhesives can soak through some materials if applied too thick or if the material is too thin. If what you are covering is flat sometimes you can apply your adhesive on the back side around the edges and you won't have to worry about it soaking through. If you get good adhesion you won't need staples. Take the time to test everything before you work on the final product. Pictures are priceless when seeking advice.

ok, yeah Im gonna post some pictures tonight hopefully

knotdrummer88
11-25-2012, 12:28 AM
These are pictures of what the mounting rings look like and where there gonna sit

knotdrummer88
11-25-2012, 12:29 AM
These are pictures of what the mounting rings look like and where there gonna sit

oh, and as you might have figured the masking tape is where the dash comes to

maylar
11-25-2012, 11:38 AM
What do you intend to do with the door pocket?

knotdrummer88
11-25-2012, 12:01 PM
What do you intend to do with the door pocket?

It will be cut out

GopsBynccounc
11-25-2012, 01:27 PM
Does anyone know anything about panel repair? I got a door panel in the mail and the guy sent it in a trashbag... the particle board wooden frame of it is bent. Ive watched videos on how to repair cracks in vinyl, but is there a way to straighten out the wood and then apply something that makes it stiff again?

If that makes sense

knotdrummer88
11-25-2012, 05:47 PM
Does anyone know anything about panel repair? I got a door panel in the mail and the guy sent it in a trashbag... the particle board wooden frame of it is bent. Ive watched videos on how to repair cracks in vinyl, but is there a way to straighten out the wood and then apply something that makes it stiff again?

If that makes sense

Poast dump?:confused:

knotdrummer88
11-26-2012, 07:21 PM
babump

neonblack
11-26-2012, 09:15 PM
I just cut a hole in my panel (originally 6x4) and set my ADS 6.5's in there (and built mounts, of course). I had to cut a little sheet metal out but that was easy. Not many choices wrt mounting because driver can get in the way of the window (when it's down). I have Sunfire '98 which looks similar to yours.

knotdrummer88
11-28-2012, 12:38 AM
I just cut a hole in my panel (originally 6x4) and set my ADS 6.5's in there (and built mounts, of course). I had to cut a little sheet metal out but that was easy. Not many choices wrt mounting because driver can get in the way of the window (when it's down). I have Sunfire '98 which looks similar to yours.

But I want to have them fiberglassed into the panel

keep_hope_alive
11-28-2012, 02:39 PM
also plan on removing metal to allow for adequate airflow into the door panel. the woofers need plenty of airspace - more than what the pods will provide. i agree your best bet is another wooden piece to outline the point where the mounting pod attaches to the door. a few dowel rods glued in place will allow you to position the mounting baffle as desired. that way you have a piece you can glass from a workbench and not on the panel - then cut out the panel, secure the pod to the panel (leave enough door panel material to allow you to screw them together. then seal, smooth, sand, and finish. are you going to paint or cover the entire panel?

with the additional weight of the new pods, you'll want to ensure the panel stays put and doesn't vibrate - additional screws or attachment points may be prudent.

knotdrummer88
11-28-2012, 03:47 PM
also plan on removing metal to allow for adequate airflow into the door panel. the woofers need plenty of airspace - more than what the pods will provide. i agree your best bet is another wooden piece to outline the point where the mounting pod attaches to the door. a few dowel rods glued in place will allow you to position the mounting baffle as desired. that way you have a piece you can glass from a workbench and not on the panel - then cut out the panel, secure the pod to the panel (leave enough door panel material to allow you to screw them together. then seal, smooth, sand, and finish. are you going to paint or cover the entire panel?

with the additional weight of the new pods, you'll want to ensure the panel stays put and doesn't vibrate - additional screws or attachment points may be prudent.

as far as covering, Im not sure yet. and on the door panel should I remove the arm rest and tuck the fabric behind there? Im just kind of hesitant to do that because they're riveted in there with plastic rivets. Do you think it would be find if I drilled them out, but then screwed then back in in the rivet holes, maybe with the addition of some locktite?

keep_hope_alive
11-28-2012, 11:13 PM
you either have a pod that looks like a pod just mounted to a door, or you recover the whole door (or bottom half) for a seamless look.

knotdrummer88
11-30-2012, 04:26 AM
you either have a pod that looks like a pod just mounted to a door, or you recover the whole door (or bottom half) for a seamless look.

Im thinking about fiberglassing the bottom half, and making a seamless transition into the door

mlstrass
11-30-2012, 05:23 AM
as far as covering, Im not sure yet. and on the door panel should I remove the arm rest and tuck the fabric behind there? Im just kind of hesitant to do that because they're riveted in there with plastic rivets. Do you think it would be find if I drilled them out, but then screwed then back in in the rivet holes, maybe with the addition of some locktite?

you can probably just tuck the fabric into the seam with a metal putty knife. I'd be leary of cutting off the rivets unless you're 100% you can screw it back on strong since you pull on the door handle to close the door.

knotdrummer88
12-01-2012, 11:53 AM
you can probably just tuck the fabric into the seam with a metal putty knife. I'd be leary of cutting off the rivets unless you're 100% you can screw it back on strong since you pull on the door handle to close the door.

thats a good point, up until now I actually hadnt thought about what the door handle is actually there for!:crazy: