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View Full Version : How's it lookin' ? First box



Montana
09-19-2012, 12:46 PM
So, I love the car audio gig, just getting into it, so I figured I'd start learning to build boxes, this is my first one ever, so how does it appear to be going?


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The box is 40 Inch wide, 22 deep, 12.5 high, 6 inch port.

Looking for 4.2 cubes tuned at 35Hz


Today I am going to sand it down, round the corners inside, lay in some corner "V" pieces so the inside is rounded, and look into fiberglass. I painted a small piece of scrap with some fiberglass resin waiting for it to dry to see how it feels. Going to read up on figerglassing, or other methods.


One big thing I don't know yet, do I put the subs on top, or front? I was thinking on top; I feel like air would get pushed around better because it's not getting pushed into the back wall then has to escape, its just down and out if it's on top. Or do I want air to stay inside for longer


Edit: Only one bad cut I managed to leave .75 too much on the far left side, going to just power sand it away once I start sanding. :P

SourDeez
09-19-2012, 12:53 PM
Looks legit.

dbeez
09-19-2012, 12:57 PM
Ummm what's with the port didn't want to make a nice L slot port it may cause some issues how it is now.

Jaguar
09-19-2012, 01:05 PM
I'd suggest sanding the wood glue down to smooth surfaces but only because there does not seem to be any method of standard application,
and possibly consider adding some 45's...

mazdakid
09-19-2012, 01:09 PM
Port is different than i would have done it but definately looks way better than my first one.

snoopdan
09-19-2012, 01:14 PM
Well, here's the thing about where to mount the sub - what kind of vehicle is it going in? Also, I wouldn't bother rounding corners unless you're going to be competing in SPL and are trying to get tenths on the meter.

Montana
09-19-2012, 01:23 PM
Well, here's the thing about where to mount the sub - what kind of vehicle is it going in? Also, I wouldn't bother rounding corners unless you're going to be competing in SPL and are trying to get tenths on the meter.

Oh, I didn't know it made that little of a jump, I won't bother then. I'll just do a real good sanding job.

Lincoln LS - Sedan

Montana
09-19-2012, 01:24 PM
I'd suggest sanding the wood glue down to smooth surfaces but only because there does not seem to be any method of standard application,
and possibly consider adding some 45's...

I mentioned both of those things that I am doing today in my topic starter. :suave:

Montana
09-19-2012, 01:26 PM
Ummm what's with the port didn't want to make a nice L slot port it may cause some issues how it is now.

I felt like a "L" port would possibly go weak after some time, with the air from the left sub being blasted up against it every hit, this way little port MDF get's hit by air straight on, hopefully making it last.


Bad idea?

snoopdan
09-19-2012, 01:46 PM
I felt like a "L" port would possibly go weak after some time, with the air from the left sub being blasted up against it every hit, this way little port MDF get's hit by air straight on, hopefully making it last.


Bad idea?

Its not gonna hurt it.

Montana
09-19-2012, 02:16 PM
Its not gonna hurt it.

Then I'll roll with it! I just got back from Lowes with Sandpaper :up2somet:

mylows10
09-19-2012, 02:24 PM
the design is called a compression design,these types are for usually lower powered systems that you wanna get loud or smaller subs to get a little deeper bass .put the 45's in all the corners ,and you might wanna put the sub on the same side as the port and as far away from it as you can .

Montana
09-19-2012, 05:41 PM
the design is called a compression design,these types are for usually lower powered systems that you wanna get loud or smaller subs to get a little deeper bass .put the 45's in all the corners ,and you might wanna put the sub on the same side as the port and as far away from it as you can .

I put the two 12s on top, the deed has already been done. I had fun building it, so I can just do another if need be.

What do you mean on the same side as the port and far away as possible, that doesn't make sense. :-P

Gonna fire it up today after work, I'll post results! :D Top is screwed on and Nails is drying, BOO-YAH

:crazy:

snoopdan
09-19-2012, 05:48 PM
I think he meant keep the sub hole as far away from the port as possible.

mylows10
09-19-2012, 08:27 PM
I think he meant keep the sub hole as far away from the port as possible.

this and the port has to be the same width all the way thru .the box works better if the subs are on the same side as the port

Montana
09-20-2012, 03:41 AM
And, it fits!

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I just used those Kenwoods to see if it fits, I pulled it back out and put the two SA-12 D4s in there.



Bumping hard

/Done
(Don't care to make it look pretty[carpet], it's a personal box, making one for a friend now after he heard the improvement from my cruddy store bought box to a REAL box, I'll make that one look pretty.

Future box builder. :patrioti:

:suave:

Now onto bigger and better things.

Joe89
09-20-2012, 06:38 PM
And, it fits!

26536204


I just used those Kenwoods to see if it fits, I pulled it back out and put the two SA-12 D4s in there.



Bumping hard

/Done
(Don't care to make it look pretty[carpet], it's a personal box, making one for a friend now after he heard the improvement from my cruddy store bought box to a REAL box, I'll make that one look pretty.

Future box builder. :patrioti:

:suave:

Now onto bigger and better things.

I'm glad you decided to build your own box, it is certainly a fun aspect of car audio in my opinion.

You mentioned using Liquid Nails, and while I have never used it myself, I find many recommend the method I use: Titebond, screws, and silicone for the edges/seams. Fiberglass also works for sealing, but if your cuts are precise silicone will seal everything up and take a lot less time to apply.

Anyways, keep up the good work, that is a good job for a first time builder :)

hispls
09-20-2012, 07:05 PM
I think you'll wish you put some bracing in there or double walled.

mylows10
09-20-2012, 07:09 PM
I think you'll wish you put some bracing in there or double walled.

not for sa 12's

RAM_Designs
09-20-2012, 07:49 PM
I think you'll wish you put some bracing in there or double walled.

This. Having 2ft by 2ft unbraced areas on any box is a no-no in my book. Even if it's for a pair of cheap Sony woofers, it's still going to resonate/flex.

Montana
09-21-2012, 01:52 AM
I'm glad you decided to build your own box, it is certainly a fun aspect of car audio in my opinion.

You mentioned using Liquid Nails, and while I have never used it myself, I find many recommend the method I use: Titebond, screws, and silicone for the edges/seams. Fiberglass also works for sealing, but if your cuts are precise silicone will seal everything up and take a lot less time to apply.

Anyways, keep up the good work, that is a good job for a first time builder :)

Thank you! I intend to make more boxes seeing as they are fairly cheap to make ($40 each give or take) and pawn them off for $50 locally min. to put a few dollars back in my pocket and gain experience! I'll look more into fiberglass for sealing, thanks!

Montana
09-21-2012, 01:53 AM
This. Having 2ft by 2ft unbraced areas on any box is a no-no in my book. Even if it's for a pair of cheap Sony woofers, it's still going to resonate/flex.

Maybe so, if this is the case I will of gained a good lesson!
What do you mean by braces? I know you mean some structual support, but how so?

Joe89
09-21-2012, 02:59 AM
Maybe so, if this is the case I will of gained a good lesson!
What do you mean by braces? I know you mean some structual support, but how so?

You can do threaded rod with washers and bolts sandwiching each piece of wood to be braced. You can also do "window" bracing with MDF, or simply use a 2x4 with screws and glue. I prefer threaded rod as it takes up relatively little volume for the amount of rigidity it provides.

Montana
09-21-2012, 12:52 PM
You can do threaded rod with washers and bolts sandwiching each piece of wood to be braced. You can also do "window" bracing with MDF, or simply use a 2x4 with screws and glue. I prefer threaded rod as it takes up relatively little volume for the amount of rigidity it provides.


Alright, my next box I'll look into that! tomorrow I am going to be cutting some scrap wood and practice kerfing.

:up2somet: