PDA

View Full Version : Starting over in my 2011 civic SI



8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 01:08 AM
Going for a slightly more aggressive sub stage this time, also plan on improving the power to the front and rear fill but havenít decided on how just yet. Aside from the head unit (pioneer avh-p4300dvd), and front stage speakers (kicker ss 6.5 component set) I am starting from the ground up, I even ran nicer RCA's, ditched the 4 gauge and ran some 0 gauge stinger HPM.

I will start the build log off by stating my intentions...

BIG 3 UPGRADE
DISABLE THE ELD SYSTEM IN THE CAR (NEED TO RESEARCH HOW TO DO THAT ON THIS VEHICLE)
SINGLE RUN OF STINGER HPM 0 GAUGE
WILL ALSO UPGRADE BATTERY IN UNDER THE HOOD AND ADD ONE IN THE TRUNK
HEAD UNIT: PIONEER AVH-P4300DVD
FRONT STAGE: KICKER SS 6.5 COMPS
REAR FILL: TO BE DETERMINED (CURRENTLY SOME POO POO QUALITY KICKER 5.25'S)
AMPLIFICATION: ELEMENTAL DESIGNS NINE.5 (THIS WILL CHANGE, WANT MORE POWER FOR SUB)
SUB STAGE: DC LEVEL 4

Box build starts next week, will be doing it at @mylows10 place over some BBQ and good food. THANK YOU JIM, guys like you make this forum even better! Pics will come soon.

Now for the pics, letís start it with a little showing off of the tool arsenal I am working with.

My new tool box, just delivered yesterday.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/toolbox.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/sockets.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/wrenches.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/screwdriver.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/pliers.jpg

winkychevelle
09-02-2012, 01:10 AM
just gotta ask how much did that box set you back? 12g? i know they are high but i have been using mack tools for a while but snap on has better service in the area i just moved to

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 01:11 AM
Here is some equipment pics.

ED Nine.5
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/edNINE5.jpg

DC level 4 12" Brand new (thanks again to mylows10 for a great deal and smooth transaction)
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/dcLVL4.jpg

Wire! yay!
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/wires.jpg

Dtrom
09-02-2012, 01:12 AM
I'm diggin that tool box!

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 01:13 AM
just gotta ask how much did that box set you back? 12g? i know they are high but i have been using mack tools for a while but snap on has better service in the area i just moved to

you wouldnt believe me if I told you but I got it for about 2500, after I traded in my tool cart for 1000 (I payed 850 for it). He hadn't sold a tool box in 2 months so I was able to bring him down quite a bit, and he gave me about 400 bucks worth of free tools.

I believe it retails for just over 7k.

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 01:15 AM
Getting my fat fingers into tight spaces is always fun ;)
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/big3ground.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/big3ground2.jpg

Ground portion is done!
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/big3ground-1.jpg

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 01:17 AM
I'm diggin that tool box!

Thank you sir, the orange is growing on me. The snap on guy told me to put a KTM sticker on it, I laughed at him and said I have never, and will never own a KTM.

winkychevelle
09-02-2012, 01:17 AM
you wouldnt believe me if I told you but I got it for about 2500, after I traded in my tool cart for 1000 (I payed 850 for it). He hadn't sold a tool box in 2 months so I was able to bring him down quite a bit.

well i was kinda considering it as a whole. roughly how much do you have in the whole box. my last box was a cornwell and i paid 3800 for it custom painted

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 01:22 AM
well i was kinda considering it as a whole. roughly how much do you have in the whole box. my last box was a cornwell and i paid 3800 for it custom painted

I will have about 4k just into the box when the stainless top arrives. If I include tools I would say around 10-12k if I include all of my tools that haven't been placed in the box yet.

winkychevelle
09-02-2012, 01:24 AM
I will have about 4k just into the box when the stainless top arrives. If I include tools I would say around 10-12k if I include all of my tools that haven't been placed in the box yet.

seems about right i know my initial cost was up there but the warranty is worth the money if you use your tools like i use mine

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 01:31 AM
seems about right i know my initial cost was up there but the warranty is worth the money if you use your tools like i use mine

I agree, once you use a snap-on or other high quality tool you will never want to use anything else. Also, when you pay 2-5 times the amount for a tool over craftsman you tend to take much better care of it. The warranty is sick! I gave my snap on guy a 15 year old ratchet that was broken and he gave me a brand new one on the spot.

mylows10
09-02-2012, 01:33 AM
wait till we build this compression ported box i designed ,should get really low with very little power

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 01:37 AM
wait till we build this compression ported box i designed ,should get really low with very little power

Can't wait to start the build! Ill bring the wood, matirials, and the food.

mylows10
09-02-2012, 01:38 AM
cool ,monday ? labor day bbq and box build

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 01:39 AM
cool ,monday ? labor day bbq and box build

Wish I could, gotta work. Farmers do not know the meaning of "holiday."

mylows10
09-02-2012, 01:43 AM
Wish I could, gotta work. Farmers do not know the meaning of "holiday."

i hear ya.didnt get the truck back today either ,something else going on with the transmission ,a solenoid i think .the torque converter clutch lock up isn't working .

winkychevelle
09-02-2012, 01:59 AM
wait till we build this compression ported box i designed ,should get really low with very little power

really? i may be interested in a similar design then im only gonna run two e10s to help promote an affordable system for my buddies new sound shop, but im trying to stay away for the large 4th order bandpass boxes and achieve good output and still get low

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 02:08 AM
really? i may be interested in a similar design then im only gonna run two e10s to help promote an affordable system for my buddies new sound shop, but im trying to stay away for the large 4th order bandpass boxes and achieve good output and still get low

Im excited to see how the box turns out, I have some ideas but we will waith for the pics.

jdmferio13
09-02-2012, 03:22 AM
Shoot me a pm ill explain how to bypass eld.

CAT MAN
09-02-2012, 03:25 AM
eld bypass is simple. looking good man. you will love that sub.

jdmferio13
09-02-2012, 03:26 AM
Open the hood. 2. Completely remove the factory air filter and airbox assembly from the vehicle (I'm sure there is a DIY for thatsomewhere on here, so I won't bother with instructions on howtodo so). 3. Locate the underhood fuse box and engine ECM (located behind the battery towards the firewall) 4. Remove the platic cover thatcovers the ECM. To do so, squeeze the center and pull upwards with a fair amount of force (the cover will pop off and slide upwards, revealing the ECM). 5. Unclip and remove the top plastic cover from the underhood fuse box (this is easily done by hand) 6. With the top cover off, you will notice thatthere are three snap clips that hold the main plastic section of the underhood fuse box tothe vehicle. Depress the three snap clips and pull the entire fusebox assembly upwards (you may need tofree one or twoofthe clips ata time, and then do the third one separately) 7. As you pull the fusebox assembly upwards, you will feel resistance and see a piece of wire loom tubing running out of the bottomofit(towards the ground). Follow this tubing with your hand (it is a tight squeeze) until you feel where it is clipped into the "framerail" of the vehicle with a pastic pop clip. Forcefully pull upwards on the wire in that area to pop the plastic clip free. 8. With the plastic clip free, you will now have enough slack to pull the fusebox upwards enough so thatyoucanturn itsideways. 9. With the fusebox sideways, look at where the wire loom comes out from the bottom. There may be a zip tie or tape holding the wire loom to the fuse box plastic. If so, you need to remove these items before going any further. Just cut the zip tie or peeloffthe tape as needed. 10. Once the zip tie/tape are gone, look once again at the main plastic section of the fusebox. You will see a small ridge in the lower portion. This ridge is where the bottom plastic cover snaps into the main part of the fusebox. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the lower plastic cover off, and slide it down the wire loom to get it out of the way. 11. Now, look at the wires that are underneath the bottom cover that you just removed. You will see a bunch of wires and a couple of different plugs. The plug for the ELD is roughly in the center of the box, and has three wires coming out of it- A Yellowwith Silver Hatches, A Solid Black, and An Orange with Silver Hatches.

The wires function as follows: Yellow Wire W/Silver Hatches &ndash; 12V power feed (From Ignition)<br /> Black Wire W/ Silver Hatches &ndash; Ground<br /> Orange Wire W Silver Hatches &ndash; 5V sensory feed (OuttoECM) 12. You now have a couple options: Option A - You can simply unhook the plug for the ELD from the fusebox, push it up out of the way, and re-install the cover. This will bypass the ELD completely and cause the alternatorto operate the way it did in most older domestic vehicles. Option B - You can cut, extend, and wire a switch into the sensory feed wire (the Orange Wire W/Silver Hatches), so thatwhen the switch is closed, the ELDfunctions the way Honda designed it to, and when the switch is open, the ELD is bypassed. Option C - You can do the same process as Option B (cut & extend the wire), except instead of a switch, you can use a relay wiredinto the head unit's remote circuit toturn the ELDon/off automatically whenever you turn the radio on/off. 13. Once you have performed one of the above options, you are ready to put it all back together. Re-asassembly: 14. Slide the lower plastic fusebox cover back over the wire loom, and snap it back into place on main plastic body of the fuse box (covering the bottom wiring). 15. Snap the main body of the fusebox back into place on the vehicle. 16. Locate the plastic clip that snapped intothe "framerail" on the main wire loom, and snap it back into the hole thatitcame outof. 17. Replace the top cover of the fusebox. 18. Slide and snap the plactic cover for the ECM back into place. 19. Re-install you airbox and filter (Again, I'm sure there is a DIY on airbox removal on here somewhere). 20. Close the hood. 21. Enjoy your improved voltage.

---------- Post added at 03:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

**** that's big sorry lol

CAT MAN
09-02-2012, 03:26 AM
wait till we build this compression ported box i designed ,should get really low with very little power
hows the 8 design going? i may have some free time before finals.

CAT MAN
09-02-2012, 03:31 AM
Open the hood. 2. Completely remove the factory air filter and airbox assembly from the vehicle (I'm sure there is a DIY for thatsomewhere on here, so I won't bother with instructions on howtodo so). 3. Locate the underhood fuse box and engine ECM (located behind the battery towards the firewall) 4. Remove the platic cover thatcovers the ECM. To do so, squeeze the center and pull upwards with a fair amount of force (the cover will pop off and slide upwards, revealing the ECM). 5. Unclip and remove the top plastic cover from the underhood fuse box (this is easily done by hand) 6. With the top cover off, you will notice thatthere are three snap clips that hold the main plastic section of the underhood fuse box tothe vehicle. Depress the three snap clips and pull the entire fusebox assembly upwards (you may need tofree one or twoofthe clips ata time, and then do the third one separately) 7. As you pull the fusebox assembly upwards, you will feel resistance and see a piece of wire loom tubing running out of the bottomofit(towards the ground). Follow this tubing with your hand (it is a tight squeeze) until you feel where it is clipped into the "framerail" of the vehicle with a pastic pop clip. Forcefully pull upwards on the wire in that area to pop the plastic clip free. 8. With the plastic clip free, you will now have enough slack to pull the fusebox upwards enough so thatyoucanturn itsideways. 9. With the fusebox sideways, look at where the wire loom comes out from the bottom. There may be a zip tie or tape holding the wire loom to the fuse box plastic. If so, you need to remove these items before going any further. Just cut the zip tie or peeloffthe tape as needed. 10. Once the zip tie/tape are gone, look once again at the main plastic section of the fusebox. You will see a small ridge in the lower portion. This ridge is where the bottom plastic cover snaps into the main part of the fusebox. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the lower plastic cover off, and slide it down the wire loom to get it out of the way. 11. Now, look at the wires that are underneath the bottom cover that you just removed. You will see a bunch of wires and a couple of different plugs. The plug for the ELD is roughly in the center of the box, and has three wires coming out of it- A Yellowwith Silver Hatches, A Solid Black, and An Orange with Silver Hatches.

The wires function as follows: Yellow Wire W/Silver Hatches &ndash; 12V power feed (From Ignition)<br /> Black Wire W/ Silver Hatches &ndash; Ground<br /> Orange Wire W Silver Hatches &ndash; 5V sensory feed (OuttoECM) 12. You now have a couple options: Option A - You can simply unhook the plug for the ELD from the fusebox, push it up out of the way, and re-install the cover. This will bypass the ELD completely and cause the alternatorto operate the way it did in most older domestic vehicles. Option B - You can cut, extend, and wire a switch into the sensory feed wire (the Orange Wire W/Silver Hatches), so thatwhen the switch is closed, the ELDfunctions the way Honda designed it to, and when the switch is open, the ELD is bypassed. Option C - You can do the same process as Option B (cut & extend the wire), except instead of a switch, you can use a relay wiredinto the head unit's remote circuit toturn the ELDon/off automatically whenever you turn the radio on/off. 13. Once you have performed one of the above options, you are ready to put it all back together. Re-asassembly: 14. Slide the lower plastic fusebox cover back over the wire loom, and snap it back into place on main plastic body of the fuse box (covering the bottom wiring). 15. Snap the main body of the fusebox back into place on the vehicle. 16. Locate the plastic clip that snapped intothe "framerail" on the main wire loom, and snap it back into the hole thatitcame outof. 17. Replace the top cover of the fusebox. 18. Slide and snap the plactic cover for the ECM back into place. 19. Re-install you airbox and filter (Again, I'm sure there is a DIY on airbox removal on here somewhere). 20. Close the hood. 21. Enjoy your improved voltage.

---------- Post added at 03:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

**** that's big sorry lol
reminds me of mobile enclosres.

mylows10
09-02-2012, 10:44 AM
Slow tony

I Like Waffle
09-02-2012, 10:51 AM
Nice tool collection and equipment, **** vehicle to use it on

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 11:37 AM
Open the hood. 2. Completely remove the factory air filter and airbox assembly from the vehicle (I'm sure there is a DIY for thatsomewhere on here, so I won't bother with instructions on howtodo so). 3. Locate the underhood fuse box and engine ECM (located behind the battery towards the firewall) 4. Remove the platic cover thatcovers the ECM. To do so, squeeze the center and pull upwards with a fair amount of force (the cover will pop off and slide upwards, revealing the ECM). 5. Unclip and remove the top plastic cover from the underhood fuse box (this is easily done by hand) 6. With the top cover off, you will notice thatthere are three snap clips that hold the main plastic section of the underhood fuse box tothe vehicle. Depress the three snap clips and pull the entire fusebox assembly upwards (you may need tofree one or twoofthe clips ata time, and then do the third one separately) 7. As you pull the fusebox assembly upwards, you will feel resistance and see a piece of wire loom tubing running out of the bottomofit(towards the ground). Follow this tubing with your hand (it is a tight squeeze) until you feel where it is clipped into the "framerail" of the vehicle with a pastic pop clip. Forcefully pull upwards on the wire in that area to pop the plastic clip free. 8. With the plastic clip free, you will now have enough slack to pull the fusebox upwards enough so thatyoucanturn itsideways. 9. With the fusebox sideways, look at where the wire loom comes out from the bottom. There may be a zip tie or tape holding the wire loom to the fuse box plastic. If so, you need to remove these items before going any further. Just cut the zip tie or peeloffthe tape as needed. 10. Once the zip tie/tape are gone, look once again at the main plastic section of the fusebox. You will see a small ridge in the lower portion. This ridge is where the bottom plastic cover snaps into the main part of the fusebox. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the lower plastic cover off, and slide it down the wire loom to get it out of the way. 11. Now, look at the wires that are underneath the bottom cover that you just removed. You will see a bunch of wires and a couple of different plugs. The plug for the ELD is roughly in the center of the box, and has three wires coming out of it- A Yellowwith Silver Hatches, A Solid Black, and An Orange with Silver Hatches.

The wires function as follows: Yellow Wire W/Silver Hatches &ndash; 12V power feed (From Ignition)<br /> Black Wire W/ Silver Hatches &ndash; Ground<br /> Orange Wire W Silver Hatches &ndash; 5V sensory feed (OuttoECM) 12. You now have a couple options: Option A - You can simply unhook the plug for the ELD from the fusebox, push it up out of the way, and re-install the cover. This will bypass the ELD completely and cause the alternatorto operate the way it did in most older domestic vehicles. Option B - You can cut, extend, and wire a switch into the sensory feed wire (the Orange Wire W/Silver Hatches), so thatwhen the switch is closed, the ELDfunctions the way Honda designed it to, and when the switch is open, the ELD is bypassed. Option C - You can do the same process as Option B (cut & extend the wire), except instead of a switch, you can use a relay wiredinto the head unit's remote circuit toturn the ELDon/off automatically whenever you turn the radio on/off. 13. Once you have performed one of the above options, you are ready to put it all back together. Re-asassembly: 14. Slide the lower plastic fusebox cover back over the wire loom, and snap it back into place on main plastic body of the fuse box (covering the bottom wiring). 15. Snap the main body of the fusebox back into place on the vehicle. 16. Locate the plastic clip that snapped intothe "framerail" on the main wire loom, and snap it back into the hole thatitcame outof. 17. Replace the top cover of the fusebox. 18. Slide and snap the plactic cover for the ECM back into place. 19. Re-install you airbox and filter (Again, I'm sure there is a DIY on airbox removal on here somewhere). 20. Close the hood. 21. Enjoy your improved voltage.

---------- Post added at 03:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

**** that's big sorry lol

I don't know if you just typed that all out or copied and pasted, either way, thank you. Really appriciate the info and will put it to use tonight when i get home.

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 07:54 PM
Does anyone know if I can run a power wire from the alternator directly to the battery prior to disabling the ELD system? I do not want to cook anything on the stock electrical. The stock alternator wire runs into the fuse box, don’t know where it goes once it enters the fuse box, might be just to a fuse or could be running into something tying into the ELD system. If anyone can offer some insight here I would appreciate it.

8thGenSI
09-02-2012, 11:55 PM
This might be a little over detailed for such a small portion of the build log but if anyone does this to the same vehicle it might be useful.

Went to finish up the power portion of the big 3 and ran into some issues. Basically, the positive terminal post on the stock alternator is in the most awkward spot, I finally got the lug and stock wire on the post and find out the hard way that it is too short to get the nut threaded. I couldn't pull the alternator because it has to be removed from the bottom of the car and my brother in law barrowed my floor jack, jack stands, and creeper.

Take a look... This is the stud with nothing on it at all, tiny isnt it? Its almost as if Honda knew I was going to do this and tried to prevent it from happening.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/alternatorNOcoupler2.jpg

I tried trimming up the lug terminal a bit in hopes that I could get it to nestle in there a bit more (top is after modification, bottom is before).
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/lugTRIMMED.jpg

Modified lug soldered on wire and ready to attempt the mount.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/lugONwire.jpg

No luckÖ could not get threads to bite with stock wire and the wire I was adding. After a bunch of 4 letter words I came up with an idea, I would use a coupler nut and bolt to extend the stud.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/couplerNUT.jpg

So I figured I would use the coupler nut to secure the stock wire then bolt my lug to the end of the coupler nut. Here is what it looks like with the coupler nut installed.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/alternatorWITHcoupler.jpg

I was worried about accidental arching because I will be extending the post so I got some of this.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/TOOLdip.jpg

I taped off one end of the couple nut, then threaded a bolt into the other side to prevent the plastic dip from getting in the threads and preventing a solid connection. The bolt that was dipped will be the one used in the final install.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/couplerTOOLdipped.jpg

Dipped the copper lug as well.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/lugTOOLdipped.jpg

Now just waiting for the plastic dip to dry, when that is done I will trim the plastic dip off of the areas I want to make connection and install everything using mini channel locks with tape around the jaws to prevent damage to the plastic dip. More pictures coming soon.

8thGenSI
09-09-2012, 12:46 AM
ditching the ed nine.5 already, just picked up a nice saz1500d from robertoyoung08. Any suggestions on a 4 channel? I would like to avoid a huge footprint but would like some nice sq.

mylows10
09-09-2012, 01:03 AM
call me mike we can work out a deal for the d9 and a new 4 channel

8thGenSI
09-19-2012, 01:08 AM
Finished big 3 a little while ago, upgraded to an optima yellow top under the hood. I will spare all of the details and just show the final result for the big 3. In a nut shell... All stinger HPM 0 gauge wrapped in tech flex, fused with mini ANL fuses due to space limitations. I used a piece of flat bar to mount the fuse blocks, I have a billet battery tie down on the way to dress it up a bit. I hate the route of the stock wiring, no slack to change it. Honda must have saved a few cents on routing the wire this way.

Let me know what you think.

Sorry about the bad photos, lighting was tough.

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/big3-3_zps64f08e03.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/big3-2_zps05511959.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/build%20log/big3-1_zps129211a2.jpg

crucial24
09-19-2012, 05:10 PM
Tuned in....goood info on the ELD had the same issue with a 98 Accord......

8thGenSI
09-19-2012, 09:09 PM
Tuned in....goood info on the ELD had the same issue with a 98 Accord......

The ELD is what I am going to tackle next, I will post pics and as much info as I can.

crucial24
09-20-2012, 11:16 AM
I was reading some stuff online some guys just removed it and had no issues...

8thGenSI
09-20-2012, 01:43 PM
Problem is... Everything I have seen on disabling eld has been in older vehicles, I know my ECM is smarter then some of the vehicles I have read about but I have no idea how the eld will effect this particular vehicle. I would like the ability to enable the eld when not drawing lots of current because the alternator can present a large load to the engine and effect gas milage.

crucial24
09-20-2012, 05:33 PM
Yeah that is true you have a point as your car is a 2011....I don't know anyone with this particular issue as most ppl having been installing in older Honda vehicles....Guess doing the relay setup would be the way to go for now.....

jdmferio13
09-30-2012, 08:24 PM
better pics of big 3 for alt extender and which fuse holder is for alt

8thGenSI
03-31-2013, 04:00 AM
Ok, so I kind of let this build log die off I guess. I finished my install today, I was in a bit of a hurry to get it done so I didnt take many pictures. I will take some pictures tomorro and post them up but I will show the pics I took a while ago. Went a new route on some of the stuff, here is what the final result was.

Head unit: Alpine INE-S920HD
front stage: Kicker SS 6.5" comps
Rear fill: kicker 5.25" (crappy ones)
Mid/High amp: Audison SR4
Sub: 2013 Alpine Type R
Sub Amp: Audison SR1D
Optima yellow top under the hood.

Here is the amp rack I built, fits behind the rear seat.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/amprack_zps7ae2ccb0.jpg

Here is the head unit after install (just bought it this morning)
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/mbote131/indash_zps00487360.jpg

More to come soon, will be deadening doors this week.

RoYALbLUE08
03-31-2013, 07:08 AM
what happened to the DC sub u bought? lol... btw great choice on the latest gen of alpine type R subs. they are so under rated its not even funny, I have two of the type r's in 10 inch and couldn't be happier, great sound clarity and gets loud!

8thGenSI
03-31-2013, 10:21 AM
what happened to the DC sub u bought? lol... btw great choice on the latest gen of alpine type R subs. they are so under rated its not even funny, I have two of the type r's in 10 inch and couldn't be happier, great sound clarity and gets loud!

I didn’t want to make the electrical upgrades that it was going to take to power that DC to its full potential. The electrical in a Civic is weak, I plan on getting a project vehicle soon so I will slap some big subs in that.

I like the type R so far, I was impressed with how loud it got on only 460 watts.

RoYALbLUE08
04-01-2013, 04:23 PM
I didn’t want to make the electrical upgrades that it was going to take to power that DC to its full potential. The electrical in a Civic is weak, I plan on getting a project vehicle soon so I will slap some big subs in that.

I like the type R so far, I was impressed with how loud it got on only 460 watts.
yeah ive had the newest 2012 type r subs for a year now and everyone always tells me how much they love my subs because it sounds really good, clear, and loud as hell. for 130 a piece from online u cant beat it and not to mention i think its one of the best looking subwoofers out there

8thGenSI
04-01-2013, 11:11 PM
yeah ive had the newest 2012 type r subs for a year now and everyone always tells me how much they love my subs because it sounds really good, clear, and loud as hell. for 130 a piece from online u cant beat it and not to mention i think its one of the best looking subwoofers out there

It does look pretty nice, but I happened to cover it up with a grill. I had a brand new w6v2 in my car at one point, wife took my car shopping and toss a bunch of stuff in the trunk and ended up putting a nice big hole in my sub so I figured I would try and prevent that this time.

keep_hope_alive
04-02-2013, 01:23 AM
FYI, i came up with an ELD bypass that doesn't provide an open circuit for the PCM 5V wire
Honda Electrical Load Detection (ELD) Bypass - Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums (http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/audio-visual-electronics-10/honda-electrical-load-detection-eld-bypass-32726/)

basically I replicate the voltage drop that the PCM expects to see when the ELD is loaded by using a resistor. I allow for stock operation by including a relay and a switch (fuel economy is the reason for the ELD).

i'd like to see more pics of the amp rack build.