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View Full Version : New box build, Bracing? Double layering? Resin?



USAFMileHigh
08-08-2012, 12:37 AM
Ok guys so I am getting another SA-12, which means a new box (as I have 1 at the moment). It will be roughly 4ft3 and tuned to 34hz slot ported. Now, would coating the interior with fiberglass resin help improve box rigidity? What about bracing, and how would I go about doing that? Would double layering the baffle and the back of the box (where I have a bit more room) help?

Jaguar
08-08-2012, 01:05 AM
Ok guys so I am getting another SA-12, which means a new box (as I have 1 at the moment). It will be roughly 4ft3 and tuned to 34hz slot ported. Now, would coating the interior with fiberglass resin help improve box rigidity? What about bracing, and how would I go about doing that? Would double layering the baffle and the back of the box (where I have a bit more room) help?
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/550629-fiberglassing-inside-box.html

DonH
08-08-2012, 01:08 AM
you wont need to with sa-12's man. built it right off of a nice design. done deal

USAFMileHigh
08-08-2012, 02:23 AM
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/550629-fiberglassing-inside-box.html
Haha ok I get it no resin :P. Will 45's in the corners be enough bracing or do I need dowel rods? If so where do I put em O.o

keep_hope_alive
08-08-2012, 02:37 AM
what glassing inside the box does is help keep tuning true. MDF is porus. resin alone isn't going to increase strength, just seal it. fiberglass mat + resin on the seams will increase strength.

typically, good wood glue/clamping + internal bracing on any surface longer than 12" or so is sufficient. 3/4" dowel rods or 1"x1" is fine. even ripping some strips of MDF. how much bracing really depends on the design of the box.

i do a double-layer front baffle, and i sometimes recess the driver by making the outer layer opening larger.

i also use t-nuts to mount the driver. i don't use any wood screws anywhere.

Jaguar
08-08-2012, 03:03 AM
Haha ok I get it no resin :P. Will 45's in the corners be enough bracing or do I need dowel rods? If so where do I put em O.o

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/499299-bracing.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/524952-i-need-quick-box-bracing-101-a.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/546885-bracing-45-corners-really-worth-money.html

As far as sealing goes, whoever is making your box (if indeed you are having one custom made), double check the sealant to make sure it has not been skimped on.
Wood glue is the way to go, but some pre-fabs straight up use caulk. Pre-fabs are mass produced/assembled and do not even use enough of the wrong materials.
I re-enforced the inside of my enclosure with wood glue across the seams. If you ever do this have some light grit sandpaper ready to remove any ''leftover" build
up upon application. Also read post #15 here. (http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/479761-rhino-lined-boxes.html#post7153437)

USAFMileHigh
08-10-2012, 04:46 AM
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/499299-bracing.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/524952-i-need-quick-box-bracing-101-a.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/546885-bracing-45-corners-really-worth-money.html

As far as sealing goes, whoever is making your box (if indeed you are having one custom made), double check the sealant to make sure it has not been skimped on.
Wood glue is the way to go, but some pre-fabs straight up use caulk. Pre-fabs are mass produced/assembled and do not even use enough of the wrong materials.
I re-enforced the inside of my enclosure with wood glue across the seams. If you ever do this have some light grit sandpaper ready to remove any ''leftover" build
up upon application. Also read post #15 here. (http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/479761-rhino-lined-boxes.html#post7153437)


So, on my last box I built (myself, not too long ago for the single 12), I believe I used Loctite, then predrilled holes and used wood screws to tighten it down further. Are you saying avoid the Loctite and go with plain wood glue? I also used a shitton on my 45's to keep them in place, as well as went over the seams inside and out with another layer for sealing purposes.

Jaguar
08-10-2012, 09:53 AM
So, on my last box I built (myself, not too long ago for the single 12), I believe I used Loctite, then predrilled holes and used wood screws to tighten it down further. Are you saying avoid the Loctite and go with plain wood glue?
There are at least 10 different types of Loctite, each designed for application on various surfaces, I have no idea which type you used, but use wood glue.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/531242-best-glue-caulking-use-sub-box.html

disturbed471985
08-10-2012, 09:55 AM
Titebond and screws and dowels will just bout do it all... Clamps help..

pro-rabbit
08-10-2012, 10:39 AM
Normal setups are double layered mounting baffles(with or with our flush mounting the subs), a couple 45s, and maybe some recessed dowel bracing when/where needed.

Basic tightbond or other wood glues are just fine and screws work great as well. Just make sure you are pre-drilling.