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View Full Version : Can I turn my sealed into a ported?



pelekeliko
08-07-2012, 06:25 PM
This might be a really retarded question to many of you but maybe, it can be done? Im terrible at figuring out enclosure volume and aero port size that I need.

I currently have 2 12" Type R's in an enclosed box underneath the back seat in my silverado. I am pretty sure I dont have the right amount of Volume to drill Aero Ports on each side of the box, but I just thought I'd ask.


This is the current box in my truck.
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/fredcastillo/photo.jpg

This is my box measurements. Would it be possible to drill aero ports on each side of my box to make it ported like in the drawing? My box does have a divider right in the middle.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/fredcastillo/box.gif

thanks in advance for any advice and your time.

audiobaun
08-07-2012, 06:28 PM
Are the subs sharing the same space?

pelekeliko
08-07-2012, 06:29 PM
Are the subs sharing the same space?

Nah bro the box is divided down the middle.

mylows10
08-07-2012, 06:30 PM
i'd put the ports next to each sub,firing forward

TreyE
08-07-2012, 06:30 PM
Just drill like 50 1" holes in the side, that will put you roughly around 34.7625193hz

You're welcome.

pelekeliko
08-07-2012, 06:34 PM
i'd put the ports next to each sub,firing forward

do i have the right volume? and i have no idea what size ports id need to put in there.

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 06:35 PM
I just calculated the volume (roughly) and I got about 1.7 per chamber.. For a pair of type R's, you might be able to get away with a 3" aero per side at roughly 9" per side for roughly 32hz tuning.. This is the only thing you can do if you want to keep that divider.

mylows10
08-07-2012, 06:36 PM
i estimated at 1.80 external so prolly 1.25 internal after displacement ,so yes or pretty close

pelekeliko
08-07-2012, 06:37 PM
I just calculated the volume (roughly) and I got about 1.7 per chamber.. For a pair of type R's, you might be able to get away with a 3" aero per side at roughly 9" per side for roughly 32hz tuning.. This is the only thing you can do if you want to keep that divider.


Really appreciate it bro. So im looking at a 3" aero port at 9" long, on each side?

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 06:40 PM
Really appreciate it bro. So im looking at a 3" aero port at 9" long, on each side?

With my quick, rough calculation, that is what I came up with. Others might agree or disagree but it should be pretty close.

audiobaun
08-07-2012, 06:47 PM
I was thinking 2.50,but ? Port those subs, and get them to sound better..I think you will be fine to do..shared chamber would have been a bit trick/or not able to as well with that center hump

pelekeliko
08-07-2012, 06:51 PM
Thanks for all the feedback, ridiculously fast. Would you guys recommend these?

Precision Port 3" Flared Port Tube Kit 268-350 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-350)

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 06:51 PM
I was thinking 2.50,but ? Port those subs, and get them to sound better..I think you will be fine to do..shared chamber would have been a bit trick/or not able to as well with that center hump

On the port diameter or box volume? 2.5 might be close for a shared chamber but they are divided. I calculated these volumes using a .75" thick wall as well. I believe it is pretty close. about 1.7 per chamber before sub displacement.

mylows10
08-07-2012, 06:52 PM
yes

Julian
08-07-2012, 06:53 PM
i would do ext ports

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 06:53 PM
Thanks for all the feedback, ridiculously fast. Would you guys recommend these?

Precision Port 3" Flared Port Tube Kit 268-350 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-350)

I use PVC to be honest, but flared ports are better. The flare helps with keeping the air flow smooth instead of turbulent. Problem is that the flares might not fit inside of your box. The flare will work for the port exit at the wall of the enclosure but might be too big for the inside. Maybe you can use the flare only on the outside and keep it straight on the inside.

mylows10
08-07-2012, 06:57 PM
I use PVC to be honest, but flared ports are better. The flare helps with keeping the air flow smooth instead of turbulent. Problem is that the flares might not fit inside of your box. The flare will work for the port exit at the wall of the enclosure but might be too big for the inside. Maybe you can use the flare only on the outside and keep it straight on the inside.
^^^^this

pelekeliko
08-07-2012, 07:01 PM
I use PVC to be honest, but flared ports are better. The flare helps with keeping the air flow smooth instead of turbulent. Problem is that the flares might not fit inside of your box. The flare will work for the port exit at the wall of the enclosure but might be too big for the inside. Maybe you can use the flare only on the outside and keep it straight on the inside.

Ya i didnt even think about that, I doubt the flare will fit on the inside of the box without hitting the back of the box. How do you suggest I attach the PVC to the box? Sorry im just a super nube when it comes to aero ports.

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 07:10 PM
All you do is cut the hole big enough for the curve to fit in and then screw the face of the port into the outside wall..

http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/resources/in-use-detail-tech-drawing-40148.jpg

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 07:11 PM
and since you're not using the internal flare, it should just slide all the way in until the outside flare hits the wall. then throw some silicone sealer under the flare against the face of the box and screw it down.

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 07:15 PM
Also, your message inbox is full so I couldn't reply to your pm but are you deciding to go with PVC or flared aero port? My replies have been focused on flared port mounting.

Bettr n' Revrse
08-07-2012, 07:16 PM
Seems a little small to me for a type R but it should be alright with a little higher tuning...

pelekeliko
08-07-2012, 07:18 PM
I was just going to go with PVC pipe since I can just grab some from my old job.

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 07:20 PM
Seems a little small to me for a type R but it should be alright with a little higher tuning...

I figure a 3" aero 9" long should put him at roughly 34-35ish after displacements are subtracted, which I believe is sufficient. Not a whole lot you can do when you're turning a prefab sealed box into a ported one.

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 07:24 PM
I was just going to go with PVC pipe since I can just grab some from my old job.

If mounting PVC, it depends on how good you are with power tools I guess. I have a nack for cutting almost perfect holes with a jigsaw so I just outlined the PVC outer diameter on the enclosure face with pencil and cut the hole just on the inside of that sketch to where the port was snug in the hole, then just slid it in until it was flush with the outer surface and ran some silicone around it for safe measure. If you have a hole saw that is the exact diameter as the port, you can just use that.

goingdef
08-07-2012, 07:26 PM
this reminds me of the old qlogic boxes they where sealed but if you looked inside they had a 3" plastic plug you could remove and add a port too, not a bad idea as they where made right on the edge of being to big for sealed and too small for ported allowing them to be used as both.

Bettr n' Revrse
08-07-2012, 07:31 PM
I figure a 3" aero 9" long should put him at roughly 34-35ish after displacements are subtracted, which I believe is sufficient. Not a whole lot you can do when you're turning a prefab sealed box into a ported one.

Should be alright...

pelekeliko
08-07-2012, 07:39 PM
Dope! Well thanks again for all the help! Looks like I won't be so bored on my day off tomorrow. Lol

skylineTT
08-07-2012, 07:46 PM
yeah, take a few pics and let us know how it turns out.

RSDXzec
08-07-2012, 10:41 PM
im keen to see how this turns out so im subscribed, if it were me i would've done external ports so I could keep as much internal volume as possible but it seems you've got a pretty good idea worked out

goingdef
08-07-2012, 10:45 PM
well with all the boxes I have ever seen when output was lacking even a half assed port job will be louder then the previously sealed enclosure.

mazdakid
08-07-2012, 10:48 PM
Small box and tiny port if you go with 3" round. I wouldnt waste my time or money on those ports.

pelekeliko
08-08-2012, 08:55 PM
So picked up everything I needed today from my old job and it took me about an hour and a half to finish. Hooked it back up in my truck and just from turning up just a bit I can already tell a huge difference. Just want to wait at least over night before I turn it up to let the sealant to dry. Ill try to get a video together this week.

Thanks again for all the help.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/fredcastillo/photo-17.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/fredcastillo/photo-18.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/fredcastillo/photo-19.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/fredcastillo/photo-20.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/fredcastillo/photo-22.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/fredcastillo/photo-23.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/fredcastillo/photo-21.jpg

quackhead
08-08-2012, 10:01 PM
It looks like you should have ported the bottom corner facing forward..that big bracket looks like it is blocking half of the port diameter too close to the port. The ports should not have any obstruction within 3" of them (3" port = 3" clearance) This may be old school theory, but it is a rule of thumb I have always followed. Perhaps others here can offer advice.

CHEMMINS
08-08-2012, 10:22 PM
Yup port loading walls should be distanced a minimum of whatever port size is away from mouth of port.

skylineTT
08-08-2012, 10:36 PM
da truf. looks like the passenger side is perfectly clear but that one is pusing air into a bracket. might not be too bad afterall though. just crank it a little tomorrow and let us know how it goes. my single cab box is loading into the lowest and deepest corner of the passenger side but it slams.

skylineTT
08-08-2012, 10:37 PM
da truf. looks like the passenger side is perfectly clear but that one is pusing air into a bracket. might not be too bad afterall though. just crank it a little tomorrow and let us know how it goes. my single cab box is loading into the lowest and deepest corner of the passenger side but it slams.

pelekeliko
08-08-2012, 10:51 PM
Ya I was concerned about how close that port was to the bracket, but i guess there isnt much i can do about it now. lol But ill let you guys know how it sounds tomorrow.

pro-rabbit
08-09-2012, 11:27 AM
Nice image in the first post..think I remember that design lol

Anyway, yea when you have a lifted seat I don't suggest porting out the side really. However, I would bet it won't harm to much in your case.


How it the output now compared to before?

skylineTT
08-09-2012, 01:39 PM
pelekeliko;

Need Update!!

pelekeliko
08-09-2012, 05:26 PM
pelekeliko;

Need Update!!

Definitely a huge difference. I am pretty pleased with the difference it has made. Seems its hitting the lows a lot better now. Not just loud obnoxious bass, finally feel the deep tones.

Thanks again skyline for the help, and everyone else. Ill try to get a video up soon.

pelekeliko
08-09-2012, 05:28 PM
Nice image in the first post..think I remember that design lol

Anyway, yea when you have a lifted seat I don't suggest porting out the side really. However, I would bet it won't harm to much in your case.


How it the output now compared to before?

Haha you designed it right? Sorry man wasnt trying to steal anything, just noticed it was super identical to my box minus the ports.

kushy_dreams
08-09-2012, 05:29 PM
Try to file off the hard edges on the inside lip of the pvc pipe, it will give you port noise especially with small ports like that

pelekeliko
08-09-2012, 05:35 PM
not getting any port noise, at least non that i have noticed yet, but definitely will smooth out the pipe if i get some problems.

skylineTT
08-09-2012, 06:32 PM
Glad it worked out pretty well man. I figured it would do pretty well given my quick volume and tuning calcs. i'll be waiting for that vid.