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View Full Version : easiest way to seal off a trunk wall



CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 06:56 PM
what would you do? im considering peel n seal with some cardboard its only temp.

TaylorFade
mazdakid
loudmofo
mylows10
pro-rabbit

splwj47
06-04-2012, 07:00 PM
jizz

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 07:00 PM
jizz

i cant make enough

bgowdy31
06-04-2012, 07:01 PM
im curious my self seeing i need to seal my hatch off.....

splwj47
06-04-2012, 07:03 PM
i cant make enough

you havent tried hard enough then.

mazdakid
06-04-2012, 07:04 PM
Have you tried box at the back of the trunk facing forward yet? Not sealed off.

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 07:05 PM
Have you tried box at the back of the trunk facing forward yet? Not sealed off.

no use i cant go that far back because of the amp and im not mounting it on the box

bhsdriller
06-04-2012, 07:09 PM
you can use the thin masonite...glue or screw some 3/4" mdf around the edges of the box set back off the edge however thick the masonite is. That gives you something to screw it to. It's think so easy to cut with a jigsaw. Use cardboard for a template then transfer it over

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 07:37 PM
anyoneelse b4 i run to lowes

rebelfromva
06-04-2012, 07:37 PM
I'm about to do this in my bolt. We are building a template if you will, around the box. Will show ya when I come to get that sub!

VisceralSound
06-04-2012, 07:38 PM
Great Stuff foam works wonders
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120423_005912.jpg

rebelfromva
06-04-2012, 07:38 PM
**** your about to do it now...

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 07:43 PM
I'm about to do this in my bolt. We are building a template if you will, around the box. Will show ya when I come to get that sub!when you order that other guy you sent to me know so i can get all 3 at once.


Great Stuff foam works wonders
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120423_005912.jpgi like it done where i can not ruin my carpet


**** your about to do it now...

not really but i need ideas tossed around. i need 3 peeps to help change my box around front firing .

VisceralSound
06-04-2012, 07:45 PM
Next easiest thing I would assume is mount wood in areas and caulk around the areas.

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 07:46 PM
Next easiest thing I would assume is mount wood in areas and caulk around the areas.

wait i just realized something...you sealed off a box that has sub up.....you're a retard.

bhsdriller
06-04-2012, 07:48 PM
if you want to use foam...just lay down a lot of masking tape, or you can tape down some plastic over the carpet. Then spray the foam over that so it doesn't stick to the carpet and ruin it

VisceralSound
06-04-2012, 07:49 PM
wait i just realized something...you sealed off a box that has sub up.....you're a retard.

lol no
Moble Enclosurs

pro-rabbit
06-04-2012, 07:50 PM
I normally use wooden panels to flush everything out the best I can and then maybe use bondo to get what ever contour I could not when I made the panel. I very rearly ever use that foam crap.

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 07:51 PM
lol no
Moble Enclosurs

i saw your build its sub up port side....

pro-rabbit
06-04-2012, 07:51 PM
lol no
Moble Enclosurs

It is not a very smart thing to do actually. You would have much better results with a different setup.

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 07:53 PM
I normally use wooden panels to flush everything out the best I can and then maybe use bondo to get what ever contour I could not when I made the panel. I very rearly ever use that foam crap.

easiest....lol

VisceralSound
06-04-2012, 07:54 PM
It's essentially a what Jason calls a "bass reflex" box kind of like a 4th order from the trunk I fail at explaining it like he does, hopefully he chimes in soon.

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 07:55 PM
It's essentially a what Jason calls a "bass reflex" box kind of like a 4th order from the trunk I fail at explaining it like he does, hopefully he chimes in soon.
4th order has no ported rear wave

pro-rabbit
06-04-2012, 08:01 PM
It's essentially a what Jason calls a "bass reflex" box kind of like a 4th order from the trunk I fail at explaining it like he does, hopefully he chimes in soon.

I'm sure it works "ok" at best, but in the end you would do much better with a different type of setup all together. I seen your build and what everyone has said. I stand by, a different setup would do 10+db and sound better then your current setup.

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 08:06 PM
I'm sure it works "ok" at best, but in the end you would do much better with a different type of setup all together. I seen your build and what everyone has said. I stand by, a different setup would do 10+db and sound better then your current setup.

different hell just a new box. M:E does great but i think he didnt do as well on ths one. just my .2

pro-rabbit
06-04-2012, 08:07 PM
different hell just a new box. M:E does great but i think he didnt do as well on ths one. just my .2

I think he said it was a misunderstanding of what was needed and what was going to be used.

CAT MAN
06-04-2012, 08:08 PM
I think he said it was a misunderstanding of what was needed and what was going to be used.

oh ic

Moble Enclosurs
06-04-2012, 10:38 PM
oh ic

Yea, this one was not meant to actually pull of dBs from focus. The idea was an SQL design in the beginning. The request was quoted as this: "As many that would make a 27-30hz tune(aero) "I'd like 1 or 2 aero's depending what fulfills the concept" "1. and I want it to fire into the cabin but not 100% sealed".
This was fulfilled based on the request. Recommendations were made on this manner and the conclusion was to have the ports fire into the cabin. The sub in the trunk was to add to output from the beginning, THEN the design was sealed off and I recalculated it to work still with the sub sealed into the trunk as a 6th order through the rear deck may give it an out of phase band greater than +/-90 degrees off axis. Then there was the power concern where I was even surprised of how much power was planning to go to the design, where I had allocated 600 watts based on efficiency of the compression chamber ALONG WITH more importantly the RMS limitations of the driver, and it was also mentioned this for the design goal "SQLwithslight SPL for flex(not burps" as a request.

So, no the design was done correctly. Things changed thereafter and I was by him every step of the way to ensure it was not a total loss from the changes that were made. The final idea was to have it react like a 4th order in the end to maintain output authority in the low low end and not be out of phase. I assure you it was not a mistake on the design part. :D I hope that is finally cleared up y everyone who does not know the truth of this design that was questioned time after time, and then proven to work well after the modifications thereafter. No mistake, I assure you, was made on my part of this process.


Now regarding the OPs question, as much wood as possible to conform to the area that needs to be sealed off is the best way to keep cancellation from occurring. Then any material used to seal it from there should be used minority in respect to the area that is of concern. This will give the best rigid structure to any wall.

TaylorFade
06-04-2012, 10:52 PM
Do you have to run sealed? You don't need to seal it off if you can run with your trunnk open.

bgowdy31
06-04-2012, 11:01 PM
Do you have to run sealed? You don't need to seal it off if you can run with your trunnk open.

^^^^this

i had a 99 galant(avatar pic), 2 15s with aeros firing into cab with out trunk sealed off. the car was funny. i could gain 2 dbs just by opening my trunk, and would gain another 1.6 by opening all doors....? i know to me it seemed wrong but it worked. it worked some how as a vacum, if you stood in the door way you could feel air being pull from out side....

keep_hope_alive
06-06-2012, 02:05 AM
the gain you get by opening the trunk is easily explained. you eliminate destructive interference. the wave hits that trunk and bounces back some time later, out of phase with the front wave. that is cancellation. it's also lost energy and pressure. if you gain dB's opening doors, you're not loud enough. at that point, you just minimize interference and create a bandpass enclosure made from the cab. this is a super simplified version of what is actually happening. physics explains everything.

you want to reach the point where you are pressurizing the cabin and any leak is lost pressure. i have no idea what that turning point is, but i assume it's unique to each vehicle and probably a function of volume.

most of us are just battling phase interference. your goal should be a fully coherent wave combination with constructive interference at the mic location.

CAT MAN was looking at my build wondering if he also wanted to make a rectangular frame that fully reinforced the trunk and gave him a universal platform to bolt boxes to. oddly enough, i made it removable so i could experiment with subs and boxes. turns out i was happy off the bat. but new subs will come soon enough, and as long as the box fits the frame, it will seal perfectly.

CAT MAN
06-06-2012, 11:04 AM
the gain you get by opening the trunk is easily explained. you eliminate destructive interference. the wave hits that trunk and bounces back some time later, out of phase with the front wave. that is cancellation. it's also lost energy and pressure. if you gain dB's opening doors, you're not loud enough. at that point, you just minimize interference and create a bandpass enclosure made from the cab. this is a super simplified version of what is actually happening. physics explains everything.

you want to reach the point where you are pressurizing the cabin and any leak is lost pressure. i have no idea what that turning point is, but i assume it's unique to each vehicle and probably a function of volume.

most of us are just battling phase interference. your goal should be a fully coherent wave combination with constructive interference at the mic location.

CAT MAN was looking at my build wondering if he also wanted to make a rectangular frame that fully reinforced the trunk and gave him a universal platform to bolt boxes to. oddly enough, i made it removable so i could experiment with subs and boxes. turns out i was happy off the bat. but new subs will come soon enough, and as long as the box fits the frame, it will seal perfectly.

idk what we would do without guys like you

xSPLoder
06-06-2012, 11:27 AM
every person I see in trunk class uses gorilla tape and cut mdf to frame around the box. just throwing it out there. they also already make pre made foam boards at home depot and lowes you can look at too

kushy_dreams
06-06-2012, 01:35 PM
my .02 on this- make a u shaped frame that will be placed upside and goes around the box to cover the gaps on the sides and top. Make a template out of cardboard first to test fit. Then when you are ready, transfer it to your wood of choice. To seal it use screws and silicone caulk where possible. 3m 5200 is great stuff. Then apply some of this stuff all around the seams: 324A 2-1/2 in. x 180 ft. Cold Weather Foil Tape-3240024500 at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/Nashua-Tape/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xo/R-100048600/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051)

madcad95
06-06-2012, 01:39 PM
I pulled the carpet out the trunk and threw it in the garage and broke out the expanding foam then resined over it and painted it and wala and if I feel like going back to stock someday then that's when the work will start tearing it out and putting the carpet back :)

CAT MAN
06-06-2012, 02:17 PM
every person I see in trunk class uses gorilla tape and cut mdf to frame around the box. just throwing it out there. they also already make pre made foam boards at home depot and lowes you can look at too
yeah i was going to do peel and seal instead of tape. not for deadining purposes but because the seal we have in my lowes is sticky as *****

my .02 on this- make a u shaped frame that will be placed upside and goes around the box to cover the gaps on the sides and top. Make a template out of cardboard first to test fit. Then when you are ready, transfer it to your wood of choice. To seal it use screws and silicone caulk where possible. 3m 5200 is great stuff. Then apply some of this stuff all around the seams: 324A 2-1/2 in. x 180 ft. Cold Weather Foil Tape-3240024500 at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/Nashua-Tape/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xo/R-100048600/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051)
love that tape

I pulled the carpet out the trunk and threw it in the garage and broke out the expanding foam then resined over it and painted it and wala and if I feel like going back to stock someday then that's when the work will start tearing it out and putting the carpet back :)
**** you poor people and your spray foam

xSPLoder
06-06-2012, 02:29 PM
**** you poor people and your spray foam

rofl

keep_hope_alive
06-06-2012, 05:20 PM
in the amount of time you've spent on the forum talking about how to do it, you could have made a nice, thick wood frame perfectly cut and sealed around the box. that's the only solution i would entertain. if your goal is deebee's then you want something rigid. a 28 foot wavelength (40Hz) isn't stopped by cardboard. flex is lost dB's

just sayin... "easy" is relative.

:)

bgowdy31
06-06-2012, 05:30 PM
the gain you get by opening the trunk is easily explained. you eliminate destructive interference. the wave hits that trunk and bounces back some time later, out of phase with the front wave. that is cancellation. it's also lost energy and pressure. if you gain dB's opening doors, you're not loud enough. at that point, you just minimize interference and create a bandpass enclosure made from the cab. this is a super simplified version of what is actually happening. physics explains everything.

you want to reach the point where you are pressurizing the cabin and any leak is lost pressure. i have no idea what that turning point is, but i assume it's unique to each vehicle and probably a function of volume.

most of us are just battling phase interference. your goal should be a fully coherent wave combination with constructive interference at the mic location.

CAT MAN was looking at my build wondering if he also wanted to make a rectangular frame that fully reinforced the trunk and gave him a universal platform to bolt boxes to. oddly enough, i made it removable so i could experiment with subs and boxes. turns out i was happy off the bat. but new subs will come soon enough, and as long as the box fits the frame, it will seal perfectly.

lol that set upi had wasnt that loud... its was about a 144 @ best lol

keep_hope_alive
06-06-2012, 05:38 PM
lol that set upi had wasnt that loud... its was about a 144 @ best lol

that's the nice thing about the class structure within competition. most of us will be in the phase interference range. placement and orientation are the most important aspects of the system. naturally, flex and other losses take their toll too. the vehicle will end up the limiting factor.

IMO - newer cars are too flimsy for SPL. if you want an SPL vehicle, look for something like a 1940's armored truck
http://hankstruckpictures.com/pix/trucks/ih/loomis_ih.jpg

RangerDangerV2
06-06-2012, 05:42 PM
if you put down n duct tape and then spray foam over the duct tape no carpet will be ruined.

keep_hope_alive
06-06-2012, 05:47 PM
Armored Truck Inventory (http://www.cbsarmoredtrucks.com/our-inventory/)

i've always said that if i ever get into SPL, the vehicle will either be from the 1940's (when steel was hammer-proof) or a vehicle built for strength.

like this:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2925230/1992-gmc-topkick

i agree you can tape the entire interior off and use spray foam and probably not ruin anything. but why limit yourself? just make it out of wood and call it a day. make cardboard templates then in a few minutes with a jig saw you're set.

bgowdy31
06-06-2012, 05:50 PM
that's the nice thing about the class structure within competition. most of us will be in the phase interference range. placement and orientation are the most important aspects of the system. naturally, flex and other losses take their toll too. the vehicle will end up the limiting factor.

IMO - newer cars are too flimsy for SPL. if you want an SPL vehicle, look for something like a 1940's armored truck
http://hankstruckpictures.com/pix/trucks/ih/loomis_ih.jpg

yea... i like my blazer tho, i really dont get much flex from it with the 52hz freq i been competing with. with this box being tuned to 32 - 35hz i get flex in my roof now lol. but my box right now sits all the way back at this point. im going to be moving it forward about 1 1/2 to 2 feet when im ready to build the wall around it the should take care of some flex. the roof only flexs over top of were the hatch area is.

RangerDangerV2
06-06-2012, 05:52 PM
Armored Truck Inventory (http://www.cbsarmoredtrucks.com/our-inventory/)

i've always said that if i ever get into SPL, the vehicle will either be from the 1940's (when steel was hammer-proof) or a vehicle built for strength.

like this:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2925230/1992-gmc-topkick

i agree you can tape the entire interior off and use spray foam and probably not ruin anything. but why limit yourself? just make it out of wood and call it a day. make cardboard templates then in a few minutes with a jig saw you're set.

passenger vans with concrete errwhere are the standard for teh burpz.

CAT MAN
06-06-2012, 07:40 PM
in the amount of time you've spent on the forum talking about how to do it, you could have made a nice, thick wood frame perfectly cut and sealed around the box. that's the only solution i would entertain. if your goal is deebee's then you want something rigid. a 28 foot wavelength (40Hz) isn't stopped by cardboard. flex is lost dB's

just sayin... "easy" is relative.

:)
yeah i realize this but you guys also missed something yesterday. moms car blew up so im stuck taking her to work. ill get on it once we drop a new motor in that tempo. **** car is getting on my nerves. it ran for a whole week after i fixed it LOL

Vossy
06-06-2012, 07:59 PM
What I did was I lined the part I was sealing covered in tape, made an MDF baffle around the outside for a base seal. Silicone/foamed the outside, another mdf layer to the sides (trunks an odd shape) with spray foam behind it (over more tape) and covered it all off with Alpha Damp so it's a flat surface. And to make it look pretty I sprayed it with black plasti dip. No difference in SPL open or closed anymore.

pro-rabbit
06-06-2012, 08:05 PM
You all make sealing off the trunk way to hard of a project lol.

CAT MAN
06-06-2012, 10:07 PM
You all make sealing off the trunk way to hard of a project lol.well i just need ideas. the last few i sealed off was peel and seal and cardboard. i wanted to see how everyone else does it. ill get on it this weekend.