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splwj47
03-26-2012, 12:17 AM
i worked on the jeep about 16 hours this weekend, got alot acomplished. it was my first time installing components in a vehicle. still need a few more iteams like a battery and some deadner.
products:
alpine 9885
cdt es 010 tweets
cdt es 6mo (soon to come, should be here end of this week or early next week, ups fvcked the first set up.)
cdt ex 530 xovers
stinger 16 gauge speaker wire
2x stinger rca's
american bass 10 gauge speaker wire (subs)
dc 175.4
dc 2.0k
dc lvl 3 12's
2/0 welding cable power & ground for sub amp
4 gauge bassworx power & ground for mids and highs amp

splwj47
03-26-2012, 12:28 AM
some moar pics

kramer_212
03-26-2012, 12:28 AM
Slurp slurp, keep up dey good work

SourDeez
03-26-2012, 12:31 AM
looks hot brah canadians do it right eh

splwj47
03-26-2012, 12:35 AM
looks hot brah canadians do it right eh

you know how we roll

hispls
03-26-2012, 01:12 AM
Sub up and port back is supperior in Jeep.... just saying. Looks clean though.

CHRIS 323
03-26-2012, 01:14 AM
can you do the pics bigger at tinypic.com

splwj47
03-26-2012, 01:16 AM
Sub up and port back is supperior in Jeep.... just saying. Looks clean though.

ya its the box out of my old car just painted it and threw it in the jeep. sounds pretty decent and get down pretty good, but going to be upgrading woofers soon to 2 15 death penaltys and thats what my next box will be subs up port back.

hispls
03-26-2012, 01:23 AM
ya its the box out of my old car just painted it and threw it in the jeep. sounds pretty decent and get down pretty good, but going to be upgrading woofers soon to 2 15 death penaltys and thats what my next box will be subs up port back.


Port to the side works well too, you may need to go that way to have enough volume for 15's, keep it below the window line, and not crowd the port too tight into the back wall. Actually I have found that firing the port into a corner is optimum, but not terribly practical for just driving around.

splwj47
03-26-2012, 01:31 AM
Port to the side works well too, you may need to go that way to have enough volume for 15's, keep it below the window line, and not crowd the port too tight into the back wall. Actually I have found that firing the port into a corner is optimum, but not terribly practical for just driving around.

ya my plan was to do port to the side, why isnt it practival for just driving around? my max demensions are 48w x 30d x 20h to keep it below window so think ill have enough volume for the 15s.

---------- Post added at 12:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:30 AM ----------


can you do the pics bigger at tinypic.com

just click on them they get bigger

CHRIS 323
03-26-2012, 02:10 AM
here is my 2005 jeep grand cherokee build http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/539204-2005-jeep-grand-cherokee-build.html

splwj47
03-26-2012, 10:54 AM
here is my 2005 jeep grand cherokee build http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/539204-2005-jeep-grand-cherokee-build.html

looks good, u get all ur amps installed yet?

CHRIS 323
03-26-2012, 11:47 AM
looks good, u get all ur amps installed yet?

nah im waiting for the box cause im going to mount the amps on the box

hispls
03-26-2012, 06:57 PM
ya my plan was to do port to the side, why isnt it practival for just driving around? my max demensions are 48w x 30d x 20h to keep it below window so think ill have enough volume for the 15s.

---------- Post added at 12:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:30 AM ----------



just click on them they get bigger

Porting INTO THE CORNER isn't practical, to the side is typically easy. You won't have 48" side to side if you want enough room for the port to function.

splwj47
03-26-2012, 07:31 PM
Porting INTO THE CORNER isn't practical, to the side is typically easy. You won't have 48" side to side if you want enough room for the port to function.

what do u mean?

hispls
03-26-2012, 09:01 PM
The port will want to be 8 or 10 inches away from walls to function properly. You can't just have your port 2" from the side of your cargo area and expect it to work.

splwj47
03-26-2012, 11:26 PM
The port will want to be 8 or 10 inches away from walls to function properly. You can't just have your port 2" from the side of your cargo area and expect it to work.

ya i hear ya. i want to do port to the back on one side or port back on the bottom.
something like this:

hispls
03-26-2012, 11:45 PM
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/hispls/Fall%202011%20shocker%20builds/IMAG0060.jpg
^^^ this is how to orient a port to get loud



This is next best

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/hispls/Fall%202011%20shocker%20builds/DSC01737.jpg

Notice port comes out the side but is far enough away from side wall to breathe. I haven't had great results with port firing rear overall and you end up sacrificing a lot of volume to keep the box far enough away from the lift gate.

splwj47
03-26-2012, 11:51 PM
port comes out the side but is far enough away from side wall to breathe. I haven't had great results with port firing rear overall and you end up sacrificing a lot of volume to keep the box far enough away from the lift gate.

hispls thanks for all the advice man. so u think ill have enough room to do 7 or 8 cubes with port firing to the side like that?

hispls
03-27-2012, 12:07 AM
thanks for all the advice man. so u think ill have enough room to do 7 or 8 cubes with port firing to the side like that?

Not if you want to keep it below the window line. This one was just about 6 after displacement and was tight to the back wall and only a couple inches to the seat back (amps mounted to seat back)
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/hispls/New%20recone%20pics/DSC06987.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/hispls/New%20recone%20pics/DSC06986.jpg



This was the best sounding box I've made to date, but not particularly impressive on the meter. This is @ 8.5 cube net. It comes up about 22 or 23" off the floor though (which is 4-5" above the window line IIRC).

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/hispls/Fall%202011%20shocker%20builds/DSC01762.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/hispls/Fall%202011%20shocker%20builds/DSC01761.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/hispls/Fall%202011%20shocker%20builds/DSC01783.jpg


I could show you as many pictures of boxes that were a total failure too....let me have wasted the wood for you.

splwj47
03-27-2012, 12:16 AM
Not if you want to keep it below the window line. This one was just about 6 after displacement and was tight to the back wall and only a couple inches to the seat back (amps mounted to seat back)

This was the best sounding box I've made to date, but not particularly impressive on the meter. This is @ 8.5 cube net. It comes up about 22 or 23" off the floor though (which is 4-5" above the window line IIRC).

I could show you as many pictures of boxes that were a total failure too....let me have wasted the wood for you.

what vehicle is that in? so in ur opinion what would be the best box in you opinion to do for most output and still have decent sound quality?

hispls
03-27-2012, 12:34 AM
what vehicle is that in? so in ur opinion what would be the best box in you opinion to do for most output and still have decent sound quality?



97 Grand Cherokee. LOL. I'm on the fence myself about what to do for my next build. The one I liked with everything firing up I left out in the yard and the port fell apart (sono tube is great for box building but not waterproof!) and I'm leaning towards re-building that. You should get a peak @ 54-57hz depending on the day (cabin gain). Really that seems to be good sounding and most efficient use of space BUT if you care about being on a meter, one that ports out the side with subs up will be best (you angle it to fire port at the corner when burping to gain a little more).


Subs and port forward is absolute crap, subs and port back is crap, subs firing to either side and port up is pretty good (also efficient use of space). I know Jacob at Sundown has sub up port back in his jeep, but it is pulled quite a bit forward (seats laid down for this), and personally I haven't had much luck firing ports back (especially compared to into a corner or out the side).

SO I'd say subs up and port to the side IF you can get enough volume while keeping enough space in front of the port, if you need more space, settle for subs and port up which will sound nice. If you care about SPL numbers you MUST port out the side if you want to keep everything behind the back seats, in which case you'll need to sacrifice volume or use less cone area.

splwj47
03-27-2012, 12:52 AM
97 Grand Cherokee. LOL. I'm on the fence myself about what to do for my next build. The one I liked with everything firing up I left out in the yard and the port fell apart (sono tube is great for box building but not waterproof!) and I'm leaning towards re-building that. You should get a peak @ 54-57hz depending on the day (cabin gain). Really that seems to be good sounding and most efficient use of space BUT if you care about being on a meter, one that ports out the side with subs up will be best (you angle it to fire port at the corner when burping to gain a little more).


Subs and port forward is absolute crap, subs and port back is crap, subs firing to either side and port up is pretty good (also efficient use of space). I know Jacob at Sundown has sub up port back in his jeep, but it is pulled quite a bit forward (seats laid down for this), and personally I haven't had much luck firing ports back (especially compared to into a corner or out the side).

SO I'd say subs up and port to the side IF you can get enough volume while keeping enough space in front of the port, if you need more space, settle for subs and port up which will sound nice. If you care about SPL numbers you MUST port out the side if you want to keep everything behind the back seats, in which case you'll need to sacrifice volume or use less cone area.

well im gonna try and make port to the side happen how many inches should u give the port from the side of the jeep?

Dr. Slam
03-27-2012, 01:05 AM
Im pulling my Nightshade 15s from my buick and putting them in my Grand Cherokee. So im in for box tips as well.

This thread has been very helpful and informative.

Appreciate the info Hispls and keep up the good work Zigzag

hispls
03-27-2012, 10:24 AM
well im gonna try and make port to the side happen how many inches should u give the port from the side of the jeep?


Conventional wisdom is at least a port width away from the wall. All my boxes with port out the side have left 8 to 10" between box and side wall. If you are only a port width from the wall it can act to extend your port and lower tuning, which can be good, but it's nothing you can plan around with out building a few boxes to test, if you crowd a port too close to a wall it will begin to behave like a leaky sealed box (bad).

I know yours is a slightly different model so you can plan around the contours in the side walls to allow a little more breathing room for the port. In mine I have slightly more space where the spare tire was so most of my boxes fire to the driver's side. The one pictured above with the duct tape all over it was my loudest on the meter and trough a lot of testing that precise angle was best, though generally anywhere into the passanger side corner was a gain over other aiming strategies.

splwj47
04-04-2012, 12:49 PM
got my mids in this moirning. will probably install this weekend. i have to file another claim threw usps since on of the mids were screwed again. but one of the new ones are good and one of the old ones are good so i have one good set out of 2 sets.

splwj47
04-06-2012, 10:36 PM
got the mids installed today. had to make a baffle cuz the frounts originally had 6x9s, so put a few coats of paint on the baffles. everything turned out good and they sound awesome!
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/mid9.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/mid8.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/mid7.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/mid2.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/mid6.jpg
my helper quit on me lol
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/mid5.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/mid1.jpg
[IMG]http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/mid3.jpg

mylows10
04-06-2012, 10:47 PM
very nice doug

hispls
04-06-2012, 11:26 PM
Slightly different door panels on yours. My mids are quite a bit lower and stock 6.5" though I needed to cut rings as well for depth issues.

Built a new box last week, works pretty well, 6 cube net tuned @ 36hz and would stay below the window line if I didn't have amps and batteries under it. Also I got the whole thing out of a single sheet of wood. Works well for pair of 12's, OK for single 18, though my 18 wants to tune higher and probaby wants a bit larger box.

Still tuned in.

splwj47
04-06-2012, 11:37 PM
Slightly different door panels on yours. My mids are quite a bit lower and stock 6.5" though I needed to cut rings as well for depth issues.

Built a new box last week, works pretty well, 6 cube net tuned @ 36hz and would stay below the window line if I didn't have amps and batteries under it. Also I got the whole thing out of a single sheet of wood. Works well for pair of 12's, OK for single 18, though my 18 wants to tune higher and probaby wants a bit larger box.

Still tuned in.

ya i like the 6.5s way better then the 6x9s, the 6.5 sounds so good and have about the same level of bass as the 6x9s. and i also would have need a baffle anyways since these mids at **** near 3 inches deep and wouldnt allow the window to roll down all the way otherwise.

im not to sure what im going to do as for upgrading woofers im kinda thinking about going with 18s, i was talking to ram and i have enough room for 14 cubes if i use areo ports and use up as much space as possible in the back. but its a toss up betweens the 15s and 18s. i would kinda like to keep it below the window and not have a huge *** box in the back, but i want to get LOUD lol.

hispls
04-06-2012, 11:58 PM
ya i like the 6.5s way better then the 6x9s, the 6.5 sounds so good and have about the same level of bass as the 6x9s. and i also would have need a baffle anyways since these mids at **** near 3 inches deep and wouldnt allow the window to roll down all the way otherwise.

im not to sure what im going to do as for upgrading woofers im kinda thinking about going with 18s, i was talking to ram and i have enough room for 14 cubes if i use areo ports and use up as much space as possible in the back. but its a toss up betweens the 15s and 18s. i would kinda like to keep it below the window and not have a huge *** box in the back, but i want to get LOUD lol.



IMO the only thing wrong with 6X9 is there really aren't any good quality ones (possibly a few, but not compared to the selection in 6.5" components).

Well, you've got about 8 or 9 cube net (wtih adequate port) if you want to stay below the window line and that's subs and port up. Good for a pair of 15's or 3 12's. I'm looking to get a pair of 18's going this year and the box is going to have to be very tall and from my experience crowding the port to close to the roof isn't so hot. Definitely subs and port firing forward is a disaster.... as tempting as it may seem avoid at all costs!

splwj47
04-07-2012, 12:43 AM
IMO the only thing wrong with 6X9 is there really aren't any good quality ones (possibly a few, but not compared to the selection in 6.5" components).

Well, you've got about 8 or 9 cube net (wtih adequate port) if you want to stay below the window line and that's subs and port up. Good for a pair of 15's or 3 12's. I'm looking to get a pair of 18's going this year and the box is going to have to be very tall and from my experience crowding the port to close to the roof isn't so hot. Definitely subs and port firing forward is a disaster.... as tempting as it may seem avoid at all costs!

well the box for the 18s would be 31dx42wx25h so i would have about 8 inches from the roof or 6 inches from the side of the vehicle and maybe 4 inches from the rear. so i dont know where would be the best spot for the ports ram said to use 3 8 inch aero ports. subs will be up just need to figure out where the ports will go. if i got with 15s then i will go subs up port to the side most likely maybe to the rear.

hispls
04-07-2012, 04:41 PM
well the box for the 18s would be 31dx42wx25h so i would have about 8 inches from the roof or 6 inches from the side of the vehicle and maybe 4 inches from the rear. so i dont know where would be the best spot for the ports ram said to use 3 8 inch aero ports. subs will be up just need to figure out where the ports will go. if i got with 15s then i will go subs up port to the side most likely maybe to the rear.

You may have issues with closing the rear hatch with a box that deep and tall. If you're only measuring on the floor you should double check all the angles going up and if you have the window that opens on the back you'll run into the pistons for that. 8" from the roof is bare minimum for 8" ports firing up and it may not be optimum and may make the ports act longer... still your best bet if you go that way.

The other thing that is tough going that high is that with the box in there isn't enough room to mount the subs (really ***** if your subs weigh 90 pounds ea) so you may have to mount the subs and find a few guys to try to wrestle the box in with the subs mounted.

splwj47
04-07-2012, 05:10 PM
You may have issues with closing the rear hatch with a box that deep and tall. If you're only measuring on the floor you should double check all the angles going up and if you have the window that opens on the back you'll run into the pistons for that. 8" from the roof is bare minimum for 8" ports firing up and it may not be optimum and may make the ports act longer... still your best bet if you go that way.

The other thing that is tough going that high is that with the box in there isn't enough room to mount the subs (really ***** if your subs weigh 90 pounds ea) so you may have to mount the subs and find a few guys to try to wrestle the box in with the subs mounted.

ya i measured the hatch opening and that is why i can only go 25 inches high with 42 wide or it wouldnt fit in the back. i think i may build the box out of birch to try and save a few pounds. but im not sure which way im going yet with the 15s or 18s, the 15s is more or a better choice for room and mounting plus weight. and im not sure if i am willing to give up all the space and added weight for the 18s, but i want loud.

hispls
04-07-2012, 08:09 PM
ya i measured the hatch opening and that is why i can only go 25 inches high with 42 wide or it wouldnt fit in the back. i think i may build the box out of birch to try and save a few pounds. but im not sure which way im going yet with the 15s or 18s, the 15s is more or a better choice for room and mounting plus weight. and im not sure if i am willing to give up all the space and added weight for the 18s, but i want loud.

From my experience you will get only marginal gains from 18's in too small a box crammed in vs. 15's in an optimum box with enough room for ports to function properly. A pair of 18's = cone area of 3 15's and real world gain would be 1db and small change on a good day....barely audible.

splwj47
04-07-2012, 09:37 PM
got my big 3 done today. didnt take much wire only about 9 feet and could have used probably 2 less.

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/wire3.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/wire2.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/wire.jpg

didnt get any pics of it installed as it was kinda startin to rain.

splwj47
04-07-2012, 09:46 PM
From my experience you will get only marginal gains from 18's in too small a box crammed in vs. 15's in an optimum box with enough room for ports to function properly. A pair of 18's = cone area of 3 15's and real world gain would be 1db and small change on a good day....barely audible.

well the box for the 18s would be 14 cubes so the 18s will have enough space for them to perform like they should. my current box is 38 inchs wide so addint another 2 inches to each side for the new box do u think there would be enough area for the port.
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q533/zigzag4200/build12.jpg

hispls
04-08-2012, 12:57 AM
If you want to port out the side you won't want the box more than 34" wide IMO. Crowding the port into the side wall looses db's. Seriously I don't know if you have more than 28" front to back if you go up 24". Seat backs angle in and the top half of the lift gate angles in as well. Personally I'd mock it up with cardboard or something before you go cutting any wood and drawing up blueprints unless you're good at changing your box on the fly in which case just dry-fit the pieces before you screw and glue and be ready to alter dimensions slightly. I got too greedy with my last box and couldn't lift the back seats all the way.

Mr. Slate
04-08-2012, 09:56 PM
Crowding the port into the side wall looses db's

Not in all cases, I've seen some vehicles gain.

splwj47
04-08-2012, 10:07 PM
If you want to port out the side you won't want the box more than 34" wide IMO. Crowding the port into the side wall looses db's. Seriously I don't know if you have more than 28" front to back if you go up 24". Seat backs angle in and the top half of the lift gate angles in as well. Personally I'd mock it up with cardboard or something before you go cutting any wood and drawing up blueprints unless you're good at changing your box on the fly in which case just dry-fit the pieces before you screw and glue and be ready to alter dimensions slightly. I got too greedy with my last box and couldn't lift the back seats all the way.

so im thinkin i might just do subs up port up, the meter doesnt really matter to me since it will probably never be on one , but i want it to be loud and have them hit really hard, so i might go subs up port back also. i kinda want the box to go all the way across the back for looks so port to the side wouldnt work. im thinkin im just going to go with 15s since 18s would just be so much more work and its easier on my wallet. ill do 8 cubes, kerfed port, with 120 inches or port. all ur advise is very appreciated. thanks.

hispls
04-08-2012, 10:39 PM
Not in all cases, I've seen some vehicles gain.

I expect so. Of course it's easier if you have a box that's small enough that you can test all angles and distances from walls. If you plan to build a box that'll barely fit in the space available and don't have room to move it if it doesn't work IMO it's not advisable.


so im thinkin i might just do subs up port up, the meter doesnt really matter to me since it will probably never be on one , but i want it to be loud and have them hit really hard, so i might go subs up port back also. i kinda want the box to go all the way across the back for looks so port to the side wouldnt work. im thinkin im just going to go with 15s since 18s would just be so much more work and its easier on my wallet. ill do 8 cubes, kerfed port, with 120 inches or port. all ur advise is very appreciated. thanks.

Subs up and port up sould be good for listening and you can use your whole width and depth and keep height right around the window line and end up with 8 cube net or so. Port on the side and I'd shoot for more port area and 37-40hz tuning. That box I posted with the 3 12's sounded fantastic. IIRC port was around 120-140"^2 (not counting the flare). Well worth the extra wood to double baffle and flush mount the woofers if you can.

splwj47
04-08-2012, 10:48 PM
I expect so. Of course it's easier if you have a box that's small enough that you can test all angles and distances from walls. If you plan to build a box that'll barely fit in the space available and don't have room to move it if it doesn't work IMO it's not advisable.



Subs up and port up sould be good for listening and you can use your whole width and depth and keep height right around the window line and end up with 8 cube net or so. Port on the side and I'd shoot for more port area and 37-40hz tuning. That box I posted with the 3 12's sounded fantastic. IIRC port was around 120-140"^2 (not counting the flare). Well worth the extra wood to double baffle and flush mount the woofers if you can.

ya i was going to do double baffle and flush mount, so u dont like subs up port back idea? why tune so high, i was thinkin 32-34hz range i want it to hammer the lows. would it still hit real hard with subs up port up. i more or less want them to get down and dirty over sounding good, but still want them to sound decent. if ya get what i mean lol.

hispls
04-08-2012, 11:05 PM
ya i was going to do double baffle and flush mount, so u dont like subs up port back idea? why tune so high, i was thinkin 32-34hz range i want it to hammer the lows. would it still hit real hard with subs up port up. i more or less want them to get down and dirty over sounding good, but still want them to sound decent. if ya get what i mean lol.

Port back is terrible mostly because it's such an inefficient use of space. Assuming you want 6 or 8" between the port and the wall, Takc 6" off the 42" side and you lose a load of volume for minimal gain (difference between porting back, side, and up is really not that dramatic if you're not chasing numbers).

Tuning 37 is pretty low. IMO 45hz and up is tuning high. Really depends on the subs you wind up getting, but I find tuning @ 30hz you have a peak there, and a small peak @ 55hz with a sharp rolloff above that. SO your slowed music with notes below 40hz sounds great, but anything more dynamic just sounds un-natural.

IDK if you have a meter or way to see what frequency is what, but I suspect you rely on 50-60hz much more than you think and what you think is super low is probably 35-37. AND tuning @ 37 you should still be able to play down to 30hz well enough.

Get some test tones and see what 20-30hz really sounds like and if you feel like you're really missing the boat without that being your loudest notes go head and tune 28-32hz. I'd reccomend using more port area than you need, tuning to 37, then adding more layers to your port or extending it on the back to tune lower if you decide you really need to go there.

Then again, it'll depend on your subs as well, but I've tested a pretty good variety and I find that's the best compromise between good impact and low extension.

splwj47
04-08-2012, 11:25 PM
Port back is terrible mostly because it's such an inefficient use of space. Assuming you want 6 or 8" between the port and the wall, Takc 6" off the 42" side and you lose a load of volume for minimal gain (difference between porting back, side, and up is really not that dramatic if you're not chasing numbers).

Tuning 37 is pretty low. IMO 45hz and up is tuning high. Really depends on the subs you wind up getting, but I find tuning @ 30hz you have a peak there, and a small peak @ 55hz with a sharp rolloff above that. SO your slowed music with notes below 40hz sounds great, but anything more dynamic just sounds un-natural.

IDK if you have a meter or way to see what frequency is what, but I suspect you rely on 50-60hz much more than you think and what you think is super low is probably 35-37. AND tuning @ 37 you should still be able to play down to 30hz well enough.

Get some test tones and see what 20-30hz really sounds like and if you feel like you're really missing the boat without that being your loudest notes go head and tune 28-32hz. I'd reccomend using more port area than you need, tuning to 37, then adding more layers to your port or extending it on the back to tune lower if you decide you really need to go there.

Then again, it'll depend on your subs as well, but I've tested a pretty good variety and I find that's the best compromise between good impact and low extension.

im going to be going with 2 IA death penaltys, i dont have a meter and dont think anyplace around here has one either. theres no comps or nothing up here so that why i wont be chasing numbers, i just want loud and hard hitting to me since that is that matters. so should i go 140-160 for port area. IA recomends 3-5 cubes and 55-80 inces of port per woofer.

hispls
04-08-2012, 11:44 PM
im going to be going with 2 IA death penaltys, i dont have a meter and dont think anyplace around here has one either. theres no comps or nothing up here so that why i wont be chasing numbers, i just want loud and hard hitting to me since that is that matters. so should i go 140-160 for port area. IA recomends 3-5 cubes and 55-80 inces of port per woofer.

Pass me some TS parameters on those subs and I'll compare them to what I've tested in my jeep when I have a minute.

splwj47
04-08-2012, 11:49 PM
Pass me some TS parameters on those subs and I'll compare them to what I've tested in my jeep when I have a minute.

they dont give u any on the site. ill do a google search and see if anything comes up.

hispls
04-09-2012, 10:49 AM
Sadly they don't publish specs on them and I couldn't find any that someone else measured. Also I hope you don't plan on paying MSRP for any of that stuff. I do still hold with tuning 37 which is their high side.

splwj47
04-09-2012, 10:52 AM
Sadly they don't publish specs on them and I couldn't find any that someone else measured. Also I hope you don't plan on paying MSRP for any of that stuff. I do still hold with tuning 37 which is their high side.

no i dont, i will be getting them threw the canadian rep and he gave me a hell of a price 388 shipped per woofer. but i am also thinking since my lvl 3s are about to have coil failure i might send them to spl and get them turned into 15s and get them to handle 1500rms+, but might be cheaper just to get the dps after shipping to lvl 3s to and back to me might cast more then the dps do shipped to me.

hispls
04-09-2012, 11:14 AM
no i dont, i will be getting them threw the canadian rep and he gave me a hell of a price 388 shipped per woofer. but i am also thinking since my lvl 3s are about to have coil failure i might send them to spl and get them turned into 15s and get them to handle 1500rms+, but might be cheaper just to get the dps after shipping to lvl 3s to and back to me might cast more then the dps do shipped to me.



Gotcha... Forgot you're in Canada. Yeah, shipping will be brutal and IMO LV 3 isn't really a platform that's worth throwing a bunch of money into trying to "upgrade". That's a pretty fair price with shipping to Canada figured in.

IF you wanted to learn to do recone yourself you could probably have softparts shipped to you for a fair price since they're pretty light, but shipping a fully built sub in and out is a rough hit.

splwj47
04-09-2012, 11:19 AM
ya im trying to sell these to a sucker locally, so i hope they sell before the coils go. ya i would like to learn how to do recones but dont really have any idea on what to do, i kinda messed around with my old pheonix golds by cuttin the soft parts out but after that i dont know what im doing. but i dont think im gonna bother with recones for them since there not what i want anymore im going with more power and want 15s. and the dps are a fair price so it seems like the best route to go.

splwj47
04-10-2012, 01:59 AM
a little vid to show you guys the mids and tweets.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O--d_ncq55Y&feature=youtu.be

Mr. Slate
04-13-2012, 09:36 PM
If this helps.......98 Lincoln Navigator
2 Solo X 18" (first on the East Coast to compete with them)
10^3 sub up port back tuned to 48hz
box was exactly 4" from rear hatch
Won a National Title in my class with a 56.6
The guy I beat was an undefeated National Champ. He had 4 12" sub up port back in a Grand Cherokee.

hispls
04-13-2012, 10:32 PM
If this helps.......98 Lincoln Navigator
2 Solo X 18" (first on the East Coast to compete with them)
10^3 sub up port back tuned to 48hz
box was exactly 4" from rear hatch
Won a National Title in my class with a 56.6
The guy I beat was an undefeated National Champ. He had 4 12" sub up port back in a Grand Cherokee.

So the moral of the story is port back in grand cherokee looses to Solo X's?

JK.

Did his setup have back seats? Did it play music or just fart at 55hz? I know Jacob ports back in his Jeep but his box is quite a bit out from the hatch. I have metered all over the place and had best results firing into the corner.

hispls
04-13-2012, 10:32 PM
If this helps.......98 Lincoln Navigator
2 Solo X 18" (first on the East Coast to compete with them)
10^3 sub up port back tuned to 48hz
box was exactly 4" from rear hatch
Won a National Title in my class with a 56.6
The guy I beat was an undefeated National Champ. He had 4 12" sub up port back in a Grand Cherokee.

So the moral of the story is port back in grand cherokee looses to Solo X's?

JK.

Did his setup have back seats? Did it play music or just fart at 55hz? I know Jacob ports back in his Jeep but his box is quite a bit out from the hatch. I have metered all over the place and had best results firing into the corner.

splwj47
04-15-2012, 12:31 AM
took a little vid of the bass tonight as i was fvcking around setting the 4 channel with dmm.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdvm215A2IM&feature=youtu.be

Mr. Slate
04-17-2012, 09:16 PM
So the moral of the story is port back in grand cherokee looses to Solo X's?

JK.

Did his setup have back seats? Did it play music or just fart at 55hz? I know Jacob ports back in his Jeep but his box is quite a bit out from the hatch. I have metered all over the place and had best results firing into the corner.

Yes, he had back seats, we competed in the stock class so we couldn't remove the seats. Not sure what his frequency was but both vehicles were our daily drivers, so we both played music.

splwj47
05-04-2012, 11:11 PM
just an update. ordered the new pioneer 80prs gonna go active, and an incriminator audio 21 inch death penalty. keep_hope_alive is building me some custome tweeter pods for the sail pannel. should be some more pics in a week or so. or maybe will start a new build log.