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View Full Version : Skar audio VVX15 8cft box buildness



VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 09:43 PM
So I decided to give up pretty much my trunk to power a single vvx15 off of a single SK1500.1 (I have not gotten the VVX15 nor the amp due to the woofers being out of stock until the 5th and no monies for the amp yet)
Design (c) Mobile Enclosures.

3D: http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/ScreenShot2012-03-01at70915AM.png

Propped up (not all of it glued in at the time, but I DO have it pretty much done in my trunk, just need to wait for the 15" to come so I can finally put the lid on: http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/399228_10150874005827729_738522728_12783075_113397 059_n.jpg

*edit* Heres a photo of it in the car with the lid off, kind of hard to get a overhead view of it inside it and its a little bright:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/IMAG0108.jpg

I'll post some videos and more pictures of it with the lid off in the AM since its dark and raining right now.

DoesDad
03-19-2012, 09:44 PM
Looks quiet....:eek:

09civic
03-19-2012, 09:44 PM
Looks good.

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 09:49 PM
Thanks since its in my car now I'll tape off the trunk then spray paint it black and I already painted the face (port end).

For now I just tossed in my Type R 12" ghetto rigged off a crappy RF Punch 300watt just for the sake of listening to what I'm assuming is bottoming out or just airleaks since its not sealed all the way yet. :V

pickup1
03-19-2012, 09:51 PM
8 cubes,.....really?

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 09:53 PM
8 cubes,.....really?

Yes :V

Bettr n' Revrse
03-19-2012, 09:59 PM
Why???

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 10:01 PM
Why???
I gave my max dimensions to Jason and he gave me this I was like 'ight cool. Its tuned to 30hertz with 25.25" sonotube aeros.

Bettr n' Revrse
03-19-2012, 10:02 PM
If I was using that much space screw tuning in the 30's!

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 10:04 PM
As far as it was going on the crappy 300watt with the gain all the way up almost (Just for shits and giggles since its not my real deal just my donkey) it boogied in the lows I'll show videos once its all done, hopefully I could stop by the local car audioshop if they have a TL or something so I can meter this sh*t

DoesDad
03-19-2012, 10:04 PM
I've got a '99 Monte Carlo similar to the Malibu. How the H E L L you fit an 8 cubic ft. box in the trunk? I had trouble with 4 cubes!

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 10:05 PM
Also after some time I'll eventually bump up to 2 SK1500.1's and determine if I can run 2 15"s just in the trunk or something.

Dirtrider4eva
03-19-2012, 10:05 PM
thats way to big of a box man..

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 10:06 PM
I've got a '99 Monte Carlo similar to the Malibu. How the H E L L you fit an 8 cubic ft. box in the trunk? I had trouble with 4 cubes!
Its in! I'll post a picture tomorrow check back I had to bend 2 points of sheet metal to fit the top on, I'll post pictures of those too.

Bettr n' Revrse
03-19-2012, 10:07 PM
Also after some time I'll eventually bump up to 2 SK1500.1's and determine if I can run 2 15"s just in the trunk or something.

You wont even need to change boxes just drop in a second...

CAT MAN
03-19-2012, 10:07 PM
yeah 8 cubes lol...

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 10:08 PM
You wont even need to change boxes just drop in a second...

Probably (think right below the original woofer would be alright?) I wouldn't think you want the woofer right next to the openings of the tubes.

The_Grimy_One
03-19-2012, 10:09 PM
I would have had them build you an 18. Lol. That box is HUGE! Nice box tho.

Dirtrider4eva
03-19-2012, 10:10 PM
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facepalm

Bettr n' Revrse
03-19-2012, 10:10 PM
Probably (think right below the original woofer would be alright?) I wouldn't think you want the woofer right next to the openings of the tubes.

Might as well do it now since a single 1500 is good

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 10:12 PM
• . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . ,.-‘”. . . . . . . . . .``~.,
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facepalm

<3

Any recommendations on an easy way to shave off maybe 1/4" of wood? the sander the future-inlaws have doesn't sand very well.

Dirtrider4eva
03-19-2012, 10:14 PM
<3

Any recommendations on an easy way to shave off maybe 1/4" of wood? the sander the future-inlaws have doesn't sand very well.

Buy 1/2" wood

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 10:17 PM
Another good thing is I don't need to invest in an L bracket to keep it from moving :D

cyn
03-19-2012, 10:19 PM
DAYUM... 8cubes pretty freaking huge man... my 4th order for my single 12 was a total of 4.5 cubes after displacement... eh..... but none the less nice box man

Bettr n' Revrse
03-19-2012, 10:21 PM
Another good thing is I don't need to invest in an L bracket to keep it from moving :D

Does it even have room to work like it should?

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 10:22 PM
Does it even have room to work like it should?
the box? I will run it with the seats down (its cabin firing)

plantinseeds
03-19-2012, 10:25 PM
Box looks great man!

Bettr n' Revrse
03-19-2012, 10:26 PM
How close is the sub to the back deck?

dirtyunclerandy
03-19-2012, 10:32 PM
thats a big *** box

-01limited-
03-19-2012, 10:35 PM
My mach 5 18" box isnt even that big. And it likes bigger boxes than normal. Just dont see why you need that big of a box. How much power is it going to be seeing? My box is big for low power/high efficiency

Epic0318
03-19-2012, 10:50 PM
i have a box for 2 15s and its a bit smaller than yours.

g6ryder
03-19-2012, 11:05 PM
8 cubes is WAYYY to big man actually these Skars do well in smaller application they don't require much space for a 15" should of stayed around 3 cubes do to over powering first off and second it's completely to large for a single VVX 15

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 11:19 PM
How close is the sub to the back deck?
Ehhh I removed my rear speakers and I'm sitting at about 3" give 'er take

We'll see how it performs once I get **** rollin'

Its going to be powered by the SK1500.1 @1ohms (1680) but after the rise etc etc probably like 900-1000rms.

Bettr n' Revrse
03-19-2012, 11:21 PM
I see over excursion in your future lol

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 11:23 PM
I see over excursion in your future lol
What causes that? big *** boxes?
I'll let you know ;)

Bettr n' Revrse
03-19-2012, 11:25 PM
Big *** boxes and over powering...

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 11:27 PM
Big *** boxes and over powering...

proper gain setting and I think I'll be fine, even turning it a little down past that too, look forward to a video my friend.

-01limited-
03-19-2012, 11:45 PM
I dont think you understand at all. Over-power and a big box makes the sub travel a lot more than the normal. Thats why big boxes/low power or small/boxes and high power go together. you cant have big boxes and high power, you're just going to destroy your sub. but hey to each is their own. waste your money, check back when you've blown it up and let us know how long it lasted.

VisceralSound
03-19-2012, 11:47 PM
I dont think you understand at all. Over-power and a big box makes the sub travel a lot more than the normal. Thats why big boxes/low power or small/boxes and high power go together. you cant have big boxes and high power, you're just going to destroy your sub. but hey to each is their own. waste your money, check back when you've blown it up and let us know how long it lasted.
o7

Will do

kushy_dreams
03-20-2012, 12:11 AM
Just an fyi, aero ports have flared ends, you are just using a simple round port. Sorry just one of my pet peeves.

VisceralSound
03-20-2012, 12:13 AM
Just an fyi, aero ports have flared ends, you are just using a simple round port. Sorry just one of my pet peeves.

Thanks I'll change my terminology :)

VisceralSound
03-20-2012, 12:21 AM
Doing the math (originally he had it as 35x15x35 but I trimmed it a few and its now 33" deep x 15" high x 34" wide which I guess brings up 9.7 Bring MOAR praise! it is what it is.

dfoland93
03-20-2012, 12:24 AM
:waycrazy: :waycrazy: :dont:

-01limited-
03-20-2012, 12:27 AM
you should only run like 300 watts to reach maximum excursion.

Bettr n' Revrse
03-20-2012, 01:14 AM
Yep

VisceralSound
03-20-2012, 01:17 AM
I'll give the 300watts a shot once I get it squared away with a DMM etc etc.

box is pretty cool though :{|

ddcmdb
03-20-2012, 01:29 AM
Inside diameter measurements? And also after displacement??

-01limited-
03-20-2012, 02:23 AM
Its not going to take much to get that sub moving at full excursion. Not much at all. Just dont want you to bottom it out horribly thinking you can throw 1600 watts to it and it just be ok.

Bettr n' Revrse
03-20-2012, 02:55 AM
I'll give the 300watts a shot once I get it squared away with a DMM etc etc.

box is pretty cool though :{|

screw the DMM method thats kinda out the window with a box this big... Just set it by sight...

chillin
03-20-2012, 04:06 AM
Just looked over your measurements and assuming you used 3/4", you are just under 8 cubes before ports and sub dispacement, so that will help a little, but that box is still way too big.

Mitch86
03-20-2012, 04:13 AM
Just looked over your measurements and assuming you used 3/4", you are just under 8 cubes before ports and sub dispacement, so that will help a little, but that box is still way too big. this^ after displacements its probably around 7cubes...which is still double of what you need.

Bettr n' Revrse
03-20-2012, 04:16 AM
this^ after displacements its probably around 7cubes...which is still double of what you need.

exactly so just add another and be done...

VisceralSound
03-20-2012, 09:08 AM
After calculating the wood+woofer displacement+port displacement, I'm still sitting at about 7.8-7.9cft.

Mitch86
03-20-2012, 09:20 AM
If these are external dimensions that you posted: 33" deep x 15" high x 34", it comes to 7.9 before sub or port displacement. What size ports are those and how long btw?

VisceralSound
03-20-2012, 09:23 AM
Its actually 18 high I forgot that the 15 was internal.

8" diameter, and 25.25" long

wickedwitt
03-20-2012, 09:31 AM
Proud to see someone actually building a proper sized box.

VisceralSound
03-20-2012, 09:33 AM
Proud to see someone actually building a proper sized box.

Atleast someone likes it :V

wickedwitt
03-20-2012, 09:44 AM
Atleast someone likes it :V

Yeah, don't listen to these guys. If you want it to slam like no one around, keep the size, keep it on RMS power, hit play and enjoy. If you end up getting enough power to run two, build another proper box and try to maintain that same size per sub. You'd be amazed at the results.

Then again, just ask someone local like IonRL. I'm not loud, I wouldn't know what I'm talking about...:rolleyes:

VisceralSound
03-20-2012, 04:43 PM
Yeah, don't listen to these guys. If you want it to slam like no one around, keep the size, keep it on RMS power, hit play and enjoy. If you end up getting enough power to run two, build another proper box and try to maintain that same size per sub. You'd be amazed at the results.

Then again, just ask someone local like IonRL. I'm not loud, I wouldn't know what I'm talking about...:rolleyes:
Good man

Fi_
03-20-2012, 04:49 PM
While I agree that the box seems rather large they perform rediculously if done right... Port area plays a BIG role on boxes this big. I'm thinking of doing 3.5-4ft^3 per 15" on my next build right now they're getting 3ft^3 each D:

Also I wouldn't out more than 600w to that subwoofer in 8ft^3 I think people on the forums are assuming you'll do almost twice that as SKARS are known to take 1k+. Even with the smallest box possible for that subwoofer I wouldn't put more than 800w to it daily lol. I like SKAR's but they're no SA.

groundpound4200
03-20-2012, 04:50 PM
I run a pair of Skar 15"s in 8.25 cubes and I was told it was on the big side... Is there physically enough room on the baffle to mount a second one?

VisceralSound
03-20-2012, 04:51 PM
I run a pair of Skar 15"s in 8.25 cubes and I was told it was on the big side... Is there physically enough room on the baffle to mount a second one?
Once I actually get the vvx from Kevin I'll measure a second 15 and make sure before hand if not I'll experiment a little.

wickedwitt
03-20-2012, 05:26 PM
While I agree that the box seems rather large they perform rediculously if done right... Port area plays a BIG role on boxes this big. I'm thinking of doing 3.5-4ft^3 per 15" on my next build right now they're getting 3ft^3 each D:

Also I wouldn't out more than 600w to that subwoofer in 8ft^3 I think people on the forums are assuming you'll do almost twice that as SKARS are known to take 1k+. Even with the smallest box possible for that subwoofer I wouldn't put more than 800w to it daily lol. I like SKAR's but they're no SA.
Yes, it isn't really a smart thing to take woofers and go over their RMS rating when using boxes this big. That's the great thing about large enclosures, though. They get stupid loud, have a huge response window, and do it on less power than recommended boxes that are usually in the 3-4 cu. range.

VisceralSound
03-20-2012, 09:05 PM
Since its being built in my trunk, any recommendatiobs on gluing/caulking the lid on? And something heavy enough to apply decent pressure.

VisceralSound
03-21-2012, 04:46 AM
Updated post#1 with photo of the box in the car without the lid, has 3 1/4 of a circle of sonotube in the 3 corners.

VisceralSound
03-30-2012, 08:37 PM
Even though its only a 1500.1 but I should be ordering my Dual +/- inputs from Toolmaker in the next week, and ordered (regardless of it being half CCA/OFC) 2 Cadence 1/0 amp kits. I have 1 more thing planned nothing fancy but it will be mounted to the box, can't say if I'm getting it or not still talking to Toolmaker about it.

SourDeez
03-31-2012, 12:00 AM
Interested in hearing this lol

seriously though, whats the explanation for 9 cubes on a single 15?

VisceralSound
03-31-2012, 12:08 AM
Interested in hearing this lol

seriously though, whats the explanation for 9 cubes on a single 15?

All in due time my friend I'll hit you up for a demo when it's done.

SourDeez
03-31-2012, 12:23 AM
Sounds good

VisceralSound
04-04-2012, 08:03 PM
Ordered my SK1500.1 today off ebay for 300shipped should be receiving my tracking number later tonight and be getting it within the next 5-6days.

plantinseeds
04-05-2012, 12:10 AM
Ordered my SK1500.1 today off ebay for 300shipped should be receiving my tracking number later tonight and be getting it within the next 5-6days.

300 shipped?! Great deal my friend.

---------- Post added at 11:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:09 PM ----------


Ordered my SK1500.1 today off ebay for 300shipped should be receiving my tracking number later tonight and be getting it within the next 5-6days.

300 shipped?! Great deal my friend.

VisceralSound
04-05-2012, 01:14 AM
300 shipped?! Great deal my friend.

---------- Post added at 11:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:09 PM ----------



300 shipped?! Great deal my friend.
BNIB too.

VisceralSound
04-05-2012, 04:30 PM
Just got my Cadence 1/0 gauge wire in from Fedex, I'll post pictures once its done uploading after work!

Amp is in the mail as well just waiting on Kevin and the guys at SKAR to get the VVX15's back in stock then I'll be boomin'

VisceralSound
04-06-2012, 02:17 PM
2 of these came in for dual ground and power.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120405_151858.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120405_151958.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120405_152229.jpg

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 01:33 AM
Got my 2 runs wired up, I LOST 2 of my last ring terminals to finish the Fuse>Battery wire so I had to wait which is why thats empty.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120407_135833.jpg

also ordered my VVX15 once they come in stock monday I'll get it asap and get this shiztnat banging.

Edit: and no the fuse boxes are not JUST ziptied, thats just to keep the cover more secure, its screwed and likely locktighted to the fuse box cover.

Louisiana_CRX
04-08-2012, 01:53 AM
that's a good looking box SpiderMonkey

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 01:55 AM
that's a good looking box SpiderMonkey
Thanks I'm sure it'll hit low SpiderMonkey

Louisiana_CRX
04-08-2012, 01:58 AM
Thanks I'm sure it'll hit low SpiderMonkey

I bet it will SpiderMonkey

cyn
04-08-2012, 02:01 AM
bet it will sound pretty good off 100watts SpiderMonkey

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 02:23 AM
bet it will sound pretty good off 100watts SpiderMonkey
I'm going do be doing it off a lot more than 100watts. SpiderMonkey

cyn
04-08-2012, 02:41 AM
I'm going do be doing it off a lot more than 100watts. SpiderMonkey

yup I know but in that box it would get loud off of 50-300watts easy tho.... SpiderMonkey

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 02:42 AM
yup I know but in that box it would get loud off of 50-300watts easy tho.... SpiderMonkey
True but hey live and learn I'm confident it'll shake the **** out of my car off 1600rms (I trust Jasons decision/design)
SpiderMonkey

Imtjnotu
04-08-2012, 02:47 AM
....big asss box for no reason..........but again all he ever does is juggle skars balls

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:02 AM
....big asss box for no reason..........but again all he ever does is juggle skars balls

http://chzmemebase.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/internet-memes-thats-all-anyone-needs1.jpg

UnderFire
04-08-2012, 03:13 AM
I'm no psychic, but I sense over-excursion in your future.

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:15 AM
I'm no psychic, but I sense over-excursion in your future.

http://30.media.tumblr.com/PBKbqCsksdipxu8eX6bTLAOA_500.jpg

Imtjnotu
04-08-2012, 03:16 AM
I'm no psychic, but I sense over-excursion in your future.

no need to be a psychic..... ray charles can see this coming


u put a sub in in a box built for an 18 then give it twice the rms........visual hype congrats on being a fuckin idiot

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:17 AM
no need to be a psychic..... ray charles can see this coming


u put a sub in in a box built for an 18 then give it twice the rms........visual hype congrats on being a fuckin idiot
Thanks!

UnderFire
04-08-2012, 03:18 AM
no need to be a psychic..... ray charles can see this coming


u put a sub in in a box built for an 18 then give it twice the rms........visual hype congrats on being a fuckin idiot

This. Put a real sub in that thing.

Imtjnotu
04-08-2012, 03:19 AM
This. Put a real sub in that thing.

he cant his skar goggles are clouded with kevins balls

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:22 AM
:up2somet:

chillin
04-08-2012, 03:41 AM
Have you heard of hoffmans iron law? You are basically going against everything it says, you are just doing the opposite.

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:44 AM
Have you heard of hoffmans iron law? You are basically going against everything it says, you are just doing the opposite.
Its all good.

Imtjnotu
04-08-2012, 03:48 AM
Its all good.

thats just it its not all good noob

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:49 AM
thats just it its not all good noob
It's


All


Good

TheUnderFighter
04-08-2012, 03:54 AM
Yea.... usually you build a bigger box for lower power.... but that box is twice as big for double the rms... you better get a second sub before you destroy that single 15.

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 04:01 AM
Meh if **** happens, **** happens.

I'm confident in Jasons choices.

TheUnderFighter
04-08-2012, 04:28 AM
There's just nothing about it that makes sense, it contradicts laws of physics. Just get a second 15, double your cone area, and your power handling and benefit from every angle. Or wire your sub to 4 ohms.

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 04:29 AM
There's just nothing about it that makes sense, it contradicts laws of physics. Just get a second 15, double your cone area, and your power handling and benefit from every angle. Or wire your sub to 4 ohms.
As said this single 15 is just the start I WILL be adding a second.

s_carter
04-08-2012, 04:31 AM
your not doing it right... Heres what you should be doing: take an infinite baffle sub, put it in 150+ cube box and give it at least 10 kw. Then it will be all good.

(Dedicated to my boy KW, RIP homie)

Bettr n' Revrse
04-08-2012, 04:38 AM
What I wanna know is who the hell made this design for you?

Imtjnotu
04-08-2012, 04:39 AM
What I wanna know is who the hell made this design for you?

who ever they are is 25 bucks richer laughing all the way to the bank lulz

Why So Cereal?
04-08-2012, 06:17 AM
What I wanna know is who the hell made this design for you?


who ever they are is 25 bucks richer laughing all the way to the bank lulz

Mobile enclosures....

Bettr n' Revrse
04-08-2012, 06:20 AM
Mobile enclosures....

What?!

Why So Cereal?
04-08-2012, 06:21 AM
What?!

My thoughts exactly....

Bettr n' Revrse
04-08-2012, 06:26 AM
My thoughts exactly....

Im really confused as to why he would design that?

Why So Cereal?
04-08-2012, 06:27 AM
Im really confused as to why he would design that?

Maybe he thought he was only running 300 rms to it.....

Bettr n' Revrse
04-08-2012, 06:31 AM
That would be the only thing i can think of

Kangaroux
04-08-2012, 08:05 AM
The box design itself, although it seems stupid, will actually perform REALLY well for lows and output (plenty of port area, large box for better low end + efficiency etc.) Now, if the OP plans on running a watt over 300w that thing is gonna bottom out. But if he keeps it around there he will be happy with it I think.

Moble Enclosurs
04-08-2012, 12:30 PM
Yes, it isn't really a smart thing to take woofers and go over their RMS rating when using boxes this big. That's the great thing about large enclosures, though. They get stupid loud, have a huge response window, and do it on less power than recommended boxes that are usually in the 3-4 cu. range.

Hey guys! I did run across this today and figured I would jump in and hopefully mellow out the concern here lol. So, the main issue noted is that this particular sub will be bottoming out in the design shown. Let me go over this for a minute......

First, as mentioned in the quote above, this is the reason why the design is the way it is, with respect to other factors that were requested. So, looking at the VVX15, you will see that the RMS values are around 600RMS. This is not a driver designed for SPL, though it can compete if you want it to. I want to first point out that I did notice the remarks and replies by the OP and I completely understand the concern and I am not upset about it at all. It just needs a little explanation.

SO, first, one thing I did notice is that the OP was talking about using 1600RMS. Though this is great to utilize more power to gain output, I highly recommend, and have recommended before, that this is not a good idea. As mentioned, the RMS value of the driver is only 600RMS, therefore a calculated voltage used was around 34V.
So, in the order form, it was typed that the driver will be seeing around 1000W. Though this is requested, I will never go over the recommended values of thermal limitations on any design, so 600W was used. And as the quote said above, which is a great point, this design is meant to utilize the drivers low wattage to obtain higher output from increased efficiency.

That is the first thing that has to be mentioned. Now, the OP had emailed me before about the things going on in here, and I looked it over and thought to myself, "They are just opinions and I cant really say anything about that". SO, I let it chill. But now, it is questioning my abilities as a professional acoustical engineer and business owner of a now-popular online company for this particular interest. SO, I have to say something now.

SO, as mentioned, you now know that this design was meant for lower power applications, and I advise that this is followed in any design that I create, unless it is meant for a high power handling, which will never exceed the peak limitations of a driver either.

Second, in the particular design, due to the low coupling of around 30Hz for lowest impedance, it must be noted that the control of the driver will be at stake around the mid30-high 30 range and below about 26Hz. But, at no time, due to using recommended voltage, will this bottom out if used correctly. At that point, it will, and I will consider it user error as it has been mentioned before that this is for high efficiency.
So, this sub will be safely operational in a free air environment of about 21V at its highest excursion point. So, anything above that will need to be compressed to increase that power handling to the recommended 600W(34V) input......and not to exceed that with the exception of the peak rating, which is still figured for in the design.

The thing that needs to be understood about compression in any design, is that as long as a moderate compression exists, there is an increased capability of the driver to operate above its recommendations....and in this case, as mentioned, it was used to increase the safe zone of about 220-250W in free air, to the recommended 600RMS compressed.

We all know that this is not a lot of power for a 15, if you have been around for a while, but if you can use it to increased efficiency, that 600W can in some cases outperform those of higher values, due to the known fact of the effects of increasing power in relation to dB levels.

Now, the mention of Hoffmans law was running about as well. There is a difference of sensitivity and efficiency, so in that respect, the two should not be confused either. SO, now that we have covered that the design is meant to give proper output for a 600WRMS rating, we now know, as expected, that this will be a lower powered design than it was made out to be, and for good reasons.

SO, two things need to be mentioned now that is important for all.
1. OP, do not run over the recommended values of the driver in any situation regardless of box volume. In a smaller box, you increase distortion and possibly decrease the life of the driver...in a larger box, you get overexcursion before any thermal problems will occur in most cases of a good quality built driver.
2. Those who have had their things to say, I cannot stop opinions, which they are seeing as you are not the ones with the information on the design. BUT, you are all right in a sense that the issues mentioned can and will occur if any limitation is purposely reached and challenged.

So, of those two things, we have gathered that no one is wrong about what is going on here. The OP has a highly efficient design that will allow him to use a lower power handling amplifier, which in case may save on money as well, for the same output curve (not SPL) as one with higher power handling. ANd two, that the concerns on here are in fact a part of reality, BUT bashing instead of questioning is not effective either.

From this point on, out of respect, since I have high respect for you all, please come to me if you have any concerns about a design. That would be appreciated and I will have no problem explaining it to you when I get the chance.

Epic0318
04-08-2012, 01:13 PM
I don't think people where questioning your skills. It was the info the OP was giving that made things so confusing.

-01limited-
04-08-2012, 03:25 PM
Mobile, op over and over and over said he was going to run 1600 rms to this thing in this big of a box. And as you can see by every reply we told him that box was not built to run that much power. He then chimes in all the time sayin you designed it so its going to be ok. Not one person in here was questioning you, but trying to stop him from destorying his equipment. He acted like you knew he was going to run 1600 to this in that size box and it was ok.

But like I said, if you re-read everyone is telling op he cant run that much power in that big of a box, and he replies with yes I can because a professional designed my box. Thats all there is to it. Obviously OP wasnt listening to a **** thing anyone was saying.

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:30 PM
Mobile, op over and over and over said he was going to run 1600 rms to this thing in this big of a box. And as you can see by every reply we told him that box was not built to run that much power. He then chimes in all the time sayin you designed it so its going to be ok. Not one person in here was questioning you, but trying to stop him from destorying his equipment. He acted like you knew he was going to run 1600 to this in that size box and it was ok.

But like I said, if you re-read everyone is telling op he cant run that much power in that big of a box, and he replies with yes I can because a professional designed my box. Thats all there is to it. Obviously OP wasnt listening to a **** thing anyone was saying.
In the "quote" I sent I included I'd be using the sk1500.1 at 1ohm, and I don't remember him saying anything about not running it higher than 600, so it was my fault for not understanding correctly thinking he said it would be fine...So now that the elephants out of the room no more discussion of the matter? :V

Lets just get ready for some "LOW POWERED" bass from a big *** box and a single 15!
:yumyum:

The_Grimy_One
04-08-2012, 03:31 PM
Run it at 4 ohms and you are good to go!

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:33 PM
Run it at 4 ohms and you are good to go!
Works, then if I do decide to come down from Cloud 9, I have a lot of room to upgrade to 1 ohm or even strap (with a new box of course)

-01limited-
04-08-2012, 03:39 PM
In the "quote" I sent I included I'd be using the sk1500.1 at 1ohm, and I don't remember him saying anything about not running it higher than 600, so it was my fault for not understanding correctly thinking he said it would be fine...So now that the elephants out of the room no more discussion of the matter? :V

Lets just get ready for some "LOW POWERED" bass from a big *** box and a single 15!
:yumyum:

I was just trying to help you out and you was an *** to everyone. There are the laws of physics involved and as you can see in the first few replies in this thread they were brought up. I run the same kind of system as you do. Big box/low power so I'm familiar with it. We was just trying to help you out in not destroying your equipment and you just blatantly ignored our advice.

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:41 PM
http://images.icanhascheezburger.com/completestore/2009/2/10/128787679814546366.jpg

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 03:57 PM
Think my wiring method will be okay?

-01limited-
04-08-2012, 04:08 PM
I mean it makes since you went ahead and made a big enclosure so you could add a second sub, but dont kill your first one too fast =) People have a hard time understanding you can run 300 watts in a big box, or 1600 in a small box and they will perform exactly the same. And also let this be a lesson that yeah, some of us may not be considered "professionals" but we still give good info.

TitoThePirate
04-08-2012, 04:09 PM
you need to have a new box designed/made
you're going to fry your equiptment if you don't listen.

TheUnderFighter
04-08-2012, 04:14 PM
I don't think people where questioning your skills. It was the info the OP was giving that made things so confusing.

^ yes

Imtjnotu
04-08-2012, 04:50 PM
To make it easier just add another skar 15 and that box. Will destroy lows

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 05:45 PM
To make it easier just add another skar 15 and that box. Will destroy lows

Yeah tj, thats the eventual plan since I know now 2 15s can fit, ill just low power run a until then. :V

Moble Enclosurs
04-08-2012, 08:47 PM
I don't think people where questioning your skills. It was the info the OP was giving that made things so confusing.

Oh I know. Its ok. Not feeling threatened at all. Just needed an explanation is all. And I do not believe we did discuss the idea of how much power will be used. As a designer, I will not use more power in a design than what the subs can handle even if you have an amplifier that can provide much more than the thermal limitations. In fact, having an amplifier that can provide more power is seen as a very good thing, because you can limit the potential for distortion by clipping.

SO, all in all, it is just a lesson learned, and a very good one at that. No harm no foul as long as the right amount of voltage is used. The way I see it as a designer is, With the increased efficiency, you will see the similar output as with a smaller design with needing more power, but with the added potential to exceed the output if adding drivers as mentioned. In this design, and most designs that use aeroports, this can be done(adding subs) without worrying much about the acoustical differences that will cause problems in other designs.
Funny thing is, for this exact reason, my EBAY items started as aeroport designs to minimize returns for those who plan to modify power and driver usage.

SO, again, no worries on my part. The design does exactly what it was made to do, but with the added ability to expand if wanted (not needed, just by personal preference).
It was merely a confusion on the obligation of the user, but by no means do I consider him stubborn or anything bad. The only thing that I can say on this is, he was a very great customer and gave me all the wonderful details I needed to finish the idea and was very communicative. I, as a professional, cannot ask for more. So, beyond the design is not something I can or will interfere with other than when it is needed. Yes, it should be assumed that the average user should know not to exceed RMS ratings, but for this I have a disclaimer lol. No seriously, I believe things will be good and if not, then all I can do from this point is to mention the reasons for misuse and advise against it in the future, but I will not judge. :D
Hope all is kewl now.

-01limited-
04-08-2012, 09:11 PM
I just dont see how a box can be designed without discussing how much power is going to be used. Its like you guys were on two totally different pages coming up with this.

RangerDangerV2
04-08-2012, 09:43 PM
I see a lot of bottoming out in your future... Heck the box for my 18 is only 5.75 cu net.... If you really want that big of a box I would think about adding 2 more spiders to your woofer to keep it from leaving the gap or be really conservative on the power....

Imtjnotu
04-08-2012, 09:51 PM
i wouldnt use more then 500 rms for now on that single sub

RangerDangerV2
04-08-2012, 09:58 PM
so let me get this right.... you want to throw 1500 watts to a vvx 15 in a box that is twice as big as it should be... first off that vvx will not take 1500 daily for long, I give it one day before its blown. and second off that big of a box with that low of a box will damage your driver.. the bottom of your vc will constantly be hitting the top plate and you will damage it pretty quickly... sounds like a waste to me. good luck though....

VisceralSound
04-08-2012, 11:47 PM
so let me get this right.... you want to throw 1500 watts to a vvx 15 in a box that is twice as big as it should be... first off that vvx will not take 1500 daily for long, I give it one day before its blown. and second off that big of a box with that low of a box will damage your driver.. the bottom of your vc will constantly be hitting the top plate and you will damage it pretty quickly... sounds like a waste to me. good luck though....

Ill come meet you for a demo :V And as recently said in pages, ill lower the rms until I get that second vvx.

Moble Enclosurs
04-09-2012, 12:08 AM
I just dont see how a box can be designed without discussing how much power is going to be used. Its like you guys were on two totally different pages coming up with this.

understood. Which is why I have two spots on my order form to give wattage information. The form I received only said 1000w and nothing else but 1ohm resistance wiring.
So, I was going to use 1000w, but noticed the sub is not capable of 1000rms, so I adjusted it to 600, which I was obligated to do. This was in the section of what the subs will take, not the section where amplifier specifics are needed. So I used the only information provided to me for power on the form and since that was too high, I couldn't use that because the subs do not take 1000, they take 600.
I would not design a box out of the power limits of the sub. That would be inaccurate and therefore make me responsible for any occurring damages. This whole 1600 thing was as new to me as it was to you.
But he did message me and is going to not exceed the voltage level of 600rms, which coinsides with the design as planned.
No confusion on my part.

Moble Enclosurs
04-09-2012, 12:21 AM
so let me get this right.... you want to throw 1500 watts to a vvx 15 in a box that is twice as big as it should be... first off that vvx will not take 1500 daily for long, I give it one day before its blown. and second off that big of a box with that low of a box will damage your driver.. the bottom of your vc will constantly be hitting the top plate and you will damage it pretty quickly... sounds like a waste to me. good luck though....

its not that the box is too big. In fact, the size of the enclosure is only part of the equation and is dependant on what kind of characteristics you are dealing with. The fact that these subs are low powered compared to the current market drivers of similar size today, tells me that a bigger box is required to maintain efficiency for a consistant output that is comparable to a smaller, higher powered design. In fact, most designs on the market do not use the proper volume and port requirements that will allow them to operate the best in due to the natural consensus of limited space enclosures geared towards the vehicle side of acoustics.
So, if I were to say anything about the size of the enclosure, I would say that they are limited naturally by dimension to make them fit.
Designed properly, a low frequency extended response is made to work best in open ended designs, which is why tlines are so popular and seem to be easier to gain a usable response in. What this does is no different than having a crosssectional area of the chamber equal to that of the port area with the differences of loading occurring.
The same applies to round ports when made large enough. So, to keep the extension and efficiency up on this design mainly due to low power abilities, the design accounts for boundary effects and uses the gain from the chamber to output it through the ports effectively with a certain degree of wanted or "controlled" excursion capabilities, almost like purposely allowing for more of it to maintain output.

So, before you say the enclosure is too big, read up on acoustics and what accompanies low frequency propagation with limited space requirements. Then you will know that if anything, the box is only big enough to allow for what is recommended so low power can be used to its advantage. It may only require a few hundred watts to get it to function within the vehicle with ample output.
And the effect of efficiency is one of the keys in reproduction since the beginning of audio. Hence why it is what it is today.

Moble Enclosurs
04-09-2012, 12:34 AM
You guys have to understand that we naturally limit our designs to make sure nothing occurs beyond our knowledge and capabilities of controlling. So, it will be a common thing for people to distance from a design that goes against nearly everything that they are used to. But you also have to realize, that as long as you use the subs within their range, that the size of the box is insignificant to control other than having be balanced between the effects of needed power vs wanted power.

Take a 5 ich sub and put it in a box built for a 12, and seal it up properly, and give it only the recommended power it is made to receive and if the box fits the mechanical characteristics of the driver, you may find that on a certain power level, if you close your eyes, you may not know the audible difference between that an the 12, if both operate effectively in the same enclosure. This is the effect of efficiency and what it can be capable of.

The other thing to note is this.....a physical design is a constant in its natural gain from the inner workings of the design, much like a room. So, you may note that putting different sealed boxes in a room will have similar response curves, given other things are similar. Much can be said to the similarities of an empty enclosure by adding drivers of similar character. So, box volume and physics have more to do with output than one might imagine, but the larger the box, hence allowing more a more coupled low frequency response in terms of being acoustically small or large compared to the response passband, the more capable it will be in reproducing the range of sub frequencies from natural gain.....to a point. And that "point" will not be reached in car audio. So, physical limitations will always exist in this field of acoustics.......so much that the actual recommendations of a true low frequency reproducible design will seem wrong.

RangerDangerV2
04-09-2012, 08:16 AM
Ill come meet you for a demo :V And as recently said in pages, ill lower the rms until I get that second vvx.

shakopee may 27th... canterbury park. Ill be competing there... I would like to see this.

VisceralSound
04-10-2012, 02:19 AM
Back on track

So after talking with Jason, I figured I would run my 15 @1ohms with the gain turned far enough down to match 500-600rms

If I properly sealed the trunk from the cabin what db range do you guys think an "average" system would get on daily? I know people try for the numberzz with tones at certain hz ranges, which tones do you use to actually find which works best in your car? I downloaded a torrent of a bunch of old school car audio cds, like Bassmechanic and others a while ago, should I just play the "30hertz tones" "50 hertz tones" etc etc until I find what? the tone that moves my car most?

*Bad explanation is bad*

The_Grimy_One
04-10-2012, 02:26 AM
Back on track

So after talking with Jason, I figured I would run my 15 @1ohms with the gain turned far enough down to match 500-600rms

If I properly sealed the trunk from the cabin what db range do you guys think an "average" system would get on daily? I know people try for the numberzz with tones at certain hz ranges, which tones do you use to actually find which works best in your car? I downloaded a torrent of a bunch of old school car audio cds, like Bassmechanic and others a while ago, should I just play the "30hertz tones" "50 hertz tones" etc etc until I find what? the tone that moves my car most?

*Bad explanation is bad*

I am assuming the sub is D2 correct? I would run the amp at 4 ohms if so. And just set gains accordingly. Wont push the sub too hard as long as you dont clip, and will send a much more efficient signal.

VisceralSound
04-10-2012, 02:28 AM
I am assuming the sub is D2 correct? I would run the amp at 4 ohms if so. And just set gains accordingly. Wont push the sub too hard as long as you dont clip, and will send a much more efficient signal.
With my 2v preouts on the HU wouldn't I have less distortion risk/clipping running at 1ohm vs 4 having to turn the 4ohms up a little further than the 1? or does that fall into play.

Bettr n' Revrse
04-10-2012, 02:28 AM
I see over excursion in your future lol


I see a lot of bottoming out in your future... Heck the box for my 18 is only 5.75 cu net.... If you really want that big of a box I would think about adding 2 more spiders to your woofer to keep it from leaving the gap or be really conservative on the power....

;)
http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m24la4jTLj1qbsbvb.jpg

VisceralSound
04-10-2012, 02:30 AM
;)
http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m24la4jTLj1qbsbvb.jpg

:crazy:

jaeguerra909
04-10-2012, 02:30 AM
Ull never kno how many dbs ill there's so many **** factors I thought I'd be doing a 150-151 when I did my.New build but.only did a 149.4

VisceralSound
04-10-2012, 02:32 AM
Ull never kno how many dbs ill there's so many **** factors I thought I'd be doing a 150-151 when I did my.New build but.only did a 149.4
Here in town we have an audio shop which I guess have a termlab so once my systems done I'll ask for a price on using it if its decent I'll give it a shot but I have no clue if I should lab it on daily songs since I don't care much for straight tones?

VisceralSound
04-11-2012, 11:43 PM
Got this **** in today have it somewhat installed with my Type R, once the VVX gets in I'll swap it out and mount it right but heres a picture of this beaut.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120411_172121.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120411_172228.jpg

VisceralSound
04-13-2012, 04:33 PM
Sub should hopefully be arriving tomorrow at some point!

:celebra:

SKAR-MaliBOOM
04-13-2012, 04:38 PM
Tuned in :)

VisceralSound
04-13-2012, 04:41 PM
Tuned in :)

Don't bother reading like pages 2-9 haha anyways thanks Ryan good to hear, I should be painting the box after this next check too and I'm working on trying to see if Toolmaker will make me a metal plate with SKAR Audio on it (like the size between the SK1500.1 and 4500.1 big enough to mount of my box and look cool.

SKAR-MaliBOOM
04-13-2012, 04:44 PM
That sounds like a pretty sick idea! Tuned in for sure!

VisceralSound
04-13-2012, 04:46 PM
That sounds like a pretty sick idea! Tuned in for sure!
Right on, will hopefully be able to update a picture/video of the VVX15 in its natural habitat tomorrow if not Sunday (IF UPS can friggin, deliver my sub tomorrow haha).
:thumbupw:

SkarAudio
04-13-2012, 04:49 PM
So I decided to give up pretty much my trunk to power a single vvx15 off of a single SK1500.1 (I have not gotten the VVX15 nor the amp due to the woofers being out of stock until the 5th and no monies for the amp yet)
Design (c) Mobile Enclosures.

3D: http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/ScreenShot2012-03-01at70915AM.png

Propped up (not all of it glued in at the time, but I DO have it pretty much done in my trunk, just need to wait for the 15" to come so I can finally put the lid on: http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/399228_10150874005827729_738522728_12783075_113397 059_n.jpg

*edit* Heres a photo of it in the car with the lid off, kind of hard to get a overhead view of it inside it and its a little bright:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/IMAG0108.jpg

I'll post some videos and more pictures of it with the lid off in the AM since its dark and raining right now.

Fantastic Job!

VisceralSound
04-13-2012, 04:52 PM
Fantastic Job!
Hah thanks kevin, I got my SK1500.1 last night and I really do enjoy it, I'm sure I can expect the same from the vvx15.

VisceralSound
04-14-2012, 01:15 PM
! Heck yeah, ill upload pictures when I get on my laptop but this biznatch is awesome.

DonH
04-14-2012, 02:07 PM
Box is waaaay to big. Designer fucked upbthinking thats going to work out well... One its not going to load well in your trunk, two trunk hatch is gona come way to close to the ports...

VisceralSound
04-14-2012, 02:23 PM
Trunk hatch close to the Ports? Ports are unloading into the cabin :s your a little late to that bandwagon though.

VisceralSound
04-14-2012, 09:58 PM
Build is finished!

All that needs to be done in final sealing with Caulk/Liquid nails wood glue and some black spray paint in the future, but everythings wired up and in, sounds great on a short run of 'roux's Yeah-Usher remix.

Thank you SkarAudio and Jason Moble Enclosurs

RangerDangerV2
04-14-2012, 10:00 PM
vids??

VisceralSound
04-14-2012, 10:26 PM
Yeah its 930pm (as you know) neighbors n all. And my phone ***** for doing audible bass, but ill try and get one, gorilla Zoe? Young Jeezy? suggestions?

RangerDangerV2
04-14-2012, 10:27 PM
juice box to start then switch to hoods run down...

VisceralSound
04-14-2012, 10:30 PM
juice box to start then switch to hoods run down...

Lol the 12hz hood run down remix? Dont feel like pounding it THAT hard being 1night old.
But decaf juice box sounds like a plan.

Kangaroux
04-14-2012, 10:32 PM
How low can this thing play? Try my faded remix, that's in the low 20's.

av83
04-14-2012, 10:34 PM
hoods run down chopped & scrizzewed!

VisceralSound
04-14-2012, 10:41 PM
How low can this thing play? Try my faded remix, that's in the low 20's.

Ill look, I liked your ushr, and camera phone remixes too.

VisceralSound
04-14-2012, 11:04 PM
Would applying caulk with wood grade liquid nails and left to dry adequately seal the gaps?

VisceralSound
04-15-2012, 03:09 AM
Minor thinks will be added/removed here (like painting) but here we go!
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120415_011904.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120415_011815.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120415_011807.jpg
I just got done Wood grade liquid nailing the gaps within the top of the box so I'm hoping when I let it cure over night it will be sealed somewhat, if not theres more where that came from :D I will TRY and get videos in the AM after the fiances lunch, note my phones video seems to **** with bass but I'll try and get a recording where its an even mix. Stay tuned.

VisceralSound
04-16-2012, 11:10 PM
Heres a really crappy video (didn't know a video mail recorded in 240p) but this video was just to show how the seal cracked from the top vibrating (tomorrow) I will be messing with more sheet metal so I can slide the box forward just enough to fit the woofer through clean to drill the top of the box down.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1mCajq_lyI&feature=g-upl&context=G291f351AUAAAAAAAAAA

Still in the testing phase and video quality ***** due to recording from my phone :/

VisceralSound
04-19-2012, 12:39 AM
Next on the agenda is getting it metered, my local audio shop will let me use their termlab for $30/.5hr, not sure what should I use to best meter this thing? I know since its a huge box I won't get huge numbers but certain frequencies are louder than others, I guess its finding the best freq. For my car.

Chriszle
04-19-2012, 12:52 AM
Do a few sine sweeps to find your peak with that setup. Once you get it narrowed down, burp individual frequencies.

plantinseeds
04-19-2012, 01:18 AM
Got the chance to hear the box + sub in person... and I've got to say I am definitely impressed with how it sounds.

Hits the lows perfectly and sounds very clean.

Makes me want to upgrade to 2 VVX12's and a Skar1500 haha

VisceralSound
04-19-2012, 03:46 AM
Do a few sine sweeps to find your peak with that setup. Once you get it narrowed down, burp individual frequencies.
Should the sine sweeps be on full tilt?

Moble Enclosurs
04-19-2012, 11:09 PM
Got the chance to hear the box + sub in person... and I've got to say I am definitely impressed with how it sounds.

Hits the lows perfectly and sounds very clean.

Makes me want to upgrade to 2 VVX12's and a Skar1500 haha

Hey, Im glad you got the chance to get a demo of it. I have been talking to Visualhype during the entire process and I am very glad he had the chance to finally get some info for you guys. Hopefully it will put some things into perspective for a few people on here.......
As long as voltage is not exceeded, it will do just fine as it is.

Moble Enclosurs
04-19-2012, 11:12 PM
Should the sine sweeps be on full tilt?

No, gradually work them up to the same voltage level as the limits of the design as it should be done. Sine sweeps and tones are usually a higher level recording than music records, so it may need to be lowered a bit on volume for those. Again, increase it gradually until peak voltage is hit. Anyone should be doing this, not just you. If you do sine signals on full tilt, you may end up distorting or damaging some things if it is not meant to handle it. Depends on the equipment and design all together.

plantinseeds
04-19-2012, 11:23 PM
No, gradually work them up to the same voltage level as the limits of the design as it should be done. Sine sweeps and tones are usually a higher level recording than music records, so it may need to be lowered a bit on volume for those. Again, increase it gradually until peak voltage is hit. Anyone should be doing this, not just you. If you do sine signals on full tilt, you may end up distorting or damaging some things if it is not meant to handle it. Depends on the equipment and design all together.

BTW, the box for my two 12 inch Type R's you designed for me turned out great :) I messed up on a couple aspects of the build such as the port supports and the second layer of MDF on the top (because I didn't have enough room in my trunk for two layers) but I am super satisfied with how it turned out and how much better the lows sound vs. using the prefabricated box I had before. Unfortunately my amp fried so I will have to wait a bit longer to pick up a new one :/ Anyways thanks alot Jason for the design! I will definitely recommend you to everyone I know that is in need of a box/design.

Moble Enclosurs
04-19-2012, 11:37 PM
BTW, the box for my two 12 inch Type R's you designed for me turned out great :) I messed up on a couple aspects of the build such as the port supports and the second layer of MDF on the top (because I didn't have enough room in my trunk for two layers) but I am super satisfied with how it turned out and how much better the lows sound vs. using the prefabricated box I had before. Unfortunately my amp fried so I will have to wait a bit longer to pick up a new one :/ Anyways thanks alot Jason for the design! I will definitely recommend you to everyone I know that is in need of a box/design.

Thanks Jack! Glad you like it and thank you for your great communication during the process as well! Let me know if you ever have any questions in the future! Anthony, get a better video up here too! lol. j/k man. Thanks for the updates and everything you have done for me also!

VisceralSound
04-20-2012, 12:04 AM
Thanks Jack! Glad you like it and thank you for your great communication during the process as well! Let me know if you ever have any questions in the future! Anthony, get a better video up here too! lol. j/k man. Thanks for the updates and everything you have done for me also!
No problem dood, im working on finding a legit recording device and the best song to demo every aspect of my box!

Moble Enclosurs
04-20-2012, 01:38 AM
Word lol

VisceralSound
04-20-2012, 04:39 AM
Would truck bed liner help like "stiffen" up the box like a form of bracing (not fully using it as a brace) but if I sprayed it on the box would it make it more solid?

Bettr n' Revrse
04-20-2012, 04:46 AM
Would truck bed liner help like "stiffen" up the box like a form of bracing (not fully using it as a brace) but if I sprayed it on the box would it make it more solid?

Not really...

VisceralSound
04-20-2012, 02:01 PM
Not really...

I was just wondering for the fact of when I have it on full tilt looking into the trunk I get an odd wood sound, but theres no air leaking, maybe I need to screw it in some more with more screws. Once I get the second if etc etc ill pole brace it between the woofers.

VisceralSound
04-21-2012, 11:51 PM
Just to kind of update, im going to be looking into getting some expanding foam or related to seal my trunk from cabin, any recommendations would be cool too.

VisceralSound
04-22-2012, 02:20 AM
So I've sealed most of the cracks with expanding foam so far so good (minus filling the rear deck yet and the side with my power wires running through) The spare tire well I forgot to put the tire and top back on when building the box in my trunk, would not covering this with wood/plastic/foam etc hurt any output?
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120422_011053.jpg

VisceralSound
04-23-2012, 02:13 AM
Just kind of showing the foam idea, the boxes face is really ugly (right now) once it all cures etc I'll shave it off and paint the box all black again.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120423_005846.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120423_005912.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120423_005919.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120423_005927.jpg

Imtjnotu
04-23-2012, 02:21 AM
so u jus thave ur port firing into the cabin?.....dude wtf are u doing

VisceralSound
04-23-2012, 02:23 AM
so u jus thave ur port firing into the cabin?.....dude wtf are u doing
Thats whats been discussed somewhere near the start of the thread :V
whutrudoin

VisceralSound
04-23-2012, 02:25 AM
Also, it does sound very awesome even if its cabin firing, accurate and loud.

VisceralSound
04-23-2012, 10:54 PM
So I'm not 100% on the sound quality on these videos since I haven't listened to them but watching them it looks alright:
I think the box needs some further bracing or something haha.
Skar Audio VVX15 demo - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmC-nLjBV24)
then after to do a lower song.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDd9nVcTXLY

VisceralSound
04-23-2012, 10:58 PM
SkarAudio
MaliBOOM

chillin
04-23-2012, 11:12 PM
How does your box keep growing? It started as 8 cubes, we then established back on page 3 or 4 that it was actually less with the dims you gave, then on you tube, you say it's 9.8 cubes. I don't think box size increases e-peen, but i could be wrong.

It does look to be putting out some bass though.

VisceralSound
04-23-2012, 11:16 PM
How does your box keep growing? It started as 8 cubes, we then established back on page 3 or 4 that it was actually less with the dims you gave, then on you tube, you say it's 9.8 cubes. I don't think box size increases e-peen, but i could be wrong.
I thought it was 8 cft when I posted the thread then Page3-4 whatever it was said it was like 7.<__> but I think when I messaged Jason sometime ago in emails it was bigger? I'll triple check again >:|

murph
04-23-2012, 11:25 PM
Wangin hard

VisceralSound
04-23-2012, 11:45 PM
Wangin hard
Thank you!

mazdakid
04-24-2012, 12:02 AM
Why seal the sub into the trunk with foam?

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 12:29 AM
Why seal the sub into the trunk with foam?

Since its cabin firing, its to make sure no pressure goes backwards, thus losing output.

chillin
04-24-2012, 12:36 AM
Is the sub still firing into the cabin with the ports, or just the ports and the sub is completely sealed away? I can't tell from the vid.

kushy_dreams
04-24-2012, 12:38 AM
So by foaming off the trunk like you did, wouldn't you be seperating the front wave from the rear wave of the cone and the port is just producing the rear wave?

wheres audioholic or keep_hope_alive

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 12:38 AM
Sub is up, so its in the trunk, Ports are only cabin firing.

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 12:39 AM
So by foaming off the trunk like you did, wouldn't you be seperating the front wave from the rear wave of the cone and the port is just producing the rear wave?

wheres audioholic lol

If needed I can fix it, but sounds great right now so :shrug:

chillin
04-24-2012, 12:41 AM
So by foaming off the trunk like you did, wouldn't you be seperating the front wave from the rear wave of the cone and the port is just producing the rear wave?

wheres audioholic or keep_hope_alive
Thats what i was thinking. I think you are supposed to foam it off from the sub back. Pretty sure the point of the port is to join front and back waves from the sub and join them.

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 12:47 AM
Thats what i was thinking. I think you are supposed to foam it off from the sub back. Pretty sure the point of the port is to join front and back waves from the sub and join them.

Once others chime in I can peal the half up and refoam

>>SQL<<
04-24-2012, 12:55 AM
I will chime in, you want the port and sub to fire into the same area.
Right now what I see is nothing more than a large sealed box.
You are doing it wrong.
I am sorry, I like your gumption (go for it attitude) but you are doing it wrong you want the port and subs to join together to increase output.
Seriously I would tear it all out and start over.

Imtjnotu
04-24-2012, 12:55 AM
Just sell them and go to 2 12" skars with the subs and port both firing into the cabin and seal it off... Will probably get louder then how you have it now

keep_hope_alive
04-24-2012, 01:00 AM
thanks for the mention. i can't read every thread. :)

i need to get up to speed with the build and what you are trying to achieve...

keep_hope_alive
04-24-2012, 01:11 AM
ok, so you have two massive ports firing forward, and the sub firing up. from the latest pics i don't see a massive hole in the rear deck that corresponds with the woofer.

none if this is a dig, just trying to be informative. maybe you stick with what you have, maybe you start over. i start over every year or two, just to keep things interesting. :)

you want the front wave from the sub to combine coherently (constructive interference) with the rear wave after it travels through the port. for that to happen you need both pathlengths to be free from obstruction and to make sense at the measurement location. hell, you can calc each path fairly easy. then you can determine what frequencies will constructively add and what frequencies will destructively cancel.

the purpose of the obscene amount of expanding foam is to minimize leaks into the trunk. SPL requires controlling (and minimizing/eliminating) leaks in the cabin. doing so is quite the chore as the entire cabin is leaky (doors, door seals, firewall penetraions, A/C, speakers, etc.)

What we can't clearly see is the path for sound from the woofer cone. it seems to be buried under the rear deck. you're losing substantial output by not having the front of the woofer cone firing clearly into the cabin, and having it sealed around that. when people do what you are trying to do - they remove a portion (or most) of the rear deck. that is 100x more difficult now that you've foamed the box in place. regardless, you want to open that back up. by removing the rear deck panel and carefully removing the metal above the sub, then building up around the sub (MDF blocks) and then sealing that, then recovering the rear deck (after stiffening the hell out of it) you should be ok. note that removing the rear glass will make this process MUCH easier.

you also want the ability to remove a sub at will without destroying the box in the process. i'm not sure how you do that with your current configuration. opening up the rear deck will let you do that. your biggest challenge is doing all of this without damaging the sub it the process.

if it were me: the entire rear seat/deck would be gone, trunk lid torsion bars gone, new bracing welded in for vehicle safety, strength, and stability, the upholstry would be out, the new enclosure would be glassed to the vehicle (no foam), all remaining panels would be stiffened, new coverings would be added (to match factory upholstry without being soft cushions), and you would clearly see both the woofer cone and ports at the same time from anywhere in the cabin. a fake seat cover could be made out of expanded metal covered in a thin open-wave fabric if you wanted the illusion of a factory-ish vehicle. further, the distance from cone to mic and port to mic (plus port travel) would coordinate with my anticipated/calculated/modeled SPL peak. not saying that is the right thing to do, that's just what i would do.

my $.02 based on the limited amount of information i have been able to view in a few minutes.

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 01:29 AM
ok, so you have two massive ports firing forward, and the sub firing up. from the latest pics i don't see a massive hole in the rear deck that corresponds with the woofer.

none if this is a dig, just trying to be informative. maybe you stick with what you have, maybe you start over. i start over every year or two, just to keep things interesting. :)

you want the front wave from the sub to combine coherently (constructive interference) with the rear wave after it travels through the port. for that to happen you need both pathlengths to be free from obstruction and to make sense at the measurement location. hell, you can calc each path fairly easy. then you can determine what frequencies will constructively add and what frequencies will destructively cancel.

the purpose of the obscene amount of expanding foam is to minimize leaks into the trunk. SPL requires controlling (and minimizing/eliminating) leaks in the cabin. doing so is quite the chore as the entire cabin is leaky (doors, door seals, firewall penetraions, A/C, speakers, etc.)

What we can't clearly see is the path for sound from the woofer cone. it seems to be buried under the rear deck. you're losing substantial output by not having the front of the woofer cone firing clearly into the cabin, and having it sealed around that. when people do what you are trying to do - they remove a portion (or most) of the rear deck. that is 100x more difficult now that you've foamed the box in place. regardless, you want to open that back up. by removing the rear deck panel and carefully removing the metal above the sub, then building up around the sub (MDF blocks) and then sealing that, then recovering the rear deck (after stiffening the hell out of it) you should be ok. note that removing the rear glass will make this process MUCH easier.

you also want the ability to remove a sub at will without destroying the box in the process. i'm not sure how you do that with your current configuration. opening up the rear deck will let you do that. your biggest challenge is doing all of this without damaging the sub it the process.

if it were me: the entire rear seat/deck would be gone, trunk lid torsion bars gone, new bracing welded in for vehicle safety, strength, and stability, the upholstry would be out, the new enclosure would be glassed to the vehicle (no foam), all remaining panels would be stiffened, new coverings would be added (to match factory upholstry without being soft cushions), and you would clearly see both the woofer cone and ports at the same time from anywhere in the cabin. a fake seat cover could be made out of expanded metal covered in a thin open-wave fabric if you wanted the illusion of a factory-ish vehicle. further, the distance from cone to mic and port to mic (plus port travel) would coordinate with my anticipated/calculated/modeled SPL peak. not saying that is the right thing to do, that's just what i would do.

my $.02 based on the limited amount of information i have been able to view in a few minutes.
IIRC the woofers cone is just under my passenger rear deck speakers (I've removed my rear fill speakers) if it is theres still a path to the trunk, but if its not then its still sealed, I'll look into some of the ideas for solutions, if anything right now I'll keep the box I have now and try and work a solution with what I have, as you said keep_hope_alive I had my previous system for a little over a year and wanted a change.

murph
04-24-2012, 01:38 AM
Blow through where the rear deck is would really do this wonders. If not already done, I would cut any carpeting that would have been where your rear speakers were to get the best results you can.

keep_hope_alive
04-24-2012, 01:41 AM
i figured you had the rear speakers removed, but you are losing output to the trunk without the seal around the woofer as well. you know the next step. have fun!

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 01:51 AM
Blow through where the rear deck is would really do this wonders. If not already done, I would cut any carpeting that would have been where your rear speakers were to get the best results you can.
If what you mean by the carpet where the speakers would be, there is only a plastic grill covering the area that's removable.

i figured you had the rear speakers removed, but you are losing output to the trunk without the seal around the woofer as well. you know the next step. have fun!
(Doing the least amount of welding/sheet metal cutting) would you suggest I do a foam seal from the sub back? (moving the seal past the subwoofer)

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 01:53 AM
So far, does it sound okay? to me it sounded good, its not like its 100% perfect quality due to being my cellphone.

murph
04-24-2012, 01:56 AM
So far, does it sound okay? to me it sounded good, its not like its 100% perfect quality due to being my cellphone.

It sounds great but as said if utilized properly the sub and future subs will really wang.

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 01:58 AM
It sounds great but as said if utilized properly the sub and future subs will really wang.

Right on, I'm just not wanting to get rid of the rear fill sheet metal (under the window) so if moving the seal further up(past the speaker openings) will work then I'd ideally like to do that.

keep_hope_alive
04-24-2012, 02:06 AM
i don't like/don't use expanding foam. too messy. you don't want it anywhere near you sub. if that gets on the surround the sub will be a goner.

short answer - yes, if you seal around the entire top of the box to the rear deck, it should help. but you do want to open up the pathway through the rear deck.

just remove the factory cover, remove metal, seal around sub/opening, cover with expanded metal, cover with matching open-weave carpet, done. :)

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 02:13 AM
i don't like/don't use expanding foam. too messy. you don't want it anywhere near you sub. if that gets on the surround the sub will be a goner.

short answer - yes, if you seal around the entire top of the box to the rear deck, it should help. but you do want to open up the pathway through the rear deck.

just remove the factory cover, remove metal, seal around sub/opening, cover with expanded metal, cover with matching open-weave carpet, done. :)
Will do! I'll play around some more and see what I can do, thanks!

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 02:15 AM
keep_hope_alive
On page 13 what do you think of both videos I linked for sound wise? (minus the current issue)

keep_hope_alive
04-24-2012, 02:22 AM
cannot view videos at work (yes, i dropped in to scan a few drawings, started surfing, need to go home).

unless you used a calibrated measurement mic instead of a camera mic, i'm not sure what the videos will tell me...

VisceralSound
04-24-2012, 02:24 AM
cannot view videos at work (yes, i dropped in to scan a few drawings, started surfing, need to go home).

unless you used a calibrated measurement mic instead of a camera mic, i'm not sure what the videos will tell me...

lol no, just a 1080p recording off my phone, I'm not fancy with an spl meter or anything like that, I am planning on metering it sometime soon though so the better adjusted this build is the better thanks for the help to you and the others minus the trolls.

VisceralSound
04-25-2012, 02:06 AM
keep_hope_alive
with it sealed within the cabin (which it already was I guess since the trunk wasn't 100% sealed since you could see the sub through the speaker hole) would this hole be adequate enough for the cone issue? or could I drill more holes in the sheet metal (minus damaging the carpet)
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120424_182405.jpg

And I'll be uploading another video of some music with (Decaf) Gucci Mane - what u know bought me, it sounds pretty beast

keep_hope_alive
04-25-2012, 09:06 AM
it is good you can see the cone, but you're still losing energy to the trunk. i would want a 16" dia hole above the sub with trunk airspace sealed off. sealed in the cabin means neither cone nor port air can make it to the trunk. if you wall off around the box, tight to the rear deck on all 3 sides, you can get close enough and leave the rear deck as-is.

that may not be possible with your trunk arrangement.

murph
04-25-2012, 09:12 AM
Take the expanding foam and put a wall of it around the backside of the box so air escapes from a smaller area. When you open your trunk you don't want to be able to see the subwoofer.

mazdakid
04-25-2012, 09:28 AM
Your sub wont fit on the front next to the ports?

VisceralSound
04-25-2012, 10:42 AM
Your sub wont fit on the front next to the ports?

Not really, I've got about 15" between the left wall and the closest port opening, after a few months or a year or so I may rebuild the box into something different, maybe worm out 2 15's, for now I'll work on fine tuning it to the best that I can without too ma.y body mods, maybe later I'll cut out the rear deck, thanks keep_hope_alive for the help.

SKAR-MaliBOOM
04-25-2012, 11:26 AM
They are right....it's like half assin right now how it is.

How you did works in 4th orders because the sub fires into the box and then out the port.

You will need the sub and port firing into the cabin :) In your case

VisceralSound
04-25-2012, 08:59 PM
Bizzump, got another video recorded
Decaf Gucci Mane - what u know bought me - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbXS1WFmhCg)

Buck
04-25-2012, 09:00 PM
So, how does this box sound?

VisceralSound
04-25-2012, 09:02 PM
So, how does this box sound?

Amazing, as the post above you, you can see some mirror flex and what not but I really enjoy how this box sounds for its size, no bottoming out either.

Volvowith18psi
04-26-2012, 01:17 AM
Nice vids, quick thought: I have the same head-unit in my ride and noticed you are turning it up to 28 or so. Not that I know much different, however, I had mine tuned with a DD-1 and CC-1 and it was full clipped at/past 26 w/ the USB port, just fyi if it helps any....

VisceralSound
04-26-2012, 01:22 AM
Nice vids, quick thought: I have the same head-unit in my ride and noticed you are turning it up to 28 or so. Not that I know much different, however, I had mine tuned with a DD-1 and CC-1 and it was full clipped at/past 26 w/ the USB port, just fyi if it helps any....

See, I can't recall what made me go up to 28 but yes thank you for your input, I actually used to run it on 25/35 haha but so far 28/35 has caused me to issues but I'll keep that in mind from now on, thank you :) and thank you for watching my nooby videos

murph
04-26-2012, 01:29 AM
For how it is setup that box still really shines great video.

VisceralSound
04-26-2012, 01:30 AM
For how it is setup that box still really shines great video.
Thanks Murph I might take a video of the slowed La Roux - In for the kill that shits loud and low on it.

VisceralSound
05-03-2012, 01:02 AM
Just found a photo of this done on facebook by a certain someone, (with how my box turned out I might just wait until my rebuild to mount it) but heres a preview of what I had him make, its the first of the new material hes trying (Black Anodized Aluminum)
12x24
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/485645_291567660929624_100002291763765_641879_3351 95172_n.jpg

VisceralSound
05-19-2012, 02:52 PM
Just a little update, Toolmakerz has shipped my dual inputs and the original idea for his latest makings of the 14x24 SKAR Audio black Aluminum plate to be mounted on my box; Also ordered my Big 3 from Coleman at AudioTechnix can't wait for that. All of this will be done before this next weekends show AudioDesigns in Winona.

VisceralSound
05-22-2012, 01:06 AM
Installed a Stinger volt meter
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120521_211028.jpg

And got my sick *** dual inputs from Toolmakerz
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120521_211058.jpg

Now I'm just waiting on my custom 14x24 SKAR Audio plate to arrive maybe tomorrow.

VisceralSound
05-22-2012, 04:17 PM
This thing is so cool; custom 14x24 SKAR Audio black anodized aluminum plate (first one I sent to him of the idea, hes done some other brands using this idea so that pretty cool)
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/tarukogfx/20120522_150256.jpg
SkarAudio
MaliBOOM
Moble Enclosurs

SourDeez
05-22-2012, 04:18 PM
Whats that plate for?

VisceralSound
05-22-2012, 04:23 PM
Whats that plate for?
Mount on the box for aesthetic, or I'll find a way to when I pull my seats down have it mounted diagonally, got some options.

SourDeez
05-22-2012, 04:27 PM
cool cool.. the seat thing would be tight.

I thought it was a license plate, then i noticed the sink behind it.

VisceralSound
05-22-2012, 04:32 PM
cool cool.. the seat thing would be tight.

I thought it was a license plate, then i noticed the sink behind it.

Heck yeah dude, I might still snag a skar plate for my front bumper.

But I wanted it to be something different and new that not many people have done from him before so why not 14x24.

SourDeez
05-22-2012, 04:35 PM
Heck yeah dude, I might still snag a skar plate for my front bumper.

meh.. illegal unfortunately..

**** MN and their tint/car laws.

It's all about profiling anyway. I had a stock base model dakota from Cali so it never even had a front liscense bracket or plate, never once got pulled over for it.. I got pulled over for other stuff but they never even mentioned it.

On the other hand, my roommate had a custom 350z (modded, loud, tint, rims, etc) no front plate and he got pulled over weekly for no front plate.

VisceralSound
05-22-2012, 04:50 PM
meh.. illegal unfortunately..

**** MN and their tint/car laws.

It's all about profiling anyway. I had a stock base model dakota from Cali so it never even had a front liscense bracket or plate, never once got pulled over for it.. I got pulled over for other stuff but they never even mentioned it.

On the other hand, my roommate had a custom 350z (modded, loud, tint, rims, etc) no front plate and he got pulled over weekly for no front plate.

Im in a goldish/tan Malibu I think I'll be fine, yeah screw MN law thats dumb but I see plenty without.

VisceralSound
05-27-2012, 02:16 AM
So with some ****** electrical (no big 3, stock interstate battery, stock 105a alt) on highest I'll go JUST a hair under clipping I got 135db @35hz (probably higher it was just a rough measurement) the box is more so musical and isn't a straight numbers box (atleast not with the electrical, I be droppin high 11's haha) but I'm only in the 11's if I do straight full tilt tones, not so much music.

Rebuild to come after getting a demo of Anton's new Z's and Jamie of Team Minnesota's loudest's Cobalt loud systems are loud!

kushy_dreams
05-27-2012, 05:29 AM
What kind of meter? where was it placed at? tone or music?

VisceralSound
05-27-2012, 01:21 PM
What kind of meter? where was it placed at? tone or music?

I'm not sure on the meter I'll ask the guy, he wen't back to Chicago, sealed on the dash, 35hz tone.

kushy_dreams
05-27-2012, 03:50 PM
I'm not sure on the meter I'll ask the guy, he wen't back to Chicago, sealed on the dash, 35hz tone.

Even with as bad of voltage drop as you are experiencing, you're score should be way closer to 140 with the equipment that you have.

murph
05-27-2012, 03:57 PM
Was that score sealed? If not I am very confused.

RAM_Designs
05-27-2012, 03:59 PM
Was that score sealed? If not I am very confused.

Yes, sealed on the dash.

VisceralSound
05-27-2012, 07:06 PM
It was probably a crappy meter ill see if I cant rent a term lab here in town.

RAM_Designs
05-27-2012, 07:07 PM
It was probably a crappy meter ill see if I cant rent a term lab here in town.

The crappy meter is going to meter higher than a TL, in most cases. Usually a TL is the hardest to get a good score on, because it's actually accurate when calibrated correctly.

VisceralSound
05-27-2012, 07:23 PM
The crappy meter is going to meter higher than a TL, in most cases. Usually a TL is the hardest to get a good score on, because it's actually accurate when calibrated correctly.
Yeah, I thought id score higher tol, it was rainy/wet out does that matter.

VisceralSound
05-28-2012, 10:48 PM
The crappy meter is going to meter higher than a TL, in most cases. Usually a TL is the hardest to get a good score on, because it's actually accurate when calibrated correctly.

Guy said he used his usb SPL Meter.

plantinseeds
05-29-2012, 12:38 AM
Guy said he used his usb SPL Meter.

How much would it cost to rent a termlab from Custom Concepts?

I'm interested in seeing what numbers my SA12's can hit.

Would've been cool to go to the show in 'Nona, but I worked all fuggin weekend haha

Imtjnotu
05-29-2012, 12:51 AM
damnn that score blows

VisceralSound
05-29-2012, 01:16 AM
How much would it cost to rent a termlab from Custom Concepts?

I'm interested in seeing what numbers my SA12's can hit.

Would've been cool to go to the show in 'Nona, but I worked all fuggin weekend haha
$30/half hour

damnn that score blows
You're telling me bro, I'll be adding a second VVX15 then adding another SK1500.1 strapped.

RAM_Designs
05-29-2012, 02:07 AM
damnn that score blows

Lol, tell us what you really think TJ.

jolly_26
05-29-2012, 02:49 AM
You're telling me bro, I'll be adding a second VVX15 then adding another SK1500.1 strapped.

I'm really not sure you'll need that extra SK1500.1. With even 1000rms each they'll be fairly close to their limits surely? Giving them more sounds like a recipe for disaster. Could throw an 18 in that box, considered that? :)

VisceralSound
05-29-2012, 02:54 AM
I'm really not sure you'll need that extra SK1500.1. With even 1000rms each they'll be fairly close to their limits surely? Giving them more sounds like a recipe for disaster. Could throw an 18 in that box, considered that? :)
On the 1680 @1ohm before rise this subwoofer takes it like a champ, I wouldn't be surprised if both subwoofers could take 2 SK1500.1's.
Plus SKAR has yet to release their 18" (once the 1500watt line is released there will be)

jolly_26
05-29-2012, 03:05 AM
On the 1680 @1ohm before rise this subwoofer takes it like a champ, I wouldn't be surprised if both subwoofers could take 2 SK1500.1's.
Plus SKAR has yet to release their 18" (once the 1500watt line is released there will be)

didn't realised you had this gained to take the full power of that SK1500! That's awesome man, would not have expected that, especially in a box of this size. In that case by all means throw another amp on two 15s.

VisceralSound
05-29-2012, 03:07 AM
didn't realised you had this gained to take the full power of that SK1500! That's awesome man, would not have expected that, especially in a box of this size. In that case by all means throw another amp on two 15s.

Well there was some discussion of it being too much power/bottoming out/unloading etc, well on full tilt, there is no sounds of bottoming out, nor any mechanical noises, subwoofer does not get warm at all, no smells etc.

We'll see where this goes after adding that second 15, then after that snag a second SK1500.1 should be quiet.

jolly_26
05-29-2012, 03:18 AM
Well there was some discussion of it being too much power/bottoming out/unloading etc, well on full tilt, there is no sounds of bottoming out, nor any mechanical noises, subwoofer does not get warm at all, no smells etc.

We'll see where this goes after adding that second 15, then after that snag a second SK1500.1 should be quiet.

That's ideal hahaha. Can't get my head around that meter reading then, needs to go on a TL for sure.

VisceralSound
05-29-2012, 03:22 AM
That's ideal hahaha. Can't get my head around that meter reading then, needs to go on a TL for sure.
Yep, I'll post some more results in the future.

VisceralSound
05-29-2012, 12:32 PM
So by ear I can already hear a difference in that 35hz tone from Saturday and today (Saturday we had rain so that might have been the issue) I also put 1/0 AudioTechnix OFC wire from my negative to the strut bolt in my car, I'll be doing the engine block and + of the alternator this coming weekend and my voltage is already slightly better.

kushy_dreams
05-29-2012, 02:00 PM
Guy said he used his usb SPL Meter.

Do you mean SPL Lab meter? Those are pretty accurate, they have been tested to be within +/- .1 to dead on with a TL.

That setup should have over a 140 in it, I did 135 sealed on the dash around 45-50hz with an mtx thunder 8000 15 on 500rms before box rise with a box tuned to 31.5hz.

VisceralSound
05-29-2012, 02:11 PM
Do you mean SPL Lab meter? Those are pretty accurate, they have been tested to be within +/- .1 to dead on with a TL.

That setup should have over a 140 in it, I did 135 sealed on the dash around 45-50hz with an mtx thunder 8000 15 on 500rms before box rise with a box tuned to 31.5hz.

IIRC he just said USB spl meter, ill text him and triple check, as I said earlier its a lot louder today than Saturday.

VisceralSound
05-29-2012, 05:08 PM
[QUOTE=kushy_dreams;8044635]Do you mean SPL Lab meter? Those are pretty accurate, they have been tested to be within +/- .1 to dead on with a TL.

That setup should have over a 140 in it, I did 135 sealed on the dash around 45-50hz with an mtx thunder 8000 15 on 500rms before box rise with a box tuned to 31.5hz.[/QUOTE

He said it was indeed an spl lab USB meter, im currently working with mobile to fix the numbers issue at hand, we'll see where this goes!

Keep checking back people.

VisceralSound
06-02-2012, 10:54 PM
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/301817_10151160245127729_107526411_n.jpg
Of the 3 or 4 people who did Real SPL I got second place, not too shabby for my first competition ever, scores nothing to REALLY right home about, IIRC I got 137+/- @30hz 142+/- @40hz 131 @50hz and 137.9 @35hz with an average of like 135 or so. meh still needs work for what I HAVEN'T done to it yet.

mazdakid
06-02-2012, 11:27 PM
What did you change for the higher score?

VisceralSound
06-03-2012, 01:18 AM
What did you change for the higher score?
Compared to the low one I posted earlier? nothing lol, just 1 AudioTechnix 1/0 wire from the negative terminal of my battery to my strut tower :|

kushy_dreams
06-03-2012, 04:50 AM
Were the scores on music or tones?

CAT MAN
06-03-2012, 05:30 AM
Yes, sealed on the dash.he should be around a 38-39 sealed

mazdakid
06-03-2012, 07:40 AM
Unless you have his same car and setup you cant really say what he should atleast be hitting.

VisceralSound
06-03-2012, 09:54 AM
True that, it was on 30, 40 50 and a tone of my choice between a set range. I did it with driver/passenger windows open (this portion you were allowed to have them open

Moble Enclosurs
06-03-2012, 10:08 AM
Unless you have his same car and setup you cant really say what he should atleast be hitting.

I can lol. But thats different ;D