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View Full Version : Please give feedback on my Hybrid Clarus install and door deadening (pics inside)



hari-bhari
03-07-2012, 03:57 PM
I just installed a set of Hybrid Audio Clarus C61-2s and wanted some advice on my install, particularly the mid installation. I am currently running them active from a carPC with the following parameters:

HPF at 63hz @ 24db for the mids
HPF/LPF at 5.9khz for the mids/tweets (can't tell the difference between anything in the 5k-6k range, so I just picked something)

Currently, I have to boost the 60 and 120hz bands by about 6db to get good midbass response, but of course this does muddy up the mid range a little bit. I am wondering if theres anything I can do to improve my install.

Speakers are mounted on 3/4" thick MDF rings surrounded by weatherstripping clay. Tweets are in stock locations aimed slightly forward and upwards.

I've used Raammat on the inner door skin (both sides, 1 layer), and on the outer door skin behind the speaker (whatever I could reach). The large holes in the outer door skin were sealed with a plexiglass sheet, but this still seems to have some flex. Any recs for what I can change it to or how to improve midbass response?

Any advice is appreciated!

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/7387/photo1iul.jpg
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4806/photo2sq.jpg
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/2687/photo5xx.jpg
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/5006/photo4va.jpghttp://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4033/photo2ra.jpg

Why So Cereal?
03-07-2012, 04:12 PM
Running subs? Have T/a? Try delaying the mids to reach your ears the same time as the subs. I recently did this, and I'm still tweaking it, but there now seems to be a sub in my dash :) worked wonders for me!

Also, make sure you're not getting midbass cancellation between the two midbass drivers due to some phasing issues.

wenn_du_weinst
03-07-2012, 04:18 PM
what the **** why didn't my post stick
anyway seal the panel to the door skin, your losing output by it playing in between the skin and panel.

SourDeez
03-07-2012, 04:21 PM
what the **** why didn't my post stick
anyway seal the panel to the door skin, your losing output by it playing in between the skin and panel.

Which part is the skin?

wenn_du_weinst
03-07-2012, 04:26 PM
the metal part of the door that is deadened.

hari-bhari
03-07-2012, 05:07 PM
Running subs? Have T/a? Try delaying the mids to reach your ears the same time as the subs. I recently did this, and I'm still tweaking it, but there now seems to be a sub in my dash :) worked wonders for me!

Also, make sure you're not getting midbass cancellation between the two midbass drivers due to some phasing issues.

i am using time alingment and my midbass and bass is centered, just lacking some punch in the midbass department. they dont seem to be moving as much air as they could/should. when i bandpass my rear 6x9s from 60-125hz, i get gooooood midbass, but it messes up my soundstage.

keep_hope_alive
03-07-2012, 10:06 PM
Is the clay around the speaker sealing against the door panel?

hari-bhari
03-08-2012, 01:20 AM
there's another layer i put between the mdf ring and the door. so its speaker --> clay --> mdf ring --> clay --> door

---------- Post added at 01:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 AM ----------


what the **** why didn't my post stick
anyway seal the panel to the door skin, your losing output by it playing in between the skin and panel.

not sure what you mean by this? do you mean to basically put an enclosure behind the speaker?

keep_hope_alive
03-09-2012, 08:21 AM
not sure what you mean by this? do you mean to basically put an enclosure behind the speaker?

no, he means the plastic door panel should seal around the speaker - against the metal door panel/baffle. I think that's what the extra clay is doing.

you don't want to sound to get between the plastic panel and the door metal - it will result in panel vibrations, lots of phase interference, and general poor results.

I see the OP is using rope caulk. Non-hardening modeling clay is superior in that it will not harden and crack. The point of clay is for it to never harden. Hobby/Craft stores sell it for like $4 a pack.

hari-bhari
03-09-2012, 09:27 AM
the front of the speaker is sealed to the plastic door skin with some more clay. i used the non-hardening molding clay for my last install, but after when i changed these speakers out 3 years later, i saw that it has actually hardened. plus it is much messier and difficult to deal with. i thought the rope caulk actually worked better IMO.

hari-bhari
03-09-2012, 11:39 AM
so any advice to actually improve the door deadening?

CADENCE SOUND
03-09-2012, 11:44 AM
d.a.m.n all that work and still lacking mid-bass? Doesn't seem right..


Non-hardening modeling clay is superior in that it will not harden and crack. The point of clay is for it to never harden. Hobby/Craft stores sell it for like $4 a pack.

And this stuff is golden!

keep_hope_alive
03-09-2012, 11:51 AM
rope caulk will harden and crack much faster than the clay. and you need to be sure to not get the air-hardenening stuff (similar packaging). some versions are made to harden without baking. i've considered that stuff for tweeter pods.

i will try some Green Glue in my next version of door pods. That stuff never hardens and is engineered to provide damping.

the non-hardening clay i used in my apillars is still soft after several years. note that "hardness" varies with temperature. so it's harder in the winter and softer in the summer. that's why i still rely on foam/rubber weatherstripping for seals and decoupling.

keep_hope_alive
03-09-2012, 11:53 AM
from there, midbass relies on PLD, so T/A is vital with door placements. just consider midbass wavelengths and the typical PLD in a car.