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View Full Version : would this vented enclosure design work for a 10w7



dannieboiz
03-02-2012, 11:38 PM
So I've built a few sealed enclosure with success. i wanna try to build a vented box for the 10w7. I took the specs from JL and modified it to fit the dimension that fit my trunk. Do you think this would work for a single 10w7?

JL recommended the slot to be 12"hx22"Lx1.5"w

The vent I came up is 34.5hx7.75'Lx1.5"w i know it's didn't measure out to match the JL specs 100% but would it work?

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/2312/ventboxdesignw7s550.jpg

duanebro
03-02-2012, 11:46 PM
No, that will have a different tuning. Also, as a general rule, you want less than an 1:8 width to height ratio for the port. What tuning and box size do they recommend?

Sorry, I hate it when people don't explain why something is wrong, or how to fix it. So what you need to look at is the area of the port. As long as you keep that the same, and the length of the port and volume of the box don't change, tuning will stay the same. Or at least close enough. But a really skinny port won't work well, hence the 1:8 ratio limit.

If you want to know more about designing boxes, and how changing the port affects your design, go to Facebook and search for WinISD. It is a free box design program.

dannieboiz
03-03-2012, 12:10 PM
WTH: I posted a reply to this thread last night and it's saying that the mods need to confirm. It's been all night lemme try again.

Below is what JL recommends. I have a max 36x13x11 space to work with but if I can have a 35x12x10 box it would be better.

Wall Thickness 0.75 in / 19 mm
Front Baffle Thickness 1.0 in / 25 mm
Volume (net int.) 1.5 cu ft / 42.5 L
External Width (W) 23.25 in / 591 mm
External Height (H) 13.5 in / 343 mm
External Depth (D) 14.5 in / 368 mm
Internal Slot Port Width (SW) 1.5 in / 38 mm
Internal Slot Port Height (SH) 12 in / 305 mm
Internal Slot Port Depth (SD) 22.5 in / 572 mm
Port Extension Length (EL) 7.25 in / 184 mm
Tune to 35.33 Hz
F3 32 Hz

you can see the enclosure here

http://www.jlaudio.com/10w7ae-3-car-audio-w7ae-subwoofer-drivers-92114#

dannieboiz
03-03-2012, 01:36 PM
I just did a 2nd measure.

Max external dimension I can have is 36Lx14Hx11d.

To make it easier for me to work with. If we can keep it 35Lx14Hx10d. this would give me wiggle room for wiring.

The trunk is relatively big but I have a lot of compartment under the trunk that I'm trying to retain and especially the spare tire.

with the given space, do you think I can effectively build a slotted enclosure? I like it loud but would still like to retain as much SQ as possible. Any other sub I can't say but from all that I've been seeing, everyone seems to favor the JL HO boxes with these subs so I'm trying to achieve that result.

Buck
03-03-2012, 01:43 PM
No!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't build that!

If you need help designing one or need a design I can help you out.

duanebro
03-03-2012, 01:51 PM
If you can calculate volume, you can do this on your own. Make the port to spec. put it at one end of the box. box h=13.5", port h=12, port width=1.5, and length 22", the length is more than the depth of the box so it will need one corner. Measure down the center of the port for total length. Make sure you put a 45 in the corner to keep the port about the same width. Adjust the width of the box to get the correct box volume, after you subtract the volume used up by the port and sub.

dannieboiz
03-03-2012, 01:57 PM
When calculating volume on a slot box, I mix all the baffle inside that makes up the slots right? So starting from the last baffle to the other end is where the total volume is right?

Also, how thin can I go on the baffles for the slots inside?

duanebro
03-03-2012, 01:57 PM
No!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't build that!

If you need help designing one or need a design I can help you out.

I don't have time to get into a design this weekend. Could you do a show and tell for the op as to why a different design would be better? Not a design, just how your design would be better than the JL HO box.

duanebro
03-03-2012, 02:02 PM
When calculating volume on a slot box, I mix all the baffle inside that makes up the slots right? So starting from the last baffle to the other end is where the total volume is right?

Also, how thin can I go on the baffles for the slots inside?

Use inside dimensions. The port doesn't count in your total. See what buck can tell you also. One size does not fit all - cars, or music.

dannieboiz
03-03-2012, 04:14 PM
I think I got your idea. Here's the new design that would yield me 1.52 cu ft with the port very close to what JL recommends. How does that look? The dimension is all inside measurements add the thickness of 1" front and .75" sides and rear it would be a perfect fit.

http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/9872/subboxv2.jpg

duanebro
03-03-2012, 08:24 PM
Try making a L shaped port, so it will go in the front like your drawing but just turn right, using the back of the box as a side of the port. That way you only have one turn in the port.

dannieboiz
03-03-2012, 08:38 PM
Try making a L shaped port, so it will go in the front like your drawing but just turn right, using the back of the box as a side of the port. That way you only have one turn in the port.

is there a pro and con in my current design vs changing it to an L shape port besides one less piece to worry about? based on an online port tune calculator what I have now would give me right around 31.9hz on the port which is perfect.

btw: with this design I still have room to brace the middle. 34" is a pretty long run

One more question. JL recommend 1" front but if I went with 3/4" all around I can fit all the pieces on a single 4x4 piece of MDF do you see a problem with this?

duanebro
03-05-2012, 12:10 PM
is there a pro and con in my current design vs changing it to an L shape port besides one less piece to worry about? based on an online port tune calculator what I have now would give me right around 31.9hz on the port which is perfect.

btw: with this design I still have room to brace the middle. 34" is a pretty long run

One more question. JL recommend 1" front but if I went with 3/4" all around I can fit all the pieces on a single 4x4 piece of MDF do you see a problem with this?

Air flows through the port. The more corners the more resistance and turbulence. The port will be less effective and have more port noise. I don't know if it will make enough difference to be noticed.

You need to put an angled piece on the corners of the port so it will stay the same size around the corners.

dannieboiz
03-05-2012, 12:45 PM
What's your thoughts on the 3/4" front instead of 1" as suggested? Since it a ported enclosure do u think its neccassary?

mazdakid
03-05-2012, 01:15 PM
A 3/4" is fine for the front.

duanebro
03-05-2012, 01:50 PM
What's your thoughts on the 3/4" front instead of 1" as suggested? Since it a ported enclosure do u think its neccassary?

Yes 3/4" is fine. A few braces will do more than a thicker baffle.

dannieboiz
03-05-2012, 06:48 PM
Ok so here we go again with a new design as you suggested using 3/4" wood all around. The port is 12"Hx1.5wx28" based on ~1.5 cu ft volume this would give me ~32hz


How do you suggest a brace a box like this? little 1/2" dowls along the front and rear baffles? I'm guessing dowls inside the port would not be a good idea cause it'll probably whistle so what do I do with the rears? http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/8263/jlventedbox.png

duanebro
03-05-2012, 10:44 PM
You don't need to brace inside the port. As far as the rest of the box I like window braces(looks kind of like a plus sign). Or what I did for my last builds - Basically cut and extra piece like you are going to divide the box. Then cut out the center. You can see what I have done on my last two boxes at my FB Page: DB Designs | Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/pages/DB-Designs/171680872921455).

Sorry if my answers have been short, I am trying to prepare for 2 midterms tomorrow.

dannieboiz
03-05-2012, 11:19 PM
no problem on the short answer, you've been very helpful. I'm going to try to brace it where I could without altering the overall dimension too much. perhaps I can add polyfill to make up the difference to see if it helps. I'm going to start my build tomorrow and for sure will take photos.

dannieboiz
03-07-2012, 01:27 AM
So I competed the build today. With my amp left at the same setting as it was in my sealed box I just hooked it up for a quick test. It's late here so I can really mess with the amp but right out of the box, I noticed that it's lacking the pushiness it had in the sealed box. Would this be something that need to be adjusted on the xover? It's gonna be a b1tch for me since I'm taking the signal from my stock sub which already has xover.

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1984/dsc00232zi.jpg
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6628/dsc00233sj.jpg
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/5843/curing.jpg

duanebro
03-07-2012, 07:11 AM
You are fast! Sealed boxes are known to be "punchy". While ported are much louder. I personally think this has more to do with the frequency response differences between the two than anything. The punch is higher in frequency, so you hear it more when the bass is flat. Ported boxes - with cabin gain tend to have an overpowering low end, making them sound fat, loose, etc.

Moble Enclosurs
03-09-2012, 10:55 AM
No, that will have a different tuning. Also, as a general rule, you want less than an 1:8 width to height ratio for the port. What tuning and box size do they recommend?

Sorry, I hate it when people don't explain why something is wrong, or how to fix it. So what you need to look at is the area of the port. As long as you keep that the same, and the length of the port and volume of the box don't change, tuning will stay the same. Or at least close enough. But a really skinny port won't work well, hence the 1:8 ratio limit.

If you want to know more about designing boxes, and how changing the port affects your design, go to Facebook and search for WinISD. It is a free box design program.

VERY IMPORTANT to reduce resonances that are unneeded. :D

dannieboiz
03-09-2012, 10:58 AM
Well, it's official that I don't like the sound of a ported box. It sounds twice as loud and rattle the crap out of my car but I'm missing a few notes on some of the songs I listen too. I think I may end up just building another sealed box and upping the amp to a 750hd or 1000/1

Moble Enclosurs
03-09-2012, 11:01 AM
The specs of the design you built is likely incorrect with the proper operation of the driver used. It is best to have one of us do the design for you. I would be interested to show you what a ported box is capable of given the right specifications if interested for a low price on a design. Visit my website for more information Welcome to Mobile Enclosures! - Mobile Enclosures - Custom subwoofer boxes (http://mobileenclosures.jimdo.com/).