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View Full Version : Alternatives to cup terminals?



Confessed
02-26-2012, 04:27 PM
I don't want cup terminals. What options are there besides running the speaker wire straight out of the port? Is running wire out of the port a bad thing?

JoshC
02-26-2012, 04:30 PM
I don't want cup terminals. What options are there besides running the speaker wire straight out of the port? Is running wire out of the port a bad thing?

lol out of the port? That sounds like a hassle and alot of unnecessary length. If its a ported box just drill holes the size of your wire. It dosnt affect the sound, all of my ported boxes just have small holes my wires come threw. On sealed i wouldnt recommend it but ported no biggie

kushy_dreams
02-26-2012, 04:31 PM
I use 1 1/2in long 10-24 bolts with wing nuts.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/109/1749/25270874059_large.jpg

Confessed
02-26-2012, 04:31 PM
lol out of the port? That sounds like a hassle and alot of unnecessary length. If its a ported box just drill holes the size of your wire. It dosnt affect the sound, all of my ported boxes just have small holes my wires come threw. On sealed i wouldnt recommend it but ported no biggie

Really? Just drill a tiny hole? I figured any openings that aren't the port shouldn't exist.

Off topic, but where do you guys order speaker wire from? I only have 14 and 16 gauge, need 10.

JoshC
02-26-2012, 04:33 PM
Really? Just drill a tiny hole? I figured any openings that aren't the port shouldn't exist.

naw dude compared to port opening its no a big deal at all. The bolt/wingnut route is also a good option

I ran 8g to my JBL sub and i drilled 2 holes for it. Even though 8g is rather large both of the holes didnt make any noise. After you run the wire threw not alot of air can come out it. It was on 800wrms for reference

Dirtrider4eva
02-26-2012, 04:33 PM
use studs... i have 3" long studs, 1/2 around, with washers, and lock nuts. looks sick on my box too.

Confessed
02-26-2012, 05:01 PM
I use 1 1/2in long 10-24 bolts with wing nuts.

I'd like to do this. Is it like this: Wing nut/wire/washer/wood/washer/wire/wing nut? How do you secure the wire on it?

kushy_dreams
02-26-2012, 05:07 PM
I do it like this: amp << wing nut/lock washer/flat washer/ring terminal/flat washer/wood/flat washer/ring terminal/flat washer >>sub

ring terminal: http://media.digikey.com/photos/3M%20Photos/MH10-14RK.JPG

snyderd758
02-27-2012, 02:03 AM
I use these.Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold 091-1245 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245)

JoshC
02-27-2012, 02:17 AM
See im lazy, i just drill a hole and be done hahahahaha

schackel
02-27-2012, 04:29 AM
i drill holes the size of the wire and cauk around the wire

CAT MAN
02-27-2012, 05:59 AM
See im lazy, i just drill a hole and be done hahahahaha

if you dont fill up the hole with some kind of sealant you are leaking like a mug

bubbagumper6
02-27-2012, 09:38 AM
You can get set screw ground lugs that will basically give You amp-like terminals with the bolt idea (instead of ring terminals). They sell them in the electrical section at most hardware stores. I have a pic on my home comp but I'm on my phone...

JoshC
02-27-2012, 10:28 AM
if you dont fill up the hole with some kind of sealant you are leaking like a mug

well it dosnt sound leaky, so i dont care lol

maylar
02-27-2012, 12:54 PM
I use these.Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold 091-1245 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245)

Yup. Me too.

miska_man
02-27-2012, 01:30 PM
well it dosnt sound leaky, so i dont care lol

Do you seriously have almost 1,500 posts on this forum and not know advanced car audio? Drilling holes and not caulking is something I would expect from a noob, not someone with as many posts as you.

As for the OP, this is what I would do:

wing nut/lock washer/ring terminal/flat washer/nut/wood/flat washer/ring terminal/flat washer/head of bolt

Other than the nut to the left side of the wood, it is almost the exact same as kushy_dreams idea. The nut to the left side of the wood is so the bolt doesn't slide back into the box.

HillBillyJoe
02-27-2012, 01:58 PM
nut, bolt, washer, ring terminals...

murph
02-27-2012, 02:00 PM
Is it really that hard to caulk the hole after you run the wire through it. Nope. Now stop thinking about using ****** terminal cups and do as suggested with the bolts or direct connection with the hole.

CADENCE SOUND
02-27-2012, 02:24 PM
Speaker Cable at Blue Jeans Cable (http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm)

I like the binding post idea....Used these guys a lot for my HT stuff..good prices on quality gear..

orphe
02-27-2012, 02:40 PM
I use 1 1/2in long 10-24 bolts with wing nuts.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/109/1749/25270874059_large.jpg

That looks like a hazard to me...
What if something metal falls on those two terminals?
What if the box shifts and hits bare metal?
What if your arm/hand touches it on a hot humid day?

For the OP just drill a hole in the box nearest to the amp, Run wire through it and seal.

JoshC
02-27-2012, 02:51 PM
Do you seriously have almost 1,500 posts on this forum and not know advanced car audio? Drilling holes and not caulking is something I would expect from a noob, not someone with as many posts as you.

As for the OP, this is what I would do:

wing nut/lock washer/ring terminal/flat washer/nut/wood/flat washer/ring terminal/flat washer/head of bolt

Other than the nut to the left side of the wood, it is almost the exact same as kushy_dreams idea. The nut to the left side of the wood is so the bolt doesn't slide back into the box.

Lol ok Einstein, sorry i based this off experience not what the "pros" do

I have had ported boxes with terminal cups and ive had boxes with holes. I have a very high sensitivity to port noise and air leaks, i redid the box to my JBL 10P 3 times just because i didnt like the noise made when the air was shot at certain angles in my single cab(one was into a tray causing slight wooshing, one slot port just drove me insain 50-60hz buzzing, one box didnt have the range i liked) and ive NEVER heard a difference from holes for wires

Now u wanna talk about a sealed box then YES, i heard that **** SHHHHHH when the caulk dryed and cracked on my old JL w3 box. Just had holes in the top(got box from friends dad) and pre ran wires. So i just dropped it in and i could hear the air coming from the hole. So that needed to be re sealed up

So in my experience with a sub stage(1K and under) if the box is ported i just drill. I bet you money if you got in my truck you wouldnt be able to tell

JoshC
02-27-2012, 02:54 PM
Is it really that hard to caulk the hole after you run the wire through it. Nope. Now stop thinking about using ****** terminal cups and do as suggested with the bolts or direct connection with the hole.

hahahhahaha :thumbsup:


Ide caulk mine up just for you, the the holes are impossible to get to unless the box is out of the truck. And im not removing my center console again



EDIT: so my buddy who builds my boxes and he did seal up my wire holes hahahha, but 2 of 3 of my JBL boxes had holes without caulk and i didnt hear any noise from them.

kushy_dreams
02-27-2012, 02:55 PM
That looks like a hazard to me...
What if something metal falls on those two terminals?
What if the box shifts and hits bare metal?
What if your arm/hand touches it on a hot humid day?

For the OP just drill a hole in the box nearest to the amp, Run wire through it and seal.

No bare metal will touch to the wing nuts, the box doesnt shift its bolted down, I have done installs in over 100degree temps with tropical humidity and no problems. ITs much safer than youd think.

orphe
02-27-2012, 03:32 PM
No bare metal will touch to the wing nuts, the box doesnt shift its bolted down, I have done installs in over 100degree temps with tropical humidity and no problems. ITs much safer than youd think.
I dunno. still leaves out the what if something metal falls on it???? The results could be pretty bad while amp in on.

kushy_dreams
02-27-2012, 03:52 PM
I dunno. still leaves out the what if something metal falls on it???? The results could be pretty bad while amp in on.

I'm telling you bro, its not gonna happen. Idk what kind of trunk you have or whats in it, but I would bet that theres a better chance of getting struck by lightining then a piece of metal falling precisely on the wing nuts, causing a short. I have built many boxes this way and there has never been an issue.

Kangaroux
02-27-2012, 03:55 PM
Worse case scenario, something falls EXACTLY onto both of the terminals and it shorts something out. If your amp is worth two shits it has a built in circuit to protect itself in the case of a speaker wire short.

Kangaroux
02-27-2012, 03:57 PM
Do you seriously have almost 1,500 posts on this forum and not know advanced car audio? Drilling holes and not caulking is something I would expect from a noob, not someone with as many posts as you.

As for the OP, this is what I would do:

wing nut/lock washer/ring terminal/flat washer/nut/wood/flat washer/ring terminal/flat washer/head of bolt

Other than the nut to the left side of the wood, it is almost the exact same as kushy_dreams idea. The nut to the left side of the wood is so the bolt doesn't slide back into the box.

I didn't caulk the area around where my speaker wire comes out and I hear 0 air leaks, even at 22hz on full volume. Only reason I haven't caulked it is because it's a mess and I move the wire around quite a bit.

JoshC
02-27-2012, 04:11 PM
I didn't caulk the area around where my speaker wire comes out and I hear 0 air leaks, even at 22hz on full volume. Only reason I haven't caulked it is because it's a mess and I move the wire around quite a bit.

LOL thank you, he kinda sounds like a jackass. Idk how bit of holes ure drillin buddy but i said big enough for the wire. Theres not alot of air that could get threw lol

orphe
02-27-2012, 04:12 PM
I'm telling you bro, its not gonna happen. Idk what kind of trunk you have or whats in it, but I would bet that theres a better chance of getting struck by lightining then a piece of metal falling precisely on the wing nuts, causing a short. I have built many boxes this way and there has never been an issue.


Worse case scenario, something falls EXACTLY onto both of the terminals and it shorts something out. If your amp is worth two shits it has a built in circuit to protect itself in the case of a speaker wire short.

Probably right but hey, ya know, S#!t happens! Better to just play it safe! I NEVER thought anything could get into my ports if I kept the area clean. Found a shirt I have been missing for 2 weeks..

Kangaroux
02-27-2012, 04:15 PM
Probably right but hey, ya know, S#!t happens! Better to just play it safe!

Honestly you probably have a better chance of your power wire coming out of the fuse or the terminal coming loose on your battery than that happening.

JoshC
02-27-2012, 04:29 PM
Probably right but hey, ya know, S#!t happens! Better to just play it safe! I NEVER thought anything could get into my ports if I kept the area clean. Found a shirt I have been missing for 2 weeks..

ANd you couldnt tell the sound change or hear flapping? A sunglass case got into mine the other day(silk bag cases) and i could hear that **** thing fluttering around like crazy.

orphe
02-27-2012, 04:36 PM
Honestly you probably have a better chance of your power wire coming out of the fuse or the terminal coming loose on your battery than that happening.
Maybe... But i like to play it safe. I just run wire straight to the amp and call it a day

orphe
02-27-2012, 04:43 PM
ANd you couldnt tell the sound change or hear flapping? A sunglass case got into mine the other day(silk bag cases) and i could hear that **** thing fluttering around like crazy.
yea I did. Thought I blew out a sub so I didn't play as loud till I was able to afford a new one. Was surprised to find my old tshirt in the chamber. I was like what are the odds a tshirt gets suucked all the way down the port into the chamber!?!?

JoshC
02-27-2012, 04:50 PM
yea I did. Thought I blew out a sub so I didn't play as loud till I was able to afford a new one. Was surprised to find my old tshirt in the chamber. I was like what are the odds a tshirt gets suucked all the way down the port into the chamber!?!?

haha

bubbagumper6
02-27-2012, 05:44 PM
These are the terminals I was talking about earlier...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/bubbagumper6/terminalidea-1.jpg

kushy_dreams
02-27-2012, 05:55 PM
These are the terminals I was talking about earlier...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/bubbagumper6/terminalidea-1.jpg

So home depot sells those?

Kangaroux
02-27-2012, 06:35 PM
Maybe... But i like to play it safe. I just run wire straight to the amp and call it a day

You play it safe yet you use no fuses? Wtf

bubbagumper6
02-27-2012, 06:43 PM
So home depot sells those?

I would assume so, but I bought mine at Menards.

kushy_dreams
02-27-2012, 06:45 PM
I would assume so, but I bought mine at Menards.

Hmm I'm gonna have to do some investigating. I really like those. Are they sold individually, how much do they run? Sorry for all the questions.

keep_hope_alive
02-27-2012, 06:48 PM
i use 10-24 bolts and locking nuts as well. then ring terminals. i've drilled holes and sealed with silicone. i've used the Dayton studs. it's install dependent.

Boomsday
02-27-2012, 06:54 PM
So home depot sells those?

Yep, come in a 2pack iirc, about 2-3bux per bag

NoLoud4U
02-27-2012, 06:54 PM
Binding post here.. The Daytons

bhsdriller
02-27-2012, 07:00 PM
hole sealed with cawk

05trailblazer
02-27-2012, 08:10 PM
how much resistance is there after all those lugs and bolts?

Confessed
02-27-2012, 08:47 PM
I'll probably go with some simple wing nut/nut/washer setup. Don't like the idea of sealing a hole with caulk. Wth do I do when I have to change speaker wire for whatever reason?

Nut Hair Trick
02-27-2012, 09:20 PM
Buy these from home depot. SKU # 608576
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/39/39563940-a21c-4ed7-91fe-493ecb22b71a_300.jpg
1/4-20 x 20mm Zinc-Plated Steel Type-D Insert Nuts (4-Pack)-54454 at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202105592/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)
Drill a hole a little smaller than the insert, apply some wood glue and twist them in with a hex head. There will be absolutely no leaks at all when you use these screws from Home Depot. SKU # 254827
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/colbyjack420/brass_machine_screws_2-1.jpg
1/4-20 x 2 in. Coarse Brass Flat-Head Phillips Machine Screws (2-Pack)-30171 at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Fasteners-Screws-Machine/h_d1/N-5yc1vZaqhf/R-202706238/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)


I'm very happy with the way mine turned out
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/fullyinvolved/G35%20build/130117.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/fullyinvolved/G35%20build/130120.jpg

bubbagumper6
02-27-2012, 11:05 PM
Hmm I'm gonna have to do some investigating. I really like those. Are they sold individually, how much do they run? Sorry for all the questions.


Yep, come in a 2pack iirc, about 2-3bux per bag

Pretty much

miska_man
02-28-2012, 08:04 PM
LOL thank you, he kinda sounds like a jackass. Idk how bit of holes ure drillin buddy but i said big enough for the wire. Theres not alot of air that could get threw lol

THANK YOU for assuming things.

But I'll have you know that I'm still supporting my idea. Say you do a test with caulk and then no caulk with eteris paribus. Report back and tell me what the difference was in dBs between the two tests.

MANTI5
02-28-2012, 08:09 PM
I wouldn't have any open holes in an enclosure that's not a port.

TheUnderFighter
02-28-2012, 08:17 PM
i drill holes the size of the wire and cauk around the wire

same

JoshC
02-28-2012, 08:20 PM
THANK YOU for assuming things.

But I'll have you know that I'm still supporting my idea. Say you do a test with caulk and then no caulk with eteris paribus. Report back and tell me what the difference was in dBs between the two tests.

ill pass, u do it and get back to us

TheUnderFighter
02-28-2012, 08:20 PM
I'll probably go with some simple wing nut/nut/washer setup. Don't like the idea of sealing a hole with caulk. Wth do I do when I have to change speaker wire for whatever reason?

you pull it out.... it's not THAT strong. Any designer/builder I've talked to have said if it's a ported design, it's not a problem just drilling and running wire through. if it's sealed, that's a different story.

JoshC
02-28-2012, 08:22 PM
I'll probably go with some simple wing nut/nut/washer setup. Don't like the idea of sealing a hole with caulk. Wth do I do when I have to change speaker wire for whatever reason?

yank that **** out man, lol

Or just use quality wire and don't cut your runs short if you relocate the amp later. Will be no reason to change the wire then

Bettr n' Revrse
02-28-2012, 08:23 PM
Ha post!

bubbagumper6
02-28-2012, 08:26 PM
I've done the whole "just run the wire through and caulk the hole" and not only did I have problems with my caulk getting blown out of the hole but it was a PITA if I had to remove the enclosure (having 3' of dangling 10 gauge wire was annoying and inconvenient to say the least)

miska_man
02-28-2012, 09:30 PM
ill pass, u do it and get back to us

I'll go do it if you go take a spelling class.

JoshC
02-28-2012, 09:43 PM
I'll go do it if you go take a spelling class.

horrible just horrible, waz b wong wiff mah spallan

VWBobby
02-28-2012, 10:13 PM
The Dayton terminals are the best for this type of application. Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold 091-1245 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245)
If you're worried about them shorting out, recess them by drilling counter-sink holes or 2nd using piece of MDF as a baffle board.

Otherwise I just run the wires straight out of the box using sealant or stack nuts and washers like this: Bolt - Washer - Terminal - Washer - Nut - Washer - Terminal - Washer - Nut. Washers on both sides of the board and on the terminal. This way you can loosen the nut without the bolt turning inside the box.

VWBobby
02-28-2012, 10:14 PM
The Dayton terminals are the best for this type of application. Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold 091-1245 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245)
If you're worried about them shorting out, recess them by drilling counter-sink holes or using a 2nd piece of MDF as a baffle board.

Otherwise I just run the wires straight out of the box using sealant or stack nuts and washers like this: Bolt - Washer - Terminal - Washer - Nut - Washer - Terminal - Washer - Nut. Washers on both sides of the board and on the terminal. This way you can loosen the nut without the bolt turning inside the box.

Confessed
02-29-2012, 08:36 AM
Just bought the Dayton binding posts. Thanks for all the suggestions.

orphe
03-02-2012, 04:49 PM
You play it safe yet you use no fuses? Wtf
You put fuses between your amp and your subs? WTF?

TexMexThugga
03-03-2012, 12:51 AM
These are the terminals I was talking about earlier...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/bubbagumper6/terminalidea-1.jpg

i just bought 3 packs for 4 bucks at home depot today
http://i40.tinypic.com/eu3uwg.jpg