View Full Version : 2007+ NBS Silverado/Sierra with Center Console - amplifier mounting help

02-18-2012, 07:47 PM
Hey guys, I have the rediculously long Audiopipe 3001D that is 28" long. I yanked out my center console so I could fit my amp in there. I made a couple of cuts for the metal bracket to get it to fit. So I got it it fit, however when I went to put in the insert for the storage, the very front deep part hits the floor and wont allow me to put my amp there. I have no other idea's on how to mount this amp. I have my back seats ripped out and I just dont see how I can mount this amp behind my rear seats.

So I was thinking of cutting out the bottom and making it more shallow. So I was thinking of making the bottom out of plexi-glass and then I can put the bottom rubber inserts over it. I can remove the rubber bottom to show the plexiglass and you can see my amp all lit up.

Anyone have any ideas? Anyone know the best way to cut this thin plexi-glass without shattering it?





02-18-2012, 08:30 PM
I would just cut it, save the bottom, and then use some epoxy to put it back on once you got it where you need it.

02-19-2012, 03:11 AM
I was thinking of just remaking the entire snap in part out of plexiglass and then the rubber matting can go over it to protect the plexi-glass. That way there, I could remove the rubber matting to show off my amplifier inside. Im just unsure how to bond it properly without it making it look like I super glued everything together.

I have several build logs of people's installs in an extended cab and crew cab OBS trucks, with the amps mounted behind the rear seat, but I just dont see how that would be possible with these NBS 2007+ crew cabs. So if anyone could point me in the right direction, that would be great. Also, if anyone has attempted to do what I have done, by putting the amp under the center console, that would be great. I guess if all else fails, I will just have to put the Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 under the center console and make a cut out for my box for the Audiopipe 3000D in my box, but from my calculations, I would be losing 0.17585 cu ft minimum out of my box. I need every bit of volume possible to get either my two LMS-R 12's ported or my ultimate goal of four SA-8 Version 2's ported under my seats.

I already ordered my square aluminum tubing which should be here by Fedex on Wednesday to raise my seats 3". Here is where I got it from what what I got.

You can use the promo code "aprilfools" to receive 10% off of your order. Also, I had them cut everything to spec. Call me lazy, but I decided to pay the $1.50 per cut charge after the first cut charge. If you purchase the metal the the total length you want and cut it yourself, you wont incure any cut charges, but hey, its $3, who cares, right? I just didnt want to risk snapping off a blade and having to run to Lowe's to get a couple more. Also, with the T6 Aluminum, this is very strong stuff here. From what I have read, this is the stuff to go with instead of going with just your regular old steel.


Confirmation Order Sheet

Qty Description - Size Price Total Status
2" x 3" x 0.25" 6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE
3.000000 Inches (L) $5.10 $10.20 Checking Stock

2" x 3" x 0.25" 6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE
6.000000 Inches (L) $10.21 $20.42 Checking Stock

2" x 3" x 0.25" 6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE
2.000000 Inches (L) $3.40 $13.60 Checking Stock

Shipping Method UPS Ground
Shipping Fee $15.81
Cut Fee: $3.00
Subtotal: $63.03
Tax: $0.00
Total Sale: $63.03
10% Total discount off list prices $4.92
(prices above already reflect your discounts)

So right now, I have pretty much my entire truck ripped apartment. My center console, which was a Pita to get out by the way, my rear seats are pulled out, which are even more of a Pita to get back in and I decided to grind everything back down for my grounds even more. I'm still unsure how I am going to route my wiring. If I can fit my Audiopipe 3000D in my center console, then I pretty much have it figured out. If not, then I will be forced to mount the amps on top of the subwoofer box, with rubber spacers of course to reduce vibration, but this will reduce my very much needed box volume that I need.

I have a guy who lives within 8 miles from me, who is on this board, and he is generous enough to help me build my box. I didnt know there were people out there like that still who are willing enough to help a fellow unemployed person out with some knowledge, help, and fiberglass items to help build my box.

I guess the problem I am trying to figure out now, is how am I going to go from the two 12" subs down to four SA-8 Version 2's. The SA-8's is what my ultimate goal is. I have read so much that these LMS-R 12's will just absolutely murder the lows, but I want that, "Holy crap, you have 8" subs in your truck?" thing. These LMS-R 12's are awesome and cant wait to hear them, if I even hook them up. I may just keep them in the box and sell them to go towards my SA-8's.

02-21-2012, 03:15 PM

02-21-2012, 03:38 PM
You can def mount Amps behind the seat. You just have to cut away the stock sound dampener. The rear wall bumps out half way up. So there's a space you can do it. I'm about to do it myself.

02-22-2012, 06:39 AM
How do you fasten a piece of wood across the back wall? Im not willing to drill through my steel of my cab

02-22-2012, 01:00 PM
Thats what you gotta do. Its Dual walled so its not too bad to do. If you look at i think its subthumps website thats exactly what they show with their underseat boxes

02-22-2012, 01:08 PM
As for your plexi idea, it doesnt bond well. Real acrylic does however. You need a specific bonding agent for it though and its hard to come by. Atleast in my area it is. Aquarium builders have it.

02-23-2012, 05:43 AM
I was thinking about picking up some Plastic Bond in the model section at Hobby Lobby, cut a couple of random pieces and try it out and see if it works.

02-23-2012, 10:00 AM
amp will fit on the back wall no prob. i fit 2 amps and an active crossover in my 2500HD back there. if you dont want to screw into the back of the cab you can use epoxy across the back of the wood to the back wall, it'll hold as long as your back wall doesnt flex like crazy. waaayyy easier then mounting the amp under the center console. it'll probly get too hot in there anyways.

02-23-2012, 11:13 AM
I had a board there with my amps attached as well, and it worked great. However, I did use screws to attach the board to the back wall. 2 screws (1 on each side) to hold it on, and it worked out great. It's really not that big of a deal, and well worth it next to the option of under the seat. Also, as "adas" mentioned "you can use epoxy across the back of the wood to the back wall, it'll hold as long as your back wall doesn't flex like crazy". This is key. Cause if it's glue, and they should happen to "fall off" you can possibly cause some major issues with the amp. I'd say to small holes are well worth it, lol.

02-29-2012, 05:56 AM
I am just scared that I will screw all the way through the rear if the cab. I havent ripped out the factory sound foam yet. I have been hospitalized for the past couple of weeks, so I dont know what it looks like back there.

Guess that means I am going to have to get some sound deadener. What is the forum sound deadener boner going around now? After my surgery and my hospitalization, its going to need to be budget friendly.

03-18-2012, 09:02 PM
Well I had to go back to the hospital and I just got discharged, AGAIN, Thursday. I just Dynamatted my rear wall. After doing some test fittings of my two amps, it looks like I won't be able to mount both amps. There simply just isnt enough room. I am going to have to improvise. My Audiopipe 3001D is gonna have to be flush mounted in my box unfortunately. I will have to buy some rubber gromments so that it will absorb some of the vibration. I'm only able to fit one amp on the back wall.