2001 Accord EX Sedan - it's long

[keep_hope_alive]

This is gonna be LONG.

I bought a 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 VTEC in the summer of 2005, it had 95k mi. and I paid around $10k. I have just under 160k mi on it now, all recommended maintenance performed and no issues. I like the car. This build log is a chronological history of what I’ve tried. I am showing you the history to give ideas – the prupose of this is to inspire. My personal skills have improved since the beginning of this build – I have a lot of “firsts” here.

2006-2007 INSTALL

2005 had the following gear (left over from my previous car)

Alpine CDA-9851 (among several other models)
Clarion EQS 746
Audio Control EQL (also used this with the factory 6CD changer for a bit as a nice LOC)
Xtant 403A
Massive Audio 6.5" Components
Cerwin Vega VEGA124


I really liked the kit for this car, i did have to modify the EQ opening a bit.
1http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_63_full.jpg

Fabricated a bracket for the two so they wouldn't sag.
2http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_62_full.jpg

Too bad my dash illumination wasn’t blue.
3http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_61_full.jpg

Rear seat is locked in place (need the key to drop) so this was a secure place for the rack.
4http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_1_full.jpg

Covered it in vinyl to match the interior. The factory carpeted trapezoid opening needed to be addressed though.
5http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_53_full.jpg

The speakers were in factory locations, but nothing was deadened.
I tried several sub combinations but without deadening it was empty and resonant.

This was the previous sub – I tried sealed and vented enclosures, this sub is in my Home Theater now.
6http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_92_full.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

2007-2008 Install

I bought some different gear to take the system to new levels. I used a 7930 + G320 back in 1999 as well.


Alpine CDA-7930
Alpine ERA-G320
Alpine 3672 Active Dividing Network
(2) Xtant 403A
Alpine SPX-177R
Alpine SWR-1242



The head unit needed to be integrated into the dash better. I've painted all of the interior trim textured silver and now the plastic mounting piece looked stupid.
1http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_191_full.jpg

The sunglasses holder was removed and a mount made to hold the ERA-G320 display/controller.
2http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_103_full.jpg
3http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_192_full.jpg

Built the amp rack out of 2x4's and 3/4" plywood, painted it gray just because. Filled space behind rack and wheel well with foam
4http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_151_full.jpg
5http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_153_full.jpg

Amps were mounted in place of the side pocket on the drivers side. This kept them out of the way. I was using this box at the time for testing. I hated it facing backwards.
6http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_189_full.jpg

That box was for testing, the Type-R was later firing sealed into the cabin. It was centered, the pic is just at an angle.
7http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_182_full.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

Front Alpine Type-X comps were mounted as shown. I left the corner on so you have to remove the door panel in order to get the grill off, and thus the speaker out.
1http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_175_full.jpg

The angle mounts worked out pretty well.
2http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_178_full.jpg

Type-X crossovers mounted in the glove box for easy tuning. Notice the Clarion EQ isn't in this pic. For a while I ran the 9851 with the G320.
3http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_174_full.jpg

Did a first pass of deadening with the mids. I have more to go back and seal the doors up for good. I used a sheet of polyfill to put between the door panel and door. I ran out of deadening before I could completely coat the door back then.
4http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_95_full.jpg
5http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_102_full.jpg

Also did some polyfill behind the driver siliconed to the deadened outer door skin (does not interfere with window).
6http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_98_full.jpg

The rear deck is pretty empty, I recovered it and removed most of the noise producing parts. No rear speakers.
7http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_110_full.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

I used split loom wrapped in felt to prevent buzzes (felt is secured with masking tape), then secured that to the car with duct tape. I labeled my speaker wires along their run. Everything else was labeled at the ends. I opted for larger split loom to hold multiple wires at once.

I started by laying out my speaker wire for labeling and routing the passenger side:

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608004.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608007.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608010.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608011.jpg

^ I added some Belden 16/4 to feed Tweeters and Midranges for an active 3-way. I kept the Monster 14 AWG for the midbass drivers. They are all routed down the passenger side, in split loom that is then wrapped in felt (to eliminate any buzzing).

Next I went to work on the drivers side:

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608017.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608014.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608015.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608018.jpg

^I have decided to feed my head unit and processors separately. I have Streetwires 10AWG amp kits for stuff like this. One 10 AWG goes to the dash, the other to the trunk. Now my processors won't have to suffer from any voltage drop caused by the amps. I also ran some CAT-5 back there for future controls, switches, etc. All of that is down the drivers side with the original 4 AWG, remote turn-on, and some 4 conductor control wire. The drivers side got some deadening on the floor as well. Felt was used for any wiring in split loom.

Then I got creative for the HU:

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608020.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608021.jpg

^Behind the dash I ran my 10AWG with 8AWG ground. I wired it to a terminal strip and a relay. Now my factory ignition wire runs a relay which switches from the 10AWG. I did this to totally isolate my HU from the factory wiring. Cutting, crimping, heat shrink, zip tie, repeat. I covered up the terminal strip when all was tested and working to prevent accidental shorts. It is fused as well.

[keep_hope_alive]

Since I already had the seats out I figured the center console was a good place to hit up:

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608023.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608026.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608027.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608028.jpg

^I also cleaned up the wiring under the center console. You can see before loom, after loom, and after felt. A portion of the routing needed to switch from one large split loom to three smaller. I have two sets of RCA's, the Ai-NET cable, and two runs of Monster 14/2.

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608029.jpg

^ I go up through the factory openings up high for everything except speaker wires. Those come through the bottom on the passenger side. While it's not necessary, all power is on the drivers side, all audio signals on the passenger or center. low level and speaker level signals are also separate.

[keep_hope_alive]

I made the front and back panels for the sub openings universal so i could flip the box and see if there is any difference with membrane orientation. I had the inside grill for the aperiodic stuffing.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008001.jpg

I re-did the amp rack. I had a pair of 2x4's that got in the way of wiring, and the mounting boards were larger than the amps (on purpose originally) but that made it impossible to get my hands behind them. all that was fixed and i added some mounts for the flush panel.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008006.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008010.jpg

building these were interesting. i've never mounted a changer like this before either - with the brackets under the changer, i had to make a template to get the brackets to line up. i will add some deadener under the brackets to help isolate vibrations.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008018.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008021.jpg

covering the factory panels was a great idea. that hard plastic was buzzing against the aluminum backing on the deadener - especially the piece that is right behind the back seat that covers the angled supports. some pics before i trimmed and after:

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008012.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008014.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

I had to correct my previous vinyl work on my baffle. I didn't have enough cuts in it to make a circle. Before it looked like a decagon or something.

Before:
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008024.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008023.jpg


After:
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk052908001.jpg
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk052908002.jpg


I also finalized how I am going to get all of this mounted together - 3" hex construction grade screws. You can pick up the whole thing from the changer and processor boards now. It was pretty **** solid. I also added deadener under the sub enclosure and between the changer and the brackets. Now I need to finalize mounting it to the baffle and the car.

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk052908004.jpg
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk052908006.jpg

i probably spent 8 hours just brainstorming how the hell i was going to get all of this secured to the vehicle. because everything is nested together and one large piece it was very challenging. i didn't want any screws or fasteners visible for a finished product, especially on the vinyl baffle. tonight was the magic night. from here everything will go much faster, it's basically wiring and the finishing panels.

i believe that when it comes to securing your gear, go above and beyond. these are some pretty sturdy brackets secured with zinc coated lag bolts. it's going to stay put. i am leaving space for my flush mount panel, it will fit behind the bracket, then the bracket will screw through the panel into the box for maximum strength. i'm not concerned about screwing into the box at these locations since they don't actually penetrate the enclosure. the corners of the box are separately sealed to reduce internal volume ;)

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk053008009.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk053008011.jpg

i decided against installing a terminal cup due to recent problems with some. 10 AWG wiring will be sufficient. I sealed the penetrations with silicone.

all of the signal cables come from the top of the passenger side at the rear deck. everything routed nicely and is out of the way. now i have to make my custom RCA cables to feed the amps. i'll make 8 for now but if/when i add another amp on the passenger side i'll need 4 more.

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk053008014.jpg

keep in mind that sub box was an aperiodic setup. the speaker grill behind the sub 1 of 2. the other went on the outside and acoustical fiberglass was sandwiched between.

[keep_hope_alive]

I did this install in 2-3 hour blocks between 11pm and 3am. I used a terminal strip so I have flexibility later on. I also fed both amp remote turn-on wires from here.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk004.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk005.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk006.jpg

I mounted it to the cover for the rear speaker openings.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk011.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk007.jpg


cardboard mock-up. this took me several hours to get perfect (on the first try).
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/July%202008%20trunk/trunkcompletionaug2008001.jpg

plywood cut-out for a test fit.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/July%202008%20trunk/trunkcompletionaug2008003.jpg

carpeted and fit in place.
10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/July%202008%20trunk/trunkcompletionaug2008007.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

This was substantial completion
1http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_204_full.jpg

2http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_209_full.jpg

3http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_206_full.jpg

Adjusted the fuse block and secured the split loom (for now). The spare fits perfectly.
4http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_208_full.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

2009 install

I wanted midbass and midrange in the kick. I wanted them flush. I found a cavity in the floor and exploited it. This was my first time cutting a hole in a car floor. 

driver's side kick stock
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicks0409015.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicks0409011.jpg

cutting a hole :)
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttingdriverside023.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttingdriverside022.jpg

deadened first pass with "thinmat"
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening002.jpg

here you can see power wiring ran to the back. i have two runs of 4 awg, one run of 10 awg, a remote turn-on, and CAT5E.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening001.jpg

testing locations with the drivers
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening011.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening007.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

passenger side
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicks0409016.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicks0409010.jpg

the passenger side is much less forgiving. it has the blower motor and air ducting as well as a small harness/computer.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddash0409005.jpg

same method as the drivers side, yields this
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening006.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening004.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening012.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening008.jpg

relocation of that harness/computer. it fits neatly underneath without modification to the wiring.
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring001.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

then i decided to get the RUX-C701 controller mounted. we pulled the passenger side headliner down. the trusty aluminum tape was used, the cable was routed along channels and clear of factory tubing and wiring. after i took these pics i went back over and made sure the wire was tight to the car. the cable is covered in tech flex.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring002.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring004.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring005.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring006.jpg

the end result is similar to what i did with the ERA-G320 controller. i really like this location. and yes, i did fix the carpet.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring007.jpg

one day i would like to fiberglass a mount that looks a bit nicer than carpet. the carpet is forgiving, and that bulge was easy to fix (it's gone now).
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring009.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

Plans for the 3-way front stage. I wanted these speakers since I first heard them in a sound board and competition car in the late 90’s.

1http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4185/3461/22961730221_large.jpg

i should note that i ran the tweeters on Front 1 output, the midbass on Front 2 output, and the midrange on the Rear outputs. that gave me an independent 20Hz-20kHz 1/3rd octave eq for each midrange driver.

the amps:
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk053008017.jpg

these were the front stage drivers (ran active)
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/audio%20testing/ozaudioCSset014.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/audio%20testing/ozaudioCSset016.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/audio%20testing/ozaudioCSset015.jpg

You’ll see how the sub turned out…

]it took me 45 minutes to strip the car down. that included all seats, all lower trim, center console, lower dash, and everything required to remove the carpet. another 40 minutes and i had the dash ready to be removed. that required the removal of the radio and A/C controls, dash vents, glove box, instrument cluster, part of the steering console, and any other trim panel.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddash0409002.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddash0409001.jpg

unfortunately, removing this dash would require separating over a dozen wire harnesses and making the car immovable until it was returned. as you can see in my earlier pages, i am no stranger to stripping this car down. Honda is AWESOME with their interior quality. when it goes back together it looks factory, nothing is loose or squeaky. and i pulled all of that out with a phillips screw driver, and 10mm socket. the seats and seat belts needed a 14mm socket.

[keep_hope_alive]

most of it was done by a buddy of mine while i was getting ready for a trip out of town. I helped give him direction since i've done this a couple times now, but he did a nice job routing the wires.

the rest of the power wire routing - taped and zip tied in place. power wires are protected with tech flex. i have two different colors for power wire - clear and red. ground wires are brown or black. i wanted different color power wires so i always knew which was which.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring011.jpg

all processor and signal cables go high, same as before. all wires are in split loom except one Ai-Net cable has tech flex. the RUX-C701 control cable travels up the C-pillar.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring017.jpg

more aluminum foil tape to secure the wires. this stuff really works great.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring015.jpg

speaker wires come in low, same as before. what i did improve on was the wires' proximity to factory side panels. i had an issue with my two rear sill panels due to the excessive wiring. that problem is solved now.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring010.jpg

we split the wires to clear the factory mounts and bolts.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring020.jpg

they route on the floor (rear passenger side still needs deadening, i'll just do that when i do my second skin install
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring021.jpg

for now, the wire is coiled up. the lengths are perfect and the routing is away from the center console (which solves some previous problems. the path is where the factory air duct used to be, so i know there is ample space
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring022.jpg

8[/quote] [quote=keep_hope_alive]i also cleaned up the RUX-C701 mount
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring013.jpg

Test fit of changer in glove box
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring025.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

a rotozip and a heavy duty metal cutting bit seemed to do the trick. it made the whole process much faster and easier - except for the flying hot shards of metal. i learned quickly to wear long sleeves. i used an old speaker magnet to help remove the metal shavings from my skin and clothes.

6" in the floor, 4" in the side kick. Once i can get these secured i will play with tweeter locations - on axis vs. off axis. right now i'm planning on being on axis.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids008.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids007.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids006.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids005.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids004.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids003.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids002.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids001.jpg


the factory kick trim piece sticks out 1.5" from the metal since it used to be home to a computer. this means that even with 3/4" MDF I still have half an inch more I can go. I will add another 1/2" MDF baffle that will closely match up with the factory trim. the mid will be recessed in this baffle and secured with T-nuts. the front baffle will be secured with T-nuts to the rear baffle. foam will isolate each piece from each other. I plan on cutting out an opening in the factory trim, inserting a grille and grill cloth. This mid won't take up any more space than factory trim.

The midbass baffle doesn't stick out more than factory foam deadening. I will use a metal grill and acoustically transparent carpet to hide the midbass. i would like the end result to be stealth.

[keep_hope_alive]

I got my kicks vented. hopefully a 2" vent will be sufficient. if not, i'll have to get creative.

driver side
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids031.jpg

driver side
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids033.jpg

passenger side
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids034.jpg

passenger side
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids037.jpg

driver side
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids039.jpg

driver side
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids040.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

I decided on the spare tire well due to it's size and ease. also, it will keep the gear and wiring short and hidden.

i built the framework and amp rack out of 1/2" MDF. i used PL200 and construction grade screws (no drywall screws here) to secure the rack. I used T-nuts and bolts to secure the gear.

end result:
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809030.jpg

framework in place
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809022.jpg

framework underneath - yes i meant for the screw tips to stick out. the heads are countersunk.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809020.jpg

t-nuts and bolts for the H701
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809017.jpg

t-nuts in amp board
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809018.jpg


test fit process
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809004.jpg

have to carpet the work - i hate exposed wood.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809023.jpg

after you carpet, remember to expose your screw holes
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809025.jpg

next time, move the saw outside (even though it was 4am)
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809014.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

i also got my ground worked out. this took about 2-3 hours last night including two hours of brainstorming of how to make this work best. in the end it looks simple, but it's location is perfect to keep all amp grounds short and also let me bolt the ground safely. 1/0 ground to a distro block, 4awg ground to each amp.

as good as it gets - sanded and bolted
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809011.jpg

bolt head and washer - this will be coated over later
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809013.jpg

i didn't want four more holes in the trunk, so i used silicone to adhere the ground block. it isn't going anywhere.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809024.jpg

total assembly
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809010.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

Re-did my kicks and fixed my midrange mount. Andy pointed out that right angles aren't ideal for midrange speakers. he is totally right. so i remade my mounts

speaker gasketing foam on basket
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909018.jpg

t-nuts as usual. notice the cut out for the mounting tabs.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909019.jpg

one 3/4" layer and one 1/2" layer of MDF
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909020.jpg

made the opening on the base larger. it used to be a square. so it's not a perfect circle - neither is the opening in the metal. i prefer non-symmetry for speaker enclosures anyway.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909021.jpg

t-nuts on the base - the speaker baffle attaches to the base with 1/4-20 T-nuts and bolts. i will seal up the base to the car with a combination of silicone, foam, modeling clay, and deadener. then my baffle will be removable. that way i can easily swap out midrange drivers in the future.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909023.jpg

new result is free from unnecessary edges and angles
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909024.jpg

here is a selection of foams i use for gasketing.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909037.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909038.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909035.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909036.jpg

which one i use depends on the application some open cell compresses easily, some sponge-rubber does not, etc. i find it very handy and cheap for helping isolate speakers, baffles, etc. it's also very clean and not at all messy.

[keep_hope_alive]

i mounted and sealed my kick panels. they are now part of the car :)

I love modeling clay. Thanks Team Sound Domain for your recommendations and build logs, i wouldn't have used it without them.

Screws hold the panels down, PL adhesive is used to secure the midbass baffle to the floor, and modeling clay ensures the midrange cavity is smooth and well sealed. I painted the baffles with several coats of primer and paint to help with water resistance. The bolts holding the removable midrange baffle utilize T-nuts in the vehicle baffle. I used the last of my deadener to cover the modeling clay and some select areas. everything is now sealed. I will need to get some Second Skin to cover the whole car eventually.

Passenger side

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed001.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed003.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed010.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed011.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed012.jpg


Driver's Side

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed005.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed006.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed014.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed015.jpg

i wanted to do this when i could let the car sit for more than a day, letting the adhesives cure.

next i need to figure out how i want to route the speaker wires. silly me, i could have just routed them BEFORE i sealed them up. now it will be a bit more involved.

[keep_hope_alive]

more effort was prepping the speaker wires for the front speakers. i am using 4 conductor wiring for the mids and tweeters to neaten the wiring runs. but now they have to split up. so i used my drill to group and twist the wires. they will be put in split loom (as usual) and routed to their respective speakers. here are some close ups of the labeling and twisting. (note, they are labeled Right Mid and Left Mid, Right High, and Left High, you just can't see both lines at that angle).

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed022.jpg

[2IMG]http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed023.jpg[/IMG]

Also, I cut the factory sound absorption to fit around the new baffles. the factory stuff is an inch of foam and a thick layer of vinyl. too bad the whole car wasn't done with this! ignore the random split loom, little is connected or routed yet.

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed025.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed027.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed028.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed029.jpg

i tried something new - pvc cup sized for the flush mounting tweeter cup. some clay to get the overall shape. i need to fiberglass pods this shape next. but for now i'll just test with these (and cover with carpet). the clay won't stay and i'll probably remake these in every aspect. for now they are representative of my overall goals.

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled001.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled002.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

next i made a custom grille for the OZ midbass. i don't like the metal waffle grills, and they are ugly as hell, but in this case i needed something temporary but strong. i used a spare speaker grille laying around for the 4", again, something to protect it. i need to fabricate a complete kick panel cover, that includes the kick door trim.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled008.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled009.jpg

then i covered it with speaker grille cloth. right not it's not secured to anything. ideally, this cloth would be integrated into the carpet, or i'll replace the carpet and hide the speaker grille completely.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled007.jpg

finally, a hole cut in the carpet was coordinated with the grille. it's a tight fit, which helps. not the most cosmetic solution, but it is functional for testing.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled005.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled006.jpg

my rubber floor mats just fit. a trim may be required though.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled011.jpg

Driver's side - same thing.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled013.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled015.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled016.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

Next, i worked on the amps. they are properly wired to the speakers, and to the processor. note how my power supplies are all aligned, power comes from driver's side, 1/0 into Maxi fused distribution block, 4awg to amps, 10awg to processor/relays.

the speaker wires are all aligned in the middle, routed in the middle. all signal cables on passenger side, routed at the rear of the vehicle. i know that it's not much of a concern to cross paths, but i don't anyway.

the RCA's are temporary Monster cable. I have Y-adapters at the amps since everything is bridged mono.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled017.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled018.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled019.jpg

i need to clean the covers
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled037.jpg


I installed the CDA-7930 again, it's simple and clean. i have a CDA-7949 sitting on my desk and in need of a new optical pick-up.
i redid my previous wiring config for the head unit, 10awg to the battery, ignition wire controlling a relay coil. pretty straight forward.

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled027.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled029.jpg

head unit ground - 10awg
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled025.jpg

RUX-C701 controller still mounted in the overhead location
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled033.jpg

a shot of all the front speakers.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled034.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled035.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

Got the kicks cleaned up. Modified the factory kick panel cover. The future for these speakers is a fiberglass grille, i'll use the factory cover as a mold. For now, it's better than it was - even with a black marker outline. :O New carpet is totally flush with factory (and is open weave - acoustically "transparent") BTW the factory carpet was stained when I got it.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks002.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks003.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks005.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks008.jpg

Temporary bass provided by JL12W3D4 running sealed with the same baffle as before.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks001.jpg

Not sure if I shared the 1/0 wiring upgrade, and battery wiring. It's a bit cleaner now. Fuse holder is bolted to the metal battery mount.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks013.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks015.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

Did some cleaning up. I installed the Oz Audio grills, and adjusted the polyfill inside the cavity. I'm still getting a resonance at 140Hz that I can tame with the EQ, but it's a noticeable loss in midbass at that band. I have some ideas for ways to eliminate it. For now, it's still imaging great and sounds very good.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar001.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar003.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar006.jpg

Next, I experimented with covering the Apillar with fabric - this is a fleece type material. I chose black so that they would be less noticeable from outside - blends with the tinting and tweeter. not sure i'm a huge fan of the color since nothing else is black. i'll experiment more with other fabric colors, grill cloths, etc. for now, it's certainly better than it was.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar008.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar012.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar014.jpg

turns out that some time ago the driver's side sunroof drain hose came loose, and was aimed at the midrange baffle. it also turns out that coats of spray paint are NOT sufficient for water resistance.

The result:
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord_kicks_may2010015.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord_kicks_may2010018.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

So I replaced the drain hose in the proper location, made a new midrange mount, dried the carpet, and laid down some BXT II on the baffles. I also added 1.5lbs of non-hardening modeling clay inside the midbass cavity - in the nooks and crannies, along the baffle inside seams, etc. I also put in a ribbed rubber mat to mimic a deflex pad.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdriverkickdeadenedfar.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdriverkickozclose.jpg

Then I did the passenger side as well, new deadening, another 1.5lbs of modeling clay, rubber mat, etc.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofpasskickdeadenedclose.jpg

new baffle is same as previous. i designed these baffles to be removable and swappable - good thing. :)
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofpasskickozclose.jpg

Next plan is to add mass to the front floorboards. After some correspondence with Scott B., i have some ideas to eliminate any modes that may be excited by the midbass.

[keep_hope_alive]

trunk baffle install
the universal, bolt-on TB wall. I used two sandwiched layers of 3/4" MDF, with 1/4-20 T-nuts. I was thinking about one solid, layer, but in order to be tight against the metal it needed to be in pieces.

Here are some build pics. sides are unique, i used a paddle bit to recess the t-nut
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610001.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610003.jpg

wood glue and clamp overnight
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610005.jpg

test fit for the next step
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610007.jpg

tops and bottoms of similar construction
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610010.jpg


fit is so tight, it was able to remain held up with friction (very handy for testing)
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall005.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall002.jpg

i used a board to verify the alignment
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall009.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall008.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

wood glue on the seams and silicone (a lot of silicone) in the middle and along each side where it meets the car. silicone was chosen so the frame has just a bit of play relative to the vehicle.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall011.jpg

tight fit, hand sanded to match all undulations
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall012.jpg

I re-routed my power and control wires to go under the IB board. The speaker wires already are on the passenger side, so I needed to accommodate them anyway. having them go through above the wheel wells made for an awkward routing, that was just in the way. I also cut off 4 feet in length.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall018.jpg

the power wires were secured and cleaned up later.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall022.jpg

passenger side speaker wires low (signal high)
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall016.jpg

I made the bottom in two pieces, supported it, they will be removable, but sealed.

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall026.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall025.jpg

as-is, the floor will be in two parts. That may change soon also, but I do like having the second piece something I can secure and seal the wire penetrations.

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall024.jpg

not near done yet though, I think that MDF is in need of some resin...

[keep_hope_alive]

my first ever attempt at fiberglass was so-so. i'll only get better with time. for now, i have a lot of cleaning up to do - i need a fairly flat face for the IB wall to seal to.

i mixed 4oz, then 4oz more, then 8oz of resin. I was trying to get a feel for how much i was going to use. separate batches gave me enough time to use it all without being in too much of a hurry.

i focused on the lower seams as i see that as the weakest part. but i also did every seam. the lower seams ended up with 4 layers, the other seams had 3. should be sufficient considering it's just supporting a 3/4" IB wall with <500W RMS.

these pics were 1/2 way through. i'll take more after i clean it up a bit. sanding and trimming this in the car is gonna be a messy PITA. thank god for the shop vac.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg010.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg009.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg011.jpg

i ended up using about 4x the amount of fiberglass pieces that are shown here.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg001.jpg

day two of the IB wall fiberglassing

i learned it's a good idea to pre-fit the pieces
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg001-1.jpg

i also used these pieces and had cardboard down that i could just pitch after
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg002-1.jpg

the front bottom was glassed to the vehicle also. i noticed the bottom rung of the opening had some movement to it. this will hold it firm, and also seals it against the vehicle and opening.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg003.jpg

because the fuel pump is under this, i marked it's location. if need be, i'll have to cut out the middle section, then piece in some bracing later. i already have the replacement planned out
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg004.jpg
a pair of box fans have been helping the smell inside the car.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg006-1.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

after a few hours of drying. the flex in the bottom of the opening is completely gone (obviously) even though the fiberglass against the car isn't intended to be structural. my goal to create a good seal is looking like a success.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg005-1.jpg

it looks and feels like a nice seal. you can see my markings for what's below - including my "future saw cut for fuel pump access". i have 1" MDF siliconed to the car floor beneath the rectangles - for support. i can screw into those if necessary.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg008-1.jpg

i started some fill and sanding on the trunk side. this is time consuming working inside the trunk and trying to keep everything clean. i masked off and had to completely vacuum and clean since i'm driving this to work tomorrow. i'm focusing on the trunk side because i want to make a baffle and get a sub playing before i finish the cabin side. i'm concerned about how much the front board has coupled the frame to the car. while sanding i noticed that the middle of the opening excited the floor of the vehicle quite well. that was the only spot that did that, and since it's right over the fuel pump, my only option is to better secure the bottom to the vehicle, on either side of the fuel pump. so i'm curious if that resonant frequency is above or below my intended sub crossover point. so i'm going to make a smooth surface on the trunk side so the sub wall will make a nice seal.

the first couple of layers are down, and have been filed and lightly sanded to reveal places that need more fill. i'll paint it black to identify low spots once the majority of it is nicely covered.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg001-2.jpg

this is the fill piece i'm test fitting. it will screw down to the mounting boards you see in the above pic, and it slides under the frame by about 3/4". i've also thought about not carpeting this now and glassing it to the frame and vehicle as well. we'll see...
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg007.jpg

... and yes, i did keep track of my mounting holes, i'll need to drill them back out, for now they are just smaller. finally reaching some substantial completion.

I did a few more layers of body filler on the trunk side of the baffle - on the top, more on the sides, etc. i sanded the hell out of it to get it mostly smooth - then i decided to just deaden the fawking thing anyway - so little imperfections were pointless to fix. i'll use trusty closed cell foam sandwiched between teh baffle and the frame to create my air-tight seal.

Raammat BXT II on the baffle:
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall022.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall038.jpg

carpet on the baffle and surrounding area
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall042.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall043.jpg

carpet on the factory supports (they will remain for additional strength
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall046.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall045.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

trunk side (the factory panels will be replaced sometime in the near future
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall044.jpg

I have my back seat again! And the view from inside is nice
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall048.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall047.jpg

the first baffle to accept two OZ-300H 12" subs is shown here, but as i'm typing this, the first coat of resin is curing... all holes drilled, t-nuts added, etc. But this is the pattern:
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall035.jpg

The subs will be mounted with the magnets on the cabin side - for two reasons. 1. i love the look of the cones in the trunk - it's just classic. 2. it saves more space that way, and i also like the look of the magnets - but only when i fold the seat down. I love it when a project comes together.

baffle coated in resin, ready to carpet.:
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish001.jpg

10-24 t-nuts for the dub mounting
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish004.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish006.jpg

closed cell foam around the opening for the IB wall
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish012.jpg

the 1/4-20 mounting bolts, need the length for the multiple 3/4" MDF layers and foam and fiberglass, and filler, and deadener, and carpet...
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish014.jpg

waffle grills are ugly - but functional. i need some nice grills
10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish017.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

this turned out much better than expected (dispite being made from many pieces of carpet...
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish015.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish016.jpg

making the sub speaker cables:

solder is your friend
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish018.jpg

heat shrink is your friend
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish021.jpg

split loom is also your friend
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish023.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish024.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish025.jpg


secured to the subs
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish027.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

the trunk needed some final trim panel fabrication, but it's fully functional and sounds great. and you can tell i had a lot of carpet seams, and just pieces covering seams and wires. the final result will have a minimum number of seams and look much nicer than this. RTA analysis to follow:

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish028.jpg

the false floor doesn't fit as i want anymore (too deep), i'll need to make a new one
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish029.jpg

i also need to re-run the RCA's after I make custom ones. I may relocate the 3300c and H701 to the passenger side, allowing for a spare tire again. if that happens, i'll just fabricate both amp mounts from scratch so i have better access to the tail lights (a bit cramped now)
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish031.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish032.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish035.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish036.jpg

made a new floor out of 1/2" MDF, then coated it in resin to help waterproof it
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall002.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall003.jpg

and i painted the bolt heads black - using Testors Black paint
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall005.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

constant work in progress. at this point i am experimenting and learning a lot along the way.

some recent rear door deadening for road noise reduction (sealing door). each door took about 20 minutes. I used Raammat BXT on them.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddoordeadening001.jpg
driver side
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddoordeadening009.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddoordeadening016.jpg

split loom to let cables pass through
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddoordeadening017.jpg

5[/quote] [quote=keep_hope_alive]i finally rebuilt the flush covers around my side amps, this was a long time coming.

i haven't made any sub grills yet, still rockin' the 80's waffle grills. they protect the subs, that's the #1 goal. cosmetics will come over time.

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010006.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010002.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010001.jpg

---------- Post added at 01:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

i also tossed in some rear speakers, re-deadened the rear deck and resealed them. the speakers are in a small sealed cavity. nothing special, i'm trying to decide if i like them like this, or if i need to rebuild the entire rear deck (likely). they are ran off the center output on the H701, 3CH PCM, bandpassed, and delayed. they did help push the sound stage out more and increased some overall definition. if i get a config i like i'll upgrade the drivers.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010008.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010016.jpg

i also installed a new pin switch and two white LED strips for trunk lighting. they work well.

nothing is private with this build, it's a learning experiment. :)

crossover points varied (as did slopes) but were normally at 315Hz and usually 24dB/oct. I also ran it as high as 500Hz - but the 1/2 wavelength associated with the cone separation started to cause issues. Below 315Hz I could hear upper midrange break-up at higher volumes. With a 7" separation of voice coils, the 1/2 wavelength is 328Hz. I wanted a 5kHz mid/tweeter crossover point, but output was lacking above 3kHz from that mid off-axis. I understand that imaging cues are intensity based above 4kHz or so, but I still want representation in both ears.

the phasing issue, i think, is due to the difference in driver separation relative to each seat, and interaction between the pressure waves. I have back wave separation in this build, so that's not an issue. Lower crossover points seem to help, but my 4" reaches a low end limit.

my goal has been a two-seat car, without a center channel. some days i'm close, other days i'm far off. i'm constantly tweaking, saving presets, going back, etc. after the RTA sessions my adjustments are phase, TA, and crossover.

more importantly, the HF roll off of the 4" off axis was also an issue. I want to move the 4" where the 6.5" is, and move the 6.5" to sealed FG enclosures on the door (with driver as low and far as possible). redoing the carpet will coincide with that effort.

currently, i have the 4" off. I am running the Oz 6.5" in the floor as the mid. I have a 6.5" midbass in the door (Massive Audio from the late 90's i had laying around).

Current crossover settings varied between two approaches.

First was using steep slopes and T/A based on two different situations:
1. driver seat only
2. both seats
All crossover slopes are 30dB/oct. I get phasing issues when using different crossover slopes, mostly because of the inherent phase shift with crossover slopes. I've found that if slopes are different, driver phase is important to consider. I like everything in-phase, so consistent slopes help me with that. Crossover points are 56Hz - 180Hz for midbass, 200Hz - 4kHz for mid, 4kHz and up for the tweeters. My sound stage is too narrow with this, too much is centered.

The second approach is a new one - no T/A, 12dB/oct slopes all around. This is where the kick mid shines - the sound stage is much wider without T/A, but too close to me. The mono rear fill xover and T/A comes into play heavily for pushing the sound stage away from me. I will slowly work in some T/A, but probably just the door speakers. The higher crossover points coupled with careful level adjustments are getting me great stage width and height.

Rear fill has been very instrumental in developing the sound stage depth. Luckily, the H701 gives me instant access to level, T/A, phase, and xover - because all of this is tuning by ear (with the help of a recording engineer as co-pilot).

Scott did recommend a two-part epoxy for the floor. I am not against that method. I'm also looking at viscoelastic damping compounds (green glue) and cement board or another high-mass, water resistant product. i'm exciting the floor at 125Hz - i have several approaches to solving this. If I do, i may try the 4" in the side again and use the floor 6.5" as midbass again.
One solution is to increase mass of the floor to lower the resonance frequency. another solution is to introduce transmission loss between the cabin and floor. a third is to reduce excitement in the first place.

I want to increase transmission loss anyway, so a decoupled MLV is planned for the floor. To lower resonance frequency, i could throw 3 layers of BXT II on the floor, but will that really drop it from 125Hz to below 50Hz? Added mass may be the key, but how best to adhere the mass - and ideally, absorb some of the vibration. I'm thinking Green Glue may be a key component - in two places. 1. between the speaker baffle and the vehicle to reduce structure borne excitation. 2. between the added mass on the floor and the floor to absorb the structure borne vibration while increasing transmission loss.

Lastly, I did some testing with 12Hz tones by setting up measurement mics in the cabin and trunk. i measured some interesting data - such as more prominent 2nd and 3rd harmonic distortion in the trunk than in the cabin - by like 20dB difference. More concerning was that with windows up, i could hear the speakers in the car audibly moving as a method of pressure release. This got me thinking that at higher volumes (and higher SPL), you get break-up from the driver itself, but you also get distortion from the subs pressurizing the cabin and manipulating the drivers. A cracked window wasn't enough to reduce the cone movement, the window had to be 1/2way down, at least before it was inaudible. I've always recognized that rear deck speakers commonly suffered distortion from trunk subs. But i hadn't thought that pressurization of the cabin affects speakers in doors, kicks, etc. to that extent. The 12Hz tone was at 105dB when the cones moved audibly (by audibly, i'm referring to a flapping sound that seemed to be cone excursion related). I'll perform more testing regarding the difference in harmonic distortion (by lowering the rear seat and also reversing the driver orientation - since it's possible that the rear seat (with armrest down) provided some form of aperiodic filtering. I'll also more closely monitor cone movement, as while audible, the cones were not visible at the time.

[keep_hope_alive]

2011

So as a result of some recent "changes" that I will describe later, i've decided to run door midbass until I build the FG door pods. which, due to winter, won't be started until late spring 2012.

but first, I needed to actually seal up the door this time. before i just had some "thinmat" around the speaker that just simply pealed off (apparently roofing material doesn't stick in the cold).

I used Raammat BXT since i had about 50 sq. ft. of note, having used this and BXT II, there is a HUGE advantage to the BXT II. BXT II is better in every way.

today i'll make a new speaker baffle and move on to the next door.

cleaned and ready, i used a mild mix of oxy clean and some nitrile gloves to clean all metal surfaces.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening001.jpg

started with about 8 sq. ft. on the inside of the door cavity
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening004.jpg

multiple layers in the middle of the door
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening005.jpg

then i moved to the inner skin
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening003.jpg

for the large opening i had a few options. option 1 is to make a fiberglass cover, option 2 is to make a sheet metal cover, option 3 is to make due with materials you have on hand. i chose option 3 since it was around midnight.

i used some thin board and made sure to have deadening on both sides. in this case, i ran a piece on the inside that overlapped the metal on each side of the opening, then used gorilla glue to hold the board to the deadening/metal around the opening, then covered with a few layers of deadener.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/CopyofCopyoffrontdoordeadening008.jpg

i repeated the process
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening004.jpg

mostly finished, i did some trimming along the outer edges
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening012.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening006.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening007.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

so, replacing front stock speakers in your accord... i wrote this as instructional so i can share my process. in all, about 7 hours on the front driver door, not including wiring.

factory comparison with a late 90's Massive Audio CD6 woofer
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening002.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening003.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening004.jpg

some tools required - a jig saw and drill are essential.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening007.jpg

i find that the holes you cut in sub boxes can be reused for door speakers. here we have 3/4" MDF.

start by tracing the factory speaker mount, then superimpose the new speaker basket outline. determine the outer boundaries of the new mount - making sure you leave ample room for at least four bolts. then mark your driver cut-out in the center - i used the factory cardboard that held the driver for shipping as my template.

secure the wood so you can make your cuts
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening009.jpg

drill a hole on the inside of the center cut out, and on the outside of any sharp corners
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening010.jpg

always cut the center out first so you can easily secure the overall piece of wood
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening011.jpg

test fit your driver
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening012.jpg[/quote]

[keep_hope_alive]

finish cutting out the rest
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening014.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening016.jpg

drill out your mounting holes (driver and baffle) and use t-nuts or hurricane nuts for driver mounting. MDF doesn't work well with standard wood screws.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening018.jpg

test fit your piece and use tape to help align the mount. mark your mounting holes so you have a clean cut you need to remove deadener BEFORE you drill - as it makes a mess. use brake-cleen or gasoline to remove deadener from the drill bit.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening019.jpg

test fit the piece - if it's good then secure with bolts. in this case, i am using 1-1/2" 8-32 bolts with a nut and washer inside the door. you tighten with a screw driver and socket driver.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening020.jpg

start by working a layer of deadener around the inside seam where the baffle meets the door
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening022.jpg

once it is secure, you can deaden over this piece to ensure it is water proof.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening023.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening024.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening025.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

and then wire and mount the driver
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening028.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening029.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening030.jpg

lastly, open cell foam around the driver to facilitate a seal against the door panel (i tightened up the gap)
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening031.jpg
5[/quote] [quote=keep_hope_alive]passenger side - pretty much the same thing. another ~20 sq. ft. of Raammat BXT.

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/passdoordeadening049.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/passdoordeadening051.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/passdoordeadening052.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

updated system wiring diagram. I am looking for a diferent set of midbass drivers and a different set of rear fill speakers. i'm not opposed to going back to Oz or finding something different.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordAudioSystem2011.jpg[/quote] [quote=keep_hope_alive]some recent work to experiment with speaker locations and soundstage width.

i have my midbass in the door now so my 6.5" holes in the floor were empty... until now. I made a ring to mount some mids in that location. I recess mounted them so i had both protection and off-axis control
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1237.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1236.jpg

both mids can be played, and since they are mostly in the same location, the soundstage differences should be based on speaker orientation.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1242.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1241.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1243.jpg

same for the driver's side
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1238.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1240.jpg

yea, i still have the carpet over the drivers - this is how it looks after another winter.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1245.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1246.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

decided to take advantage of 55 deg weather late 2011

new full size spare
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk005.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk006.jpg

CCF the floor
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk008.jpg

glad i save these cut outs
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk007.jpg

CCF the cutout top and bottom
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk009.jpg

secured the tools to the board. either i have a phillips screw driver on hand (tweaker in the console) or i just break the plastic clips
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk016.jpg


next i disassembled the floor amp rack since i already had boards sized with t-nuts. worked great
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk017.jpg

hot ****, it fits
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk018.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk019.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

now do i put the H701 under the amp or do i store the jack under it?
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk020.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk021.jpg

new ground location - machine screw into tapped hole that is not exposed to the elements underneath
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres1029.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres1028.jpg

what prompted my tweeter project was waiting for the resin to dry on these boards.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres1027.jpg

these are going to be on each side of the trunk for securing the H701, power, ground, and all wiring. i wanted a wood surface to secure zip tie mounts that wasn't on vehicle metal. 1/2" MDF coated in resin for water proof-ness.

resin on 1/2" MDF in place
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2007.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2008.jpg

carpet with Super 77
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2013.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2009.jpg

my goal this time was to have nicer wire management in the trunk. this isn't done yet, i need to neatly secure the wires as they extend behind the amp rack.
10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2010.jpg

I am basically re-running every wire in the trunk

[keep_hope_alive]

we talk a lot about capacitors. i tell a lot of people not to use them. there are many reasons for this, and my goal is to maximize their investment. i have invested in my electrical system, now i am trying a cap done as correct as possible - by putting it as close to the leads as possible. these 4awg sections were soldered (Weller torch) to spade and ring terminals.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2011.jpg

amp cover stops at the same plane as the fan on the right, but it is cut out from the factory to clear wiring. the cap terminals are behind the amp terminals - no worries about shorts or anything.

did some progress this morning. too bad i have to go into work, otherwise i could finish today.

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunkfinishing002.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunkfinishing001.jpg

you can see black zip ties on the carpeted board above the power wires, i drilled two holes and zip tied the power wire to the bottom of the board. that way i have strain relief for the distribution block inputs.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunkfinishing003.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunkfinishing004.jpg

i secured wires with zip tie mounts screwed to either the vehicle or wood. everything is secure.

left to do is the ground for the 3300c and redo the remote turn-on wiring. not much.

then i will have power and can redo all gain settings with a scope.

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordTrunk004.jpg

I had to redo the remote wire
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordTrunkremote.jpg


quickly revised the floor and trimmed around the 3300c. not final but it was enough for a road trip
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordTrunk003.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordTrunk001.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

Two mics are shown - one in passenger seat and one in drivers seat. Mics are at teh headrest.

I noticed some distortion and some harshness that I couldn't tune out. Then i realized that stupid MX (Media eXpander) was turned on. Not shure when or why. So I flattened the EQ and reset the turning. I noticed that I didn't need much EQ - it is mostly flat - maybe 6 bands are adjusted for the mids and tweeters.

All crossovers are set, I tuned without the sub. I do have some sub adjustments left for a better blend.

Soundstage height is great, nice and wide... and it does two seats quite well.


This was after I flattened the EQ - in 1/3rd octave without sub
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_midhigh_3rd.jpg

This is same as above in 1/24th octave without sub
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_midhigh.jpg

This is everything running - 1/3rd octave with sub
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_all_3rd.jpg


This is the end result after some tuning effort - without sub
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_midhigh_3rdtuned.jpg


This is the same as above - current tuning in 1/24th octave without sub.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_midhigh_24thtuned.jpg

New battery - Die Hard Platinum P-4 Group 34/78DT

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordbattery005.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordbattery004.jpg

The 135 Min. Reserve Capacity and Warranty were the selling points. My RedTop was 7 years old and no longer resting at >12V.

Power Ratings:
Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate: 68
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F): 880
Reserve Capacity (RC): 135 min.

It is made by Odyssey and is AGM

some stuff i've been doing:
finally carpeted my stupid trunk lid. i was also trying to watch my kids so i went quickly. i can go back and fix the cuts in a few places. better than it was.
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011001.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011006.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

redid some wiring
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011028.jpg

was this
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011018.jpg

now this
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011026.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011027.jpg

working on a custom radio mount. it will be painted to match and incorporate gauges. this was the first attempt using a sheet of ABS
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011016.jpg

cleaned up wiring behind the head unit
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011024.jpg

there's a lot going on there
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011025.jpg

new sub grills (from Madisound)
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters006.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters005.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

also, some tweeter experiments
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters003.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters004.jpg

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters009.jpg

I started making another set recently.

I buy solid wooden spheres ($1.50) - like knobs or post tops, at my local Hobby Lobby. i hollow out a cylinder, (using Forstner bits, hole saws, dremel, etc.), drill a hole for threaded rod, and then... i'm not sure where to go next for a nice finish.

tools i use
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012011.jpg

i used double-sided foam tape to hold the sphere in the vice without making marks. works well.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012018.jpg

I had to dremel sand the opening a bit larger in order to fit. the Forstner bit was either too small or too large.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012020.jpg

rods screwed in
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012021.jpg

wires soldered on tweeters
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012023.jpg

going with hammered silver paint (to match my painted interior)
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012028.jpg

painted and waiting (pic taken 2 hours ago)
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012035.jpg

i haven't decided how best to finish off the mount. there is a gap around the tweeter face due to it's construction. the widest flange is in the middle. so i need something to create a smooth transition. and then the grill - the Vifa doesn't have one. i have one, but it's larger than necessary.

I used some rope caulk to temporarily hold the tweeters in place and also hold the grill on. i want to test before i make these permanant.

i'm also taking a different approach. instead of having the grill flush with the sphere, i have the actual tweeter cone flush and the grill protrudes - should be better, we'll see.

[keep_hope_alive]

these vifa are tough since you have to make your own grill. normal tweeters are MUCH easier to finish off.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012001.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012002.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012003.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012004.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012005.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012012.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012011.jpg

not bad, i want to get them finished a bit better
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012011.jpg



So, now you are up to speed with this 6 year build and its many variations. Everything is subject to change and new front speaker locations are planned next – starting with new doors.

[big_ol_meat]

noob build log

[Infaredsinsor]

I have a 02 honda accord and I thought this build was going to be inspirational, but instead it gave me a headache. All hats off to a clean install, but go ahead with your bad self. Just over kill to me. I hope its a great sounding SQ setup after all that labor.

[wenn_du_weinst]

very nice build log.

[keep_hope_alive]

I have a 02 honda accord and I thought this build was going to be inspirational, but instead it gave me a headache. All hats off to a clean install, but go ahead with your bad self. Just over kill to me. I hope its a great sounding SQ setup after all that labor.

overkill is relative. it is an experiment. i've tried a lot of different things. all of the variations sounded good. But some were better than others. Non one in their right mind would do everything I did. Pick a few things and run with it. The second system with the Type-X comps was good and simple.

The kicks have been a love/hate relationship, love the soundstage but hate the 120Hz resonance down there. I started tearing the doors apart today, undid the baffles and removed deadener around the opening, gonna cut it out larger and angle the driver mount up and back.

[$LICK CALIFA$]

d@mn nice ongoing build... like they say its never perfect!

[trumpet]

Do you still use the PHX-H701 and RUX-C701 combo?
edit: sorry, I just looked at page 3 again and saw the 701 in your trunk.

[keep_hope_alive]

Do you still use the PHX-H701 and RUX-C701 combo?
edit: sorry, I just looked at page 3 again and saw the 701 in your trunk.

actually, no i don't use the H701. I sold it and the controller. I loved using it, and i was tweaking with it (while driving) almost constantly. that was one issue - i tweak. another is noise - the darn things are noisy. lastly, i wanted to simplify. i do miss it sometimes, like when i had 10 drivers up front and played with 3 at a time - the H701 would have been handy there.

but all of that processing isn't necessary. i remember how we rolled in the 90's and we were simpler. and it sounded great. i'm trying to use less processing and focus on install methods. i may be looking for some active 24dB/oct crossovers though. i've tried a lot of stuff in this car...

so, onto some work i did last night...

say good by to all of this effort
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/passdoordeadening051.jpg

that baffle was restricting rear airflow, and didn't allow for deeper woofers. this is for midbass - so size matters.

removed the speaker baffle in the doors. removing the BXT was time consuming, luckily it was cold. i have 3-4 layers around teh speakers.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012018.jpg

i want to put larger woofers in, and the factory hole is too small, and the larger drivers are 3" deep. after test fits, i removed metal
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012021.jpg

i quickly ripped out a ring (jig saw and 3/4" birch)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012022.jpg

and did a test fit with window down
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012023.jpg


as far as depth goes -
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012009.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012010.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012006.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012003.jpg

the new speaker mount will be 1" thick on top and about 2" thick on the bottom. i'll use 1/2" MDF and make a base then a ring, then fill and glass in place so i have a cone shaped mount that has plenty of airflow. i'll need to trim some door panel (in front of the pocket) then glass a new grill onto the door. my goal is for a factory look - so you'll just see a contiguous piece with an integral grill.

like everything else in this car, i'm making it up as i go.

[fish1234]

Which drivers are you using, that should look really nice once completed. Excited to see pics!

[Bettr n' Revrse]

I loved this build... I remember you sending me pics when I wanted to do an IB as well

[sobe3yourself.]

i would pay to sit in your car for an hour with all of my favorite music

[keep_hope_alive]

i would pay to sit in your car for an hour with all of my favorite music

right now it would be a waste of money... it sounds decent but floor midbass is resonant so i have filters set to prevent it from being a huge issue. the door midbass will be nice, then i can redo the kicks for mids with better aiming. i am very excited to get the doors done... but today is a day to relax.

[fannin88]

Not to sound overly-gay...But I absolutly love when i see the word "build" then your name involved somewhere.

[keep_hope_alive]

Lol.i just play. I get excited when I see names like Chris Yato and Steve Brown

I'm an amateur. But I'm glad my experiments give ideas to others, my goal is for ya'll to do a better job executing it.

[maylar]

You do nice work mang. Lots of insirational stuff here. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us.

[focused313]

the cleanliness of this install, as well as the great pics and explanations, has led me the decision that I must pull everything out of my car (if I can get those front seats out) and rerun every dang wire in there. I also am inspired to make a beauty panel as soon as I learn how to cut around my ports correctly.

Thank you for this. One of the best logs I've seen.

[keep_hope_alive]

tip for beauty panels: make a mock up out of cardboard first. don't worry about wasting cardboard, remake until it is perfect - then you have a template to cut the wood. for tough areas, make the mockup in sections (to work with smaller cardboard pieces). you can eyeball the first pass, then make notes on it for how many inches out each section needs to be, then remake. obviously, measure as much as you can to get as close as you can.

once you have the cardboard mock up - trace on your wood stock. then smooth the line by hand (cardboard is jagged).

when i run wire, i am not afraid of rerunning if i don't like how it lays (i.e. it is on top of wires that i feel would be better to be under). i don't worry about time and focus on how OEM would run it. i try to logically route away from pinch points and since split loom is cheap, i loom all wires for the entire run, even under carpet. OEM does, so do I. i use aluminum foil tape to secure wires and loom down. it sticks well. i secure wires as often as necessary, but usually every 6-8". i use black zip ties where possible when i can tie to factory wires. on car metal: i don't use screw holders or the stick-on zip tie holders since they are all bulky. i do use screw loops or tie holders on boards and racks. i do use wire strain relief, especially on any moving parts.

removing seats is easy. removing panels is easy. removing the center console is easy. removing carpet is easy. should take 45 min. you can drive without carpet and panels while you wire the car. just note if you start the car without seats (and seats have airbags), your SRS light will come on and your dealer will need to turn it off.

[keep_hope_alive]

Which drivers are you using?

when?

haha. i have tried 4 different midbass drivers, 5 different midrange, and 4 different tweeters.

i liked the OZ Audio drivers, but i was persuaded to sell. right now, my plan is using the following 4 ohm drivers (about $160 in drivers):

Vifa OT19NC00
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/images/products/preview/ot19nc00.jpg

Dayton Reference RS-100
http://www.rumoh.nl/1013-570-large/dayton-rs100-4.jpg

Silver Flute W17RC38-04
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/images/products/preview/w17rc38-08.jpg


reasons:
I've ran the Vifa ring radiator back when i ran the Alpine SPX-177R. they are better in spheres.

I like Dayton audio drivers and i like a dedicated full range (midrange) in the kicks. i will locate these more on axis (and play with aiming) and may run with just a high pass. they are good to 10kHz on-axis but with my current install they roll off above 3kHz so i don't have a low pass filter on them. we'll see how they blend with the tweeters when on-axis. right now, you cannot locate them - everything is above the dash.

I heard great things about the Silver Flute drivers in a midbass application - provided they are well installed. we'll see how i like them using the door cavity. I may also pick up the Dayton Reference RS-150 and try both.

[fish1234]

Those Vifa's look to perform very well on axis, I'll be excited to see them mounted in spheres!

[keep_hope_alive]

Those Vifa's look to perform very well on axis, I'll be excited to see them mounted in spheres!

They are. See previous pages. :)

[pieper88]

Can I just drop my Escape off to you have you build it lol?

[keep_hope_alive]

:)

I mostly work at night

[matt_bennett05]

I still find it hard to have that much outright dedication put into every detail, including the preventative maintainence for unexpected issues that you could run into. If I had half of the patience and knowledge on a few things I've seen I would be more than happy.

Guess I ought to hang on D.I.Y. sometime. :thumbsup: Very indepth informative work man.

[keep_hope_alive]

I still find it hard to have that much outright dedication put into every detail, including the preventative maintainence for unexpected issues that you could run into. If I had half of the patience and knowledge on a few things I've seen I would be more than happy.

Guess I ought to hang on D.I.Y. sometime. :thumbsup: Very indepth informative work man.

Thanks. Patience is key, you cannot feel that something isn't worth the time/effort. Don't hesitate to redo something or to experiment. You learn during the process. gotta keep hope alive!

[knightrider2k6]

awesome. awesome work. very very detailed. me likey. thanks for the info and pics.

[SuperSaeYoung]

I've seen your work on honda forums awhile back and loved it.

[murph]

:wowflash: I have no words to say...

[keep_hope_alive]

finally got around to putting the silver flute 6.5" midbass in the doors. required cutting metal, fabricating a new mount to make room for the massive basket/magnet, and cutting the door panel. next is making a new door panel grille to retain a factory look.

used 3/4" birch for the base and 1/2" MDF for the ring.

but you have to start somewhere, and that's with mockups. i previously removed the stock grill.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121302.jpg

with ring to see future panel conflicts. depth required the door panel to be modified.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121302a.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121317.jpg

test fit
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121319.jpg

drilling holes
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121342.jpg

hurricane nuts 8-32
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121345.jpg

driver test fit
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121357.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121357b.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

panel test fit, had to make a few passes to get the clearance right, hence the odd shape on the one side. had door panel seam conflicts
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121409.jpg

some of these are with my camera phone, hence any blurry pics
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121412.jpg

coated in resin
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass008.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass007.jpg

passenger side bolted in place, green glue damping compound, Raammat BXT for seals
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass001.jpg

green glue on ring too
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass003.jpg

mounted/wired
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass005.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass006.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

the Green Glue was quite runny on this hot day.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass004.jpg

used closed cell foam for my rain barrier ring inside the door. this is an application of Green Glue on the back of the mounting ring.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass009.jpg

driver side is the same as passenger
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass010.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass011.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass012.jpg

used a dremel with a cutting wheel for the first pass on the door panel. final cutting may be larger just for consistency of lines... we'll see. for now, i can take my 700 mile trip with new speakers to listen to
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass013.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass014.jpg

how the amps are currently wired
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass015.jpg
An Alpine DRE-A200 providing an extra active crossover split between mids and tweeters.



start to finish, the pics you see were done this weekend while also spending 8 hours wiring a boat, playing with the kids, and hanging with friends. i think it was about 7 hours of work total.

[keep_hope_alive]

after 700 miles of listening (in the past 24 hours) i am very, very happy. they speakers sound great. excellent midbass. SOOOO much better than the floors were. doors are silent, no rattles or buzzed. not thrilled with them above 1kHz (despite having a "smooth response" to 5kHz). this may likely be the door itself.

sound stage is still good. not as deep as it was with floor midbass but close. the improvement in tonality is worth it. i will adjust the mids next.

I need to get my mids more on-axis to improve response from 1kHz-3kHz. they loose too much detail being that far off-axis. and they roll off at 3kHz. not that i want a lot more from them, but I do want the ability to increase tweeter/mid crossover points.

[CAT MAN]

fvck me and call me sally why am i always looking at your build

[keep_hope_alive]

fvck me and call me sally why am i always looking at your build

hell, just the other day i went through it. like a trip down memory lane for me. i still can't believe i've done half this stuff. the TB wall alone was such an effort. now i just enjoy it, forgetting how much **** effort it was.

it's nice once you finish somthing you like, you don't think about it anymore. but the stuff you don't like haunts you. my doors were haunting me.

[keep_hope_alive]

I'm gonna try something out - i recorded the system in the Accord using a Zoom H2 stereo recorder. The Zoom H2 has built-in compression (which was set on Studio) and four mics (i used the front 2). Held at my neck while i drove from work to home. It's about a 5 minute drive so enough time for a song. Windows up, A/C on.

320kbps mp3 due to file size (12mb) being reasonable.

Jurassic 5 - Power In Numbers - "React" and "A Day at the Races"
the pause at 2:31 is me changing the 9887 T/A preset from 2 seat (equal left and right) to 1 seat (aligned to driver's seat)

I don't normally listen to hip-hop, but since most of you do, I started with this.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=9BE5812AB35E1D9E!354

[keep_hope_alive]

I added three more tracks to the folder above.

Tool - Ticks and Leeches
Tool - Right In Two
Pink Floyd - The Wall Disc 2 (3 tracks)

All while driving 65 on the interstate. i should probably replace them with recordings done in my garage so the noise floor is a bit lower, but it gives a good indication of what deadening has done to lower noise. it's fairly quiet for interstate driving in a Honda.

Any feedback is appreciated. Let me know if this effort is a waste of time.

[husker77]

I listened to one of the pink floyd tracks, it sounds good to me. Considering that it sounded good coming through my laptop speakers it should be really good in the car. Might have to steal my kids headphones to listen to the other tracks.

[keep_hope_alive]

Yea, full range headphones help. The bass reproduction is decent given the mic choice.

What I think is neat is the recording is in stereo using a stereo mic arrangement, so the recordings produce an image similar to that in the car, when played on a capable system.

[keep_hope_alive]

this is something i haven't seen in a build log yet. pvc encased fiberglass absorption. i've seen people use foams or polyfill but those have issues. foams aren't absorptive enough (especially if they are closed cell). polyfill isn't absorptive much as-is. the doors get wet so any fibrous material will hold water = mold.

in architectural acoustics, we use pvc encased fiberglass batt to cheaply add a lot of absorption to a room.

i've had this idea for a while, finally felt like doing it.

i started with 1 mil PVC sheeting - it is normally used as a drop cloth for painting. it was stupid cheap, like $3 for a roll. i have some fiberglass batt insulation as well. fiberglass batt is one of the absolute best materials for sound absorption. just about anything else performs worse. the concern is that you don't want it getting wet.

i measured my doors, they have two metal tubes that provide structural strength. i will fit absorption between these. if i had 2" thick bags, they wouldn't interfere with the window. my doors were already sealed up, luckily i used several smaller panels to cover the gap, so i just cut and peeled one of them back:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags001.jpg

i needed 6" tall, 30" long, and 2" thick bags. i cut out 18" tall by 33" long sheets of PVC.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags004.jpg

i wrapped and compressed it for covering. i used 3M Duct Packing Tape to create the seal.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags007.jpg

i made three of them for the passenger door
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags008.jpg

then i placed them and used aluminum foil tape to hold them in place between the bars
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags012.jpg



the window guide came down in the middle. this was a snag/tear possibility. so i covered that portion with aluminum foil tape to protect it.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags009.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags013.jpg

all done, 100% coverage along the entire outer door skin, with a fourth smaller bag stuffed up near the hinge airspace
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags014.jpg

closed up with a few layers
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags015.jpg

driver mounted.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags016.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

before i do the driver's side i'll use the RTA and 1/24th oct resolution to measure drivers (untreated) vs. passenger (treated). my measurement locations, driver settings, etc. will be equivalent enough to allow for an accurate comparison. the goal with this is to improve midrange response as well as absorb a nasty 125Hz (ish) spike. i hope to test tonight, then do the driver's door.

if all goes as planned, i will recommend this for anyone sealing up their door. this was easy to do, took about 5 minutes per bag an would be very easy to do before the door is sealed if you're deadening it anyway. i expect this to greatly improve response for the door woofers.

[murph]

before i do the driver's side i'll use the RTA and 1/24th oct resolution to measure drivers (untreated) vs. passenger (treated). my measurement locations, driver settings, etc. will be equivalent enough to allow for an accurate comparison. the goal with this is to improve midrange response as well as absorb a nasty 125Hz (ish) spike. i hope to test tonight, then do the driver's door.

if all goes as planned, i will recommend this for anyone sealing up their door. this was easy to do, took about 5 minutes per bag an would be very easy to do before the door is sealed if you're deadening it anyway. i expect this to greatly improve response for the door woofers.

That was a great idea. I love this build log.

[keep_hope_alive]

thanks. the car sounds **** good. but rather than EQ some issues, i want to fix them with install.

[heebs 09gts]

Nice build thread to read, though it took me 2 days to get through it!! Has inspired me to make sure I'm doing a nice clean install like you.

Learning lots here, Keep it up!

[shpatb]

This is just freaking awesome, I want to take a month off and just redo my entire car.... this is just amazing.

[keep_hope_alive]

thanks guys. it's a labor of love. i've seen better, but it sounds really good for the investment in equipment. once i finalize my speaker install/locations, i'll work on final cosmetics.

[keep_hope_alive]

put this in the driver door day (pass door was done previously)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfgbatt002.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfgbatt005.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfgbatt011.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

Data was taken by using the SoundDevices USBPre line level rca input from the Alpine CDA-9887 output directly. Levels are relative. Autosound 2000 Track 18 (un-correlated pink noise) was used as the source.


I am using the Alpine DRE-A200 as a crossover between my tweets and mids off the Front outputs on the 9887. you can see the 12dB/oct slope of that crossover.

There is the same consistent drop at the crossover frequency (6 and 12 are the same, 18 and 24 are the same at the xover point). Certainly, when choosing crossover slopes and points, the drop at the crossover point should be taken into consideration - resulting in some overlap with the crossover points.

4kHz crossover point, slope varies 6 to 24dB/oct. Front output of 9887
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_4kHz_HPF.jpg

1kHz crossover point, slope varies 6 to 24dB/oct. Front output of 9887
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_1kHz_HPF.jpg

200Hz crossover point, slope varies 6 to 24dB/oct. Rear output of 9887
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_200Hz_HPF.jpg

50Hz HPF, 250Hz LPF, slope varies from Full to 6, 12, 18 & 24dB/oct. Rear output of 9887
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_50Hz_250Hz_BPF-1.jpg

Then i played with the mic for a bit. Played with crossover settings. I had the laptop in the passenger seat, mic at my head (moving around to average out peaks/valleys). This is the front stage only (no sub). Crossover points are:
Midbass: no HPF (Full), 315Hz LPF 18dB/oct
Mid: 250Hz HPF 18dB/oct, 3.5kHz LPF 12dB/oct
Tweet: 3.5kHz HPF 12dB/oct
One line is measured 1/24th oct, the other line is a smoothed version of that line.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_frontstage-1.jpg

naturally, with the subs the low end is (much) higher, but I wasn't running the sub during the RTA testing today and was more interested in midbass response.

here are individual graphs of crossover slopes. This is what i've been listening to, set by ear. It is close to what I expected, though i'm more then 3dB down at the xover points.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/3wayRTA.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

yesterday i decided to dress up the door woofers by putting some vinyl around them. started by taking a cutting wheel on a dremel and improving on the cuts i made previously.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills004_zps511f998a.jpg

did the passenger side, wasn't happy with the vinyl. did the driver side, added foam behind the vinyl to flush up with the door panel. still wasn't happy. it was better, but not what i really wanted.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills002_zpsa27dea52.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills003_zps952fff57.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills006_zps82bcfab5.jpg

you can see that while the foam keeps the vinyl tight, it also bulges.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills008_zps1ddf4250.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

so around midnight i decided to take a 10" woofer grill and make a new door panel grill.

i've had this idea in my head for a long time, but i figured i would need a 12" grill in order to cover the way i wanted. turns out, a 10" grill was just perfect if i covered it.

i began by cutting and bending, test fitting, cutting and bending some more, test fitting some more, etc.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills010_zps47314649.jpg

you can see that the door panels were cut in order to make room for the lowered/deeper woofers
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills005_zpsa3368e1b.jpg

so i wanted the grill to come behind the pocket, but then follow the contour of the factory opening. the front corner would not be covered due to the smaller grill size.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills009_zpsef7a42e8.jpg

i was going to use grill cloth, but that would be too thin and show the edges and frame of the grill. a round hole expanded metal grill could be done to look nice and more polished (in the future maybe). i decided to use open weave carpet. having the color different is fine, i have silver accents in the interior.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills011_zps0ae8b1ab.jpg

i trimmed some more, fitted some more, and got the grills to secure to the door panel. then i used trusty aluminum foil tape to secure the carpet. both have some of the rubber grill edging where it would contact the vinyl.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills016_zpsc00ed07e.jpg

the result was pretty much what i wanted to achieve (at 2am)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills017_zpsf179b522.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills018_zps82653056.jpg

[keep_hope_alive]

final product in the car.
passenger side
http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills012_zps87b9faf4.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills015_zps36e08fd5.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills014_zpsd046bb4c.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills013_zpsfec70481.jpg

driver side

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills019_zps74ff4838.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills020_zps40d05e77.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills021_zps148779dd.jpg

[pickup1]

is there any drivers in the floor anymore?

[keep_hope_alive]

is there any drivers in the floor anymore?

the Dayton RS100 are in the side kick location. the Massive CK6 woofers are still in the floor, but not being used. That location is just too small for good midbass. I may rebuild those kicks to change midrange aiming. But for now, everything is as I want it to be. You'd never know the mids were on in the kicks. Everything is above the dash.

[itsblown]

This build log never ceases to amaze me, unfortunately I have trouble reading the above graphs did you see a flatter response after installing the fiberglass bat?

[keep_hope_alive]

This build log never ceases to amaze me, unfortunately I have trouble reading the above graphs did you see a flatter response after installing the fiberglass bat?

Adding fiberglass smoothed high frequency response and allowed lower frequency response. I don't have great graphs of that, I hastily finished the batt install but didn't take the measurements I wanted to show before and after. Doh!

BUt when I compare older measurements with new, these are clear.

[itsblown]

Adding fiberglass smoothed high frequency response and allowed lower frequency response. I don't have great graphs of that, I hastily finished the batt install but didn't take the measurements I wanted to show before and after. Doh!

BUt when I compare older measurements with new, these are clear.
Ohh alright I ask because I'm in the process of dealing up a friends trailblazer doors. Did you notice a decrease in road noise?

[keep_hope_alive]

no, adding fiberglass won't cut down on road noise too much - it will absorb sound inside the door cavity if you have the door well deadened and sealed - which is a good thing.

[freudie1]

Hey there.

I have a 98 Accord (Sedan) that I have put extensive work into audio wise.

Couple of thoughts to consider:

I'd recommend ditching the doors in favor of floor mounted (facing up) mids (8"). I'm using the infamous JBL 2118h's that way. There are several DIYMA members showing examples (I'll take pics later).

Also, have you considered mini-horns? The Accord dash is fantastic for mounting them and you can score HLCD's and old ID horn bodies on the cheap. Two-way in this small a car works well.

Digging your IB setup in the trunk. Very creative. I'm subless at the moment. Do you find the volume a bit on the boomy side or is it more SQ based?

Have you considered a car computer? I've replaced a metric ton of gear with a single "carputer". It an e5200 cpu with 4GB of memory, 80GB of SSD storage, all running in a single custom "amp like" enclosure mounted in the left side of the trunk much like your Xtants. I use an M-Audio Delta 1010LT PCI sound card plus AudioMulch to run it all. Independent EQ's, xovers, time delay, even level controls all in the digital domain and NO extra hardware. Truly amazing what technology replaces.

Whole thing is controlled by a custom 7" touchscreen in the dash with an 1100 nit capacative display.

I'll take some pics as you have some elements I've used and some I think you'd do well by (especially since we basically have the same car).

[keep_hope_alive]

Hey there.

thanks!

you may notice in earlier pictures that I have a spot for a 6.5" in the floor in addition to the 4" in the kick. I ran that for a while. I went back to the doors for several reasons.

i have considered horns, and I have no issue designing/fabricating custom horn bodies - but cutting the dash is something i am not going to do at this point and time. i almost had the dash out, but realized then that i would re-design the A/C ductwork to incorporate more customization and halted that effort. the spheres sound beautiful.

the IB wall is pure SQ. it is accurate, not boomy in the least. it sounds really nice.

i constantly consider a car PC. i've looked at a Raspberry Pi combined with a MiniDSP. I've looked at other options as well. As an EE, the idea is fairly easy to implement. Maybe next year. I am interested in what touch-screen you are using. That is the key component that I haven't found yet. The cost of SSD is becoming very attractive now.

Certainly, start a build log in the forum and post the link in this thread. I love to see other projects! But keep your build separate so everyone can comment on it without confusion.

[Smitty]

mad props sir...

I wish we were closer together so I could take a listen... I love SQ builds

[keep_hope_alive]

some recent measurements running a 2-way front. turned off the RS100 mids and ran the Silver Flute's up to 4kHz.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/RTAresults120412.png

has a smooth slope, which i like. i still have decent high frequency hearing. this is without any EQ.

top two lines are Lz max for a few Beastie Boys tracks. overall level (un-weighted) was around 130 dB - the top end of my listening volume.

bottom 3 are pink noise with and without subs. i also have two volume levels so linearity is evident.

[keep_hope_alive]

finally got to use my circle jigs. i've had these things for 3 years. i've had a few routers, but nothing that i wanted to use with the jigs. finally found a BNIB plunge on a CL ad, $35 couldn't pass it up. worked like a charm using a 1/4" straight bit.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_00-18-29_501.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_00-21-12_122.jpg

the wood is 1" thick with 1/4" MDF on both sides and 1/2" ply in the middle. i had some laying around and the dimensions were just larger than what i needed anyway.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-07_23-31-06_266.jpg

i am firing forward this time so i can review the sub more accurately.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_03-17-37_118.jpg
i am leaving the speaker wire for the other configuration in place for now.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_03-18-03_877.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_03-19-53_31.jpg

i have the Ultra Subs A-12 to write a review of it. It ran in my Home Theater for a month, getting decent exercise. Now I have some windshield time ahead of me, so i'll see how it does in the IB wall.

[keep_hope_alive]

took some updated RTA measurements.

i've disconnected the kick panel speakers. both the 6.5" and 4" are off.

i have some Vifa and Peerless 2" full range speakers laying around. I previously tried the Vifa in the factory dash corners and the Peerless in the apillars (that previously held my Oz tweeters). they were wired in parallel.

I ran all four 2" mids up front with no tweeters. the 6.5's in the doors handled midbass. there was overlap between midbass and mids.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accordRTA020613.png

while this looks fine and dandy, it didn't sound that great. the highs were not detailed, just a lot of reflected noise.

so i put my Vifa tweeter spheres back in, wired a 4.5uF cap in series with the tweeters and wired that in parallel with the 2" Vifa mid.
I got this:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accordRTA2020613.png

which is much nicer. lots of detail.


both configurations had a nice sound stage - very well centered, good depth, height, and width. but the second config was just better in every way.

[keep_hope_alive]

this was the previous configuration with all four 2" mids.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2013-01-27_11-35-26_749-2.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2013-01-27_11-35-15_631-2.jpg

the mids in the apillars weren't doing it for me. so my newer apillars with the spheres are back in.
yes, i have two sets of apillars, one with spheres and one with pods. makes changing easy.

[keep_hope_alive]

you may hardly notice a difference in the two RTA graphs, but they sounded completely different.

just proof that no one can judge a car from RTA alone. so much more goes into it.

[AxT4430]

you may hardly notice a difference in the two RTA graphs, but they sounded completely different.

just proof that no one can judge a car from RTA alone. so much more goes into it.

eyeballing those values, they look **** near identical .. especially in the range you were referring to

[gckless]

you may hardly notice a difference in the two RTA graphs, but they sounded completely different.

just proof that no one can judge a car from RTA alone. so much more goes into it.

Well there's minor differences, but noticeable. Graph overall is shaped the same, but the bottom one is overall louder, and has differences in a few frequencies. Really interesting to see that vs. what you experienced while listening.