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keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:34 PM
This is gonna be LONG.

I bought a 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 VTEC in the summer of 2005, it had 95k mi. and I paid around $10k. I have just under 160k mi on it now, all recommended maintenance performed and no issues. I like the car. This build log is a chronological history of what I’ve tried. I am showing you the history to give ideas – the prupose of this is to inspire. My personal skills have improved since the beginning of this build – I have a lot of “firsts” here.

2006-2007 INSTALL

2005 had the following gear (left over from my previous car)

Alpine CDA-9851 (among several other models)
Clarion EQS 746
Audio Control EQL (also used this with the factory 6CD changer for a bit as a nice LOC)
Xtant 403A
Massive Audio 6.5" Components
Cerwin Vega VEGA124


I really liked the kit for this car, i did have to modify the EQ opening a bit.
1http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_63_full.jpg

Fabricated a bracket for the two so they wouldn't sag.
2http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_62_full.jpg

Too bad my dash illumination wasn’t blue.
3http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_61_full.jpg

Rear seat is locked in place (need the key to drop) so this was a secure place for the rack.
4http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_1_full.jpg

Covered it in vinyl to match the interior. The factory carpeted trapezoid opening needed to be addressed though.
5http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_53_full.jpg

The speakers were in factory locations, but nothing was deadened.
I tried several sub combinations but without deadening it was empty and resonant.

This was the previous sub – I tried sealed and vented enclosures, this sub is in my Home Theater now.
6http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_92_full.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:34 PM
2007-2008 Install

I bought some different gear to take the system to new levels. I used a 7930 + G320 back in 1999 as well.


Alpine CDA-7930
Alpine ERA-G320
Alpine 3672 Active Dividing Network
(2) Xtant 403A
Alpine SPX-177R
Alpine SWR-1242



The head unit needed to be integrated into the dash better. I've painted all of the interior trim textured silver and now the plastic mounting piece looked stupid.
1http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_191_full.jpg

The sunglasses holder was removed and a mount made to hold the ERA-G320 display/controller.
2http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_103_full.jpg
3http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_192_full.jpg

Built the amp rack out of 2x4's and 3/4" plywood, painted it gray just because. Filled space behind rack and wheel well with foam
4http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_151_full.jpg
5http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_153_full.jpg

Amps were mounted in place of the side pocket on the drivers side. This kept them out of the way. I was using this box at the time for testing. I hated it facing backwards.
6http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_189_full.jpg

That box was for testing, the Type-R was later firing sealed into the cabin. It was centered, the pic is just at an angle.
7http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_182_full.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:34 PM
Front Alpine Type-X comps were mounted as shown. I left the corner on so you have to remove the door panel in order to get the grill off, and thus the speaker out.
1http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_175_full.jpg

The angle mounts worked out pretty well.
2http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_178_full.jpg

Type-X crossovers mounted in the glove box for easy tuning. Notice the Clarion EQ isn't in this pic. For a while I ran the 9851 with the G320.
3http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_174_full.jpg

Did a first pass of deadening with the mids. I have more to go back and seal the doors up for good. I used a sheet of polyfill to put between the door panel and door. I ran out of deadening before I could completely coat the door back then.
4http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_95_full.jpg
5http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_102_full.jpg

Also did some polyfill behind the driver siliconed to the deadened outer door skin (does not interfere with window).
6http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_98_full.jpg

The rear deck is pretty empty, I recovered it and removed most of the noise producing parts. No rear speakers.
7http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_110_full.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:35 PM
I used split loom wrapped in felt to prevent buzzes (felt is secured with masking tape), then secured that to the car with duct tape. I labeled my speaker wires along their run. Everything else was labeled at the ends. I opted for larger split loom to hold multiple wires at once.

I started by laying out my speaker wire for labeling and routing the passenger side:

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608004.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608007.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608010.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608011.jpg

^ I added some Belden 16/4 to feed Tweeters and Midranges for an active 3-way. I kept the Monster 14 AWG for the midbass drivers. They are all routed down the passenger side, in split loom that is then wrapped in felt (to eliminate any buzzing).

Next I went to work on the drivers side:

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608017.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608014.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608015.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608018.jpg

^I have decided to feed my head unit and processors separately. I have Streetwires 10AWG amp kits for stuff like this. One 10 AWG goes to the dash, the other to the trunk. Now my processors won't have to suffer from any voltage drop caused by the amps. I also ran some CAT-5 back there for future controls, switches, etc. All of that is down the drivers side with the original 4 AWG, remote turn-on, and some 4 conductor control wire. The drivers side got some deadening on the floor as well. Felt was used for any wiring in split loom.

Then I got creative for the HU:

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608020.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608021.jpg

^Behind the dash I ran my 10AWG with 8AWG ground. I wired it to a terminal strip and a relay. Now my factory ignition wire runs a relay which switches from the 10AWG. I did this to totally isolate my HU from the factory wiring. Cutting, crimping, heat shrink, zip tie, repeat. I covered up the terminal strip when all was tested and working to prevent accidental shorts. It is fused as well.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:35 PM
Since I already had the seats out I figured the center console was a good place to hit up:

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608023.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608026.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608027.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608028.jpg

^I also cleaned up the wiring under the center console. You can see before loom, after loom, and after felt. A portion of the routing needed to switch from one large split loom to three smaller. I have two sets of RCA's, the Ai-NET cable, and two runs of Monster 14/2.

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/042608%20wiring/accordwiring042608029.jpg

^ I go up through the factory openings up high for everything except speaker wires. Those come through the bottom on the passenger side. While it's not necessary, all power is on the drivers side, all audio signals on the passenger or center. low level and speaker level signals are also separate.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:35 PM
I made the front and back panels for the sub openings universal so i could flip the box and see if there is any difference with membrane orientation. I had the inside grill for the aperiodic stuffing.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008001.jpg

I re-did the amp rack. I had a pair of 2x4's that got in the way of wiring, and the mounting boards were larger than the amps (on purpose originally) but that made it impossible to get my hands behind them. all that was fixed and i added some mounts for the flush panel.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008006.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008010.jpg

building these were interesting. i've never mounted a changer like this before either - with the brackets under the changer, i had to make a template to get the brackets to line up. i will add some deadener under the brackets to help isolate vibrations.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008018.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008021.jpg

covering the factory panels was a great idea. that hard plastic was buzzing against the aluminum backing on the deadener - especially the piece that is right behind the back seat that covers the angled supports. some pics before i trimmed and after:

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008012.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008014.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:36 PM
I had to correct my previous vinyl work on my baffle. I didn't have enough cuts in it to make a circle. Before it looked like a decagon or something.

Before:
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008024.jpg
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunkprogress052008023.jpg


After:
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk052908001.jpg
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk052908002.jpg


I also finalized how I am going to get all of this mounted together - 3" hex construction grade screws. You can pick up the whole thing from the changer and processor boards now. It was pretty **** solid. I also added deadener under the sub enclosure and between the changer and the brackets. Now I need to finalize mounting it to the baffle and the car.

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk052908004.jpg
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk052908006.jpg

i probably spent 8 hours just brainstorming how the hell i was going to get all of this secured to the vehicle. because everything is nested together and one large piece it was very challenging. i didn't want any screws or fasteners visible for a finished product, especially on the vinyl baffle. tonight was the magic night. from here everything will go much faster, it's basically wiring and the finishing panels.

i believe that when it comes to securing your gear, go above and beyond. these are some pretty sturdy brackets secured with zinc coated lag bolts. it's going to stay put. i am leaving space for my flush mount panel, it will fit behind the bracket, then the bracket will screw through the panel into the box for maximum strength. i'm not concerned about screwing into the box at these locations since they don't actually penetrate the enclosure. the corners of the box are separately sealed to reduce internal volume ;)

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk053008009.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk053008011.jpg

i decided against installing a terminal cup due to recent problems with some. 10 AWG wiring will be sufficient. I sealed the penetrations with silicone.

all of the signal cables come from the top of the passenger side at the rear deck. everything routed nicely and is out of the way. now i have to make my custom RCA cables to feed the amps. i'll make 8 for now but if/when i add another amp on the passenger side i'll need 4 more.

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk053008014.jpg

keep in mind that sub box was an aperiodic setup. the speaker grill behind the sub 1 of 2. the other went on the outside and acoustical fiberglass was sandwiched between.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:37 PM
I did this install in 2-3 hour blocks between 11pm and 3am. I used a terminal strip so I have flexibility later on. I also fed both amp remote turn-on wires from here.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk004.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk005.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk006.jpg

I mounted it to the cover for the rear speaker openings.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk011.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/060808_accord_trunk007.jpg


cardboard mock-up. this took me several hours to get perfect (on the first try).
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/July%202008%20trunk/trunkcompletionaug2008001.jpg

plywood cut-out for a test fit.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/July%202008%20trunk/trunkcompletionaug2008003.jpg

carpeted and fit in place.
10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/July%202008%20trunk/trunkcompletionaug2008007.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:37 PM
This was substantial completion
1http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_204_full.jpg

2http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_209_full.jpg

3http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_206_full.jpg

Adjusted the fuse block and secured the split loom (for now). The spare fits perfectly.
4http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/2296000-2296999/2296173_208_full.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:37 PM
2009 install

I wanted midbass and midrange in the kick. I wanted them flush. I found a cavity in the floor and exploited it. This was my first time cutting a hole in a car floor. 

driver's side kick stock
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicks0409015.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicks0409011.jpg

cutting a hole :)
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttingdriverside023.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttingdriverside022.jpg

deadened first pass with "thinmat"
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening002.jpg

here you can see power wiring ran to the back. i have two runs of 4 awg, one run of 10 awg, a remote turn-on, and CAT5E.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening001.jpg

testing locations with the drivers
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening011.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening007.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:38 PM
passenger side
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicks0409016.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicks0409010.jpg

the passenger side is much less forgiving. it has the blower motor and air ducting as well as a small harness/computer.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddash0409005.jpg

same method as the drivers side, yields this
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening006.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening004.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening012.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickcuttinganddeadening008.jpg

relocation of that harness/computer. it fits neatly underneath without modification to the wiring.
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring001.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:38 PM
then i decided to get the RUX-C701 controller mounted. we pulled the passenger side headliner down. the trusty aluminum tape was used, the cable was routed along channels and clear of factory tubing and wiring. after i took these pics i went back over and made sure the wire was tight to the car. the cable is covered in tech flex.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring002.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring004.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring005.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring006.jpg

the end result is similar to what i did with the ERA-G320 controller. i really like this location. and yes, i did fix the carpet.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring007.jpg

one day i would like to fiberglass a mount that looks a bit nicer than carpet. the carpet is forgiving, and that bulge was easy to fix (it's gone now).
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring009.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:38 PM
Plans for the 3-way front stage. I wanted these speakers since I first heard them in a sound board and competition car in the late 90’s.

1http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4185/3461/22961730221_large.jpg

i should note that i ran the tweeters on Front 1 output, the midbass on Front 2 output, and the midrange on the Rear outputs. that gave me an independent 20Hz-20kHz 1/3rd octave eq for each midrange driver.

the amps:
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/052008%20trunk/accordtrunk053008017.jpg

these were the front stage drivers (ran active)
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/audio%20testing/ozaudioCSset014.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/audio%20testing/ozaudioCSset016.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/audio%20testing/ozaudioCSset015.jpg

You’ll see how the sub turned out…

]it took me 45 minutes to strip the car down. that included all seats, all lower trim, center console, lower dash, and everything required to remove the carpet. another 40 minutes and i had the dash ready to be removed. that required the removal of the radio and A/C controls, dash vents, glove box, instrument cluster, part of the steering console, and any other trim panel.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddash0409002.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddash0409001.jpg

unfortunately, removing this dash would require separating over a dozen wire harnesses and making the car immovable until it was returned. as you can see in my earlier pages, i am no stranger to stripping this car down. Honda is AWESOME with their interior quality. when it goes back together it looks factory, nothing is loose or squeaky. and i pulled all of that out with a phillips screw driver, and 10mm socket. the seats and seat belts needed a 14mm socket.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:39 PM
most of it was done by a buddy of mine while i was getting ready for a trip out of town. I helped give him direction since i've done this a couple times now, but he did a nice job routing the wires.

the rest of the power wire routing - taped and zip tied in place. power wires are protected with tech flex. i have two different colors for power wire - clear and red. ground wires are brown or black. i wanted different color power wires so i always knew which was which.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring011.jpg

all processor and signal cables go high, same as before. all wires are in split loom except one Ai-Net cable has tech flex. the RUX-C701 control cable travels up the C-pillar.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring017.jpg

more aluminum foil tape to secure the wires. this stuff really works great.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring015.jpg

speaker wires come in low, same as before. what i did improve on was the wires' proximity to factory side panels. i had an issue with my two rear sill panels due to the excessive wiring. that problem is solved now.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring010.jpg

we split the wires to clear the factory mounts and bolts.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring020.jpg

they route on the floor (rear passenger side still needs deadening, i'll just do that when i do my second skin install
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring021.jpg

for now, the wire is coiled up. the lengths are perfect and the routing is away from the center console (which solves some previous problems. the path is where the factory air duct used to be, so i know there is ample space
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring022.jpg

8[/quote] [quote=keep_hope_alive]i also cleaned up the RUX-C701 mount
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring013.jpg

Test fit of changer in glove box
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/processorcontrolwiring025.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:39 PM
a rotozip and a heavy duty metal cutting bit seemed to do the trick. it made the whole process much faster and easier - except for the flying hot shards of metal. i learned quickly to wear long sleeves. i used an old speaker magnet to help remove the metal shavings from my skin and clothes.

6" in the floor, 4" in the side kick. Once i can get these secured i will play with tweeter locations - on axis vs. off axis. right now i'm planning on being on axis.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids008.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids007.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids006.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids005.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids004.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids003.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids002.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids001.jpg


the factory kick trim piece sticks out 1.5" from the metal since it used to be home to a computer. this means that even with 3/4" MDF I still have half an inch more I can go. I will add another 1/2" MDF baffle that will closely match up with the factory trim. the mid will be recessed in this baffle and secured with T-nuts. the front baffle will be secured with T-nuts to the rear baffle. foam will isolate each piece from each other. I plan on cutting out an opening in the factory trim, inserting a grille and grill cloth. This mid won't take up any more space than factory trim.

The midbass baffle doesn't stick out more than factory foam deadening. I will use a metal grill and acoustically transparent carpet to hide the midbass. i would like the end result to be stealth.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:39 PM
I got my kicks vented. hopefully a 2" vent will be sufficient. if not, i'll have to get creative.

driver side
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids031.jpg

driver side
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids033.jpg

passenger side
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids034.jpg

passenger side
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids037.jpg

driver side
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids039.jpg

driver side
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkickmids040.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:39 PM
I decided on the spare tire well due to it's size and ease. also, it will keep the gear and wiring short and hidden.

i built the framework and amp rack out of 1/2" MDF. i used PL200 and construction grade screws (no drywall screws here) to secure the rack. I used T-nuts and bolts to secure the gear.

end result:
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809030.jpg

framework in place
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809022.jpg

framework underneath - yes i meant for the screw tips to stick out. the heads are countersunk.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809020.jpg

t-nuts and bolts for the H701
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809017.jpg

t-nuts in amp board
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809018.jpg


test fit process
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809004.jpg

have to carpet the work - i hate exposed wood.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809023.jpg

after you carpet, remember to expose your screw holes
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809025.jpg

next time, move the saw outside (even though it was 4am)
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809014.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:40 PM
i also got my ground worked out. this took about 2-3 hours last night including two hours of brainstorming of how to make this work best. in the end it looks simple, but it's location is perfect to keep all amp grounds short and also let me bolt the ground safely. 1/0 ground to a distro block, 4awg ground to each amp.

as good as it gets - sanded and bolted
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809011.jpg

bolt head and washer - this will be coated over later
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809013.jpg

i didn't want four more holes in the trunk, so i used silicone to adhere the ground block. it isn't going anywhere.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809024.jpg

total assembly
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordtrunk0809010.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:40 PM
Re-did my kicks and fixed my midrange mount. Andy pointed out that right angles aren't ideal for midrange speakers. he is totally right. so i remade my mounts

speaker gasketing foam on basket
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909018.jpg

t-nuts as usual. notice the cut out for the mounting tabs.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909019.jpg

one 3/4" layer and one 1/2" layer of MDF
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909020.jpg

made the opening on the base larger. it used to be a square. so it's not a perfect circle - neither is the opening in the metal. i prefer non-symmetry for speaker enclosures anyway.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909021.jpg

t-nuts on the base - the speaker baffle attaches to the base with 1/4-20 T-nuts and bolts. i will seal up the base to the car with a combination of silicone, foam, modeling clay, and deadener. then my baffle will be removable. that way i can easily swap out midrange drivers in the future.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909023.jpg

new result is free from unnecessary edges and angles
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909024.jpg

here is a selection of foams i use for gasketing.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909037.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909038.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909035.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909036.jpg

which one i use depends on the application some open cell compresses easily, some sponge-rubber does not, etc. i find it very handy and cheap for helping isolate speakers, baffles, etc. it's also very clean and not at all messy.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:40 PM
i mounted and sealed my kick panels. they are now part of the car :)

I love modeling clay. Thanks Team Sound Domain for your recommendations and build logs, i wouldn't have used it without them.

Screws hold the panels down, PL adhesive is used to secure the midbass baffle to the floor, and modeling clay ensures the midrange cavity is smooth and well sealed. I painted the baffles with several coats of primer and paint to help with water resistance. The bolts holding the removable midrange baffle utilize T-nuts in the vehicle baffle. I used the last of my deadener to cover the modeling clay and some select areas. everything is now sealed. I will need to get some Second Skin to cover the whole car eventually.

Passenger side

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed001.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed003.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed010.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed011.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed012.jpg


Driver's Side

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed005.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed006.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed014.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed015.jpg

i wanted to do this when i could let the car sit for more than a day, letting the adhesives cure.

next i need to figure out how i want to route the speaker wires. silly me, i could have just routed them BEFORE i sealed them up. now it will be a bit more involved.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:41 PM
more effort was prepping the speaker wires for the front speakers. i am using 4 conductor wiring for the mids and tweeters to neaten the wiring runs. but now they have to split up. so i used my drill to group and twist the wires. they will be put in split loom (as usual) and routed to their respective speakers. here are some close ups of the labeling and twisting. (note, they are labeled Right Mid and Left Mid, Right High, and Left High, you just can't see both lines at that angle).

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed022.jpg

[2IMG]http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed023.jpg[/IMG]

Also, I cut the factory sound absorption to fit around the new baffles. the factory stuff is an inch of foam and a thick layer of vinyl. too bad the whole car wasn't done with this! ignore the random split loom, little is connected or routed yet.

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed025.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed027.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed028.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofaccordkick0909sealed029.jpg

i tried something new - pvc cup sized for the flush mounting tweeter cup. some clay to get the overall shape. i need to fiberglass pods this shape next. but for now i'll just test with these (and cover with carpet). the clay won't stay and i'll probably remake these in every aspect. for now they are representative of my overall goals.

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled001.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled002.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:41 PM
next i made a custom grille for the OZ midbass. i don't like the metal waffle grills, and they are ugly as hell, but in this case i needed something temporary but strong. i used a spare speaker grille laying around for the 4", again, something to protect it. i need to fabricate a complete kick panel cover, that includes the kick door trim.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled008.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled009.jpg

then i covered it with speaker grille cloth. right not it's not secured to anything. ideally, this cloth would be integrated into the carpet, or i'll replace the carpet and hide the speaker grille completely.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled007.jpg

finally, a hole cut in the carpet was coordinated with the grille. it's a tight fit, which helps. not the most cosmetic solution, but it is functional for testing.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled005.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled006.jpg

my rubber floor mats just fit. a trim may be required though.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled011.jpg

Driver's side - same thing.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled013.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled015.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled016.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:42 PM
Next, i worked on the amps. they are properly wired to the speakers, and to the processor. note how my power supplies are all aligned, power comes from driver's side, 1/0 into Maxi fused distribution block, 4awg to amps, 10awg to processor/relays.

the speaker wires are all aligned in the middle, routed in the middle. all signal cables on passenger side, routed at the rear of the vehicle. i know that it's not much of a concern to cross paths, but i don't anyway.

the RCA's are temporary Monster cable. I have Y-adapters at the amps since everything is bridged mono.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled017.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled018.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled019.jpg

i need to clean the covers
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled037.jpg


I installed the CDA-7930 again, it's simple and clean. i have a CDA-7949 sitting on my desk and in need of a new optical pick-up.
i redid my previous wiring config for the head unit, 10awg to the battery, ignition wire controlling a relay coil. pretty straight forward.

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled027.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled029.jpg

head unit ground - 10awg
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled025.jpg

RUX-C701 controller still mounted in the overhead location
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled033.jpg

a shot of all the front speakers.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled034.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accordkicksinstalled035.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:42 PM
Got the kicks cleaned up. Modified the factory kick panel cover. The future for these speakers is a fiberglass grille, i'll use the factory cover as a mold. For now, it's better than it was - even with a black marker outline. :O New carpet is totally flush with factory (and is open weave - acoustically "transparent") BTW the factory carpet was stained when I got it.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks002.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks003.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks005.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks008.jpg

Temporary bass provided by JL12W3D4 running sealed with the same baffle as before.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks001.jpg

Not sure if I shared the 1/0 wiring upgrade, and battery wiring. It's a bit cleaner now. Fuse holder is bolted to the metal battery mount.
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks013.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord2010kicks015.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:42 PM
Did some cleaning up. I installed the Oz Audio grills, and adjusted the polyfill inside the cavity. I'm still getting a resonance at 140Hz that I can tame with the EQ, but it's a noticeable loss in midbass at that band. I have some ideas for ways to eliminate it. For now, it's still imaging great and sounds very good.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar001.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar003.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar006.jpg

Next, I experimented with covering the Apillar with fabric - this is a fleece type material. I chose black so that they would be less noticeable from outside - blends with the tinting and tweeter. not sure i'm a huge fan of the color since nothing else is black. i'll experiment more with other fabric colors, grill cloths, etc. for now, it's certainly better than it was.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar008.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar012.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Accord_Apillar014.jpg

turns out that some time ago the driver's side sunroof drain hose came loose, and was aimed at the midrange baffle. it also turns out that coats of spray paint are NOT sufficient for water resistance.

The result:
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord_kicks_may2010015.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accord_kicks_may2010018.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:43 PM
So I replaced the drain hose in the proper location, made a new midrange mount, dried the carpet, and laid down some BXT II on the baffles. I also added 1.5lbs of non-hardening modeling clay inside the midbass cavity - in the nooks and crannies, along the baffle inside seams, etc. I also put in a ribbed rubber mat to mimic a deflex pad.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdriverkickdeadenedfar.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdriverkickozclose.jpg

Then I did the passenger side as well, new deadening, another 1.5lbs of modeling clay, rubber mat, etc.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofpasskickdeadenedclose.jpg

new baffle is same as previous. i designed these baffles to be removable and swappable - good thing. :)
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofpasskickozclose.jpg

Next plan is to add mass to the front floorboards. After some correspondence with Scott B., i have some ideas to eliminate any modes that may be excited by the midbass.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:43 PM
trunk baffle install
the universal, bolt-on TB wall. I used two sandwiched layers of 3/4" MDF, with 1/4-20 T-nuts. I was thinking about one solid, layer, but in order to be tight against the metal it needed to be in pieces.

Here are some build pics. sides are unique, i used a paddle bit to recess the t-nut
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610001.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610003.jpg

wood glue and clamp overnight
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610005.jpg

test fit for the next step
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610007.jpg

tops and bottoms of similar construction
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IB0610010.jpg


fit is so tight, it was able to remain held up with friction (very handy for testing)
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall005.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall002.jpg

i used a board to verify the alignment
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall009.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall008.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:43 PM
wood glue on the seams and silicone (a lot of silicone) in the middle and along each side where it meets the car. silicone was chosen so the frame has just a bit of play relative to the vehicle.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall011.jpg

tight fit, hand sanded to match all undulations
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall012.jpg

I re-routed my power and control wires to go under the IB board. The speaker wires already are on the passenger side, so I needed to accommodate them anyway. having them go through above the wheel wells made for an awkward routing, that was just in the way. I also cut off 4 feet in length.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall018.jpg

the power wires were secured and cleaned up later.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall022.jpg

passenger side speaker wires low (signal high)
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall016.jpg

I made the bottom in two pieces, supported it, they will be removable, but sealed.

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall026.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall025.jpg

as-is, the floor will be in two parts. That may change soon also, but I do like having the second piece something I can secure and seal the wire penetrations.

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall024.jpg

not near done yet though, I think that MDF is in need of some resin...

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:43 PM
my first ever attempt at fiberglass was so-so. i'll only get better with time. for now, i have a lot of cleaning up to do - i need a fairly flat face for the IB wall to seal to.

i mixed 4oz, then 4oz more, then 8oz of resin. I was trying to get a feel for how much i was going to use. separate batches gave me enough time to use it all without being in too much of a hurry.

i focused on the lower seams as i see that as the weakest part. but i also did every seam. the lower seams ended up with 4 layers, the other seams had 3. should be sufficient considering it's just supporting a 3/4" IB wall with <500W RMS.

these pics were 1/2 way through. i'll take more after i clean it up a bit. sanding and trimming this in the car is gonna be a messy PITA. thank god for the shop vac.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg010.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg009.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg011.jpg

i ended up using about 4x the amount of fiberglass pieces that are shown here.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg001.jpg

day two of the IB wall fiberglassing

i learned it's a good idea to pre-fit the pieces
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg001-1.jpg

i also used these pieces and had cardboard down that i could just pitch after
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg002-1.jpg

the front bottom was glassed to the vehicle also. i noticed the bottom rung of the opening had some movement to it. this will hold it firm, and also seals it against the vehicle and opening.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg003.jpg

because the fuel pump is under this, i marked it's location. if need be, i'll have to cut out the middle section, then piece in some bracing later. i already have the replacement planned out
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg004.jpg
a pair of box fans have been helping the smell inside the car.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg006-1.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:44 PM
after a few hours of drying. the flex in the bottom of the opening is completely gone (obviously) even though the fiberglass against the car isn't intended to be structural. my goal to create a good seal is looking like a success.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg005-1.jpg

it looks and feels like a nice seal. you can see my markings for what's below - including my "future saw cut for fuel pump access". i have 1" MDF siliconed to the car floor beneath the rectangles - for support. i can screw into those if necessary.
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg008-1.jpg

i started some fill and sanding on the trunk side. this is time consuming working inside the trunk and trying to keep everything clean. i masked off and had to completely vacuum and clean since i'm driving this to work tomorrow. i'm focusing on the trunk side because i want to make a baffle and get a sub playing before i finish the cabin side. i'm concerned about how much the front board has coupled the frame to the car. while sanding i noticed that the middle of the opening excited the floor of the vehicle quite well. that was the only spot that did that, and since it's right over the fuel pump, my only option is to better secure the bottom to the vehicle, on either side of the fuel pump. so i'm curious if that resonant frequency is above or below my intended sub crossover point. so i'm going to make a smooth surface on the trunk side so the sub wall will make a nice seal.

the first couple of layers are down, and have been filed and lightly sanded to reveal places that need more fill. i'll paint it black to identify low spots once the majority of it is nicely covered.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg001-2.jpg

this is the fill piece i'm test fitting. it will screw down to the mounting boards you see in the above pic, and it slides under the frame by about 3/4". i've also thought about not carpeting this now and glassing it to the frame and vehicle as well. we'll see...
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg007.jpg

... and yes, i did keep track of my mounting holes, i'll need to drill them back out, for now they are just smaller. finally reaching some substantial completion.

I did a few more layers of body filler on the trunk side of the baffle - on the top, more on the sides, etc. i sanded the hell out of it to get it mostly smooth - then i decided to just deaden the fawking thing anyway - so little imperfections were pointless to fix. i'll use trusty closed cell foam sandwiched between teh baffle and the frame to create my air-tight seal.

Raammat BXT II on the baffle:
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall022.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall038.jpg

carpet on the baffle and surrounding area
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall042.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall043.jpg

carpet on the factory supports (they will remain for additional strength
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall046.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall045.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:45 PM
trunk side (the factory panels will be replaced sometime in the near future
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall044.jpg

I have my back seat again! And the view from inside is nice
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall048.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall047.jpg

the first baffle to accept two OZ-300H 12" subs is shown here, but as i'm typing this, the first coat of resin is curing... all holes drilled, t-nuts added, etc. But this is the pattern:
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall035.jpg

The subs will be mounted with the magnets on the cabin side - for two reasons. 1. i love the look of the cones in the trunk - it's just classic. 2. it saves more space that way, and i also like the look of the magnets - but only when i fold the seat down. I love it when a project comes together.

baffle coated in resin, ready to carpet.:
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish001.jpg

10-24 t-nuts for the dub mounting
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish004.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish006.jpg

closed cell foam around the opening for the IB wall
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish012.jpg

the 1/4-20 mounting bolts, need the length for the multiple 3/4" MDF layers and foam and fiberglass, and filler, and deadener, and carpet...
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish014.jpg

waffle grills are ugly - but functional. i need some nice grills
10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish017.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:45 PM
this turned out much better than expected (dispite being made from many pieces of carpet...
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish015.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish016.jpg

making the sub speaker cables:

solder is your friend
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish018.jpg

heat shrink is your friend
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish021.jpg

split loom is also your friend
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish023.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish024.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish025.jpg


secured to the subs
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish027.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:45 PM
the trunk needed some final trim panel fabrication, but it's fully functional and sounds great. and you can tell i had a lot of carpet seams, and just pieces covering seams and wires. the final result will have a minimum number of seams and look much nicer than this. RTA analysis to follow:

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish028.jpg

the false floor doesn't fit as i want anymore (too deep), i'll need to make a new one
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish029.jpg

i also need to re-run the RCA's after I make custom ones. I may relocate the 3300c and H701 to the passenger side, allowing for a spare tire again. if that happens, i'll just fabricate both amp mounts from scratch so i have better access to the tail lights (a bit cramped now)
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish031.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish032.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish035.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_finish036.jpg

made a new floor out of 1/2" MDF, then coated it in resin to help waterproof it
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall002.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall003.jpg

and i painted the bolt heads black - using Testors Black paint
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall005.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:46 PM
constant work in progress. at this point i am experimenting and learning a lot along the way.

some recent rear door deadening for road noise reduction (sealing door). each door took about 20 minutes. I used Raammat BXT on them.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddoordeadening001.jpg
driver side
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddoordeadening009.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddoordeadening016.jpg

split loom to let cables pass through
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/accorddoordeadening017.jpg

5[/quote] [quote=keep_hope_alive]i finally rebuilt the flush covers around my side amps, this was a long time coming.

i haven't made any sub grills yet, still rockin' the 80's waffle grills. they protect the subs, that's the #1 goal. cosmetics will come over time.

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010006.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010002.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010001.jpg

---------- Post added at 01:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

i also tossed in some rear speakers, re-deadened the rear deck and resealed them. the speakers are in a small sealed cavity. nothing special, i'm trying to decide if i like them like this, or if i need to rebuild the entire rear deck (likely). they are ran off the center output on the H701, 3CH PCM, bandpassed, and delayed. they did help push the sound stage out more and increased some overall definition. if i get a config i like i'll upgrade the drivers.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010008.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTrunk1010016.jpg

i also installed a new pin switch and two white LED strips for trunk lighting. they work well.

nothing is private with this build, it's a learning experiment. :)

crossover points varied (as did slopes) but were normally at 315Hz and usually 24dB/oct. I also ran it as high as 500Hz - but the 1/2 wavelength associated with the cone separation started to cause issues. Below 315Hz I could hear upper midrange break-up at higher volumes. With a 7" separation of voice coils, the 1/2 wavelength is 328Hz. I wanted a 5kHz mid/tweeter crossover point, but output was lacking above 3kHz from that mid off-axis. I understand that imaging cues are intensity based above 4kHz or so, but I still want representation in both ears.

the phasing issue, i think, is due to the difference in driver separation relative to each seat, and interaction between the pressure waves. I have back wave separation in this build, so that's not an issue. Lower crossover points seem to help, but my 4" reaches a low end limit.

my goal has been a two-seat car, without a center channel. some days i'm close, other days i'm far off. i'm constantly tweaking, saving presets, going back, etc. after the RTA sessions my adjustments are phase, TA, and crossover.

more importantly, the HF roll off of the 4" off axis was also an issue. I want to move the 4" where the 6.5" is, and move the 6.5" to sealed FG enclosures on the door (with driver as low and far as possible). redoing the carpet will coincide with that effort.

currently, i have the 4" off. I am running the Oz 6.5" in the floor as the mid. I have a 6.5" midbass in the door (Massive Audio from the late 90's i had laying around).

Current crossover settings varied between two approaches.

First was using steep slopes and T/A based on two different situations:
1. driver seat only
2. both seats
All crossover slopes are 30dB/oct. I get phasing issues when using different crossover slopes, mostly because of the inherent phase shift with crossover slopes. I've found that if slopes are different, driver phase is important to consider. I like everything in-phase, so consistent slopes help me with that. Crossover points are 56Hz - 180Hz for midbass, 200Hz - 4kHz for mid, 4kHz and up for the tweeters. My sound stage is too narrow with this, too much is centered.

The second approach is a new one - no T/A, 12dB/oct slopes all around. This is where the kick mid shines - the sound stage is much wider without T/A, but too close to me. The mono rear fill xover and T/A comes into play heavily for pushing the sound stage away from me. I will slowly work in some T/A, but probably just the door speakers. The higher crossover points coupled with careful level adjustments are getting me great stage width and height.

Rear fill has been very instrumental in developing the sound stage depth. Luckily, the H701 gives me instant access to level, T/A, phase, and xover - because all of this is tuning by ear (with the help of a recording engineer as co-pilot).

Scott did recommend a two-part epoxy for the floor. I am not against that method. I'm also looking at viscoelastic damping compounds (green glue) and cement board or another high-mass, water resistant product. i'm exciting the floor at 125Hz - i have several approaches to solving this. If I do, i may try the 4" in the side again and use the floor 6.5" as midbass again.
One solution is to increase mass of the floor to lower the resonance frequency. another solution is to introduce transmission loss between the cabin and floor. a third is to reduce excitement in the first place.

I want to increase transmission loss anyway, so a decoupled MLV is planned for the floor. To lower resonance frequency, i could throw 3 layers of BXT II on the floor, but will that really drop it from 125Hz to below 50Hz? Added mass may be the key, but how best to adhere the mass - and ideally, absorb some of the vibration. I'm thinking Green Glue may be a key component - in two places. 1. between the speaker baffle and the vehicle to reduce structure borne excitation. 2. between the added mass on the floor and the floor to absorb the structure borne vibration while increasing transmission loss.

Lastly, I did some testing with 12Hz tones by setting up measurement mics in the cabin and trunk. i measured some interesting data - such as more prominent 2nd and 3rd harmonic distortion in the trunk than in the cabin - by like 20dB difference. More concerning was that with windows up, i could hear the speakers in the car audibly moving as a method of pressure release. This got me thinking that at higher volumes (and higher SPL), you get break-up from the driver itself, but you also get distortion from the subs pressurizing the cabin and manipulating the drivers. A cracked window wasn't enough to reduce the cone movement, the window had to be 1/2way down, at least before it was inaudible. I've always recognized that rear deck speakers commonly suffered distortion from trunk subs. But i hadn't thought that pressurization of the cabin affects speakers in doors, kicks, etc. to that extent. The 12Hz tone was at 105dB when the cones moved audibly (by audibly, i'm referring to a flapping sound that seemed to be cone excursion related). I'll perform more testing regarding the difference in harmonic distortion (by lowering the rear seat and also reversing the driver orientation - since it's possible that the rear seat (with armrest down) provided some form of aperiodic filtering. I'll also more closely monitor cone movement, as while audible, the cones were not visible at the time.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:46 PM
2011

So as a result of some recent "changes" that I will describe later, i've decided to run door midbass until I build the FG door pods. which, due to winter, won't be started until late spring 2012.

but first, I needed to actually seal up the door this time. before i just had some "thinmat" around the speaker that just simply pealed off (apparently roofing material doesn't stick in the cold).

I used Raammat BXT since i had about 50 sq. ft. of note, having used this and BXT II, there is a HUGE advantage to the BXT II. BXT II is better in every way.

today i'll make a new speaker baffle and move on to the next door.

cleaned and ready, i used a mild mix of oxy clean and some nitrile gloves to clean all metal surfaces.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening001.jpg

started with about 8 sq. ft. on the inside of the door cavity
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening004.jpg

multiple layers in the middle of the door
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening005.jpg

then i moved to the inner skin
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening003.jpg

for the large opening i had a few options. option 1 is to make a fiberglass cover, option 2 is to make a sheet metal cover, option 3 is to make due with materials you have on hand. i chose option 3 since it was around midnight.

i used some thin board and made sure to have deadening on both sides. in this case, i ran a piece on the inside that overlapped the metal on each side of the opening, then used gorilla glue to hold the board to the deadening/metal around the opening, then covered with a few layers of deadener.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/CopyofCopyoffrontdoordeadening008.jpg

i repeated the process
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening004.jpg

mostly finished, i did some trimming along the outer edges
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening012.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening006.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyoffrontdoordeadening007.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:46 PM
so, replacing front stock speakers in your accord... i wrote this as instructional so i can share my process. in all, about 7 hours on the front driver door, not including wiring.

factory comparison with a late 90's Massive Audio CD6 woofer
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening002.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening003.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening004.jpg

some tools required - a jig saw and drill are essential.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening007.jpg

i find that the holes you cut in sub boxes can be reused for door speakers. here we have 3/4" MDF.

start by tracing the factory speaker mount, then superimpose the new speaker basket outline. determine the outer boundaries of the new mount - making sure you leave ample room for at least four bolts. then mark your driver cut-out in the center - i used the factory cardboard that held the driver for shipping as my template.

secure the wood so you can make your cuts
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening009.jpg

drill a hole on the inside of the center cut out, and on the outside of any sharp corners
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening010.jpg

always cut the center out first so you can easily secure the overall piece of wood
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening011.jpg

test fit your driver
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening012.jpg[/quote]

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:47 PM
finish cutting out the rest
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening014.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening016.jpg

drill out your mounting holes (driver and baffle) and use t-nuts or hurricane nuts for driver mounting. MDF doesn't work well with standard wood screws.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening018.jpg

test fit your piece and use tape to help align the mount. mark your mounting holes so you have a clean cut you need to remove deadener BEFORE you drill - as it makes a mess. use brake-cleen or gasoline to remove deadener from the drill bit.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening019.jpg

test fit the piece - if it's good then secure with bolts. in this case, i am using 1-1/2" 8-32 bolts with a nut and washer inside the door. you tighten with a screw driver and socket driver.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening020.jpg

start by working a layer of deadener around the inside seam where the baffle meets the door
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening022.jpg

once it is secure, you can deaden over this piece to ensure it is water proof.
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening023.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening024.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening025.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:47 PM
and then wire and mount the driver
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening028.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening029.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening030.jpg

lastly, open cell foam around the driver to facilitate a seal against the door panel (i tightened up the gap)
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening031.jpg
5[/quote] [quote=keep_hope_alive]passenger side - pretty much the same thing. another ~20 sq. ft. of Raammat BXT.

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/passdoordeadening049.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/passdoordeadening051.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/passdoordeadening052.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:47 PM
updated system wiring diagram. I am looking for a diferent set of midbass drivers and a different set of rear fill speakers. i'm not opposed to going back to Oz or finding something different.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordAudioSystem2011.jpg[/quote] [quote=keep_hope_alive]some recent work to experiment with speaker locations and soundstage width.

i have my midbass in the door now so my 6.5" holes in the floor were empty... until now. I made a ring to mount some mids in that location. I recess mounted them so i had both protection and off-axis control
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1237.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1236.jpg

both mids can be played, and since they are mostly in the same location, the soundstage differences should be based on speaker orientation.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1242.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1241.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1243.jpg

same for the driver's side
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1238.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1240.jpg

yea, i still have the carpet over the drivers - this is how it looks after another winter.
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1245.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/IMG_1246.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:48 PM
decided to take advantage of 55 deg weather late 2011

new full size spare
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk005.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk006.jpg

CCF the floor
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk008.jpg

glad i save these cut outs
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk007.jpg

CCF the cutout top and bottom
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk009.jpg

secured the tools to the board. either i have a phillips screw driver on hand (tweaker in the console) or i just break the plastic clips
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk016.jpg


next i disassembled the floor amp rack since i already had boards sized with t-nuts. worked great
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk017.jpg

hot ****, it fits
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk018.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk019.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:48 PM
now do i put the H701 under the amp or do i store the jack under it?
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk020.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordxtanttrunk021.jpg

new ground location - machine screw into tapped hole that is not exposed to the elements underneath
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres1029.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres1028.jpg

what prompted my tweeter project was waiting for the resin to dry on these boards.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres1027.jpg

these are going to be on each side of the trunk for securing the H701, power, ground, and all wiring. i wanted a wood surface to secure zip tie mounts that wasn't on vehicle metal. 1/2" MDF coated in resin for water proof-ness.

resin on 1/2" MDF in place
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2007.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2008.jpg

carpet with Super 77
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2013.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2009.jpg

my goal this time was to have nicer wire management in the trunk. this isn't done yet, i need to neatly secure the wires as they extend behind the amp rack.
10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2010.jpg

I am basically re-running every wire in the trunk

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:48 PM
we talk a lot about capacitors. i tell a lot of people not to use them. there are many reasons for this, and my goal is to maximize their investment. i have invested in my electrical system, now i am trying a cap done as correct as possible - by putting it as close to the leads as possible. these 4awg sections were soldered (Weller torch) to spade and ring terminals.
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres2011.jpg

amp cover stops at the same plane as the fan on the right, but it is cut out from the factory to clear wiring. the cap terminals are behind the amp terminals - no worries about shorts or anything.

did some progress this morning. too bad i have to go into work, otherwise i could finish today.

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunkfinishing002.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunkfinishing001.jpg

you can see black zip ties on the carpeted board above the power wires, i drilled two holes and zip tied the power wire to the bottom of the board. that way i have strain relief for the distribution block inputs.

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunkfinishing003.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunkfinishing004.jpg

i secured wires with zip tie mounts screwed to either the vehicle or wood. everything is secure.

left to do is the ground for the 3300c and redo the remote turn-on wiring. not much.

then i will have power and can redo all gain settings with a scope.

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordTrunk004.jpg

I had to redo the remote wire
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordTrunkremote.jpg


quickly revised the floor and trimmed around the 3300c. not final but it was enough for a road trip
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordTrunk003.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordTrunk001.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:49 PM
Two mics are shown - one in passenger seat and one in drivers seat. Mics are at teh headrest.

I noticed some distortion and some harshness that I couldn't tune out. Then i realized that stupid MX (Media eXpander) was turned on. Not shure when or why. So I flattened the EQ and reset the turning. I noticed that I didn't need much EQ - it is mostly flat - maybe 6 bands are adjusted for the mids and tweeters.

All crossovers are set, I tuned without the sub. I do have some sub adjustments left for a better blend.

Soundstage height is great, nice and wide... and it does two seats quite well.


This was after I flattened the EQ - in 1/3rd octave without sub
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_midhigh_3rd.jpg

This is same as above in 1/24th octave without sub
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_midhigh.jpg

This is everything running - 1/3rd octave with sub
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_all_3rd.jpg


This is the end result after some tuning effort - without sub
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_midhigh_3rdtuned.jpg


This is the same as above - current tuning in 1/24th octave without sub.
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordRTA_LR_midhigh_24thtuned.jpg

New battery - Die Hard Platinum P-4 Group 34/78DT

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordbattery005.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordbattery004.jpg

The 135 Min. Reserve Capacity and Warranty were the selling points. My RedTop was 7 years old and no longer resting at >12V.

Power Ratings:
Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate: 68
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F): 880
Reserve Capacity (RC): 135 min.

It is made by Odyssey and is AGM

some stuff i've been doing:
finally carpeted my stupid trunk lid. i was also trying to watch my kids so i went quickly. i can go back and fix the cuts in a few places. better than it was.
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011001.jpg

9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011006.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:49 PM
redid some wiring
1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011028.jpg

was this
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011018.jpg

now this
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011026.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011027.jpg

working on a custom radio mount. it will be painted to match and incorporate gauges. this was the first attempt using a sheet of ABS
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011016.jpg

cleaned up wiring behind the head unit
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011024.jpg

there's a lot going on there
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accord062011025.jpg

new sub grills (from Madisound)
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters006.jpg

8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters005.jpg

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:50 PM
also, some tweeter experiments
9http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters003.jpg

10http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters004.jpg

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/AccordTweeters009.jpg

I started making another set recently.

I buy solid wooden spheres ($1.50) - like knobs or post tops, at my local Hobby Lobby. i hollow out a cylinder, (using Forstner bits, hole saws, dremel, etc.), drill a hole for threaded rod, and then... i'm not sure where to go next for a nice finish.

tools i use
2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012011.jpg

i used double-sided foam tape to hold the sphere in the vice without making marks. works well.
3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012018.jpg

I had to dremel sand the opening a bit larger in order to fit. the Forstner bit was either too small or too large.
4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012020.jpg

rods screwed in
5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012021.jpg

wires soldered on tweeters
6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012023.jpg

going with hammered silver paint (to match my painted interior)
7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012028.jpg

painted and waiting (pic taken 2 hours ago)
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordkicks2012035.jpg

i haven't decided how best to finish off the mount. there is a gap around the tweeter face due to it's construction. the widest flange is in the middle. so i need something to create a smooth transition. and then the grill - the Vifa doesn't have one. i have one, but it's larger than necessary.

I used some rope caulk to temporarily hold the tweeters in place and also hold the grill on. i want to test before i make these permanant.

i'm also taking a different approach. instead of having the grill flush with the sphere, i have the actual tweeter cone flush and the grill protrudes - should be better, we'll see.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 02:50 PM
these vifa are tough since you have to make your own grill. normal tweeters are MUCH easier to finish off.

1http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012001.jpg

2http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012002.jpg

3http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012003.jpg

4http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012004.jpg

5http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012005.jpg

6http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012012.jpg

7http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012011.jpg

not bad, i want to get them finished a bit better
8http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/tweeterspheres022012011.jpg



So, now you are up to speed with this 6 year build and its many variations. Everything is subject to change and new front speaker locations are planned next – starting with new doors.

big_ol_meat
02-18-2012, 05:58 PM
noob build log

Infaredsinsor
02-18-2012, 06:33 PM
I have a 02 honda accord and I thought this build was going to be inspirational, but instead it gave me a headache. All hats off to a clean install, but go ahead with your bad self. Just over kill to me. I hope its a great sounding SQ setup after all that labor.

wenn_du_weinst
02-18-2012, 06:37 PM
very nice build log.

keep_hope_alive
02-18-2012, 08:39 PM
I have a 02 honda accord and I thought this build was going to be inspirational, but instead it gave me a headache. All hats off to a clean install, but go ahead with your bad self. Just over kill to me. I hope its a great sounding SQ setup after all that labor.

overkill is relative. it is an experiment. i've tried a lot of different things. all of the variations sounded good. But some were better than others. Non one in their right mind would do everything I did. Pick a few things and run with it. The second system with the Type-X comps was good and simple.

The kicks have been a love/hate relationship, love the soundstage but hate the 120Hz resonance down there. I started tearing the doors apart today, undid the baffles and removed deadener around the opening, gonna cut it out larger and angle the driver mount up and back.

$LICK CALIFA$
02-19-2012, 03:56 PM
d@mn nice ongoing build... like they say its never perfect!

trumpet
02-19-2012, 04:01 PM
Do you still use the PHX-H701 and RUX-C701 combo?
edit: sorry, I just looked at page 3 again and saw the 701 in your trunk.

keep_hope_alive
02-19-2012, 05:28 PM
Do you still use the PHX-H701 and RUX-C701 combo?
edit: sorry, I just looked at page 3 again and saw the 701 in your trunk.

actually, no i don't use the H701. I sold it and the controller. I loved using it, and i was tweaking with it (while driving) almost constantly. that was one issue - i tweak. another is noise - the darn things are noisy. lastly, i wanted to simplify. i do miss it sometimes, like when i had 10 drivers up front and played with 3 at a time - the H701 would have been handy there.

but all of that processing isn't necessary. i remember how we rolled in the 90's and we were simpler. and it sounded great. i'm trying to use less processing and focus on install methods. i may be looking for some active 24dB/oct crossovers though. i've tried a lot of stuff in this car...

so, onto some work i did last night...

say good by to all of this effort
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/passdoordeadening051.jpg

that baffle was restricting rear airflow, and didn't allow for deeper woofers. this is for midbass - so size matters.

removed the speaker baffle in the doors. removing the BXT was time consuming, luckily it was cold. i have 3-4 layers around teh speakers.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012018.jpg

i want to put larger woofers in, and the factory hole is too small, and the larger drivers are 3" deep. after test fits, i removed metal
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012021.jpg

i quickly ripped out a ring (jig saw and 3/4" birch)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012022.jpg

and did a test fit with window down
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012023.jpg


as far as depth goes -
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012009.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012010.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012006.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass2012003.jpg

the new speaker mount will be 1" thick on top and about 2" thick on the bottom. i'll use 1/2" MDF and make a base then a ring, then fill and glass in place so i have a cone shaped mount that has plenty of airflow. i'll need to trim some door panel (in front of the pocket) then glass a new grill onto the door. my goal is for a factory look - so you'll just see a contiguous piece with an integral grill.

like everything else in this car, i'm making it up as i go.

fish1234
02-19-2012, 05:50 PM
Which drivers are you using, that should look really nice once completed. Excited to see pics!

Bettr n' Revrse
02-19-2012, 05:56 PM
I loved this build... I remember you sending me pics when I wanted to do an IB as well

sobe3yourself.
02-19-2012, 06:21 PM
i would pay to sit in your car for an hour with all of my favorite music

keep_hope_alive
02-19-2012, 06:56 PM
i would pay to sit in your car for an hour with all of my favorite music

right now it would be a waste of money... it sounds decent but floor midbass is resonant so i have filters set to prevent it from being a huge issue. the door midbass will be nice, then i can redo the kicks for mids with better aiming. i am very excited to get the doors done... but today is a day to relax.

fannin88
02-19-2012, 08:08 PM
Not to sound overly-gay...But I absolutly love when i see the word "build" then your name involved somewhere.

keep_hope_alive
02-19-2012, 09:14 PM
Lol.i just play. I get excited when I see names like Chris Yato and Steve Brown

I'm an amateur. But I'm glad my experiments give ideas to others, my goal is for ya'll to do a better job executing it.

maylar
02-20-2012, 10:24 AM
You do nice work mang. Lots of insirational stuff here. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us.

focused313
02-29-2012, 07:27 PM
the cleanliness of this install, as well as the great pics and explanations, has led me the decision that I must pull everything out of my car (if I can get those front seats out) and rerun every dang wire in there. I also am inspired to make a beauty panel as soon as I learn how to cut around my ports correctly.

Thank you for this. One of the best logs I've seen.

keep_hope_alive
03-06-2012, 09:25 AM
tip for beauty panels: make a mock up out of cardboard first. don't worry about wasting cardboard, remake until it is perfect - then you have a template to cut the wood. for tough areas, make the mockup in sections (to work with smaller cardboard pieces). you can eyeball the first pass, then make notes on it for how many inches out each section needs to be, then remake. obviously, measure as much as you can to get as close as you can.

once you have the cardboard mock up - trace on your wood stock. then smooth the line by hand (cardboard is jagged).

when i run wire, i am not afraid of rerunning if i don't like how it lays (i.e. it is on top of wires that i feel would be better to be under). i don't worry about time and focus on how OEM would run it. i try to logically route away from pinch points and since split loom is cheap, i loom all wires for the entire run, even under carpet. OEM does, so do I. i use aluminum foil tape to secure wires and loom down. it sticks well. i secure wires as often as necessary, but usually every 6-8". i use black zip ties where possible when i can tie to factory wires. on car metal: i don't use screw holders or the stick-on zip tie holders since they are all bulky. i do use screw loops or tie holders on boards and racks. i do use wire strain relief, especially on any moving parts.

removing seats is easy. removing panels is easy. removing the center console is easy. removing carpet is easy. should take 45 min. you can drive without carpet and panels while you wire the car. just note if you start the car without seats (and seats have airbags), your SRS light will come on and your dealer will need to turn it off.

keep_hope_alive
03-06-2012, 09:45 AM
Which drivers are you using?

when?

haha. i have tried 4 different midbass drivers, 5 different midrange, and 4 different tweeters.

i liked the OZ Audio drivers, but i was persuaded to sell. right now, my plan is using the following 4 ohm drivers (about $160 in drivers):

Vifa OT19NC00
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/images/products/preview/ot19nc00.jpg

Dayton Reference RS-100
http://www.rumoh.nl/1013-570-large/dayton-rs100-4.jpg

Silver Flute W17RC38-04
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/images/products/preview/w17rc38-08.jpg


reasons:
I've ran the Vifa ring radiator back when i ran the Alpine SPX-177R. they are better in spheres.

I like Dayton audio drivers and i like a dedicated full range (midrange) in the kicks. i will locate these more on axis (and play with aiming) and may run with just a high pass. they are good to 10kHz on-axis but with my current install they roll off above 3kHz so i don't have a low pass filter on them. we'll see how they blend with the tweeters when on-axis. right now, you cannot locate them - everything is above the dash.

I heard great things about the Silver Flute drivers in a midbass application - provided they are well installed. we'll see how i like them using the door cavity. I may also pick up the Dayton Reference RS-150 and try both.

fish1234
03-06-2012, 10:34 AM
Those Vifa's look to perform very well on axis, I'll be excited to see them mounted in spheres!

keep_hope_alive
03-07-2012, 12:01 AM
Those Vifa's look to perform very well on axis, I'll be excited to see them mounted in spheres!

They are. See previous pages. :)

pieper88
03-07-2012, 12:28 AM
Can I just drop my Escape off to you have you build it lol?

keep_hope_alive
03-07-2012, 12:42 AM
:)

I mostly work at night

matt_bennett05
03-08-2012, 02:54 AM
I still find it hard to have that much outright dedication put into every detail, including the preventative maintainence for unexpected issues that you could run into. If I had half of the patience and knowledge on a few things I've seen I would be more than happy.

Guess I ought to hang on D.I.Y. sometime. :thumbsup: Very indepth informative work man.

keep_hope_alive
03-08-2012, 08:06 AM
I still find it hard to have that much outright dedication put into every detail, including the preventative maintainence for unexpected issues that you could run into. If I had half of the patience and knowledge on a few things I've seen I would be more than happy.

Guess I ought to hang on D.I.Y. sometime. :thumbsup: Very indepth informative work man.

Thanks. Patience is key, you cannot feel that something isn't worth the time/effort. Don't hesitate to redo something or to experiment. You learn during the process. gotta keep hope alive!

knightrider2k6
03-11-2012, 03:49 PM
awesome. awesome work. very very detailed. me likey. thanks for the info and pics.

SuperSaeYoung
04-30-2012, 02:12 AM
I've seen your work on honda forums awhile back and loved it.

murph
04-30-2012, 02:54 AM
:wowflash: I have no words to say...

keep_hope_alive
05-29-2012, 01:03 AM
finally got around to putting the silver flute 6.5" midbass in the doors. required cutting metal, fabricating a new mount to make room for the massive basket/magnet, and cutting the door panel. next is making a new door panel grille to retain a factory look.

used 3/4" birch for the base and 1/2" MDF for the ring.

but you have to start somewhere, and that's with mockups. i previously removed the stock grill.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121302.jpg

with ring to see future panel conflicts. depth required the door panel to be modified.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121302a.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121317.jpg

test fit
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121319.jpg

drilling holes
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121342.jpg

hurricane nuts 8-32
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121345.jpg

driver test fit
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121357.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121357b.jpg

keep_hope_alive
05-29-2012, 01:06 AM
panel test fit, had to make a few passes to get the clearance right, hence the odd shape on the one side. had door panel seam conflicts
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121409.jpg

some of these are with my camera phone, hence any blurry pics
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/0526121412.jpg

coated in resin
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass008.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass007.jpg

passenger side bolted in place, green glue damping compound, Raammat BXT for seals
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass001.jpg

green glue on ring too
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass003.jpg

mounted/wired
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass005.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass006.jpg

keep_hope_alive
05-29-2012, 01:10 AM
the Green Glue was quite runny on this hot day.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass004.jpg

used closed cell foam for my rain barrier ring inside the door. this is an application of Green Glue on the back of the mounting ring.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass009.jpg

driver side is the same as passenger
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass010.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass011.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass012.jpg

used a dremel with a cutting wheel for the first pass on the door panel. final cutting may be larger just for consistency of lines... we'll see. for now, i can take my 700 mile trip with new speakers to listen to
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass013.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass014.jpg

how the amps are currently wired
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accorddoormidbass015.jpg
An Alpine DRE-A200 providing an extra active crossover split between mids and tweeters.



start to finish, the pics you see were done this weekend while also spending 8 hours wiring a boat, playing with the kids, and hanging with friends. i think it was about 7 hours of work total.

keep_hope_alive
05-30-2012, 08:26 PM
after 700 miles of listening (in the past 24 hours) i am very, very happy. they speakers sound great. excellent midbass. SOOOO much better than the floors were. doors are silent, no rattles or buzzed. not thrilled with them above 1kHz (despite having a "smooth response" to 5kHz). this may likely be the door itself.

sound stage is still good. not as deep as it was with floor midbass but close. the improvement in tonality is worth it. i will adjust the mids next.

I need to get my mids more on-axis to improve response from 1kHz-3kHz. they loose too much detail being that far off-axis. and they roll off at 3kHz. not that i want a lot more from them, but I do want the ability to increase tweeter/mid crossover points.

CAT MAN
06-05-2012, 03:11 AM
fvck me and call me sally why am i always looking at your build

keep_hope_alive
06-06-2012, 12:47 AM
fvck me and call me sally why am i always looking at your build

hell, just the other day i went through it. like a trip down memory lane for me. i still can't believe i've done half this stuff. the TB wall alone was such an effort. now i just enjoy it, forgetting how much **** effort it was.

it's nice once you finish somthing you like, you don't think about it anymore. but the stuff you don't like haunts you. my doors were haunting me.

keep_hope_alive
06-15-2012, 06:40 PM
I'm gonna try something out - i recorded the system in the Accord using a Zoom H2 stereo recorder. The Zoom H2 has built-in compression (which was set on Studio) and four mics (i used the front 2). Held at my neck while i drove from work to home. It's about a 5 minute drive so enough time for a song. Windows up, A/C on.

320kbps mp3 due to file size (12mb) being reasonable.

Jurassic 5 - Power In Numbers - "React" and "A Day at the Races"
the pause at 2:31 is me changing the 9887 T/A preset from 2 seat (equal left and right) to 1 seat (aligned to driver's seat)

I don't normally listen to hip-hop, but since most of you do, I started with this.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=9BE5812AB35E1D9E!354

keep_hope_alive
06-19-2012, 07:39 PM
I added three more tracks to the folder above.

Tool - Ticks and Leeches
Tool - Right In Two
Pink Floyd - The Wall Disc 2 (3 tracks)

All while driving 65 on the interstate. i should probably replace them with recordings done in my garage so the noise floor is a bit lower, but it gives a good indication of what deadening has done to lower noise. it's fairly quiet for interstate driving in a Honda.

Any feedback is appreciated. Let me know if this effort is a waste of time.

husker77
06-20-2012, 05:46 AM
I listened to one of the pink floyd tracks, it sounds good to me. Considering that it sounded good coming through my laptop speakers it should be really good in the car. Might have to steal my kids headphones to listen to the other tracks.

keep_hope_alive
06-20-2012, 08:06 AM
Yea, full range headphones help. The bass reproduction is decent given the mic choice.

What I think is neat is the recording is in stereo using a stereo mic arrangement, so the recordings produce an image similar to that in the car, when played on a capable system.

keep_hope_alive
07-15-2012, 06:12 PM
this is something i haven't seen in a build log yet. pvc encased fiberglass absorption. i've seen people use foams or polyfill but those have issues. foams aren't absorptive enough (especially if they are closed cell). polyfill isn't absorptive much as-is. the doors get wet so any fibrous material will hold water = mold.

in architectural acoustics, we use pvc encased fiberglass batt to cheaply add a lot of absorption to a room.

i've had this idea for a while, finally felt like doing it.

i started with 1 mil PVC sheeting - it is normally used as a drop cloth for painting. it was stupid cheap, like $3 for a roll. i have some fiberglass batt insulation as well. fiberglass batt is one of the absolute best materials for sound absorption. just about anything else performs worse. the concern is that you don't want it getting wet.

i measured my doors, they have two metal tubes that provide structural strength. i will fit absorption between these. if i had 2" thick bags, they wouldn't interfere with the window. my doors were already sealed up, luckily i used several smaller panels to cover the gap, so i just cut and peeled one of them back:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags001.jpg

i needed 6" tall, 30" long, and 2" thick bags. i cut out 18" tall by 33" long sheets of PVC.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags004.jpg

i wrapped and compressed it for covering. i used 3M Duct Packing Tape to create the seal.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags007.jpg

i made three of them for the passenger door
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags008.jpg

then i placed them and used aluminum foil tape to hold them in place between the bars
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags012.jpg



the window guide came down in the middle. this was a snag/tear possibility. so i covered that portion with aluminum foil tape to protect it.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags009.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags013.jpg

all done, 100% coverage along the entire outer door skin, with a fourth smaller bag stuffed up near the hinge airspace
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags014.jpg

closed up with a few layers
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags015.jpg

driver mounted.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfiberglassbags016.jpg

keep_hope_alive
07-15-2012, 06:17 PM
before i do the driver's side i'll use the RTA and 1/24th oct resolution to measure drivers (untreated) vs. passenger (treated). my measurement locations, driver settings, etc. will be equivalent enough to allow for an accurate comparison. the goal with this is to improve midrange response as well as absorb a nasty 125Hz (ish) spike. i hope to test tonight, then do the driver's door.

if all goes as planned, i will recommend this for anyone sealing up their door. this was easy to do, took about 5 minutes per bag an would be very easy to do before the door is sealed if you're deadening it anyway. i expect this to greatly improve response for the door woofers.

murph
07-15-2012, 06:24 PM
before i do the driver's side i'll use the RTA and 1/24th oct resolution to measure drivers (untreated) vs. passenger (treated). my measurement locations, driver settings, etc. will be equivalent enough to allow for an accurate comparison. the goal with this is to improve midrange response as well as absorb a nasty 125Hz (ish) spike. i hope to test tonight, then do the driver's door.

if all goes as planned, i will recommend this for anyone sealing up their door. this was easy to do, took about 5 minutes per bag an would be very easy to do before the door is sealed if you're deadening it anyway. i expect this to greatly improve response for the door woofers.

That was a great idea. I love this build log.

keep_hope_alive
07-15-2012, 06:53 PM
thanks. the car sounds **** good. but rather than EQ some issues, i want to fix them with install.

butterMilk
07-19-2012, 03:47 PM
Nice build thread to read, though it took me 2 days to get through it!! Has inspired me to make sure I'm doing a nice clean install like you.

Learning lots here, Keep it up!

shpatb
07-19-2012, 05:43 PM
This is just freaking awesome, I want to take a month off and just redo my entire car.... this is just amazing.

keep_hope_alive
07-19-2012, 06:17 PM
thanks guys. it's a labor of love. i've seen better, but it sounds really good for the investment in equipment. once i finalize my speaker install/locations, i'll work on final cosmetics.

keep_hope_alive
08-04-2012, 03:18 PM
put this in the driver door day (pass door was done previously)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfgbatt002.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfgbatt005.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfgbatt011.jpg

keep_hope_alive
08-04-2012, 11:31 PM
Data was taken by using the SoundDevices USBPre line level rca input from the Alpine CDA-9887 output directly. Levels are relative. Autosound 2000 Track 18 (un-correlated pink noise) was used as the source.


I am using the Alpine DRE-A200 as a crossover between my tweets and mids off the Front outputs on the 9887. you can see the 12dB/oct slope of that crossover.

There is the same consistent drop at the crossover frequency (6 and 12 are the same, 18 and 24 are the same at the xover point). Certainly, when choosing crossover slopes and points, the drop at the crossover point should be taken into consideration - resulting in some overlap with the crossover points.

4kHz crossover point, slope varies 6 to 24dB/oct. Front output of 9887
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_4kHz_HPF.jpg

1kHz crossover point, slope varies 6 to 24dB/oct. Front output of 9887
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_1kHz_HPF.jpg

200Hz crossover point, slope varies 6 to 24dB/oct. Rear output of 9887
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_200Hz_HPF.jpg

50Hz HPF, 250Hz LPF, slope varies from Full to 6, 12, 18 & 24dB/oct. Rear output of 9887
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_50Hz_250Hz_BPF-1.jpg

Then i played with the mic for a bit. Played with crossover settings. I had the laptop in the passenger seat, mic at my head (moving around to average out peaks/valleys). This is the front stage only (no sub). Crossover points are:
Midbass: no HPF (Full), 315Hz LPF 18dB/oct
Mid: 250Hz HPF 18dB/oct, 3.5kHz LPF 12dB/oct
Tweet: 3.5kHz HPF 12dB/oct
One line is measured 1/24th oct, the other line is a smoothed version of that line.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/9887_frontstage-1.jpg

naturally, with the subs the low end is (much) higher, but I wasn't running the sub during the RTA testing today and was more interested in midbass response.

here are individual graphs of crossover slopes. This is what i've been listening to, set by ear. It is close to what I expected, though i'm more then 3dB down at the xover points.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/RTA%202012/3wayRTA.jpg

keep_hope_alive
09-23-2012, 09:23 AM
yesterday i decided to dress up the door woofers by putting some vinyl around them. started by taking a cutting wheel on a dremel and improving on the cuts i made previously.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills004_zps511f998a.jpg

did the passenger side, wasn't happy with the vinyl. did the driver side, added foam behind the vinyl to flush up with the door panel. still wasn't happy. it was better, but not what i really wanted.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills002_zpsa27dea52.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills003_zps952fff57.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills006_zps82bcfab5.jpg

you can see that while the foam keeps the vinyl tight, it also bulges.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills008_zps1ddf4250.jpg

keep_hope_alive
09-23-2012, 09:30 AM
so around midnight i decided to take a 10" woofer grill and make a new door panel grill.

i've had this idea in my head for a long time, but i figured i would need a 12" grill in order to cover the way i wanted. turns out, a 10" grill was just perfect if i covered it.

i began by cutting and bending, test fitting, cutting and bending some more, test fitting some more, etc.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills010_zps47314649.jpg

you can see that the door panels were cut in order to make room for the lowered/deeper woofers
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills005_zpsa3368e1b.jpg

so i wanted the grill to come behind the pocket, but then follow the contour of the factory opening. the front corner would not be covered due to the smaller grill size.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills009_zpsef7a42e8.jpg

i was going to use grill cloth, but that would be too thin and show the edges and frame of the grill. a round hole expanded metal grill could be done to look nice and more polished (in the future maybe). i decided to use open weave carpet. having the color different is fine, i have silver accents in the interior.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills011_zps0ae8b1ab.jpg

i trimmed some more, fitted some more, and got the grills to secure to the door panel. then i used trusty aluminum foil tape to secure the carpet. both have some of the rubber grill edging where it would contact the vinyl.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills016_zpsc00ed07e.jpg

the result was pretty much what i wanted to achieve (at 2am)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills017_zpsf179b522.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills018_zps82653056.jpg

keep_hope_alive
09-23-2012, 09:33 AM
final product in the car.
passenger side
http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills012_zps87b9faf4.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills015_zps36e08fd5.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills014_zpsd046bb4c.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills013_zpsfec70481.jpg

driver side

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills019_zps74ff4838.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills020_zps40d05e77.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/Door%20Grills%202012/AccordDoorGrills021_zps148779dd.jpg

pickup1
09-23-2012, 09:44 AM
is there any drivers in the floor anymore?

keep_hope_alive
09-23-2012, 09:53 AM
is there any drivers in the floor anymore?

the Dayton RS100 are in the side kick location. the Massive CK6 woofers are still in the floor, but not being used. That location is just too small for good midbass. I may rebuild those kicks to change midrange aiming. But for now, everything is as I want it to be. You'd never know the mids were on in the kicks. Everything is above the dash.

itsblown
10-02-2012, 01:40 PM
This build log never ceases to amaze me, unfortunately I have trouble reading the above graphs did you see a flatter response after installing the fiberglass bat?

keep_hope_alive
10-04-2012, 02:07 AM
This build log never ceases to amaze me, unfortunately I have trouble reading the above graphs did you see a flatter response after installing the fiberglass bat?

Adding fiberglass smoothed high frequency response and allowed lower frequency response. I don't have great graphs of that, I hastily finished the batt install but didn't take the measurements I wanted to show before and after. Doh!

BUt when I compare older measurements with new, these are clear.

itsblown
10-05-2012, 02:28 AM
Adding fiberglass smoothed high frequency response and allowed lower frequency response. I don't have great graphs of that, I hastily finished the batt install but didn't take the measurements I wanted to show before and after. Doh!

BUt when I compare older measurements with new, these are clear.
Ohh alright I ask because I'm in the process of dealing up a friends trailblazer doors. Did you notice a decrease in road noise?

keep_hope_alive
10-05-2012, 11:54 AM
no, adding fiberglass won't cut down on road noise too much - it will absorb sound inside the door cavity if you have the door well deadened and sealed - which is a good thing.

freudie1
10-08-2012, 11:22 AM
Hey there.

I have a 98 Accord (Sedan) that I have put extensive work into audio wise.

Couple of thoughts to consider:

I'd recommend ditching the doors in favor of floor mounted (facing up) mids (8"). I'm using the infamous JBL 2118h's that way. There are several DIYMA members showing examples (I'll take pics later).

Also, have you considered mini-horns? The Accord dash is fantastic for mounting them and you can score HLCD's and old ID horn bodies on the cheap. Two-way in this small a car works well.

Digging your IB setup in the trunk. Very creative. I'm subless at the moment. Do you find the volume a bit on the boomy side or is it more SQ based?

Have you considered a car computer? I've replaced a metric ton of gear with a single "carputer". It an e5200 cpu with 4GB of memory, 80GB of SSD storage, all running in a single custom "amp like" enclosure mounted in the left side of the trunk much like your Xtants. I use an M-Audio Delta 1010LT PCI sound card plus AudioMulch to run it all. Independent EQ's, xovers, time delay, even level controls all in the digital domain and NO extra hardware. Truly amazing what technology replaces.

Whole thing is controlled by a custom 7" touchscreen in the dash with an 1100 nit capacative display.

I'll take some pics as you have some elements I've used and some I think you'd do well by (especially since we basically have the same car).

keep_hope_alive
10-11-2012, 09:34 AM
Hey there.

thanks!

you may notice in earlier pictures that I have a spot for a 6.5" in the floor in addition to the 4" in the kick. I ran that for a while. I went back to the doors for several reasons.

i have considered horns, and I have no issue designing/fabricating custom horn bodies - but cutting the dash is something i am not going to do at this point and time. i almost had the dash out, but realized then that i would re-design the A/C ductwork to incorporate more customization and halted that effort. the spheres sound beautiful.

the IB wall is pure SQ. it is accurate, not boomy in the least. it sounds really nice.

i constantly consider a car PC. i've looked at a Raspberry Pi combined with a MiniDSP. I've looked at other options as well. As an EE, the idea is fairly easy to implement. Maybe next year. I am interested in what touch-screen you are using. That is the key component that I haven't found yet. The cost of SSD is becoming very attractive now.

Certainly, start a build log in the forum and post the link in this thread. I love to see other projects! But keep your build separate so everyone can comment on it without confusion.

Smitty
10-11-2012, 08:53 PM
mad props sir...

I wish we were closer together so I could take a listen... I love SQ builds

keep_hope_alive
12-07-2012, 04:15 AM
some recent measurements running a 2-way front. turned off the RS100 mids and ran the Silver Flute's up to 4kHz.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/RTAresults120412.png

has a smooth slope, which i like. i still have decent high frequency hearing. this is without any EQ.

top two lines are Lz max for a few Beastie Boys tracks. overall level (un-weighted) was around 130 dB - the top end of my listening volume.

bottom 3 are pink noise with and without subs. i also have two volume levels so linearity is evident.

keep_hope_alive
12-08-2012, 04:42 AM
finally got to use my circle jigs. i've had these things for 3 years. i've had a few routers, but nothing that i wanted to use with the jigs. finally found a BNIB plunge on a CL ad, $35 couldn't pass it up. worked like a charm using a 1/4" straight bit.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_00-18-29_501.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_00-21-12_122.jpg

the wood is 1" thick with 1/4" MDF on both sides and 1/2" ply in the middle. i had some laying around and the dimensions were just larger than what i needed anyway.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-07_23-31-06_266.jpg

i am firing forward this time so i can review the sub more accurately.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_03-17-37_118.jpg
i am leaving the speaker wire for the other configuration in place for now.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_03-18-03_877.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2012-12-08_03-19-53_31.jpg

i have the Ultra Subs A-12 to write a review of it. It ran in my Home Theater for a month, getting decent exercise. Now I have some windshield time ahead of me, so i'll see how it does in the IB wall.

keep_hope_alive
02-07-2013, 07:14 PM
took some updated RTA measurements.

i've disconnected the kick panel speakers. both the 6.5" and 4" are off.

i have some Vifa and Peerless 2" full range speakers laying around. I previously tried the Vifa in the factory dash corners and the Peerless in the apillars (that previously held my Oz tweeters). they were wired in parallel.

I ran all four 2" mids up front with no tweeters. the 6.5's in the doors handled midbass. there was overlap between midbass and mids.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accordRTA020613.png

while this looks fine and dandy, it didn't sound that great. the highs were not detailed, just a lot of reflected noise.

so i put my Vifa tweeter spheres back in, wired a 4.5uF cap in series with the tweeters and wired that in parallel with the 2" Vifa mid.
I got this:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accordRTA2020613.png

which is much nicer. lots of detail.


both configurations had a nice sound stage - very well centered, good depth, height, and width. but the second config was just better in every way.

keep_hope_alive
02-08-2013, 01:59 AM
this was the previous configuration with all four 2" mids.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2013-01-27_11-35-26_749-2.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/MobileUploads/2013-01-27_11-35-15_631-2.jpg

the mids in the apillars weren't doing it for me. so my newer apillars with the spheres are back in.
yes, i have two sets of apillars, one with spheres and one with pods. makes changing easy.

keep_hope_alive
02-08-2013, 02:05 AM
you may hardly notice a difference in the two RTA graphs, but they sounded completely different.

just proof that no one can judge a car from RTA alone. so much more goes into it.

AxT4430
02-08-2013, 02:16 PM
you may hardly notice a difference in the two RTA graphs, but they sounded completely different.

just proof that no one can judge a car from RTA alone. so much more goes into it.

eyeballing those values, they look **** near identical .. especially in the range you were referring to

gckless
02-08-2013, 02:34 PM
you may hardly notice a difference in the two RTA graphs, but they sounded completely different.

just proof that no one can judge a car from RTA alone. so much more goes into it.

Well there's minor differences, but noticeable. Graph overall is shaped the same, but the bottom one is overall louder, and has differences in a few frequencies. Really interesting to see that vs. what you experienced while listening.

keep_hope_alive
05-22-2013, 04:51 AM
I added some Maxwell BCAP3000's to the trunk and am using a RF 800a2 for a while.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130518_155812_127.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130518_155805_070.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130518_155639_980.jpg

the baffle for the sub as moving under high volumes - and causing a drum head effect.

so i thickened the baffle to 2-1/4" thick. it nests into the opening. i used Green Glue damping adhesive between each layer
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130520_232043_011.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130520_232228_987.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130521_241330_901.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130521_241323_960.jpg

keep_hope_alive
05-27-2013, 10:56 PM
got the ultracaps mounted
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513003.jpg

some self-fusing silicone for insurance
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513005.jpg

covered
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513004.jpg

made a new beauty panel
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513006.jpg

carpeted
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513007.jpg

made a new floor transition since the previous floor was raised due to the full size spare
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513013.jpg

glued, screwed, and carpeted
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513014.jpg

done
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513016.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/accordtrunk0513017.jpg

keep_hope_alive
05-27-2013, 11:05 PM
oh, and the new front speakers.
German Maestro Status SV6509

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130414_162516_345.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130414_162505_249.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130414_161042_440.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130414_155407_977.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130414_155402_727.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130414_145109_188.jpg

keep_hope_alive
06-08-2013, 10:49 PM
Got a new head unit today. Alpine CDE-HD149BT. Their best single DIN today.

Host of features with excellent processing built-in.
Paired with my Droid Razr Maxx very well via BT. Pandora, Audio, Phone all excellent.

The BioLite display is awesome this time, very legible.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AlpineCDEHD149BT015.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AlpineCDEHD149BT005.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AlpineCDEHD149BT003.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AlpineCDEHD149BT006.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AlpineCDEHD149BT004.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AlpineCDEHD149BT001.jpg

mic location
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AlpineCDEHD149BT017.jpg

quakerroatmeal
06-09-2013, 08:11 AM
Nice head unit. I'm still a big fan of the older models rather than the new ones. I don't like the fact that they took out the motorized feature on all of their hu. You've been in the game for so long with multiple different setups. What dash kit are you using? I have the same car and am doing my install soon. You may see some more pms from me asking about the car/install.

keep_hope_alive
06-09-2013, 12:52 PM
Nice head unit. I'm still a big fan of the older models rather than the new ones. I don't like the fact that they took out the motorized feature on all of their hu. You've been in the game for so long with multiple different setups. What dash kit are you using? I have the same car and am doing my install soon. You may see some more pms from me asking about the car/install.

Not a dash kit. I use the ISO mounts and then cut my own plastic cover. ISO mounts are more secure being metal (basically use the factory radio mounts and the screws that come with the HU). I will soon modify the dash opening to look like the stock hole is perfectly sized and put gauges below. You could probably buy a mounting kit but try to use the ISO mounts instead. This car really begs for a double din HU - i just don't really care for one.

I have used Alpine for over 17 years. I have owned, bought, sold 30+ head units of various brands but more than half were Alpine. All were sold in perfect working condition. I change because I like to experience a HU and the only way to experience it is to live with it. A quick Demo in a store isn't enough unless you've owned something similar and go through the paces.

There are only a few that make my list of tops; the CDA-7930 (for sentimental reasons as well as basic simplicity), the CDA-9887 is in the Top 3, and i think this new one will round it out. I've watched their evolution. I don't like the display and buttons on the 7949, I liked the 7939 but not the volume "dial". The 7940 and 7941 were decent as well, and getting some color into the simple display was nice. Their 3-disc changer units were clunky. The 7995 was nice but i didn't like the group of silver head units nor their displays. The phantom face was just too complicated and often covered A/C controls. The 79** series of dead heads were all good SQ decks but always lacked modern integration features of their competition unless you bought expensive external boxes. Those boxes were just a turn-off for many. Ai-Net was a nice standard and i'm disappointed they abandoned it. The CDM series and CDE series were basic and simple, but too simple. The 98** series had some good built-in features when no on else was doing it, once they got to the 9811 and newer. Their glide touch was awkward. While I like the simplicity of the older units, I recognize the convenience of modern features. I am big on menu structure and ease of use vs. features. They big screens with multiple lines of seven-segment LCD text is just unattractive. The evolution of display business went from simple to busy then back to simple. I was never a huge fan of the displays between the late 90's and today. I think their BioLite display is one of the best in the industry. It looks good, natural, is legible, and the closest thing to a nice stock display. It allows the head unit to blend into the dash so much better. I like adjustable illumination colors. some of the previous units didn't let you change all of the buttons (like the 9887 which kept a few buttons blue while others were green) or you have red or green buttons but blue LCD text. The HD149BT changes all button colors and with BioLite display it looks natural. I like listening to Pandora at times and I dislike having cables plugged into the phone and managing cables. This is my first time with Bluetooth in the car. I experienced it in other installs i've done and wasn't happy with the fidelity. I've found that with electronic music (house, trance, etc.) lower bit rates are more forgiving. I've had Sirius in cars since 2002, and again fidelity issues prevent me from continuing to run it. Alpine has worried me at times. The 9887 saved what was a pretty crappy lineup for a few years. The 117 just wasn't enough for me and seemed to be a combination of not enough and too early to be great. I'm glad that price point has been maintained while quality and feature set expanded. $300 for the HD149BT is **** competitive. This is one of the first brand new in a box head units i've bought in a very long time. But it was worth it.

I can tolerate 320kbps .mp3 and I do appreciate the convenience of having a good selection at my fingertips. I've been carting CD's around since I got my first car. Over the years, CD's have been lost, loaned out, scratched, etc. from normal use. I use cases and am OK with that. any critical listening is through original CD's or burns from .wav rips.

The 9887 is one of the best headunits i've used as far as built-in tuning AND accessibility to tuning is concerned. Very intuitive. The newest head unit is a step in the right direction - good processing as standard, excellent modern features, and one of the easiest to read displays in the industry. Button feel and faceplate quality is typical Alpine - very high standards. I know this head unit will continue to work in 15 years.

red13_69_84
06-12-2013, 03:42 AM
Well I hope mine is as well, lol forgive me had to go with the double din in mine, just wouldn't look right any other way.

keep_hope_alive
06-15-2013, 09:12 AM
Well I hope mine is as well, lol forgive me had to go with the double din in mine, just wouldn't look right any other way.

I agree that a double din will usually look much nicer in an opening this large. I just have other plans for that space... once I get around to it...
when I am done it should look pretty good

bradsworth
06-21-2013, 08:57 AM
Im curious about the Ultra Subs A-12. I saw your review for them, but im wondering how you liked it in your IB wall compared your previous set up. not that it matters too much since I cannot find these or the oz subs anywhere! very awesome build by the way. I might have to "borrow" the idea of those tweeter spheres. Any reason why you mounted the new tweets off axis?

keep_hope_alive
06-22-2013, 09:43 PM
Im curious about the Ultra Subs A-12. I saw your review for them, but im wondering how you liked it in your IB wall compared your previous set up. not that it matters too much since I cannot find these or the oz subs anywhere! very awesome build by the way. I might have to "borrow" the idea of those tweeter spheres. Any reason why you mounted the new tweets off axis?

i am happy with the A-12. enough output for my needs and very musical in this configuration. The Ultra Subs LV series is even better.

I have plans for the tweeters in other configurations, but due to their inverted dome configuration they do very well off axis and the sound stage is very well defined and placed.

the spheres work great. the new tweeters won't work with spheres because they are too large and the edge of the tweeter surround is inset on the face (due to their huge magnet). best tweeters for spheres are 1.2" diameter or smaller.

keep_hope_alive
06-22-2013, 09:48 PM
got a new amp, and will likely get another one from the same V12 Expert series. I would like to build a set including a 1005 and 1505.

the xtant amps have been fun but time for something different, and older.

Alpine MRV-F405 active capable amp made in Japan before Alpine sent their stuff to China.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130612_200308_663.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130612_200331_718.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130612_200344_497.jpg

perfecxionX
06-24-2013, 10:53 PM
sorry if youve already mentioned this, but what type of rta setup are you using

keep_hope_alive
06-27-2013, 07:33 PM
sorry if youve already mentioned this, but what type of rta setup are you using

i have several at my disposal.

Mostly, I use a kit that includes a laptop running TrueRTA with a SoundDevices USBpre interface and either a Behringer ECM8000 mic or an Earthworks M50 mic. There are pics of this setup in the thread.

I'll also use a Casella CEL633C that is a 1/3 octave Type-1 SLM (a $7k meter). These results look a bit different than the TrueRTA results and are show a white background and blue bars.

I generally prefer the laptop kit for the higher resolution and visible phase interference. It also allows me to save 20 results and compare easily.
For the Casella it is portable and less of a physical hassle, and results are very easy to see, plus it's highly accurate.

chefzane
06-28-2013, 02:23 PM
Anyone around Tulsa have a setup like this?

keep_hope_alive
07-01-2013, 10:47 PM
Anyone around Tulsa have a setup like this?

i know someone you can hit up to hear what a good competition level system sounds like.

he goes by Thumper26 on DIYMA.

chefzane
07-01-2013, 10:59 PM
I'll check him out thanks

Kinda meant the equip setup, but can you point me to a decent beginner RTA setup I could use myself

BTW ur examples on door deadening are what I am using to do mine top notch love the work

keep_hope_alive
07-04-2013, 01:58 AM
O
I'll check him out thanks

Kinda meant the equip setup, but can you point me to a decent beginner RTA setup I could use myself

BTW ur examples on door deadening are what I am using to do mine top notch love the work

Yea, he has an active 2-way with door treatments and was running IB. He competes and does well.

Gotcha about the RTA setup. If you already have the laptop, it's just the software, a mic, and a mic Pre.

bassman_soundki
07-04-2013, 02:42 AM
I have 2 vega 124s.
If you wanna sell it let me know

keep_hope_alive
07-07-2013, 01:39 AM
I have 2 vega 124s.
If you wanna sell it let me know

Sell what?

bradl79
08-11-2013, 04:43 AM
**** i wish i had the time to work on stuff like that and money, u must be pretty rich. btw how old r u?

keep_hope_alive
08-19-2013, 03:08 PM
**** i wish i had the time to work on stuff like that and money, u must be pretty rich. btw how old r u?

34 and no, not rich. i buy and sell used, nothing is new. i lose sleep to make time, i work 50-60 hrs per week and spend time with my family when they are awake.


wow.. just browsed this log, and your log on sounddomain. you feel confident giving advice.. with this install?


all I see is a bunch of "thisll do, for now". ever consider saving yourself time and hassle and just doing it right the first time?

seems pretty halfass.

the important stuff is solid.

wiring is solid and well done - a shy under IASCA and MECA install guidelines. I don't compromise safety. all of the vehicles i wire are done in a similar fashion - loom on wire, wires secured often, fuses appropriately, routed appropriately, etc.

speaker locations are many because of testing. i test and test and test and my advice is based on almost 20 years of building and testing. testing is important and is what allows me to give advice. doing one system and living with that one for years doesn't give you much background for answering questions on various placements. if i did it once and left it, i wouldn't give advice. i have 10 speaker locations in just the front of my car and i've used every combination of them.

sub IB wall is permanant and done as well as any i have seen, and i haven't seen any removable with the system i have. most are permanent for one setup. entire rear deck is sealed and the vehicle performs very well with bass - my bass is in my soundstage.

all amps and speakers are mounted with T-nuts. nothing half-assed about that. both the mounting boards and beauty panels are finished to match the car, all wiring routed and protected as well as most installs. i don't use aircraft grade wire mounts, but my wires are safe and don't move.

doors are fully sealed and i've innovated new methods of absorption - again, based on testing. the only unfinished part is the grill - and that is something on my to-do list... and has been for about 3 years. :)

head unit/dash area is always in limbo. another long to-do item is in regards to the panel around the radio. i have gauges to incorporate and want to make a new face. it'll be 12 hours or so of effort, start to finish, to get exactly what i want. but i keep finding other things to change and test - so while it bothers me a bit, not enough for me to move up the list.

the only compromise is cosmetics. i compromise cosmetics because they don't affect the sound of the system - which is the most important part. and i change and experiment so much, putting in the effort for a final cosmetic product would be silly. i use wood and carpet to make beauty panels instead of painted fiberglass or vinyl - i can live with that. my technical skills start to fail me when it comes to cosmetic fabrication - which is why you don't see me telling people how to wrap vinyl or bondo a panel. i understand how to do it, just don't feel the need to put in that effort at this time.

"half-assed" is visible wires, stuff not mounted securely, things placed without adequate seals. you don't see that at any point in my build log.

most of what i do in car audio, you don't see. the wiring/installs i do for others are finished products that i walk away from in cars, trucks, boats, motorhomes, classic cars, even houses. i don't post other people's stuff on the internet unless they allow (few do). those are finished technically and cosmetically. all of my work has free lifetime service/warranty. yet none of my work has failed the user and no one has had to get anything i do fixed. i do fix a lot of installs by others.


everything is done in late hours (11pm-3am) or an occasional weekend day. i'm too busy working on other vehicles to finish my own, it seems. i always put my friend's needs in front of my own. limited and sporadic time frames limits what i can commit to.

- next steps are to remove the carpeting and re-run speaker wires. i started this but had to fly to FL for work last week. more travel this week, not sure when i'll get it out.
- then i'll rebuild the kicks to get the angles i want. after years of testing what i have (also rare to see flush-mounted mids and midbass in kicks), I realize what angle i want to have. like always, the mounts need to be able to accept a wide range of speakers because i'll never stop testing speaker types. i cannot decide if i want to just make a sealed surface mounted enclosure and lose foot well space and stage width or if i can keep it recessed and re-use the floor vent.
- i also want a decent dash 2" mid pod and want to keep experimenting with that option. I plan on being able to run either the 2" dash or the floor mid (4" - 6.5") but not both at the same time unless i can get good midbass from the floor (not been happy with that yet). i will wire both locations to the rear and will switch with a relay for testing purposes (testing stage width, center, and depth).
- tweeters may go back to spheres or maybe integrated into the 2" pod. probably have the option for both. again, testing is what this is all about for me.
- sub stays as-is, though the brand/mfr will eventually change
- doors will remain as-is for a 6.5" midbass. the grill will be updated and finished for something that looks good. i actually am fine with the grills now, but no one else seems to.
- entire trunk will be redone to incorporate the new (1996-era) amps. i haven't finalized the design yet and, like always, will need to spend some time with mock-ups to find what i like. all of my amp layouts have been the result of hours of planning that incorporates access, space utilization, and wire routing. while i've changed it several times, each iteration could have been a final product.

i understand how someone seeing this much change and variation would be confused. i can give advice because of how much i have done and tried - not just in my car but the dozens of other cars i've built and hundreds of sound systems i've heard. i can give advice because as an electrical engineer and acoustics engineer who understands both theory and application, i can analyze and problem solve - and have identified the "problem" in hundreds of systems both in-person and over the forums. as someone who uses an RTA on a regular basis and has ran active and passive in a variety of ways with a variety of equipment, i can talk about processor settings and methods. that's my resume, anyway. not a brag session as there are plenty of installers better than I. i never claim to be the best or better than anyone, i just do what i think is right at that time.

cheers.

Kikazz74
08-19-2013, 11:30 PM
**** rich. those are some true words. and to back it up he did the wiring in my truck for the most recent install. moved some stuff, added stuff etc. i have had zero problems with it and i never plan on having problems with it. he is **** good at what he does. if you have any pics of the truck you can post them to prove a point. im happier and feel more confident about his install than i do about my own which is saying something seeing as my install was the power and ground lines for the rest of the system. i will be going back to finish the rest of my install and do a few final things when the time comes. i would also recommend him to anyone i know for any kind of install whether it be a SQ or SPL install or a car harness wiring install. he doesnt take shortcuts on the important things like the wiring or mounting. and like he pointed out no point in making cosmetics perfect if it is constantly changing.
i cant wait to hear the car after this install and i need to get down there still. i saw jared at cordova but wasnt able to get a demo.
keep up the great work bro.

keep_hope_alive
08-20-2013, 08:31 AM
Thanks. we need to finish the spheres soon.

i did pull the carpet out of the car last night (requires removing lower dash panels, center console, all seats, and all side panels). i have the driver's seat back in for now. road noise will be a bit louder than usual. :)

I also pulled the German Maestro Status from the front doors and put the Silver Flute woofers back in. I'd like to try the GM in the kick. i need a dedicated midrange, the angle of the door woofer just causes roll-off too early. i'm curious how i'll like the GM woofer on-axis.

BigSix
08-20-2013, 03:42 PM
wow.. just browsed this log, and your log on sounddomain. you feel confident giving advice.. with this install?


all I see is a bunch of "thisll do, for now". ever consider saving yourself time and hassle and just doing it right the first time?

seems pretty halfass.

Who the **** are you to come in here and criticize like this? What gives you the right to say if he is qualified to give out advice? Please enlighten us of all the members on here you have helped and tell us how you have contributed to this community on here. Better yet lets see YOUR build log and lets compare how much you know about this hobby.

BigSix
08-20-2013, 03:44 PM
Thanks. we need to finish the spheres soon.

i did pull the carpet out of the car last night (requires removing lower dash panels, center console, all seats, and all side panels). i have the driver's seat back in for now. road noise will be a bit louder than usual. :)

I also pulled the German Maestro Status from the front doors and put the Silver Flute woofers back in. I'd like to try the GM in the kick. i need a dedicated midrange, the angle of the door woofer just causes roll-off too early. i'm curious how i'll like the GM woofer on-axis.

awesome build btw, truly inspirational of all the hard work and knowledge you have put in this build, dont mind the noobs

keep_hope_alive
08-26-2013, 02:12 AM
The past few months I have been collecting some old school (1996) alpine amps to replace the xtant amps. my reasons are several, but the overall reason was for more crossover control without moving to external processors... and i wanted to play with these amps.

I collected these three but will get another soon. All used but in working condition and decent cosmetic condition (complete with all screws, etc).

Alpine MRV-F405 (4ch)
Alpine MRV-F505 (4ch)
Alpine MRV-1005 (2ch to be replaced with a MRV-1505)

the two four channel amps will be configured to run the front stage. they offer bandpass crossovers on each channel with a x20 switch to allow full active capability (in 1996!)

I have cleaned the F505 since this picture was taken. The F505 is the roughest of the bunch but was the hardest to find.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/Accord2013trunkamps001.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/Accord2013trunkamps002.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/Accord2013trunkamps006.jpg

so i removed everything from the trunk, pulled out the carpet, and began re-doing the wiring. for now, the head unit powers the doors and tweeters for some music in the interim.

all speaker wire is being replaced, 8 channels. 4 left and 4 right. two to the dash for a tweeter and 2" mid. one to the kicks and one to the door. i may only run6 at a time, but will have control of that back at the amps. commercial grade speaker wire with a heavy duty jacket is being used.

RCA's are nicer Monster Cable. a 4-ch and a 2-ch.

the two four channels are going on the driver's side. that way i can easily switch channels around as i see fit. the sub amp will be on the passenger side which gives options for amp size.

power and ground distribution remains as-is. it was already what i needed.

ultracapacitors are now on the driver's side. i removed the old amp mount and made a new one. this one is further recessed into the side. my goal is to gain more width to fit my rifle cases. sadly, the last configuration was too narrow for them.

my previous panels were 3/4" MDF. while sturdy they were very heavy. new panels are 3/4" birch ply.
all mounts for amps and amp boards are with machine screws (8-32 for amps and 10-24 for panels). threaded inserts are used instead of t-nuts this time for a few reasons.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/Accord2013trunkamps004.jpg

i started with a frame for the ultra caps that also acts as a mount for the lower amp. the frame is 2x4's on the top and bottom with 3/4" birch on the sides. 1/4" treated ply for a backing and bottom strip. the frame was ripped down to 2-3/4" wide to match the caps.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/Accord2013trunkamps005.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/Accord2013trunkamps013.jpg

the F505 goes on the bottom because it won't fit on the top. extra work had to be done to make sure the amp heat sinks were clear. fans will be used on the heat sinks.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/Accord2013trunkamps014.jpg

the F405 will go above.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/Accord2013trunkamps015.jpg

keep_hope_alive
08-26-2013, 02:17 AM
The F405 is in very good condition
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/IMG_20130612_200308_663.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/IMG_20130612_200331_718.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/IMG_20130614_221204_632.jpg

keep_hope_alive
08-26-2013, 02:24 AM
getting those mounting boards the way i wanted them took a lot longer than i had expected. there is only 1/2" clear with the amps stacked the way i am mounting them. they are much taller (wider) than the xtant amps before them. keeping the amps vertical and using the recessed portion of the trunk was necessary to also stay clear of the trunk lid hinge.

cosmetically, i won't be able to fully frame both amps. a beauty panel will be made, of course, and will need to obscure part of the lower F505 due to the raised floor (remember i have a full-size spare). i cannot decide how much, if any, to show of the lower amp. i want to show the same amount top and bottom. so i may just reveal the middle with controls and power indicator.

keep_hope_alive
08-26-2013, 08:50 AM
Who the **** are you to come in here and criticize like this? What gives you the right to say if he is qualified to give out advice? Please enlighten us of all the members on here you have helped and tell us how you have contributed to this community on here. Better yet lets see YOUR build log and lets compare how much you know about this hobby.

it's cool. everyone is allowed to criticize. in fact, negative criticism is how we learn and are pushed to be better. best to assume the poster has experience with cars that are legitimately better, so much so, that my effort looks half ***. that is what i believe.

my use of carpet for speaker grills, plastic hu trim, and carpeted panels/seams are indeed a lack of effort on my part. as i explained, i'm not a master fabricator and my skills for making appropriate vinyl wrapped or filled/painted panels are limited. i'm at a point where i do need help with making the car look better. i can make it sound great.

lack of posts doesn't make someone a n00b. the guy likely has more experience and skills than most on this forum.

keep_hope_alive
09-03-2013, 09:10 AM
more progress, less than i had hoped over the weekend but slow and steady...

top board ready with 10-24 inserts
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordVanProgress005.jpg

top mounts secured in a few ways, angle brackets are just one way (it is sturdy)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordVanProgress003.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordVanProgress004.jpg

how they fit
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/AccordVanProgress006.jpg


i'm adding a relay behind the top mount that will act as a amp turn-on, and another that will act as a fan turn-on. given our winters, i'm not sure a fan is required all of the time (and I want the ability to turn them off in case they are audible). i will have temperature monitoring on one of the amps.

bradsworth
09-05-2013, 09:35 AM
Cool updates. Hard to believe those amps are better equipped than most on the market today. How will you handle monitoring the temperature of the amp? I have overheating issues and would like to setup a temp controlled fan so I'm not drawing the power when not needed.

Also I have a 2000 Acura TL which is very similar to your accord. Have you had any issues with your exhaust heating up your trunk excessively? or have you already taken measures to prevent excess heat? I took a temp recording after an hour of driving and my trunk was well over 150 degrees. It doesn't seem to get enough ventilation since I sealed it off for IB.

phemps
09-06-2013, 03:51 AM
Cool updates. Hard to believe those amps are better equipped than most on the market today. How will you handle monitoring the temperature of the amp? I have overheating issues and would like to setup a temp controlled fan so I'm not drawing the power when not needed.

Also I have a 2000 Acura TL which is very similar to your accord. Have you had any issues with your exhaust heating up your trunk excessively? or have you already taken measures to prevent excess heat? I took a temp recording after an hour of driving and my trunk was well over 150 degrees. It doesn't seem to get enough ventilation since I sealed it off for IB.

you can use pretty much any 12 volt digital temp controller, i thought about trying one out in my car. KHA i love checking out your work, i like that you change your equipment around so often trying to better what was there previously. keep up the good work man

keep_hope_alive
09-12-2013, 07:57 PM
Cool updates. Hard to believe those amps are better equipped than most on the market today. How will you handle monitoring the temperature of the amp? I have overheating issues and would like to setup a temp controlled fan so I'm not drawing the power when not needed.

Also I have a 2000 Acura TL which is very similar to your accord. Have you had any issues with your exhaust heating up your trunk excessively? or have you already taken measures to prevent excess heat? I took a temp recording after an hour of driving and my trunk was well over 150 degrees. It doesn't seem to get enough ventilation since I sealed it off for IB.

my trunk is never excessively hot, but i do have a lot of deadener on the floor and it does have a radiant foil barrier. i will be adding more radiant insulation on the floor now that these amps are going in. earlier in the build i had a multi-meter section and it includes a temperature monitor, i'll be using that. but fans are something all of my systems have - it just happened that my xtant amps had built-in fans so i didn't need external. with these amps i'll have external cooling and another fan behind the rack blowing out. but that means i need to vent the trunk again to pull air in.


you can use pretty much any 12 volt digital temp controller, i thought about trying one out in my car. KHA i love checking out your work, i like that you change your equipment around so often trying to better what was there previously. keep up the good work man

i also change just because this is my hobby and once i finish i feel like i need something else to do.

keep_hope_alive
09-12-2013, 07:57 PM
Cool updates. Hard to believe those amps are better equipped than most on the market today. How will you handle monitoring the temperature of the amp? I have overheating issues and would like to setup a temp controlled fan so I'm not drawing the power when not needed.

Also I have a 2000 Acura TL which is very similar to your accord. Have you had any issues with your exhaust heating up your trunk excessively? or have you already taken measures to prevent excess heat? I took a temp recording after an hour of driving and my trunk was well over 150 degrees. It doesn't seem to get enough ventilation since I sealed it off for IB.

my trunk is never excessively hot, but i do have a lot of deadener on the floor and it does have a radiant foil barrier. i will be adding more radiant insulation on the floor now that these amps are going in. earlier in the build i had a multi-meter section and it includes a temperature monitor, i'll be using that. but fans are something all of my systems have - it just happened that my xtant amps had built-in fans so i didn't need external. with these amps i'll have external cooling and another fan behind the rack blowing out. but that means i need to vent the trunk again to pull air in.


you can use pretty much any 12 volt digital temp controller, i thought about trying one out in my car. KHA i love checking out your work, i like that you change your equipment around so often trying to better what was there previously. keep up the good work man

i also change just because this is my hobby and once i finish i feel like i need something else to do.

keep_hope_alive
09-14-2013, 05:47 AM
Finally, got the Hertz Mille in. it's too late to really comment, other than i am exhausted and happy at the same time.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordmille004.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordmille003.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordmille005.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordmille006.jpg

the spheres were previously used in the Scion tC for testing, then in the floorstanding enclosures. i'll get the logos aligned next. They are currently aimed at the bottom of the opposite c-pillar.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordmille008.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordmille009.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordmille007.jpg

phemps
09-16-2013, 02:11 AM
my trunk is never excessively hot, but i do have a lot of deadener on the floor and it does have a radiant foil barrier. i will be adding more radiant insulation on the floor now that these amps are going in. earlier in the build i had a multi-meter section and it includes a temperature monitor, i'll be using that. but fans are something all of my systems have - it just happened that my xtant amps had built-in fans so i didn't need external. with these amps i'll have external cooling and another fan behind the rack blowing out. but that means i need to vent the trunk again to pull air in.



i also change just because this is my hobby and once i finish i feel like i need something else to do.

I can relate to you there for sure

phemps
09-16-2013, 02:11 AM
my trunk is never excessively hot, but i do have a lot of deadener on the floor and it does have a radiant foil barrier. i will be adding more radiant insulation on the floor now that these amps are going in. earlier in the build i had a multi-meter section and it includes a temperature monitor, i'll be using that. but fans are something all of my systems have - it just happened that my xtant amps had built-in fans so i didn't need external. with these amps i'll have external cooling and another fan behind the rack blowing out. but that means i need to vent the trunk again to pull air in.



i also change just because this is my hobby and once i finish i feel like i need something else to do.

I can relate to you there for sure

keep_hope_alive
09-20-2013, 03:14 PM
It is difficult to put into words how good the Hertz Mille speakers sound. I've done a lot to this car and I have experimented with a lot of different components.

The detail and subtle intricacies of music are now revealed. I'm hearing things in songs that was simply missed before. Impact and attack are insane. I have to be real careful with levels because the overall SPL is much higher but everything sounds so good you don't really notice until you get out of the car and your ears are ringing.

The sound stage has more depth and separation than ever before.

I am finally happy.

keep_hope_alive
09-26-2013, 01:18 AM
today was MLV day. interior has been out for a few weeks. time to ride in quiet.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/AccordMLV001.jpg

laid the radiant barrier down first then the vinyl barrier on top.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/AccordMLV007.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/AccordMLV008.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/AccordMLV009.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/AccordMLV010.jpg

i did remove the factory padding from the carpet to gain some thickness back. everything installed without any issues.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/AccordMLV014.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/AccordMLV017.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/AccordMLV016.jpg



also running an Ultra PRM-12 currently. Wired it in series on the MRV-1005. DCR is 6 ohms in series.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/AccordUltra012.jpg

i need to redo the carpeting on the IB wall. i'm thinking either vinyl or painted.
i also need to redo the wiring for the coils, this was a 5 minute temporary wiring job.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/AccordUltra006.jpg

keep_hope_alive
09-26-2013, 01:22 AM
oh, and i did get the amps wired up, but the F505 was just too big to go down low.

speaker wires are routed up the wheel well inside and route behind the amp rack. RCA's for the driver's side come from the rear of the trunk and route around to the passenger side. Maximum signal separation was the goal with any crossings at 90 deg. angles.

originally, i had all 8 speaker wire pairs (4 left and 4 right) routed to the driver's side with both 4 channel amps. I came to find that putting the larger MRV-F505 on the bottom didn't work out for cabling - the RCA connectors were too close to the wheel well for my comfort and everything was too tight. So I went with the original plan of the MRV-1005 on the bottom. Now I have 4 pairs routed to each side. Speaker wires are commercial grade for use in buildings and are shielded. They have a heavy duty jacket and no extra loom is required. I will end up with more zip ties when I reassemble.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordprogress006.jpg

not done securing the wires that cross sides yet. I have large coils of wire up under the front mats right now.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordprogress007.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordprogress004.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordprogress003.jpg

in order to control fans separate from amps, i have a pair of relays wired to a terminal block. I previously ran CAT5 to the trunk for control of amps or fans. I have a meter set that includes VU meters, voltage, and amp temp. I am going to monitor the lower amp temp. During the winter, fans may be unnecessary, and for any judging I don't want the noise. But summers are just as hot as anywhere else and fans will be a good idea (three total to cover top and bottom heat sinks of both amps)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordprogress002.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordprogress001.jpg

i did decide to carpet the mounting boards once i finalized the size.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordprogress008.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/accordprogress010.jpg

this time around i can actually get to the taillight bulbs and wires without removing an amp mounting board (the xtant board blocked it). I do need a mirror to adjust the amp settings on the side though, luckily that isn't something i will do often.

---------- Post added at 12:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:21 AM ----------

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/09/ydyqy3uj.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/09/yzyja4y5.jpg

there are a lot of wires coming through one spot there - all power or ground. I am not thrilled with how they are routed, i will need to make something to secure and fan them out - i'm thinking brackets. I have separate power and ground for both amps, the cap bank, and control/remote/fan/etc. I also have signal and power from the front coming through from under the IB wall between power and ground distribution.

Kikazz74
09-26-2013, 02:04 PM
Rich, that looks amazing. And you finally got the mille. thats sweet. i definitely need to come down now. but did i sway you into using the threaded inserts? and how u like them? they just seem great to me. i need to get a job here and save up so we can deaden the truck cuz it sounds like crap atm. could use some body work or foam to fill in the holes in the qtr panels but ill have to wait to see how they do. excellent work. now convince my mom to upgrade the stereo in the new journey and itd be a perfect day. lol that car seems built to be turned into a SQ vehicle.

keep_hope_alive
09-26-2013, 05:46 PM
thanks. yes, the threaded inserts were much nicer to work with for amp mounting.

Kikazz74
09-26-2013, 06:29 PM
they are still holding up great on the sub too after half a year. think you'll use the inserts over tnuts now or still use tnuts?

keep_hope_alive
09-26-2013, 07:39 PM
on large subs i will continue to use T-nuts sandwiched between layers of MDF. the inserts will fail in an accident.

Kikazz74
09-26-2013, 09:18 PM
Hmm. Never thought of that. Niw I'm a wee bit worried.

keep_hope_alive
09-27-2013, 08:00 AM
Hmm. Never thought of that. Niw I'm a wee bit worried.

your seat should keep it from hitting you in the head. :) i do try to take forces from an accident into consideration.

also from a theft standpoint, i could pry the inserts out.

Kikazz74
09-27-2013, 10:14 AM
hmm. now uve got me worried. im trying to convince my dad into getting the truck tinted and insure everything for the theft reason.

keep_hope_alive
09-27-2013, 06:03 PM
hmm. now uve got me worried. im trying to convince my dad into getting the truck tinted and insure everything for the theft reason.

just talk to your insurance agent, show them build log photos, and get something written that agrees upon the installed equipment that is covered. anything not bolted/screwed in place is not covered. that means you need to add bolts and brackets to your box.

Kikazz74
09-27-2013, 07:11 PM
Dang. I'd gladly add bolts to the box but I'd rebuild it if I was gonna pull everything out. Do it right this time. No rachet straps...

keep_hope_alive
09-28-2013, 04:08 AM
Dang. I'd gladly add bolts to the box but I'd rebuild it if I was gonna pull everything out. Do it right this time. No rachet straps...

we can bolt through the floor if we drop the gas tank...

i'm sure we can figure out a few places.

Kikazz74
09-28-2013, 11:03 AM
ive got my seats in still with the panels. so id want to take it down to the plastic storage totes under the seats and bolt to that and seal behind the box to the box wall with foam or something. and my box is kinda small so id rebuild it to be right so i dont have to plug a port lol. but thatll have to wait till i get a job. there might be enough room there to do inverted on top but idk. sorry for thread jack. ill be done lol.

keep_hope_alive
11-04-2013, 11:19 PM
*UPDATE*

I sought the insight of a professional, and he gave me a plan for a trunk worthy of my effort and equipment. big changes and a re-redo of the entire trunk is upcoming. i put my stubborn desire to maintain flexibility aside and let the system take a finished approach.

I also just picked up a Hertz Mille sub, ML3000. The result should be the best I can possibly do with the best equipment i can get.

bayless
12-09-2013, 04:55 PM
put this in the driver door day (pass door was done previously)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfgbatt002.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfgbatt005.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/doorfgbatt011.jpg

I think I really need to do this to my 08 GMC Sierra. I am fighting bad noise out of my door speakers. My question to you is, my outer door skin is smooth, no bars. How would you hold the insulation bag to the outer skin. I thought maybe I could make several small ones and just tape them. BUT I would hate to have them come loose in the door. This insulation idea really got my attention. Just not sure how to do it right.

keep_hope_alive
12-09-2013, 09:55 PM
I think I really need to do this to my 08 GMC Sierra. I am fighting bad noise out of my door speakers. My question to you is, my outer door skin is smooth, no bars. How would you hold the insulation bag to the outer skin. I thought maybe I could make several small ones and just tape them. BUT I would hate to have them come loose in the door. This insulation idea really got my attention. Just not sure how to do it right.



the bars just limit the size of the bags. if it were flat i may have orientated the bags vertically. i use aluminum foil tape (true duct tape) as it is designed to stick to metal and hold over the years. i also use it to protect the plastic bag around moving parts.


another idea is to get rigid compressed fiberglass panels (like for ceiling panels and acoustical treatments) from hardware stores which could be cut and glued or taped without the loose bag. i've seem them with a covering or plain/bare.
Armstrong Pebble Square Lay In Unperforated Fiberglass Tile at Menards (http://www.menards.com/main/paint/drop-ceilings/ceiling-tiles/armstrong-pebble-square-lay-in-unperforated-fiberglass-tile/p-1470429.htm)

tiles like this would need to be cut into pieces that can fit into the door, but could span a longer length without concerns of sagging and the plastic could be attached with a spray adhesive.

on one vehicle we did have the window mechanism snag the bag and tear it down. i had to remove it from the speaker hole.

keep_hope_alive
01-01-2014, 12:05 AM
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/Accordsystemdiagram2014.png

plans for 2014

no one wanted to buy the xtant amps so i'll use them again. :)

keep_hope_alive
01-17-2014, 05:53 PM
i was trying to figure out the best way to make the new IB baffle look nicer from inside the car (when the seat is folded down or looking through the armrest).

i already had the three-layer baffle made,
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/IMG_20130520_225049_539.jpg

I just needed something to trim-out the inside view. i tried other materials around the opening (where you can see all three layers) but finally settled on felt.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/IMG_20140117_014208_228.jpg

then i cut another 3/4" piece to act as a beauty panel and provide even more stiffening to bring the baffle to 3" thick.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/1389944845473.jpg

next I need to do some more trunk work
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/accord/2013%20Upgrade/1389945161565.jpg

keep_hope_alive
01-17-2014, 05:57 PM
reminder of what the IB wall frame is:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall003.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordtrunk_IBwall_fg004.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/0610trunkIBwall/accordIBwall038.jpg

DoesDad
01-17-2014, 06:17 PM
Insane perfection as always. :cool: Betya that Mille is gonna sound fantastic!

red13_69_84
02-09-2014, 05:31 AM
Oh it does.... not bad work from that night and artic temps.... glad shes coming together, hope to hear it tuned a little more or dee what else we can come up with and see it in action this summer.

keep_hope_alive
02-09-2014, 12:18 PM
Oh it does.... not bad work from that night and artic temps.... glad shes coming together, hope to hear it tuned a little more or dee what else we can come up with and see it in action this summer.

i'm back in town now. the next effort needs to be amp mounting.

keep_hope_alive
04-01-2014, 08:44 AM
UPDATE

selling the car soon. going to strip everything out and return to "stock"

buying a new car and starting over.

my accord is just fine but time for a nicer platform - 2014 Accord is on the top of my list just above a 2014 Mazda 6.

Giovanni15
04-01-2014, 09:23 AM
UPDATE

selling the car soon. going to strip everything out and return to "stock"

buying a new car and starting over.

my accord is just fine but time for a nicer platform - 2014 Accord is on the top of my list just above a 2014 Mazda 6.

tough choice. But if i had to choose, i would go honda>mazada. they are built so well

keep_hope_alive
04-04-2014, 12:10 AM
tough choice. But if i had to choose, i would go honda>mazada. they are built so well

recent test drives moved the 2014 Camry to #2 (http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2) .

winkychevelle
04-04-2014, 08:12 PM
recent test drives moved the 2014 Camry to #2 (http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2) .

I hate the new camrys they have one of the worst suspensions I have ever ridin on. I do like the accord and the mazda 6, but I really love my 2014 cruze diesel. I had a gas one but 53mpg is alot better than the 30mpg my 2011 LT got and the interior is dead quiet except at idle. Then you can tell I have a diesel motor.

keep_hope_alive
04-04-2014, 10:10 PM
I hate the new camrys they have one of the worst suspensions I have ever ridin on. I do like the accord and the mazda 6, but I really love my 2014 cruze diesel. I had a gas one but 53mpg is alot better than the 30mpg my 2011 LT got and the interior is dead quiet except at idle. Then you can tell I have a diesel motor.

the suspension is the most forgiving and most refined, but that also means it's very lazy.

the Accord is still my #1 (http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1) .

the Passat TDI would be the only diesel i would consider.

LOUDNDEEP
04-05-2014, 12:22 AM
The 2014 accords are really nice. I've been working for honda for eight years now and they are great. The 4 cyl has that stupid cvt trans tho so you might want to look at the 6spd sport or the v6. If you get the six cyl atleast you get the automatic. The Mazda is really nice as well tho so you have a tough choice. The Camry is a Japanese Buick lol.

winkychevelle
04-05-2014, 12:54 AM
the suspension is the most forgiving and most refined, but that also means it's very lazy.

the Accord is still my #1 (http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1) .

the Passat TDI would be the only diesel i would consider.

Vw tdi motors have been having problems recently and while being a few grand cheaper it really shows it. Plus I get better mileage than average tdi drivers.

I like vw but it was 8g more for the one I wanted.

Still the accord was high in my book before deciding on a diesel motor.

keep_hope_alive
04-05-2014, 04:33 PM
Vw tdi motors have been having problems recently and while being a few grand cheaper it really shows it. Plus I get better mileage than average tdi drivers.

I like vw but it was 8g more for the one I wanted.

Still the accord was high in my book before deciding on a diesel motor.

the Passat is a distant 4th, a combination of cost and complexity.

The Accord CVT is better than most CVT but still awkward at low speeds and light throttle use. The Camry transmission is probably the most reliable and also pretty slick. Consumer Reports lists the Camry one of the top sedans in terms of ride quality, interior comfort, interior space, and reliability. It also has larger speaker locations and will easily accommodate my 3" deep woofers. And unlike the Accord LX, you can get power seats in the LE. But it's not very good looking, you get steel wheels in the LE, and the gauges are stupid.

I am about 80% sold on the Accord. I'd like an EX-L but I cannot justify the extra cost. I don't like the 2011-2012 models very much. 2013 had CVT issues.