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Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 06:08 PM
http://i.imgur.com/ncsmj.jpg?0

Seriously, I hate this ****. Had to make the adapter out in the cold cause my step dad bitched at me cause I make "too much dust" when I work in the cellar. Spent close to an hour moving everything to the garage and jerry rig'd some bs work station to cut it out. Finally get it installed and not 5 minutes later the whole **** thing just splits. Oh, and then I got pissed and got back in my car only to run over my door panel I had lying on the ground

murph
02-13-2012, 06:09 PM
birch man

wenn_du_weinst
02-13-2012, 06:10 PM
next time use pine plywood it's cheaper and wouldn't split.

Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 06:12 PM
I have some cabinet ply lying around that I really wanted to use for a false floor but I guess I'm gonna have to cut into that..

wenn_du_weinst
02-13-2012, 06:13 PM
with something as small as that in a daily driver what ever is laying around is fine. just need to make sure you seal it this time or it will get moldy.

skylineTT
02-13-2012, 06:16 PM
at least they are nice mids..

Nut Hair Trick
02-13-2012, 06:18 PM
I normally use MDF with washers and did so on my most recent build, but I will probably give birch a try next go around.

manyhobbies
02-13-2012, 06:20 PM
Times 2, guys in the shop are turning to birch, a little more money but deff tuff and better than standard plywood. It does look like you countersunk it a bit much though.

wenn_du_weinst
02-13-2012, 06:22 PM
for an enclosure use birch, for an adapter in a non sq car use what ever you have. In a sq car don't use wood at all.

Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 06:23 PM
The problem is the screw I am using is so short I need to countersink about 3/8" - 1/2" for it to attach tightly to the door itself. I'll make an adapter using some of that ply and coat it in some paint or something to seal it up

---------- Post added at 05:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:22 PM ----------


for an enclosure use birch, for an adapter in a non sq car use what ever you have. In a sq car don't use wood at all.

My pathfinder is not geared towards sq...the mids cost me $70 as a whole. If I wanted SQ I would have gotten a car not an SUV

manyhobbies
02-13-2012, 06:24 PM
Right on. Use epoxy, that will also strengthen it.

The problem is the screw I am using is so short I need to countersink about 3/8" - 1/2" for it to attach tightly to the door itself. I'll make an adapter using some of that ply and coat it in some paint or something to seal it up

---------- Post added at 05:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:22 PM ----------



My pathfinder is not geared towards sq...the mids cost me $70 as a whole. If I wanted SQ I would have gotten a car not an SUV

Louisiana_CRX
02-13-2012, 06:26 PM
wood glue clamps and seal will fix that :fyi:

Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 06:29 PM
Right on. Use epoxy, that will also strengthen it.

Don't have any here, wish the screw was longer though I wouldn't have this problem in the first place

---------- Post added at 05:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:28 PM ----------


wood glue clamps and seal will fix that :fyi:

Too ghetto for me...I'd just assume make a new adapter

Nut Hair Trick
02-13-2012, 06:32 PM
The problem is the screw I am using is so short I need to countersink about 3/8" - 1/2" for it to attach tightly to the door itself. I'll make an adapter using some of that ply and coat it in some paint or something to seal it up[COLOR="Silver"]


That was my problem as well. No way in hell would the screws I had available fit through the MDF and the door, so instead of counter sinking I routed out notches on the tabs and used washers behind the bolts. I plati-dipped the **** out of the baffles to keep them from getting wet and splitting.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/fullyinvolved/G35%20build/002.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/fullyinvolved/G35%20build/0152.jpg

Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 06:34 PM
Cool idea, unfortunately I don't have a router. If I had a router I wouldn't be remaking my adapter in the first place (I made a new one because the mounting hole on my old one was too large. I cut them out with a jigsaw late at night and I wasn't being very accurate)

bubbagumper6
02-13-2012, 06:36 PM
It's really not that big of a deal man, a little glue and a couple clamps will have that fixed within a few hours (Like LaCRX said)

Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 06:37 PM
It's really not that big of a deal man, a little glue and a couple clamps will have that fixed within a few hours (Like LaCRX said)

I know it's not a big deal I'm just pissed it happened in the first place lol my day was already going ****** so this didn't help

Nut Hair Trick
02-13-2012, 06:40 PM
Hell yeah, wood glue and clamps. And like someone mentioned above, coat that ***** in epoxy. Shouldn't have any more problems after that.

bubbagumper6
02-13-2012, 06:42 PM
Don't sweat the small stuff man, life is full of setbacks and disappointment. For example, I'm in the process of collecting parts to build my own welder so I can fix the dog cage that my dog keeps tearing apart (and escaping from).

Nut Hair Trick
02-13-2012, 06:49 PM
Don't sweat the small stuff man, life is full of setbacks and disappointment. For example, I'm in the process of collecting parts to build my own welder so I can fix the dog cage that my dog keeps tearing apart (and escaping from).
Yeah no ****, I just experienced some of that myself. Just built an enclosure for my ride and the SOB fell off my stool in the garage yesterday. Took a corner off that MFr and had cracks and **** in 2 other places. I took a much bigger roundover to that edge with the missing corner and epoxy'd the cracks. Adapt and overcome. But I hope my **** and f'd up when it gets ta playin.

nismos14
02-13-2012, 06:52 PM
Should of just used longer screws instead of counter sinking so **** much, not to mention the large diameter of the bolt.

bubbagumper6
02-13-2012, 06:54 PM
Yeah no ****, I just experienced some of that myself. Just built an enclosure for my ride and the SOB fell off my stool in the garage yesterday. Took a corner off that MFr and had cracks and **** in 2 other places. I took a much bigger roundover to that edge with the missing corner and epoxy'd the cracks. Adapt and overcome. But I hope my **** and f'd up when it gets ta playin.

haha, I remember during my last build for my hatchback the very tip of the wedge shaped enclosure was causing the entire thing to not fit and this was ~7 cubes too so not exactly small. Solution? Just grab the saw and lop off that tip. We cut a new piece to run across the front vertically to span the gap and viola she fit. Didn't end up losing that much airspace either. Adapt and overcome is exactly right.

Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 08:07 PM
Should of just used longer screws instead of counter sinking so **** much, not to mention the large diameter of the bolt.

Those are the same screws that were used for the factory adapters and I don't have anything in a size that will fit

Imtjnotu
02-13-2012, 08:10 PM
what speakers are those......


and just use pine man

Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 08:20 PM
what speakers are those......


and just use pine man

lanzar opti6pm rated at 200 rms iirc.

Imtjnotu
02-13-2012, 08:22 PM
lanzar opti6pm rated at 200 rms iirc.

jose' old speakers?

keep_hope_alive
02-13-2012, 08:25 PM
i use bolts on the baffles into the car - any size you want. you don't need to worry about factory screws. you can reach through before you mount the speakers.

simply painted when i didn't have deadener
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/2008%20Scion%20xB/2008ScionxB031.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/2008%20Scion%20xB/2008ScionxB034.jpg

or not painted when i had deadener
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening018.jpg
used machine bolts and nuts to hold it in place
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening020.jpg
deadener to keep it waterproof
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Accord%202009/Copyofdoordeadening024.jpg

i've also used resin to harden and waterproof MDF rings before.


yea, the countersink is what screwed you. don't do that with MDF. :)

keep_hope_alive
02-13-2012, 08:28 PM
FYI - the doors in the bottom pic is in my accord. i'll be undoing all of that very shortly to accommodate larger/deeper drivers. that mounting is too restrictive (airflow from rear). i'll use MDF next time as well, but resin and FG and making a cone-type shape that gets smaller instead of larger, and also open up the door metal more.

in the future - never place interior parts on the ground under the car. put them on top, back seat, or on a workbench. i've ALMOST ran over parts before.

you had an off day - one where you were rushing and shyt went bad. days when you are in a hurry, that happens.

I Like Waffle
02-13-2012, 08:43 PM
looks like you overtightened it in the first place fatass jew

Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 08:51 PM
looks like you overtightened it in the first place fatass jew

It was barely touching the door panel lol

Kangaroux
02-13-2012, 08:52 PM
FYI - the doors in the bottom pic is in my accord. i'll be undoing all of that very shortly to accommodate larger/deeper drivers. that mounting is too restrictive (airflow from rear). i'll use MDF next time as well, but resin and FG and making a cone-type shape that gets smaller instead of larger, and also open up the door metal more.

in the future - never place interior parts on the ground under the car. put them on top, back seat, or on a workbench. i've ALMOST ran over parts before.

you had an off day - one where you were rushing and shyt went bad. days when you are in a hurry, that happens.

My door panel was sitting in my back seat but after I got the adapter in I took the door panel out but set it on the ground cause I needed to run inside to grab something real quick. When I came back out I saw the adapter was all messed up so that's when I got in the car lol

globalminds_ent
02-13-2012, 08:59 PM
Don't sweat the small stuff man, life is full of setbacks and disappointment. For example, I'm in the process of collecting parts to build my own welder so I can fix the dog cage that my dog keeps tearing apart (and escaping from).

stop putting your dog in a cage it wouldn't try to escape my dog doesn't have a cage she just lays around the yard and waits to eat

bubbagumper6
02-13-2012, 08:59 PM
stop putting your dog in a cage it wouldn't try to escape my dog doesn't have a cage she just lays around the yard and waits to eat

That would be fine if I had a yard...

Don't tell me how to raise my dog bro

manyhobbies
02-13-2012, 09:02 PM
Nica and clean. I like that.

That was my problem as well. No way in hell would the screws I had available fit through the MDF and the door, so instead of counter sinking I routed out notches on the tabs and used washers behind the bolts. I plati-dipped the **** out of the baffles to keep them from getting wet and splitting.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/fullyinvolved/G35%20build/002.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/fullyinvolved/G35%20build/0152.jpg

globalminds_ent
02-13-2012, 09:06 PM
That would be fine if I had a yard...

Don't tell me how to raise my dog bro

I wouldn't want to live in a cage so I wouldn't put a dog in a cage

manyhobbies
02-13-2012, 09:07 PM
If screws are an issue, stop by a hardware store, menards, lowes or somethin, somebody has got to have some screws that would work.
Those are the same screws that were used for the factory adapters and I don't have anything in a size that will fit

keep_hope_alive
02-13-2012, 09:36 PM
If screws are an issue, stop by a hardware store, menards, lowes or somethin, somebody has got to have some screws that would work.

Agreed. I have boxes of jars hardware, drawers of hardware. Literally thousands of screws, bolts,etc. but come install time, I make a hardware store run.

nineball
02-13-2012, 10:40 PM
mdf can work, you just need to seal it and be careful what you do to it. i used t-nuts for the speaker for this set of rings and countersunk 3 holes for bolts to hold it to the door.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/100_8538.jpg


a couple layers of resin to seal it (this is after the first one only)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/100_8581.jpg

mounted to the door

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/IMG_0228.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/IMG_0229.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/IMG_0230.jpg

bubbagumper6
02-13-2012, 10:46 PM
Is that just regular fiberglass resin? Where's the best place to get fiberglass and/or resin? Never used either but I'd like to in the future especially for waterproofing mdf like that (my mdf split because of moisture I believe)

nineball
02-13-2012, 11:00 PM
Is that just regular fiberglass resin? Where's the best place to get fiberglass and/or resin? Never used either but I'd like to in the future especially for waterproofing mdf like that (my mdf split because of moisture I believe)


if you are just sealing some mdf any old resin will do. this is the only time i would ever suggest using bondo brand (it's cheap and ****** but will seal the wood). you can get it at any lowes or home depot, hell even some wal-marts carry it in the auto section.

if you are going to be building something using glass then Fiberglass , Epoxy , Composites, Carbon Fiber - U.S. Composites, Inc. (http://www.uscomposites.com) is the place to shop for supplies.

TheUnderFighter
02-13-2012, 11:06 PM
I, like others, have heard sealing it with resin works wonders. Also, getting out of MDF all together, I know a guy used several cuts of the plastic material cutting boards are made of, and sealed them together. As strange as it sounds, it's actually phenomenal, and a really nice build all around.
Audi S4 active build with HAT, Zapco - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/94025-audi-s4-active-build-hat-zapco.html)
It's in there, Post 144, page 6

nineball
02-14-2012, 12:48 AM
even easier than that is to just buy some cheap cutting boards at wal-mart and make your rings from that. they come in a variety of sizes but 1/2" or more for thickness and you are set. same procedure as wood - a few shallow passes with the router, just on a lower speed.

keep_hope_alive
02-14-2012, 01:19 AM
if you are just sealing some mdf any old resin will do. this is the only time i would ever suggest using bondo brand (it's cheap and ****** but will seal the wood). you can get it at any lowes or home depot, hell even some wal-marts carry it in the auto section.

if you are going to be building something using glass then Fiberglass , Epoxy , Composites, Carbon Fiber - U.S. Composites, Inc. (http://www.uscomposites.com) is the place to shop for supplies.

I agree.

Bondo is waxy - meaning you need thin layers, too thick on the first pass and you'll just get a glob. It doesn't soak into the MDF as well as non-wax resins. A heat lamp can help if it is cold - resin has a temperature range to properly cure. hardener needs to be precisely mixed, just follow the instructions and count your drops.

If you just want to waterproof your MDF - run to Walmart, spend <$10 on a can of Bondo Resin, get some $0.99 brushes, plastic cups, disposable gloves, and have at it. with the cups, i found that making a mark on the inside that corresponds to a certain volume (i.e. 2 cups) that you can calculate the hardener drops with - makes the process easier. you can buy plastic cups with measurements on them, but any disposable cup will do. with baffles, you don't need more than a few cups of resin. remember to only mix what you need. you can always mix more if need be but you can't save what you don't use in 10-15 minutes (for Bondo). When it starts acting like gel, pitch it and mix more (and use a new brush).

But U.S. Composites is very affordable and far superior to Bondo. Use both, and you'll understand.

Decoupling the baffle from the door can help with structure-borne resonance. the firm closed cell weatherstripping foams can work, as can non-hardening modeling clay. Both are less than $5 to do both baffles.

Kangaroux
02-14-2012, 05:45 PM
Alright, today was better :). Cut out a new adapter using that cabinet ply, drilled out the holes for the adapter on my door some to fit a bolt, and then I secured that to the door itself -- this adapter isn't going anywhere lol

Phoenix Risen
02-14-2012, 05:59 PM
the real problem in the op is the design of the rings, not the material.

ive used mdf multiple times and even cardboard covered in duct tape in a crunch, it all depends on how well you put it together.

wenn_du_weinst
02-14-2012, 06:02 PM
cardboard+duct tape means mids canceling out ;)

The_Grimy_One
02-14-2012, 06:09 PM
mdf can work, you just need to seal it and be careful what you do to it. i used t-nuts for the speaker for this set of rings and countersunk 3 holes for bolts to hold it to the door.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/100_8538.jpg


a couple layers of resin to seal it (this is after the first one only)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/100_8581.jpg

mounted to the door

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/IMG_0228.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/IMG_0229.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/ms-8%20build/IMG_0230.jpg

What kind of car is this???

Phoenix Risen
02-14-2012, 06:17 PM
cardboard+duct tape means mids canceling out ;)

it was in for all of about 2 days, just something very temp to get them playing.

9515ROB
02-14-2012, 06:38 PM
Yeah OP i think that is pretty much your fault for pre drilling the screws so far in. I dont think it would have done that if you didnt sink them in so far

Kangaroux
02-14-2012, 06:52 PM
Yeah OP i think that is pretty much your fault for pre drilling the screws so far in. I dont think it would have done that if you didnt sink them in so far

I'm aware of that, I didn't have anything else to attach them with but the factory screws which are close to 1/4" long. I am so used to working with actual wood that I forgot how prone MDF is to splitting

nineball
02-14-2012, 08:28 PM
What kind of car is this???


that was in an 05 neon but i traded it in last month.

The_Grimy_One
02-14-2012, 10:20 PM
that was in an 05 neon but i traded it in last month.

I thought so...I got the same door panel. Lol.I may need to hit you up on some pointers. Those plastic baffles blow.

nineball
02-14-2012, 11:29 PM
ya they ******.

I Like Waffle
02-22-2012, 11:19 AM
that was in an 05 neon but i traded it in last month.

Smartest man on the forum

nineball
02-22-2012, 11:30 AM
Smartest man on the forum

naaa. i give credit where credit is due, and a neon is a great little car for what it is - small, great gas mileage, easy and cheap to fix. i had 3 of them in a row for work cars (95,98,2005) and logged over 400k miles on them combined.

brodeisel
02-22-2012, 11:42 AM
I need help figuring out what resin to buy.

nineball
02-22-2012, 11:48 AM
I need help figuring out what resin to buy.

what do you want to do with it? if just "sealing" mdf get anything you can, it won't matter. if using it to build a glass piece then uscomposites.com.

ngsm13
02-22-2012, 01:36 PM
Pre-drill your MDF and metal with a smaller bit first, then slightly countersink and you shouldn't have the problem.

Regardless, for doors I usually use some type of cheap ply as doors sometimes get moisture and I don't like moldy MDF.

Kangaroux
02-22-2012, 01:46 PM
Pre-drill your MDF and metal with a smaller bit first, then slightly countersink and you shouldn't have the problem.

Regardless, for doors I usually use some type of cheap ply as doors sometimes get moisture and I don't like moldy MDF.

Did this and it still split, but now I have some cabinet ply in there with 0 issues

I Like Waffle
02-22-2012, 09:38 PM
naaa. i give credit where credit is due, and a neon is a great little car for what it is - small, great gas mileage, easy and cheap to fix. i had 3 of them in a row for work cars (95,98,2005) and logged over 400k miles on them combined.

Does it mean my ford inline 6 is a better engine if it has more miles on it than all your neons combined?

nineball
02-22-2012, 09:48 PM
Does it mean my ford inline 6 is a better engine if it has more miles on it than all your neons combined?

i don't see why it would