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thevolunator
12-27-2011, 04:20 PM
Hi, I have a 2008 Xterra (see sig.) it has 6x9's in the front doors and 6.5's in the back doors with tweets in the dash. I'm a bit of an "audiophile" but I also don't have a fortune to invest either, so I guess what I'm saying is I want the best setup/sound possible for under a $1000.

My questions are...

- Should I change out my 6x9's to 6.5's in the front doors? I've always heard that 6.5's have better sq than 6x9's...If not what would be the best 6x9 component's out there($300 to $600 range)

- Back doors...I want the best possible "mid bass" so, should I go with a 6.5 driver?(and get ALL my "high's" from my tweets in the dash) or will I be losing to much "mid range" by doing that?

Should I just go with the best possible coax back there and balance out the "High's"? I do like crisp/clean high's...but, which application would make for a better sound stage?

- How possible would it be too or is it even worth the trouble of...trying a small "mid-range/tweeter coax" in the dash to raise the the mid-range/ stage higher?

Don't know if they make any such speaker that small though..

- I plan on Dynamat'ing my doors...Are their any other ways to "seal" or enclose my door speakers to improve my sq?

You can see what I'm working with from my sig...Any suggestions whether it be speaker brands, speaker types or just helpful hints are greatly appreciated.

thanks


Edit: I plan on upgrading my sub eventually, the dealer suggested the JL Audio "Stealth Box" SB-N-XTERR2/12W3v3/2
but, I've read that subs 'aimed' from the side do not sound as good as subs aimed toward the back...I do want to keep the vehicle as close to "stock" as possible.
(don't want to have to move or RE-move the box every time I need to haul something) Thoughts?

thevolunator
12-27-2011, 06:00 PM
Would also like your thoughts/suggestions on brands...The dealer here seems to favor JL Audio for everything,
just want to know that I'm not missing out on better sq because I chose to listen to one salesman.

mylows10
12-27-2011, 06:02 PM
check out the cdt line ,they make some really nice sq speakers.then send me a pm for cost

Why So Cereal?
12-27-2011, 06:19 PM
Hi, I have a 2008 Xterra (see sig.) it has 6x9's in the front doors and 6.5's in the back doors with tweets in the dash. I'm a bit of an "audiophile" but I also don't have a fortune to invest either, so I guess what I'm saying is I want the best setup/sound possible for under a $1000.

My questions are...

- Should I change out my 6x9's to 6.5's in the front doors? I've always heard that 6.5's have better sq than 6x9's...If not what would be the best 6x9 component's out there($300 to $600 range)
I would, simply because its easier to get a good 6.5 comp set than a 6x9 one and you can still get good midbass from 6.5s. As far as comps to look into, Hybrid Audio and Boston Acoustics would be my choices in that price range.
- Back doors...I want the best possible "mid bass" so, should I go with a 6.5 driver?(and get ALL my "high's" from my tweets in the dash) or will I be losing to much "mid range" by doing that?
Its pretty common for people to run a midbass in rear, as long as you still run your component set up front, you wont miss out on any midrange.
Should I just go with the best possible coax back there and balance out the "High's"? I do like crisp/clean high's...but, which application would make for a better sound stage?
For simple rear fill, without time alignment and such, and maintain a good sound stage, you could run a mid bandpassed from 300hz to 3000hz and attenuated to keep from interfering with your sound stage. You can do that by simply using your fader on your HU. a coax back there could be pretty difficult to integrate for a good sound stage.
- How possible would it be too or is it even worth the trouble of...trying a small "mid-range/tweeter coax" in the dash to raise the the mid-range/ stage higher?

Don't know if they make any such speaker that small though..

It probably wont be worth the effort unless you just want to do it for something different.

- I plan on Dynamat'ing my doors...Are their any other ways to "seal" or enclose my door speakers to improve my sq?
People typically use sheet metal or mdf to seal up those holes in the door panel. This will increase your midbass and clean up your midrange due to backwave control.

You can see what I'm working with from my sig...Any suggestions whether it be speaker brands, speaker types or just helpful hints are greatly appreciated.

thanks


Edit: I plan on upgrading my sub eventually, the dealer suggested the JL Audio "Stealth Box" SB-N-XTERR2/12W3v3/2
but, I've read that subs 'aimed' from the side do not sound as good as subs aimed toward the back...I do want to keep the vehicle as close to "stock" as possible.
(don't want to have to move or RE-move the box every time I need to haul something) Thoughts? no experience with the JL stealthboxes but you could always just run a sub that likes small boxes like the Dayton Reference HO. I'm sure that wont take up enough space to be a bother but thats up to you.


answered in bold. hope I helped a little

Jeremy M
12-27-2011, 06:21 PM
put image dynamic XS69 upfront and cheap coax in back.

put 200+rms to ID xs69's

PROFIT.

thevolunator
12-27-2011, 06:56 PM
answered in bold. hope I helped a little

Thanks man, great stuff! That is a good point and good idea about the rear's(and kind of what I thought might happen to the sound stage)

How easy is it to seal my doors like that? Is that something that I should let the dealer do or is it a "DIY" project?

Also, if the tweets are in dash mounted, do I need to lean toward a "brighter" tweet? (because of the positioning)

And, I read that a lot of people are pumping the Hertz comp's. I just checked them out on line and they have a set of Hertz HSK 165 6.5's for about $500.
How would these compare with the Boston's/Hybrid's that you mentioned?

Edit: also, how important is the crossover? would it be better try and "upgrade" the crossover from a higher end set of components or are the matched specific?

Why So Cereal?
12-27-2011, 07:33 PM
Thanks man, great stuff! That is a good point and good idea about the rear's(and kind of what I thought might happen to the sound stage)

How easy is it to seal my doors like that? Is that something that I should let the dealer do or is it a "DIY" project?
depends on how handy you are, you'll need to cut the pieces to fit the door then simply drill screws through the existing frame on the door to hold the seal in place.
Also, if the tweets are in dash mounted, do I need to lean toward a "brighter" tweet? (because of the positioning)
lean towards whatever tweeter sounds best to your ear if you can listen to some stuff before buying. I'm not sure exactly how they are aimed, but depend on your EQ if you find your tweets are too loud or not loud enough in comparison to your mids/midbass. You may actually want to try different tweeter locations before you choose a permanent one as this will affect your sound stage as well.
And, I read that a lot of people are pumping the Hertz comp's. I just checked them out on line and they have a set of Hertz HSK 165 6.5's for about $500.
How would these compare with the Boston's/Hybrid's that you mentioned?
I hear good things about Hertz comps online, I've listened to their whole lineup except the Mille and they do sound very smooth, but a little overpriced IMO.
Hybrid Audio is known for winning SQ comps left and right with their products, thus that suggestion, pricey as well though. Boston Acoustics makes some of my favorite comps though. They perform well in every price range IMO. They are very smooth and detailed. But, remember my ears are different than yours. Its always best to try and listen to some speakers before buying especially for the money youre lookiing to spend. If you cant, then I guess you'll have to rely on reviews which in that case, I still vote for either Hybrid or Boston. :)

Edit: also, how important is the crossover? would it be better try and "upgrade" the crossover from a higher end set of components or are the matched specific?
just use the crossover that comes with them, upgrading it will not change the sound and can actually ruin it since the xovers are designed to work with the impedance changes and phase shifts of those particular drivers.


bold again!

thevolunator
12-27-2011, 08:58 PM
bold again!

Thanks again...

I think that I'll "price check" and see how much they'll charge to seal the doors and dynamat them. Maybe a way for me to save money and do it myself.
As for the tweeter positions...They're flat, pointing strait up toward the sky, which is why I thought it may be a good thing to go with a slightly bright tweet.(it's hard to tell though because most of the time when you're listening at the store, the tweets are pointed directed at you)

As of now, I'm looking at...either.

Hertz - Comp HighEnergy HSK 165xl's for staging, with the Hertz Comp HighEnergy HV 165XL's in the rear doors(bandpassed from 300hz to 3000hz like you suggested)

or

Hybrid Audio - Clarus C61-2's for staging with a good quality mid-bass driver(can't find a Hybrid on line)for the rear doors

or

JL Audio - C5-570's for my stage with the C5-650cw's in the rear doors

or

Focal - 165 KR's for my staging with a slightly cheaper 'mid-bass driver' in the rear doors(probably a different brand)

So, those are the one's I'm down too. Next on the list is trying to cut that list to two/three. :emb:

Why So Cereal?
12-27-2011, 09:06 PM
Thanks again...

I think that I'll "price check" and see how much they'll charge to seal the doors and dynamat them. Maybe a way for me to save money and do it myself.
As for the tweeter positions...They're flat, pointing strait up toward the sky, which is why I thought it may be a good thing to go with a slightly bright tweet.(it's hard to tell though because most of the time when you're listening at the store, the tweets are pointed directed at you)

As of now, I'm looking at...either.

Hertz - Comp HighEnergy HSK 165xl's for staging, with the Hertz Comp HighEnergy HV 165XL's in the rear doors(bandpassed from 300hz to 3000hz like you suggested)

or

Hybrid Audio - Clarus C61-2's for staging with a good quality mid-bass driver(can't find a Hybrid on line)for the rear doors

or

JL Audio - C5-570's for my stage with the C5-650cw's in the rear doors

or

Focal - 165 KR's for my staging with a slightly cheaper 'mid-bass driver' in the rear doors(probably a different brand)

So, those are the one's I'm down too. Next on the list is trying to cut that list to two/three. :emb:

on the note of the tweeters, if theyre facing straight up, theyre probably reflecting off of the windshield and sometimes this can cause them to seem "bright". Just find some tweeters you like and play around with the EQ and placement and aiming on them to tailor the sound for your liking.

Why no Boston Acoustics in the line up? :(

thevolunator
12-27-2011, 09:38 PM
on the note of the tweeters, if theyre facing straight up, theyre probably reflecting off of the windshield and sometimes this can cause them to seem "bright". Just find some tweeters you like and play around with the EQ and placement and aiming on them to tailor the sound for your liking.

Why no Boston Acoustics in the line up? :(


I do like the Boston-Pro60SE's but I have the same issue with them as I do the Focal & the Hybrid's...I cant find a comparable mid-bass driver for the rear's.

As far as the tweets then...I could go with a good 'silk' (cause I read where normally silk tweets aren't as bright) tweeter and it would be bright enough reflecting off the windshield?

Guess I'm going out tomorrow to see if I can listen to some of them...I know the place that installed my hu carries Focal/Boston/JL Audio but, I don't know who carries the Hertz/Hybrid's locally.

Also, on the subs...I had/have (2) of the JL 6w3v3's in my Ford F-150 extended cab.(before I wrecked it) Now, I have the Xterra. Those subs sounded really good in the truck.(haven't had them in the Xterra yet) But, the salesman at the dealer said those probably wouldn't work in the Xterra.(which is why I was looking into the 'stealth box") and like I posted earlier a lot of people say that subs mounted from the side don't hit the "sweet spot" in SUV applications...I guess what I'm saying is, I don't want to shell out that extra $1200 for the stealth box & amp if I can achieve close to the same sq with my current amp/subs. What do you think?

Why So Cereal?
12-27-2011, 09:53 PM
I do like the Boston-Pro60SE's but I have the same issue with them as I do the Focal & the Hybrid's...I cant find a comparable mid-bass driver for the rear's.

As far as the tweets then...I could go with a good 'silk' (cause I read where normally silk tweets aren't as bright) tweeter and it would be bright enough reflecting off the windshield?

Guess I'm going out tomorrow to see if I can listen to some of them...I know the place that installed my hu carries Focal/Boston/JL Audio but, I don't know who carries the Hertz/Hybrid's locally.

Also, on the subs...I had/have (2) of the JL 6w3v3's in my Ford F-150 extended cab.(before I wrecked it) Now, I have the Xterra. Those subs sounded really good in the truck.(haven't had them in the Xterra yet) But, the salesman at the dealer said those probably wouldn't work in the Xterra.(which is why I was looking into the 'stealth box") and like I posted earlier a lot of people say that subs mounted from the side don't hit the "sweet spot" in SUV applications...I guess what I'm saying is, I don't want to shell out that extra $1200 for the stealth box & amp if I can achieve close to the same sq with my current amp/subs. What do you think?

for the rear midbass, you can always go to partsexpress.com and pick up a nice one that 'll just do the job of rear fill. If you go on Hybrid's website, you can find dealers as well.

for the subs.....honestly, I'm not sure. Its pretty obvious youre not looking for much bass...what about a JL Audio 12w6 in a nice sealed or ported box. will do very nice for SQ with that 600w rms. or also look into the Dayton Reference HO 12 Dual Voice Coil on partsexpress.com I've had both subs, and the SQ is very similar, the w6 has more output though.

thevolunator
12-27-2011, 10:06 PM
for the rear midbass, you can always go to partsexpress.com and pick up a nice one that 'll just do the job of rear fill. If you go on Hybrid's website, you can find dealers as well.

for the subs.....honestly, I'm not sure. Its pretty obvious youre not looking for much bass...what about a JL Audio 12w6 in a nice sealed or ported box. will do very nice for SQ with that 600w rms. or also look into the Dayton Reference HO 12 Dual Voice Coil on partsexpress.com I've had both subs, and the SQ is very similar, the w6 has more output though.

Yeah, that's kind of what the dealer said...My only issue with my current subs is their range, they didn't have as much "bottom" as I'm looking for. and he said that they would be worse in the Xterra because there is "more air to move". I guess, my thought was if I direct them toward the back window(the "sweet spot") that they might work. (temporarily at least) Also, I don't have the XD600/1 yet...was going to buy it when I got the stealth box...hence the "extra $1200" in the last post.

This is also why I'm was wanting to get a nice quality driver for rear doors to help out with the mid to low end...


Edit: would it be better to use the money that I had set aside for the sub upgrade and get the "Imprint" system from Alpine? I would like to know how much difference that actually makes in sq..

Why So Cereal?
12-27-2011, 10:18 PM
you'll get much better pricing if you buy online and simply let them do the install work, unless you can do it yourself. no way it should be $1200 for a 600w amp and a entry level 12.

your issue with the low end could be the enclosure, but probably just since they are only 6's they wont do as well down low as a larger sub due to less cone area.

as long as you get good comps up front, and seal those doors, youll have all the midbass you need. Most comps will play down to 80hz and the ones you are looking at probably will go even lower, the rear midbass will only be rear fill. Your subs can pick up where your fronts leave off.

thevolunator
12-27-2011, 10:59 PM
So, just any good mid-range will be good in the rear then?
I was looking at "driver" type mid's thinking I could tune them for the lower end/ mid-bass to the middle frequency's (kind of like setting them up as a 3-way comp system...as I type this out though I see that probably won't work)

And, yes I think I can do most of the work...(except building a custom box) They said that the sub would run around $150 to $200 and probably twice that amount for the box.(which puts me in the $600 range) then the amp is $400 on the JL website(also what they quoted me)
that's how I came upon the $1200 number(for installation and everything)

My box with the 6's was a "custom" ported box that they built to fit under the back seat of my truck(the one I wrecked)
I wonder If I could just get a different type box built for my 6's that might help me get more out of them....(I don't know)
Would love to be able to invest some of that money back into my comps/enclosures.

And no, I'm not worried about the spl outside of the car, I just want it to hit every note in every range inside the car.
(by hit, I mean move the air inside the car down to the lowest low...
pretty sure you know what I mean. It's hard to explain to someone who doesn't
get into this stuff like we do though)

thevolunator
12-27-2011, 11:28 PM
Here is the stealth box I've been looking at...He said the XD600/1 would be perfect for it...It rms's @ 500w (with a peak of 1000w) http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt299/thevolunator/14090.jpg

thevolunator
12-27-2011, 11:41 PM
nm

Why So Cereal?
12-28-2011, 03:21 PM
So, just any good mid-range will be good in the rear then?
I was looking at "driver" type mid's thinking I could tune them for the lower end/ mid-bass to the middle frequency's (kind of like setting them up as a 3-way comp system...as I type this out though I see that probably won't work)

And, yes I think I can do most of the work...(except building a custom box) They said that the sub would run around $150 to $200 and probably twice that amount for the box.(which puts me in the $600 range) then the amp is $400 on the JL website(also what they quoted me)
that's how I came upon the $1200 number(for installation and everything)

My box with the 6's was a "custom" ported box that they built to fit under the back seat of my truck(the one I wrecked)
I wonder If I could just get a different type box built for my 6's that might help me get more out of them....(I don't know)
Would love to be able to invest some of that money back into my comps/enclosures.

And no, I'm not worried about the spl outside of the car, I just want it to hit every note in every range inside the car.
(by hit, I mean move the air inside the car down to the lowest low...
pretty sure you know what I mean. It's hard to explain to someone who doesn't
get into this stuff like we do though)

Exactly, the rear fill is just for that rear fill. You wont need too much detail from them so no need to spend much there. As for the lows, I'm gonna have to ssay the 12 will get lower but not to sure on the specs of that box though. I'm assuming its designed to make the sub perform well though. Why not just have a ported box designed with your goals in mind instead of the JL prefab? You'll probably get better sound. Id also go with a w6 over the w3 anyday. Or even the Dayton I mentioned earlier.

Why So Cereal?
12-28-2011, 03:22 PM
You could actually keep the stock speakers back there and just amp the fronts if you really want to save some cash. Then you can spend more mmoney elsewhere.

whitedragon551
12-28-2011, 03:36 PM
I would ditch the rear fill and spend that money on deadener for the front doors. Rear fill will throw off your front sound stage unless its implemented properly. I certainly wouldnt run CDT as rear fill or anything for that matter either.

I also wouldnt spend the money on those JL Audio amps. Over priced for what you get.

What I would do is pick up a nice 5 channel amp with a dedicated sub stage or a 6 channel amp that is atleast 2 ohm stable bridged on channels 5/6. You can usually find a cheap quality 5/6 channel for the price of a good mono especially if your considering running JL Audio and at the same time save on space and wire. I would spend the saved money on Second Skin sound deadener or at Sound Deadener Showdown. I would run my front stage active with the 117 and no rear fill.



If your set on having 2 amps Id run these:

JBL GTO1004 GRAND TOURING 4-CH FULL-RANGE AMPLIFIER | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-GTO1004-GRAND-TOURING-4-CH-FULL-RANGE-AMPLIFIER-/290577003951?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item43a7bd35af)

JBL® GTO7001 GRAND TOURING SERIES MONOBLOCK CAR AMPLIFIER AMP 700W RMS GTO-7001 (0050036119214) | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-GTO7001-GRAND-TOURING-SERIES-MONOBLOCK-CAR-AMPLIFIER-AMP-700W-RMS-GTO-7001-/170743323535?pt=Car_Amplifiers&vxp=mtr&hash=item27c1185b8f)

Why So Cereal?
12-28-2011, 04:09 PM
If your set on having 2 amps Id run these:

JBL GTO1004 GRAND TOURING 4-CH FULL-RANGE AMPLIFIER | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-GTO1004-GRAND-TOURING-4-CH-FULL-RANGE-AMPLIFIER-/290577003951?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item43a7bd35af)

JBL® GTO7001 GRAND TOURING SERIES MONOBLOCK CAR AMPLIFIER AMP 700W RMS GTO-7001 (0050036119214) | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-GTO7001-GRAND-TOURING-SERIES-MONOBLOCK-CAR-AMPLIFIER-AMP-700W-RMS-GTO-7001-/170743323535?pt=Car_Amplifiers&vxp=mtr&hash=item27c1185b8f)

those or the Boston Acoustics amps would be a good choice. GT or GTA series. The GT series is stable to 1 ohm stereo, and 2 ohms bridged and fan cooled.

thevolunator
12-28-2011, 05:19 PM
on the note of the tweeters, if theyre facing straight up, theyre probably reflecting off of the windshield and sometimes this can cause them to seem "bright". Just find some tweeters you like and play around with the EQ and placement and aiming on them to tailor the sound for your liking.

Why no Boston Acoustics in the line up? :(



You will be happy to know that I just purchased the Boston Pro60SE...:celebra:
I listened to the JL's the Hybrid's, Foacal's, Memphis comps and the Boston(along with the high end Focal) sounded the best.
Then he said he could give me the Boston's for $400 and I was sold! Thanks for the help...

whitedragon551
12-28-2011, 05:22 PM
You will be happy to know that I just purchased the Boston Pro60SE...:celebra:
I listened to the JL's the Hybrid's, Foacal's, Memphis comps and the Boston(along with the high end Focal) sounded the best.
Then he said he could give me the Boston's for $400 and I was sold! Thanks for the help...

This is why you buy online and save money:

Boston Acoustics Pro60 SE Component Systems at Onlinecarstereo.com (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_20343_Boston_Acoustics_Pro60_SE.aspx?utm_source= google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison)

Why So Cereal?
12-28-2011, 05:34 PM
Meh, its only 50 bucks and if he has any issue he can take em right back there.

Congrats OP im sure you'll love them. I've never heard a bad Boston speaker.
and they LOVE power so try to have ATLEAST 125wrms on tap. They'll take more though with correct amp settings.

Have u decided what do in the rears yet?

thevolunator
12-28-2011, 06:18 PM
No, hadn't bought anything for the rear's yet...But, from talking to some people today(and reading your thoughts)
I've decided to just get a good quality(not high end) coax...and use my amp to adjust everything.(would like to get "imprint" to help that out)

As for the amp/sub suggestions...The guy at the dealer made a good point about the "stealth box"(and my worry about the sub hitting the "sweet spot)
he said that the JL has specifically designed this box for my vehicle, and said that I could even trade my current amp(XM 700/5) in on another bigger amp to run everything. Don't know if sq wise that is the direction I need to go though? The stealth box would be a very 'clean' look though. (wish I could hear one to see if the sq is what I'm looking for)

Think this site might have been the best thing I've found though...

thevolunator
12-28-2011, 06:34 PM
Here is the info on the sub/stealth box...anything stick out to you guys that I should be worried about?



http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt299/thevolunator/t401_x1_be727c44ee2c2995d4b5e391a55.jpg

SB-N-XTERR2/12W3v3

The Xterra has been a solid success for Nissan thanks to its utility, ruggedness and versatility. When considering a subwoofer upgrade, you don't want to give any of that up... you just want great bass added to the Xterra's long list of bonuses.

To accomplish this, the Stealthbox® tucks neatly into the side panel of the cargo area and sacrifices very little cargo space while also staying out of the way of the rear speaker locations and cargo cover.

Lurking inside is a single 12-inch subwoofer that packs a wallop and delivers outstanding fidelity. The subwoofer driver is protected from loose cargo by the included steel mesh grille, so you can load up your hatch without worries.

The Hard Data: Contains one 12W3v3-2 in a sealed enclosure. 500 watt power handling. Wired for 2 ohm mono. Stealthbox® installs in passenger side rear cargo area. A steel mesh grille is included to protect the subwoofer driver.

thevolunator
12-28-2011, 06:45 PM
As far as my rear's go...SQ wise, would I be better off doing a component in the back doors? So that I can dictate/tune the tweet location(as to not effect my stage)
I mean, I could surface mount the tweet on the rear door and tune it down with the xo...Have more flexibility than with a coax.
I could go with something like the Boston SE60's(only $150) for my 'rear fill'...

What'd you guys think?

Why So Cereal?
12-28-2011, 06:54 PM
No, hadn't bought anything for the rear's yet...But, from talking to some people today(and reading your thoughts)
I've decided to just get a good quality(not high end) coax...and use my amp to adjust everything.(would like to get "imprint" to help that out)

As for the amp/sub suggestions...The guy at the dealer made a good point about the "stealth box"(and my worry about the sub hitting the "sweet spot)
he said that the JL has specifically designed this box for my vehicle, and said that I could even trade my current amp(XM 700/5) in on another bigger amp to run everything. Don't know if sq wise that is the direction I need to go though? The stealth box would be a very 'clean' look though. (wish I could hear one to see if the sq is what I'm looking for)

Think this site might have been the best thing I've found though...

with the Imprint thrown into the mix, you actually might be pretty good to run the coax's in rear since you'll have something to delay them, though I havent done much research into the Imprint as a processor. Look into the JBL MS8 if ya got the moniez.

It seems to me that you really like the look of the Stealthbox over anything. Oh BTW, when the dealer says it designed for your vehicle, all that means is that it fits. I doubt it'll sound bad, but I'd be hard pressed to say youre getting the best out of the woofer, but in the end, its your money and you have to like the way it sounds. If it were me in the situation, though, I would buy a JL 12w6v2 or Dayton Reference HO online and take it to the dealer and have him build you a nice looking box for it that will get the best results from the woofer without sacrificing a nice clean look in the back of your vehicle. I can personally tell you that if youre really after SQ, that w3 is OK at best, but the w6 and Dayton are miles ahead for SQ. Boston Acoustics also makes nice subs as well. TC sounds is supposedly good for SQ too. The Dayton really gets my vote here, but go with the w6 if you feel more comfortable with JL Audio, have the money, and want it a little louder. My car is setup for SQ as well and I run the Daytons and love em to death. Also have had the w6, and I say both will be miles ahead of the w3 youre looking at getting.

Here's a link to the Dayton if you want to check it out. Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer 295-467 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-467) dont let the price fool you.

Why So Cereal?
12-28-2011, 06:56 PM
As far as my rear's go...SQ wise, would I be better off doing a component in the back doors? So that I can dictate/tune the tweet location(as to not effect my stage)
I mean, I could surface mount the tweet on the rear door and tune it down with the xo...Have more flexibility than with a coax.
I mean I could go with something like the Boston SE60's(only $150) for my 'rear fill'...

What'd you guys think?

nope dont do comps back there, waste of money IMO, unless you just want rear passengers to have a slightly better sound. Upgrading to comps in rear wont really help your front stage, and thats what SQ is all about.

thevolunator
12-28-2011, 07:23 PM
You're right...If I'm just using the rear as fill, I just need to do a coax, because if you can't hear the 'detail' of the speaker(except in the back seat) then there is no need to do anything special there. That is a good idea about just letting them build me a custom box and getting my Sub online...You think they would/could build something similar for the Dayton? Or does it need more space? Also, how much power would I need if I did upgrade to the Dayton or the W6?

thevolunator
12-28-2011, 07:53 PM
Here are the specs for my current JL Audio XD700/5 amp

5-Channel Class D System Amplifier, 75 W x 4 @ 4 Ω + 300 W x 1 @ 2 Ω - 14.4V

Is 300w @ 2ohm's enough power for either the Dayton or the w6?
Also, I found a w6 on amazon for $2fitty (looks like about half price)

And, Is the 75w @ 4ohm enough for my Boston Pro60SE's?

Why So Cereal?
12-28-2011, 09:02 PM
From your posts it seems like you're looking to save on space so I'm thinking a small sealed box. The dayton does well in a tiny sealed box while the w6 will need bigger but can still perform in a relatively small sealed.

As for power, that 75 would bbe sufficient for the comps even though they'll take more. But 300w, IMO wont do either sub justice especially sealed. But it depends on how nmuch output u like I guess. Id do atleast 600rms maybe more to either sealed. As For tthe comps, it wont matter too much with how dynamic music is, they will never see full power anyway so jus get a nice clean amp thats in your budget wwith however much power u feel comfortable givin them


Also pm pro rabbit here on the forum, he can design and build u a box suited for your needs......or ram designs

thevolunator
12-28-2011, 10:07 PM
Thanks again. I've been reading the "pinned" threads at the top and have learned alot...

Now, I kind of wish that the 300w would be enough power(pretty sure you're right though..it's prob. not)
but, I was thinking that IF it WERE enough...
I could buy the Boston GTA602 2 Ch. @ 4-ohm 60 Watts x 2 amp($150) to power my "rear's" (thinking about the Boston Acoustics SR65's for that)

THEN "bridge" the main channel to 200w@4ohm on my JL Audio amp to power my front stage...

If that makes sense...But, again that all would hinge on 300w being enough for my sub.

And, you're right. I do like the size/style of that stealth box. But, If I could get something made that's similar
I wouldn't mind if it had to be slightly bigger.


In review...lol

I would have

200 W RMS x 2 powering my Pro60's (front stage)
60 Watts x 2 powering my SR65's (Rear's)
300 W RMS x 1 powering a 10w6v2-4

Thoughts?

thevolunator
12-28-2011, 10:13 PM
Also, if I were to go down to a 10w6v2(as opposed to a 12) I 'MIGHT' be able to get away with the 300w...Here's the specs for it from the JL site.


http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt299/thevolunator/10W6v2_PC.png

Continuous Power Handling (RMS) 600 W
Recommended RMS Amplifier Power 200 - 600 W
Nominal Impedance (Znom) Dual 4 Ω


As you can see, the "optimum" area looks to be at around 350w.

Why So Cereal?
12-28-2011, 10:26 PM
Thanks again. I've been reading the "pinned" threads at the top and have learned alot...

Now, I kind of wish that the 300w would be enough power(pretty sure you're right though..it's prob. not)
but, I was thinking that IF it WERE enough...
I could buy the Boston GTA602 2 Ch. @ 4-ohm 60 Watts x 2 amp($150) to power my "rear's" (thinking about the Boston Acoustics SR65's for that)

THEN "bridge" the main channel to 200w@4ohm on my JL Audio amp to power my front stage...

If that makes sense...But, again that all would hinge on 300w being enough for my sub.

And, you're right. I do like the size/style of that stealth box. But, If I could get something made that's similar
I wouldn't mind if it had to be slightly bigger.


Also, if I were to go down to a 10w6v2(as opposed to a 12) I 'MIGHT' be able to get away with the 300w...Here's the specs for it from the JL site.


http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt299/thevolunator/10W6v2_PC.png

Continuous Power Handling (RMS) 600 W
Recommended RMS Amplifier Power 200 - 600 W
Nominal Impedance (Znom) Dual 4 Ω


As you can see, the "optimum" area looks to be at around 350w.

my main concern with the Stealthbox is that, though it may look nice, it may not give you the performance that you would like. You could probably get better results from a more "traditional" sub box (square/rectangular box built to specs for the sub). But its really a chance youre taking with the stealthbox, it could sound great to you, or you could hate. Are you willing to chance that with your money?


you could probably get away with 300wrms on the sub, IDK. But I do know that generally you lose output going sealed as opposed to ported. So while 350w ported may be sufficient output for you, 350w sealed may not be. (The reason I keep recommending sealed boxes is because youre concerned with saving space, otherwise I'd recommend a ported box.) For example, in my car (equipment in my sig), each of those 10s is rated at 600wrms and i give each roughly 375 -400wrms, ported and its just barely enough output for me in my little Scion tC to keep up with my front stage (no rears). I'd hate for you to only run 300w to the sub and not get the lows you want. It could work for you since you may not like as much bottom as I do, but I always like to look at it as its better to have too much than not enough. If your subs are too loud, you can turn em down; but, if your subs arent loud enough, you cant just go cranking the amp or you'll clip them.

Edit: and even with 300wrms, the 12 will still be louder than the 10 due to cone area advantage so keep that in mind moreso than the rms power ratings.

thevolunator
12-28-2011, 10:49 PM
That's good to know about the 12 being better...I wouldn't have thought of that. You're right too, I don't want to throw that $700 bucks away on something that isn't going to be up my preference.(I already have two 6's that I can't sell) That's why I was wondering if maybe I could have something built that emulates the stealth box, that way I'm still not losing all of my cargo space because of my sub box.

I would think that someone could build the box with that general design even if they have to make it deeper/taller to meet specs...But, I've never built one so...:)

thevolunator
12-29-2011, 01:26 AM
Another question, My JL amp is rated as 75wrms @ 4ohms and 100wrms @ 2ohms. My question is...The Boston Pro60SE comps are rated at 125wrms @ 3ohms and the Boston SR65's are rated at 75wrms @ 4ohms...Will my amp recognize and send more power to my 3ohm rated front stage comps or will it default back to 75wrms @4ohm like the rear's? Would be nice to get that extra power up front, and would still leave me 300wrms for my sub. (Saving me from buying another amp entirely)

Why So Cereal?
12-29-2011, 01:54 AM
That's good to know about the 12 being better...I wouldn't have thought of that. You're right too, I don't want to throw that $700 bucks away on something that isn't going to be up my preference.(I already have two 6's that I can't sell) That's why I was wondering if maybe I could have something built that emulates the stealth box, that way I'm still not losing all of my cargo space because of my sub box.

I would think that someone could build the box with that general design even if they have to make it deeper/taller to meet specs...But, I've never built one so...:)

maybe it could be done but Idk it'd probably be more effort and money than its worth IMO. Why not just do a traditional ported box? my aunt has an Xterra and the cargo room isnt too small. You could always just run a grille on the speaker for times u need to haul stuff. or...small sealed again....but that may require a new amp.

Why So Cereal?
12-29-2011, 01:57 AM
Another question, My JL amp is rated as 75wrms @ 4ohms and 100wrms @ 2ohms. My question is...The Boston Pro60SE comps are rated at 125wrms @ 3ohms and the Boston SR65's are rated at 75wrms @ 4ohms...Will my amp recognize and send more power to my 3ohm rated front stage comps or will it default back to 75wrms @4ohm like the rear's? Would be nice to get that extra power up front, and would still leave me 300wrms for my sub. (Saving me from buying another amp entirely)

the 3 ohm set will get more power due to less resistance IIRC, those pro's are more efficient than the Boston SRs too.

thevolunator
12-29-2011, 10:32 AM
What do you think about this amp for my sub amp?Amazon.com: MRX-M50 - Alpine Monoblock 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Amplifier: Car Electronics (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W2JTK4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A66MBWMVVRUO1)

thevolunator
12-29-2011, 10:42 AM
maybe it could be done but Idk it'd probably be more effort and money than its worth IMO. Why not just do a traditional ported box? my aunt has an Xterra and the cargo room isnt too small. You could always just run a grille on the speaker for times u need to haul stuff. or...small sealed again....but that may require a new amp.



That may be what I end up doing...I just like the "custom" look of that stealth box and I would kind of feel like I kind of "half ***ed it" by just throwing a box off the floor in there.

thevolunator
12-29-2011, 08:03 PM
Got my weekend project.:)

http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt299/thevolunator/getbidvNU4tjdiauhYsgbnCCfbid7wIR632.jpg

Why So Cereal?
12-30-2011, 10:11 AM
That may be what I end up doing...I just like the "custom" look of that stealth box and I would kind of feel like I kind of "half ***ed it" by just throwing a box off the floor in there.

i wasnt saying throw a box off the floor in there. Have a box designed to specs for the sub you choose. It may not look as custom but it'll sound better. The sub doesnt care what the box looks like but it does care about its airspace, tuning, and overall construction. Or for a little more, maybe, its possible someone could build u a box with a "custom" look to it that will still make the sub perform like it should.

Why So Cereal?
12-30-2011, 10:12 AM
What do you think about this amp for my sub amp?Amazon.com: MRX-M50 - Alpine Monoblock 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Amplifier: Car Electronics (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W2JTK4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A66MBWMVVRUO1)

I dont have any experience with lower line Alpine amps. Im pretty sure the Boston Acoustics GTA 500m is like 150ish though.

Amazon.com: Boston Acoustics Gta-500m 500 Watt Mono Channel GTA Series Car Amplifier: Car Electronics (http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Acoustics-Gta-500m-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B005D5QYWK)

thevolunator
12-30-2011, 11:40 AM
I dont have any experience with lower line Alpine amps. Im pretty sure the Boston Acoustics GTA 500m is like 150ish though.

Amazon.com: Boston Acoustics Gta-500m 500 Watt Mono Channel GTA Series Car Amplifier: Car Electronics (http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Acoustics-Gta-500m-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B005D5QYWK)


I'll check into the Boston amp a little more then...At the time of that post, I was thinking of just using that low end Alpine for my "rear fill" only. Basically, just something to power them.(to help balance out everything)


My rear speakers are located directly behind my front seats(at your feet) so they need something more I think, to balance out the "fill"....

Why So Cereal?
12-30-2011, 11:49 AM
I'll check into the Boston amp a little more then...At the time of that post, I was thinking of just using that low end Alpine for my "rear fill" only. Basically, just something to power them.(to help balance out everything)
Yeah,

you wanted to use a subwoofer amp for your rear fill? :confused: With that 5 channel you have, just amp all 4 channels and fade to front as necessary, I would think IMPRINT would handle that part for you though but IDK, never looked into it too much.

Or sell your 5 channel, get a good 4 channel for the fronts and rears and a mono amp for the sub

or sell the 5 channel, a get a 2 channel for the fronts and a sub amp

or, since the BA Pro set is 3ohms, a 2 channel up front and a 2 channel rear, reason I suggested this is so you could possibly get more power to the front comps while still being able to amp the rears as well. I was gonna say bridge your mid and high part of your 5 channel but im not sure its stable below 4 ohms bridged.

thevolunator
12-30-2011, 09:11 PM
you wanted to use a subwoofer amp for your rear fill? :confused: With that 5 channel you have, just amp all 4 channels and fade to front as necessary, I would think IMPRINT would handle that part for you though but IDK, never looked into it too much.

Or sell your 5 channel, get a good 4 channel for the fronts and rears and a mono amp for the sub

or sell the 5 channel, a get a 2 channel for the fronts and a sub amp

or, since the BA Pro set is 3ohms, a 2 channel up front and a 2 channel rear, reason I suggested this is so you could possibly get more power to the front comps while still being able to amp the rears as well. I was gonna say bridge your mid and high part of your 5 channel but im not sure its stable below 4 ohms bridged.


No, what I was thinking is...My Boston Pros are rated at like 125 or 150wrms(can't remember which) and my five channel amp will produce 75x4 and 300x1. Anyway, I was going to "bridge" the main channels to 2x200 for my front stage, THEN buy a 2x100 amp just to power the "rear fill". I would still be using the 300x1 for my sub...

Probably not going to do that now though, the guy at the dealer said that 75wrms would be enough to power them correctly...Just wanted to make sure they weren't going to be "starving" for power...

thevolunator
12-30-2011, 09:20 PM
Got my weekend project.:)

http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt299/thevolunator/getbidvNU4tjdiauhYsgbnCCfbid7wIR632.jpg



Finished up my front doors today and man what a difference...Even with the stock speakers(getting my Pro60's installed next week) still in, I could tell a major difference. Probably going to do my back doors tomorrow...

I do have a question though, I didn't seal the holes in my door or put the "acoustic egg crate" stuff behind my speakers.(I did put three layers of the dampener behind them though) Does sealing and the acoustic foam make as much impact as the dampener does??

Why So Cereal?
12-30-2011, 10:08 PM
No, what I was thinking is...My Boston Pros are rated at like 125 or 150wrms(can't remember which) and my five channel amp will produce 75x4 and 300x1. Anyway, I was going to "bridge" the main channels to 2x200 for my front stage, THEN buy a 2x100 amp just to power the "rear fill". I would still be using the 300x1 for my amp...

Probably not going to do that now though, the guy at the dealer said that 75wrms would be enough to power them correctly...Just wanted to make sure they weren't going to be "starving" for power...

Most amps aren't stable below 4 ohms bridged anyway

---------- Post added at 10:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:07 PM ----------


Finished up my front doors today and man what a difference...Even with the stock speakers(getting my Pro60's installed next week) still in, I could tell a major difference. Probably going to do my back doors tomorrow...

I do have a question though, I didn't seal the holes in my door or put the "acoustic egg crate" stuff behind my speakers.(I did put three layers of the dampener behind them though) Does sealing and the acoustic foam make as much impact as the dampener does??

Will make just as much if not more of a difference

thevolunator
12-30-2011, 10:34 PM
Most amps aren't stable below 4 ohms bridged anyway

---------- Post added at 10:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:07 PM ----------



Will make just as much if not more of a difference


Well, I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow then.:D

Do you know of an actual store(BestBuy,Wal-Mart, etc..) where I might be able to find the acoustic egg crate at?
I can get the material to fill the holes with at HomeCheepo...Right?

Why So Cereal?
12-30-2011, 11:07 PM
Ummmm...as far as I know, its ordered online. Check sounddeadenershowdown.com for closed cell foam.

As far as sealing, yea home depot, Lowes etc should be fine.

thevolunator
01-05-2012, 07:04 PM
Got my (SR65's) installed in my back doors...Correct me if I wrong here, these speaker are quieter than my stock speakers were. I'm assuming that this is because the stock speakers were 2ohm, and my new speakers are rated at 75wrms. (the stock's were rated at 45)

I'm assuming that I will get better sound out of them, once I install my amp and after the "break in" period....Right?

Why So Cereal?
01-05-2012, 09:35 PM
Got my (SR65's) installed in my back doors...Correct me if I wrong here, these speaker are quieter than my stock speakers were. I'm assuming that this is because the stock speakers were 2ohm, and my new speakers are rated at 75wrms. (the stock's were rated at 45)

I'm assuming that I will get better sound out of them, once I install my amp and after the "break in" period....Right?

could be a few things, I think sometiemes, factory speakers have seals so without a sealed door you may not be getting the full efficiency of the new drivers.
also, the ohm load is double that of your old speakers so theyre getting less power.

either way, once you amp them, it will be a day and night difference.

thevolunator
01-05-2012, 09:46 PM
That's what I was thinking(hoping) I did get two layers of deadening on the front door(one layer on the back) and I'm waiting for my 2-1/4" (pyramid shaped) acoustical foam to install behind my speakers as well. But, haven't had a chance to get the holes sealed yet. (did buy the metal flashing though) It's coming together slowly though.

thevolunator
01-05-2012, 09:49 PM
Also, been dumping all of my mp3 files and redoing my entire collection in flac....takes forever though.

Why So Cereal?
01-05-2012, 10:14 PM
Also, been dumping all of my mp3 files and redoing my entire collection in flac....takes forever though.

I thought about doing that, but the difference in my 320 mp3s and the lossless files i have wasnt big enough to justify all the work IMO. But when I upgraded my gear I did start buying more CDs from the store as opposed to crappy internet downloads. My tweeters are very revealing of a badly recorded track.

thevolunator
01-05-2012, 10:31 PM
yep, my thought exactly...What good is it to spend all of this money on our systems if the recording is trash. I have 400 albums on my laptop alone(have a TB hard drive with all of that and another 200 or so backed up) and 90% of which is now flac. Been slowly working on this for the past few months. The worse thing is all of the space that it's eats up on my laptop...It's double the memory space,(80GB of my 220GB) so if you ever decide to go all flac keep that in mind....


Edit: and trying to choose which albums go onto my 16gig iPhone is kind of freakin' hard sometimes...

Why So Cereal?
01-05-2012, 10:38 PM
yep, my thought exactly...What good is it to spend all of this money on our systems if the recording is trash. I have 400 albums on my laptop alone(have a TB hard drive with all of that and another 200 or so backed up) and 90% of which is now flac. Been slowly working on this for the past few months. The worse thing is all of the space that it's eats up on my laptop...It's double the memory space,(80GB of my 220GB) so if you ever decide to go all flac keep that in mind....


Edit: and trying to choose which albums go onto my 16gig iPhone is kind of freakin' hard sometimes...

haha, why not just 320 mp3s? less space and usually not an audible difference between the two.

thevolunator
01-05-2012, 10:46 PM
haha, why not just 320 mp3s? less space and usually not an audible difference between the two.


Probably will eventually convert them to 320...My thought was to get my entire library converted to flac and then save all of that onto my 1TB hard drive. Then condense all of that to 320 on my laptop...That way I always have the flac as a backup.

thevolunator
01-06-2012, 06:22 PM
Question...Going to install the pyramid acoustical foam in my doors this weekend. Question is, how much is enough or too much?
I mean, should I do the entire outer wall with it...or would a (let's say) 12"x12" square be what I'm looking for? Also, probably going to
make some baffles for my rear speakers(SR65's) Is MDF the best/easiest way to go for this?

thevolunator
01-09-2012, 07:15 PM
could be a few things, I think sometiemes, factory speakers have seals so without a sealed door you may not be getting the full efficiency of the new drivers.
also, the ohm load is double that of your old speakers so theyre getting less power.

either way, once you amp them, it will be a day and night difference.


You were right again, got my amp installed finally and it brought them to life...Even made my stock speakers sound great.(can't wait to get my Boston Pro60's installed in a couple weeks)

Also, hooked up my sub box with my JL 6-1/2" subs...And while they're not what I'm looking for long term, they sound A LOT better than I thought they would. Even thought about just buying 2 more of those and have two custom box's built on each side of my cargo area with (2) on each side. Just a thought...

Why So Cereal?
01-09-2012, 10:42 PM
You were right again, got my amp installed finally and it brought them to life...Even made my stock speakers sound great.(can't wait to get my Boston Pro60's installed in a couple weeks)

Also, hooked up my sub box with my JL 6-1/2" subs...And while they're not what I'm looking for long term, they sound A LOT better than I thought they would. Even thought about just buying 2 more of those and have two custom box's built on each side of my cargo area with (2) on each side. Just a thought...

:suave: on the note of the subs, if you like the way they sound and want to go that route then go for it bro. In the end youre the one who has to like it. Just be sure that the box specs remain the same as the one you have now to get that same sound that you seem to like. Or just have someone design you a box for all 4 of them.

thevolunator
01-09-2012, 10:59 PM
Yeah, after thinking about it longer...I doubt that they will sound that good without something to hit off of. They're firing down right now, and even if I were to put six of them(three on each side) back there (and while they are a tight sounding sub) I still doubt it would give me the best SQ(or have the range) I'm looking for.

Went to a different place in town to get my amp installed and talked to their "lead" installer (whose supposedly won alot of SQ competitions) and told him that I was looking at the "stealthbox" and he said that he could fiberglass a 'PORTED' custom box with a JL10w6 in it and even finish it in the cover of my choosing(carpet, vinyl, plastic, etc..) for roughly the same price. I would have to buy another amp though to power the 10w6.


SQ wise, this would give me the best sound possible...Don't you think ?

Why So Cereal?
01-09-2012, 11:09 PM
Yeah, after thinking about it longer...I doubt that they will sound that good without something to hit off of. They're firing down right now, and even if I were to put six of them(three on each side) back there (and while they are a tight sounding sub) I still doubt it would give me the best SQ(or have the range) I'm looking for.

Went to a different place in town to get my amp installed and talked to their "lead" installer (whose supposedly won alot of SQ competitions) and told him that I was looking at the "stealthbox" and he said that he could fiberglass a 'PORTED' custom box with a JL10w6 in it and even finish it in the cover of my choosing(carpet, vinyl, plastic, etc..) for roughly the same price. I would have to buy another amp though to power the 10w6.


SQ wise, this would give me the best sound possible...Don't you think ?

yupp, just like I was tellin ya earlier. Have the box designed and built to the specs of the sub and then if it can be made to look purty go for it.
I've just always looked at it in the manner that I'd rather have a less than purty box that sounds good as opposed to a smexy looking box that sounds like wet baby farts. So, if he can build you a box that will maximize the performance of that w6, look purty and its within your budget sounds like you have a weiner!

thevolunator
01-09-2012, 11:26 PM
Budget wise...It will be more doing it that way, I can get the w6 on Amazon for $289 and JL has a XD600/1 amp for $400...Then it will be another $300 to $600(depending on the finish) for the 'ported' enclosure. So, i would be looking at another $1200 to $1500 by going that route.


As opposed to $800 with buying just the 'sealed' stealthbox...

Why So Cereal?
01-09-2012, 11:32 PM
Boston acoustics Gta 500m or 800m save some cash on the amp. Those XDs run hot Too.

thevolunator
01-09-2012, 11:46 PM
Hmm, Didn't realize that the Boston Amps were that much cheaper. Are they as clean sounding as the JL's?
I assume so, never heard of a bad Boston Acoustic product..

Why So Cereal?
01-09-2012, 11:52 PM
You won't notice a difference. I've had a slash series JL amp and I still get the Boston amps all day. As long as the amp is setup correctly, it'll sound the same. I even run the ever so hated Kicker for my sub amp and it still sounds just as good :)

thevolunator
01-10-2012, 12:17 AM
You ever heard the Boston subs? (G3 or SPG) I could save money there too it looks like...Just hard for me to NOT go with JL when it comes to subs.

Why So Cereal?
01-10-2012, 12:30 AM
You ever heard the Boston subs? (G3 or SPG) I could save money there too it looks like...Just hard for me to NOT go with JL when it comes to subs.

I recently heard a G3 and it sounded smexy IMO. Didnt really get to extensively listen to it though so cant really make a fair comparison not to mention we have different ears. I'd love to get my hands on a SPG though. I will say, the JL subs do sound very nice (w6 and w7). I honestly dont think you can go wrong either way with Boston or JL Audio on subs. Dayton Audio is still a great company to look into for budget minded SQ subs and they like small boxes, which you'll probably have. SQ is amazing on them as well.

I know its pretty hard to tell the SQ of subs through a video, but look through this thread of mine. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/video-database/530526-some-vids-my-sq-system.html I have some "SQ" vids as well as some vids of the subs playing louder. That song I am playing in the bass videos hits a low note of around 24hz IIRC right when that car alarm goes off in one of the vids and I run them in a tiny ported box on only about 375-400wrms to each sub. The Dayton reference subs are definitely worth considering.

JimJ
01-10-2012, 12:34 AM
The Pro60s have a tendency to take as much power as you want to throw at them and giggle.

200W/channel isn't unheard of.

thevolunator
01-10-2012, 01:25 AM
The Pro60s have a tendency to take as much power as you want to throw at them and giggle.

200W/channel isn't unheard of.


:offwall:Wow! My pants just got tighter...lol

Can't wait to get them installed...

thevolunator
01-12-2012, 05:03 PM
Looks like I'm going with the JL-10w6 in a ported custom box(one that matches the 'stealthbox' look) and going to upgrade my amp from the current(XM700/5) to the HD900/5. The thought is, not only will I get 200 more watts(RMS) on the sub channel. But, I'll also be going from 75x4@4ohm to 100x4@4ohm.(RMS) So, I'll have more power all the way around AND the HD is a "digital amp" with supposedly better SQ...And they're going to sell it to me for $750(plus, take my other amp as a trade in as well)

So, in the long run I'm probably going to be spending $500 to $700 more than what I was really wanting too. But, SQ wise I don't think that I would be able to beat that setup...

Don't you think?

Why So Cereal?
01-12-2012, 05:17 PM
Looks like I'm going with the JL-10w6 in a ported custom box(one that matches the 'stealthbox' look) and going to upgrade my amp from the current(XM700/5) to the HD900/5. The thought is, not only will I get 200 more watts(RMS) on the sub channel. But, I'll also be going from 75x4@4ohm to 100x4@4ohm.(RMS) So, I'll have more power all the way around AND the HD is a "digital amp" with supposedly better SQ...And they're going to sell it to me for $750(plus, take my other amp as a trade in as well)

So, in the long run I'm probably going to be spending $500 to $700 more than what I was really wanting too. But, SQ wise I don't think that I would be able to beat that setup...

Don't you think?

Given its a good box design should make for some very nice SQ.
You can probably save some cash by going with a Boston or Alpine PDX amp over that JL HD amp.
Boston has a GTA 1105 (i think thats it)
and Alpine PDX 5 is a great amp. I have one on my golf cart.
But, thats not to say anything is wrong with the JL HD amp. Very nice amps. Just some suggestions to look into for saving some cash.

thevolunator
01-12-2012, 06:06 PM
Looking at those two...The Alpine PDX5 has the same output as my current JL 700/5 amp and the Boston GTA1105 while it compares power wise to the JL 900/5
it won't fit under my seat...Also, I don't HAVE to have the 900/5 amp right off the bat. I can buy my 10w6 and have the box built/installed and run it off my current amp
for the time being...Then upgrade the amp last.

Why So Cereal?
01-12-2012, 06:13 PM
That's what i'd do.
More than likely going from 75 to 100 on the comps wont make an audible difference anyway.
The sub may like the extra wattage but u may be fine with the output from your current amp on it.

thevolunator
01-12-2012, 06:51 PM
My only worry is...I'm not going to damage the sub by "under powering" it am I?
I mean it would only be like 100 to 150wrms short of the "rated" specs...

Why So Cereal?
01-12-2012, 07:22 PM
No sub in the hhistory of subs has ever been blown from too little power. That's a myth you'll hear some people say but it's completely untrue.

thevolunator
01-12-2012, 07:39 PM
That's kind of what I thought..I could see possibly damaging it by clipping something somewhere. And although I'm very cautious of clipping anything, that is one reason that I wanted to make sure I had as much good "clean" power as possible...That way I would never have a reason to turn anything up high enough to clip.

zako
01-12-2012, 09:28 PM
I haven't read through the whole thread, so bear with me if I repeat something that has already been said. I would _strongly_ disagree with the notion of replacing the 6x9 speakers with 6.5s. There may not be as many SQ 6x9 speaker sets, but they certainly exist. My vote would go for Hybrid Audio Imagine 6x9 convertible coaxial/component speaker set. Enough has been said about it, but I just want to mention that my 6.5 Imagines (running active, with each woofer amplifier channel providing >80 clean watts) put out a ridiculous amount of bass that sounds tighter and deeper than anything that I have heard in the past from a 6.5 speaker. I can only _imagine_ how the 6x9 Imagine set would sound, with the oval speaker's cone area comparable to an 8 inch midbass and 7-9mm of one way xmax. I guess these can be easily crossed at 50Hz and actually sound good. If I had 6x9 speakers in my doors, I wouldn't walk, I'd _run_ the the closest HAT dealer or order a set from 12velectronics.com (the only online dealer for HAT stuff). From the experience with the 6.5 version, the 6.5 woofers are alone worth the price, and the tweeters are a nice side effect of buying this speaker set. The only issue is that there is no tweeter level attenuation. Some people who are running these active complain about it. I don't think it's a huge problem. Put the tweeters off axis and apply EQ or run the active/bi-amp (trivial, since you only need a cap on the tweeter and the woofer can run without a low pass filter by design).

With the front speakers taking care of all bass, including lower midbass, the subwoofer could be relegated to playing the sub bass. Under this arrangement, my preference would be for a subwoofer like RE Audio SE/X12 or JBL Power series running in a sealed box (or any other subwoofer known to play effortlessly the deep bass octaves).

Wattser93
01-12-2012, 10:20 PM
You won't notice a difference. I've had a slash series JL amp and I still get the Boston amps all day. As long as the amp is setup correctly, it'll sound the same. I even run the ever so hated Kicker for my sub amp and it still sounds just as good :)

I'm not a fan of Kicker subs or speakers at all, but their amps are great IMO. Nearly always 25% or more underrated, and the newer ZX line is clean looking IMO.

Why So Cereal?
01-12-2012, 10:27 PM
That's kind of what I thought..I could see possibly damaging it by clipping something somewhere. And although I'm very cautious of clipping anything, that is one reason that I wanted to make sure I had as much good "clean" power as possible...That way I would never have a reason to turn anything up high enough to clip.

with the amps you're looking at i.e. JL, Boston, Alpine you will get your rated power and probably some extra. As long as you set those gains properly, you wont have to worry about clipping.

thevolunator
01-12-2012, 11:28 PM
I haven't read through the whole thread, so bear with me if I repeat something that has already been said. I would _strongly_ disagree with the notion of replacing the 6x9 speakers with 6.5s. There may not be as many SQ 6x9 speaker sets, but they certainly exist. My vote would go for Hybrid Audio Imagine 6x9 convertible coaxial/component speaker set. Enough has been said about it, but I just want to mention that my 6.5 Imagines (running active, with each woofer amplifier channel providing >80 clean watts) put out a ridiculous amount of bass that sounds tighter and deeper than anything that I have heard in the past from a 6.5 speaker. I can only _imagine_ how the 6x9 Imagine set would sound, with the oval speaker's cone area comparable to an 8 inch midbass and 7-9mm of one way xmax. I guess these can be easily crossed at 50Hz and actually sound good. If I had 6x9 speakers in my doors, I wouldn't walk, I'd _run_ the the closest HAT dealer or order a set from 12velectronics.com (the only online dealer for HAT stuff). From the experience with the 6.5 version, the 6.5 woofers are alone worth the price, and the tweeters are a nice side effect of buying this speaker set. The only issue is that there is no tweeter level attenuation. Some people who are running these active complain about it. I don't think it's a huge problem. Put the tweeters off axis and apply EQ or run the active/bi-amp (trivial, since you only need a cap on the tweeter and the woofer can run without a low pass filter by design).

With the front speakers taking care of all bass, including lower midbass, the subwoofer could be relegated to playing the sub bass. Under this arrangement, my preference would be for a subwoofer like RE Audio SE/X12 or JBL Power series running in a sealed box (or any other subwoofer known to play effortlessly the deep bass octaves).


In my opinion, I agree with you about losing mid-bass by giving up my 6x9's for 6.5's...I have even thought about using my JL-6w3's in my doors and making "kicks" for my Pro60 drivers up front...I think, that would be an awesome Front Stage. (and, actually may end up being what I do at the end of the build)

thevolunator
01-12-2012, 11:34 PM
with the amps you're looking at i.e. JL, Boston, Alpine you will get your rated power and probably some extra. As long as you set those gains properly, you wont have to worry about clipping.


Yeah, that's actually what I've been playing with(gains/EQ & T/A) the past couple days...I bought the 'Autosound 2000' setup cd's and there is a few RTA iPhone apps out there(I got the $10 one) So, this weekend I'll be doing more deadening and tuning.(probably should wait on the tuning until I get my Pro60's installed though:))

Why So Cereal?
01-12-2012, 11:57 PM
Yeah, that's actually what I've been playing with(gains/EQ & T/A) the past couple days...I bought the 'Autosound 2000' setup cd's and there is a few RTA iPhone apps out there(I got the $10 one) So, this weekend I'll be doing more deadening and tuning.(probably should wait on the tuning until I get my Pro60's installed though:))

you could've just gotten the JL audio RTA for free and its just as good. Still made by Studio Six

thevolunator
01-13-2012, 12:24 AM
you could've just gotten the JL audio RTA for free and its just as good. Still made by Studio Six

I have that app too...:)


What do you think about my idea to (eventually) use my JL-6's in my doors for my mid-bass and to move my Pro60 driver's into kicks...That would be a hell of a front stage. Would it not? And still use my SR65's as rear fill to go along with that 10w6 sub....I'm thinking that, that could sound ridiculous.

Why So Cereal?
01-13-2012, 12:45 AM
I have that app too...:)


What do you think about my idea to (eventually) use my JL-6's in my doors for my mid-bass and to move my Pro60 driver's into kicks...That would be a hell of a front stage. Would it not? And still use my SR65's as rear fill to go along with that 10w6 sub....I'm thinking that, that could sound ridiculous.

Well.....I could be hella optimistic and tell you that it'll be amazing! But, there are some things to think about when you go that route, not saying that it cannot be done successfully. Firstly, you want to make sure your amps have the available crossovers to do such a setup. Then, how well will those JL 6s work in the IB enclosure that is your door (given you can get them to fit). You could very well do all of the work that comes with putting a sub into your door and not get the results you wanted because the driver simply doesnt like (wasnt designed for) the enclosure it has been given. Also, generally, when one goes to set up a 3 way front stage, you generally want to have your midrange driver covering as much of the midrange/vocal frequencies as possible. This is where the main advantage of 3 way vs 2 way comes in. Now , your plan is to keep the passive xover between the mid and tweeter and usually Boston crosses their sets somewhere around 3000hz. So, there's a phase change in the middle of the vocal range; meaning that you've prety much defeated the purpose to do a 3 way front stage and your only possible advantage over a properly setup 2 way front stage may (or may not be) more midbass.

I'm not saying you can't try it, shoot, I sure did. But I always like to let people know what they're getting into before they do it. What I would do, as I'm sure you plan to do as well, is to go ahead and try out the Boston Pro Comps in properly SEALED doors. I think you'll be surprised at the midbass you get from them. I recently bought a set of the SE65 Coaxials and put them in a large sealed enclosure in my room on about 50wrms to each speaker and the midbass is strong enough that I can go downstairs and actually feel the bass on the floor right below my room. I imagine the Pro drivers will have even more midbass and you will be running more power to them, then there's cabin gain that may help you out down low. I think you'll be fine with the Pros setup correctly. Even my 5.25 pro 50s had surprising midbass. Then, after the install has been perfected, if its still not enough midbass, you look into other options. Remember, too, in a SQ setup its not as necessary to have massive midbass, as it is to make the front stage blend with the sub. This has been done with crossover points as high as 100-125hz in which case, a front sub would not be necesary as pretty much any comp set can play down that low. Some of this may be a little incoherent as I havent been to sleep before 3am in about a week or so, but hope I was able to help a little.

thevolunator
01-13-2012, 01:05 AM
Very good input! Hadn't thought about any of that...That is A LOT of work to do/try just to get some extra mid-bass. Probably, won't do all of that just for a minimal to zero gain in SQ. What I do find funny is...Almost everything that I've read on here(and the DIYMA boards) say's that "SEALING" the doors is crucial. Yet, I've talked to a couple of different people(dealers/installers) and they all have said NOT to worry about sealing them and that deadening them was enough. And, that you can't totally seal a door like a box anyway, because the door would fill up with water eventually...Also, even saying that quote: "mid-range drivers are basically designed to play in free air environments"

So, I thought that I would first deaden the crap out of everything and then see if I needed to reconsider sealing them..

Why So Cereal?
01-13-2012, 07:42 AM
Very good input! Hadn't thought about any of that...That is A LOT of work to do/try just to get some extra mid-bass. Probably, won't do all of that just for a minimal to zero gain in SQ. What I do find funny is...Almost everything that I've read on here(and the DIYMA boards) say's that "SEALING" the doors is crucial. Yet, I've talked to a couple of different people(dealers/installers) and they all have said NOT to worry about sealing them and that deadening them was enough. And, that you can't totally seal a door like a box anyway, because the door would fill up with water eventually...Also, even saying that quote: "mid-range drivers are basically designed to play in free air environments"

So, I thought that I would first deaden the crap out of everything and then see if I needed to reconsider sealing them..

Thats sounds exactly like something my local installers would say. I usually dont argue with them. I'll just nod and look as if they just taught me something new.

The thing is, a speaker creates a front and back wave as it plays. Now, if the door is left unsealed, the back wave is allowed to meet with the front and, then , you ,generally, get cancellation. Basically, you'll get less midbass and sometimes less midrange performance. You have to control that back wave to get best results and this is done by sealing the door. Ofcourse, you can't seal a door COMPLETELY but you can cover those gaping holes in them. Car audio speakers (mid-range drivers) are designed to work in sort of an IB configuration (which I've always looked at as a big 'ol leaky sealed enclosure). By sealing the doors (with something rigid), this is what you create.

Also, IIRC, deadener is used for changing the resonant frequency of the surface it is applied to, but the common misconception is that it will seal off the backwave, block outside noise, stop rattles, etc. However, it wont be effective enough to stop that back wave from interfering with the front as this is simply not its purpose. I've been down this same road of just figuring I would just deaden the doors and not worry about seal since so many people said they were useless. In the end, I ended coming right back to the original advice I had seen about sealing the doors and I could immediately tell a difference once I did it. I'm looking to go back and redo them soon here because I'd like to make sure its done right as the first time I did it was pretty quick just to see if it would make a difference. So, I'm gonna say, you MAY be able to get by with just deadening the doors, but you will not be able to get the most out of those speakers and I would think for $400, you'd want every penny's worth of performance. I sure would. :)

thevolunator
01-13-2012, 05:30 PM
Well, I think you've talked me into it....I mean, It's not like the speakers are going to sound worse because the doors are sealed, right? They are going to (at the very least) sound the same as they would in an 'unsealed' application. Beside the fact that your also improving the 'deadening' of the doors as well. I mean, if the speakers were "designed to be free air" why in the hell do they put them in enclosure's in the store? lol
So, as soon as it warms up here(currently 31F), I'm going to jump on that..(hopefully this weekend)

thevolunator
01-13-2012, 07:41 PM
Has anyone used one of these? I'm thinking about getting one($100 on Amazon) and running my 'rear fill' speakers from it, then bridging my current amp to 200wrms@2ohm for my front stage....Figured it was a cheap way to get extra power...

http://http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ktp-445

Why So Cereal?
01-13-2012, 11:10 PM
Well, I think you've talked me into it....I mean, It's not like the speakers are going to sound worse because the doors are sealed, right? They are going to (at the very least) sound the same as they would in an 'unsealed' application. Beside the fact that your also improving the 'deadening' of the doors as well. I mean, if the speakers were "designed to be free air" why in the hell do they put them in enclosure's in the store? lol
So, as soon as it warms up here(currently 31F), I'm going to jump on that..(hopefully this weekend)

As long as it's done right, it'll be noticeably better.


Has anyone used one of these? I'm thinking about getting one($100 on Amazon) and running my 'rear fill' speakers from it, then bridging my current amp to 200wrms@2ohm for my front stage....Figured it was a cheap way to get extra power...

http://http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ktp-445

I've known people who've run them, though, I'm not COMPLETELY sure you can run another 4 channel in conjunction with it, but it may be possible. I've just never really looked into them heavily. At any rate, be sure that your amp is stable down below 4 ohms bridged before you do that as not all amps are stable that way besides the Boston GT amps.

whitedragon551
01-14-2012, 06:29 AM
Has anyone used one of these? I'm thinking about getting one($100 on Amazon) and running my 'rear fill' speakers from it, then bridging my current amp to 200wrms@2ohm for my front stage....Figured it was a cheap way to get extra power...

http://http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ktp-445

Ive got one in my garage right now. While it does work its not alot. It boosts headunit power to 45 watts total. Not 45+ headunit power just so you are aware. It gives you maybe an extra 2 or 3 in terms of volume.

thevolunator
01-14-2012, 03:56 PM
Oh, I thought that it added power to the HU...You're saying it just replaces it, Right?
If that's the case, I'm better off still with going with a bigger 5 channel amp. Also, I'm not
sure if my current 700/5 amp is stable below 4ohms bridged anyway.

Why So Cereal?
01-14-2012, 08:02 PM
Oh, I thought that it added power to the HU...You're saying it just replaces it, Right?
If that's the case, I'm better off still with going with a bigger 5 channel amp. Also, I'm not
sure if my current 700/5 amp is stable below 4ohms bridged anyway.

The XD 700/5 is not stable below 4 ohms bridged or atleast its not rated down there

whitedragon551
01-14-2012, 08:07 PM
Oh, I thought that it added power to the HU...You're saying it just replaces it, Right?
If that's the case, I'm better off still with going with a bigger 5 channel amp. Also, I'm not
sure if my current 700/5 amp is stable below 4ohms bridged anyway.

It simply boosts power to 45wrms per channel.

Gary S
01-18-2012, 09:59 AM
If you are not going to upgrade the whole system including aftermarket head unit and amp(s), you might be disappointed - just changing the satellite speakers might not make a worthwhile difference. Especially if you already have a factory sub.

Why So Cereal?
01-18-2012, 11:56 AM
:facepalm:

thevolunator
01-18-2012, 09:43 PM
:facepalm:


:wow:

Why So Cereal?
01-21-2012, 08:32 PM
Think I'm gonna follow in your foot steps bro and get some BA Pro60s and run em on about 225wrms per side. :naughty:

thevolunator
01-22-2012, 08:59 PM
Nice. It'll be a couple more weeks before I get mine installed now...Started a new job and wont be paid until the 30th.

Isn't that(225wrms) too much power on them, aren't they rated for like 125wrms?
I do think that I'm going with a bigger amp now also...After setting my gains, (with volt meter)
I see now that I'm going to need more power so that I'm not clipping anything at higher volume.

Why So Cereal?
01-22-2012, 09:45 PM
Nice. It'll be a couple more weeks before I get mine installed now...Started a new job and wont be paid until the 30th.

Isn't that(225wrms) too much power on them, aren't they rated for like 125wrms?
I do think that I'm going with a bigger amp now also...After setting my gains, (with volt meter)
I see now that I'm going to need more power so that I'm not clipping anything at higher volume.

It'll be some weeks before I even get mine let alone installed lol
I think they'll take the 225wrms I've heard of them taking more and I know if my Pioneer midbasses took 125 each and even these Boston SE coaxs are taking 175wrms, I'm sure the BA Pro's should take that 225
You wont clip anything as long as the gains are set correctly. But, a little extra power wouldnt hurt. However, if you're gonna add more power, make sure its enough to actually make a sonic difference. Meaning you may have to double the power.

thevolunator
01-22-2012, 10:00 PM
It's just that after setting my gains with the meter(13.50volts @ 75wrms2ohm for the fronts and 17.75volts @ 75wrms4ohms for the rears) it seems like it should be louder. Especially my sub channel (24.49volts) it's not even a quarter of the way up. I ended up setting it(my sub channel) by ear and use my sub adjustment on my HU.

So, Unless I'm doing it wrong...

Why So Cereal?
01-22-2012, 10:15 PM
ahhh, got ya. yea I think your HU has 4v outs so yea your gain wont be too high especially if you set your gain at 3/4 your HU volume. I always set my gains at 1/2 HU volume....and not with a DMM....but thats a whole other thing. Youre saying its still not loud enough even with the volume wide open?

thevolunator
01-22-2012, 10:42 PM
ahhh, got ya. yea I think your HU has 4v outs so yea your gain wont be too high especially if you set your gain at 3/4 your HU volume. I always set my gains at 1/2 HU volume....and not with a DMM....but thats a whole other thing. Youre saying its still not loud enough even with the volume wide open?


With those settings, it sounds like a really nice "stock" system...And that's fine(for now) But, ultimately though I would like more out of it.
It's just that once you've heard a really nice SQ system...It's hard to be satisfied with what you have IMO. Especially, if you feel like your not getting the most
out of your equipment. (or at least what it's capable of)

And, at the time...I thought that 4v was very good for a HU. I know some HU's have twice that output, but they sell for $1000 too.
Also, I'm just going by the "charts" as to setting the gains...I've never actually heard this HU clip. I had a Clarion HU before this one
and it clipped at a little above half way(think it was like a 2v output) you could hear it.(especially with a bad mp3 file)

Why So Cereal?
01-22-2012, 10:54 PM
With those settings, it sounds like a really nice "stock" system...And that's fine(for now) But, ultimately though I would like more out of it.
It's just that once you've heard a really nice SQ system...It's hard to be satisfied with what you have IMO. Especially, if you feel like your not getting the most
out of your equipment. (or at least what it's capable of)

And, at the time...I thought that 4v was very good for a HU. I know some HU's have twice that output, but they sell for $1000 too.
Also, I'm just going by the "charts" as to setting the gains...I've never actually heard this HU clip. I had a Clarion HU before this one
and it clipped at a little above half way(think it was like a 2v output) you could hear it.(especially with a bad mp3 file)

the higher your HU voltage, the lower your amp gain. No need to pay for a high end HU for higher out put volts though. waste of time and money and wont improve your sound. I understand the going by the charts thing. Alot of people do that to be on the safe side. I'm sure others would disagree, but you may be able to bring your gain up a little bit since music is so much more dynamic than a test tone (assuming u used a tone to set your gains) you should be fine and when you hear distortion just back off. Music isnt recorded at 0db anyway. Most songs, well atleast in my music collection rarely ever hit that point except maybe in the very high frequencies.

But, I agree, in the end you're probably gonna want to add more power.

thevolunator
01-22-2012, 11:20 PM
Yes, I used the test tones...Got the Autosound2000 cd. After using them(test tones) what you're saying makes sense.
I may re-adjust everything now and split the difference between what the charts say that I should be at and what I had them
set at before(half way on each channel...give or take)

And, what you're saying about the HU voltage is what I remember the guy at the dealer saying at the time. I think he also said
something to the effect of "you don't want to exceed the voltage of your amp" as well.

So, I know you said that I have to at least "double the power" would the JL900/5 be enough you think? I heard it a couple weeks ago
at the dealer and it(and the new Fosgate amp) sounded really clean. But, I think that the 900/5 would only add like 25 more wrms on the
front/rear and 200 more wrms on the sub channel.

Why So Cereal?
01-22-2012, 11:26 PM
Yupp, exceed the voltage on your amp and you wont get full power from it no matter what. (or atleast thats what I gathered).

25wrms extra to the fronts more than likely wont be noticeable. Maybe, on the sub but highly doubt it on the fronts. I'd do separate amps, one for mids and highs; one for lows. A robust 4 channel and a nice mono block

thevolunator
01-23-2012, 06:46 PM
So I readjusted all of my settings today...Taking the "correct" setting and my initial settings and splitting the difference. And, it's better now. (I think)
Also, I discovered that the "MX Expander" was screwing with my EQ settings, so I bypassed that and re-calibrated it using my Autosound2000 cd and
my iPhone RTA app. Sounds much better now..

Oh, and I switched my amp setting back to the 4-channel setting(seems to have more power this way)
and dialed it in by ear. I just can't control it (the sub-channel) on the HU this way...


And, moved my Xover points to 60hrtz on the front channel, 55hrtz for the rear channel & 50hrtz for my sub channel...

Why So Cereal?
01-24-2012, 04:39 PM
So I readjusted all of my settings today...Taking the "correct" setting and my initial settings and splitting the difference. And, it's better now. (I think)
Also, I discovered that the "MX Expander" was screwing with my EQ settings, so I bypassed that and re-calibrated it using my Autosound2000 cd and
my iPhone RTA app. Sounds much better now..

Oh, and I switched my amp setting back to the 4-channel setting(seems to have more power this way)
and dialed it in by ear. I just can't control it (the sub-channel) on the HU this way...


And, moved my Xover points to 60hrtz on the front channel, 55hrtz for the rear channel & 50hrtz for my sub channel...

If you still have the subs on the sub channel, I dont see why you wouldnt be able to control them from the HU.....

thevolunator
01-24-2012, 08:09 PM
For some reason I have to switch to 6-channel on my amp for the HU to control it...Don't understand why though.

thevolunator
02-25-2012, 09:06 PM
System starting to come together...Got my Boston Pro's installed Friday(and finally got all of my doors sealed last week) I have to say, it sounds pretty freakin' good as it is now. The guy that installed the Pro's even commented how impressed he was with my JL 6w3's. (still going with the 10w6 though long term, i think)
Overall though, I'm very impressed with the Boston's...:D