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View Full Version : Best glue and caulking to use on sub box???



silveradokid
12-26-2011, 08:08 PM
So I'm nearing the end of building my first enclosure, now I just need to glue it together. I guess some of my measurement must have been off, and I had to change some of the design midway through the build, so there are some gaps. They aren't very large, greatest being 1/8" maybe(most likely smaller), but my question is, is what glue should I use to fill the gaps and glue it together. Gorrilla glue? Wood glue? And what caulking will be best? I used 3/4" mdf.

wenn_du_weinst
12-26-2011, 08:11 PM
belt sander and regular wood glue.

audiobaun
12-26-2011, 09:05 PM
I use Liquid nails, inside and out, and sand the outsides smooth then flexstone the box on the outside seals, looks good, and is waterproof when done,and durable.:D

silveradokid
12-26-2011, 09:15 PM
Well sanding the edges to help the gaps won't do any good , only will make them worse. I'm thinking liquid nails as of now, I'm not sure about gorilla glue because I feel like even though it expands, there will still be some air bubbles leaving a place for the air to escape. Can I use liquid nails to glue it together and seal all the gaps, and then use just some standard caulking on the inside? On a side note, I'm carpeting the box, since it will look the best.

tommyk90
12-26-2011, 09:17 PM
I make a paste from regular wood glue and sawdust. Mix it together and fill in the gaps.

WSG Electronics
12-26-2011, 09:23 PM
I have been building boxes for years, I currently use TITEBOND 3 Premium woodglue its about 10 bucks a bottle or 20 a gallon at lowes. You will break the wood before you break the seam. I also use GE brand 100% pure silicone sealant after the box is together and line all the seams. Its Flexible, weather resistant, 50 year sealant. They also have a sandable version of it. That cost about 4 or 5 bucks a tube at lowes. A little pricey for caulk but its well worth it and doe not take long to dry. I have NEVER in my life had a box leak or come apart using these products.

Making the paste with woodglue and sawdust is a great trick also, Just be sure to let it dry.

audiobaun
12-26-2011, 09:28 PM
Well sanding the edges to help the gaps won't do any good , only will make them worse. I'm thinking liquid nails as of now, I'm not sure about gorilla glue because I feel like even though it expands, there will still be some air bubbles leaving a place for the air to escape. Can I use liquid nails to glue it together and seal all the gaps, and then use just some standard caulking on the inside? On a side note, I'm carpeting the box, since it will look the best.
I think that will be just fine.I dont see any reason why not.Its cheap, it seals, and it works, and it can be sanded too if needed..:santa:

DonH
12-26-2011, 09:28 PM
use a rubber sealant or fiberglass OR make your own as tommyk said... on another note, why would one use an EXPANDING glue such as liquid nails and gorilla glue to fill a gap? makes no sense.

SQ Monte
12-26-2011, 09:38 PM
Like tommy, I mix in some sawdust with the glue.

Heeltoeclutch
12-26-2011, 09:49 PM
I haven't made billions of competition boxes or anything, but Titebond and Titebond 3 has worked great for me - we use 3 when we make skateboards/longboards, and they go through a lot more moisture and dirt and other types of abuse that sub boxes don't see. I had a little gappage in my first and I did the sawdust+glue thing and it worked well. As for caulk I just used generic clear silicone from wal-mart or something and it's done fine.

J31Rob
12-26-2011, 09:54 PM
I make a paste from regular wood glue and sawdust. Mix it together and fill in the gaps.
Normally this. MDF consists of a TON of glue anyway.. so the paste is uber noice.

However, my last box I used Titebond 3 & caulk used for soft/slick panel board.

Kangaroux
12-26-2011, 09:59 PM
use a rubber sealant or fiberglass OR make your own as tommyk said... on another note, why would one use an EXPANDING glue such as liquid nails and gorilla glue to fill a gap? makes no sense.

I see what you mean but if you assemble the box and just put some on the joint if there is any gaps it will expand and fill it up. If the fact that it expands messes up the box, it wasn't assembled correctly in the first place.

J31Rob
12-26-2011, 10:02 PM
use a rubber sealant or fiberglass OR make your own as tommyk said... on another note, why would one use an EXPANDING glue such as liquid nails and gorilla glue to fill a gap? makes no sense.

Liquid Nails doesn't expand. They even make a specific type for slick panel board such as MDF. Also, not everyone uses MDF to make enclosures.. so Liquid Nails (the proper type) is often used and works very well. Especially if you don't have the right saws to do everything. It's great for filling voids.

WSG Electronics
12-26-2011, 10:04 PM
MDF is actually sawdust and glue to begin with... more glue than wood...
Titebond will work on any wood, I have even used it on doorpanels plastics, and various other things that its not made for and it worked lol...

J31Rob
12-26-2011, 10:06 PM
Normally this. MDF consists of a TON of glue anyway.. so the paste is uber noice.

However, my last box I used Titebond 3 & caulk used for soft/slick panel board.


MDF is actually sawdust and glue to begin with... more glue than wood...

You hear that echo?

loljk.

..and MDF isn't even really wood. It's fiberboard. It's a chemical compound mixed with glue.

audiobaun
12-26-2011, 10:08 PM
Liquid Nails doesn't expand. They even make a specific type for slick panel board such as MDF. Also, not everyone uses MDF to make enclosures.. so Liquid Nails (the proper type) is often used and works very well. Especially if you don't have the right saws to do everything. It's great for filling voids.

As I said before?????Liquid nails..its cheap, it seals, and it works.Inside, and out.2-3 tubes, and your fingers at work, is all that is needed.Works just fine, and has for me for the last 15+yrs.:)

J31Rob
12-26-2011, 10:11 PM
As I said before?????Liquid nails..its cheap, it seals, and it works.Inside, and out.2-3 tubes, and your fingers at work, is all that is needed.Works just fine, and has for me for the last 15+yrs.:)
You've been doing this for 15+ years and your name is "audiobaun"? :facepalm:

WSG Electronics
12-26-2011, 10:17 PM
LOl yeah didnt see your post till after i hit reply...

audiobaun
12-26-2011, 10:31 PM
LOl yeah didnt see your post till after i hit reply...

Yep..Audio=car audio autobahn-=Audiobaun=me car audio, along with speed,:) I race and listen to car audio, for years now.23T roadster with 427bb with 1250 dominator trans brake 2spd powerglyde elect shift 760 lift cam oval ports heads.I leave the line at 6800rpm, and in 1/8 mile at 5.02@128mph

audiobaun
12-26-2011, 10:32 PM
You've been doing this for 15+ years and your name is "audiobaun"? :facepalm:

:sword: Up yours

J31Rob
12-26-2011, 10:40 PM
<3

jtomsic
12-26-2011, 10:41 PM
Yep..Audio=car audio autobahn-=Audiobaun=me car audio, along with speed,:) I race and listen to car audio, for years now.23T roadster with 427bb with 1250 dominator trans brake 2spd powerglyde elect shift 760 lift cam oval ports heads.I leave the line at 6800rpm, and in 1/8 mile at 5.02@128mph

pics or it never happened... :-P lets see this car broseph

WSG Electronics
12-26-2011, 10:41 PM
Two to three tubes??? how big is the box? Why you need wood, make it out of liquid nails?

oldschoolboomer
12-26-2011, 10:43 PM
How about straight cuts and titebond 3 and you're all set. If not, titebond 3 and silicone of any brand will do...

audio_guy
12-26-2011, 11:19 PM
I have used the black rubberized hot glue sticks for gaps that dont seal very well with glue alone.

J31Rob
12-26-2011, 11:21 PM
Seems excessive.

silveradokid
12-27-2011, 12:21 AM
The box is 2.0-2.5cuft, I'm not really sure I didn't calculate it to exact. The cuts are straight, I used a table saw, but I guess it just didn't come together square when I screwed it together to dry fit it. Here's a picture of the biggest gap, its in the center-left, this is the bottom of the box.
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee460/silveradoman1/IMG_0150.jpg
Here are some pics of the box:
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee460/silveradoman1/IMG_0259.jpg
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee460/silveradoman1/IMG_0253.jpg
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee460/silveradoman1/IMG_0258.jpg
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee460/silveradoman1/IMG_0254.jpg
And will liquid nails work fine? And I don't think making a paste out of sawdust and wood glue will work well to glue it together, it would work great to fill a void. I just don't see a paste with the sawdust and wood glue having great adhesive qualities, adhesive enough glue together the pieces while filling the gaps. I have liquid nails, I think I might use that since it will fill the gap well and is very strong.

audiobaun
12-27-2011, 01:11 AM
26529492
pics or it never happened... :-P lets see this car broseph Here is the car,and me getting a little air.My uncle owned it, and i had the pleasure to drive it:D

audiobaun
12-27-2011, 01:16 AM
Man get some liquid nails and get r done bro.Get it done man.Looks like you did pretty good for yourself man.It will be just fine

audiobaun
12-27-2011, 01:19 AM
Take the subs out, and seal every crack you can, inside and out, and get that carpet on there, and it will be just fine..Liquid nails will work just fine

SQ Monte
12-27-2011, 01:21 AM
Pretty nice box you got going on there

audiobaun
12-27-2011, 01:26 AM
Pretty nice box you got going on there

I think he did pretty good too

audiobaun
12-27-2011, 01:31 AM
just always remember to take in consideration for the thickness of the cutting blade, but hell,looks good to me!!! Id put it in my vehicle

silveradokid
12-27-2011, 01:34 AM
Thanks guys! I had some help from my dad though so I can't take all the credit, he's done quite a bit of wood work in his time. I pretty much have the largest enclosure I can fit under the back seat in my truck, the seat barely latches down, but it still latches down. I will be gluing it tomorrow, we bought some liquid nails at home depot earlier tonight so I guess that's what I'll be using, oh and some caulking once I glue it together, there are some uneven spots between pieces within the box that I would like to smooth out if at all possible, I also am just going to apply caulking tom make sure its 100% air tight.

If you guys want to check out my build you can do so here, http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/515849-1999-silverado-alpine-build.html.

WSG Electronics
12-27-2011, 01:40 AM
The paste from dust and glue is to fill the gaps and cracks...its not bad for a DIY box....Ive seen some rough looking stuff...although i dont see where using a table saw it didnt come out correctly. If you plan to build more you might wanna check the blades 90 degree angle to the fence and make sure everything is square...it might just beed some adjustments...below are some images of one of mine using TITEbond 3 glue with GE 100 percent pure silicone...and some paste made from glue and dust to fills the gaps, since i wanna decide to change the design on the very last piece to cut... lol

I also Router all my edges with a roundover Bit, Make my holes with a Jasper Circle jig..(well worth the 40 bucks) and use a DA sander. I also use an airstapler to put it together, which does absolutely nothing but holds it till the glue dries.

WSG Electronics
12-27-2011, 02:12 AM
Here are the rest of them...

audiobaun
12-27-2011, 02:13 AM
Thanks guys! I had some help from my dad though so I can't take all the credit, he's done quite a bit of wood work in his time. I pretty much have the largest enclosure I can fit under the back seat in my truck, the seat barely latches down, but it still latches down. I will be gluing it tomorrow, we bought some liquid nails at home depot earlier tonight so I guess that's what I'll be using, oh and some caulking once I glue it together, there are some uneven spots between pieces within the box that I would like to smooth out if at all possible, I also am just going to apply caulking tom make sure its 100% air tight.

If you guys want to check out my build you can do so here, http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/515849-1999-silverado-alpine-build.html.

NICE man, Nice.I raised my seat in my x-cab about 4in, and worked just fine for my needs at the time and had two front firing ported 10s, and sounded pretty decent at the time.Hope all ends well, and sound great as well.Like to see the box finished with the covering if you dont mind??Thanks for showing your build as well.:cool:

audiobaun
12-27-2011, 02:15 AM
Here are the rest of them...

Looks very nice man.Very nice..I like it:D

WSG Electronics
12-27-2011, 02:25 AM
LOL I would if i could, that was for a customer, he didnt want it finished, he wanted it in his car....that box is still float around town being traded and sold and bought back....most of my boxes are sold unfinished so that the consumer can see any and every little defect, I dont hide or cover up blemisheswith carpet like some do...that way later on they can put whatever finish they like....but i do finish work as well for those that request it...carpet vinyl fiberglass paint whatever....I just got on this site tonight, ill be putting up more stuff in the future...

dbakek
12-27-2011, 08:41 PM
I've used PL400 for all of mine. Heck, I've used it without screws/nails before and the boxes hold perfect. Comes in a caulk like tube, good stuff.

silveradokid
12-27-2011, 09:48 PM
Well my box is all glued up. I used liquid nails, I went over kill with the caulking but I don't think it will hurt. The outside isn't super pretty, but then again it will be getting carpeted in 2 weeks or so. If you want to see some update photos just check my build thread.