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View Full Version : Time to REALLY test your Enclosure knowledge......NEED HELP



myYotaIsLoud
09-23-2011, 10:11 PM
Lets see if anyone can offer me a concrete solution to my most recent purchase.

I drive a 1994 Toyota Pickup. Its regular cab with a bench seat. I've already removed the bracket for the jack so I could fit my 2 MTX 8's behind my seat. They are in a truck box thats 7.5" on the bottom, 3.5" on top, 16" tall and 16" deep. What I need to know is what dimensions should I build my next box to? It will be holding two MFW-12's. They require 1.9 cubic feet each to reside in a sealed box per the spec sheet. So I guess, all in all, I need to know: what dimensions, material type and thickness, and ported vs. sealed. I install car audio on the side, but have never tried to tackle the custom box build. Any and all help will be GREATLY appreciated. Hoping to have it sketched up and ready for fab within the week. Thanks

-01limited-
09-23-2011, 10:35 PM
polyfill will be your friend if you go sealed.

myYotaIsLoud
09-23-2011, 10:37 PM
polyfill? Where would i find that? Basically, I will spare no expense and cut no corners for my truck.

Mitch86
09-23-2011, 10:39 PM
I'm going to guess that its going to be tough to squeeze ~4cubes net behind the seat of a regular cab. (and still be able to sit in it :D) Contact RAM_Designs, if it can be done, he can design a box for your needs.

myYotaIsLoud
09-23-2011, 10:49 PM
Good Deal, Thanks Mitch.

akheathen
09-24-2011, 10:10 AM
blow-through

myYotaIsLoud
09-24-2011, 10:16 AM
Um, blow-through means what? Did I miss something?

akheathen
09-24-2011, 10:22 AM
means, put the enclosure in the bed, and fire the port in the cab (band-pass, of course) hate to say it, but a pair of 12's can be real hard to get done right otherwise. i have seen a box bult using the back wall as one of the sides effectively simulating a slightly larger enclosure from the flex, but still you need to be short to ride.

myYotaIsLoud
09-24-2011, 10:24 AM
agreed. Problem is I'm 6'2". Long legged at that. Would I be able to get away with a smaller enclosure if I ported the box instead of using a sealed box?

VWBobby
09-24-2011, 10:46 AM
polyfill? Where would i find that? Basically, I will spare no expense and cut no corners for my truck.

Polyfill is great for "tricking" the subs into making them run in a smaller than optimum box. If you need a 1.9cf box and you have a 1.6 or so, you can stuff it with polyfill to make it work. ;) You can buy it at fabric stores and Walmart.

Sealed boxes are smaller than the requirements for a ported box. You're better off staying sealed if you want to save space.

myYotaIsLoud
09-24-2011, 11:04 AM
Polyfill is great for "tricking" the subs into making them run in a smaller than optimum box. If you need a 1.9cf box and you have a 1.6 or so, you can stuff it with polyfill to make it work. ;) You can buy it at fabric stores and Walmart.

Sealed boxes are smaller than the requirements for a ported box. You're better off staying sealed if you want to save space.

Wow, that helped alot

akheathen
09-24-2011, 09:08 PM
another option is to do a bucket seat conversion, like me and most people i know have done with mini-trucks, even just for a better ride, not just for sub space. you sure you want to run 2-12's? imho, it's far better to let a single sub have it's space, than choke off 2

Imtjnotu
09-24-2011, 09:19 PM
Polyfill is great for "tricking" the subs into making them run in a smaller than optimum box. If you need a 1.9cf box and you have a 1.6 or so, you can stuff it with polyfill to make it work. ;) You can buy it at fabric stores and Walmart.

Sealed boxes are smaller than the requirements for a ported box. You're better off staying sealed if you want to save space.

Does not trick the subs just slows down the waves in the box

myYotaIsLoud
09-25-2011, 01:18 AM
First and foremost, that is the coolest GIF I've seen in a long time lol.

But about the polyfil. .... I have to say that Kole Audio recommended a 50%-75% insulation fill inside the box for sound dampening and increased sub performance.

And I just talked to someone at Kole about the cubic feet needed for my sub. He said that I evidently recieved a typo or outdated list. I only need 1.2 cubic feet instead of 1.9. But does that mean that my box HAS to be 1.2? Or can I go with a 1.4 or another variation. because I did find a box design that is Sealed and will fit behind the seat. It says 1.04cubic feet, but my math was closer to 1.4.

The only reason I am being so picky is because this will be my final setup for my truck as far as audio goes. When its complete I'm moving to other things on my project list. so Basically, I'm not doing anything until I'm positive it will be perfect. And now, with saying that, understand that I have to stare at these beauties without being able to use them lol. Its killing me.

But as always, I sincerely appreciate EVERY post on my thread because it gets me closer to my end goal.

Oh, btw, akheathen, I have thought about the bench to bucket conversion before, but your mention of it today brought up a good question. What would I do about brackets? and any suggestions on best buckets for the swap?(either personal choice, looks, or availability...doesn't matter)

supermaxx123
09-25-2011, 01:35 AM
Do you have a link to the sub you are using?

UnderFire
09-25-2011, 01:44 AM
I'm around 6' 1 and I have an 89 reg cab, I'm assuming you have to have your seat all the way back, I know I do, there is barely enough room to even mount an amp back there, I think a good option if you don't mind chopping up the back wall a bit would be building a toolbox into a bandpass enclosure, and then porting it into the cab.

Otherwise, a single 12 that'll handle some serious power might be the better way to go, or 2 10's.

If you're wondering how I got a 15 in my truck, there is a sleeper cab thing on the back, with a box hanging under it, definitely not chopping any holes in my truck.

BTW the best looking seats for the bucket swap are the 90-95 4runner seats IMO

myYotaIsLoud
09-25-2011, 02:01 AM
Yea, at 6'2", its tight. I am used to driving sports cars though. My seat is one click forward. so I drive with more bend in my legs then what most people like. But, it works for me. I think I may have figured out some ID's that will work. Using a wedge shaped box with a 7.5" bottom and 3.5" top(4.5" ID average for calc's), 16" tall(15" for calc's), and a 25" width(24" for calc's), I get JUST BARELY under 1 cubic foot. I can probably make it taller, but my 3.5" top would change. These are based off of the 3.4/7.5 x 16 x 12 ported 8" box thats back there now. I found a 8/4.5 x 16 x 49(all outer dims) out of .5" fiberboard that yeilds 1.04 cubic feet inside. But the cubic ft. of 1.04 is with the average displacement of a 12" sub already taken away. My sub displaces as much as your average 10"(0.5173 Qts, 0.5805 Qes, 4.7501 Qms, or 40L depending on which calculator your using. I'm probably going to keep researching but please, continued help is always welcome. So far, the people posting here have taught me as much if not more then what the sites have. Thanks

akheathen
09-27-2011, 03:52 AM
yah, i know the feeling, to get a decent recline that allows me to place my arms and such in a comfortable position in my yota, i end up with my knees bent out to the sides. while 4runner seats are ok, and a decent bolt-up and can be interior match, i just generally pick a nice seat that i like. been over 10 years, but i belive my seats are out of a subaru, or acura, with 8, or 10-way manual adjustment, and i just mix and matched tracks that would work good, and made my own mounts. the inner tracks are just bolted right through the floor,l which isn't too hard to lay down and get to both sides of the bolt... one thing that may work out similarly to polyfill, is the use as the back-wall as a part of the enclosure. you gain a little cu, plus the flex of the metal. use of dampener would be key to keep resonance down, and i'm not sure how/if you could even calculate it, but i have seen it work. i remember seeing pressed batting inserts you could buy and install on one of the walls to simulate a larger enclosure about 10 years ago. never tried them, since they wanted too much, imo. of course, i'm willing to bet there is someone on here that can chime in on experience with doing this, too, as i've only seen it once, but didn't sound too bad, aside from the rear pannel working as a large speaker to make the bass pretty loud outside the truck..