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Frito11
05-28-2011, 05:12 PM
Looking for opinions on how this design will perform from people who have tried it before. i've done a 2 wall maze ported box like this before but never with this long of a port.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/Frito_023/box1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/Frito_023/box2.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/Frito_023/box3.jpg

details are its for a 12" fosgate P2 (new one) and its specs are 1.79 cu ft internal volume (after taking displacement of driver and port got all that down.

port is tuned to 33 hz

T.I.K.
05-28-2011, 05:23 PM
you should definitely add 45's to all those corners to keep the port width constant and prevent dead spots in the ports, i'd also round over all the inside edges

Buck
05-28-2011, 05:50 PM
What are your goals with the box? What "sound" are you trying to reproduce?

benzmansl65amg
05-28-2011, 05:52 PM
transmission line fyi

Buck
05-28-2011, 05:55 PM
And move the woofer all the way to the left side of the box.

BlactimusCrime
05-28-2011, 05:59 PM
And move the woofer all the way to the left side of the box.

I agree, as is, the sub will probably unload into the port

Buck
05-28-2011, 06:00 PM
If this is too much to handle you can always hit me up!

You know, just throwing that out there...

RAM_Designs
05-28-2011, 06:02 PM
45 every port corner and round-over every inside turn in that port. Also move the sub all the way to the left to keep it as far away from he interior port opening as possible. Why not run the port down the back wall? Mounting depth?

Frito11
05-28-2011, 06:04 PM
you should definitely add 45's to all those corners to keep the port width constant and prevent dead spots in the ports, i'd also round over all the inside edges

good idea will do


What are your goals with the box? What "sound" are you trying to reproduce?

trying to get soild mid 30hz bass to 60hz mainly. the woofers currently in a cheap prefab ported box (1.8 cu ft , 40hz slot port) and it sounds very good but i think it could use more low end, i know its just a 12 but bringing the tuning freq down will help. i have modeled it in winisd and bass box pro vs the existing box and the response curves are pretty good on both pretty much identical except this one brings the peak down to the 35hz range instead of 42 hz ish.




transmission line fyi

isn't a transmission line box where the port gets larger as it get to the end of the port?


And move the woofer all the way to the left side of the box.

you think that would effect the sound positively?

Frito11
05-28-2011, 06:09 PM
45 every port corner and round-over every inside turn in that port. Also move the sub all the way to the left to keep it as far away from he interior port opening as possible. Why not run the port down the back wall? Mounting depth?

I could do that, mounting depth is not a problem, i heard/read somewhere that doing a maze like this will prevent higher frequency's from going out of the port, not sure how much truth there is to that but i figured why not try it.

i did a box for a T1 12" that had only 1 360 degree turn in the port and it sounded pretty good. i'm not sure about having 3 like i do in this design though.

RAM_Designs
05-28-2011, 06:15 PM
I'd just do a simple L port along the back wall, or U port if you need to...cuts down on port drag by having less turns.

Buck
05-28-2011, 06:26 PM
I'd just do a simple L port along the back wall, or U port if you need to...cuts down on port drag by having less turns.

Depends on what kind of music he listens to though. Just depends. Sometimes I like to use S and U ports to my advantage.

benzmansl65amg
05-28-2011, 06:43 PM
box face-off!!!!

Frito11
05-28-2011, 06:53 PM
Depends on what kind of music he listens to though. Just depends. Sometimes I like to use S and U ports to my advantage.

listen to a bit of everthing but when it comes to how my sub sounds it usually rap, dnb, etc music.

Frito11
05-28-2011, 10:11 PM
ok revised my design to have an L port. due to space constraints that means tuning freq went up to 36.5 hz vs the previous maze design having a tuning of 33hz.

i suppose if i made the port a U i could get it closer to 33hz but 36 is probably low enough esp for this sub.

also the height of the box is not shown but its 18-5/8"

i also probably need to add some braces between the back wall and the port and maybe a 45 at the back left corner

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/Frito_023/lport.jpg

what do you guys think?

here is the predicted response curve with cabin gain predicted as well

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/Frito_023/p2graph.jpg

Buck
05-28-2011, 10:13 PM
Sub/port forward won't be as loud as sub up port side or up.

I can't do this design until later, but if you know how to, do a side firing @ ~34 hz.

bubbagumper6
05-28-2011, 10:19 PM
It looks like the corner is close enough to the port that it's going to lengthen the actual port length and change the tuning...Unless that was intended

Frito11
05-28-2011, 10:38 PM
Sub/port forward won't be as loud as sub up port side or up.

I can't do this design until later, but if you know how to, do a side firing @ ~34 hz.

will do.


It looks like the corner is close enough to the port that it's going to lengthen the actual port length and change the tuning...Unless that was intended

the area between the wall and the end of the port is greater than the port but you are right it could effect the tuning but if anything it would bring it lower and that is fine in my book because its currently higher than i want anyways.

either way im back to autocad to relocate the port to the side as buck recommended and in my past experience with a previous box/sub setup that had front firing subs with a up firing port it probably will be louder that way as he says it will be

Frito11
05-28-2011, 11:05 PM
Sub/port forward won't be as loud as sub up port side or up.

I can't do this design until later, but if you know how to, do a side firing @ ~34 hz.

wait just to clarify your saying i should make the box with the sub firing up and the port also firing up or to the side correct?

if thats the case i need to adjust the box dimensions slightly and make it a little deeper as the external dim of my current box is 12.74" at the depth of the top and the woofer is 13.31" with its trim ring.

my current box for it is actually firing up as well port and sub both and its pretty loud for what it is so i'm with you

Frito11
05-29-2011, 01:27 AM
ok basic design is done, still need to round the port edges and add 45's to the port turns and round those points but otherwise good to go i think.

specs are 1.8 cu ft after deducting driver port is tuned to 34.26 hz

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/Frito_023/p2top1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/Frito_023/p2top2.jpg

kmanian
05-29-2011, 01:31 AM
45's, round overs, and scoot the sub as close to the port exit as possible

Buck
05-29-2011, 01:33 AM
I would recommend side firing. I've gotten pretty loud in pickups doing side firing.

Frito11
05-29-2011, 01:39 AM
45's, round overs, and scoot the sub as close to the port exit as possible

i intend to do the round overs and 45's just didnt feel up to modeling it atm.


I would recommend side firing. I've gotten pretty loud in pickups doing side firing.

really? idk i kind of think that up firing may be better in my truck as my entire roof is dynomatted to hell due to my previous subs i had that i told you about (reallly bad resonance hehe) the roof of my truck now acts like a sound wave reflector bouncing the waves off it back down at your head from what i could tell from the before and after when i did the dynomatting, it was a major db increase at the time with the 15's

Frito11
05-29-2011, 01:41 AM
oh yeah the other problem i see with side firing is that i would have to make the port smaller and thus have more port noise due to the fact that i will loose like 10~ inches of port length

iamamp3pimp
05-29-2011, 03:54 PM
with your original design, sidefiring would be best. perhaps make the port a little shorter, heightwise, thats why your port is so long, because the area is large.

Buck
05-29-2011, 05:01 PM
oh yeah the other problem i see with side firing is that i would have to make the port smaller and thus have more port noise due to the fact that i will loose like 10~ inches of port length

Actually it would be the opposite. Usually side firing means the port is more square shaped than rectangular because it can't be as wide. A port where the width and height are closer to the same value will have less port noise vs. the same inches^2 of a rectangular port due to the fact there is less surface area.

Frito11
05-29-2011, 06:37 PM
Actually it would be the opposite. Usually side firing means the port is more square shaped than rectangular because it can't be as wide. A port where the width and height are closer to the same value will have less port noise vs. the same inches^2 of a rectangular port due to the fact there is less surface area.

i kinda get what your saying but the same square inches is the same thing as as having the same surface area. i think you mean to say that having a bigger dimensional ratio like say 8:1 will have more noise than a smaller ratio like 3:1 or 2:1 dimensionally even though the surface area of the port is equal

i know i can get away with a smaller port if i flare it and that is what will reduce port noise on a port that is too small. i unfortunately do not have a router but a buddy of mine does so i probably will end up doing a standard 3/4" radius flare on at least the port exit no matter what

kushy_dreams
05-29-2011, 06:53 PM
What about using a 4 inch aeroport? In 1.8 cubes you'd need about 15.3inches. You could make it side firing with that. Plus you can change the tuning just by swapping in different length tubes.

Frito11
05-29-2011, 07:05 PM
that is also an option, where do i buy aeroports though?

Buck
05-29-2011, 07:26 PM
parts express or elemental designs.

RAM_Designs
05-29-2011, 08:14 PM
x2 on the aeroport. The P2 isn't a high excursion woofer, so you should be fine with a single 4" aero.

kushy_dreams
05-29-2011, 09:50 PM
Products Menu (http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html)

This is where I bought mine from:

Flare Port Tubes for Speaker Cabinets - Precision Sound Products (http://www.madisound.com/manufacturers/precision_sound/index.php)

Frito11
05-30-2011, 12:15 AM
yeah its not at 13.3mm xmax. i got my port area from bass box 6 pro. it was much higher of an area than i would have imagined for a sub of its type all by itself. back in the day i used to run single subs like this one like the cerwin vega vega series 12 with just a 4" PVC pipe from the hardware store and while they did have port noise flaring the port did solve most of that so i'm pretty sure one of these 4" aero's will do an even better job for me.

thanks guys for the info and links.

Matt Brua
05-30-2011, 07:49 AM
Make your own Aero, I flared some 2'' pvc using a 40oz bottle and heatgun takes about 2 min.