PDA

View Full Version : Help!!!!!!!!!!!



Merciless
04-22-2011, 01:27 PM
Hi, my name is Ben, and I am 16. I bought a 1999 Pontiac GTP, which has 5.25's in the kicks and 1" tweeters. I need help deciding on a component set. I have a Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine V-12 Amp (50x4 and 150x1), and a JL 10" W1 in a Stealthbox. I listen to mostly Rap, and then Hip-Hop, Rock/Metal, and a tiny bit of Softer Rock (Gavin DeGraw, etc.)

I don't think going to 6.5's is an option because I would like to keep my system and reinstall the stock when I sell the car.

I have a list of about 6-8 sets I am really considering, and a list of about 20 others that are in my price range. I will post it as soon as I can get my hands on my laptop.

Now, I have never put a system in a car before and have some questions.

1) I have heard that I shouldn't buy a set of co-axials for rear fill, and should just have front comps and the sub in the trunk. Because you have to have sufficient processing power to make rear fill sound good. Will it sound like the stock system faded all the way to the front?

2) I am a unconfessed Bass-alholic. Will the 10" JL be enough with 150w going to it? I see alot of other people's systems online with one or two 12's and 400-800w. I don't want it to tear my car apart, but in the music I listen to Bass is very important. This brings me to my next statement--

What I am looking for in the comps is something that would be able to assist my sub. Something that could reach down to ~45-50 hertz. Now, I know you can get this in a 6.5 set, but are there any 5.25 sets that could?

So bascially, in this comp set I am looking for
1) Bass
2) Sound Clarity/Quality

What I would like to spend is $150 or less. I mean I could move to 175, or maybe even 200 if it is worth it. If just having front comps and the sub would sound good, I would bridge my amp and send 100 watts to the comps.


THANKS!!!!!!!!

NoLoud4U
04-22-2011, 01:52 PM
the stealth box WILL NOT be enough. I had one and they are great for some bass but they dont "hit"

i2ain2thunder
04-22-2011, 03:11 PM
You need a few things. 1 is a much better box especially with underpowering the sub, do you think you're capable of building one? Next don't set ur components to operate down to 45-50hz they are not made for that they are mids and are made to handle mids set them to 130+ set ur sub to cover everything up to 120hz. rears typically don't matter because bass is so heavy back there, but ur not gonna have much bass with that box and amp. I'd get some tweets for the back, 4 good tweets makes for a nice sound stage.

i2ain2thunder
04-22-2011, 03:32 PM
Go to PartsXpress.com | Parts Xpress (http://www.partsxpress.com) pick out 2x5 1/4 mid woofers 2xtweeters and maybe some crossovers. the money you save should go into a box either build one or have someone on this forum make you one. I'd spend little money on the mid woofers since ur power is so low you could get away with some classic dayton mid woofers i think 18$ a piece 2 1inch tweets should run u like 24$. then u got 75$ for a better box, matterials to build one out of MDF prob cost you 40$ at your local hardware store, get some MDF, wood glue, and screws. then make something that will help ur sub kick some *** like this DECWARE's Death Box II - High Output Subwoofer (http://www.decware.com/newsite/dbk10.htm)

i2ain2thunder
04-22-2011, 03:46 PM
That box is very fast and accurate will make rock/heavy metal kick good.

smgreen20
04-22-2011, 04:48 PM
Most don't like xover points that high up (130+ Hz), I for one don't. I'll 2nd getting some tweets, mids and xovers separately. I would go with these mids though. https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_254&products_id=843 They'll play low enough for you to cross them over at 80 Hz. If you cross over to high the subs could start to reveal where they are and ideally you don't want that. The Silver Flutes leave you with a lot of flexibility in your xover points.

My 6 1/2" Silver Flutes are crossed over at ~55Hz at 12dB/Oct and could play lower if I wanted to so the 5 1/4"s would be fine at 80Hz. A friend of mine has the 5 1/4" Flutes and they're crossed over at 90Hz and they're totally happy.

ejschultz
04-22-2011, 04:57 PM
With my EQ on flat, my Pioneer TS-D1720C components in my Jeep play happily down to 31.5 Hz with a 24 dB/octave slope. My sub is crossed at 40 Hz with an 18 dB/octave slope. It blends extremely well. Saying the front speakers need to be crossoved over at 130 Hz plus is definitely incorrect.

i2ain2thunder
04-22-2011, 05:06 PM
Meh depends, I love to crank the volume....I suppose if ur gonna spend the money yeah get some good comps that can do that but lets be realistic here, the guy has a 150$ to 175$ spending limit and look at his bass. He's not gonna be happy with that box. Thats the only reason I recommended that. I guess if I had a choice I'd make a better box and tune the sub higher and get decent mids tuned higher. The other option is to get nice comps and tun em low I'm just thinking ur gonna be dissapointed in the bass. Every system is different though, I tried tuning mine to 90hz and 90hz and it sounded like **** for some reason mine sounds really nice at about 105hz and 110hz.

i2ain2thunder
04-22-2011, 07:24 PM
With my EQ on flat, my Pioneer TS-D1720C components in my Jeep play happily down to 31.5 Hz with a 24 dB/octave slope. My sub is crossed at 40 Hz with an 18 dB/octave slope. It blends extremely well. Saying the front speakers need to be crossoved over at 130 Hz plus is definitely incorrect.

That impresses me. What xover are you using I thought those pioneers just have a 12db slope. It doesn't distort when you crank it up? I don't think I could ever x my sub that low though I like SPL would loose too much bass.

ejschultz
04-22-2011, 11:41 PM
I'm running them passive but I have my HU's (9855) crossover set at 31.5 Hz for the highpass. With my HU, I can set the crossover with a 6dB/oct, 12dB/oct, 18dB/oct, or 24dB/octave slope. I was actually contemplating going active with the setup, but I traded my 4 channel amp for a HU to add to my HU collection. I'm also thinking about completely ditching my sub at this point. I can crank them pretty loud on 70 RMS. With the EQ flat, they take it and they like it. They took about 3 or 4 months of breaking in before they could do that though. You'd probably blow them if you tried it right out of the box with the stiffer suspension they're going to have.

ejschultz
04-22-2011, 11:42 PM
Oh, and crossing the sub as low as I do allows it to properly blend with the front stage. If it plays to high, you can hear it's position. With it crossed at 40 Hz, you don't even notice it.

Wingsfreak9
04-22-2011, 11:51 PM
ive got a set of 5.25 mb quart comps if ur interested.

Merciless
04-23-2011, 12:41 PM
Thanks for all the advice so far!

I bought the sub and the box for $90, and I always thought it was a really nice box because it is $600 new.


But, I want to get the comps and get the whole system installed, and then listen to it and say, hey I need more bass. Then go out, buy a mono amp and different sub/box.

So here is the monster list, enjoy :D
I highlighted the ones I really like.
Boston Acoustics S50 $85
Cadence CVL-5K $120
Diamond D151 $60
Diamond D652 $130
Infinity 5020cs $110
Infinity 5030cs $105
Infinity 50.9cs $135
JL C2-525 $145
MB Quart DSF213 $95
Kenwood P509PS $70
JBL P560C $120
Kenwood KFC-X1300P $110
Kicker KS 5.2 $135
Kicker KS 50.2 $100
MB Quart PVF213 $120
Memphis PRS5V2 $110
MTX TX5 $130
MTX TX5001 $120
Orion P5.2 $110
Orion C2.52 $110
Orion XTR52 $125
Polk 5251 $100
Rockford P152S $70
MB Quart RVF 213 $70
Morel Maximo $150

Now, I never thought about piecing a set together. So if that is the way to go....


I really, really like the Morel and Diamonds just because they are known in the higher price points. The Polk 5251 is supposed to be a firm competitor, as are the MB Quarts and Infinity's. Are Memphis's speakers as good as their subs? What about Orion or MTX?


I kinda crank my music, if that is a factor at all.

Thanks for all the input so far, keep it up!!!

:D

whitedragon551
04-23-2011, 12:48 PM
Your mids dont play bass. Thats what your sub is for. Looking for bass in a component set is going to lead you down a long road of dissatisfaction.

ejschultz
04-23-2011, 12:48 PM
Take the Pioneer TS-D1720C and TS-D1320C into consideration. The 1720s are what I'm running in my Jeep. They're the ones that I'm able to crossover down to 31.5 Hz. They're 6.75" mids though. The 1320s are the same but a 5.25" mid. I ran those before in my Jeep before going to the larger set and my buddy ran a set in his Alero for a while too. You'd be surprised at the amount of midbass the 1320s are capable of. People tend to kind of throw Pioneer to the side because their mainstream stuff (G and A series) *****. The D series speakers are really nice, especially for the price.

i2ain2thunder
04-24-2011, 01:08 PM
Theres a lot of things that fall under personal preference. I love my setup, I've always been a fan of the Sub doing all the bass work, When you have a setup like mine the subs are so powerful any kind of bass from the speakers gets pretty well unoticed. I'm more concerned with accurate tweeters. In my opinion the average person is into either 1 of 2 setups. 1 is really good mid-range and really nice blending for a very musical experience. 2 is focus on subwoofer output and accurate highs, the mids are there but if you're really into bass and pounding notes with extreme accuracy, you'll be happiest with a system thats so loud so low and so hairshiftingly loud that you probally won't be able to hear much from the mids with the subs cranked even if they are an extremely nice mid. I'm more of the second myself, I really enjoy well blended music, but theres nothing better to me than that pound and kick. The mids for me just have to be able to keep up not sound incredible bass-wise.

smgreen20
04-24-2011, 01:27 PM
Out of your two choices, I'd best fit in 1. To me there's more to music (in reality there really is) then just bass/highs. There's so much important information in the mid/midrange area that it could even change how/the way you listen/like the song. If set up properly, as I feel I'm 95% of the way there, you get that kick/impact with clean and clear sound. Everything in my set up blends perfectly, I just need to spend some time (esp w/an RTA) setting up the eq bands. With an available 197 total bands (30 per ch/2 para per ch and the 9 on the HU) of eq on tap, my ears can't take it all at once. Best to get an RTA.

i2ain2thunder
04-24-2011, 08:38 PM
You can get the best of both worlds if you have enough $ :) multiple speakers of every size! Things start to get complicated with all the wiring and extra electrical, but if you have the $ you can make an amazing system. I want to eventually have 6 mid woofers and 6 tweets for front fill and equal for the back. And 4 subs 2 12s and 2 10s I'd be a happy happy man with that setup good SPL and good SQ.

okiedokie
04-26-2011, 01:43 AM
hey Merciless
you never said what your budget is?
Yes the Morel & diamond are good, but dont rule out pioneer.
caraudio isnt just plug & play, you will have problems so it's best you learn much as you can before having everthing installed.
or learn how to install your own gear.
This forum is more of hard core hobbist vs just having some bass or just having a cool system.

Before you start buying more gear you should first think of
1-Deadener
2-Install
3-making a baffle for your mids
4-Amps
5-Headunit
6-Speakers aren't the most important as some people believe.
Yes you can peace together a good or great to amazing comp set from Partsexpress or Madisound.
most people that run raw drivers have a processor in the headnit or amps that will allow them to change slope & x-over pionts.
There is so much to caraudio, so yes maybe you should take your time & from some of these guys giving you advise on what may work or not.

Just because you paid $90 for a sub that was worth $600 doesn't always mean you got a good deal.
JL prices are very over priced for what you get.
You could of bought a Sundown Audio 8 for $139 that will pound really hard & has great SQ over that JL you bought.
Prefab boxes are ok. Even JL are good but you can make better.

I have a JL 12w6v2 that i paid around $499 new with warranty sitting in my garage just rottening.
Yes it's a really good sub,but i like Fi-RE-Sundown-DD-Dayton-Focal-SSA-Image Dynamics-Diycable-T3.

Try to learn before you waste your money.
These Forums are to help you save money & we all try to buy from companies that offer the best product for the best price.

Merciless
04-26-2011, 10:28 PM
Budget is ideally 150 or less. Could go up to 200. Bump

Merciless
04-28-2011, 05:29 PM
Anyone? Bump. I am thinking about the Polk 5251 because they are rated for 100 watts and are mote popular with more info on them

ejschultz
04-28-2011, 06:14 PM
Pioneer TS-D1320C components. I'm tellin' ya, you won't be disappointed with them. Go with the TS-D1720Cs if you think you can squeeze a 6.75" mid in the door.

okiedokie
04-28-2011, 10:34 PM
The lower end polk's aren't that good.
The Pioneer are a better buy.
Or you could try out the Massive comps.
Here is a link that you can read or ask questions more of before buying any new gear.
General Car Audio Discussion - "No question is dumb" - DIYMA.com (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion-no-question-dumb/)